Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

Parquet occupies a special place in the huge variety of floor coverings. It has a lot of positive qualities: durable and practical, beautiful and environmentally friendly. Parquet floors have been known for several centuries, but until recently their installation in an apartment was very difficult. With the development of technologies and the appearance of a cheaper but worthy analogue - glued parquet boards - it became possible to do this work quite simply, without resorting to the help of professionals. The main thing is to know how to properly lay a parquet board.

Material selection

Before giving step-by-step instructions describing DIY styling, you should get to know this material better. The main difference between this flooring from the usual parquet - manufacturing technology, due to which the price of the material becomes more affordable. Such boards are not made of solid wood, but have three layers glued together.

• The upper part is made of the most valuable types of wood, it is she who gives the product an exquisite appearance.
• In the middle made of conifers, there are elements for fixing the parquet boards to each other.
• The bottom is often plywood. Its main purpose is to reduce the influence of temperature and humidity fluctuations on the material, to give it a certain rigidity. The material of this plywood is most often a tree.

Parquet planks are classified according to the number of stripes in the top layer, the number varies from one to four.

• Plank 1-strip flooring (the most expensive) laid in a herringbone pattern is almost indistinguishable from natural parquet.
• Parquet elements with two or three stripes allow you to create very beautiful ornaments.
• Four-strip strips are made from a variety of waste materials, so their area of ​​application is limited. So, professionals do not recommend using them in unheated rooms.

Laying scheme and material calculation

Before laying the parquet board yourself, you need to decide on the installation scheme and calculate the required amount of material.

Base requirements

Do-it-yourself parquet board can be laid both on a wooden floor and on a concrete base. Installation technology requires the following conditions to be met:

• The base must be solid and perfectly level. The permissible deviation is no more than 2 mm for every 2 meters of the surface length.
• The presence of a substrate and high-quality waterproofing is imperative. This will not only help to preserve the material and increase thermal insulation. Thanks to the underlayment, the floor covering will be able to move slightly relative to the base, which will avoid damage to it due to different amounts of expansion under the influence of external conditions.

The concrete base must be checked for cracks and irregularities. Minor defects must be repaired and, if necessary, filled with a new leveling screed. Further work is possible only after it has completely hardened.

If you plan to install a parquet board on a wooden floor, you will need to conduct a thorough revision. If the condition of the coating is close to ideal, you can limit yourself to grinding it. Remediation of significant defects may require more extensive renovation works, up to a complete bulkhead of the floor.

The plank floor is poor in the relative freedom of movement of its individual elements, therefore it is recommended to lay the parquet board on plywood, which is better moisture resistant. She will give him the required integrity.

For the glueless method, nothing else is required, and when using glue, the top layer of the backing is moisture-resistant plywood, attached with dowels to the base.

Laying the topcoat

How to lay the parquet board correctly? As it is already clear, parquet can be laid in two ways: "floating" and with glue. Mounting on glue is more reliable, but elements of such a coating are much more difficult to replace if necessary. The glueless method allows without special efforts produce worn out. These methods differ only in some nuances.

Important! Before laying, it is imperative to let the material sit in the room for at least two days so that the boards adapt to the microclimate. Only after that you can proceed with the installation. The room must comply with the temperature and humidity parameters recommended by the manufacturer.

Glueless (floating) method

To visualize how to lay a parquet board with the "floating" method, you can watch a video tutorial.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

• The first row of parquet planks must be separated from the wall by a thermal gap not exceeding the width of the future plinth. It is very convenient to use special plastic inserts placed every half a meter.
• At the first row, it is necessary to carefully cut down the upper lock - it is this that the side of the board will face towards the wall.
• The first element is put into place, after which the second board is brought to it from the end. It is necessary to connect them using a special wedge lock. To do this, it is enough to gently knock on the joint with your hand or rubber hammer... This is how the entire line is assembled in stages. To complete it, it may be necessary to saw off part of the parquet plank, for which an electric jigsaw is used.
• The second row should be located with some offset relative to the first. To do this, you can use the trim remaining from the first row: its length should be at least 500 mm.

You can fasten each board of the second row in order, or you can assemble the entire row as a whole and then connect it to the first.

Parquet board has become a replacement for the well-known parquet. Much cheaper and easier to install. However, the latter is not entirely true. Yes, installation of a parquet board is easier, but this does not mean that installation will not take time and effort. It can also be screwed up here, resulting in spoiled material. The correct technology for laying parquet boards is the guarantee of a high-quality floor covering. We will analyze how to properly lay the material in the article.

Before buying a material, you need to know its advantages and disadvantages. What are the advantages of a parquet board? The board reaches two meters in length, there is no need to lay small separate boards. Previously, planks were made on the basis of two layers, but now manufacturers have begun to produce three-layer material, so it is much stronger and tougher.

All three layers are made on the basis of natural wood, which means that the material has all the advantages of wood. Absolutely environmentally friendly and safe, suitable for installation in the nursery.

The planks are fastened to each other in a locking way, like a laminate. If you compare these two materials, you can find flaws here and there. A more durable and wear-resistant laminate. But only the class starting with marking 3. If you are planning to buy a class with marking 2, then there is no difference.

The decorative properties of the parquet always remain at their best. Great appearance wood covering will delight you for a long time. Over time, the material will not lose its external data, if properly looked after.
However, when decorating the interior, parquet board will fit not to any style. Wooden floors rarely fit into modern stylistic trends, they are more suitable for classic ones.

Has a parquet board and cons. One of the biggest drawbacks is the fear of temperature changes. Like any material made of natural wood, the plank reacts to changes in air temperature: in summer, the board dries up, and in winter it swells.
Gaps may form, which will have to be disposed of. The board will not withstand heavy loads. Therefore, it is not recommended to put heavy furniture on it, so as not to damage the material. In this case, the board is afraid of cleaning with chemicals and moisture.
Of course, if you have the means to buy a particularly durable material coated with various kinds of protective compounds, then the board is quite suitable, but if your budget is limited and you do not want to spend neither time nor money on surface care, it is better to abandon the board in the benefits of laminate.
Boards, according to their type, are divided into three types: select, nature and rustic. Select is suitable for those who like perfectly flat and smooth surfaces. You will not find any defects on the board. In this case, the texture of the board is monochromatic.

Natur board is different wide choice colors. If a standard wooden pattern does not fit your interior, then you can choose this type. But you can find knots on it. Rustic is suitable for a certain interior. This type is tailored to the specific design because the board will be uneven with knots and cracks. Suitable more for decoration own home v rustic style rather than for an apartment.
There are two ways to install parquet boards: floating and glued. The latter is rarely used. This option is possible only if the board is installed directly on the concrete surface. This will significantly reduce the life of the material.

