The metal belt sander belongs to the category of universal tools with a wide range of applications. It is suitable for working with a variety of materials, but it is with metal that the optimal balance of speed and quality is formed.

Without this equipment, changing the size, creating ideal shapes, bright shine and attractive appearance of products is noticeably complicated, which is especially important when working with non-standard parts. The main purpose is to carry out the finishing stage of processing. Devices of this type are used, as a rule, to form elements that have a production purpose.

Description

It is enough to look at Russian-made metal, and the principle of its operation becomes immediately clear. The central part of the device is enclosed in a sanding belt. It is a work surface used to bring workpieces to the desired shape. The belt can be different, its characteristics are determined by the amount of abrasive and grain size. The quality and intensity of processing depends on the latter parameter, and the abrasive element can be represented by diamond, silicon carbide or aluminum oxide. If necessary, this part is replaced by another.

for metal: characteristics

The choice of tape is of particular importance, since a poor-quality product or not corresponding to the materials used will complicate the processing and obtaining the desired result. The maximum smoothness of the workpiece is ensured by the removal of a thin surface layer using abrasive spraying. It is enough to choose a suitable tape - and the formation of a mirror surface will become possible.

Household combined belt grinders for metal have another main part - this is the working drive. The movement of the processing belt is carried out precisely by an electric motor built into the structure. Among the features of the equipment, it is worth noting the preservation of stability of operation under any operating conditions and carrying out the processing process with a constant belt speed.

The functionality of the tool is quite extensive, it can be varied using working built-in modules. This ensures the possibility of trimming, stripping and grinding workpieces. Various shapes can be processed, not only flat, but also non-standard. It is also worth noting the possibility of grinding rounded elements both from the outside and from the inside, and the processing of flat surfaces.

There are certain rules, the observance of which is necessary to ensure safe and high-quality work, the main of which are the following:

• Overheating can lead to a deterioration in the physical and mechanical characteristics of the workpiece, therefore, throughout all stages, constant control of the heating of the material is required.
• The tape should be stored under suitable conditions with stable temperature and moderate humidity.

Advantages

Do-it-yourself metal is made quickly enough and has many advantages, it is worth noting some of them:

• Possibility of adding optional elements for various purposes.
• The work process is characterized by a minimum level of vibration and noise, which greatly simplifies the task of the craftsmen.
• Intuitive operation, so beginners need a minimum amount of time to master the equipment and increase productivity.
• No need for service. All parts can be repaired or replaced in-house.
• The finest processing of metal and alloy products is carried out due to the high speed of rotation of the belt.

What you need to know

Choosing a belt sander for metal, you should pay special attention to the technical characteristics. The width can be different, this parameter is indicated in the numeric code. There is equipment that has a two-speed mode of operation. Its main advantage is the ability to process stainless steel and non-ferrous metal products.

Selection of materials and tools

The band machine for metal is an indispensable equipment for any workshop, due to the ability to process various products. But high-quality devices that are presented in stores are quite expensive, which is why many people prefer to make them on their own. A similar tool can be made at home using a jigsaw, grinder and drill. Also, the help of a turner will not be superfluous.

There are many varieties, suitable for different types of processing, they can be of any size and several rollers. Most of them are intended for vertical processing. Despite this, a multifunctional belt sander for metal, capable of working in two planes, will be more useful and convenient. Thanks to this, it becomes possible to carry out almost all tasks, since the planes allow you to work with the workpiece at any pre-set angle.

Self-production

You can do it yourself using a minimum number of tools, it will have a base made of sheet metal. It is recommended to assemble using electric welding, which will simplify and speed up the work. It is also possible to use screws, but they reduce the strength of the finished structure and require a large number of holes to be drilled. The grinder will become indispensable when cutting plates.

It is better to entrust some details to a professional milling machine, for example, semicircular grooves on the elements that provide the platform rotation. For self-cutting, you will need a drill, drill, files and cutters.

The optimal material for the manufacture of rollers is duralumin and titanium; in the absence of blanks from the required material, you can use standard steel. At the same time, the creation of a large roller located on a pulley and receiving thrust from the engine is possible only from steel, since it is almost impossible to find a workpiece of this size made of titanium or duralumin.

Rollers

The roller should be equipped with bearing seats and a hollow structure to lighten the weight. It is worth noting that, after the belt sander for metal is assembled, all the rollers must be in the same line, non-observance of this rule will lead to frequent jumping off of the abrasive element.

The width of the rollers can be different, it is selected depending on the size of the abrasive belt, which can be purchased ready-made or glued on your own. Before proceeding with the manufacture of rollers, it is necessary to draw up a drawing, while the products should eventually acquire a barrel-shaped shape, which is necessary to prevent the tape from sliding off the surface during operation.

The outside of the rollers must be free of roughness and burrs. It is not recommended to use open type bearings, as they will quickly fail due to the large amount of dust generated during processing. The best option would be high-quality parts made by reputable firms, since the rollers have a fairly high speed, especially for smaller parts.

Belt and tensioner

With their own hands, it is supplemented by an automatic belt tension produced by means of a spring with suitable elasticity. It should be noted that such equipment simplifies the operation of the tools, since there is no need to create a tensioning threaded element, and the process of replacing the tape requires a minimum number of steps. This is especially true for the processing of metal products, since the abrasive part must be constantly changed during grinding.

For the manufacture of tapes cannot be used on a paper basis, as it has insufficient strength. Gluing can be done in any convenient way, you need to use a special elastic glue, which is now presented in an extensive range, and reinforce the seam with a square made of high-quality, thin fabric glued from the inside. The gluing principle can be copied from any magazine belt designed for hand sanding tools.

