Today, many construction companies are switching to the use of new technologies and new standards. In all new buildings, only plastic windows are installed; in all houses, windows are also changed. It is worth knowing that after the windows are installed, you have to make slopes. They can be made from any material, but the most commonly used materials are drywall and plastic.

Foam is not thermal insulation, it is also necessary to use additional materials for it, they can protect the windows from cooling.

Types of slopes for windows

The most commonly used plaster slopes, plasterboard and plastic.

Plastering slopes were popular in the olden days. In fact, they have more disadvantages than advantages. First of all, they can lose their color, if the house sags, then the plaster will surely move away from the wall. These slopes are quite labor intensive because they take several days to install.

The plaster is applied in several layers, and each layer dries for a long time. Then the layers are primed and painted. In addition, such slopes do not provide protection against temperature changes, the windows will sweat.

Slopes drywall are more durable, they have excellent thermal insulation, but at the same time they are afraid of moisture, that is, they are best installed in rooms where thermal insulation is provided. However, installing such an option requires a good specialist, besides, then it still requires a primer and painting.

The most universal is considered to be plastic slopes. They are very practical, do not fade and care is quite easy. The plastic is durable and can last for over fifteen years. Such plastic will be in perfect harmony with the window, if you choose the right shade. Plastic is quite easy to mount, if you study the technology itself, then there is always the opportunity to do this work yourself.

Plastic sandwich panels are often used as an option. They fit under the frame and can be matte or glossy.

Installation of slopes from sandwich panels

The profile for fixing the slopes is made of sandwich panels, the thickness of which is not more than 1 cm. The profile is attached to the opening, and any options can be used, most often the fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws and dowels. In some versions, fastening with brackets made of galvanized iron is used, the thickness is not more than 1 mm. The bracket is attached to the wall and to the slope using foam. The brackets are connected to each other by means of self-tapping screws.

If the window is supposed to be decorated with integral PVC or plasterboard, then you can give it any shape. Integral PVC is able to bend at any angle, while special cuts are made. The incisions are fixed with a special adhesive. In fact, the installation is done according to the same scheme as the installation of sandwich panels, using self-tapping screws, dowels and a profile.

The sandwich panels are fastened in a certain sequence:

• along the perimeter of the entire opening, guides are attached using self-tapping screws of the appropriate size,
• holes in the wall for the guides are made with a drill or puncher. Make sure that they are attached perfectly evenly, it is better to control the process with a level,



• the plastic panel should be adjusted in size so that it fits clearly into the guides,
• the surplus of the panel is cut off at the depth of the slope and the free spaces are filled with sealant and sealed with a special masking tape until completely dry,



• after the sealant dries, decorative plastic corners are installed.

Useful. Which blinds are best for home? Let's try to disassemble together:

Tools and materials

To install conventional plastic slopes, the following materials and tools are required:

• a six-meter strip of plastic with a thickness of 8 mm,
• starting strip,
• strip F, that is, a strip of plastic of a special shape,



• rail 15 mm thick,
• level,
• staples and stapler,
• white silicone,



• puncher,
• mineral wool,
• metal scissors,
• self-tapping screws.

Useful. During the operation of plastic windows, their adjustment may be required - more about this.

Steps for installing slopes

Installation is carried out in several stages. Initially, wooden slats are recruited, the main thing is that the lights do not protrude. The slats are attached to the wall using a puncher. You can use wooden blocks for leveling. At the same time, ideality at the joints is not so necessary.



A starting strip is nailed along the edge of the plastic window. It is important that a strip of plastic will be attached to the groove of the starting strip. If you did not have wallpaper pasted over, then you can tear off the film and glue them, because the dirty work will be finished. Before stuffing the F-ki, it is important to cut it correctly.



After the strip is filled, there will be an overlap, which is removed with metal scissors. It is attached with a stapler to a wooden rail. At the last stage, the plastic is attached and the wall is immediately insulated.



The plastic is attached, and cotton wool is put in front of it, everything will turn out tightly and beautifully. If you do not get even and beautiful corners, then they can always be wiped with white silicone.

Many are accustomed to the fact that the window slope needs to be putty or plaster. This was done until plastic panels appeared; since then, DIY installation of window slopes has become much easier.

Do-it-yourself installation of window slopes - choose panels

After windows have been installed in your home, slopes remain the main and main problem. And no matter how carefully and efficiently the team of installers works, there will always be chips and cracking on the slopes. In addition, a plastic window is much thinner in size than an old wooden one. For this reason, after installation, a strip of unplastered wall remains, which in any case must be repaired. For these purposes, it is best to arrange plastic slopes.