Boards are also laid on glue in rooms with high humidity... Thus, the joints are completely sealed and water will not penetrate under the material. But putting the board in the kitchen is a dubious undertaking.

Laying parquet boards with your own hands

Installation of a parquet board is not very much, but still differs from the installation of materials of this type. It has its own peculiarities, which cannot be neglected. Therefore, do not use “general” installation guides, but always follow the installation instructions for a specific material.

Purchase of material

The choice of parquet boards is not limited to color and texture. It is also important to choose the type of wood. The modern market has more than fifty different options... Moreover, the quality will also differ depending on the type of wood. Buy material from trusted sellers. It is easier to order through firms that themselves establish they have no marriage.

When choosing a color, give preference to light colors. Scratches and other defects will not be visible on such a coating. If you still want a darker board, go for a matte finish. Gloss certainly looks expensive and luxurious, but the slightest imperfections will be visible on the surface. And over time, such are formed in any case.
If you are going to install a "warm floor" system under the board, then this is quite possible. But you cannot use wood varieties that absorb moisture. You perform the installation of the system entirely at your own peril and risk. Check the board for cracks at the joints. Defects on the surface are left on purpose, but no deviations along the edge of the board are allowed. Check everything thoroughly.

Preparation of the base

Preparing the floor for a parquet board is one of the most important stages. The appearance of the cladding depends on how carefully you carry out the preparation work. Often the reason for the deformation of the flooring is precisely the improper preparation of the base.
First of all, the base must be leveled. Small deviations are allowed, not exceeding 2 mm per linear meter. If the irregularities are visible to the naked eye, then the screed will have to be poured.
If it is already there, then check its quality.

Small holes and cracks can be repaired with putty, but in case of large damage old stuff you need to delete and fill in a new one.

Be sure to check the moisture content after leveling concrete base... This can be done using a special device or the old-fashioned way: a film is glued to the tape and left for a day. If no condensation has formed, then the humidity level is normal.
If you are installing a new floor on a wooden subfloor, check the old flooring for cracks and holes. Small cracks can be covered with putty, and in large cracks a plank is placed according to the size of the hole and sealed with the same putty. Some people advise using a sealant, but it can crack afterwards.

Laying the underlay

A problem with many floor coverings is the need to install underlays. The cost of the material can reach the price cladding... At the same time, it is not profitable to use cheap analogs, because the substrate must withstand the same service life as the cladding. Before laying the substrate, it makes sense to lay a layer of waterproofing. Ordinary film is suitable for it. The sheets are stacked with an overlap of 15 cm and with an approach to the wall, and they are fastened together with adhesive tape.

The substrate acts as an additional guarantor of protection facing material... It can take over into the water if it gets on the material, hides small irregularities in the base. And most importantly, the substrate does not allow the bar to rub against the base, which increases its service life.

Alternatively, you can use expanded polystyrene from inexpensive options... The most quality material cork sheets protrude, but their cost is high. Substrate fits end-to-end, no overlaps. Covers the entire perimeter of the floor. For fixing to the base will suit double-sided tape, which is glued at the junction of two sheets. The substrate does not fit under the adhesive.

Installation of flooring

Floating method

The answer to the question of how to lay a parquet board depends on the chosen installation method. Floating installation starts from the opposite corner from the door. In this case, the planks are laid along a long wall. Before work, install wedges with a gap of 1 cm. This is necessary so that the board has a move in the event of its drying out. The slots will then be closed with plinths.

The first plank is installed with its back to the wall. The second is attached to the lock to the feather. In this case, you will hear a characteristic click - it means that the lock has clicked into place. This is how the whole row fits. The last plank usually needs to be trimmed.

The next row is linked to the previous one. Moreover, it also needs to be docked with already set bar new row. Different manufacturers make different mechanisms. Somewhere you need to first insert the strips of the previous row into the groove, and somewhere you need to dock with the board in a row. Read the instructions carefully.
Thus, the entire floor is filled. After the boards are installed, the wedges are pulled out. If you laid the film, then it is cut off and the skirting boards are placed.

Glue method

Installation is carried out on a special adhesive for a parquet board. In this case, the backing is not installed. The adhesive is applied to the substrate with a notched trowel. Spread it evenly over the floor area. The planks are then simply laid on the glue, and the excess is rubbed off. Such a floor should not be walked on until the composition is completely dry.

Sometimes the parquet board is laid on logs. The technology is completely identical to laying a conventional wooden floor. But this option is only suitable for boards with a thickness of at least 20 mm.

But since parquet is not the most durable material, this method is rarely used.

Basic methods of laying parquet boards

The parquet board is laid either by the floating floor method, or by the method of rigidly fastening the board to the base.

1. Floating floor method consists in connecting parquet boards to each other without fixing them to the base of the floor. The boards are assembled into a single layer, which lies freely on the substrate - a special compensating material located between the base and the parquet floor. This method is the most common, but like any other method it has its own strengths and weaknesses.

Main pluses:

high speed of the assembly process - laying a 30 m2 board takes no more than one day;

minimization of costs - the cost of the finished floor consists only of the cost of the board, substrate and parquet work;

lower requirements for the professionalism of the stacker - the board can be laid even on your own;

the possibility of reusing the board - the glueless connection allows you to partially or completely disassemble the parquet floor and put it again.

The main cons:

insufficient reliability - the mobility of the parquet layer over time can lead to deformation of the tool joint and violation of the integrity of the structure;

when restoring parquet, it will be almost impossible to polish its surface with high quality. The lack of rigid attachment to the base will not allow it to be done evenly over the entire area;

possible discomfort during operation - movements of the floating floor in a vertical plane under short-term loads lead to the sound of steps characteristic of the floating floor and, over time, to the appearance of a squeak.

2. Method of rigid attachment to the base means gluing each parquet board to a specially prepared subfloor. For drying time adhesive composition the boards are additionally fixed with parquet nails or staples to enhance the strength of the entire structure. This method also has its advantages and disadvantages.

Main pluses:

high structural reliability - the glued structure of the "parquet pie" will add additional reliability and durability to the floor;

good repairability - the structural integrity of the parquet floor will make it possible to qualitatively repair its surface;

high level comfort - the appearance of a squeak or loud sound steps when walking on the floor are almost completely excluded.

The main cons:

high requirements for the professionalism of the installer - the installation of a parquet board by non-professionals will significantly increase the risk of a failure;

higher cost - you will need to purchase Additional materials and pay for the services of professional parquet flooring;

time-consuming - layer-by-layer installation technology will require much more time than floating floor assembly;

the thickness of the "parquet pie" - an additional layer of plywood will increase the height of the parquet floor.