A do-it-yourself belt sander is made without the participation of assistants and becomes more functional by creating an additional table next to the large motor pulley. The main thing is not to forget about the special connection of the switch, that is, with the help of it, the direction of rotation of the motor should be changed. It is worth noting that the pulley and belt rotate towards the table.

Engine

It is recommended to use a 220 volt electric motor with a power of 1.5 kW. When using a 380 volt unit, which requires a star or delta connection, as well as the use of capacitors, the power of the device will decrease by 30%. It is desirable that the engine be cantilevered and rotated sufficiently to ensure greater efficiency of the machine.

Peculiarities

After assembling all the elements, the metal belt sander can be operated both horizontally and vertically. Position change is performed with a minimum number of steps, which greatly simplifies the work. The equipment is effective not only for grinding metal surfaces, but also for cleaning welded seams on blanks made of sheet material. Particularly convenient when processing smaller items. It is not for nothing that such equipment has proven itself well in the field of knives production.

Despite the fact that the creation of a tool requires a sufficient amount of time, it will in any case be much cheaper than a proprietary machine and will have advanced functionality. It is recommended to use high-quality metal saws in the cutting process, you can also use a plasma cutter, which will significantly speed up the production of equipment.

Conclusion

The belt sander for metal has gained its popularity due to a wide range of works. Moreover, it can be equipped with additional elements to provide the necessary functions. It should be noted that even the simplest equipment is designed to perform tasks of varying complexity.

The choice of one or another option is made both in terms of technical parameters and functionality. The most widespread are devices with an extended list of characteristics. The modern range of equipment for processing metal products allows you to choose the right tool with the desired functions.

Hand-held power tools at the moment have become widespread, which no master craftsman can do without them. However, sometimes this toolkit is not enough, and there is a need for serious equipment for your workshop. So, in my practice, a period came when a belt sander became necessary, which would allow processing the surfaces of large parts.

Industrial models of grinding machines are too expensive. So I had to come up with something myself. An ordinary hand-held belt machine, in which a continuous sanding belt moves along the rectilinear surface of the sole with the abrasive side outward, seemed to me the ideal constructive prototype of a home-made machine. Naturally, my machine will turn out to be much larger, and it will be installed permanently.

It so happened that I needed to process a large number of parts about two meters long. This determined the dimensions of the table and the future machine itself. (photo 1).

The electric motor did not have to be chosen. I installed a 2.5-3.0 kW motor I have on the machine with a speed of 1500 rpm. If the belt speed is chosen to be about 20 m / s, then the drum diameter should be close to 200 mm. Thus, it turned out that at the speed of our engine, a gearbox is not required for the machine.

Of the two drums, one plays the role of the lead. It must sit rigidly on the motor shaft, and the other - tensioner - rotate freely on bearings around a fixed axis. To adjust the belt tension, it is enough to shift this axis along the working table in one direction or another. (photo 2)... I built the table from thick pine logs, but now I think it should have been made of sheet metal. "

It is quite obvious that the distance between the shafts and the length of the sanding belt depend on the length of the table. The size of the entire platform, on which the machine parts are mounted (an electric motor with a driving drum, a working table, a driven drum with a tensioner), is also decisive. On the side of the driven drum, the table must have a bevel (photo 3)... providing a smooth touch of the tape (especially its glued joint) to the surface of the desktop.

Make Lead Sanding Belt (photo 4) and tension (photo 5) drums can be made of chipboard. To do this, it is enough to saw billets with dimensions of 200x200 mm from the slab and assemble a package of 240 mm from them. Square tiles - each separately or (if the lathe allows) together, folding the workpieces on the axis, - grind to a diameter of 200 mm. The latter option is preferable, since the drum can be made in one setup. It should be borne in mind that the diameter of the drum in the center should be 2-3 mm larger than at the edges. It is known that with this surface geometry, the flexible tape will hold in the middle of the drum. In my opinion, the optimal belt width is 200 mm. 5 of these tapes can be easily glued from one roll of 1 m wide emery cloth.

If at the very beginning I expected to process exclusively wooden blanks (photo 6-10), then in the process of operation, he opened and additionally quickly and efficiently sharpened special tools, for example, various profile full-assembly cutters.

It turned out that the longer the working table, the more opportunities for imagination when choosing a technological method for processing a product. Personally, I had to work with a belt of about 4.5 m, while the length of the processed parts reached 2 m. This does not mean that the length of the workpieces cannot be even greater. Under certain conditions, the length of the workpieces to be ground may not matter. If they are narrow, then any of them are the capabilities of the machine. Now I do not need to go to specialized workshops for sharpening cutting tools: planers, jointers, planers and others. (photo 11-13)... The quality of sharpening axes (photo 14), knives, chisels and various chisels, I could not achieve before on any universal grinding equipment. And if you remove the wooden table and make it out of iron, then it will be easy, you can put it on an abrasive belt (photo 15). But when the length of the workpiece is equal to or less than the length of the table, it is much easier to achieve perfect grinding of the entire surface than when moving a large workpiece.

The belt is used in cases where it is necessary to perform finishing of parts, that is, as equipment for the implementation of finishing technological operations. Most often, such machines are used in the furniture industry, with their help, they process parts made from wood of various species. But a belt sander can also be used for processing metal parts, for which a belt with an appropriate abrasive material is used.

Applications of the machine

The main tasks that the belt machine of the grinding group performs are: final leveling of the processed surface, bringing the surface roughness to the required level, bringing the processed surfaces to the level of smoothness before they are coated with varnish and other finishing materials. Also, a tape machine is used to eliminate minor defects in the processed surface: depressions, elevations and burrs, finishing treatment: removing slugs of primer and varnish, burr, grinding internal surfaces, processing curves on the surface of a part.

