Built several decades ago, they have already grown old and in the winter months they begin to let in the cold.
Errors when insulating a wooden house
That's why it is very important to exclude possible oversights, which regularly arise with unqualified thermal insulation of wooden modern materials. Let's take a look at the most common ones.
Mistake # 1. Thermal insulation of a log house without inspection of the condition of the wood
As a rule, already "old" log cabins are insulated. On the one hand, it is technologically convenient: the log house has finally settled down and the dimensions of the structure remain unchanged. However, the past years could not but leave traces on biologically living material -.
Therefore, before the planned insulation, which implies that there will be no access to the logs for many years, it is necessary carefully examine all crowns and discard defective fragments... If a wood-eating one is wound up in the logs, I will make a cautious assumption that it is no longer advisable to insulate the house. A cardinal medicine for such a case, except for a weekly forty-degree frost, has not yet been invented. Read more about this problem in the articles: Good wood should soak with fire-fighting and antiseptic composition and dry thoroughly... It is a mistake to carry out insulation on raw wood.
Mistake # 2. Lack of attention to caulking
Traditional caulking is performed, strictly speaking, not to insulate the log house, but to exclude blowing it, which ultimately affects the preservation of heat in the house.
Deciding to insulate log facades, pay attention to the condition of caulking on all crowns... This operation should not be dismissed. Perhaps it is thanks to 2-3 defects of this natural insulator that your house is cold in winter.
At the beginning of 2016, a reader contacted the editorial office with a request to help with insulation in a modern way. Word by word, it turned out that the cunning birds had long been pulling caulk fibers from its log house onto their nests.
It seems that after the clarification of this fact, the craving for total warming of our dear reader has somewhat weakened.
Without plunging into the basics of building heat engineering and without delving into the meaning of the obscure phrase "" (which is the basis for choosing a location), take the craft postulate on faith: insulation of structures is carried out from the outside. Such an installation improves the operation of both the wall bearing material (tree crowns) and the insulation itself. Otherwise, both the insulation and the wood of the logs will get wet from the humid vapors that are inevitably found in the atmosphere of human habitation. Of course, we are not striving for this at all. You can read more about the features of insulation of the outer walls of a wooden house in the section of the article of the same name.
Mistake # 4. Rough choice of thermal insulation material
Construction markets are literally and figuratively overwhelmed with a variety of thermal insulators.
However, if we introduce a strict systematization into this abundance, it turns out that everything dominates 3 types of materials suitable for wooden log cabins ... These are heaters:
- from ,
- glass wool,
- - cellular and extruded.
I do not mind using this material, but I vote with both hands for its thoughtful use. There, for example, where the fire will never get - in the foundation, in the plinth, in the blind area. Here he is truly worthless.
Choosing between glass wool and mineral wool is more difficult. Both are perfect for insulation log house... You will learn about which thermal insulation materials are preferable from a safety point of view from the article.
Mistake # 5. Careless handling and storage of material
Thermal insulation materials must be dry... Only in this case they "keep" warm. And if the material gets wet, then its heat-insulating ability drops dramatically.
Remember the common "kitchen" situation: what kind of potholder do you grab the metal handle of a hot frying pan - dry cloth or wet / wet? I am sure that after a moment's thought, you will choose the dry option. So the insulation must always be dry. In factories, during production, it is packaged in packaging (often in shrink-wrap) film and is sufficiently well protected from climatic moisture. But it is worth removing the film ... Therefore:
- Unpack the insulation one day before use. and always under a canopy, or even better - in a house to be insulated.
- After fixing the insulation on the wall go straight to its cladding plastering or safety panels (etc.).
- Do not leave the heaters open for a long time, risking soaking them "to the skin" by the summer slanting rains.
Mistake # 6. Choosing flexible mats instead of rigid slabs
On construction market you can find 2 options thermal insulation materials- flexible mats and rigid slabs. At first glance, this is completely identical materials... So what to choose for facade insulation?
If you decide to opt for mats, you will be mistaken, since over the years, the insulation located in an upright position begins to sag here and there, forming cracks into which it rushes cold air, - the same ones that disavow all consumer charm modern heaters.
Rigid slabs keep their dimensions unchanged throughout their entire service life. It is quite possible to walk on the slabs laid on the roof structure without losing the quality of thermal insulation.
Why, then, are flexible mats produced? - They are irreplaceable when insulating horizontal surfaces- underground space and floor slabs... There, in principle, they cannot sag and form gaps for the consumption of heat.
Mistake # 7. Incorrect determination of the thickness of the thermal insulation layer
To the question: "How thick should the heat-insulating layer be?" you will find a reasoned answer in a recently published article.
Here one can only confirm that with thermal insulation of a log house, two layers of material with a thickness of 50 mm will be enough laid one on top of the other. I'll make a reservation that two layers are enough for the climatic conditions of central Russia. In the North, three layers of insulation will have to be put on a wooden wall, and in the southern regions it will be possible to limit oneself to one.
In conclusion, I would like to cite a photograph of a truly unique structure.
