Many owners of houses and apartments strive to make their homes as environmentally friendly as possible. For the same reason, they do not seek to replace wooden windows with plastic ones, but prefer to restore them, i.e. renovate old wooden windows.

The advantages of wooden windows:

• naturalness of wood;

• wood is hygroscopic, i.e. does not interfere with air exchange in the house;

• low thermal conductivity allows you to save heat;

• long service life of wood with proper care;

• aesthetic appearance. Wooden windows can fit into various interiors.

All this speaks in favor of the restoration of wooden windows.

When do windows need renovation or repair?

Firstly, when it starts to blow from the window opening;

Secondly, when the appearance of the window is lost due to deformation of the frames, the appearance of fungus, damage to the wood or one of the nodes (window fittings).

How to repair a wooden window with your own hands?

Let's start with the fact that we will understand the definition: window repair or restoration are similar works that do not have a fundamental difference, they consist in cleaning, filling, painting, sealing, etc. Painting of windows does not apply to repair work, more to restoration work, since it does not affect the functional qualities of a wooden window. Only the appearance changes.

Depending on the degree of deterioration of windows (frames, glass and fittings), the approach to performing restoration work will differ.

The technology for repairing wooden windows is quite simple, but it requires meticulous execution of each stage of work.

Redecoration of wooden windows

Elimination of local damage. For example, fungus damage to a part of a window frame.

• identification of the site of damage. To do this, you can conduct a small test: with an awl you need to push through the shabby or suspicious parts of the frame, if the tip easily falls through, then the wood is damaged;

• cutting off an unusable layer;

• the cleaned area is dried. To do this, you can use a building hair dryer or a heater (be careful with glass, direct the air flow directly to the wood);

• application of wood hardener and preservative;

• applying putty. Layer thickness - according to the instructions. If you need to apply several layers, you need to wait until the first one dries well;

• painting the window.

More details - in the photo.

Overhaul of a wooden window - complete restoration

Tool and materials:

1. hair dryer to remove paint. Referring to the reviews of the masters, we note that many are trying to remove the paint without it, but this only damages the wood more;
2. grinder and sandpaper. For leveling the surface;
3. shoe knife for removing old paint
4. putty knife. Reconstruction of wooden windows presupposes the obligatory filling of the frame and sash surfaces;
5. paint and varnish brushes;
6. chisels;
7. fittings, glass (if replacement is expected);
8. drying oil, varnish and / or paint;
9. putty;
10. primer;
11. sealant.

The cost of repairing wooden windows depends on the price of consumables, tools and, of course, on the condition of the frames. On the other hand, do-it-yourself window restoration does not require any special skills. However, it should be noted that this work cannot be done in one day.

A few words about preparation. It is best to do the job on a warm, sunny day. The main condition is dryness, because high humidity will adversely affect the result (wood changes geometry, dries poorly, etc.).

We remove the window sashes from the awnings. If the glass is set on putty, remove it with a chisel, if on glazing beads (glass rail), then carefully dismantle them. After that we take out the glass.

We remove all the accessories (it is better to replace it with a new one). You also need to remove the wooden drips on the windows (wooden strips located on the lower part of the frame outside the window are also called "dripstone"). They are attached to nails that have probably already rotted away. In general, all screws, nails, metal corners, etc. are removed from the frames.

We put the “bare” frame on a flat surface and measure it - all the diagonals must be of the same length, otherwise, the skew in some place will lead to the formation of cracks, which is unacceptable. We fasten the frame tightly to the surface (it can be a board made of boards).

Dowels for windows can be knocked out with a hammer (they are cone-shaped, therefore, you need to knock out from the thin side), provided that they are located exactly (symmetrically to the corner) and lend themselves. But, under pressure, the dilapidated frame can deform, therefore, it is better to drill out. If the dowel dangles, you can fix it before drilling - a couple of drops of superglue into the slot and after 5 minutes the drill will go like solid wood.

At the next stage, when the window is dismantled, we proceed to cleaning it from paint.

How to remove paint from wooden windows

There are several ways to remove paint from windows

Removing paint with a building hairdryer

You need to work carefully, ideally remove the glass first, or direct the flow of hot air so as to exclude direct contact with the glass. The high temperature may cause the glass to break (crack and spill out).

Set the temperature regime on the hair dryer to 250 degrees.

The task of removing the paint is not fast, but high quality. At higher temperatures, the wood will char and lose its properties as a result of the burn.

In the process of warming up, the paint will begin to rise in bubbles, which must be cleaned off with the correct tool.

It is better to do this with a boot knife (a palette knife is also suitable - a trowel knife for mixing paints on a palette in painting). The fact is that the spatula will slide over the paint, or cut into the wood, leaving burrs.

Removing paint by chemical means

You can remove old paint from the window frame with special solutions (removers, liquids). They also use the "tricky method" - kerosene and a plastic bag. It is kerosene, because solvents and solvent destroy the wood structure.