A factory-made version, the drawings of which can be used to create a similar home-made device.

The band machine can be used to process parts made of various materials: wood, simple and non-ferrous metals. What is convenient, you can process parts with a band machine that have different shapes: quadrangular, round and flat. With the help of such equipment, it is possible to process round and tubular parts with a large diameter of their cross-section.

Design features of the machine

The working tool of any tape is a tape on the surface of which an abrasive powder is applied. It is made in the form of a ring and is placed between two rotating drums, one of which is the master and the second is the slave.

Rotation to the drive shaft of the band machine is transmitted from an electric motor, which is connected to it by means of a belt drive. The speed of the belt mechanism can be adjusted, thereby changing the modes of processing parts. The belt of a surface grinding machine can be positioned horizontally or vertically, as well as at a certain angle, which is allowed by some models of equipment in this category.

When choosing a model of a belt sander for processing a particular part, it is important to take into account the length of the surface that needs to be sanded. It is much more convenient to process parts on such machines, the surface length of which is less than the length of the abrasive belt and the working table. If these conditions are met, the processing quality will be much higher.

A belt sander can have various designs: with a movable and fixed working table, with a free belt. Wide-belt equipment belongs to a separate category, the peculiarity of which is that their working table, which is at the same time a feeding element, is made in the form of a caterpillar. In those models of equipment in the design of which a work table is provided, the abrasive belt is located in a horizontal plane, and in equipment with a free belt, in which a work table is not provided, it can have a different spatial position.

An indispensable structural element of any belt sander, including a table-top one, is an exhaust device, which is necessary to remove dust generated in large quantities during processing. Whether professional or any homemade sander used in a home workshop or garage is powered by an electric motor.

Principle of operation

The main parameters of the belt sander are the feed rate and the force with which the belt is pressed against the workpiece. Parameters such as the degree of graininess of the abrasive belt should be selected depending on what material the workpiece is made of, as well as on the degree of roughness that the surface of the workpiece should have.

The characteristics of the material to be processed, in particular its hardness, primarily affect the grain size with which an abrasive belt should be selected. The processing modes, which are directly related to each other, are feed rate and belt clamping force. So, if you grind at high speed, but with a slight pressure of the abrasive belt, then some parts of the surface of the part may be untreated. If, on the contrary, you increase the clamping force and reduce the feed rate, you may encounter the fact that burn-through and blackening of the material may appear in certain areas of the treated surface.

Another variation of the machine is a view from the side of the working surface of the belt

The sanding results are also influenced by how well the abrasive belt is glued. To get a high quality finish and not to encounter malfunctions in the operation of the belt machine, you should not use abrasive belts that are not glued correctly or have torn edges. When putting the tape on the shafts of the equipment, it should be positioned so that the overlapping end of the seam does not lift up against the surface of the workpiece, but slips along it. Learn more about gluing tape in the video below.

Anyone, including a hand-held grinding machine, must provide for the possibility of adjusting the belt tension, which is ensured by moving the movable shaft, which is not a drive shaft. Belt tension is a very important parameter, when choosing which one should be guided by the “golden mean” rule. If the belt of the grinding machine is pulled too tight, it can lead to its breaking during operation, and too weak belt tension causes slippage and, as a result, its excessive heating. The main characteristic for determining the degree of belt tension is its deflection arrow, which is measured by lightly pressing on its surface in a taut state.

The manual belt machine of the grinding group can be operated by one operator, who moves the working table with the workpiece and turns it so that all parts of its surface are brought under the abrasive belt.

How to make a belt sander

Many home craftsmen and professionals are wondering how to make a grinding machine with their own hands. The reason for this question is quite simple: the high cost of serial grinding equipment, which, with irregular use, not everyone can afford. In order to make such equipment, you will need several basic components: an electric motor, rollers and a reliable bed. Naturally, drawings of such a device or its photo will not be superfluous. Also, at the end of the article, you can watch videos on assembling a band machine on your own.

The motor for belt sander is easy to find and can be removed from a used washing machine. The bed will have to be made independently, for this you can use a sheet of metal with dimensions of 500x180x20 mm. One side of the frame should be cut very evenly, since it will be necessary to attach a platform to it, on which the electric motor will be mounted. The platform for the electric motor should also be made of a sheet of metal with dimensions of 180x160x10 mm. Such a platform must be fixed to the bed very securely with a few bolts.

Another version of the bed

The efficiency of a belt sander directly depends on the characteristics of the electric motor that is installed on it. If you are going to make a grinding machine with your own hands, then an electric motor with a power of 2.5-3 kW, which develops about 1500 rpm, is quite suitable for you. In order for the sanding belt to move at a speed of 20 m / s when using such a motor, the drums must have a diameter of the order of 200 mm. What is convenient, if you choose a motor with such characteristics, then you do not need to make a gearbox for your grinding machine.

The drive shaft is directly connected to the motor shaft, and the second, the driven shaft, must rotate freely on the axis, which is installed in the bearing assemblies. In order for the abrasive belt to touch the surface of the workpiece more smoothly, the section of the bed on which the driven shaft is installed should be made with a slight bevel.

It is possible to make shafts for a belt sander with minimal financial costs from a chipboard plate. Just cut square billets 200x200 mm in size from such a plate, drill central holes in them and put them on the axle with a package with a total thickness of 240 mm. After that, you just have to grind the resulting package and make a round shaft with a diameter of about 200 mm out of it.

Drawings and detailed analysis of some parts of the machine made of wood.

