Even a beginner can sheathe a house with siding. It is enough to know the procedure and some of the nuances of installation. If as facing material you decide to choose vinyl siding, do-it-yourself installation is more than simple.

PVC siding is flexible and pliable, which reduces the likelihood of panel damage and injury. Step by step guide will allow you to sheathe the facade of the house with sading even without construction experience.

Based on the material below, you will learn how to properly attach the siding to the wall.

For greater clarity, each stage is accompanied by photos, diagrams, drawings and videos.

Please note this installation instruction vinyl siding, the installation of which is different from the installation of metal siding.

• Knife. Who does not know what to cut vinyl siding: vinyl is a soft material, it can be easily cut with a sharp knife. To do this, you need to mark the groove on the panel. Bend-unbend the strip several times. As a result, it will break along the intended cut.

• Electric jigsaw. Used instead of a knife. It gives a more beautiful cut, and also allows you to speed up the process of preparing panels to size.

• Drill or hammer drill. With their help, it is convenient to enlarge the holes for fastening hardware or punch new ones.

• Screwdriver. For twisting hardware.
• Building level. The laser is very convenient to use.
• Roulette.

Good to know. If you are going to use a grinder to cut siding panels, this is permissible. However, keep in mind that at high speeds, the sheet cut will begin to heat up and melt. This will deform it. Therefore, use a low power grinder.

1. When starting to clad your home with vinyl siding, always keep in mind that this material has a high coefficient of linear expansion. This means that a gap of 5-7 mm must be maintained between the starter planks, as well as between the rows and planks. And if the installation is carried out at temperatures below -10 ° C (which, in general, is unacceptable from the point of view common sense, but for domestic practice it is quite usual) - then the gaps should be at least 10 mm.


2. There must be a gap between work surface material and fasteners. Below we will talk about this in more detail.


3. Vinyl siding should be allowed to rest for at least a couple of hours when outside temperature before the start of installation work.


4. In no case should the siding be screwed through with a self-tapping screw. This approach to installation can lead to cracking of the sheet of material. But, if such a need arises, fix the sheet not where the nail holes are punched, you must first drill a hole for the hardware, and only then fix the sheet or additional element.

Despite the fact that fastening siding with self-tapping screws is most common in domestic practice, you can still use fasteners such as nails and staples.

Installation of vinyl siding - instructions

Generally, the installation of vinyl siding can be divided into several stages:

1. anchorage starting bar;
2. installation of vertical strips (corners and H-connector);
3. installation of siding panels;
4. framing window and doorways siding;
5. installation of vinyl siding around the arch;
6. arrangement of protruding elements;
7. fastening of finishing strips;
8. installation of soffit;
9. gable trim.

Good to know: Attaching siding to metal or wooden lathing, or even to the base of the wall surface, always starts from the bottom. This allows each subsequent panel to be placed above the previous one. Thus, it is achieved additional protection surface or insulation against moisture.

1. Setting the starting bar (starting strip)

Installation of siding panels always takes place using a starter bar. It is attached along the perimeter of the building (or that part of it that is planned to be sheathed).

The starting strip is closed by a series of panels, so there are no special requirements for it. It can be joined from scraps or a strip of a different color can be used.

The starting bar sets the tone for all work. Better to spend more time leveling it up than trying to fix even minimum slope in the course of installation work.

Before you start fixing it, you need to designate the place of the future fixing.

To do this, drive a nail (screw in a self-tapping screw) at the lowest level of the wall.

The distance from the nail to the ground should be equal to the width of the starter bar.

Next, pull the thread between the nails. Check the correct thread tension with building level... Next, using chalk, draw a line between the nails along the thread. It will mark the line of the starting strip anchorage.

The more often you use the level, the more correct and smooth the installation of the siding will be.

However, at least every third row of ordinary siding strips should be checked for deviations from the level.

Then fix the bar.

How to properly attach vinyl siding to the wall

When installing vinyl elements, you need to properly mount the fasteners. Namely, it is important to adhere to the following conditions:

- the distance between two adjacent self-tapping screws should be about 250-300 mm.

You need to twist the hardware or hammer in a nail strictly perpendicular to the plane.

- fix the screws only in the middle of the nail hole, which has an oval shape, it is this trick that allows the panel to slide when expanding. The right way shown in the figure. - the self-tapping screw is not completely twisted. A gap of 1 mm must be maintained between the surface of the material and the screw head.

