They gave away such a car adapter as unnecessary, I don't know if it is working or not, I have no place to check it and there is nothing to check it on. He was lying around for a week, he even began to think about sending him to the scrap, because he was constantly interfering. In addition, there is a whole bunch of wires in the house from a variety of equipment, and then there is this skein, which will definitely never come in handy. But at the last moment, I liked something with its shape, the body of this adapter. I decided to gut it and make a handle for an awl out of the body.

The adapter is very easy to disassemble, just unscrew the nut from the end that holds the fuse. Then remove the metal ring from the end of the halves.

After that, you can cut the body elements in half and remove the electronic insides from them.

I sent the board with the wire to the trash, but I decided not to throw out all this iron ammunition, they finish very nicely with themselves, the appearance of the handle.

I picked up a self-tapping screw for the awl of a suitable length, besides, they already have an almost finished shape, you just need to grind off the thread from it and the awl is ready. The main thing here is not to grab a raw material similar to a nail, but modern self-tapping screws for the most part are all hardened to some extent. I squeezed it into a screwdriver to evenly grind the spiral off it.

On an electric grinder, it is very easy to give the awl the desired shape, but unfortunately I do not have one. Therefore, I first tried to grind the self-tapping screw with a dremel. But after 5-10 minutes, this mini disk turned into dust almost completely, and the comb on the screw only slightly dulled.

I tried to grind it by hand with an ordinary bar. This is certainly not a rewarding business, to sharpen the red-hot pieces of iron by hand. But still, the turning process went much faster than with the rustling of a dremel.

A few hours of work (with smoke breaks, otherwise you can earn a teak) and our carnation is ready. :-)

In principle, you can poke around in a wall or chipboard with such an awl. But since I am making an awl not for my uncle, but for myself, I decided to bring it to a mirror shine. Here I acted in the same way as when sharpening this chisel, that is, from coarse-grained sandpaper to fine.

Actually, an almost finished awl, something like before and after. I decided to do the finishing polishing with zero after I glue the awl into the handle.

He broke down all the unnecessary and interfering partitions inside the halves and tried on the sting.

I drilled a hole in the cap that previously held the fuse.

To make it easier to center the sting in the handle, I wrapped it with copper wire. With the wire, it will not dangle in the hollow handle and will be easier to align. In addition, the wire will serve as a reinforcement for the epoxy resin.

I sealed the holes from the former contacts and the LED with tape.

Then he covered all the cracks with plasticine through which the epoxy could seep.

From the plasticine, he erected the sides around the hole through which the wire used to come out of the adapter. This hole will serve as a filler neck for the resin, well, and the sides so that during the pouring process, the entire handle does not shred with resin.

Mix and pour in epoxy. I tried to pour a little, so that the air from the handle had time to leave.

After the handle is filled with resin, we periodically look at the level and, if necessary, add resin almost to the very edge of the plasticine sides. In general, you should always leave a supply of resin in the neck, as it is always easier to grind off the excess than to add resin to the resulting shells.

The next day, I cleaned off the plasticine and took off the tape.

Since the plasticine also pressed on the top of the adhesive tape, on the former terminal terminals the resin took the form of a pressed adhesive tape. In principle, I knew that there would be depressions here, as I wrapped it with tape, but these holes do not really spoil the overall picture. It was necessary to wrap something hard, for example, a piece of plastic or tin.

I blew it off with a dremel and cleaned it with sandpaper.

After I cleaned off the plasticine and smoothed out all the irregularities with sandpaper, I carefully polished the awl to a shine with a zero.

Actually, the awl is ready.

A fragment of the video with this homemade awl.

Basically we use an awl to make small holes for seeding screws into a wall (chalk) or chipboard, when assembling furniture, etc. Therefore, I grinded the self-tapping screw to a minimum, practically only removed the spiral, well, and sharpened the tip a little, because we do not need a very thin awl. If you need a less powerful awl, then you should choose a self-tapping screw of a suitable size. This is if you want to go the same hard way in making it. If you can find a spring or spoke of a suitable thickness, then half the battle is already done. All that remains is to saw off, sharpen and come up with a handle for the awl. Well, the simplest thing is to buy a ready-made awl, I think its price will not be so astronomical.

Not a single instrument, except for an awl, has yet managed to win such popular love, expressed in numerous sayings, jokes and aphorisms. But finding the instrument itself on the shelves will be problematic. However, everyone can make an awl-hook or its other shape!

What awl is exchanged for soap - types of tools

Shiloh is one of those simplest tools, without which sometimes all work goes to hell. For example, you need to pierce a small hole in your leather jacket to carry a key ring, it seems like nothing complicated. But there is no sewing machine at hand, and then they start throwing about in search of a gypsy needle or a sharp object capable of making the desired hole, picking with these uncomfortable devices in the right place, followed by wounds to the palms, scratched skin and spoiled for the whole day mood.