It should be noted right away that the installation of panels is a very laborious process. If you have very little idea about this, it is best to turn to professionals for help. But if you made a firm decision to do everything yourself, we will tell you about it in detail.

It is important to know that high-quality PVC slopes are thick enough. 8-10 millimeters of thickness is quite enough so that the slope does not bend and has a rigid fixation near the window frames. In addition, PVC slopes of this thickness have high thermal insulation properties, and if you use mineral wool during installation, then the most severe frosts are not terrible for your home.

Plastic slopes are easy to wipe, for this reason they are recommended to be mounted in rooms with high humidity, for example, in kitchens, loggias, balconies, etc. Plastic products “do not collect” neither mold nor dampness. This is their indisputable plus.

Plastic panels have other advantages as well:

• Perfect appearance. Plastic slopes have a smooth, uniform surface.
• When using these products, streaks and stains are not formed. And you can clean them with water and any detergent.
• Plastic panels have a long service life.
• Installation is carried out quickly, after installation there is a minimum of dust and debris, they do not need putty and painting.
• Excellent moisture resistance of the material used.
• High vapor permeability.

How to install slopes - preparation for installation

Before starting to mount the window slope, it is imperative to check the evenness of the installation of the inserted window. This is necessary in order to immediately correct all inaccuracies (if any). If the window is installed incorrectly, then the plastic panels will clearly show all the flaws in the installation of the window block. Before you start installing window slopes with your own hands, you need to carry out a whole range of preparatory work:

• cut off excess foam;
• if necessary, knock down the remnants of the plastered slopes;
• check the strength of the brickwork in the area of ​​\ u200b \ u200bthe window slope for integrity;
• drill a hole for the window sill;
• cover the foam with a vapor barrier material;
• seal the through holes (if any) with foam or cement mortar;
• remove the protective film from the plastic windows.

The installation of plastic slopes must be approached with full responsibility and knowledge of the matter, otherwise the installation of window slopes will be done incorrectly, which will affect the heat transfer of the room and visual perception. Plastic panels are mounted only after the window sill has been installed. It is important to understand that the installation of slopes and window sills are two interrelated processes.

Plastic slopes are usually installed using a U-shaped profile (starting profile). It is screwed to the edge of the window block with self-tapping screws for metal, the step of which is 1 cm. It is recommended to perform this operation along the marked line on the window profile. There are a variety of starter profiles that snap into place before installing the window onto the plastic frame. If you decide to use this type of profile, then when purchasing it is recommended to clarify whether the start and window profiles are compatible.

How to mount slopes on windows - practical ways

There are several options that are most often found in the practice of builders. One of them is foaming. This method is good in that the foam, which is in the body of the slope, significantly increases the deflection strength of the plastic product. Also, polyurethane foam is an adhesive and heat-insulating material. Installation is quite simple - foam is applied to the seamy side of the panels, and they are installed in their place. If you are installing slopes with your own hands, you must remember that the main task is to correctly set the slope along a plumb line.

There is one caveat - so that the expanding foam does not deform the panels, they must be pressed against the wall for some time with something heavy.

Another method of fastening plastic panels, which is strongly recommended by the manufacturers of this product, is by screwing to the profile at the outer edge of the slope. By choosing this option, you should understand that you will need to close the corner of the end. To do this, it is necessary to cut strips of the required width from PVC panels. With the help of a specialized rail, which has a snap-in corner, the plastic panel must be well fixed in the desired position. If you decide to use a regular mounting rail, then the panel is attached to the rail with a stapler.

After you have fixed all the panels, on top and on the sides, the ends between the wall and the slope must be closed with special ones. These corners will "extend the life" of your wallpaper in the area of ​​\ u200b \ u200bthe windows.

Method for simple plastering of slopes

Initially, the surface is primed, then a layer of plaster is applied, the corners are leveled. Rules are used to level the surface. Each new layer can only be applied after the previous one has dried. This, by the way, is the main disadvantage of the method - time is spent not so much on work as on waiting.

A special flat rail is installed to the top of the panel. It serves as a beacon so that the slope is perfectly flat. On the lateral sides of the slopes, the slats are installed vertically. To achieve the utmost accuracy, a plumb line is used during installation. The applied solution is best leveled with a special bead. After using the plaster mixture, the final step is to apply a fine putty and trowel it after drying.

I would also like to note the fact that the installation of slopes is not a type of service for which the price is so high as to save money. Therefore, many people prefer to hire specialists who, in exchange for your money, will save you time. You just have to enjoy the beautiful view and cleanliness at a minimum cost. However, even the masters need control, so this knowledge will probably come in handy for you.