Preparatory stage of work

Before proceeding with the main stage of work, a number of important preparatory activities should be carried out.

1. Preparation of the base

Requirements for the substrate for floating boards. Old wooden, tile or stone floors, concrete or self-leveling mixtures, etc. can be used as a base for a parquet board. Textile coverings (carpet, linoleum, carpet) are not suitable as base material. Regardless of the type of substrate used, it must be absolutely flat, dry, strong and clean. The evenness of the base is checked over the entire area of ​​the upcoming installation, using a rule of at least 2 meters in length. The clearance between the base and the rule should not exceed 2-3 mm over a length of 2000 mm. If necessary, the base should be leveled or sanded according to the specified requirements. The moisture content in a concrete or sand-cement base should not exceed 2%. Use underfloor heating with extreme caution. The heating temperature of the base surface should never exceed +27 ° C. Fluctuations in floor temperature during the day should remain within 5 ° C. It is not recommended to install parquet boards made of wood species that are especially sensitive to changes in humidity and temperature, such as beech, maple, olive or wenge, on heated floors.

Requirements for the base for laying the board by means of rigid fastening. As with a floating floor, the base for rigidly fixing the parquet board must be dry, level, clean and solid. In addition, it should be as suitable as possible for full surface adhesion of parquet and be able to reliably hold nails or screws inside itself. The ideal base will be moisture-resistant plywood, comparable in thickness to a parquet board. Plywood, in turn, must also be securely attached to a wood or concrete base using glue and self-tapping screws. The surface of the plywood must be sanded, and the plywood itself must be laid in compliance with a 5 mm technological gap between the sheets. Attention! The use of underfloor heating systems for such a base is unacceptable.

2. Laying scheme

Before starting work, you need to decide on the choice laying directions parquet boards in every room. Usually the board is laid in the direction of the falling into the room. daylight... In elongated rooms, it is recommended to lay the parquet board in longitudinal direction(material waste will be 3-5%). In rooms of complex geometric shapes, you can lay the board diagonally (material waste will be 7-10%). If the base is an old wooden floor, the parquet should be laid across the planks of that floor. Rooms with different laying directions must be separated by expansion joints, which are then closed with overhead thresholds.

3. Preparation of materials and tools for work

The minimum set of tools. To install parquet boards, you will need the following tools: a saw with a thin blade, a hammer, a sharp knife, a scribe square, a drill, a chisel, a tape measure, a pencil, a wooden or plastic fender (at least 30 cm long with straight edges), wooden wedges, a spatula, etc. mounting foot.

Preparation of boards and related materials for work. Before starting directly to work, prepare the parquet board for laying. It is recommended to keep unopened packages with a parquet board in the room in which they are to be laid for at least 3-5 days to better adapt the board to the room's microclimate. Parquet packs should be opened only in the course of work. Before laying the boards, make sure they are free from defects. If a damaged board is found, it can be replaced with a flawless board by contacting the seller, or used at the beginning or at the end of a row during the installation process. The room in which the installation will be carried out must be well lit and have optimal temperature (18-24 ° C) and air humidity (40-60%). Do not forget to prepare everything for work: the backing and, if necessary, glue, plywood, hardware, rags to remove excess glue.

Important points to consider when floating parquet flooring

Before starting work, be sure to familiarize yourself with the installation manual and the operating rules of the parquet board drawn up by its manufacturer. Below are only general recommendations for laying parquet boards, as well as listed typical mistakes, which are performed by inexperienced craftsmen during installation work.

1. Brief step-by-step instructions for floating installation

First of all, you need to measure the width of the room and calculate how many rows of boards you need. If the width of the last row is less than 40 mm, cut the boards of the first row with a saw, reducing their width.

Spread the underlay on the base of the floor, if necessary, fasten adjacent sheets of material with adhesive tape so that they do not bend during installation.

Start laying from left to right (fig. 1), from the solid wall of the room, placing the first plank with a longitudinal spike against the wall. The distance of 7-10 mm between the boards and the wall must be adjusted with wedges.

Set the next board with the short side to the previous board. Connect the boards to each other with a tenon into a groove (Fig. 2). Continue styling in this manner to the end of the first row.

Use a saw to cut last board row to size, taking into account the expansion joint, and lay it.

Get started next row(fig. 5) from a piece cut from the last laid board. Neighboring boards should overlap each other by at least 30-50 cm (Fig. 3). For a tight connection, it is necessary to lightly knock adjacent boards to each other with a hammer and a hammer (fig. 8). Attention! Do not use board trimmings as headers. Continue assembling the parquet board until you reach the last row.

The last row. Measure the width of the last row at several points (taking into account the expansion joint), mark the trim line and cut the boards to the appropriate size. Lay the planks down and place them firmly in place, for example using the mounting foot. Place a protective pad between the wall and the mounting foot to avoid damaging the wall. Install the spacer wedges.

Even after studying the instructions for laying parquet boards, many make typical mistakes and miscalculations, namely:

laying a parquet board on a poorly prepared base;

spend assembly work in a room with inadequate temperature and humidity conditions;

do not suit the technological seam at the border of the board with other floor coverings and when approaching vertical obstacles (walls, columns, built-in furniture);

use in the installation of trimming boards smaller than permissible sizes;

leave the distance between the end joints of the boards in adjacent rows less than 30 cm;

loosely connect the docking unit (thorn-groove) of the board.

Important points to consider when laying parquet boards by rigid attachment to the base

1. Brief step-by-step installation instructions with gluing to the base

Once again, make sure of the readiness and quality of the base, materials and tools for laying the board in this way.

Carry out the assembly of the parquet boards in the same order as for the floating assembly of the boards, first applying a layer of glue to the base or back of the board.

Press each glued board firmly to the base using nails or a heavy weight. Do not remove the load until the moment completely dry glue.

Avoid spilling adhesives on oiled or varnished surfaces. Remove excess glue protruding onto the surface immediately with a damp cloth, preventing them from drying out.

Do not subject the floor to heavy loads during the first few hours after installation until the adhesive is completely dry.

2. The main mistakes during installation work

The method of rigid attachment to the base requires much more experience in carrying out parquet work. But even professional parquet flooring specialists sometimes make mistakes:

do not clean the base from dust and dirt, which leads to a deterioration in the quality of gluing;

use low-quality, improperly prepared or unsuitable glue in terms of properties;

do not control the consumption of glue;

not tightly press the boards to the base, leaving "air pockets" between them;

do not remove the remnants of glue from the surface of the board in time.

