The cheapest, but also the most time-consuming method, but it is only good for wall tiles, in floor tiles it is much harder to cut a hole in this way, and in porcelain stoneware it is better not to try.

To do this, you will need a hacksaw for metal, a diamond blade and a little patience. The diamond blade looks like this:

Diamond blades are sold in shops and markets. Estimated price $ 2-4.

If the pipe falls on one ceramic tile, and is already installed, then first draw on the face of the tile with a pencil or marker the contours of the hole (taking into account the thickness of the seam) and cut the tile with a tile cutter so that the tile cut falls in the middle of the future hole. I understand that it is not easy to do this, certain mathematical calculations are needed here, and still, as practice shows, mistakes are not rare. Do not be discouraged, with the next tile you will definitely succeed. The newer the canvas, the faster you cut the hole, but you still have to tinker for 10-20 minutes. So that the glaze on the tile does not chip off, you need to cut the tile only in one direction, moving the hacksaw along the metal and, accordingly, the canvas down. Of course, the glaze or the front side of the tile is on top of us. You need to lift the canvas carefully, again so as not to chip off a piece of the glaze.

If you want to make a hole very accurately, so that there is the same 2-3 mm gap everywhere between the pipe and the tile, then it is better to cut a hole with a smaller diameter, and then adjust it in place, processing the tile surface with a round file or sandpaper. In this case, it will take you much more time, but you can achieve an almost perfect result.

To prevent the glaze on the tile from chipping off, you only need to grind the tile in one direction - down.

The result will look something like this (first a general view, then a top view, from where no one ever looks):

In the place of the hole, the tile can be cut in half, but a cutout can be made to insert the tile. If the pipe is located close to the wall and is approximately at eye level, then this option gives a good result. It will look something like this:

In the first case, the grout fell out of the seam when the pipes in the bathroom were changed; in the second case, he was going to rub the seam after painting the pipe, but he had not yet gotten to it. In general, the use of cement grout, if the pipe is not rigidly fixed, is undesirable, it is better to use acrylic sealant and then paint it over, but this is a separate topic.

2. With a circular drill on a tile - a "ballerina".

This method is suitable if you need to drill multiple holes. The "ballerina" can't stand it anymore, and in general it can bend right away - it depends on the model and the quality of the metal. But the price of a "ballerina" is not big - $ 2-10. The ballerinas look like this:

3. Crown (hole saw) with carbide taps.

The most accurate and fastest way. The only drawback is the relatively high price of carbide-tipped hole saws - $ 40-60, which is not much cheaper than diamond bits. The crowns look like this:

For best quality, you can use a drill tripod.

Before drilling, it is advisable to screw the glaze of the tile so that the drill does not run, this can even be done with a nail or screw if the core is not at hand. Place the core in the center of the future hole and hit it lightly with a hammer.

And do not forget to wet the tiles, this will not only speed up the process, but also extend the life of the tool and reduce the amount of dust.

Ceramic tiles are an excellent finishing material that is widely used in private construction and when carrying out repairs in apartments. Durability, water resistance, high hygiene, practicality, ease of maintenance, relatively low price and plus all this - excellent decorativeness make tiles an almost indispensable material for kitchens, baths, toilets, for finishing entrance groups - porches, verandas, hallways, etc. NS .

Learning is quite accessible for the average owner of a house or apartment: a little diligence, diligence - and experience will come very quickly. But it is equally important to know how to drill a tile. Holes, one way or another, will be needed, for example, for hanging furniture, interior accessories, for wiring pipes or other communications, for installing sockets and switches and for other needs. It's okay - we will learn to drill ceramics.

What is required to drill ceramic tiles

What, in fact, is the essence of the whole problem of drilling in ceramics? Features of the technological process of tile production - high-temperature firing, high density of the material and its surface strength (especially if there is a glazing layer) have, in addition to the obvious advantages, a logical disadvantage. Ceramic products are distinguished by fragility, the absence of any kind of plasticity, and the tile, if handled carelessly, when cut or drilled, can easily crack, chip, or even fall apart into several fragments.