Execution technology

• The wooden frame must be wrapped with a cloth (rags) and the whole structure must be placed in a plastic bag.

• Moisten the cloth abundantly with kerosene, then tie the bag and leave for a day or two. During this time, the paint should soften and be easily removed (the above tool is used for cleaning).

Tip: remove the planks from the bag gradually, i.e. one pulled out - cleaned, etc., if you remove everything at the same time - the kerosene will evaporate (dry), therefore, the paint layer will return to its original state (dry, harden) and stop separating.

Of course, there may not be such a large package for a whole window frame, therefore, you will have to disassemble the frame into elements. Or, as an option for processing the assembled frame, you can moisten the fabric and wrap it tightly with plastic wrap, additionally tying the layers with rope in order to maximally seal the surface to be treated.

Advice: keep in mind that removing paint from windows in this way is accompanied by a pungent odor, plus, the technique is fire hazardous, therefore, it must be performed on the street or on the balcony.

The inner window sill and sill also needs to be cleaned.

After removing the paint, the frame will look something like the photo. This is clearly not a suitable type for finishing work.

Remains of paint are removed with sandpaper or a grinder.

Elimination of deformation of a wooden window

Sometimes old wooden windows are deformed, which can manifest itself in the form of distortions and curvatures of the frame. For example, one or more casements of the window led. This will be especially noticeable when installing the stack, when it falls into the selected groove, and the glass weighs in the corners, or vice versa, the corners lie, and there is a gap in the middle.

If the window is removed and disassembled, you can put it under a press, which is made of wooden panels and a weighting agent.

If on the installed window, then it is possible to insert a stop (a bar, a bar of a suitable size) in the place of the bend (curvature), and applying an effort to close the window, fixing it with bolts or invent a fastening with self-tapping screws (for example, screw the bar diagonally to the frame). All these manipulations are performed without glass.

We leave in this state for 2-3 days, after which we increase the thickness of the spacer, and thus bring it to the desired position.

The method is controversial, but sometimes it helps. Cracks may appear that can be repaired. We take a regular syringe and use it to inject PVA glue into the crack. Because the glue is liquid, it will flow out, the place needs to be pecked with tape. After drying, repeat the procedure, and then clean everything, putty and paint.

Restoration of wooden windows - restoration of rotten parts of the frame

If a fragment of the frame has rotted, it can be replaced or restored. If replacement is not foreseen, then restoration remains. To do this, you will need an epoxy putty for wood (fiberglass may be included in the composition, which will significantly increase the rigidity of the structure).

The damaged area is cleaned of paint and debris is removed. Next, putty is applied.

Apply the mixed putty to the damaged area; the mixture should fill all cracks and cracks well. Recreate the missing section so that it is slightly larger than the desired plane, i.e. there should be a volume left for subsequent grinding. Drying (hardening) of the putty lasts a day (at room temperature). Then, using a grinder or emery paper attached to a block, we grind the surfaces until they are completely aligned.

It should be understood that such a restoration allows you to restore the appearance, but does not guarantee sufficient density, especially in places of active use (places where the window sash is tightly adjacent). But if the window is deaf or rarely used, then it is a completely self-sufficient way to get out of the situation without completely replacing the window or frame elements.

• checking the frame for damage;

• marking the damage zone with dots;

• cutting out the zone;

• preparation of replacement;

• replacement. The prepared part of the frame is installed in the desired place, fixed with glue and clamped with clamps. After 24 hours, the clamps are removed;

• grinding of the junction of the old frame and replacement. This will avoid a drop in height;

• priming;

• staining. Material prepared for the site www.site

More details - in the photo.

After cleaning the frame from the paint, you need to putty it.

Putty for windows is sold as a finished product, at the same time, you can prepare it yourself. To do this, mix 3 parts of sawdust in one part of liquid nails.

The technology is simple, but the solution dries quickly, therefore, we mix quickly and in small portions.

Mixed up - putty, etc.

The homemade putty is based on glue, and therefore, it quickly hardens.

Grind the dry and dense surface with a machine or fine-grain emery paper (sandpaper).

Oil impregnation

Wood processing with drying oil is a good “old-fashioned method”, time-tested. But, it should be borne in mind that the modern drying oil differs from the drying oil of the times of the USSR. Now it is difficult to find natural drying oil, as a rule, they sell something derivative, such as "Oksol". The point is that the real one is made from natural ingredients (linseed, hemp oil), and not from synthetic derivatives. There are many good impregnations on the market that have replaced drying oil and its production from vegetable oils is simply unprofitable. Alternatively, for aesthetes, you can make your own drying oil.

Coating of window frames with linseed oil is carried out with a brush, the first layer as an impregnation, the second or third final. It is necessary to maintain a time interval between the layers (preferably until complete drying, and this process is not quick). If the surface does not stick, then you can continue to work.