Wood belt sander (click to enlarge)

Table Tilt Adjustment Mechanism Plate Block Belt Tensioner Machine Assembly

When the work with the wooden surface comes to an end, the stage of finishing sanding begins. To grind without burrs, scratches, and nicely round off sharp corners of any part, you need to use a wood sander. This tool will help to perform professional grinding, even for a beginner who first took the device in hand. If you wish, you can make a sander yourself, using only available tools.

The industry produces several types of machines that differ both structurally and in purpose. Here are the main ones:

• Eccentric or orbital, in this case the sole of the instrument simultaneously rotates around its axis and in a certain orbit. It turns out that each time it passes in a slightly different place, so scratches and burrs are rubbed down more and more with each pass.

• Vibration model. Here the work sole performs reciprocating movements with a frequency of about 20,000 movements per minute. It is due to these movements that grinding occurs.
• Angle grinder, which is popularly called "grinder". With the help of this tool, rough processing of parts, large logs, etc. is carried out. For processing, abrasive wheels of the required grain size are used.
• Belt sander that is usually used for working on large surfaces. Structurally, it consists of rollers driven by an electric motor, on which an emery tape is put on.

Making a belt sander with your own hands + (Video)

It is not at all difficult to make a belt sander yourself, you must complete the following steps:

• select suitable materials and parts;
• make a solid foundation for fixing the tool;
• install a suitable countertop;
• fix the vertical struts with a tensioner and a drum;
• mount the motor and drums;
• fasten the sanding tape.

To process fairly large parts and elements, it is necessary to make a large copy of a serial grinder. For example, if you take an electric motor with a power of 2 kW or more powerful with a rotor speed of 1500 rpm, then the gearbox can be omitted. The power of such an engine is quite enough to rotate a drum about 20 cm in diameter and process parts about 2 m.

You can also use an electric motor from an old washing machine. In this case, the frame is made of a thick sheet of iron, preparing a place for installing the motor and carefully fixing it with bolts to eliminate vibration. The design of such a machine is 2 drums, and one of them is fixed, and the second can be pulled and rotated on bearings around an axis. It is advisable to make the base for the machine from metal or several sheets of thick plywood. Drums are made on a lathe from chipboard. The tape is cut from sandpaper sheets with a width of about 20 cm and fixed on the bed. The larger the size of the table, the larger the parts can be stacked and processed in the future. Drawings of finished products can be found online.

https://youtu.be/vDs1gBM_MW4

We make a grinder from a grinder

Many may say that the "grinder" is the same is an angle grinder, but there are some subtleties hidden here. It should be borne in mind that angle grinders have very high revs and often quite a decent weight. To polish the surface with a grinder, you must have considerable experience in this matter and use special polishing discs and wheels. The sander has a much lower engine speed and weight. To work with a factory grinder, no specific experience and dexterity are required.

It is possible to independently make a good grinder out of a grinder, which is not inferior in its parameters to a factory machine, only by modifying its electrical circuit, by mounting the regulator at lower speeds and by using special grinding attachments.

Making a grinder from a drill

To turn an ordinary, household electric drill into a grinder, you need to equip it with a special attachment - a working drum or a special support plate, depending on the task at hand.

The backing or sanding pad is a plastic or rubber base with sandpaper glued on and a shank for clamping into a drill chuck. Trays with a flexible shaft are suitable for work with a loose drill, while with a rigid one it is better to use only for a well-fixed drill.

Grinding drums for household drills are structurally a conventional cylinder, a shank and sandpaper glued to the cylinder. When using drums, the working surface of the grinder is parallel to the axis of rotation.

Making an orbital sander

Currently, making an orbital machine with your own hands is possible only from a broken orbital machine. This is due to the complex device for rotating the working disk, which is quite problematic to repeat on your own. It should also be borne in mind that a machine made by a specialized company will not cost too much, and it will be very difficult and time-consuming to make it with your own hands.

Making a grinder from a computer hard drive + (Video)

Any old hard drive can be converted into a miniature sander. To do this, follow these steps:

• completely disassemble the hard drive and remove from the case everything that is located to the left of the magnetic disks;
• cut out the working circle from sandpaper, make a hole in the center of the circle for the spindle;
• stick several strips of double-sided tape on the rotating disk of the hard drive and fix sandpaper on it;
• make a protective screen that protects the eyes from the possible departure of the manufactured emery disc;
• connect the finished structure to the power supply from the computer and use.

Of course, this design does not have high power, but it is quite possible to sharpen a small knife or scissors.

Grinding machines from the manufacturer are expensive and therefore if they are used infrequently, then you involuntarily wonder whether to buy it or not.

And if, in addition, there is no free money available, then you have to make something with your own hands. So it happened with this homemade grinding machine.

The simplest hand sander was taken as a sample (read how to choose an eccentric sander). In such a grinder, the abrasive belt moves along the surface of the sole, with the rough side outward (abrasive).

That is, in the future belt sander I laid down the same principles in advance, changing only the dimensions in the plans - I need a large machine so that it can be used to grind parts of at least 1.9-2 meters on it, and must be installed permanently.

The whole design of the grinding machine is based on an electric motor with a power of 2.8 kilowatts and a speed of 1500, I already had one, so I didn't have to buy anything.

The gearbox did not have to be installed, because with an electric motor of such power, in order to reach the normal belt speed (which will be quite enough for grinding) of 20 meters per second, the drum diameter should be only about 20 centimeters.

There are 2 drums in the design: one, which is rigidly fixed on the shaft, is the driving one. The second is a tension one, it rotates around an axis on bearings.