In addition, the material itself during processing has a very strong abrasive effect on cutting tools, and conventional drills will become dull in a matter of seconds.

Conclusions - for drilling, do not apply excessive load, vibration action, large number of tool revolutions. And, accordingly, the drills themselves must be made of high-strength materials capable of passing a dense structure, and have the appropriate configuration or sharpening.

So, what you may need to drill a tile:

Drawing	Short description
	Electric drill. The main condition for it is the obligatory presence of a smooth speed control.
	A high-quality screwdriver with a powerful autonomous power source may well be enough.
	There is no need to write off the already forgotten hand drills. For drilling small holes, such a tool will be quite enough, and adjusting the rotation speed is generally no problem. By the way, sometimes even an ordinary brace can come in handy.
	Standard carbide tipped drills. Frankly, not the best choice - this sharpening option will create difficulties when passing through the most durable top layer of the tile. Rather, they will be necessary for deepening into the thickness of the wall after the holes in the tile have been made with other drills. More designed for shock and rotational action.
	Special lance drills for working with tiles. They are very convenient for making small diameter holes (for example, for dowel fixings). May have a conventional cylindrical shank for clamping in a drill chuck. There are drills with a hexagon, for the size of standard bits - it is convenient to work with them when using a screwdriver. Usually, these drills are enough for a couple of dozen holes in an ordinary tile. It is more difficult with porcelain stoneware - they cannot master more than two or three holes.
	Special tungsten carbide drills with one-sided sharp angle sharpening. They "bite" well into the tile, easily pass through the outer, most dense layer. These drills from a good manufacturer will do a lot.
	Special drill bits with diamond or corundum coating. They already belong to the category of a professional tool, they are able to cope with both tiles and porcelain stoneware. They are a hollow tube that facilitates the drilling process - there is a free outlet for waste. Most often produced for large bore holes.
	Similar to those already mentioned - drill bits with tungsten carbide coating. They can be used not only for ceramic tiles, but also for natural materials - marble, granite, etc. They are usually sold in sets for a number of diameters, that is, they are purchased more often by professionals who are constantly faced with such a technological operation.
	For one-time work, if it is necessary to make holes of large diameter, it will be more profitable to purchase a special drill - "ballerina". It is inexpensive, but it can perfectly cope with the task in the range of diameters from about 30 to 90 mm. The design is simple - a center drill (usually a lance) and a parallel carbide stem. the leg overhang can be changed - this is how the desired hole radius is set.
	Some models of tile cutters are equipped with a built-in manual "compass" - a device that allows you to cut a hole in the tile without resorting to other tools. The scheme is similar to the "ballerina", and the rotation is transmitted manually using the handle.
	For the convenience of work, for precise drilling of even holes, special devices can be used - conductors. They are usually attached to the surface using suction cups, and do not allow the drill to go to the side, which is especially important when starting drilling.
	When drilling some types of tiles, the tool will heat up quickly and the quality of the work will be reduced. We have to resort to artificial cooling with water. To do this, use special blowers that supply water under low pressure to the cutting site.

After you have decided on the tool, you can proceed to practical work.

Prices for the popular line of electric drills

Electric drill

First, here are some general tips:

• If there is an opportunity (there are fragments of unnecessary tiles), then it makes sense to go through a little workout first. When everything starts to work out, you can move on to the desired task.
• It can be very important to make accurate markings. You can, of course, mark the point of the future drilling with a pencil or marker directly on the surface of the tile. However, firstly, not every pencil will leave a mark on tiles (especially on glazed ones). Secondly, this mark is very easy to smear with an awkward movement. A very simple method seems to be optimal - the area of ​​the hole is sealed with a piece of ordinary masking tape, and after that it is already possible to carry out the marking - everything will be perfectly visible.

The positive "influence" of scotch tape is not limited to this. Practice shows that it is much easier to start drilling this way - the sharpened edge of the drill will not slide off the target point. This is much better than trying to center the center. When working with a core (let it be a hardened nail dowel or a sharp file), there is always a chance to damage the tile surface or even allow a chip (crack).