In this case, it is necessary to control the gap between the window opening and the frame. In the future, this will make it easy to assemble and adjust the window decor elements.

And if the arrangement of the slope is not included in the list of services of such a company, then no one will worry: he drilled four micro-holes in the walls of the opening for fixing the dowels, set the window in level, foamed the cracks and received a calculation. The contract has been completed. And further becomes the problem of the owner. He will have to look for another master who will tinker with the restoration of the slopes.

Important. Be sure to make sure that the employees of the company performing, before starting work, thoroughly clean the work surfaces from dirt, and before foaming, moisten them abundantly with water.

Many workers do not bother themselves to comply with this rule, which significantly reduces the quality of fixation. During operation (opening / closing a window, wind load, various climatic collapses), such a window loses its rigidity and begins to stagger in the opening. This, in turn, leads to cracking of the slopes. A cosmetic seal will not solve the problem. We'll have to resort to more radical methods - to strengthen the frame fastening in the opening. In practice, this is the same as assembling a plastic window in a new way. That is, you will be forced to pay twice for one service.

Features of external slopes

Only a person who is not versed in construction can assume that there is no difference between the processing methods and the materials used for the installation of internal and external slopes. However, the correct selection of tools and means for organizing slopes can significantly increase their service life.

Features of the organization of external and internal slopes:

1. The angle of all surfaces of the window opening from the inside is mainly 90 °. The situation with the outside is different. To improve the outflow of water from the windowsill, the lower platform is made with a slope. The top surface and sidewalls can be made both at right angles and beveled (110-120 о). Professional plasterers are still advised to stick with the beveled corner. A slight deviation from 90 o will visually expand the window opening, improve the appearance of the entire building. This little trick will allow you to increase the amount of time the room is exposed to natural light. A difference of several degrees will allow the sun to stay in your room for half an hour longer, and this is a direct saving of energy resources.
2. The first thing that the foreman does when selecting materials and technology is to assess the operating conditions of the slopes. So for buildings made of stone, it is better to use a cement-sand mortar. For houses made of wooden beams, windows made of lumber are suitable.

Plastic slopes, no matter how great they look, are not recommended. It is easy to work with plastic, but during operation it is significantly inferior in all respects to the first two. Today, numerous, even the most modern, additives are not able to absolutely protect the material from the harmful effects of the sun, aggressive ultraviolet radiation, and seasonal temperature changes. Gradually, the plastic burns out, the material loses intermolecular bonds, which leads to an increase in its fragility and a decrease in attractiveness.

1. Professionals know that such work should only be carried out in good weather and at temperatures above freezing. If for internal work this is insignificant, then for external work it is one of the main components of a successful result.
2. If the inner slopes can be veiled with curtains, blinds or decorative elements, then the outer surface is in plain sight. Any defects, problem areas are visible and spoil the overall impression of the facade. Only a professional, a person with experience in such work, is able to accurately and efficiently carry out all the points of the technological process.

Preparatory work



The company completed the installation, the fixing mixture hardened. It's time to tackle the slopes. But before proceeding with them, it is worth protecting the window frame and the glass itself from mechanical damage and contamination, which cannot be avoided during work. If the factory film has not yet been removed, then there is nothing to worry about, but if it is not there, you should take care of its application.

1. Before starting work, the master takes measurements and makes sure that the window is located strictly vertically, the gap between the opening and the frame is the same along the entire perimeter. According to building codes, a difference in the width of the slope is allowed no more than 5 mm. If the difference is greater, it must be eliminated. To do this, in some cases it is necessary to dismantle the window and reinstall it. It is better to do this right away, spending extra time, than to regret it throughout the entire period of operation.
2. It should, clean the work surface of debris, cut off or cut out the protruding remnants of polyurethane foam.
3. Measure all sides of the opening.
4. Knowing the features of the wall and frame, its operational parameters and the owner's desire to obtain a certain design, the master chooses the material of the slope and the technology for its application. Building codes allow the application of a layer of plaster not more than 2 cm.

Let's get acquainted with the most popular methods, technologies and materials used for the manufacture of slopes that frame a plastic window. The first place in terms of practicality and reliability is occupied by a cement-sand mortar.

Arrangement of slopes on brick buildings



Before starting work, you need to know what material the ebb will be: plastic or galvanized iron. This fact influences the choice of installation technology. In the lower part of the plastic window, a groove is structurally provided into which the ebb tide will be attached. Before starting work, you should fix the bar of the casting structure at the required slope and indicate the size of the gap to the wall. This will allow the plaster to be properly applied to the bottom of the window opening.