To tighten or loosen the sanding belt, it is enough to adjust this axis to any of the 2 sides.

The machine table is made of thick boards, if possible in the future I will redo it and make it out of metal sheets.

The length of the working part of the machine, as well as the belt itself for grinding, depends, first of all, on the length of the working surface of the table. The second shaft is equipped with a bevel, as shown in photo # 3, this is necessary in order to ensure the smoothest possible touch of the tape to the edge of the table.

Both drums can be made from ordinary chipboard. To do this, cut square tiles 20 by 20 centimeters and assemble a workpiece of 24 cm from them and then grind them to a diameter of 20 centimeters on a current machine. When making a drum, take into account the fact that the tape will stick to it better if it is a couple of millimeters larger in diameter at its center.

About the sanding belt. Through trial and error in practice, I have established that the best sanding belt width is 20 centimeters - with this width, you can complete all the tasks facing the machine and, moreover, cut 5 such belts from a meter roll of sandpaper, without any residue.

In addition to grinding wooden parts, for which it was originally intended, on such a homemade machine it is very convenient and quick to sharpen any tools with cutting surfaces - knives, chisels, axes, knives, secateurs, etc. The sharpening quality is excellent.

In principle, if the design provides for the manufacture of a table not from wood, but from metal, then more complex, special tools can be sharpened, which no universal device can handle.

I emphasize once again - in this machine, a lot depends on the length of the table. It is she who gives you scope for opportunities, because when the part is less than the length of the working surface of the machine, it is much more convenient to process it and the processing will be of higher quality. For example, with a sanding belt length of four and a half meters, you can easily process wood pieces 200 cm long.

Another plus of such a do-it-yourself grinding machine is that with some skill, you can also work with parts that have curved surfaces (as shown in photo 16) - for this, it is enough to remove the wooden table and, putting the workpiece on the bed, grind the part the back, underside of the working belt.

DIY belt sander: photo

Below are other entries on the topic "How to do it yourself - a householder!"

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Woodworking is a highly efficient machine for processing material planes. Using such units, you can quickly and efficiently process wood, getting perfectly flat surfaces.

Classification

The wood sander is used at the final stage of wood processing. In the course of work, special rough circles, tapes, powdery pastes are used.

Currently, based on the purpose, the following units are distinguished:

• Circular grinding automatic devices.
• Devices designed for processing the internal surfaces of parts and workpieces.
• Surface grinding machines.
• Specialized models that are used to implement highly targeted tasks.

Applications

The areas in which a wood sander can be used are extremely varied. The latest advances in the field of carpentry processing of parts make it possible to replace large turning units with more convenient mobile devices in operation.

Common solutions such as a drum and belt sander for wood can be successfully used for:

• Rough rough grinding of workpiece surfaces.
• Precise processing of wood surfaces.
• Obtaining refined surfaces.
• Cleaning bar and panel parts, their side and end edges.
• Intermediate sanding of paints and varnishes.

Due to the wide range of operation, the wood grinding machine is one of the most demanded units among professional carpenters. Manufacturers are constantly improving popular models and offer the consumer a whole host of additional tools for performing complex, specific tasks.

How to assemble a wood sander with your own hands

We propose to consider the features of self-assembly of a drum device for processing the outer surface of wood. This will require several functional structural elements. Some of them can be found in the household.

Engine

The easiest way to assemble a wood sander is to remove the engine from your old washing machine. Fortunately, Soviet-made models are gathering dust idle in many closets. From here you can also take belts, pulleys and electrical parts.

However, for the assembly of the grinding unit, any motor with a power of 200 to 300 W is suitable. It is desirable that its design be compact in size.

If you need to obtain maximum efficiency indicators, you will have to find an asynchronous motor capable of delivering 1500-3000 revolutions.

Drum

This structural element can be made using all sorts of remnants of building materials. Sometimes, in order to assemble a drum sander for wood, it is enough to take a pipe covered with old linoleum, rubber rings glued together or cylindrical bars fixed on a metal axis. Let's take a look at the first of these options.

To make a drum, it is enough to use a piece of PVC pipe, a metal rod, a solid board, screws, glue and linoleum. Plugs are cut out of wood, corresponding to the section of the existing tube, in which holes are drilled for the rod. Such locking elements are inserted into the pipe and secured with screws.

A metal rod is passed through the plugs and sits on the epoxy adhesive. A layer of dense linoleum is glued on top of the PVC pipe. Alternatively, you can use rough rubber. Such a shell will act as the basis for securing the sandpaper. You can fix the latter on the finished drum using double-sided tape or staple staples.

Frame

To make a case where a homemade wood sander will be placed, ordinary plywood will do. You can make a design of a rather unassuming structure. It is enough to install side panels, work table and additional reinforcement struts. If desired, a metal sheath can be made.

Mounting

The motor is securely anchored to a static-mounted base. The torsion pin is threaded through a previously prepared hole in the wall of the housing. The grinding drum is installed in the upper part and rests on bearings in cages, which are fixed on the side walls of the structure.

Pulleys are attached to the axis of the drum and engine. The drive belt is tightened. Wiring and switches are connected. Clamping bolts are screwed in on the sides of the body, and adjusting bolts in the lower part of it.

To give the structure a complete and attractive look, you can paint the surfaces. Naturally, it is necessary to take on such work before assembling and installing the unit. To increase the safety during the operation of the device, the design can be supplemented with a protective casing located above the drum.

Finally

Thus, we tried to consider the main classes of grinding machines, their areas of application, and also gave an example of self-assembly of a drum-type unit. Ultimately, the decision to buy a factory-made device or assemble it from available materials depends on the budget, the goals set, the funds available, and the needs of each individual user.