Summary

At the beginning of our article, we asked ourselves the question: what you need to know and be able to do to get a beautiful, reliable and durable floor from a parquet board. It's time to take stock.

Laying a parquet board is a laborious and demanding process that requires special knowledge and professional skills. Observance of the following rules will help to achieve success in this difficult business.

Choose a suitable technology for laying parquet boards.

Purchase the quality materials you need for styling.

Prepare the base correctly.

Determine the direction of laying.

Start laying the parquet board only after finishing all wet work.

Entrust the execution of all of the above points to professionals.

Self-laying of parquet boards is quite acceptable if you strictly follow the algorithm of actions according to the selected type of installation, choose the right materials and fasteners, and take time to prepare the surface. What methods of mounting the board exist and what are the features of each of them? More on this below.

Armed with simple knowledge, almost everyone can lay a parquet board on their own

The prototype of the modern parquet board appeared on the market in 1941, when the Swedish company "Gustav Chers" found a way to replace the expensive block parquet with an almost equal analogue at a budget price.

The first board consisted of two layers. The presence of a number of shortcomings did not allow the authors of the product to modernize it in the near future. But five years later, another Swedish manufacturer, Tarkett, launched the world's first three-layer parquet flooring on the market. Today the material is presented practically unchanged and is in great demand among consumers.

Each layer of parquet board is designed for specific purposes, which together makes this material durable and wear-resistant

The production of parquet boards with an oil or varnish coating opens up the opportunity for people with an average income to afford finishing the floor. natural wood within budget. It is noteworthy that you can lay a parquet board with your own hands, quickly and without breaking technology. During operation, such a floor is easy to repair, replacing individual sections.

The material is presented in a wide range in the most different colors and shades, with a variety of textures and parameters.

Design features of the board: what does it consist of?

The new generation parquet board is a practical three-layer board made of natural tree species with a length of 2000 to 2600 mm, a thickness of 13 to 15 mm and a width of 139 to 210 mm. The parameters vary depending on the manufacturer. For the finishing layer, varnish or oil mixtures are used.

The structure of the board is the bottom layer, which plays the role of a stabilizer, the middle and so-called working layer is the top layer. Each of them plays a role.

The lower one is made of spruce veneer, usually 2 to 4 mm thick, designed to stabilize the panels against deformation. The middle layer with a thickness of up to 8 mm is made of pine planks with a width of up to 30 mm, laid out along the width of the board.

The front top layer is lamellas made of practical expensive wood with a thickness of up to 5 mm, laid along the length of the board, fixed to the surface of the middle layer with glue. It is the top layer that is responsible for the appearance of the board, recreating the structure of a tree with a certain pattern on the surface.

The working layer must be sanded and additionally treated with oil or varnish mixtures. Then, in the process of use, the parquet board can be sanded again at least three times with the renewal of the varnish or oil coating.

Parquet board is much easier and faster to install than conventional parquet due to its structural features

The fibers of the wood of the layers bonded to each other are located perpendicular to each other. This mounting option allows you to prevent deformation of the floor under the influence of temperature fluctuations and changes in humidity.

It is not difficult to assemble the parquet on the basis of the parquet board on your own, since the material is additionally equipped with a thorn-groove locking system. Top layer strips - lamellas, depending on the type of product, may have different variants location.

What styling options do they use?

Before proceeding with the preparation of the installation, you need to decide what the laying technology will be, taking into account the type of base, the characteristics of the material (structure and parameters). There are three options for fixing the dies:

• on glue;
• mechanically;
• "Floating" method.

Each option has its own characteristics. The so-called "floating" method with the "tongue-and-groove" system is considered the most common. Laminate is also mounted in a similar way. It will be relevant only in cases where the plate thickness does not exceed 14 mm.

The main advantage of this mounting option is that the board after installation will not need additional processing and can be used immediately after drying the varnish or oil mixture on the floor surface. In addition, laying a parquet board in this way is easy and quite possible even for people with no experience.

Option of laying parquet boards on glue on a concrete base

So-called glue method implies fastening the coating to glue with the accompanying gluing of the boards to each other. This option is convenient to use when the dies are more than 14 mm thick. Its downside is the laboriousness of the work and the cost of high-quality glue.

The mechanical version of fastening involves the use of self-tapping screws. Fasteners are driven into the groove at a certain angle. This installation option is appropriate when using boards with a thickness of 20 mm or more with a rough base made of wood or logs.

How to properly prepare the base?

You need to understand that the step-by-step instructions for installing a parquet board will differ depending on the type of subfloor. Preparation of the floor for the installation of a wooden covering includes:

• recovery;
• adjustment;
• cleaning.

All types of work - important stage installation of parquet boards, therefore, should be carried out with the utmost responsibility.

Even such simple operations as regular floor cleaning should not be neglected; this can affect the evenness and durability of the parquet flooring

How to prepare a wooden floor?

What will become the technology for preparing a wooden floor depends on its condition. If the base is relatively new, practically without defects in the form of height differences, boards with mold or fungus, the restoration stage is skipped. The old floor will need to be repaired with the replacement of damaged areas if necessary.

But you can't do without adjusting the base. The deflections of the boards will require strengthening, knots - grinding, cracks - sealing. An important point is to check the degree of curvature of the surface. To achieve perfect flat surface you can process the floor with scraping equipment or choose the option with putty. An obligatory step is to check the construction of the lag, which implies the dismantling of the boards in one of the zones to analyze the condition of the subfloor.

Preparing a wood floor may take longer than laying the parquet board itself, but it is imperative.

Concrete base - preparation features

If self-laying is planned on a concrete base, then the preparation process will not be as difficult and time-consuming as in the case of a wooden floor.

First of all, a visual assessment of the surface is required. At this stage, cracks, bumps, potholes and areas of fragile crumbling concrete are identified. Even small defects must be repaired, for example, using self-leveling compounds. Before processing, the surface is primed, or, as an option, the old coating is dismantled, pouring in a new, even and strong one.

Quick adjustments of small areas of the floor can be done with improvised means.

What you need to know about wood floor underlays?

Regardless of the type of installation and type of substrate, lay the parquet board correctly on the underlay. The material between the finishing and subfloor fulfills the following functions:

• smooths out small irregularities;
• increases the level of warmth and sound insulation properties;
• evenly distributes the load during the use of the floor;
• prevents moisture contact with the finished wood coating;
• prolongs the life of the floor.

Most often, a polyethylene foam backing is used; duplex is also popular, cork material, foil backing and polystyrene layer.

It is better to spend a little more time and money on installing a hardwood floor underlayment than regretting a possible unsuccessful result in the future.