What is its originality? The house was built at the end of the 19th century. The house is a log house, but the logs, united by horizontal dowels, are installed vertically. It was insulated in the spring of 2016 with mineral wool insulation (100 mm) and lined with chipboard panels. A entry group made of monolithic reinforced concrete. Truly, on a tiny spot of development, technologies from three different centuries have merged.
For summer residents, owners of private houses, the question of how to insulate the house from the outside and with what, remains one of the most relevant. How to properly insulate a house? Competent insulation of the outer walls not only creates a positive microclimate inside the dwelling, but is very profitable economically. After all, the need for constant use of heating systems in cold weather is eliminated - therefore, you pay less for electricity. The second aspect is the constant "correct" temperature inside the room, the absence of humidity and, as a result, the exclusion of the appearance of fungus, mold, and putrefactive processes.
You can insulate the house outside with your own hands using various modern materials... Initially, you need to look at what the walls of the house are made of, and then decide on the choice of insulation. Each insulation has its own fastening technology. External thermal insulation it is also good in that it does not reduce the volume of the room, does not provoke the accumulation of moisture, and prevents the walls from "sweating". Consider the most commonly used heaters and the specifics of their installation, methods of insulating a house from the outside.
Foam insulation
Insulating the house from the outside with foam is a rational solution. This insulation at home is good for everyone: light, inexpensive, does not require the use of any special technologies, tools.
Installation steps:
- First you need to prepare the surface, level it well. Polyfoam is produced in the form of slabs, therefore, the smoother the outer part of the wall, the better the fit (no voids), the less labor costs it will be possible to insulate the house.
- The surface should be well cleaned, primed to exclude glue or whitewash residues.
- This is followed by the installation of external window sills (ebb).
- Installation starting bar- a base that will prevent the foam plates from sliding down. Also, this element helps to lay the slabs evenly (keep the line).
- To insulate the house, laying the foam insulation begins from the bottom of the wall, the accuracy of the installation of the bottom plate is responsible for the evenness of all subsequent rows. A universal adhesive is suitable for fixing the boards. facade works, silicone sealant, glue for tile, other varieties. Some masters recommend, for greater reliability, to fix the plates with nails (3 days after installation). However, in this case, one should take into account the peculiarities of the material from which the walls of the building were erected, whether it will be possible to use nails in this case.
As for houses made of timber, before insulating a wooden house outside, scrupulously inspect the surface for holes and cracks, and then seal them up with mineral wool, foam or ecowool. There should be no drafts or air pockets.
Before proceeding with the description of the characteristics of another insulation, it is worth clarifying some of the nuances regarding foam. To the frequently asked question: is it possible for them to insulate the house from the outside, the answer is yes - yes, you can.
It is characterized by quite good thermal insulation parameters, but at the same time there is an opinion that it is short-lived, has high flammability, and is unsafe in terms of ecology.
Let's consider these factors in more detail:
- Styrofoam contains polymer additives which are really flammable. However, the danger can threaten only when the installation of the plates was carried out incorrectly, the safety requirements, the rules for the operation of this particular material were not observed. It is quite successfully used at different stages of house construction, if all stages of the insulation "pie" are correctly carried out, then everything will be fine. Its ignition temperature is 491 degrees, which is almost two times higher than that of wood or paper-containing materials. Thus, in terms of flammability, it is no more dangerous wooden furniture or gender.
- It is difficult to voice an objective opinion on the durability of the foam, for the reason that it is relatively young. When choosing, pay attention to its manufacturer, as well as its quality. Most manufacturers guarantee its service life as insulation up to 70 years, taking into account temperature fluctuations from -40 to + 40 ° C.
- Polyfoam is not poisonous, non-toxic, biologically neutral. There has never been a single case when a builder or a person constantly working with him got poisoned or got sick. When in contact with it, you do not need to wear respirators or protective gloves. It has a "breathing" effect - this allows you to maintain an acceptable level of humidity inside the room.
- On the forums dedicated to construction topics, sometimes there is information that foam insulation does not provide heat gain. This opinion is correct, but one should not forget that it perfectly retains heat in the house. If you decide to insulate the walls with it, then about 30% of the heat that previously "went" to the street will remain in the room. It is very important, before insulating the walls outside in a private house with penoplex or polystyrene, to determine its thickness, which is required specifically for your home.
Comparative characteristics of materials for insulation
Very often you can hear the question, what is the difference between polystyrene and penoplex? These insulating materials are really almost the same: both are light weight, moisture resistant, do not rot, are afraid of solvents, acetone. Both have a "related" origin - the method of foaming polystyrene. On the surface, the difference lies in different color- the penoplex has a yellow-orange color. But when the question arises, what is the best way to insulate the walls of the house from the outside with polystyrene or polystyrene foam, the latter demonstrates higher indicators of density, moisture resistance, air tightness.
If you live in an area of high humidity, then when choosing a heater for external walls, it is better to opt for a penoplex. The same mineral wool in such conditions is completely unsuitable for insulating walls and foundations.
A short list of the characteristics of penoplex:
- higher density, respectively, slightly reduced thermal insulation indicators;
- higher moisture resistance;
- higher degree of flammability;
- processed with fire retardants, which is why its environmental friendliness suffers.