• High RPM should never be used when drilling tiles. The range of rotation frequency is from 100 to 400 rpm. It is difficult to indicate the exact value - it depends on the type of drill, and on its diameter, and on the thickness and material of manufacture of the tile itself. But in practice, the required frequency is very quickly found empirically.
• It is necessary to take it as a rule - if a drill is used in which the impact function is provided, then it is imperative to check that this option is disabled before starting work.
• If tiles that have not yet been laid are being drilled, then a comfortable workplace must be prepared for work. The surface must be flat, stable and free from vibrations. A material should be laid underneath that will not interfere with the drill - it can be wood, plywood, or even an unnecessary piece of drywall.

It is imperative to check that there are no solid fragments left on the desktop that will interfere with the tight adhesion of the tile to the surface.

• The cutting tool can become very hot during operation, and overheating of the drilling site often leads to cracks in the tile. This means that you should not apply excessive efforts - it is better to give a little more time to getting the hole. It is fashionable to cool the drill itself periodically by lowering it, for example, into machine oil. Sometimes, when working on horizontal surfaces, they resort to "local cooling" - an annular shaft is molded from plasticine around the intended center of the hole, and the resulting "container" is filled with water.

If the hole is drilled on, then you need to be extremely careful with the oily presentation of the drill - drops of oil can get into the grout, and you will have to suffer a lot to get rid of such stains.

Sometimes you have to resort to forced supply of coolant. Many professionals have a special tool for these purposes - usually a pumping vessel, in which excess pressure is created by a hand pump, and a special jig, which centers the drill and ensures that the fluid flows into the drilling area.

• The drill should always be located perpendicular to the surface of the tile - if there are no special holding devices, then you will need to constantly monitor this yourself.

• Drilling into ceramics (especially when making large-diameter holes) can be accompanied by the scattering of microscopic but very sharp fragments. Do not forget about it - it is necessary take action to protect the hands and especially the eyes.

Now that the basic concepts are outlined, we can proceed to consider the most typical holes in ceramic tiles - small holes for dowels, and large diameter holes - for laying communications and installing plumbing, sockets or switches

Small hole drilling

A typical situation when you need to hang on the wall some piece of furniture, a mirror, a towel rack, a cabinet or shelf, or another bathroom or kitchen accessory. In this case, hammer-in plastic dowels with a diameter of up to 12 mm are usually used. The situation is considered when work is being carried out on a wall already tiled with tiles, the glue under which is completely frozen.

First of all, you need to decide on the location of the hole. The fact is that it is desirable that it is located at least 15 mm from the edge of the tile. Otherwise, it is very likely that either the drill will slip into the seam between the tiles, or the edge from overheating or vibration during drilling will simply crack or break off altogether.

• After marking, it is necessary to insert a drill of the required diameter into the drill chuck. We proceed from the dimensions of the dowels preparing for the installation - the hole in the tile should be 1 ÷ 2 mm wider than the diameter of the dowel plug.
• The drill is installed in the intended center (the tape should not allow the tip to slip), and then drilling begins at low speeds. The most difficult thing is to go through the top layer of the tile - further drilling will go "more fun".
• As soon as the thickness of the tile has been passed, and the drill has reached the wall, it is taken out - there is no point in blunting an expensive tool. A conventional drill for perforating walls is taken, with a diameter that exactly matches the size of the dowel.
• The drill should freely pass through the hole in the tile, and then you can continue drilling into the wall itself to the required depth. Of course, this is done very carefully so as not to damage the edges of the hole in the tile by accidental skewing, since a long drill may have a slight "runout".
• Then it remains only to insert a dowel into the hole made and carefully hammer it in. Remember, an awkward movement can ruin all the work done - from an accidental hit on the surface, the tile can crack.
• After that, nothing should prevent you from screwing in the hook, self-tapping screw, or other fastener.

Drilling large holes

Large-diameter holes (from 20 mm and above) are most often drilled into the tile even before laying it on the walls or. Careful marking is carried out with the determination of centers, and the tiles are laid on a working workbench.