When the work with the wooden surface comes to an end, the stage of finishing sanding begins. To grind without burrs, scratches, and nicely round off sharp corners of any part, you need to use a wood sander. This tool will help to perform professional grinding, even for a beginner who first took the device in hand. If you wish, you can make a sander yourself, using only available tools.

The industry produces several types of machines that differ both structurally and in purpose. Here are the main ones:

• Eccentric or orbital, in this case the sole of the instrument simultaneously rotates around its axis and in a certain orbit. It turns out that each time it passes in a slightly different place, so scratches and burrs are rubbed down more and more with each pass.

• Vibration model. Here the work sole performs reciprocating movements with a frequency of about 20,000 movements per minute. It is due to these movements that grinding occurs.
• Angle grinder, which is popularly called "grinder". With the help of this tool, rough processing of parts, large logs, etc. is carried out. For processing, abrasive wheels of the required grain size are used.
• Belt sander that is usually used for working on large surfaces. Structurally, it consists of rollers driven by an electric motor, on which an emery tape is put on.

Making a belt sander with your own hands + (Video)

It is not at all difficult to make a belt sander yourself, you must complete the following steps:

• select suitable materials and parts;
• make a solid foundation for fixing the tool;
• install a suitable countertop;
• fix the vertical struts with a tensioner and a drum;
• mount the motor and drums;
• fasten the sanding tape.

To process fairly large parts and elements, it is necessary to make a large copy of a serial grinder. For example, if you take an electric motor with a power of 2 kW or more powerful with a rotor speed of 1500 rpm, then the gearbox can be omitted. The power of such an engine is quite enough to rotate a drum about 20 cm in diameter and process parts about 2 m.

You can also use an electric motor from an old washing machine. In this case, the frame is made of a thick sheet of iron, preparing a place for installing the motor and carefully fixing it with bolts to eliminate vibration. The design of such a machine is 2 drums, and one of them is fixed, and the second can be pulled and rotated on bearings around an axis. It is advisable to make the base for the machine from metal or several sheets of thick plywood. Drums are made on a lathe from chipboard. The tape is cut from sandpaper sheets with a width of about 20 cm and fixed on the bed. The larger the size of the table, the larger the parts can be stacked and processed in the future. Drawings of finished products can be found online.

https://youtu.be/vDs1gBM_MW4

We make a grinder from a grinder

Many may say that the "grinder" is the same is an angle grinder, but there are some subtleties hidden here. It should be borne in mind that angle grinders have very high revs and often quite a decent weight. To polish the surface with a grinder, you must have considerable experience in this matter and use special polishing discs and wheels. The sander has a much lower engine speed and weight. To work with a factory grinder, no specific experience and dexterity are required.

It is possible to independently make a good grinder out of a grinder, which is not inferior in its parameters to a factory machine, only by modifying its electrical circuit, by mounting the regulator at lower speeds and by using special grinding nozzles.

Making a grinder from a drill

To turn an ordinary, household electric drill into a grinder, you need to equip it with a special attachment - a working drum or a special support plate, depending on the task at hand.

The backing or sanding pad is a plastic or rubber base with sandpaper glued on and a shank for clamping into a drill chuck. Trays with a flexible shaft are suitable for work with a loose drill, while with a rigid one it is better to use only for a well-fixed drill.

Grinding drums for household drills are structurally a conventional cylinder, a shank and sandpaper glued to the cylinder. When using drums, the working surface of the grinder is parallel to the axis of rotation.

Making an orbital sander

Currently, making an orbital machine with your own hands is possible only from a broken orbital machine. This is due to the complex device for rotating the working disk, which is quite problematic to repeat on your own. It should also be borne in mind that a machine made by a specialized company will not cost too much, and it will be very difficult and time-consuming to make it with your own hands.

Making a grinder from a computer hard drive + (Video)

Any old hard drive can be converted into a miniature sander. To do this, follow these steps:

• completely disassemble the hard drive and remove from the case everything that is located to the left of the magnetic disks;
• cut out the working circle from sandpaper, make a hole in the center of the circle for the spindle;
• stick several strips of double-sided tape on the rotating disk of the hard drive and fix sandpaper on it;
• make a protective screen that protects the eyes from the possible departure of the manufactured emery disc;
• connect the finished structure to the power supply from the computer and use.

Of course, this design does not have high power, but it is quite possible to sharpen a small knife or scissors.

I have been making knives for several years now, and I always use 2.5 x 60 cm and 10 x 90 cm belt sanders in my business. For a long time, I wanted to buy another one, with a tape width of 5 cm, as this would simplify my work. Since such a purchase would be an invoice, I decided to make it myself.

Problems in the design of the future machine:
There were three limitations to overcome. Firstly, there was no tape 10 cm wide locally; it could only be ordered online. For me, this option seemed not very acceptable, since there is no greater disappointment than finding out that the tape is worn out and needs to be replaced, and you have to wait a week or two for a new one to arrive. Secondly, there was a problem with the rollers. I have searched but could not find any suitable tape for 10 cm. Third, the motor. A belt sander needs a fairly powerful electric motor, and I didn't want to overspend on this project. The best option for me was to use a used motor.

Solutions to design problems:
The first ribbon problem found a simple solution. Since the 20 x 90 cm belt was readily available in hardware stores at a fair price, I could make two 10 cm belts out of it. This put a size limit on my machine, but due to cost efficiency this was the best option. The second problem was solved with a lathe. To do this, I watched the video on the Internet, and realized that I could make the videos I needed myself. The problem with the motor was more difficult. I had several electric motors in the garage, but for some reason I had to abandon them. Finally, I settled on an old tile cutter that had a 6 amp electric motor. At that time, I realized that this power may not be enough. But since the work was at the experimental stage, I decided to first achieve a working version of the machine, and the motor could be replaced later. In fact, the motor is suitable for a small amount of work. But if you're going to grind it harder, I would recommend a 12 amp minimum.