The absence of an awl in the list of our home tools is explained by the not so frequent need for it, although if it were available, you would probably find more than one point of its application.

Plus, when such a need arises, you start thinking - well, you can't run to a hardware store for some kind of awl. That's when we have to buy some kind of tool, then we'll buy an awl ... True, when it comes to visiting a hardware store, no one will remember about an awl, until the moment when it is not needed again. And the situation described above is repeated again. This cycle can be stopped in just half an hour, by taking the time to create an awl.... By the way, in this case you will be completely confident in the quality of the tool! But first, let's figure out what this word can mean.

Awl as it is - from clerical to boot!

Stationery punch in a sense can be called a form of evolution of the stationery awl, because once not a single paper production could do without it. It was the clerical awl that was the first to feel the effect of progress, giving way to a more advanced hole maker. An awl of this type is distinguished, first of all, by its rather "flimsy" designs - a thin rod, a plastic handle. However, in order to pierce several sheets of paper, you don't need more.

• A shoe awl, which is often used in shoe shops, has a stronger shaft that can pierce leather and a secure handle.
• The awl-hook is also often called a boot awl, but this is not true, since the previous version should be called. If you really want, then a boot awl-hook. Its main difference from a conventional awl is the tip of the tool in the form of a miniature harpoon.
• An awl with an eyelet, it also sewed a sewing one, differs in that at the end of the point there is a needle-like eye of different sizes. In many ways, the tool is capable of performing the same functions as the crochet version, but still, in terms of strength, it is inferior to him, therefore, much more often this type is used in tailoring to work with suede, fabrics or soft leather.
• The triangular awl allows you to work with especially hard materials, since the presence of three faces gives the rod a special strength. However, the holes are larger than with a conventional awl.
• The awl knife is a special type of tool that has gained popularity among connoisseurs of pu-erh tea. The fact is that pu-erh is supplied in compressed bricks or tablets, which should be divided into layers before use, preferably without damaging the compressed leaves. It is for these purposes that an awl knife is used, which, unlike a conventional tool, has a flattened and sharpened point, which is convenient for peeling tea.

We do an awl with our own hands - a convenient modification

The awl itself is not multifunctional. However, with your own hands you can make exactly one that is able to bring together all the functions performed by different types of awls. This is achieved due to the ability to change the head with the rod. And making a set of rods is not difficult.

For work you will need: a wooden handle, which you can take from an old file, a piece of sandpaper, an 8 mm bolt up to 4 cm long, a 3 mm bolt or screw 1 cm long, a wrench for the size of a large bolt, drills with a diameter of 6 mm and 2.5 mm , a drill (or even better - a drilling machine), a tap for threading, several bicycle knitting needles, preferably from old, Soviet wheels, as well as a bar or electric sharpener. The second can be used if you have experience with such a tool.

How to make an awl with your own hands - a step by step diagram

Step 1: prepare the pen

If the pen is new or has not been in service for a long time, it must be properly sanded with sandpaper to get rid of burrs or dirt. After that, we drill a hole in the handle with a depth equal to the height of the eight-millimeter bolt.

Step 2: making a bolt-attachment

The eight-millimeter bolt will act as a nozzle for different rods. To do this, we drill two holes in its head with a 2.5 mm drill - one directed into the bolt, about 2-3 cm deep, and the second is drilled from the side in the hat, trying to cross the first drilled hole as accurately as possible.

Step 3: attach the bolt to the handle

Lightly drive the bolt into the prepared hole and then screw it in to the full possible depth using an open-end wrench. The tighter the bolt fits, the better.

Step 4: thread

In the side hole with a tap, cut a thread for a three-millimeter bolt.

Step 5: preparing the rod

Bicycle spokes are made from alloy carbon steel, which is often used in tool making, so there is no better option for an awl. We cut the knitting needle to the length we need and grind the tip on, trying to get an even tip. Please note that an awl that is too long loses its strength with every millimeter of length, it can bend at the most inopportune moment, so it is better to make a short tool.

If you want to make a rod for a crochet hook, flatten the end of the knitting needle with a hammer, cut a notch for the thread in the middle of the flattened section. You can cut the groove with a file or a small grinder with a diamond disc. The second option is more convenient, since the groove is narrower and deeper. The notch should be at an angle, directed towards the point, so that it is convenient to grip the thread. When the notch is ready, file the point to form a miniature harpoon.