Hot linseed oil impregnation

A method of processing with hot linseed oil is also used. It should be understood that drying oil is a combustible material and, in contact with an open fire, is easily ignited.

How to heat drying oil?

You can heat the drying oil in a water bath and the second method is more dangerous - heating to a boiling state. To do this, make a flask from an iron pipe, one end of which is welded. Linseed oil is poured into it and heated with an electric stove or a construction hairdryer to a boil (during the heating process, fire is possible, extinguished by throwing burlap). After that, the bars of the window frame are lowered into the hot drying oil for 5 minutes, and they are crocheted. high temperature and laid to dry. According to reviews, impregnation with hot drying oil creates a coating for centuries (the effect of wooden railway sleepers).

Again, this is very important(!), heating drying oil is a dangerous undertaking.

To proliferate windows or treat them with an antiseptic, everyone decides for himself, each of them has pros and cons.

Coating with stain and varnish

If the condition of the window frames after removing the paint is good and there is a desire to preserve the naturalness of the wood, then you can treat the surface with a stain.

Stain can be used to change the shade of the wood, for example, tinted pine can look like bog oak as a result.

Before treating the window frame with wood stain, it is better to check the consistency of the solution on a separate board (preferably the same type of wood and shade), i.e. choose the tone of the wood.

Staining wooden windows not only improves their aesthetic qualities, but also makes the wood more resistant to UV rays, and also prevents rotting and the development of fungus.

In addition, the stain penetrates deeply into the structure of the wood, therefore, if later it is necessary to clean it up with a sandpaper somewhere, it will not disturb the shade and texture of the frame.

The wood stain finish is finished with varnishing. Dry window frames are covered with clear varnish (it is better to use acrylic varnish for wood, glossy or matte).

After complete drying, window fittings (awnings, handles, latches) are installed and glass is inserted.

Installing glass in a window

Correct glazing of wooden windows provides for a sealed glass installation, because it is in the micro-gap between the glass and the frame that it will blow. The glass is planted with silicone glue (aquarium sealant). Squeeze out a thin layer of aquarium glue along the groove under the glass of the window frame and insert the glass, which we fix with glazing beads. We wipe the protruding glue with a sponge dipped in vinegar. Do not rub off the nail heads, a thin layer of sealant will additionally protect them from rust. We leave the windows to dry; it will take at least a day for the glue to harden.

Sometimes the restoration of wooden windows is accompanied by the replacement of glass, if there are defects (cracks, cloudiness, abrasions, traces of welding or grinder). After all, glass also has its own resource. When ordering glass, you need to accurately measure the opening, but order by 2-3 mm. less, because the glass expands under the influence of temperature, and the resulting gap will not allow it to burst.

The glass is fixed in the frame using glazing beads and small nails. At the same time, the glazing beads must be prepared in advance (impregnation with linseed oil, painting or staining). You can even drill holes in the glazing bead with a thin drill. Then, when hammering, the glazing bead will not crack and the glass will not crack.

Below is a photo gallery - a master class on installing glass on a putty, without glazing beads. For example, glass is broken, needs to be replaced, but there is no rail for fastening the glass at hand, or there is simply no need for it. Putty for glass is bought ready-made or made independently (mix chalk on drying oil).

When choosing how to process wooden windows, take a closer look at the quality of work.

If you are satisfied with the surface condition (i.e. no deep damage, uniform color), give preference to varnish. At the same time, in order to even out or change the tone of the wood, you can treat the frame with wood stain. She will also hide minor defects.

If there are many areas with putty, then it should be covered with paint.

Oil or acrylic paint is used for staining. The first lasts longer, but dries for a long time, the second, on the contrary.

First, you need to dilute the paint, too thick will poorly saturate the wood and drips may appear. It is better to apply several coats of more liquid paint.

The first layer is to saturate the wood. Only after it dries well can a second coat can be applied, etc.

You need to start painting from the inner surface - from glass.

After painting, remove the tape (while the paint is still wet). If there are stained marks on the glass, they are removed with a blade.

How to remove tape marks

If the windows were not pasted over with masking tape, but with packing tape, then there will be traces that are very difficult to erase. In this case, it means pasting with adhesive tape not only of glass, but also of the frames themselves (both wooden and plastic).

The first thing that comes to mind: gasoline, diesel fuel, alcohol, cologne, etc. But, these funds cannot be used if you do not want to damage the paintwork. There is a simple and environmentally friendly way to remove scotch marks - adhesive residues on window frames are removed with vegetable oil (sunflower) and then washed off with a cleaning solution.

If old window hinges (awnings) are worn out, they should be replaced. The hinge replacement technology is shown below. First you need to correctly determine the place of attachment. To do this, the window frame must be inserted into the window opening and secured with wedges. When the gap is the same along the entire perimeter, we mark the places for installation. With a chisel we choose a groove for planting the hinge and fasten it with self-tapping screws.