Tools and materials

Instruments:

• Angle grinder with cut-off discs.
• Drill and drills.
• Wrenches for 11, 12 and 19.
• Lathe.
• Vise.

Materials:

• Electric motor (minimum 6 A, or recommended 12 A).
• Various bearings.
• Nuts, bolts, washers, lock washers in various sizes.
• Metal corner.
• Sanding belt 20 cm.
• 10 cm pulleys.
• Powerful spring.
• Steel bar 4 x 20 cm.
• Beam 2.5 x 10 x 10 cm made of wood or MDF.

Electric motor for the machine

I had several motors to choose from, but the electric motor on the tile cutter had a better housing. To some extent, working on the machine was like an experiment, because I was not sure about the sufficient power of the motor. Therefore, I settled on a modular solution with a frame for the belt mechanism as a single element, which can be removed and repositioned on a more powerful base. The speed of rotation of the motor was fine with me, but I was worried that 6 A would give weak power. After a little test, I saw that this electric motor was suitable for simple operation, but for more intensive work, you need to choose something more powerful. When designing your machine, pay attention to this point.

As I mentioned, the motor cover was very suitable as it allowed for a vertical machine that was easy to move.

First you need to free it by removing the work table, saw, protection, water pan, leaving only the electric motor. Another advantage of using this motor was a threaded core with a nut to hold the saw in place, which allowed the pulley to be installed without using a key (I will explain what a key is later).

Since I had a too wide pulley, I decided to use the large pressure washers that usually hold the saw, flipping one side up so that there is a wedge-shaped groove between them. I found that the space between them was too narrow, and in order to expand it, I put a lock washer between them. The advantage with this method is that the pressure washers have a flat edge that locks into place with a flat edge for simultaneous rotation with the core.

Belt

The drive belt I used was 7 x 500 mm. A standard 12mm can be used, but the thinner is more flexible and will put less stress on the motor. He doesn't need to rotate the grinding wheel.

Belt sander device

The device is simple. The electric motor drives the belt, which rotates the 10 x 5 cm “main” pulley, which drives the abrasive belt. Another 8 x 5 cm pulley is located 40 cm above the main one and 15 cm behind it and is mounted on a bearing. A third 8 x 5 cm pulley rotates on a lever and acts as a tension roller, holding the abrasive belt tightly. On the other side, the lever is spring attached to the frame.

Determining the type of drive

The main issue was to rotate the main pulley directly with an electric motor or with an additional pulley and drive belt. First of all, I chose the belt drive because I wanted to be able to replace the engine with a more powerful one, however, there was another reason. When you do intensive metalworking, there is a risk of encountering some problems. The belt drive will slip in such cases, while the direct drive will create big problems. With a strap, the device will be more secure.

Frame fabrication and installation

It is important to mention that using a metal corner as a frame can have both advantages and disadvantages. The obvious advantage is that it is easy to assemble, like a constructor in childhood. But the main drawback is that it is strong only in two directions, but weak when twisted. So, you need to take this weakness into account and calculate how much torque can be transmitted from the pulleys to the frame, and compensate for it with the help of additional jumpers.

Cutting:
You can use a hacksaw to cut the angle, but an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel will do the job faster. After cutting off all the elements, I would recommend sanding all of their sharp edges so as not to cut during assembly. The holes can be drilled with a conventional drill and cutting fluid.

Main roller

The main roller is the most important part of the project as it receives the torque from the motor and transfers it to the belt. I used an old bushing to secure it, but I recommend using a bearing instead. The bushings do their job, but they constantly overheat and require regular lubrication. What's more, they can scatter dirty grease, which is annoying during operation.

Shaft:
On the sides of the shaft there are threads with different directions so that the fastening bolts do not loosen during rotation. If you cut off one threaded side like I did, leave the one that goes counterclockwise, otherwise you will have to make a safety bolt (I will describe how to do it later) and a cotter pin. The main pulley will slide over the cut edge.

Pulley:
Continuing with the topic of reuse, I found an old pulley from another project. Unfortunately, I prepared it for the threaded pin, on which it was supposed to be held, but, in fact, this is not a problem. I made a rectangular cutout in this pulley. Then, using an angle grinder, I cut a groove on the end of the shaft. By placing the key in the hole formed by the shaft groove and the rectangular notch of the pulley, I securely locked them against each other.

Making rollers for a grinding machine

I made the rollers from several 2.5 cm thick pieces of hardwood. But you can use MDF, plywood or other material. When laying the layers, it is necessary to do so that the fibers are perpendicular, this will give the rollers additional strength and the layers will not split.

There are three rollers to be made: the main roller, the top roller, and the idler roller. The main roller is made of two 13 x 13 cm pieces of 2.5 cm thick.The top and tension rollers are made of two 10 x 10 cm pieces of wood.

Process:
Begin by gluing pairs of 13cm and 10cm pieces of wood, holding them together with clamps. After the glue dries, cut the corners with a miter saw, then locate the center of each piece. Fix them in a lathe and work until they are 5 x 10 cm and 5 x 8 cm.

Upper and tension rollers:
Next, you need to install the bearings in 5 x 8 cm rollers. Choose a core drill or a feather drill, and drill a recess in the center to the width of the bearing. The inner ring of the bearing must rotate freely, so a hole must be drilled through the roller through the inner ring of the bearing. This will allow the bolt to pass through with a minimum hole.