Here, the drilling technology may differ slightly - it largely depends on the type of drill used.

1. If a "ballerina" is used, then for a start it is advisable to go through the tile in the center with a small diameter drill (about 3-4 mm) - this will greatly simplify the further process.

When installing the ballerina's movable leg, do not forget that in this way we set the radius, that is, half the diameter - do not make a mistake here. After setting the required radius, the locking screw is tightly tightened, with force so that the movable leg does not move under the influence of vibration and centrifugal force.

The process of drilling a tile "ballerina"

When drilling, small revolutions are maintained, the drill is perpendicular to the surface and not too large, but constant, uniform downward pressure. With excessive force, the drill can jam, and it will be extremely difficult to keep the tile on the surface of the workbench. The sharp cutting edge of the tool should do the trick on its own.

Care must be taken to maintain the same depth cut along the entire length of the resulting circle.

Sometimes it becomes necessary to "earn some money" the edge of the resulting hole

Sometimes the edges of the hole will require a little tweaking - this can be done with pliers and then sanded down with sandpaper.

When drilling with a "ballerina", great care should be taken - she itself is an eccentric, so the process may be accompanied by increased vibration. For greater safety, it is recommended to use a "ballerina" with a protective plastic cover.

Drill - "ballerina" with a protective cover

2. If the master has diamond, corundum or tungsten carbide drill bits, the process is simplified.

Such drills can have their own shank for fixing in the drill chuck, or they can be a collapsible design with a replaceable crown for several diameters.

Please note - the photo shows the crowns with a central pilot drill. Working with them should not be particularly difficult - the center is set at the intended point, and then drilling is performed with slight pressure at low speeds. Holes are usually very regular, with straight edges that do not require rework.

However, you can find crowns that do not have a central drill - this is especially typical for small-diameter tools.

How to center them, how to set the correct center of the hole to be drilled? For this, the already mentioned devices are used - conductors. Often they are even sold in the same set with drills.

Convenient set - crowns with a jig, which can be connected to forced cooling

The jig is attached to the wall (usually on a suction cup) so that the hole of the required diameter on it is located exactly above the intended center. After that, it will be simply impossible to make a mistake - drilling will take place exactly where it is necessary.

There are also "light versions" of such a device - templates that are applied or glued with tape to the wall in the right place, and then a hole is drilled. Convenience, of course, in this case is less, but the accuracy will be observed. Generally speaking, such a template is only necessary until the crown sinks slightly into the surface of the tile. By the way, some craftsmen, saving money, cut out such templates for themselves from a regular sheet of 10 mm plywood.

3. Finally, we can mention the most "popular" way of making large-diameter holes in ceramic tiles. It is used when there is no way to find a suitable drill.

The point is that a series of small-diameter holes are drilled along the marked circle. Then it will be necessary to carefully break off the central fragment, and then modify the resulting opening to the required round shape - with files, files or sandpaper.

This method cannot be called fast and easy, but nevertheless - and it has a right to exist.

And at the end of the article - an object lesson on how to drill tiles from a professional:

Video: several options for drilling ceramic tiles

The tile is highly durable, water-resistant, relatively cheap and practical to maintain. You can easily lay it on the wall or floor in your own home without any problems. However, when performing tile work, novice craftsmen have to seriously break their heads - how to drill the tile correctly and so that it does not burst in the process. After all, standard drills for concrete cannot be used here.

Which drill and which tools should you use?

Holes in ceramic tiles are made for pipes, sockets and fasteners for installing furniture or plumbing. Even in a small bathroom, it has to be drilled a lot. However, at the slightest oversight of the master, the tile cracks and splits, because the ceramics itself and especially its upper glaze layer are fragile. And then the resulting fragments can only be sent to the trash, since it is often impossible to use them elsewhere.

What tools should be used

To drill a hole in a tile, you will need:

• electric drill or powerful screwdriver;
• drills are spear-shaped and with one-sided acute-angled sharpening;
• diamond drill bits;
• ballerina with a sliding cutter.