Sealing and insulation of windows

A rubber seal for wooden windows, fixed around the perimeter of the frame, will reduce heat loss.

You can repair wooden windows by. Its essence is that you need to select a groove in the sash. It is fitted with a special euro-strip silicone tubular seal. It is not afraid of low and high temperatures and has a twenty-year warranty.

The final touch in the restoration of windows will be the installation of window fittings (handles and latches). Only then is the window set in place.

How to update wooden windows - video

Conclusion

As a result, we note that correctly executed instructions at each of the stages for the repair of wooden windows and periodic analysis of their condition are a guarantee that the windows will serve you for more than a dozen years.

The special technology of window restoration allows you to preserve their appearance and performance for many years. Next, let's talk in detail about the available techniques and their nuances.

Before you update old windows with your own hands, you need to assess their condition. It is required to identify problem areas. Remember a few helpful tips.

• If the wood is severely damaged (through cracks, cracks more than 5 cm in length, etc.), then the windows need to be replaced. An attempt to patch up such defects will not be crowned with success - the technical characteristics will be violated.
• Serious damage can be hidden under a layer of paint. Therefore, first it must be completely removed (with a solvent, spatula or burner).
• Small potholes can be repaired with putty. Therefore, do not rush to throw out old frames.

In order for the restoration of windows with your own hands to be effective, it must be carried out completely. In other words, you need to fill up the cracks around the entire perimeter. It makes no sense to repair only part of the window, because even the smallest cracks will start to get cold air.

Basics of sealing and insulation

Repair of wooden windows should be done at least once every 2 years. Wood is a rather fragile material that deforms over time. As a result, the level of sealing is significantly reduced, which allows cold air to enter the room. There are several ways to remedy this situation.

Tip: to check where the cold air comes from, bring a flame (from a match or lighter) to the window and start driving around the perimeter. Where the light begins to "attract" and there is a leak.

The most popular technique is the use of sealing strips.

Strips of material are nailed or glued (if there is an adhesive backing) around the perimeter of the box. This is a very affordable option, although not the most durable. There are such types of tapes:

• Plastic coated felt. It is fixed at the bottom of the flaps. Differs in increased durability.
• Pad. Allows you to completely get rid of drafts.
• Tubular rubber seal with adhesive backing. The most popular option today. It can be used for any design. Differs in ease of installation and high technical characteristics. There is one important drawback - the adhesive base loses its properties rather quickly, and the tape begins to fall off. Therefore, it will have to be glued regularly.
• Foam. The cheapest option, which is very short-lived. There are models with a special coating. They are more effective, but in most cases they are not thick enough.

Restoring wooden windows with tapes is not a very durable option. They need to be changed every few years (especially in cold regions). There is a more practical technique - the use of special sealants. During the drying process, this substance takes on the consistency of rubber, which allows it to completely fill all seams and crevices.

The procedure for applying the sealant is simple and anyone can handle it. It is produced in the following sequence:

• We prepare the initial surface: we go through with a fine sandpaper, and then we clean it from dust.
• Degrease (solvent or White Spirit is suitable for this).
• We fill the grooves with a sealant. At the same time, do not fill the gutters and grooves (if these elements are present).
• Immediately put any non-adhesive tape on top of the sealant (cling film is suitable for this).
• After waiting a few hours (the drying time is indicated on the package), remove the tape. If there are smudges, cut them off with a knife.

The sealant must be of the highest quality (resistant to moisture, temperature extremes and UV rays). If you save on this aspect, you will have to carry out the procedure described above much more often. Therefore, the use of high-quality formulations is quite justified.

We give frames their former beauty

Another aspect is appearance. Painting wooden windows gives them their former beauty. Let's consider this procedure in stages.

Removing old paint

To remove the remnants of the previous paint and varnish material, you can use one of three possible methods:

• Solvents (better suited for these purposes). These compounds are applied to the surface, as a result, the old coating dissolves and can be safely removed with a spatula or knife. This method is the simplest, but it doesn't always help. If the paint is very old, then the solvent will be powerless.
• Physical impact - just scrape the frame. This technique is very laborious, and besides, there is a risk of damaging the wood.
• Heating followed by removal. This method is the most effective and very fast - we heat the sashes with the help of special devices (burner, hair dryer). The second device is more practical - it allows you to adjust the degree of heating and does not damage the wood. A gas burner can set wood on fire, which will negatively affect its quality.

Preparing the original surface

After removing the old enamel, you will need to carefully prepare the surface - sand it with sandpaper. You can use a sander - this will save a lot of time. After sanding, we check our surface for defects (tips are given above). If there are small defects, fill it with putty.

Advice: add PVA glue (1 to 5) to the plaster mixture - this will give it moisture resistance.

We use only special putty - for wood. In this case, it must be applied in several thin layers. Otherwise, it will just fall off. Having achieved good evenness, we go over the completely dried (time indicated on the package) putty with a fine sandpaper - this will give it smoothness.