Is achieved required clearance two ways.

First, you can attach a coin.

Secondly, you can twist it all the way, and then loosen it by one turn. There must always be a gap of 5-7 mm between two starting bars located in the neighborhood.

The gap compensates for linear expansion of the material.

The installation of the strip at the corners is not complete. Since a special corner strip is used to arrange the corner. Using staples as fasteners, you must also maintain a gap of 1 mm.

Good to know. Some builders recommend that you immediately install a starter bar on window and door blocks... However, this is not worth doing, because the need for it does not always arise. The dimensions of the window are not so ideal that the ordinary siding strips during installation were just at the level of the strip.

2. Fastening of vertical strips - corners and H-connector

2.1 Fastening the strips

The corners are set before starting the installation of the main strips, and it is in them that the ordinary panels are started.

The vinyl corner mount also has its own characteristics:

First, the angle is set 5-7 mm without touching the ground. When heated, the corner will expand vertically and the gap left will prevent it from deforming.

Secondly, it is important to properly fix the screws. As you can see in the picture, the corner is attached starting from the upper nail hole. Moreover, the self-tapping screw is twisted into its upper part. On this self-tapping screw (nail), the whole corner seems to hang in the air.

Thus, the material can only expand downward and sideways.

Others and last self-tapping screw twist in the same way as the starting strip - clearly in the middle of the nail hole.

Third, the bottom edges of the corner are trimmed to the width of the starting bar. This avoids deformation of the material when heated. It will look as shown in the figure.

Selected cases in vinyl siding installation technology

The length of the corner plank is up to 4 meters. But you may need to lengthen the corner.

Mount the lower corner strip, then cut off the fastening points on the sides from the upper one and "put" on the lower one, leaving a 5 mm gap for compression under the influence of temperature.

The overlap is 20-25 mm.

The figure shows how to lengthen the bar

Good to know:

• The joints at the corners and the H-connector must be at the same level. This will do appearance at home more harmonious.
• The upper corner strip is mounted on the lower one, and not vice versa. This will protect the corner from water infiltration.

Since the corners of vinyl siding are flexible, they can be used to trim obtuse and sharp corners of a building.

For an obtuse angle - the profile must be pressed down, for an acute angle - narrowed.

For the inner corner, the procedure is the same.

Considering the cost of the corners, you can save on them if you mount two J-strips in their place. The installation process is shown in the figure.

2.4. Installation of H-profile

This type of work also does not take much time and effort. It is important here to correctly calculate the location of the plank. Fastening is carried out in the same way as corners.

• first, the lower bar is mounted, and then the upper one;
• if lengthening is necessary, pieces of 5-7 mm are cut with perforation (to compensate for the expansion);
• overlap the profiles.

Keep in mind that the starter bars should be adjacent to the H-connector, not vice versa.

Good to know. You can do without installing an H-shaped profile in this case, the siding strips will overlap.

The photo shows what the wall should look like before starting the installation of ordinary siding panels.

3. Installation of ordinary siding panels

Let's make a reservation right away that you can fix ordinary panels in a circle, or you can finish one wall. From the point of view of siding installation technology, this does not matter.

Installation takes place in several steps:

3.1. The first strip of siding is inserted into the vertical grooves of the corner or H-shaped profile and secured with a self-tapping screw exactly in the center of the nail holes.

In this case, hardware is attached from the center of the panel to the edges, towards the vertical strips.

Good to know.
To make it more convenient to insert the strip, it must be slightly bent outward.

As already mentioned, the siding panel is wound into the outer or inner corners. In the event that you use a budget option installation, equip inner panel in the ways shown in the figure.

When doing this, do not forget to leave a gap for expansion.

3.2. The siding panel must be lowered to the starting strip and snapped into place. To do this, you need the lane lock to catch on the starting bar. Do not under any circumstances "pull" the panel. Since in this case the radius of the panel will be extended and the locks will be deformed. How to install the siding panel correctly - see the picture.

Good to know.
If, after the lock of the next strip snaps into the lock of the previous one, the panel can be moved horizontally, then its installation was done according to the rules.