You can even use a hand drill for drilling. But if a lot of holes in the tile are required, then it would be more correct to replace it with an electrical analogue. Also, for drilling on tiles, you will need a marking pencil and water to cool the working tool. If drills and crowns are not constantly wetted, they will quickly become dull or crack from overheating.

Drill types

What can I do to prevent ceramic tiles from cracking?

Not every pencil is capable of leaving a clearly visible mark on the tile. Therefore, it is recommended to first stick paper tape in place under the hole, and then draw a cross on it to indicate the point of drilling the hole. The glued paper will also make the work easier, as the drill will slip less on the smooth glaze.

Use masking tape to make work easier

To minimize the risk of ceramic splitting when drilling tiles, you should:

1. Switch on the drill only at low speeds - the norm is 100–400 rpm.
2. Drill ceramic tiles a couple of days after gluing, when the glue has firmly set, or on a flat and stable surface with a board or gypsum board.
3. Work without undue pressure and with constant wetting of the cutting tool for cooling.
4. Forget about the hammer drilling function in the drill (the hole in the tile can be drilled exclusively in the non-hammer mode).
5. Hold the drill bit strictly perpendicular to the ceramic surface.
6. Move the drilling point at least 15–20 mm from the edge of the tile - the closer to the center the hole is drilled, the less chance of splitting.

If the skills in handling a drill are minimal, then you should first practice on an unnecessary piece of tile. Splitting tiles out of inexperience is as easy as shelling pears. Drilling holes in it is a responsible business and does not tolerate haste. If the incorrect installation of beacons for floor screed requires only a small addition of concrete, then if it is improperly handled with fragile ceramics, it will instantly crack.

If you do not have the skills to work with tiles, it is better to entrust the matter to the master.

How to drill dowel holes in tiles?

Depending on the required dimensions, the holes are recommended to be drilled with different tools. In some cases, you will have to use a crown, while in others, a drill of 8-16 mm is enough. But a situation is also possible when it will be difficult to do without a grinder.

To drill a tile for dowels, you need a tile drill 1–2 mm larger than the plastic insert for a self-tapping screw. They need to first carefully drill a layer of glaze without too much pressure. And then all the remaining ceramics are slowly passed through to the wall.

Directly the wall surface, especially if it is concrete, should be drilled with another drill of a slightly smaller size. Waste a specialized and expensive tool designed for tiles is not worth it and is simply pointless.

What drills to use for different surfaces

How to drill a hole for taps or sockets?

A thin drill is not enough to drill holes larger than 20 mm for pipes or socket boxes. Here you will have to use crowns or a ballerina. The first option is more expensive, but also easier to use. And the second option allows you to get by with one tool, with which it is possible to drill holes of different cross-sections.

If there is no ballerina or crown of a suitable diameter, then you will have to drill several small holes around the perimeter of the large one. After drilling them, you will need to carefully cut out the center outlined in this way with pliers and trim its edges with a rasp.

You can also resort to using a grinder. But it will be difficult to drill an even round hole with it. It is more of a tool for trimming tiles to the required dimensions or cutting rectangular pieces out of them.

In the process of repairing a kitchen, bathroom, toilet and other utility rooms, the question often arises of how you can drill a hole in a tile. Of course, this must be done in such a way that it does not burst and does not lose its visual appeal.

At first glance, it may seem that everything is simple, but this is not at all the case. Tile is a slippery and brittle material, so if you are not a professional builder, tile drilling can be a real challenge. So how do you drill a tile without loss?

In fact, everything is not as complicated as it might seem at first. You just need to heed some advice:

• Find the right tool first. It should fit comfortably in your hand. You need to hold it firmly and confidently.
• The working speed of the selected tool should not exceed 1000, and even better 800 rpm.
• Hold the drill or screwdriver in one position, do not press or change the angle. This can lead to the appearance of a "cobweb".
• If you need to drill a hole at the junction of two tiles, use an extremely thin drill, even if it is not tiled, but in concrete.
• If possible, retreat at least 1.5 cm from the edge of the tile, the corners and edges of the tile are very fragile.
• It is best to drill the holes before installing the tiles on the wall. Soak material in water for at least 40 minutes. This will make the tile more viscous and will not crack.
• If you don’t know how to drill a tile so that it doesn’t crack, and have never done so, it’s best to practice on the unnecessary pieces first. So you can feel the tool and understand how hard you need to press on the drill.