In turn, the foam:
- lower density (fragile);
- higher thermal stability (due to the looseness of the structure);
- the degree of moisture resistance is lower (again, due to looseness);
- low sound insulation performance;
- it manifests itself better in combination with other more durable building materials.
Otherwise, they are almost the same, the choice is yours than to insulate.
Now let's look at what is better to insulate the house from the outside, with foam or mineral wool? Again, the choice is always determined by many factors: price, climatic conditions, the material from which the house was built. For example, for a wooden house, mineral wool ( stone wool, glass wool), it is a non-combustible building material. When working with mineral wool, protective clothing, gloves, and a respirator should be worn.
If we consider the characteristics of both heaters from manufacturers, then approximately the same thermal conductivity parameters will be indicated. In fact, this is not entirely true - when insulated, foam shows top scores... It can only be compared with dense balsalt wool in slabs - one of the varieties of mineral wool. In terms of ease of installation, foam insulation also wins: no protection when working with the material, low weight, no dust during processing. Plus, to insulate with foam is cheaper than mineral wool in terms of cost.
Mineral wool manifests itself better at the joints, cold bridges are practically excluded, while foam plastic suffers from this. The problem is solved by choosing sheets with an L-shaped edge for certain stages of work. How to insulate the walls of the house from the outside if they have an uneven surface? Mineral wool is good because it can be cut into fragments of any shape and size - this is very convenient when insulating uneven walls... For foam insulation, the surface must be flat.
Sometimes they are used together, this technique is called multilayer thermal insulation. In such cases, the foam should be located under the mineral wool. Mineral wool should act as the top layer.
How to insulate a block house from the outside?
Some modern building materials used for the construction of houses initially have high thermal insulation performance. Often, the manufacturing company assures that a house built from this material will not need additional insulation. This is not always the case, take, for example, aerated concrete - an excellent environmentally friendly building material with a cellular structure. It really has high performance in thermal insulation, but it also needs insulation.
How to insulate a house from aerated concrete outside? Due to the high vapor permeability, polystyrene or polystyrene foam should be eliminated immediately. If there is a violation of air exchange between the interior and external environment, on the border of the wall and the insulating material, condensation collects (which is why it is constantly wet). If aerated concrete gets wet, mold and fungi will start on it, putrefactive processes will begin. In this situation, polyurethane or mineral wool in the form of mats will be appropriate as a heater.
Initially, the surface of the wall is cleaned of debris, then it is primed. Any irregularities are plastered with a special mixture.
Installation steps:
- Mineral wool in mats is attached to the treated surface with suitable adhesive mixtures, but in no case with dowels.
- Fiberglass is laid on top (silicate glue to help), it acts as a reinforcing layer.
- To insulate those places where window or door openings are located, the insulation material is mounted with a reinforcing mesh or corners.
- This is followed by the turn of plastering and finishing, such as painting.
The presence of high-quality waterproofing is extremely important for aerated concrete walls, since the porous structure actively absorbs moisture. When insulating such a house, dowels, self-tapping screws should be excluded, since any slightest cracks or cracks can lead to a disastrous result for the entire structure. It is allowed to use suitable adhesive mixtures or chemical anchors.
How to insulate a house from a bar outside?
Now let's look at how to insulate a house from a wooden bar 150 × 150 from the outside. In theory, it would also be possible to use polystyrene or polystyrene foam here, but there is one "but" - they are not suitable for wooden houses due to ventilation requirements. Mineral wool passes air well and at the same time is thermal insulation. In turn, the foam provides a reliable barrier to cold, but does not allow free air exchange, which is important for houses from a bar. If the wooden walls are insulated with them, then after a while fungus, rot will appear on them, especially since in winter there will be nowhere to go from condensation.
In addition to mineral wool, waterproofing will be required, construction stapler, self-tapping screws with anchors, a protective antifungal agent, which will need to be pre-treated with the surface of the walls.
The phased installation is as follows:
- preparation of walls;
- laying the first waterproofing layer;
- installation of the crate;
- laying mineral wool;
- installation of the second waterproofing layer;
- how to close the insulation on the wall outside the house? The last step goes decorative plaster or siding (or other suitable material).
Mineral wool should fit tightly, without through gaps. At the bottom, near the foundation and at the top, under the eaves of the roof, air vents should be left to ensure air circulation and steam outlet (so that condensate does not settle on the vapor barrier layer).
Insulation of the basement
What is the best way to insulate the basement of the house outside? The basement also takes on atmospheric precipitation, which means that the insulation for it must have reliable waterproof qualities. This part of the house can be insulated with foaming agents, mineral wool, foam. Each of them requires an individual approach, installation features. However, the best and easiest to work with is polystyrene - durable, durable, moisture resistant. In all respects, this material is the most profitable among other heaters.
Before installing the polystyrene plates, the surface must be treated with a primer. Fastening is done over the waterproofing layer, with polyurethane glue or with bitumen-polymer mastic. It is important to glue mixture did not contain solvents - this destroys the material. The thicker you choose the slab, the better the insulation will be.
Any house, no matter what it was built from, needs competent insulation. The answer to the question of how to insulate a house from the outside and what will depend on many factors: the initial material of the structure, the atmospheric features of the region, the cost of the insulation. In any case, it is better to spend money once on high-quality insulation outside than to give heat to the street for years, to heat the house around the clock.