3.3. After the panel is installed, it can be secured with hardware.

3.4. All the remaining rows, with the exception of the last one, are performed in the same sequence.

If you need to connect the panels to each other, and you have not provided for the H-shaped profile or you do not like the way it looks, you can do it as follows.

• First, remove lock connection from the panel.
• Second, place two sheets of paper on top of each other.
• Thirdly, put the trimmed part of the sheet under the lock.

The photo shows how it looks in practice.

For your information:

• Some manufacturers produce panels without locking at the end of the siding sheet.
• The panels at the joints are not sealed.
• The mounting line can be flat, or it can be offset.

4. Installation of near-window siding strips near window and door openings

There are two possible ways of positioning openings relative to the wall surface.

• in one plane. In this case, the openings are simply sheathed around the perimeter with J-profiles and the siding panel is already started in them.


• with the arrangement of the slope. With this arrangement, the panels are installed in the manner shown in the figure.

In practice, it looks like the one shown in the photo.

It is also not difficult to bring the panel into such a structure. Since vinyl is flexible enough, the panel just flexes slightly and fits into the J-profile.

The key here is to cut the siding strip correctly.

Docking lugs are holes in a strip of material intended for fastening hardware. They are made with a punch.

5. Installation of vinyl siding around the arch

If your house has openings that end in an arch, this is not a problem for installing plastic siding.

Finishing the arch with vinyl siding differs from the finishing of a conventional opening only in the way of mounting the J-strip.

The flexible J-bar greatly simplifies the finishing of arched openings. For this, notches are made on the profile and the smaller the radius, the more often the notches should be made.

The process is clearly shown in the photo.

Installation of siding around protruding objects occurs by cutting the strip and overlapping it.

7. Installation of finishing strips and the last row of siding panels

It is done like this - first, the finish bar is fixed.

Then the distance from the last row is measured from it. This is the amount that the last siding panel should match.

The strip is bent horizontally in an arc and is inserted into the lock and the finish bar.

8. Installation of siding soffit

8.1. With a wind bar

If the frontal board is small, it can be closed with a wind bar. To do this, a finishing strip is mounted on the upper edge of the frontal board, and the wind strip is attached so that its upper part is fixed with a finishing profile.

Then a J-profile is attached to the wall and a soffit is installed between it and the wind bar.

In this case, the soffit can be installed in one of two ways, shown in the diagram.

In this way, installation is carried out if the frontal board is wider than the wind bar.

Wherein outside corner is mounted on the edge of the frontal board, and the J-profile is on both sides of it at the required distance. The soffit is cut the right size and is wound between one of the corner parts and the J-bar.

The finish on the second side is similar.

It is not recommended to mount a dark-colored soffit in this way, since it is highly susceptible to fading on the frontal strip.

9. Installation of the gable with siding

The installation of the gable is no different from the installation of ordinary siding strips. It is done as follows:

9.1. installation of the starting strip. It occurs in full accordance with the rules described above.

Good to know:
All the remnants of the J-profile that you have accumulated during your work can be used to finish the gable. Still under roofing material it is not visible.

This work is done as shown in the photo.

To do this, the J-planks must be placed on top of each other and the front part must be cut diagonally. Do not forget about the gap.

9.5. Preparation of planks.

In order to cut the siding strip correctly, you need to measure the angle of inclination of the roof slope.

This can be done using a simple technique: put a piece of a strip of material to the surface of the pediment, and the whole panel in a level with a J-profile.

Then you need to draw a sharpened pencil over the overlap of the sheets. The result will be the presence exact angle tilt. Next, you should remove a short piece and cut off the siding along a straight line.

The process is presented more clearly in the drawing above.

Cut a corner of the last siding panel and feed it into the J-profile.

This is an exceptional case in the installation of vinyl siding, in which a piece of hardware or a nail is hammered into the panel through and through.

Installation of vinyl siding - video instruction

Conclusion

In this article, we tried to reveal all the features of installing vinyl siding. We hope now you know how to mount the facade siding with your own hands, as well as the components for it.

Siding, which is used to decorate the house from the outside, is a time-tested and reliable solution that will not only provide a special aesthetics, but also protect the building from adversity. Suffice it to recall that the space between the siding and the wall can be filled with insulation, which will contribute to significant savings on heating even in severe frosts.