The final touch - painting

The last stage has come - painting the frames.

Perhaps every person is familiar with the work with a brush. Therefore, we will give only a few useful recommendations:

• First, we cover the surface with a primer - this allows you to improve adhesion, as well as increase performance.
• The use of impregnations for wood increases its moisture resistance. As a result, it does not dry out much longer.
• We paint from top to bottom. Otherwise, smudges cannot be avoided.
• The best option is to apply paint in several (3-4) thin layers.

As you can see, updating an old wooden window is not difficult. Therefore, do not rush to make a replacement, because it can be given a second life.

New PVC double-glazed windows are replacing old wooden structures, but not all owners are in a hurry to install them. Indeed, in addition to a lot of advantages, plastic, as an artificial material, has many disadvantages. Therefore, the repair and restoration of wooden windows, aimed at extending their service life, are still relevant. Applying certain technologies and using the necessary tools and materials, all work can be done independently.

Wooden windows - are they worth renovating?

Wooden windows, even if they are old Stalinist ones, have a number of advantages, which include:

• high operational and environmental characteristics of natural material;
• favorable microclimate they create inside the room, because the tree has a unique structure that allows it to "breathe";
• low thermal conductivity, which is very beneficial in terms of energy saving;
• long service life, since wood is a durable and easily repairable material;
• attractive appearance, so they fit well into any interior.

In addition, it should be noted that the cost of restoring old window systems is lower than the cost of new glass units. And even a novice master can do all the work. The only complication of the procedure is that it is time consuming, especially if the house or apartment has many windows.

The restoration is carried out in several stages, starting with subtle elements located in the back room.... This will allow you to gain the necessary experience and better repair the rest of the windows.

Removal of old structures and paintwork

Dismantling work is carried out in the following sequence:

• The first step is to remove the glass so that they remain intact until the moment of re-installation. Carnations and glazing beads are carefully removed by prying them with an improvised tool. If putty was used, then it is knocked out with a chisel, being careful not to apply excessive force and not to damage the glass.
• Dismantle the window frames. If there are difficulties, then they are removed with awnings, having previously unscrewed the screws that hold them. As a last resort, the screws are drilled with a metal drill of a suitable diameter.
• Removal of window frames is carried out as needed - when they are completely worn out or in need of restoration.

Frames are cleaned of paint using one of the most common methods - thermal or chemical. Each of the cases has its own characteristics. In the first, you will need a building hairdryer. The process itself is simple and is carried out in the following sequence:

• the painted surfaces are heated;
• after waiting for the old paint to swell and become softer, it is removed with a spatula;
• in the end, the entire structure is cleaned with sandpaper.

With the chemical method, special means are used - washes, carrying out the work in the following order:

• the substance is applied to the painted surface;
• then the treated area is covered with plastic wrap;
• after waiting one or two hours, it is removed and the dissolved paint is removed with a spatula;
• if necessary, repeat the procedure.

Since the wash is very toxic, all operations are carried out in a well-ventilated area, always using personal protective equipment.

Renovation work

After removing the paint, they begin to repair the frames, which is carried out in several stages:

• The prepared structures are laid on flat wooden boards made of plywood or chipboard.
• Check the geometry of the frames and individual leaves. The easiest way is to measure the diagonals, if the values ​​are the same, then everything is in order.
• The frames are fixed by driving nails around them around the perimeter.
• Old pins are drilled out. To make the hole neat, the drill is taken with a slightly larger diameter than the size of the rods themselves.
• New pins are harvested from well-dried and not cracked wood using a core drill, be sure to choose the direction across the fibers. Moreover, their diameter should exceed the size of the bore by 0.6-0.7 mm.
• The frame is completely disassembled, and all joints are coated with wood glue.
• The parts are assembled in reverse order and placed in a template on the backboard. In this case, it is imperative to check the equality of the diagonals and, if necessary, trim them.
• The pins, greased with liquid nails, are driven into the prepared holes using a mallet. Or an ordinary hammer, but through a drawdown from a wooden block.

Chips or cracks on the surface of the frames are sealed with a putty designed for working with wood. Fill in the holes left over from old self-tapping screws and nails. If the frame will be varnished, then the putty is matched to the color of the wood.

Check the quarters under the vents, sash. Existing cracks are eliminated with liquid nails. If the sash enters the landing frames with effort, then the excess wood is cut off with a chisel. After fitting, all surfaces are treated with sandpaper, trying to get the smoothest possible base. At the end, the wooden elements are covered with a protective impregnation, which must be rubbed in. The procedure is carried out in two passes.

Window frames are restored in the same way. They are also cleaned, putty, treated with a protective compound and painted.