Choosing a tool

So, how to drill First you need to choose the drill itself. The model should not be either high-speed or shock, because you need to work with very fragile material.

Suitable for working with tiles:

• an ordinary electric drill turned on at the lowest speed;
• low-speed screwdriver plugged into an outlet;
• cordless screwdriver with a rotation speed of no more than 800 rpm;
• hand drill-brace.

Some nuances of work

To understand how to drill a tile, you need to consider some subtleties:

• In no case do not overheat the drill or the tile itself, otherwise the entire top layer will be covered with a "cobweb" and the material will crack.
• To cool the work surface, regularly moisten the drilling area with cold water.
• Try to correctly determine the pressure. If you press too lightly on the drill, the hole will not work. If you squeeze, the tiles will crack.
• When in tiles, never use reverse mode. Only a slow clockwise rotation of the drill is permissible.
• Be especially careful at the joints. There, the tile does not have a protective coating and crumbles easily.

Choosing drills

The science of how to drill a hole in a tile is not too difficult, but it has its own peculiarities. For example, a correctly selected drill.

If you are at least a little familiar with construction work, then you know that drills are different: for wood, concrete, metal, and so on. So "tiled" drills have their own characteristics. The process here is based on abrasive friction. So for drilling tiles or porcelain stoneware tiles, you will need a victorious or diamond drill. Most often they are in the shape of a crown or an arrowhead.

If you are not too tight-lipped in funds, then it is better to give preference to diamond-coated consumables. They are, of course, more expensive, but they do better with ceramics. Pobedit lance drills are also designed to work with tiles. Due to the shape of the tip and the special angle of the incisal edge, the contact surface is significantly reduced. You will have to make less effort, which means that the tiles will not crack.

Drilling according to all the rules

• Before drilling the tile, glue the intended area of ​​work in several layers. This will prevent the tool from slipping and slightly strengthen the edges of the potential hole. You can also use duct tape or regular medical tape.
• Use a bright marker to draw the lines.
• Insert the special "tile" drill bit and set the drill at the lowest speed.
• If the device has a shock mode, be sure to turn it off. Failure to do so will necessarily lead to tile splitting.

In those cases when it is necessary to drill a deep hole in the wall together with the tile, the work is carried out in two stages. First, the tile itself is drilled. Then they change the drill to a thinner one and continue to "gnaw" the wall itself to the desired depth. This is done in order not to damage the fragile edges of the tile during the drilling of concrete.

How to make a large hole

Or tiles, if you need to start a pipe or insert a socket? For such work, there are also special devices:

• circular drill - "ballerina";
• crown with an abrasive edge.

The ideal option in this case is a special diamond-coated bit on the cutting edge. It is quite expensive, and if you are not a professional builder, it doesn't make much sense to buy one. In order to make just a few holes, a more budgetary option is also suitable - a crown with victorious teeth. This consumable has several drawbacks:

• one piece is enough to drill about 20 holes, after which the device can be safely thrown away;
• no matter how carefully you try to act, the edges of the hole will never be perfectly even, they will definitely have chipped holes.

The winning crown also has advantages:

• low cost;
• there are many different diameters, up to 15 cm.

There is another option, how to drill a tile, if you need to cut a hole of significant diameter. This is the so-called ballerina drill. It is a spear-like structure with a special bracket in the tail section. In the last one is inserted one more - "tiled" drill. If you've ever seen a compass, you will easily understand what's what. Such a device is inexpensive and is quite suitable for homework. However, there is also a small nuance here. To work with tiles, try to choose such a "ballerina", the central drill of which is in the shape of a hexagon, not a spear. This design is more stable.