Vinyl siding is made up of many elements, and one of them is the outside corner, which is officially called the outside corner profile. The importance of this detail is difficult to overestimate, since without it, joining the siding panels would be too difficult a task. The installers had to look for solutions based on available materials. What is initially not easy, since it is simple construction tool define different sizes with great precision is very problematic.

A few words about siding and its fastening

The main advantages of siding are:

• ensuring an appropriate level of heat and sound insulation;
• excellent aesthetic characteristics, the ability to create a coating like wood, stone and other natural materials;
• the ease with which the installation is carried out;
• the presence of parts that allow you to attach siding to any surface.

What is the external corner profile for?

The siding is attached to the outside of the building, not that it is very difficult, but with fairly good accuracy (see photo). Installation of siding panels does not make sense if it is not possible to withstand the outer corner with certain requirements.

The outer corner is not only a given, which is part of the structure of a house or other building. This is also one of the names of the outdoor corner profile, which is designed to provide a smooth transition of siding cladding between walls perpendicular to each other. It should be clarified that the outer corner is useful not only for 90 ° angles, but also for obtuse and acute angles. It is enough just to bend the elements of the profile in the desired direction, and you can fasten the siding.

Outside corner, together with the inside corner and mounting plate are those elements thanks to which the siding can be set exactly both horizontally and vertically. Accuracy in this regard will make the house visually even, observing all angular relationships, organically blending into the surrounding space.

Following from the placement features, the outer corner cannot be only fasteners, it is also important decorative element... For example, if the color of the siding and the outer corner does not match, this is not necessarily a mistake, it can also be an original design decision.

Color solutions

Outside corner can usually be purchased complete with siding panels. In this case, there will be no need to accurately match the color of the element. If the kit comes from a single source, the siding, outside corner and inner corner will have exactly the same color.

But if you try to choose the outer corner profile a little different in color and texture than the siding panels, you may get enough original design... The main thing is not to get carried away with contrast, since a sharp contrast of colors of home decoration elements will often not look very attractive.

An interesting option is an outer corner with a stone or log pattern. Stone and wood are natural materials for building a house, their imitation will look natural. And in symbiosis with vinyl sliding, such a profile can become the basis for a uniquely beautiful external design at home.

Ways of attaching the outer corner and its design

The house does not always have dimensions and angles that would correspond to the concepts of perpendicularity and parallelism. Sometimes the angles can differ significantly from the usual 90 °. How, in this case, to fix the outer corner, into which the siding will then be placed?

In fact, the answer to this question is simple. As you can see in photo 2, the outer corner profile has a complex cross-section. But it is specially made very flexible in order to provide trouble-free docking with sliding panels and installation on very wide range corners of the house. Even being strongly curved in any direction, the profile does not lose its mechanical characteristics and does not create overpressure on siding panels.

The way of fixing the profile depends on the material from which the house is built. For wood, self-tapping screws of a certain length are enough, while there is no need to drill holes if the wood is soft enough. For a house made of brick, stone or concrete, it is necessary to drill holes for plastic dowels. The nail holes on the profile are usually placed quite often, and they themselves are much larger than a nail or a self-tapping screw, so that special precision in the fastening process is not needed.

In order to fix the outer corner profile at angles exceeding 90 °, it is necessary to press with your fingers at the base so that the main corner is enlarged to the required one. After that, you can proceed to fastening. If the corner of the wall is less than a straight one, it is necessary to press on the edge of the profile, and then hold it until it is fully secured.

When installing the corner profile, remember to maintain verticality. For this, either a traditional water level or a more modern laser level is used.

Vinyl Outside Corner Profile is usually thin and should be handled with care not to apply extra effort, especially in the direction of tension.

You can cut the outer corner profile with the same tool then the siding panels. Scissors for metal, a hacksaw or other cutting tool from the set of an amateur master.

After watching the video, you can get acquainted with the features of the external corner profile, the process of its installation and the process of installing sliding panels in more detail.

conclusions

The outer corner intended for facing the house with siding is a material that is available to non-professionals to work with. Its selection, cutting and fastening do not require special training of the installer.

The outer corner of the siding has its own nuances during the installation process. Not everything is as simple as it might seem at first glance. Basically setting the outside corner for everyone modern species siding is the same. The main thing is to know how to do it correctly. The outer corner for siding is mounted according to certain rules, in strict accordance with the instructions.