Painting and installation of new fittings

After assembling the frames, the next step is to apply the paintwork. Because, how well it will be done, the appearance and service life of the windows directly depends. Painting is performed in this way:

• the surface of the frames is treated with fine sandpaper;
• cleaned of dust;
• in two stages they are covered with a layer of primer, which improves adhesion and reduces material consumption;
• prepare varnish or paint, for which, pouring into a small container, mix, bring to the desired consistency;
• paint, in order to exclude the formation of drips, is applied with a brush in two layers, but for some types of varnish it is better to use a paint swab.

All that remains is to install new fittings and glass. The first step is to install a heater using Swedish technology. The essence of the method consists in cutting a groove around the perimeter of the frame with a depth of 1 cm. It is filled with a tubular silicone seal, the service life of which is 20 years. Insert the "tail" of the tape into the previously prepared groove and, using a plastic spatula, a special device, sink it to the base.

Swedish technologies make it possible to provide a high level of heat and noise insulation in the room.

Install metal corners, which will give the structure more strength, and sheds. Before screwing in new self-tapping screws, so that the wood does not crack, holes are pre-drilled under them. When fastening the sashes, a level should be used. The more precisely they are set, the easier it is to open and the fewer gaps. Do the same when installing the vents.

Before installing the glasses, all the corners of the quarters are filled with silicone sealant and carefully put them in place. After the glazing beads are attached. After waiting for the seal to harden, mount the latches, handles, and other accessories. This completes the do-it-yourself repair of wooden window frames. As you can see, there are no special difficulties in the work, the only thing that should be paid attention to is accuracy and compliance with the above recommendations.

Do-it-yourself repair and restoration of wooden windows is an occupation for the patient. But it allows, firstly, to save money, and secondly, to get great looking and well-kept warm windows. After all, along the way with staining, you can lay insulation, which guarantees the absence of drafts. You will get windows according to the so-called "Swedish technology".

You meticulously inspect the sash of the window and the frame, open it several times, see if there are any gaps and how large they are. Assess the condition of the wood: are there any rotten areas, if any, what are their sizes.

The first stage is dismantling and assessing the condition of the windows

The first step is to establish whether it is possible to restore the affected areas or whether a rotten fragment requires a complete replacement. If replacement is unavoidable, there are only two options: if you know how to work with wood - you cut out the required part yourself, if not - you order it from the joiner. All other window defects can be eliminated by any person with "straight" hands with their own hands.

Tools and materials

Since we are repairing old windows, we will need to remove the old paint: restoration without this is almost impossible. For this you will need:

• a building hair dryer or a thick plastic bag, rags and 0.5 liters of pure kerosene;
• spatulas, wide knife (boot).

In the future, it will be necessary to repair damage, level the frame and sashes, etc. The set of tools here is more extensive, but even if you buy them, it will not take very much money, and you can make them even less if you rent them.

• hacksaw, jigsaw, hacksaw blades;
• plane, chisels, sampling (if any - excellent);
• drill and drills of different diameters;
• dense wood for wedges and dowels;
• drying oil for impregnation or ready-made primers;
• putty on wood;
• rubber sealing cord;
• new fittings: hinges, latches;
• large, preferably carpentry square, building level, slope;
• glazing beads and silicone sealant.

For impregnation, you may need either factory compounds and a brush, a metal vessel, drying oil, an electric stove or a heat gun.

And the last stage of restoration will be staining. This stage is very important - the appearance and service life until the next repair depends on the quality of the work.

• set of brushes;
• paint for windows or stain and varnish, if you want to preserve the natural look of wood.

The procedure for the restoration of wooden windows

It all starts with dismantling. The sashes are removed first, then the frame itself. Can I not remove the window frame? It is possible only in one case, if it is in perfect condition: there is no damage to the wood, all angles are exactly 90 o and no defects. But it will be more difficult to work. In all other cases, the dismantling is complete.

Glasses are carefully removed from the doors, the old putty is peeled off, all the carnations are given. Fittings are removed from all parts: they must be replaced. Now the external ebb tides are carefully removed: the nails with which they were attached are probably almost crumbling.

Removing the paint

You can use a building hair dryer, setting the temperature to 200-250 o C. It is better not to set it anymore: wood loses most of its properties during high-temperature processing. For the same reason, it is undesirable to use a blowtorch: even without charring, you will break the structure of the wood and it will collapse faster.

Remove paint from the window, heating the surface in a small area. Bubbles quickly appear on the surface, and you need to pry them off with a wide knife, scraper or spatula. It is better to find an old spatula with a rounded blade already: the new one often "cuts" into the wood, and then it will take a long time to grind. In general, it is more convenient to work with a wide knife, which is used by shoemakers.

The second method is chemical softening. There are modern compositions for softening paint, but how they affect the structure of wood is a question. You can use the old, proven method: treat with kerosene. You will need a large bag made of thick plastic wrap (must be whole, without a single hole), old cotton rags (they should not fade) and kerosene. It is undesirable to use other solvents - they again affect the structure of wood fibers.