Similar measurements are taken along the entire perimeter of the window structure. The results obtained allow the master to estimate the thickness of the plaster layer. The larger the given value, the more difficult the job. If the size exceeds the permissible norms, it is constructively reduced. Only then can you start plastering.

First, a cement-sand mortar is prepared. One part of cement is taken to 2.5-3 parts of sand. A deviation in the ratio of components towards an increase in the amount of sand is unacceptable. This will lead to a deterioration in the strength properties of the working mixture. During operation, after numerous freeze / thaw cycles, the adhesiveness of the joint will decrease. The surface will gradually turn into crumb, losing both protective and aesthetic qualities. On the contrary, more cement in the mixture will increase the coefficient of adhesion of the mortar to the wall surface.

Stages of arrangement of slopes:

Step 1. Specialists cover the plastic frame and the glass unit itself with foil, fixing it with tape. This will protect the window surface from dirt and mechanical damage. Then they check that there are no exposed places.

Step 2. Remove foam residues that go beyond the level of the wall plane. If there are voids that are not covered with material, the master foams them or uses a sealant. Excess foam is cut off with a sharp construction knife in one precise motion, avoiding cracks in the material. It is important to understand that the more monolithic the insulation, the less heat loss. In the presence of defects in the polyurethane foam, during operation, "cold bridges" form in such places, which leads to the formation of condensation. Mold and mildew growth can also occur. This situation is not only detrimental to the wall itself, but can become a provocateur of various diseases among the residents of the apartment.

Step 3. For work, specialists use a paint brush, which is used to moisten the work surface, level or plumb line. You also need a trowel, grout, grout, and a sufficient number of dowels, a roller or a spray gun.

Malka is a special construction tool that helps the master to level the plaster layer, bringing it out at the required angle. Today it can be purchased at any construction market or made independently from improvised means. Malka - two wooden or metal rulers connected by a hinge. When the desired angle is selected, the position of the slats is fixed by a screw clamp located in the hinge. Also, many specialists do not use a bevel, but at the same time they perform slopes with high quality.

Step 4. The professional begins his work from the upper slope. This is the most difficult part of plastering and requires knowledge and skills. Before starting the application of a layer of material, the specialist wets the working area with a cement-sand mortar, which is more liquid than the working material. This allows the wall to be moistened and increases the adhesion of the cement-sand mixture to the treated surface.

Step 5. Wooden slats are fixed on the wall above the window opening using dowels. The holes from them are subsequently sealed. The board should not change its position even with significant impact. Its end should be in a strictly horizontal position. It will play the role of a guide along which the malka will slide.

Step 6. If, during the markup, it turned out that a sufficiently large layer of plaster is needed, the master applies it in several stages, since if the entire procedure is performed once, the adhesion will be insufficient and the plaster will simply fall under its own weight. First, the first layer is applied with a thickness of 20-30mm. After it dries, a similar amount of solution is reapplied. And so it is repeated until the thickness of the plastered layer reaches the optimum value.

Step 7. Experts equalize the mixture applied to the wall with the help of a bevel. But most of them use a different method - a flat rail is taken, which is 10-12 cm longer than the width of the slope. Moreover, its width should be less than or equal to the width of the gap from the sash to the end of the frame. After the tool has been prepared, the specialist performs the alignment step by step:

• the end is pressed tightly against the frame, and the side of the rail is abutted against the sash. Its other end slides on a board fixed with dowels;
• the worker smoothly, in small wave-like movements, moves the rail along the guide, and the part of the rail (10-12 cm), which protrudes above the slope, allows you to control the working mass, leveling it and removing excess;
• where the window sashes converge, a small bump may form from the solution. It is obtained by transferring the lath from one sash to another, but it will be smoothed out when grouting.

Step 8. With the help of a working rail, the specialist removes excess mortar, and corrects the formed indentations with a trowel with mortar. At the same time, the board is located under the working area, taking over the excess mortar.

Step 9. Then the master leaves the surface until the solution hardens completely. This takes 40-50 minutes. When the mixture is dry enough to continue working, the specialist begins to process the surface with a trowel. With light circular movements, the solution is rubbed, leveled. Particular attention is paid to the angles of the slopes. At this stage, the defect that has appeared can be easily corrected with a spatula or trowel.