First, the outer corner must be cut to a certain length. This is where the process of installing the outer corner of the siding begins. There are a number of installation features. Let's take a look at them using vinyl siding as an example. this type is the most common today.

Preparation and features of the material

First, it's worth talking about how to prepare everyone necessary materials, which will help to mount the outer corner. The outer corner itself must be cut strictly to size. Its length is determined by the top of the corner and the cornice. In this case, it is necessary to leave 1/3 part for the thermal gap. This has been said more than once, but it is worth repeating that siding is made of a material that has a sufficiently large coefficient of thermal expansion.

To compensate for it, it is imperative to leave appropriate gaps during the installation process. This is the only way to make competent compensation. Next, you need to start installing the fasteners. It can be a self-tapping screw or a nail. Special staples are also often used.

Fasteners fit into the top of the perforated holes. However, they should be on both sides of the corner. Once installed, the corner should hang vertically on two nails. Next, you need to think about how the temperature compensation will be carried out with the fasteners. Here, all the elements should be installed at a certain distance relative to the starting ones, and they should not be screwed or nailed tightly, but with a small gap. Before proceeding directly to the installation of the corner profiles, all upper and lower nail strips should be trimmed.

At the same time, they are cut from above by the size of the thermal gap with the addition of the height of the final bar. From below, this distance is determined by 5-6 mm. This is the only way to ensure that the lower plank will not hang down due to the siding. In some cases, the corners are covered with a lid. Then you need to cut the lower nail strip by 2/3 of the temperature gap.

If an angular profile was purchased that is smaller in size than the height of the corner, then you will have to dock the two corners together. In order for the picture to be of better quality, it is necessary that all corner profiles in the corners are connected at the same height.

Three types of joining of corner profiles

Installation of the outer corner of the siding often means joining two profiles together if they are not sufficiently high, that is, the length. There are currently 3 main ways to do this. The simplest and most common method is overlapping profiles. The upper profile should lie a few centimeters from above on the lower one. Here you should eliminate all unnecessary structural elements that will interfere with installation. These are the connecting elements of the siding.

There are only two thin plastic siding strips that will form the corner. First you need to install the bottom corner. It is fastened with self-tapping screws. Further, the upper profile is attached to it from above. The result is a structure that perfectly protects the walls of the house from rain, snow, etc.

The profile cut should be equal to or slightly higher than the temperature gap. After one profile is laid on top of another, an overlap should be obtained, which will be equal to the temperature gap with the addition of 20 mm.

The second method involves joining the corners using a special overlay. In this case, the profiles are placed on the same plane relative to each other. They must be connected using a special strip that can be cut from the same corner profiles.

Next, the overlay must be sequentially attached first to the lower profile, and then to the upper one. This results in a more beautiful connection in terms of aesthetics. However, in engineering complexity, it loses to the first option.

In addition, at the junction, moisture can get on the walls, which will lead to their early destruction. That is why this method is used much less often than the one described above.

The third method also involves installing an overlay. At the same time, it should look like an ordinary profile, that is, the connecting elements are not removed from it. This method has its drawbacks. In many ways, they are similar to the previous version.

Whichever method is used, it is necessary to provide for a temperature gap between the elements to be connected. Do not forget that an overlap of several tens of millimeters should form here.

Installation of the outer corner of the siding

In some cases, the outer corner needs to be closed. For this, a special cover is made. A part is cut out of the rail, which in length will correspond to the double width of the outer corner. In the center of the part, you need to cut a 90 ° angle. Then the lid is folded and cut. Then the finished part must be nailed to the outer corner of the building. As a result, a kind of channel is formed into which the part is installed. outer corner... Then it is screwed into place with self-tapping screws.

When preparing the corner profile for fasteners, it is necessary to cut off all unnecessary elements that may rest against the cover parts after installation.

This is done to avoid deformations of the corner profile as a result of thermal expansion. From below, these profile details need to be cut by 2/3, and from above - by 1/3 of the thermal gap.

Most often, the cover is made from the remnants of the corner profile. At the same time, its corners are cut, and all unnecessary is bent inward. It is necessary to fasten all these parts to each other by means of special fasteners. Otherwise, the lid may become loose. The most effective way the decoration of all corners is the use of four elements. Here it comes about a starting corner profile, two vinyl boards and a decorative corner bar... This will make the corners of the building more accentuated and can be decorated with a variety of colors.