How to fix the board with glue: instructions

It should be noted that laying a parquet board is not easy. The method is one of the most labor-consuming, involving serious costs for fastening materials. Most often, this installation option is chosen when it is necessary to arrange a floor in large-scale premises. However, in apartments and private houses, it is also allowed to glue the parquet board to the surface, not forgetting that the adhesive mixtures quickly set and it will not be so easy to fix the flaws in the process.

High quality and correct styling on glue means fixing the dies directly to the base. Glue is applied to a screed made of concrete, plywood or a plaster version of the subfloor. The substrate must be prepared - even and clean. Lay the board according to the following algorithm:

1. The first row of dies is laid out in the order in which they will lie, after which glue is applied to the subfloor, taking into account the area occupied by the first row.
2. The first strip is mounted with a gap from the wall (at least 6 mm).
3. The second board is attached to the first using a special tamping hammer. It is necessary to fix the floor elements together quickly, given that the glue dries quickly and does not leave time for making adjustments.
4. The last board in the row is trimmed if necessary.
5. Lay the remaining rows of boards.
6. The last row is also trimmed if necessary.

As a rule, one- or two-component adhesive is used for installation. water based, which provides the desired level of fixation of the material on the surface of the base.

Putting the parquet board on the glue - the right decision for any room

How to install parquet flooring using the "floating" method: steps

The simplest is do-it-yourself floating laying. The work does not take much time, is carried out dry and does not require additional elements fastening. You can start installing the floor immediately after installing the underlay. And here again, there are two styling options:

• on glue;
• via lock system.

In the first case, in addition to the ready-made “thorn-groove” joints, glue is applied to the ends of the boards for additional fixation to each other. Laying on a sub-floor will look like this:

• the boards are placed with the ridge side towards the wall, moving from the left corner of the room;
• the second board is inserted into the lock until a characteristic click and pre-treatment of the end parts with glue;
• if necessary, the boards of the last row and at the threshold are trimmed.

To achieve the most tight connection and reliability of the "floating" floor, the boards are knocked together with a special hammer.

Laying in a "floating" way in certain cases also takes place, especially since it is simpler and faster than others

Installation of parquet boards on logs - how is it correct?

In order to properly lay the board on the joists, you need to have minimal experience with parquet materials, since this method is rather complicated in comparison with the ones described above. The material is mounted on logs according to the following algorithm:

1. They check the moisture level of the lags, eliminate possible defects.
2. The logs are covered with a plywood backing. This step is skipped only if the parquet board has a sufficient level of thickness. The step between the lags is small.
3. Parquet strips are fixed with glue or with a locking system on a backing layer.

The finished floor can be used almost immediately after installation.

If the house already has a base from the log, you do not need to disassemble it, you can simply eliminate the defects, it is possible to strengthen and start laying the parquet floor

Parquet board and underfloor heating system - is it possible?

Despite the high level of heat and sound insulation properties, the base for a parquet board can be arranged according to the principle of "warm floors". Additional thermal insulation will not hurt, especially since the material is quite harmoniously combined with the underfloor heating structure.

Only possible variant underfloor heating for installation of parquet boards - water-based. Electrical heating systems are excluded, as the increased temperature in the floor area will lead to cracking as the boards of the interlock system are used.

The laying of the material begins on the disconnected system, which has cooled down to room temperature. After installing the wooden floor, it is connected no earlier than a week later, gradually increasing the temperature. It is important that the temperature over the entire surface of the floor is the same - this will prevent deformation of the coating.

Water-based floor heating option for parquet board

The finishing part of the installation of the floor from the parquet board will be the installation of skirting boards and thresholds. The threshold is necessary to mask the transition between rooms, in addition, it will allow, regardless of which installation methods were chosen, to improve the aesthetic appearance of the room, protect the joints from dust and dirt, extend the operational life of the floor, and form a complete picture of the interior.

The threshold can be made of wood, laminate, metal, plastic and even cork.

To avoid damage to the parquet board, use only the recommended equipment.

In conclusion, a few useful tips... Considering that the material will have to be cut, it does not hurt to know how to cut the parquet board so as not to violate its integrity. The ideal option is a jigsaw. The tool will allow you to cut the board quickly and efficiently.

In order for the seams on the finished wooden floor to be less conspicuous, they should be placed parallel to the light falling from the window. It is possible to lay a parquet board not only on concrete or on plank floors, but also for non-standard base options - linoleum, carpet or tiles. In such cases, the substrate is not used, since the subfloor already has the necessary level of heat and sound insulation.

The parquet board has been popular at all times. And today's fashion does not pass by her side. Moreover, if you do the installation of a parquet board with your own hands, you can significantly save on repairs. Let's try to understand this issue in more detail.

Rules and subtleties

The first copies of this building material were presented to the world in the early 40s of the last century. Small company from Sweden set itself the task of producing an equivalent analogue to expensive parquet. The second task was the desire to significantly speed up the process of laying the floor, since it was necessary to sweat a lot with a small parquet.

The presented board consisted of two layers and did not receive wide application... The prototype of the modern coating appeared on the construction markets eight years later. And its main difference from its predecessor was the appearance of another layer.

Today, the dimensions of the parquet board differ depending on the manufacturer. Its length at its minimum size is equal to two meters, at its maximum - 2.6 m. The width starts at 13.9 cm and ends at 21 cm. The average thickness is 14 mm.

A three-layer board consists of a stabilizing layer, a base and a top layer. The bottom layer protects the product from the concrete base. It is made of spruce veneer. Additionally, it prevents the board from deforming.

The central layer is made from pine. Special strips are laid out across the entire width of the product. And the top layer is directly responsible for the drawing. Depending on the price, it can be expensive or less valuable tree... These include oak, maple and alder. V African countries use cocobolo and mahogany. The lamellas are fixed to the board with glue.

The fibers of the base layer are not located parallel, but perpendicular to each other. Thanks to this, a good fixation is achieved and the building material does not deform.

The base can be tinted or bleached to give certain shades. Heat treatment and brushing are also carried out.

Upper layer may consist of polyurethane, oil or wax. Some manufacturers additionally cover alkyd varnish... Since the front layer is sanded and varnished, this building material becomes wear-resistant, moisture-resistant and serves long term... The main thing is to properly lay it.

It is very important to pay attention to what exactly the parquet board will be laid on. The floor should be leveled, solid, without chips and depressions. Only a minimal drop is allowed, otherwise the board will not hold.

There is no need to tempt fate and lay the parquet board in rooms with high humidity - bathrooms, kitchens, swimming pools. Otherwise, the laid floor will quickly deteriorate.