One of the stages of plastering is over. The specialist goes to vertical surfaces. Before proceeding with further processing of the slopes, an ebb tide is mounted in a permanent place. The installation sequence directly depends on its material and type. But it is important that the protruding section of the structure firmly "sits" in the grooves located on the window frame. It should not be forgotten that to improve the drainage of liquid from the windowsill, the ebb is installed at an angle. Condensation and rain, under no circumstances, should get into the play between the molding bar and the frame.

Step 1. After whom, like an ebb tide, it has reliably taken its place, the master begins to work with the side surface of the window opening, performing the markup.

Step 2. The specialist removes the ebb and applies a cement-sand mixture to the lower surface. After its hardening, the ebb is returned to its place.

Step 3. The master's side slopes are performed using the same technology as the upper one.

Finishing works

After the arrangement of the slopes is over, the guide rails are not touched until the solution is completely dry - usually in a day. After that, the specialists remove the nails and dowels that hold the rail. The guides are neatly removed. At the same time, she is not pulled towards herself, but with a sliding movement is taken to the side. This will prevent the plaster from chipping.

Next, the surface is revised. The pits and grooves are carefully covered with a trowel. After that, with the help of grouting, the slope is smoothed out. The wall is allowed to dry, after which the surface is ready for painting. To give the slopes a complete look, specialists use water-based paint or facade decorative plaster of various colors and shades.

Working with plastic slopes

Today, it is rare to find slopes made of plastic battens. Under the influence of climatic conditions, they quickly lose their strength and aesthetic qualities. On average, their service life does not exceed 15 years. But this option for installing slopes exists, and it has the right to life. The advantage of this technique is that their installation does not take much time and, if desired, can be easily replaced.

Before installing the plastic, a specialist makes a supporting base from wooden planks or metal fittings. In this case, it doesn't matter what material the frame is made of. The service life of such structures is approximately the same.

Below is the simplest manufacturing option.

Material - wooden board.

Step 1. Planks are selected even, corresponding to the desired length and width. The rail must fit freely in the gap between the frame and the sash. If necessary, the wall or the size of the batten is adjusted. Boards are securely attached by means of dowels along the entire perimeter of the window. If plastic double-glazed windows are large, additional fasteners for all rails are installed. They can be fixed with liquid nails and polyurethane foam, after which they expect the installation solution to completely solidify. Excess foam protruding above flat surfaces is carefully cut off with an assembly knife.

Step 2. The ebb is installed in its seat in the grooves provided for by the design of the plastic window. Installation technology depends on the selected type of ebb tide. The level gauge checks the correct location of the already fixed wooden battens and the strict verticality of the side surfaces. They must be in the same plane. It is necessary to withstand the slope of the lower slope (for unhindered drainage of condensate), as well as, if desired, the upper and side slopes (the luminous flux into the room will increase).

Step 3. Measurements are being carried out. On them, plastic and a special corner are prepared, which allows you to give the corner of the slope a decorative look.

Expert advice. It is advisable to start the installation of plastic from the side of the attachment. By cutting off a thin strip of material, staples or nails are attached to it. It turns out a reliable bar for fixing. It is pressed against the frame, which avoids additional sealing of the resulting gaps.

Step 4. The plastic panels are cut and numbered according to the available dimensions so as not to confuse the sequence during the assembly process. For work, a tool such as an electric jigsaw, an assembly knife or a grinder is used. The professional uses devices that allow you to accurately maintain the required direction and angles. For example, a ceramic cutting machine.

Step 5. When assembling the plastic slope, the panels are fixed with small nails or a construction stapler. The master makes sure that they correctly take their place, that they are tightly pressed and exactly fit to the neighboring ones. No gaps are allowed.

Step 6. The resulting corners are decorated with special building corners using liquid nails. The use of a frame made of plastic slopes for framing windows is most often used when the whole house is finished with plastic.

Expert advice. If there is no experience in arranging plastic slopes, then it is very difficult to make an accurate cut and maintain an angle of 45 °.

Slope mounting technology on special profiles

Material for work - plastic and sandwich panels. The size of the selected material depends on the dimensions of the window opening. First of all, a specialist makes all measurements and prepares panels according to the dimensions of the slopes, using a metal disc for cutting.

Important. It is worth remembering that any depressurization of the structure, loss of its integrity (gaps, irregularities, the presence of burrs) significantly reduce its service life.

Step 1. A U-shaped profile is cut to a size slightly larger than the dimensions of the window opening. We fix the U-shaped plastic profile with small screws along the perimeter of the window. With their help, the ends of the slopes from the selected material will be fixed.