The second method of installation is to use two straight lines instead of a solid corner profile. In this case, a type-setting profile is obtained that will look no worse than a whole one. However, in this case, it is worth talking about a lower cost.

It is not always advisable to use this approach in the formation of corners. This method can only be used when it comes to construction and cladding in areas where dry weather prevails. Otherwise, it is best to use a solid profile, which is more airtight and durable. It will protect the walls of the building from destructive moisture getting on their surface, which can quickly disable them.

Also, in most places, you can use type-setting elements instead of solid ones, and on the facade of the building you can use a solid corner profile. In this case, the aesthetics will not suffer much.

In this case, the fastening of type-setting elements is carried out exactly according to the same rules as for whole ones. From the bottom, you need to cut off 2/3 of the width of the starting strip, and remove 1/3 from the top to form a thermal gap. All nail strips must be trimmed by the size of the protruding elements. The size of the thermal clearances is not the same for all corner pieces. The composition of the material from which the siding is made can be different. This only applies to the vinyl version.

Here you need to leave gaps, which are provided for by the instructions attached to the material. If we talk about wood, metal and other types of siding, then sometimes it is also necessary to ensure the presence of gaps to compensate for thermal expansion.

So, the outer corner of the siding is attached in strict accordance with the instructions above. This makes it possible to produce correct installation element that performs enough important functions... The main thing is to always remember that temperature compensation is indispensable. The material will ensure the integrity of the structure throughout its entire service life.

Cut the corner profile to the required length, leaving 1/3 of the thermal gap between the corner top and the cornice or soffit. Lower the bottom edge of the corner pieces 2/3 of the thermal gap below the level of the bottom edge of the starting strip. Begin to install the hardware (nail, staple, or screw) at the top of the topmost nail hole on both sides of the corner, securing it. The piece should hang vertically from the two nails. The rest of the fasteners should be installed in the center of the holes at a distance of 20 to 40 cm from each other (Fig. 25, a). This will allow for possible vertical expansion.

Do not fasten too tightly. Before installing the corner profiles, the top and bottom of the panels must be trimmed with nail strips. From above, the height of the undercut should be equal to the height of the final strip (F- or J-profile, depending on the soffit design) plus 1/3 of the thermal gap for vertical elements... From below, the nail strip must be cut by 5-6 mm, just so that it does not stick out from under the siding, or 2/3 of the thermal gap plus the height of the J-profile nail strip, if the corner is covered with a "cover". If the height of the corner is greater than the length of the vinyl corner profile, two profiles are joined. All corner profiles at all corners of the house are joined at the same height.

I know of three ways of joining corner profiles. The first one is the most common. Overlapping joining (Fig. 25, b). The upper profile is put on top of the lower one. To do this, on the upper corner profile with metal scissors, cut off the nail bar together with the figured elements of the profile, leaving only two flat strips, which form the corner. First, the lower corner profile is mounted, then, on top of it, the upper one. It turns out a knot protected from rain and snow. The main conditions that must be met are that the height of the cut-off part of the profile should not be less than the full temperature gap, and the overlap of the panels should be equal to the full temperature gap plus 20 mm. The work is done as follows: on the ground or on a workbench, the corner profiles are superimposed on each other with an overlap of 20 mm; in the place of the overlap of the nail strips on the upper profile, one temperature gap is measured and marks are made; both strips of the upper profile are cut off according to the received marks (fig. 26). The second way, docking through the pad (Figure 25 c). Both panels, top and bottom, are installed in the same plane. So that during the temperature movement of the panels, there is no gap inside the panels at the junction of the panels, a vinyl patch is placed, cut from a piece of the corner profile. The cover is glued to one of the panels, usually to the bottom. The knot is considered prettier than the knot according to the first option. I'm not sure about the beauty: there is no comrade in taste and color, but from an engineering point of view, the node loses.

Firstly, it is more complicated, and secondly, it can allow moisture to pass into the skin. The third option is a continuation of the second, with the only difference that the nail strips are not completely cut off at the lining, due to which it is attached to the wall like a regular profile (Figure 25 g). In the second and third versions, they adhere to the same rules as in the first, that is, a temperature gap must be left between the nail strips of the joined profiles, and the overlap over the overlays must be at least 2-2.5 cm.