We drill a tile with a crown

• Determine the location of the future hole and seal the surface with masking tape.
• If you are not too confident in your abilities, you can make a stencil out of plywood and press it firmly against the wall in the right place.
• Install the bit of the desired diameter and start drilling at the lowest RPM possible.
• Try to keep the tool perpendicular to the wall. So the crown can evenly "bite" into the tile along the entire circumference of the cut.
• If you are using a diamond bit, the speed can be increased slightly. And to avoid excessive heating of the surface, water it with water while drilling.

Wet drilling is generally much preferable. Especially if the tile has a glossy glass finish. In this case, any drill will last much longer, and the risk of overheating and splitting the tiles is minimized.

We work as a "ballerina"

In order to use the "ballerina" drill, you need to set the dimensions correctly. Please note that between the side and center drills, you need to set not the diameter, but the radius of the future hole.

Place the main hex drill in the center and start at low speed. Try to hold the drill firmly and level, otherwise it will come off and you will not be able to achieve the desired result. One of the advantages of the "ballerina" is that with its help you can drill a hole with a diameter much larger than 15 cm. But a larger crown simply does not exist.

Conclusion

At the end of our conversation, let's once again remember how to drill a tile so that it doesn't crack and spoil the impression of a brand new renovation:

• Be sure to moisten the work area with water, for example, from a spray bottle. This will prevent overheating.
• Try not to place holes along the edge of the tile, this creates additional stress.
• If you need deep holes, change the drill to a thinner one after you have gone through the thickness of the tile. This will prevent damage to the edges of the hole.
• When drilling, be sure to use only low speed and do not press too hard on the drill.
• Try to use only special drills for work. Believe me, they are much cheaper than replacing cracked tiles.

How to make a hole in a tile? What tools and drills to use? Below we will consider the most popular and effective answers to these questions.

Content

Drill with a victorious tip

A solid carbide drill, or rather with a victorious tip, is specially made for drilling holes in concrete. But it is perfect for stitching through a tile, if, of course, you follow some rules:

1. Drill only at low speeds.
2. Do not use the hammer drill when drilling.
3. It is recommended to drill a hole in the tile with a little pressure on the drill.

When the drill passes the tile and hits the concrete base, then it will be possible to turn on the percussion mechanism of the perforator and add speed. The holes in the tiles are not difficult, so any home craftsman who knows how to handle a drill can handle it.

Drilling ceramic with a tile drill

The special feature of this drill is the carbide lance tip, which makes the drilling process more accurate. Similar drills are used when drilling holes in glass, which is known to be quite fragile.

How to make a hole in a tile? The production process consists of several nuances. To prevent the sharp edge of the drill from sliding to the side, it is recommended to stick masking tape on the tile, and then mark the future hole on it with a pencil. Thanks to the tape, the drill will remain in the place where you put it, and the tiles will be less chipped.

Scotch tape is not recommended because it can leave glue that can be difficult to scrub off the tile, especially if it has an uneven surface. In the future, a dark spot may appear in that place.

Self-tapping screws with LM tip - klopiki

It happens that it is necessary to make holes in the tiles at an object or at home, but, as luck would have it, there is no crown or drill. How to cut a hole in this case? It doesn’t matter if there are at least a few self-tapping screws with a tip in the form of a drill, with which you can do your plan.

To do this, the diameter of the pipe is outlined and along the inner contour, self-tapping screws are screwed in and out, thus, we cut a hole in the ceramic tile. The closer the holes are to each other, the easier it will be to extrude the center.

Using all of the above methods, you can cut a round hole in almost any circle.

Diamond core bit

This product is a metal circle, the working edges of which are processed with diamond grit. The size of the crowns can have different diameters, depending on the purpose. It is used for cutting out sockets, pipes, faucets, and, of course, the hood is considered the main one for the bathroom.

Readers are interested in how experts make a hole in a tile? The working process takes place during the rotation of the crown, which is put on the center drill, which is the first to enter the ceramic. Drilling takes place at medium speed.

The quality of the hole cut will depend on the amount of diamond grit. Most often, such a device is used by professionals, since the price of this product is quite high for a one-time job.