Step 2. Experts are convinced of the correctness of all measurements, the absence of distortions and gaps, as well as the entry of the panels into the profile. To facilitate the work of the master, they use a plastic rail.

Step 3. A strip of masking tape is not completely glued to the free part of the slope. It will subsequently allow to stiffen the structure by attaching it to the surface. The profile will not bend under the influence of the foam.

Step 4. Slowly and carefully foaming is carried out first of the side surfaces, then similar actions are used to fix the horizontal elements of the structure. The specialist does not forget to constantly wet the surfaces to be treated with water. This improves adhesion and reduces the curing time of the polyurethane foam.

Step 5. After the foam has hardened, specialists cut off its remnants that protrude beyond the working plane. Platbands or special decorative corners are mounted outside. The algorithm of work and the material of the platbands is selected based on the features of the exterior decoration of the building.

Wooden slopes

Wooden slopes look most harmonious on houses made of timber or objects faced with clapboard.

For outdoor work, furniture boards or lining made of natural wood are suitable as a material. The shield is made of adhesive boards that are not subject to deformation. Due to the multilayer structure, it can withstand the adverse effects of the atmosphere: sudden temperature changes, precipitation, wind loads, and the action of sunlight.

Slope mounting technology with 1 cm thick furniture board

Step 1. Before work, the master always checks his tool and remembers the safety precautions when working on woodworking machines and devices.

Step 2. First of all, all the necessary dimensions are carefully removed and a template made of cardboard is made, after which it is transferred to the tree. Thus, shields for the sidewalls and top are obtained.

Step 3. On the lower plane of the slope, the ebb is fixed, maintaining a certain angle. To increase the rigidity of this structure, a frame base is made for it. Choose a board impregnated with an antiseptic solution, measuring 20x50 mm.

Step 4. The specialist tries on the slope. When installed, it must completely cover the gap between the wall and the window. If necessary, adjustments are made.

Step 5. Fix the slope in the box and check the rigidity of the structure. The distance between the fastening points should not exceed 20 cm.

Step 6. The gap between the wall and the slope is well moistened with water and foamed. With a significant slope width, polyurethane foam is applied in two steps.

Step 7. After the foam has set, the excess is carefully cut off with a sharp knife.

Step 8. Platbands are attached to the slopes with nails or self-tapping screws, after which the caps are putty.

Conclusion

It should be remembered that plastic panels designed for indoor use must not be used for outdoor work. When buying, you should pay attention to the resistance of the material to sunlight, including hard ultraviolet light.

The installation of plastic windows is always associated with the need to carry out a number of additional finishing works both inside the apartment and from the side of the facade. As for the latter, it requires not only compliance with the general architectural style, but also high-quality heat and moisture insulation. The decoration of the interior slopes should not only be beautiful, neat and harmonious in relation to the existing interior solution, but also as reliable, practical and durable as possible.

How to make the slopes of plastic windows with your own hands?

Interior decoration of a window opening is not particularly difficult, however, it requires a certain skill and excellent knowledge of the properties of finishing materials. But it is likely that there is no need to call a master for this work - if you did the repairs in the house yourself, then you will certainly cope with the slopes perfectly well. All that is needed for this is the tool, material and time required to prepare for and for repair activities and their implementation.

The most popular materials for finishing window slopes:

• wood;
• cement-lime mortar;
• plastic;
• MDF (fiberboard);
• finishing sandwich panels;
• drywall.

Wood makes the interior lively and colorful, but it requires special care and is expensive. MFD is a relatively new finishing material that has earned many positive reviews. However, it is not so easy to buy a high-quality fiberboard, and it costs a lot. However, like the increasingly popular sandwich panels, which provide a much higher reliability and durability of the finish than the latter.

Most buyers have a preference for materials such as drywall, plastic and plaster. As for the first, its low cost, ease of installation, practicality and reliability in operation speak for themselves. Plastic provides an excellent opportunity to create a truly beautiful and original interior solution at the cost of relatively little effort and money. The most reliable, but also the most time consuming option is cement mortar. You will have to tinker with it, but it is worth it: high-quality slopes will serve for more than one decade.

Where should you start finishing?

The finishing of the slopes is the very last stage in the installation of plastic windows. Before that, it is imperative to complete the installation of the window sill. Well, if you are doing general repairs, then in addition to installing the latter, it is very desirable to complete the finishing of the ceiling and walls. Otherwise, you risk ruining the appearance of new slopes or, even worse, damaging their structure.