The question of whether it is worthwhile to insulate the walls of the house from the inside still does not have an unambiguous answer. Some experts are ardent opponents of this option. Others, on the other hand, believe that such a solution will create the most comfortable living conditions for people. It is worth noting that both are right. It all depends on the specific situation, according to which this or that decision should be made. But even before starting work on the insulation of the walls of the house from the inside, it is important to study the features of the process and select a safe material.
Main advantages
Insulation of the walls of the house from the inside is especially important in apartment buildings... Sometimes it is the only option for creating comfortable conditions in those rooms that are adjacent to unheated, cold technical rooms or with staircase... You can also insulate the walls from the inside in a private house. Such a solution will preserve the original appearance of the facade or increase the amount of heat that will be stored in the building.
Such work belongs to unconventional technologies. Most often, their implementation is recommended in cases where it is simply impossible to arrange external insulation. These are, for example, the same high-rise buildings. Indeed, sometimes very often it is required to keep warm in the premises. panel house... Insulating the walls in the apartment from the inside will be the only option when the work can be carried out independently, in the shortest possible time and without obtaining the appropriate permits, which are necessary when arranging the facade. As a result, the comfort of the home will increase, and the owners will forget about such troubles as fungus and mold.
Possible problems
Despite certain advantages, the insulation of the walls of the house from the inside also has a number of disadvantages. It was they who became the reason for the appearance of opponents of this decision. So, the presence of insulation on the inner walls of the building contributes to the emergence of problems such as:
-Insecurity of the walls from the cold. After all Basic structure at home does not get rid of contact with the outside air. This leads to its rapid destruction. Cracks begin to appear on the surface of the walls, because their insulation from the inside takes a certain part of the heat. And if before the measures taken, the external structures of the building were heated from the inside, then after the completion of the work, this process stops.
-Condensation falling out. As you know, droplets of moisture form on a cold surface in contact with warm air. This phenomenon is called the "dew point". the main objective, which stands in front of the thermal insulation of the house - moving such a point outside the outer structure. Insulation of walls from the inside in a private house or in an apartment of a high-rise building leads to the formation of condensation on the border between the insulation and its surface. In this regard, the process turns out to be hidden from the owners, and they simply do not notice it. Walls with high humidity become an excellent breeding ground for mold and fungi.
-Reducing the area of rooms. Today construction industry releases different kinds the most modern materials with a fairly high efficiency. However, she has not yet come up with one that, while maintaining high technical characteristics would be quite small in thickness. Insulation of the house from the inside will take from the premises from 5 to 10 cm of their space, which will significantly reduce the usable area. At first glance, this is not very noticeable. But if you count it over the entire building, then the figure will turn out to be quite impressive.
Based on the foregoing, before starting work on the insulation of the walls of the house from the inside, it is advisable to carefully reflect on negative sides such a decision. Get rid of possible problems needed already on initial stage, because otherwise the negative result will be noticeable already in the first years of such exploitation.
Materials (edit)
What allows you to use the technology that provides wall surface insulation from the inside of the building? These can be the most various materials with their own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. As a rule, the most popular insulation options for performing such work are mineral wool and polystyrene, foam, as well as boards made from wood fiber. Let's consider their advantages and disadvantages in more detail.
Styrofoam
Very often, the owners, who decided to insulate the house from the inside, opt for this material. After all, it is quite effective and, importantly, has a low cost. As a rule, 5 cm of such a protective layer is quite enough to provide a comfortable microclimate in the premises.
Styrofoam is most often used to insulate walls in apartments. multi-storey buildings... The use of this material allows installation to be carried out quickly, without additional tools and complex processing.
Among the disadvantages of polystyrene are the following:
Low strength;
Flammability;
Poor vapor permeability.
The last forecast contributes to the transformation of the house into a real greenhouse. In order to avoid this problem, you will need to equip forced ventilation, which will require additional labor and financial costs.
Penoplex
The closest relative of polystyrene is extruded polystyrene foam, also known as penoplex. Outwardly, these two materials are very similar to each other. However, foam boards have Orange color rather than white. In addition, it is more durable, which determines its durability.
However, the disadvantages of foam in the form of flammability and poor vapor permeability of this material are still preserved. Warming the inner surfaces of the walls when using it will not allow the house to "breathe", which will require equipping forced ventilation.
Can polystyrene foam be used to create a comfortable indoor environment? Yes, but you will need to prepare in advance for possible problems and fix them in time.
This option is more acceptable for a house, as well as erected from lightweight concrete. As for the tree, it is usually chosen for the construction of buildings for its ability to "breathe". But polystyrene and penoplex overlap air currents... This negates all the benefits of wood.
Mineral wool
These insulation materials are also widely used for interior cladding... Attractive in this material is its inexpensive price. Experts recommend using it in hard slabs to insulate the walls of the house from the inside with mineral wool. Such material is easy to install, non-flammable and highly durable.