Then, to get rid of small burrs that will interfere with your work, take a nylon thread lubricated in GOI grinding paste, adding a drop of machine oil to this. We clamp the rod in a vice with the tip up and hook the thread to the notch. We drive the thread from side to side for at least 20 minutes to get a perfectly flat groove surface. All that remains to be done is to insert the desired rod into the fasteners we have made and tighten it with a small bolt. At your leisure, you can replenish the collection with rods of different length, thickness and shape.

For many, do-it-yourself sewing has become a favorite pastime or hobby. However, this process is quite laborious and requires not only perseverance and patience, but also certain skills and knowledge. Experienced needlewomen know that not every material can be pierced or stitched with a sewing needle. For example, for working with leather, fur or cardboard, you simply cannot do without an awl.

What is an awl?

An awl is a hand tool used to pierce or stitch thick materials. Outwardly, it resembles a thick needle, which is stuck into the handle for convenience and greater emphasis. Previously, the handle of the tool was made of wood, now more and more plastic handles are found. Today, you can buy this tool at any hardware or sewing store, and earlier the awl was made with your own hands.

Where is the awl used?

The awl has long been used for stitching rough materials and punching holes. For a long time, this tool was used in the office. Shila was often used in joinery and carpentry, but the greatest demand is still used by shoemakers and seamstresses for this hand tool.

We sew with an awl correctly

Many needlewomen and sewing masters use such a needle with a handle. But, unfortunately, not everyone knows how to sew with an awl correctly. There are several main ways to use this tool. We sew with an awl with two technologies:

1. Pierce the holes and thread the thread by hand. In this case, the awl is used only as an auxiliary tool. The common people call this method the grandfather method, but many carpenters, shoemakers and archive workers use this method again and again.

2. Pierce the hole and use the awl to push the thread into it. This method is the most difficult and requires additional skills, because with an awl you can easily break the thread or damage the material.

We sew with an awl method number 1:

First of all, you need to take the awl correctly - the end of the handle should rest against the palm;

The tool blade should be tilted 45 degrees, the punctures should be even so that the thread stitches are the same;

To make it easier to pierce the material, you need to rest against the fabric from the back with the fingers of your other hand;

If the awl gets stuck in the material, try turning it several times around its axis;

One hole must be made at a time, otherwise you will have to spend extra time reworking your work. The holes are best made 7-10 mm apart.

We sew with an awl method number 2:

We make holes in the material using the technology described above;

With the end of the sewing blade we pry on the thread and carefully push it inside. Some shoemakers still use this technology, but more often craftsmen use a special tool - a stitching awl.

How to sew with an awl with an eyelet?

Externally, the stitching awl resembles a fish hook, which has a special groove for the thread. To learn how to sew with an awl with an eyelet, you need to master the technique of using such a tool. It is best to practice on cardboard or other dense material first. We sew with an awl with an eye:

We pierce the hole in the previous way;

Insert the thread into the groove of the tool;

We stretch the thread;

We take out the awl from the back side already with the thread in the hook;

We insert the free end of the thread into the formed loop and drag it through;

From the front side, the loop must be pulled out, but from the wrong side, the thread must be kept in a slight tension, and so on, stitch by stitch.

Performing this algorithm of actions, you can quickly learn how to sew with an awl. However, do not forget about safety precautions - work with a sharpened tool, but only in a well-lit room. In addition, to make it easier for you to work, the thread can be dipped into the wax, then it will more smoothly slide into the hole.

Any good shoe repairman has a shoe hook in his arsenal, which is simply indispensable in this matter. Such devices can be of different thickness and length. But the services of a master cost money, so many decide to independently repair their favorite boots, sandals, boots. You can buy such a hook ready-made or make it yourself from scrap materials. In this article, we will give a few examples of how to make a DIY shoe stitching hook.

Steel wire boot hook

At home, you can make a hook for stitching shoes with your own hands from reliable steel wire. You just need to check if it is suitable for this purpose.

Important! Try bending it a little:

• if it does not bend, then you have found the necessary material;
• if it breaks, you can throw it away immediately.

Such a simple, at first glance, device has some secrets. It is very important that the hook is strong and able to hold the thread without damaging it as it passes through the material.

Materials and tools required for work:

• Wire.
• Sandpaper.
• Hammer.
• File.
• Wooden handle.
• Electric sharpener.

Plantar hook manufacturing scheme:

• For work, prepare a spring wire with a diameter of 2.5-3 mm.
• It is necessary to rivet one edge with a hammer, but this should be done evenly. The riveting area should be no more than 10-15 mm, but keep in mind that the point will still have to be refined with an electric sharpener or file. This will reduce the diameter of the wire to half its thickness.
• Clamp the workpiece in a vice, then at a distance of 5-7 mm from the end of the edge, which we riveted in the previous step, make a cut at an angle of 45 degrees. It is necessary to reach half of the rod.
• Use a thin file to work over all edges and sharp edges.