In order to finish the slopes yourself, you will need a tool. Feel free to list what you need:

• building level;
• tape measure, square and pencil;
• assembly knife and / or scissors
• hammer and pliers;
• a set of screwdrivers (flat and Phillips);
• puncher and screwdriver;
• construction stapler;
• hand saw, circular saw and / or jigsaw;
• a set of spatulas;
• several containers.

How to make slopes on windows using plaster?

Slopes should be carefully prepared for plastering. Both the result itself and its reliability and durability directly depend on this. It is necessary to provide free access to the windows, clean the basic structures from construction debris, dust, easily peeling materials and residues of polyurethane foam, and widen the seams. After that, the base for the plaster must be primed - this will ensure normal adhesion and prevent the development of harmful microorganisms.

The primary task when plastering with cement mortar is to ensure high-quality adhesion of the latter to the surfaces of the window opening. And for this you need to spray. The solution must be brought to a liquid consistency, after which it is taken in small portions on a trowel and with effort is thrown onto the surface of the finish. After the entire area of ​​the slope has been processed, the spray, which can be done with a spray gun, must be allowed to dry. After that, you can proceed directly to plastering.

The next move is to set the rules along the outer perimeter of the slopes, that is, on the plane of the wall. You can make them yourself: for this you need even wooden blocks or strips of plywood. Reliably, in order to prevent displacement, they are fixed with dowels or on a plaster mixture. The rules also play the role of beacons, therefore, their installation should be treated with increased attention and accuracy.

When installing the rules, equal dawns of the side and top slopes should be ensured: if their angles are different, this will negatively affect the light transmission capacity of the window and the overall aesthetics of the interior.

Plastering: highlights

In order to evenly apply and level the solution, you will need such a device as a malka. Making it as easy as shelling pears:

1. A smooth wooden lath is made with a length exceeding the depth of the slope by approximately the thickness of the rule. Malka should ensure that the mortar is applied to the base of the window frame by at least 5 mm.
2. A nail is hammered in the center of the end face of the rail, and its head is cut off so that about 5 mm of metal remains above the end face. The cut point is carefully smoothed and covered with a plastic cap to avoid damage to the frame. Another option is that a small cut is made at the end of the bevel, thanks to which it, as in the case of a nail, gets the opportunity to move along the frame, acting as a rule.
3. In the middle of the bevel, a handle is attached to one of the edges. In the process of work, the end of the bevel, which is beyond the slope rule, will act as a stop.

To apply plaster, the malka is installed in the lower (side) corner of the slope, after which a thick solution is poured onto the wall. A few centimeters in height or to the side, and the malka moves, cutting off excess plaster and leveling the plane.

In order to provide the cherished 90 degrees of slope angles and a perfectly flat edge, a perforated corner with a plastic mesh along the length is used, which is mounted strictly according to the level and, as a result, is hidden under the plaster. It should be attached as securely as possible in order to prevent displacement and sagging during the plastering process. The second option is to use a corner without a frame - it only allows you to control the corner, and after the last is completed, it is removed.

Upon completion of the leveling of the mortar, the latter must be allowed to dry, after which it is grilled.

Installation of plasterboard slopes on windows

GKL boards must be moisture resistant in order to prevent the destruction of the constituent components of the material under the influence of temperature extremes and condensation. If wall drywall is used, it must be covered with several coats of primer or a special moisture-resistant compound.

The first step is to decide how exactly you will mount the drywall - on the profile or on the glue. If the distance from the edge of the window frame to the base of the slope is too large, it is best to use wooden blocks beveled in accordance with the accepted clearance angle. With a small gap between the plane of the future slope and the wall, an adhesive mixture is a more suitable option. Installation of profiles or bars is carried out on dowels. The space between the plasterboard slope and the wall should not be filled with air - this will negatively affect the thermal insulation of the opening. Therefore, it must be filled with mineral wool or foam rubber. In some cases, polyurethane foam is used to fill narrow gaps and gaps, but it must be handled carefully - when it dries, it increases in volume and can break drywall.

Further, along the perimeter of the window frame, it is necessary to fix the L or F-shaped profile. In the first case, it will be applied by the upper horizontal bar, in the second - by the vertical one, and the rest of it is installed inside the slope for additional support. It remains to cut out the necessary pieces of drywall and fix them in the opening.

If you are going to install the gypsum board on glue, the solution must be prepared in such a way that it provides the fastest setting possible. In this case, it is imperative to control the sunrises. The cut of drywall along the edges of the joints, which will become the corners between the side and upper slopes, must be performed at an angle of 45 °. This will ensure high-quality joining of the plates. Installation of gypsum board on profiles or bars is carried out by means of self-tapping screws. In conclusion, after finishing the corners of the slopes, the gypsum board is primed with subsequent finishing plaster and painting or wallpapering.