After transporting the building material, it is necessary to allow it to get used to the temperature and humidity of the room. Usually, specialists wait about two days, after which they begin installation. In this case, the temperature in the room should be higher or equal to 17 degrees, and the humidity should be moderate.

Like laminate flooring, the parquet board is laid along the sun's rays, thus concealing the seams and minor defects... Don't forget about the backing. It acts as a noise-canceling material.

Tools and fixtures

You should start laying the parquet board only after measuring the humidity in the room. Its indicators should not exceed sixty percent. A device called a hygrometer helps to take measurements.

A set of tools for installing a parquet board:

• Jigsaw... For household use a regular jigsaw made in South Korea, Japan, countries European Union or in the United States of America. V hardware store you can find good specimens domestic producers... The main thing is that the power of the device is at least 550 watts.
• Hammer or mallet... It is not necessary that this hand tool was from a renowned manufacturer, for household needs anyone that will be at hand will do.
• Roulette and square... Suitable for measuring work.
• Pencil... You can use a construction one, you can use a regular one.
• Mounting block... With this device, you can reduce the load on the interlocks and on the parquet board itself. Cracks and chips are excluded in this case.

• Wedges... They are used as delimiters between the wall, door and parquet board. Remember that it is unacceptable to lay building materials without limiters, otherwise, at the time of temperature and humidity changes, the board may fail.
• Cutters and staples... Required to secure the last row.
• Hacksaw... A wood saw may be required when trimming the last planks.
• Puncher... With its help, holes are drilled for docking at the location of the heating system. The first holes are made with this tool, and the subsequent work is done with a jigsaw.
• Miter box... Will irreplaceable assistant when installing the skirting board.
• Sealant and a notched trowel.

Types and methods

The floating flooring method is the most popular all over the world. Of the restrictions, only the size of the room can be called - it should not be more than 60 square meters. m. In this case, the base must be leveled, and the parquet board must have either a lock connection, or an ultralock, or a combilok.

The second method of laying parquet boards is with polyurethane glue. With it, the concrete base must be leveled, the surface must be dried and dry. The moisture content of the screed should not exceed three percent. Special sheets of plywood are laid on the screed, which are subsequently sanded.

The glue is applied to the surface using a spatula, the parquet board is tamped with a bar to improve the effect. The glue dries about 24 hours. But remember that some manufacturers advise using their own adhesive mixtures, so it is best to familiarize yourself with the manufacturer's recommendations in advance.

In some cases, experts resort to a screwdriver and self-tapping screws. If you fix the board with self-tapping screws at a certain angle, then it will reliably adhere to the base... This method is known among stackers as mechanical.

Methods for fixing the board were considered above, now it is worth familiarizing yourself with the methods of laying it.

It is easiest to lay a parquet board either along or across the room. This method is often chosen, since installation does not require certain skills and experience. If you lay the parquet board along - along the length, then the room will visually become longer, and if across, then on the contrary, it will increase in width.

Mirrors will help enhance this visual effect. This must be taken into account in rooms with a non-standard shape.

Diagonal masonry can only be done by professionals in their field. It is less economical compared to laying along or across, since it forms enough scraps. From a design point of view, the diagonal laying method is best applied to square rooms... You will need a miter saw to cut correctly. The angle of the saw cut should be equal in some places to 45 degrees, in others - 30 degrees.

Laying begins in the center of the room. To maintain a straight line, you need to pull the thread or draw with a felt-tip pen on the floor. The first row is the central one, you can continue to lay from it both in one direction and in the other.

The herringbone layout has been known to many since Soviet times. Parquet was laid in this way. The installation principle is no different, the only difference is the length of the parquet board - it significantly exceeds the length of the parquet.

Deck laying is slightly different from the longitudinal method - the offset of the new row should be more than half the parquet board of the previous one. Thus, a good fixation is achieved, which means that the service life of the floor covering is increased.

Preparation of the base

Before laying a parquet board, you need to take care of the base. The subfloor not only evens out the surface, but also contributes to noise reduction and thermal insulation. Craftsmen recommend making a capital foundation and never returning to it. This approach saves not only money, but also time and effort.

The sub-floor has two types - dry and self-leveling. The first type is done on logs, and the second is done with concrete. For a wet floor, you can also use concrete-claydite. You only need to start from the availability in the hardware store and from the financial situation.

A self-leveling sub-floor is mainly made in panel urban houses. This is due to the fact that the floors of such houses are made of reinforced concrete slabs. V country houses it is possible to make a concrete screed, but this requires an appropriate foundation.

Remember that you need to pour the concrete screed only after fixing the waterproofing. For this, plastic wrap sold in a hardware store is quite suitable.

If waterproofing is not done, it is highly likely that liquid concrete will get through the cracks to the neighbors living on the floor below. Therefore, it is necessary to fix the film thoroughly, and along the edges of the room it should be supplemented with penoflex.

The next layer of the "pie" is thermal insulation material... Of the commonly used polystyrene foam and penofol can be distinguished. The latter has an additional coating consisting of aluminum foil, which reflects heat. Foamed polyethylene is a novelty on construction market, its cost is slightly higher than its predecessors, but due to its unique features, the material is gaining popularity.

It would be useful to cover the thermal insulation material with another layer of waterproofing.

Before pouring the floor with a concrete screed, beacons must be set up. The screed will subsequently be leveled along them. For accuracy, you should use the building level, it must be of suitable dimensions and characteristics.

Concrete-claydite has improved indicators of noise absorption and thermal insulation. It sets the benchmark in this segment and is head and shoulders above obsolete concrete.

Mix the solution according to the instructions, then pour it onto the prepared base in a short time. Alignment concrete screed carried out with the help of a tool - the rules, do not forget about the lighthouses. Surplus must be removed without regret. After the surface is smooth, the floor is left to dry.

A sub-floor made of wood is mounted on a concrete base. To do this, lags are laid on the prepared surface.

In this case, the base must be leveled and not have significant distortions, otherwise the parquet board, laid on such a base, will "creak". And the floor itself will be crooked.

If the concrete floor in the room is uneven, it is recommended to "touch up" it slightly. It is correct, from the point of view of the installers, to use an additional layer of screed. A small amount of solution is enough to only correct this disadvantage. The next stage is started after it is completely dry.

Subsequently, you need to put on the screed waterproofing film... All gaps are thoroughly glued with ordinary adhesive tape. As sound insulation, you can use a natural material - cork or the previously mentioned foamed polyethylene. Without this layer, there is a high probability of noise when walking.

Directly for lag, it is best to use a high quality edged board from solid wood with dimensions 25 x 100 mm. It is undesirable to save in this matter, otherwise the result will be disastrous. Remember, the miser pays twice. The logs are installed on a noise-suppressing layer, the result of the work is checked all the time using a building level. Attach the logs to the floor with corners.