Sometimes it is necessary to close the outer corner from the top or bottom. For the manufacture of the cover, cut from the trim of the J-rail a piece equal to twice the width of the outer corner (counting along the base corner piece). Cut a 90 degree corner in the center. Then cut off the edges of the batten on each side as shown in Figure 27. Fold the J-batten down the center and nail to the outside corner of the house. Then insert the outer corner piece into the formed channel and nail. If the width of the J-rail is not enough to install the corner piece in it, then the inner folded part must be cut off, thereby increasing its width. Before mounting on the corner panel, trim the nail strips so that they do not come into contact with the cover mount during thermal expansion. From the bottom, the nail strips are trimmed 2/3 from the top by 1/3 of the thermal gap plus the height of the J-panel nail strip. The same gaps should be made inside the covers, between the bottom of the folded J-panel and the end of the corner profile. You can also make covers from a piece of the corner profile itself. In this case, vertical cuts are made in the profile and the planes are bent inward. The way is not good, without additional fastening of bent "petals" the knot turns out to be loose.

Corner decoration methods can be completely different. A bright, eye-catching, embossed corner is made of four elements: an angular starting profile, two vinyl boards and a decorative corner insert (Fig. 28, a). The corner is mainly used for design reasons because it allows wide and narrow vinyl boards to be used together or separately to emphasize the corners. In addition, all elements of this corner can be solved in different colors.

The corner can also be mounted according to the budget option, using two cheaper elements instead of a solid corner, the name of which is the j-profile. The mounted corner turns out to be inlaid (Fig, 28. b), but from a distance it looks no worse than a solid one, but it costs almost 2 times cheaper. This does not mean at all that even with a budget trim option, you need to replace all solid corners with type-setting. - it is not always advisable to carry out such a replacement. For example, a one-piece external facade corner is both more aesthetic and more airtight than a type-setting one, and there is no need to change it on the main facade. But the internal corners, as well as external ones, for example, in the backyard or when sheathing the porch, can be replaced with type-setting not only is possible, but also necessary. When installing corners from type-setting elements, whether it is a four- or two-piece corner, follow the same rules as for a conventional corner profile. That is, at the top, a gap is left to the cornice or soffit, equal to 1/3 of the total temperature gap, at the bottom it is released 2/3 below the lower edge of the starting strip. The nail strips are trimmed depending on which of the cladding elements will adjoin them. Check the specific size of the temperature gaps with the instructions for the siding or ask the seller. If you are not given instructions for installation or the seller is hesitant to answer - do not buy this siding. Incorrectly set gaps will only lead to a loss of money.

One of the most difficult and responsible installation procedures is the installation of siding corners (both external and internal). And this complexity is associated not with increased physical efforts that must be spent, not with the intricacy of tasks or the inability to understand the sequence of their implementation. Special attention you need to pay attention to the accuracy of measurements and the accuracy of cutting parts.

Subtleties in the installation process

The corners are mounted immediately after the installation of the lathing is completed. Among all the siding elements in finished form they especially draw attention to themselves. If the slightest mistake was made during installation, it immediately catches the eye, therefore, it is necessary to approach the installation of the corners with all responsibility.

After reading this post, you will not make common mistakes and will be ready for any surprises that lie in wait for the installer.

When describing the process of cladding a building with siding, it is constantly mentioned about an unusual property of the material from which siding panels and finishing strips are made. It has a fairly large coefficient of thermal expansion. This feature also affects the fastening rules, which must be strictly observed. It will not be superfluous to recall that after attaching the siding, the panels should not be clamped in order to be able to move from side to side.

How to make measurements correctly?

Let's start by describing how to properly attach the outer corner profile. First of all, you need to install eaves spotlights or at least mark the place of their installation. Without this, you will not be able to accurately measure the distance that must be left between the edge of the corner profile and the bottom plane of the eaves.

You also need to decide on the bottom edge of the corner of the building. Options when there is a protruding plinth or installed structures, we will describe further. Now let's consider the order of facing the outer corners with a flat or sunken base.

The correct measurement of the height of the corner is done as follows: the distance between the cornice and the lower plane of the starting bar is measured and 3 mm is added. The profile is attached to the corner close to the soffit and lowered by 3 mm, leaving a gap for thermal expansion.