The diamond core bit is available in various configurations, which can include a pilot drill to securely hold the crown when cutting a hole in ceramic tiles. There are crowns without a drill, but it is much more difficult to apply such, a slight displacement can turn into a marriage on the tile.

If you suddenly have a crown without a center drill, then for accurate work you can use a pre-made template made of OSB or plywood. To do this, we cut out a circle in plywood with a diamond crown. Then we put the tile under the template on an even place and you can confidently cut a hole in the tile.

When purchasing a diamond crown in a store, check with the seller what this product is intended for, otherwise, unknowingly, you can buy a crown for metal, concrete or wood.

Circular drill "ballerina"

The tool is a pilot drill on which a rod is attached to hold a movable cutter. During the rotation, the drill and the cutter rotate at the same time, making the necessary hole in the tile.

This product is good for its versatility, thanks to a movable cutter that can be adjusted to any diameter. Accordingly, if you are faced with the task of cutting a hole in the tile for an outlet, take a closer look at this method.

Pros and cons of circular drill:

• This is a big plus - there is no need to spend money on expensive diamond crowns, it is enough to buy a "ballerina" and you can cut any hole in the tile for sockets and not only.
• But there is also a minus of this tool - it is not suitable for professional use, since after 30 working processes the cutter will become dull and cease to perform its functions efficiently, because of this, ceramics will suffer greatly.

How to use the "ballerina" correctly

All work consists of several stages:

1. A hole for the outlet is marked.
2. The movable cutter is adjusted to the required diameter.
3. Glaze is cut from the front side.
4. Then the tile is turned over and cut through from the back side, but not completely.
5. We finish the cut on the front side.

We cut a hole with a jigsaw

Now let's figure out how to make a hole in a tile using an electric jigsaw. Such a tool will allow the master to easily make a beautiful and even cut. With its help, you can cut through any circle and even shape, be it an oval, ellipse or triangle.

But in order to perform such work, you need to purchase a special diamond-coated blade or, as it is also called, a diamond file. Thanks to this, the cut out circle will be completely even.

The process of using a jigsaw:

1. On the front of the tile, outline the desired diameter.
2. If the crop area is at the edge, then you can start working.
3. And if the zone with the hole is in the center, then the hole is first drilled in order to insert the diamond blade. A sawing string is threaded into the finished hole and pulled out along the inner circle.
4. The main rule is to cut the tiles slowly.

Of course, all this can be done with hand tools, only the quality will be much worse.

Cut out a circle with a grinder

To make a hole in a ceramic tile for a socket without drills and crowns, you must have a grinder with a diamond wheel. With this tool, you can easily cut through tiles and make curly cuts.

Figured execution with a grinder on a tile under a pipe:

1. As in the previous examples, first of all, a circle of the required size is drawn on the front side of the tile.
2. A cross is drawn exactly in the center, then we draw diagonal lines to make something like a star.
3. We turn on the grinder and from the center we begin to cut these straight lines in order. It is necessary to sink the diamond circle to the line of the drawn circle, so that subsequently the holes in the tile are even.
4. When all the lines have been cut, you can start cutting the circle itself. Cut the circle carefully and slowly.
5. When the triangular pieces fall out of the circle, you can slightly trim the edges with the grinder.
6. It is not advisable to keep the tiles suspended during operation.

It is important to remember (so as not to spoil the branded side of the tile) - it is better to cut trims on the front part, and not on the working area.

Cutting with a glass cutter

Many DIYers are often faced with the problem of trimming ceramic tiles. For one case, buying an additional tool is irrational. Therefore, you can get by with a good glass cutter.

The cut should go along the front part, therefore, after measuring, the desired size is marked on the tile and is carried out with a glass cutter in a continuous movement until a well-cut train appears on the tile. The reverse side of the glass cutter needs to tap the cutting line (seam).

After that, the piece to be cut is removed with a sharp downward movement with nippers or pliers. It so happens that in case of unsuccessful work, there are notches that can be smoothed out with sandpaper or a stone.