The insulation is laid between the logs in such a way as to be level with them, there should be no protrusions. Plywood is laid on top of this structure. If the budget is limited, then plywood can be replaced with a floorboard.

Remember that the thickness of the plywood must be more than 20 mm, otherwise it will deform under the weight of the traffic. Negatively on thin plywood massive furniture can also be affected.

Plywood should be staggered. This contributes to the fact that the joints will not be in the same row. Installation is carried out using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws. Do not forget that you need to lay plywood, making an indent from the wall... It must be at least 3 cm.

If the house is wooden, then the sub-floor can be installed along the load-bearing beams. In this case, the beams will play the role of a lag, which means that thanks to this, you can significantly save money. But remember that p The distance between the beams should be small, otherwise you will have to "build up" an additional base from the lag.

Substrate selection

If the parquet board is laid without using polyurethane glue (or any other), then a substrate must be installed between the product and the base. Manufacturers also give recommendations on the underlying layer. This layer comes in the form of non-woven rolls or ordinary mats.

The underlay contributes to the airtight adhesion of the parquet board to the concrete or wooden floor, thanks to this, the likelihood of squeaks or other extraneous noise is reduced.

The underlay protects the tool joint from premature breakage. It retains heat well in the room, prevents damage to the parquet board due to moisture.

Despite all the advantages, it is worth remembering that they are achieved only if the thickness of the substrate does not exceed 3 mm. "Overdose", as in the case of pills, leads to negative consequences, in particular, to the destruction of the locks of the parquet board.

The choice of substrate is determined by the type of subfloor. For concrete, a non-breathable backing can be used. And for a wooden base - only from natural materials, because if you use polyethylene, the wood can begin to rot under the influence of moisture.

The most affordable is the elastomer backing layer.... It comes in three flavors. Ordinary can be called uncrosslinked polyethylene, in the second "place" - having a layer of aluminum foil - either on one or on both sides. And foamed polyethylene, just do not confuse it with polyurethane and polypropylene.

The popularity of this synthetic material is due to its democratic cost, ease of installation, excellent water-repellent properties... The material does not deteriorate under the influence of the chemical environment. Unfortunately, there is also a significant disadvantage - during operation, the material can settle, which means that air will appear between the base and the parquet board, which can lead to a squeak.

Used as a backing layer one more synthetic material- expanded polystyrene. On sale it can be found in the form of an accordion, there are also improved versions with a foil heat-reflecting layer. This material is easy to install, it protects the parquet board from moisture, has good noise-canceling qualities, and retains heat. Unfortunately, it also has its drawback - it is high cost.

Underlays made from pine or spruce are sold in hardware stores as softwood mats. The coniferous underlayment is suitable for all sub-floors. It possesses all the previously voiced qualities, like other representatives of this segment. Of the minuses, experts note the high cost and installation - it is uneconomical and labor-intensive.

In addition, like any natural material, it is damaged by pests and fungal spores. It is desirable that the thickness of the substrate is less than 5 mm.

Building board was developed in the country that invented the parquet board. Therefore, we can safely recommend this underlying layer as an alternative to the rest. Cardboard is notable for its density, it is very difficult to tear it, it “breathes”, has noise-reducing qualities. But like any paper, cardboard does not tolerate moisture; it should not be laid in kitchens and bathrooms. Another disadvantage is the cost.

Cork backing is available in special sheets and in rolls. It is a natural building material obtained by pressing the bark of a tree. The most commonly used bark is oak. Glue it together using various resins. Like any natural material, it is colonized by fungal spores, so it is imperative to lay waterproofing.

There are varieties in the store that have two layers. Second waterproofing layer is either rubber or bitumen. The addition gives the product soundproofing qualities, resistance to deformation and static electricity. Depending on the presence of the second layer or its absence, the thickness of the cork backing can be either 2 or 7 mm.

One of the latest innovations in the construction segment is the Tuplex underlay, which is suitable for parquet boards with a thickness of over 10 mm. It is a synthetic material consisting of double polyethylene film and filler. The filler is mainly made from polystyrene. The underlay is also suitable for the "warm floor" system. Adhesive tape is used to fix it.

A plywood underlay is only required when leveling the base. If there is no such need, then the substrate will not be needed.

You can choose a backing layer in any hardware store, starting only from your preferences and financial situation.

We lay on concrete

As an example, the adhesive installation method will be considered. Before starting the installation of the parquet board, it is necessary to treat the concrete floor with an acrylic primer. The application layer should not be too thick. After the primer has covered the entire surface, you need to wait until it dries.

In terms of its physical characteristics, the glue should not resemble liquid sour cream; it is better that it be denser. The glue is applied to the concrete base in any convenient way, preferably with a brush. It is spread over the surface with a wide metal spatula.

Without waiting for the glue to dry, a backing layer in the form of plywood sheets is laid. The glue must be applied evenly in all areas so that the plywood lies equally flat - the work is checked using a building level. Plywood is laid in any way, there is no difference, the main thing is not to forget to rub the seams with acrylic sealant. After two days, the work is checked again with a level, and if the installation is done with high quality, then it is necessary to fix the result - to grind the surface.

A tape belt is suitable for this stage. sanding machine, it speeds up the process and does its job efficiently. You won't be able to achieve the same result with sandpaper.

The second stage is related to the laying of parquet boards; for this, either polyurethane glue or acrylic is suitable. First, wedges are installed - they limit the parquet board, and the gap is equal to 10 mm.

The glue is prepared in small containers and used in the first minutes; the board is laid with spikes against the wall. You will need a toothed trowel to spread the adhesive.

If the next row is cut by a third, then you can achieve a beautiful pattern. In addition, the latch joint will hold better and will not collapse after a while. The leveling of the parquet board must be checked with the building level.

If glue comes out over the edges, it must be removed. After installing the floor, all joints are sealed with a sealant. The finishing of the parquet is done after waiting five days.

If the room has a wooden lining, then the floor is installed without glue and self-tapping screws. The main condition is the small dimensions of the room or terrace. In this case, the castle connection will cope with its task with a bang, and the parquet board will last a long time.

How to lay on a "warm floor"?

First of all, I would like to note the fact that for a warm floor it is necessary to lay a parquet board made of either oak or walnut. It is these two types of wood, in terms of their physical characteristics, that ensure compatibility with it, since they do not deform under the influence of temperature. If the base is maple or beech, then such a board will fail in a short time period, because their thermal conductivity is higher.

It is very important to take into account the thickness of the parquet board, and if the board is thick, then the effect of "warm floor" will not be felt. The fact is that thick wood will not let heat out. Only products whose thickness does not exceed 14.5 mm cope with this task.