Important! If this tool is not at hand, you can use fine-grained emery paper.

• Then check the quality of processing with a boot thread, you need to hook it and hold it in the place where you saw it, then pull it with effort, imitating sewing. If the thread does not come loose, then everything is fine and you can proceed to the next stage.
• Sharpen the point with an electric sharpener or file. As a result, you should get a smooth transition from a flat to a rectangular section at the end.
• Remove any scratches with sandpaper.
• Slide a wooden handle over the rod.

Important! Using such a hook for repairing shoes, of course, you cannot insure it against breakage, since it all depends on the intensity of its use and the quality of the selected wire. But for homework, such a tool is quite enough.

Awl for DIY shoe repair

In modern hardware stores, such a simple tool as a shoe awl is less and less common. It must have a comfortable handle and a head for clamping a temporary point or a special attachment, hook or spatula. With everything you need at hand, you can independently make such a tool that will serve you for more than one year, in just ten minutes.

For work, you will need a set, which includes:

• A piece of sandpaper.
• Wooden handle.
• A bolt 4 cm long with a diameter of 8 mm with a head of at least 4 mm.
• Bolt 1 cm long with a diameter of 3 mm.
• Adjustable wrench that matches the size of the bolt head.
• Drills with a diameter of 6 and 2.5 mm.
• Drilling machine or drill.
• Tap and knob 3 mm.
• Bicycle spoke.
• A bar or a sharpening machine.

The procedure for making an awl looks like this:

• Take a pen and sand it well with sandpaper to remove all sagging, cracks, ribs.

Important! Remember that this is the most important part in awl. Any burrs can hurt your hand while working. Therefore, carefully twist the paper-wrapped pen.

• Take a bolt, drill two holes in the head with a 2.5 mm drill. One hole should have the depth of the bolt itself, the second about 2-3 cm, but you cannot drill to the end. In this case, the second should be located perpendicular to the first. If you did not manage to do everything clearly perpendicularly, do not be discouraged, because the main thing is that these two holes do not intersect.
• Then drill a hole in the handle with a diameter of 6 mm and a depth equal to the height of the bolt. Lightly hit the bolt on the handle, then use an open-end wrench to screw the bolt into it.
• Tap the thread on the head of the bolt.
• Cut off the desired piece of steel bar from the bicycle spoke, grind it with an abrasive stone. Insert the finished rod into the handle, then tighten it with a bolt.

Important! If necessary, you can make a whole set of interchangeable hooks, then refine the awl with them, soak the handle with linseed oil or paint it with paint.

Starting to repair the sole, we need the main tool - a boot hook. A good master always has several of them at hand, of various lengths and thicknesses. It happens that during work, the hook breaks. Do not quit your job because of such a nuisance.This article provides an example of how to make a boot hook with your own hands, I assure you that there is nothing complicated here. All you need is reliable steel. How to check whether the wire you found is suitable for this case or not - there is only one answer. Try to bend it, the wire we need will bend, but will not give in, the bad one at the bend will break immediately. If the wire is found and meets these requirements, we will proceed.

This, at first glance, simple device has its own secrets. The hook is small, but should be strong enough to hold the thread securely without damaging it as it passes through the fabric. Therefore, the hook must not be allowed to have any burrs, sharp protrusions (except for those that should be) - they, clinging, will tear the shoes during operation. Therefore, when making a boot hook, you need to carefully smooth out all sharp corners with a file.

The shoemaker needs a hook and an awl in two sizes: for the top of the shoe and for the sole.

But don't be upset if you don't succeed the first time. Certain skills are required here.

You need to start with a coarser, plantar hook, and then make a smaller copy of it for finer work.

It is best to use spring wire with a diameter of 2.5-3 mm for the hook. First you need to splash (rivet) one edge of the wire. This should be done evenly on both sides. The area for riveting, about 10 - 15 mm, this is taken by me calculating that the point will need to be modified with a file or on an electric grinder. Having reduced the diameter of the wire by about half of its thickness, you can proceed to the next step.

Now we clamp the workpiece in a vice and at a distance of 5-7 mm from the end of the riveted edge, make a cut at an angle of about 45 °, reaching about half of the rod body. All sharp edges and edges, especially inside the cut, must be processed with a thin file. If one is not at hand, this procedure will have to be performed with fine-grained sandpaper.

It is easy to check the quality of the cut - just take the boot thread and hook it. it should fit freely into the cut. Pull it firmly, as if imitating the process of work. If the thread is not frayed or cut, then everything is in order and you can proceed to the next step. Otherwisecase, the processing process will have to continue.