Wrap the frame with strips of fabric, put it in a bag (its height should be enough for the neck to be tied). Pour out the kerosene and tie the bag tightly. After a day, you can remove the paint. But do not take everything out at once - while they are processing one part, the paint will harden on the others. We took out one part, tied the bag, removed the paint. They took up the next one.

When removing paint in shallow depressions and cracks, the paint can not be removed: less need to putty and level. But this is only if you paint the window. If you plan to varnish, you will have to do everything scrupulously. But for the first experience, it is better to process it with paint: easier and faster.

Align the frame

For leveling, a fairly large, absolutely flat surface will be needed. This can be a table (but the surface is necessarily flat), a workbench, a sheet of plywood laid on stools, etc.

The first is to align the frame. Laying and setting the corners. They should be exactly 90 o. We inspect the contour: the strips should be even. At this stage, we remove the places affected by rot or replace the completely rotten parts of the frame with freshly made ones. (How to process a rotten area is written a little below).

We check the planks in vertical and horizontal planes, remove the excess with a plane. In the corners we earn extra money with chisels. The result should be perfectly straight, level surfaces. Once again we check the corners, measure and align the diagonals, fasten the frame at the corners with nails. Then we take a skin or a sander (belt) and process until smooth.

We restore the sashes

We disassemble the connections of the shutters. They are assembled on pins - small round wooden hairpins. For windows that have served for more than a decade, they must be replaced. It is easier not to knock them out (you can do it this way), but drill with a drill of a smaller diameter. Then remove the remnants and clean the hole for the installation of a new retainer.

If necessary, the sash can be disassembled completely into planks. Clean the joints, align the planks, cut off all unnecessary things with a plane, having worked part-time where the corners are needed. In general, put everything in order.

The next stage is the assembly of the sashes. Fold the processed boards, measure the diagonals and corners. Now a tricky operation: you need to remove the strips, coat the grooves and joints with glue and install them back. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the sash does not warp. After setting the bar in place until the glue has seized, set the corners and diagonals.

After assembly, for greater reliability, we will install new pins. Let's make them first. We take a core drill with an inner diameter of 5-7 mm. Drill cylinders from a block of dense wood across the fibers (exactly across). These will be pins. The diameter of the stud should be slightly larger than the drilled hole in the frame (about 0.5 mm). So it will sit tightly and hold the structure well.

Do not use planed chopiks instead of dowels: the window will have to be repaired again in a couple of years. Cut across the grain, they will hold their shape for at least 10 years.

Wedges are cut from a piece of oak or mountain ash. Their width is 5-7 mm: depending on the diameter of the prepared pins, and their thickness is 1.5-2 mm. They are then driven along the fibers, wedging the hairpin and achieving excellent fixation.

If, as a result of the bulkhead, the hole becomes uneven, level it with a file, or with a drill. But try not to make it wider. Coat the seat with wood glue (it must be of good quality), drive in the pins. They fit well with the glue. Then use a screwdriver to make a groove along the fibers, into which insert the cut wedge, and hammer it in. Cut off the excess with a sharp knife so that everything is even.

So we change all connections, constantly controlling the geometry of the sashes. After everything is assembled, the flaps should be quite stiff, but do not wobble them too much: the glue has not yet dried.

After all operations, the sash can be of different heights. We level them so that they are the same inside and out. Now we take the frame and put the sashes into it. They are definitely less than necessary. To make them sit tightly, glue strips of plywood of suitable thickness and width onto the frame on liquid nails.

All parts (and the frame) are laid on a flat surface, the load is placed on them. You can lay it on a flat floor, on top of several boards, and below them a solid load: about 100 kg. Leave to dry and level for two or three days.

After the glue has dried, we bring the frames to the norm, where necessary, by sanding and making notches. We mark the places for fastening the fittings, we make recesses for it.

Installing the seal

How to lay a seal in windows using Swedish technology, the shapes of these seals are described in detail in the video.

Impregnation

There are various ready-made impregnations. How to use them is described in the instructions. There is nothing complicated in the process: under certain conditions, you need to apply the composition and wait until it dries. There can be several treatments, one or different compositions.

But there are craftsmen who are sure that the polymers included in the impregnation deteriorate the thermal insulation properties of wood. They work only and exclusively with drying oil. Moreover, there are two processing methods: cold and hot.

With the cold method, the heated drying oil is applied with a brush to the frame and sash of the window. Leave until completely absorbed and dry, when the surface becomes non-sticky to the touch. The treatment is repeated four times. Such processing guarantees the excellent condition of wood and paintwork for 5 years. After you have to repaint.

Linseed oil impregnation is a great way to preserve wood

During hot processing, drying oil is heated in a vessel to high temperatures. This occupation is fire hazardous - drying oil can flare up. Therefore, we first prepare a piece of tarpaulin, felt, etc., with which it will be possible to cover the vessel. It is better to heat it on a heat gun or hot air from an electric stove (not on a stove, but above it): sometimes it is necessary to quickly remove the heat source in order to avoid a fire. Because the fire is not suitable.