The floor must be installed in a floating way. With this method of laying, the tree does not deform under the influence of moisture and when the temperature regime... The floor heating system also plays an important role. Remember that wood is highly flammable, which means there is a risk of fire.

Warm floors are infrared, water and electric type... Water and electric floor heating have been known to the world since the beginning of the last century. Electric heating elements are cables, but there is a risk of fire in a wooden box, and water ones are not allowed to be laid in city apartments at all, since neighbors can be flooded from below.

Infrared film underfloor heating was invented in South Korea several years ago. This is a kind of novelty, although indirectly it can be called a kind of electrical heating systems. It should be remembered that the temperature set on the thermostat should not be higher than 28 degrees.

Water floor - the best option for country cottages, provided that the overlap between the basement and the first floor is made with wooden blocks. It has significant disadvantages, including:

• Wear plastic pipes... Possibility of flooding basement and damage to parquet boards.
• Problematic temperature regulation.
• The floor will be raised ten centimeters.
• It is obligatory to have your own boiler room.

There are also a number of rules for installing a parquet board on a heating system. Firstly, installation is carried out only by a floating method, using plywood as a substrate. Secondly, the parquet board should not heat up to 30 degrees and above. If this happens, the tree will become unusable.

It is possible to lay a parquet board yourself on the underfloor heating system, but for this you need to carefully study the algorithm of work, and if you have doubts about your abilities, it is better to contact the specialists.

Installation technology

Let's take an infrared warm floor as an example, since this novelty is easiest to lay with your own hands in city apartments and in country houses.

The step-by-step instructions assume that the installation is carried out on a prepared concrete or wooden base, it must be leveled, clean and dry. Differences should be checked with a building level, they should not exceed 2 mm.

For the concrete floor, sanding will have to be done, and for the wooden floor, scraping. It is very important to clean the surface after work using a vacuum cleaner and a broom.

Next, you need to secure the heating system from the actions of the concrete base; for this, a backing layer is laid. Polyethylene acts as a waterproofing and thermal insulation. It is important to mark out the infrared floor system, find a place for the sensor and thermostat. He is responsible for setting the temperature. Infrared mats are mounted with the foil down, fixed to each other with adhesive tape. Bituminous insulation protects products from the external environment.

After all the connecting stages, the operation of the warm floor is checked. If the heating occurs evenly, then a plywood layer is attached on top. It is on it that the installation of the parquet board will subsequently be carried out.

Laying solid parquet boards can also be done by one person. Modern models with lock connection of combiloks are easy to install and reliable in operation. It doesn't matter whether a two-lane or three-lane parquet board will be used, the installation procedure for all products is the same and it has already been discussed in the previous sections.

How to dock?

Unfortunately, the parquet board does not tolerate moisture, and in some rooms it is necessary to make a transition between the board and the tiles or with other building materials. Most often, docking is used in the corridor - before front door, between the hallway and the kitchen, between the bathroom and the hallway.

In studio apartments, country houses and other premises, the joint with tiles without a sill can be sealed with a sealant and a liquid cork. It is desirable that the sealant matches the color of one of the building materials.

Remember that a colorless sealant is versatile and will work in most situations. Unfortunately, a poor-quality substance will quickly become unusable and repairs will have to be redone. Apply it with a pistol or syringe.

The liquid cork can be applied even by a non-specialist in this field, since it is a kind of glue. The glue holds the two building materials together, does not deform or crumble. It is advisable to apply it after pretreating the surface with oil. After the glue is dry, cut it off with a knife. To do this, you can use a construction or clerical knife.

As decorative material wood cork, plastic or metal profile can be used. The cork, made of wood, is mounted in the joints before grinding. The main feature of this material can be called the fact that it acquires various geometric shapes and it looks beautiful in most interiors. Another plus is that the lock connection is not damaged during the operational period.

The metal and plastic profile is laid only in a straight line. The profile protrudes above the surface. From a design point of view, this is the worst case scenario. Metallic profile, as a rule, has additional holes, screws have to be screwed into them.

Remember that you need to work with a tile with a special drill, otherwise it may lose its presentation.

Features of wall and ceiling mounting

Fastening parquet to the wall and ceiling is another trend of recent times. Thus, the unity of the interior is achieved, a kind of "box" is obtained. This room is suitable for placement of speaker systems - home theater, music room and projector.

You need to fix the parquet board on a special frame, something similar was discussed in one of the sections - laying the floor on logs, only in this case the guides are located on the ceiling and on the walls.

If the cladding is fixed on the wall and even more so on the ceiling only with the help of a lock connection, then such a structure will fall apart like a house of cards. This is fraught with injuries and abrasions. Therefore, self-tapping screws are additionally screwed into each parquet board.

The transition between the ceiling and the wall can be left straight, but for elegance, craftsmen recommend bending the parquet board. With the help of a router, small indentations are made, after which the board "yields". The radius is determined by trial and error, but remember that it must be the same on all walls. The finishing is completed by the ceiling.

Frequent mistakes

Often, the installation of a parquet board begins immediately after purchasing it. This is one of the most common mistakes. Construction material must "get used" to the temperature conditions of the room, its humidity.

Remember that the temperature should not be lower than 18 degrees. The parquet board should be idle for at least two days.

The subfloor must be leveled without fail; differences of only about 2 mm are permissible. It is best to use concrete-claydite, it gives the surface not only a leveled look, but also thermal insulation and sound absorption. Everything next steps are performed only after one hundred percent dry.

The waterproofing and underlay layer allows the parquet board to be used for a long time without squeaking, and if you save money on them, the result will be the opposite.

It is very important to lay the parquet board in last, but if the room requires wallpapering the walls, then you need to start with them. Remember that the wallpaper, after pasting, releases moisture when it dries, which means that the humidity in the room will be increased.

Wooden base the parquet board is not intended for rooms with high humidity, its indicators must be normal and comply with the recommendations given by the manufacturers.

Examples in the interior

• In a country house a parquet board can be used to beat the upper floor at the transition from the wall to the roof. Such a smooth transition is achieved due to the milling grooves, it is only important when fastening not to forget about the self-tapping screws. An ordinary lock connection will not be able to support the own weight of the parquet board.
• In studio apartments it is very important not to forget that the parquet board does not tolerate high humidity, and from this it follows that it is advisable to lay in the kitchen or in the corridor tile or moisture resistant parquet. Docking in this case can be done in any convenient way. In an apartment, such a transition is most often made in the hallway, because if you step on a parquet board with wet shoes all the time, then it will become unusable in a short time.