Main video:
This detail is done a little differently. There are no bearings on it, however, if the shaft comes out of the roller by less than 5 cm, you will need to grind the roller widthwise. Measure the shaft diameter and drill the same hole in the center of the roller. Try to insert the shaft, it must hold tight, otherwise the roller will shake.

Bolting the rollers

Next, fasten the two halves of the rollers with bolts, do not rely only on glue. Remember that the heads of the bolts must be sunk into the wood as the roller rotates in close proximity to the frame.

Tension lever

The lever is made of a 10 x 30 x 200 mm metal strip with rounded edges. It requires fairly large holes to be drilled, so I recommend using a drilling machine and a lot of lubricant for this. You will need 4 holes in total. The first is at the pivot point. It is not located in the center of the plank, but 8 cm from its edge. The second hole will be on the edge closest to the pivot point. It will serve to hold the spring. Two additional holes must be drilled at the opposite end, approximately 5 cm apart. They should be slightly wider in diameter as they will be used for the setup, which I will discuss later.

When all holes are made, you can attach the shoulder to the vertical angle between the top roller and the base. The end where the spring will be attached is directed towards the main roller. It should rotate freely, so I recommend using two nuts for fastening, not tightening the main one completely, but using the second as a locknut.

Installing the rollers

The upper roller is fixed statically, and must be clearly in the same plane with the tension roller and the main roller. You can do everything by eye, but I recommend checking everything well with the level. A washer can be added to align the roller, or, if it is not enough, a bolt. They are inserted between the frame and the roller.

It is not necessary to completely install the idler pulley. We still need to make a stabilizing device.

Stabilize the tape

Wear on the rollers or uneven surfaces can cause the abrasive belt to gradually come off during operation. The stabilizer is a device on the idler roller that allows it to be angled to keep the abrasive belt centered. Its design is much simpler than it looks, and consists of a fixing bolt, a bit of idle roller free play and an adjusting bolt.

Drilling bolt holes:
For this purpose, I made a device in the form of a wedge-shaped cutout in the board, which will help hold the bolt in place at the time of drilling. You can do it manually too, but I don't recommend it.

Fixing bolt

The fixing bolt is a simple bolt with a hole drilled into it, and which is installed on the bar through a wide hole that is closer to the pivot point of the lever. Since it is located between the lever and the roller, its head must be ground off so that the roller does not catch on it. The bolt must be fixed as shown in the figure.

The bolt on which the roller is attached

It needs to be slightly loosened so that the tensioner roller has a slight play. But so that it does not unwind, you need to make a castellated nut. To do this, you just need to make cuts on the edges of a regular nut so that it looks like a crown. The bolt itself will have two drilled holes: one for the adjusting bolt and it will be lined up with the hole in the retaining bolt, and one for securing the castle nut with a cotter pin.

Adjustment bolt:
Once the idler pulley is in place, an adjusting bolt can be installed, which will pass through the holes in the fixing bolt and the bolt on which the idler rotates. The system works when you tighten the adjusting bolt, forcing the idler roller's pivot to move the angle of rotation outward, thus forcing the belt closer to the mechanism. A spring at the other end of the arm adjusts the tension in the opposite direction. I recommend securing the adjusting bolt with a locknut as vibration can weaken it.

Note: It is possible to add a spring to the back of the idler roller, but I have not found any reason why this is worth doing. A small advantage is that this way the roller will have less backlash. But I will add that I did not do this, and I did not have any problems.

Completing the work on making the machine with your own hands

When everything is done, you need to check all the bolts again, and make sure that the stabilization mechanism is assembled correctly. Then you have to turn on the fixture for the first time, which can be scary. It's like driving a car where the steering wheel and transmission don't work. I recommend turning the motor on and off for a very short time to prevent the machine from turning at full speed.

In fact, the hardest part for me was setting up the spring. If it pulls too much, then the tape will not be able to rotate ... Too weak - and it is impossible to hold it, it flies off, which in itself is dangerous.

Ready!

That's all. You should have a decent medium power belt sander that can be converted to a more powerful one if you want.

I hope you enjoyed this master class. Thank you for the attention.

Needing a grinder for periodic woodworking and not wanting to spend money on professional equipment, you can independently assemble a power tool using the materials at hand, as in this project.

Materials (edit)

To make a do-it-yourself grinder you will need:

• suitable electric motor;
• fasteners;
• grinding disc;
• pieces of plywood;
• sandpaper;
• drill;
• saw;
• roulette.

In this project, the tool was based on an old electric motor from an air compressor. It is powerful enough to make the finished product perform as well as dedicated wood processing equipment.

Step 1... Be sure to attach the purchased grinding disc to the existing engine. This will help you determine the dimensions of the motor pedestal.

After carefully making calculations, assemble the base from boards or pieces of plywood. Be sure to attach the motor to it.

Step 2... Cut out the base for the disc from plywood, carefully sand the edges of the cuts with sandpaper. Using the motor pulley, mark the holes in the center of the disc. Drill them with a drill, and bolt the pulley and the round plywood base together.

Step 3... In fact, the grinding tool is ready, you will need to fasten the disc itself to the plywood base, and you can work safely. Or, as in this project, you can assemble a box from the remnants of lumber so that the outwardly power tool looks nice, and also bring the start button of the tool to its front part. Before assembling the box, be sure to make careful calculations.

Work with the received tool should be extremely careful and in compliance with safety rules. The speed of rotation of the disk is high and the likelihood of grinding off your nails or injuring your hands during the processing of small parts is high.