Roll is produced under such brands as Rockwool, Knauf, and Isover. She has good:
1. Thermal conductivity. This allows you to use a thin layer of insulation.
2. Soundproofing. The use of glass wool provides excellent protection against street noise. Such properties of the material are facilitated by the air gap between its fibers.
3. Water vapor permeability.
4. Tensile strength.
5. Resistance to biological effects, for example, to rodents.
This insulation is also supported by its high service life. It has been successfully performing its functions for fifty years. In addition, mineral wool has a low density and low weight.
However, it should be borne in mind that this material perfectly absorbs water, after which it ceases to function according to its intended purpose. In order to prevent this from happening, provide for vapor barrier and waterproofing in the form of a film or membrane. The first protects the insulation from the side of warm air intake, and the second - from the cold side.
Fiberboard
Insulation from the inside can be carried out using They have:
Good sound absorption and thermal insulation;
Unattractiveness to rodents and insects;
Good resistance to moisture and temperature extremes;
Ease of processing using any tools;
Simple installation;
Convenience for wiring.
However, it should be borne in mind that fiberboard boards are subject to treatment with toxic substances. This carries a danger to humans. That is why this material is most often used for outdoor decoration.
Insulation of frame houses
For those who decide to improve the comfort of their home, you will need to check its condition. If any defects are found, they will need to be eliminated before starting work. Wall insulation frame house from the inside will require their cleaning and removal of foreign objects. An important point it will also get rid of the gaps in the structural elements. To do this, you need to apply polyurethane foam... If the wood of the walls is damp, then it is dried using a construction hair dryer.
Carrying out the insulation of the walls of the house from the inside with your own hands, you will need to go through two stages. The first of these is the installation of waterproofing. The second stage involves laying a layer of thermal insulation.
The waterproofing is pre-cut into strips corresponding to the size of the walls and attached to them. Next, the insulation is laid, placing it between the racks of the pre-equipped crate. The material selected to create a comfortable room temperature is pre-cut into strips corresponding to the wall area. Moreover, their size may exceed the required one by 5 cm. Such a nuance allows you to lay the insulation denser. This will increase the efficiency of its application.
Thermal insulation of wooden houses
Work in such buildings begins with the installation of the lathing, which is equipped on the load-bearing walls. In this case, it is recommended to use a bar. It makes sense to insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside using a metal profile in cases where in the future they will be covered with moisture-resistant plasterboard.
To create even and correct angles prepare corner posts from a bar with a section of 50 x 100 mm. Their height should be equal to the height of the room. Along the edge of such a bar, a second one with a smaller section (50 x 50 mm) is reinforced with self-tapping screws. Such a solution will allow you to fix the selected material inside the created structure.
Insulating the walls of a wooden house from the inside will require their preliminary treatment with a special liquid. This will protect the surface from rotting and burning.
The next stage of insulating the walls of a wooden house from the inside with your own hands is the installation of bars, which are attached in 50 cm increments.After completing the arrangement of the lathing, you can begin the process of fastening the material, which is most often mineral wool. The insulation is pre-cut to the height of the walls with a width exceeding the distance between the vertical parts of the structure by 2 cm.
Mineral wool is fixed inside the batten with anchor bolts. It can be laid in 2 layers, between which the film must be placed.
After fixing the heat insulator, bars with a size of 30x40 mm are mounted. Next, sheathing is performed using the chosen by the owners decorative material, which can be, for example, a lining. By the way, it will allow you to additionally insulate the house. At the same time, the interior will look very attractive.
Insulation of panel houses
In order to create a comfortable temperature in such a building, as a rule, mineral wool is used. In addition, wall insulation in panel house from the inside can be made with foam and fiberboard, foam polyurethane and cork.
How is this work done? Insulation of walls in a panel house from the inside will require cleaning them from old coatings. You can use a vacuum cleaner to remove dirt. The surface should be treated with a primer and antiseptic. After applying the next layer, the wall should be allowed to dry thoroughly. At the next stage, the surface is leveled with plaster, with covering all joints with mastic, sealant or moisture-resistant solution. Only after that they start arranging the heat insulator. Complete work with installation facing material, to which the final finish is applied.
Insulation of brick houses
Buildings made of this material are distinguished by their durability and strength. However, brick retains heat much worse than, for example, wood. To support indoors comfortable temperature, you will need to protect the walls from the cold.
Very often, the owners insulate the walls with an isover from the inside in a brick house. is in the list of one of the most popular materials for such work. However, it should be borne in mind that you cannot leave it open. Indeed, over time, mineral wool will begin to emit dust, which negatively affects the health of residents. If brick house using this material will be insulated correctly, then no problems will arise in the future. In this case, you only need to waterproof the insulating layers, since they easily absorb moisture, get wet, as a result of which they lose their properties.
To install an insulating layer of mineral wool with your own hands, you will need to prepare the following materials and tools:
Wooden slats;
Mineral wool;
Waterproofing film;
Vapor barrier film;
Plaster;
Primer;
Putty knife;
Plywood or drywall.
Installation of mineral wool is carried out after thorough preparation of the walls, which are plastered and primed. It is not necessary to level such a surface, because in the future, the crate will be mounted on it.