Accordingly, the lower edge of the corner will drop 6 mm below the starting bar. This will be enough so that, in frosty weather, compression does not expose the inside of the fastener, which greatly spoils the appearance of the building. For the same purpose, the perforated strips of the corner profiles are cut from the edges by 5-6 mm so that they are not visible when the material expands.

What materials for installing siding corners to choose?

You choose the fasteners at your discretion. Self-tapping screws, nails and staples are common among installers. The most unreliable fastening is the staples.

They are used exclusively when wooden crate, and in the case of strong gusts of wind, they can simply be pulled out and warped at the same time the siding. If there is no stock of material, repairs can turn into a problem. And the strength of the connection loses its strength over time. The nails hold firmly and for a long time. But, as we remember, you cannot nail too tightly, but you must leave a gap between the nail head and the perforated strip.

Agree, it is difficult to make a millimeter gap with a hammer. Based on this, the optimal fastener is a self-tapping screw with a press washer. Installation is done quickly and without additional devices... First, the screw is tightened with a certain force, set on the screwdriver, and then unscrewed one turn. After a few screws, this method becomes a habit.

Attach the profile starting from the top of the outer or inner corner. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the upper part of the uppermost perforated holes.

Then you should carefully check the correctness of the angle setting: whether the part hangs evenly along the entire length, whether the gaps for thermal changes are exactly maintained, including whether the starting strips do not fit the perforation at a distance of less than 6 mm.

If everything is done correctly, you can fasten the entire corner by screwing in self-tapping screws exactly in the center of the perforations at a distance of no more than 40 cm from each other.

In cases where the length of the vinyl profile is less than the height of the corner of the building, they are installed in two parts using the "overlap" method. Be sure to place the upper part above the lower one so that moisture and dust do not get inside. The size of the overlap is at least 20 mm. The total length of the two parts must correspond to the distance between the eaves and the bottom plane of the starting strip, plus 3 mm (compression-expansion gap) and plus 20 mm overlap.

The easiest way to prepare the connection is to perform on a flat horizontal surface. Lay the two corner pieces as for installation with an overlap of 20 mm, mark the marks on the top piece at a distance of 6 mm from the edge of the bottom perforation.

Then cut the strips with the mounting holes according to the marks, leaving only front side profile. Further, according to all the rules, we first establish the lower part, and then the upper one. It is advisable to keep the dimensions of the additional parts the same when installing all corners, including internal ones.

Installation, docking and connection of profiles

There are several more ways to connect vertical profiles. Can be docked with a lining. The lower and upper parts of the corner are set according to all the rules in the same plane "end-to-end".

The front part is pre-cut from the remainder of the corner profile and glued to the bottom part from the inside. This method makes the view of the corner of the house more beautiful, but from an engineering point of view it loses - moisture can get inside the profile.

The third option differs from the previous one in that the perforated insert strips do not cut off completely, but leave central part and are fixed in the same way as the whole corner.

Only the edges of the planks are cut off at the rate of 20 mm overlap and 6 mm temperature gap. As a variety, it can be installed using the herringbone method, although this is unlikely to add to the density of the structure.

If you are dealing with a protruding plinth or are installing siding in the veranda area where the corner profile rests on the floor, you need to shorten vinyl corner by 6 mm.

In some cases, it becomes necessary to cover the edges of the outer corner at the top and bottom.

This possibility exists. A J-rail is usually used to close the bottom corner. A part is cut out of it, two widths of the outer plane of the outer corner.

To bend the resulting segment at a right angle, in the center with inside cut off an angle of 90 degrees, shorten on both sides outside 2.2 cm. Do not touch the fastening bar. Bending the resulting part, attach it to the outer corner of the crate.

In this case, it is necessary to take into account the thermal expansion and leave a gap between the lower edge of the corner profile and the bottom of the resulting cover.

To cover the top edge, you can use the same part as for the bottom edge, or you can make it from trimming a corner profile. Make incisions on one side and fold them inward.

It is advisable to fix the edges at the same time.
Who wants to save money, you can offer a budget option. Instead of an expensive outer corner, it is possible to accommodate two J-profiles. Such a replacement looks no worse than a solid one, but it costs an order of magnitude cheaper.