After some time, the drying oil begins to bubble: air, moisture comes out. There is one important point: when the bubbles are already going, it happens that the smell of drying oil increases sharply. The heat source must be removed quickly. If you hesitate, the vapors will flare up, a mat will come in handy. If you have time in time, it will pass without incidents. Heating can be continued after a few minutes. When the bubbles are gone, you can saturate the parts.

The part is immersed in a heated drying oil for 3-5 minutes. At the same time, it is convenient to work with a crochet: they can hold it and pull it out conveniently. After pulling it out, carefully put it on a clean place to dry. Do not grasp the parts with your hands. Even in mittens: hot linseed oil will soak them in an instant, and burn your hands. The burn will be serious: the temperature is about 130 o C.

Craftsmen say that after such processing, wood can stand even on the street for decades. With good paint, its renewal will be required no earlier than 10-15 years. Like this.

Putty and sandpaper

Now the frames are rigid and fear nothing. Now we putty and sand them. For significant damage, we use a coarse filler with sawdust. For a thinner and softer finish. If you will paint the window white, take white putties. They will not be visible through the paint.

The technique is simple: fill cracks and crevices with putty, then remove the excess. Metal spatulas of small width are used more often. But in some places it is more convenient to work with rubber: they are designed for grouting when laying tiles, but they are also convenient to work with putty.

After the composition has dried, take a medium-grain sandpaper (sander) and clean off the excess, if any. At the same time, go through the entire frame, bringing everything back to normal, leveling the irregularities. Then, with fine-grain sandpaper, everything is leveled to an ideal (as far as possible) state.

Dyeing

You choose the type of paint yourself, based on your preferences. The only thing you can advise is whether to take glossy or semi-glossy ones. They retain their color for a long time. This is especially true for white paints. Surfaces painted with matte white paint quickly turn gray: they have a porous structure, which gives them a “matte finish”. These pores are clogged with microscopic dust particles, which give a grayish tint. Therefore, for perfectly white windows, take a gloss or semi-gloss.

The first layer is a primer. This is one part of paint diluted with two parts of a suitable solvent. After the primer is dry, the base paint can be applied. There will be several layers, so everything will be painted over.

Do not take a lot of paint on the brush: there will be drips, which are not easy to deal with. You dip, squeeze, rub well. You need to move from top to bottom without changing direction. Only in this way will the layer be even. Apply the first layer by brushing from left to right, the second from top to bottom, and the third layer from right to left.

Each subsequent layer is applied only after the previous one is completely dry. If after the first application of the paint there are streaks and irregularities, after the paint has dried, take the sandpaper and clean them. Just don't rub it down to wood. Make the second layer more accurate, but here you can still sand it a little. The third should be flawless. Once the paint is dry, your DIY refurbished window can be reattached.

Glazing

Installing glass is not the most difficult thing, but it is responsible. Prepare a transparent moisture-proof and frost-proof sealant. You coat the seat with it, insert the glass. On the other hand, they are pressed with glazing beads. They are also treated with sandpaper, impregnated and painted. Then they coat the glass with a sealant around the perimeter, press the glazing beads and fix them with small carnations.

Replacing rotted sections of a wooden frame

If the site is rotten, you can help grief in two ways:

• cover with a special reinforced putty, recreating the required shape;
• remove the damaged area by inserting a patch in its place.

A surefire way to eliminate rot is to cut out the damaged area

The second option would be more correct in terms of durability: here it is possible to remove the entire infected area, ensuring that the rot does not spread further. The technique is simple. Saw out the affected area, grabbing some healthy wood. Cut out a piece of exactly the same shape. Lubricate the joints with wood glue, insert the patch, level it, if necessary, fix it, leave it until the glue is completely dry.

Then it is necessary to putty the seam, sand and paint. Everything. The window frame (or sash) has been restored.

But it is not always possible (or willing) to cut out a damaged piece of wood. Then you can use an epoxy putty with reinforcing fiber. Once dry, it is tough enough to keep its shape.

The first step is to separate everything that can be removed. All the dust and rot. We blow off the dust, where possible, we get to a healthy tree. If you plan to use the restored frame for a long time, treatment with antiseptic impregnations is necessary: ​​to prevent the spread of rot as much as possible.

After that, the composition is applied to the damaged part with a spatula. Putties of this type have a rather thick consistency, you can mold any configuration. Give a shape close to the desired one, but slightly larger in size: after drying, you can sand and level the level. It takes about a day to dry, but the exact time depends on the composition, temperature and humidity of the air. After sanding and leveling, it remains only to paint the window. Then nothing will be noticeable at all.

Outcomes

You do not need any super-abilities to repair and restore wooden windows with your own hands. Not the most sophisticated tools are required, accuracy, patience and a fairly decent amount of time.