After the walls have dried, a layer of waterproofing is attached to them. Next, they begin to form the crate, which is made from wooden slats fastening them together with screws. At the next stage, a heater is installed. A vapor barrier film is placed on top of it and the battens of the crate. Cover such a structure with sheets of drywall or plywood. The joints of the facing material are sealed with putty.
The mistake of many novice inexperienced builders or too economical owners of premises is the desire to ensure the preservation high temperature in the winter due to the insulation of the house from the inside.
Before starting work, the craftsmen are obliged to warn the owners why it is impossible to insulate the house from the inside, and what consequences await them in the end: unpredictable climate change in a confined space, high humidity and violation of the integrity of the walls, fungus, mold and even small puddles from a large number condensate.
Why you can insulate a house from the outside and not from the inside
Preserving living space and reducing the difference in fluctuations in external and internal temperatures, preventing overdried air and the formation of increased moisture makes external insulation more appropriate. Why is it better and how to insulate the house outside:
- Styrofoam. Retains warmth, inhibits moisture, but is vulnerable to direct sunlight. Flammable;
- fibrous mineral wool. Good vapor permeability, sound insulation and fire resistance;
- penoplex. Possesses minimal indicators of thermal conductivity, is not susceptible to moisture and is resistant to combustion;
- liquid insulation polyurethane foam. Prevents the formation of condensation and moisture, does not form cracks, the material is resistant to mold and fungal infections;
- basalt slabs. Contain enough formaldehyde, which repels small rodents, quickly covers the required area, is not susceptible to sudden temperature changes, excludes rotting and inflammation. Provides heat and sound insulation.
A little differently processed outer surface log cabins. Environmentally friendly natural material quickly absorbs moisture, which means that it requires more thorough and reliable protection. To insulate a house from a bar outside, glass wool, modern polymers and felt are enough.
But even qualified specialists in some cases refuse to work because of customers who have absolutely no idea, why it is impossible to insulate the house from the inside:
- the area of the room is reduced;
- danger of high humidity indoor space and insulation. Walls in terms of heating temperature may differ from room rates, condensation begins to form, fungus and mold appear;
- violation of ventilation;
- lowering the strength and thermal insulation characteristics of the walls.
Incorrectly carried out insulation will entail a change in the facade of the building, large expenses, and an insufficiently ventilated room will also provoke diseases of the respiratory system.
Is it possible and why not to insulate the house from the inside
Perform any construction works that relate to changing premises should not be followed. Only experienced specialist will determine how you can insulate the house from the inside:
- warm seam. Perfect option for a wooden house. The sealant is only placed between the logs on the ceiling and façade. Linen tape and felt are also used. In extreme cases, the seams can simply be caulked;
- mineral wool. An environmentally friendly and inexpensive product, provides noise insulation and retains heat in log houses, is not exposed to fungus. Among the disadvantages can be noted the need for additional installation over the mineral wool of a special vapor barrier. It dries quickly when wet internal material, but does not eliminate the accompanying problem, like shrinkage at high humidity;
- expanded polystyrene. Lightweight and moisture resistant polymer analogue of synthetic foam. It is susceptible to fungal diseases, therefore, the walls are pretreated before using it. protective equipment... Walls and ceilings are cleaned and leveled, the joints are foamed. It is not applied to wooden surfaces and log cabins;
- liquid polyurethane foam. Requires a pre-fabricated frame that will fill the material. After insulation, you will need to plaster the ceiling and walls with a special mesh.
All the materials with which they usually try to isolate the room before the onset of cold weather have a lot of shortcomings and side effects... It is a pity that many people do not want to accept why it is impossible to insulate the house from the inside.
Wall insulation from the inside: how and with what
If you look at the picture from a thermal imager, it becomes clear that the lion's share of heat loss from heated rooms occurs through the outer walls. The required level of resistance to heat transfer is obtained by using heaters, which, at the stage of building a house, are mounted inside multilayer enclosing structures - between the frame posts, on the facade, in the form of layered masonry, etc.
Many of our compatriots had to live in buildings built in the era cheap heating and low energy efficiency standards. This applies to both multi-apartment buildings and houses in the private sector. In both cases it is necessary to deal with additional thermal insulation, but it is not always possible to do this from the "right" street side. In private houses, there are difficulties with the insulation of basements and buried "basement" floors. Per cold wall apartments may be a staircase, a mine, a temperature gap ... or the authorities may simply not allow the facades to be insulated.
Why should you avoid wall insulation from the inside?
All written and unwritten rules state that the "warmer" layers in the outer walls should be located closer to the street, and the "colder" ones - closer to the room. Additional thermal insulation of the walls from the side of the rooms is not recommended, but ... acceptable. The Code of Rules "Design of thermal protection of buildings" (SP 23-101-2004) says the following:
“It is not recommended to use thermal insulation with inside due to the possible accumulation of moisture in the heat-insulating layer, however, if such an application is necessary, the surface on the side of the room must have a continuous and durable vapor barrier layer. " Note: Continuous and durable vapor barrier!
Indirect inhibitory factors are called: loss useful area, labor intensity and high cost of this enterprise. but the main problem internal insulation lies in the subsequent incorrect operation of the enclosing structures.
After installing insulation materials from the inside of the wall, we artificially move the line of demarcation between the outside cold and the energy generated by the heating system. Under such conditions, in winter, our insulation becomes a barrier to warm air, so the rest of the wall gets frozen rather quickly.
If the air is saturated with water vapor to a certain level, then droplet moisture in the form of condensation may appear on cold surfaces. It is this effect that we can observe when bad PVC windows "cry". Condensation is possible if the temperature of the problem surface matches - the air temperature in the room and the specific relative humidity. This dependence (as well as the process itself) is called the “DEW POINT”.
In the current Codes of Rules for the design of thermal insulation of houses, tables with exact numbers are displayed.
In our case, the cold surface is located very close to the room. The dew point zone during the implementation of internal insulation usually falls directly between load-bearing wall and insulation. Therefore, very often, under the heat-insulating layer, the wall begins to get wet, as a result of which the structures gradually collapse; the insulation, having been saturated with water, stops working; mold develops in the nutrient medium, fungi grow. The only option to avoid this is to maximize vapor barrier to keep moisture out of the chilled wall.
In the Manual (PZ-2000) to SNiP 3.03.01-87 "Design and installation of thermal insulation of enclosing structures of residential buildings" there is clause 7.2.2, which says:
“Insulation systems should be installed from the outer (cold) surface of the wall. Internal insulation external walls are allowed to be performed in separate apartments of multi-storey buildings, for the safety of the facades of which special requirements of the authorities are imposed government controlled architecture and urban planning activities. At the same time, constructive measures should be developed to exclude condensation at the junction of the insulation layers and the wall material, at the intersection of the insulation layer with floor slabs and internal transverse walls, as well as on the edges of openings, which should be confirmed by the calculation of temperature fields. "
This quote is of particular interest because the developers pay attention to the need to protect not only the plane itself from moisture, but also the edges of the insulation, joints, abutments ...
What method of insulation to choose and what kind of insulation to buy
Additional thermal insulation from the side of the premises can be done in two ways:
- As on the facade, sometimes the method of bonded thermal insulation is used, when a dense insulation is glued to the base, drilled to the wall with disc dowels, then a reinforcing mesh is applied to the surface and everything is covered with a finishing protective and decorative layer on top (this should be a vapor barrier - polymer plaster, tiles and the like).
- A wall frame is assembled next to the enclosing structure. Heaters are laid in the cavity of the resulting false wall.
The second option is more popular, since, despite the greater thickness of the finished cake, we get a wall that is more resistant to mechanical damage, we have the opportunity to use any finish, including painting with interior paints or wallpapering. Using insulation inside the wall frame, there is no need to rest against the very high density thermal insulation materials, however, in any case, it should be PLATE (for example ISOROC P-75). You can work exclusively with materials that have been designed to be operated in an upright position without direct loading on them. That is, roll models of mineral wool should be excluded immediately.
Basalt wool and fiberglass insulation are comfortable due to their resilience and elasticity. They are easily adjusted to the size, hold well in place when fastened between the racks. But since the insulation of the walls from the inside is associated with the possibility of moistening the array due to condensate, then fibrous cotton materials will not be here the best option... They have the ability to absorb water, which is why, after getting wet, they become thermally conductive. Against this background, more preferable are: foam and EPS (Penoplex-comfort).
The heat-insulating layer on the side of the room is exactly the place where the usual lack of plate polystyrene turns into a plus for the user. EPPS is, perhaps, out of competition here.
- Firstly, extruded polystyrene foam has practically zero water absorption due to the closed pore structure.
- Secondly, EPS is a vapor-tight material. It by itself will not allow moisture to reach the area where the dew point is located.
- Thirdly, EPS boards with a thickness of more than 30 mm can usually be purchased with a stepped edge, which helps to better seal the seams in thermal insulation.
- Fourthly, extruded polystyrene foam shows some of best numbers by the coefficient of thermal conductivity among other heaters.
Another option that is especially worth considering is sprayed types of thermal insulation. Polyurethane foams applied under pressure create an insulating layer without seams, they fill irregularities well, adhere tightly to the base and adjacent structures, and seal (by themselves) the abutments. If the sprayed insulation is not damaged in the future, then its pores will remain closed, and it will not allow water vapor to pass through, and will not be saturated with moisture.
Procedure for insulating walls from the inside
Preparation of the base
The load-bearing wall must be cleaned before starting work. After that, all possible cracks and through holes should be repaired. When insulating from the side of the room, it is recommended to treat the base with antifungal agents. For a house made of wood, the composition "Nortex" -Lux is well suited. With the same name there is an antiseptic agent intended for the treatment of concrete and stone walls a different type.
Hanging the wall
Before starting the installation of the frame, it is necessary to determine possible irregularities on load-bearing wall... Inside the room, this can be done using a 2.5-3 meter long rule in which the bubble levels are integrated. If the wall is too long, then the drops are easy to find by pulling on the control cords. The cord is pulled along the base to be examined near the floor, near the ceiling and diagonally.
When localized "bulging" zones are identified, the frame indent should be taken from them. In some cases, if the base defect is small, it is easier to knock it down than to go false too far into the room.
Mounting brackets
When insulated from the side of the room, the frames are assembled from galvanized "ceiling" profiles. V wooden house these can be dry edged bars with a section of 50x50 mm, which have undergone thorough antiseptic treatment. In both cases, perforated "straight hanger" brackets are used.
To install the brackets on a wall, first mark their location. Since the profiles will be spaced at intervals of 400 or 600 mm (multiple of the width of the drywall boards), it is with such distances that the rows of fasteners will be located along the axes. In each vertical row, the distance between the U-shaped brackets should be about 600-750 mm.
Fixation of straight hangers on the wall is carried out by means of “quick assembly” dowels 6x40 mm in size (for concrete), 6x60 or 6x80 - for brick. TO wooden wall"Peshki" are fastened with stainless self-tapping screws with a large flat head from 45 mm in length. There are two hardware for each bracket, they must pass through the side lugs.
Important! Installation of direct hangers on the wall, it is recommended to carry out through a heat-insulating gasket, then it will be possible to interrupt the heat transfer through the metal and minimize cold bridges.
Insulation laying
Very often, thermal insulation is installed after the entire frame has been assembled. That is, mineral wool, foam or EPS is bursting between the racks, but there is no insulation behind the profiles. In this case, it is better to lose the extra 3-5 centimeters, but to reliably insulate the wall with a continuous layer. To do this, the insulation slabs are "pricked" on the brackets and snuggled to the wall.
Obviously, some kind of fixation of the insulating material will be required. For this it is best to use glue method... Among different types adhesives, the most preferable will be polyurethane glue in cylinders, but dry mixtures, which are mixed with water, intended for the method of bonded thermal insulation, can also be used.
Important! When installing the insulation on the wall, we recommend that you press it as much as possible in order to eliminate the gap through which moist air could circulate. For the same reason, it is better to apply the glue on beacons, and with a notched comb-trowel. If glue from a balloon is used, then it is advisable to make a continuous strip of it in the form of a closed loop around the perimeter of the plates.
It is better to foam the gaps between the foam or EPS boards. It makes sense to fill up the cracks near the passage of the brackets with foam, as well as the gaps at the junctions of the insulation to the floor, ceiling and other structures.
Installation of vapor barrier
As you remember, our important task is to prevent moisture (in any of its manifestations) from penetrating to the dew point. Therefore, it is necessary to hang a vapor barrier building sheet over the insulation, it can be either ordinary reinforced polyethylene, or more technologically advanced membranes or foamed polyethylene foam.
The canvases can be pre-secured with double-sided tape. It does not matter how the stripes will be located (vertically or horizontally), but they must be hung with an overlap of at least 100 mm relative to each other.
Important! The vapor barrier should go to adjacent structures so that the insulating layer is reliably protected, including from the ends. The joints of the strips and the places where the vapor barrier adjoins to other structures must be glued with waterproof construction tape.
Installation of frame profiles
Profiles can now be installed on top of the insulating layer. In any case, we need a combination of CD and UD. First, the UD guide profiles are fixed in place along the perimeter of the wall with the help of dowels. Then the extreme wall profiles are exposed in the brackets and fixed strictly vertically with self-tapping screws LN 9 mm.
When the extreme profiles of the CD are exposed, several control cords are pulled into the target with their front surfaces. These will be the lighthouse cords, along which the rest of the subsystem profiles are alternately exposed.
If the height of the ceilings is greater than the height of the cladding panels, then it will be necessary to assemble the lintels to ensure reliable joining of the drywall sheets on the meek side. Jumpers are made from cuttings of the CD profile, in place they are fastened with "one-level" brackets (these are the so-called "crabs" and the like).
Fastening drywall boards
It would be possible to use materials such as a blockhouse, imitation of a bar or lining here. But to create tightness, plate materials are better suited. Insulating the walls of a house / apartment from the inside - it is highly advisable to buy a drywall 12.5 mm thick. It - Green colour plates with GKLV marking
Bonding EPS
The slabs are mounted on the frame according to the rules common for gypsum plasterboard systems. Fixation takes place with self-tapping screws 25 mm long for metal, with a traditional pitch between screws and with a traditional indent from the edge of the plate.
Important! After installing all drywall sheets, the gaps between the cladding and other structures must be filled with water-resistant sealants. It can be a silicone or acrylic based material.
To putty and to finishing there are no special requirements, here you only need to comply with standard general construction requirements. But if options are available, then it is better to give preference to vapor-permeable materials with better moisture resistance.
What else to pay attention to
It would not be superfluous to say that insulation must be done in a comprehensive manner. In our case, when performing work from the side of the premises, it is recommended to insulate (with good vapor barrier) also the floors and the ceiling, at least in small areas near the problem wall. If there is a window on the wall, then it is very important to make good thermal insulation of the slopes and the area around the window sill.
The sealing of a wall insulated in this way (and there may be several of them in the room) sometimes causes a sharp increase in the humidity of the air in the dwelling. Therefore, ventilation should be carefully considered. The solution is to install exhaust fan on the outlet channel, in the installation of supply valves on the wall or on the window, maintaining the required gap under the canvases interior doors, which will ensure normal air flow.