As you can see, the traditional methods of finishing window slopes are quite within the power of any home craftsman. When working, you should not forget about cleanliness and safety, and then the appearance of your finished windows will only bring joy and satisfaction.

Decorating window slopes with your own hands, video

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Installation of slopes of plastic windows

Among the numerous firms for the installation of plastic windows and doors, it is very difficult to find those that would immediately deal with the slopes. During the time spent on finishing the slopes for one opening, company employees can install 4-5 windows and get much more money. And some types of slopes cannot be made within one day, the technology requires time for solidification and drying of the material, this further discourages them from engaging in such services. In addition, the very need to install slopes changes the algorithm of action of the "installers" of plastic windows. They must take out old windows very carefully so as not to create large destruction of the existing finish, carefully think over the specific place of installation of the frame, taking into account the thickness and material of the walls. No slopes - no problem, here is the method of installing plastic windows by company employees.

Another nuisance for window installers - if you make the slopes yourself, then you need to control the distance between the frame and the window opening. In this way, you can facilitate the further installation of decorative elements of the window opening. And an ordinary installation requires from them only drilling four holes for dowels in the vertical walls of the opening, fixing the frame under the level and foaming the cracks. After that, the craftsmen receive their money, and the owner is forced to hire another team of builders to finish the windows or do it on their own.

Important. If the windows are installed by company employees, then be sure to ask them to thoroughly clean the surfaces of the window opening from dust and dirt, and moisten them abundantly with water before foaming.

In most cases, such work is not done, the strength of fixing the structure is significantly reduced. In the future, under the influence of wind loads or during opening / closing, the cocoon of the frame loosens a little, cracks appear near the slopes and frames you made. It is useless to eliminate them; to eliminate the marriage, you will have to strengthen the frame fasteners. In terms of labor intensity, these works are no different from the installation of plastic windows. In essence, you will have to redo the work for which the money has already been paid.

Only inexperienced developers might think that there is no difference between indoor and outdoor slopes. It exists, and it is quite substantial. Understanding the features of the arrangement of external slopes will make it possible to avoid mistakes, improve their appearance and increase the operating time.

As you can see, the installation of external slopes is not such a simple matter, work very carefully and carefully.

Prices for platbands and accessories for windows and doors

Platbands and extensions for windows and doors

Preparatory work

So, the plastic window is installed, the foam is frozen. The factory-made plastic wrap on the frames and sashes has not been removed. If it is not there, then you will have to take measures to protect surfaces from pollution and mechanical damage.

We will consider several options for the manufacture of external slopes for plastic windows, we will start with the most practical and reliable ones - from a cement-sand mortar.

Plastering slopes on brick houses

Before starting work, decide what kind of ebb tide will be: galvanized iron or standard plastic.

The algorithm of its installation depends on the material of manufacture. The frame of plastic windows has a special groove in the lower part, an ebb must be inserted into it. "Cash in" it and see at what angle it lies, at what distance from the walls. Make marks, they will come in handy when plastering the lower slope.

Remove the same dimensions on the sides and on top of the opening, find out the required thickness of the plaster. The larger it is, the more difficult it will be to make the slope. After taking measurements, analyzing the condition and developing a production scheme, you can start plastering the slopes.

Prepare a cement-sand mixture based on a part of cement, approximately 2.5–3 parts of sand, but no more. The solution must be greasy, otherwise it will begin to crumble with repeated freezing / thawing. You will have to redo everything or use various methods of protecting surfaces. In addition, an increased amount of cement increases the coefficient of adhesion of the mortar to the walls, which is very important for slopes.

Step 1. Protect the surface of glass units from contamination. Use plastic wrap and tape for this. Close all places where the mass might fall. Stick the adhesive tape firmly so that the film does not fall off during operation.

Step 2. Cut off the foam that has protruded beyond the planes of the frame. If there are large gaps after foaming, close them up. You can use mortar or various sealants. Cut off the foam with a sharp knife in continuous movements, do not allow breaks. The better the insulation, the less heat loss. But that's not all. If cold bridges form around the frame perimeter, then condensation appears on the slopes, which causes the growth of fungi and mold. Microorganisms not only negatively affect building structures and materials, but can also cause various allergic reactions.

Step 3... Prepare your tools. You will need a grout, trowel, plumb line or level, dowels, spray gun or brush to wet surfaces with water.

Working tools

Craftsmen often mention a bevel for slopes. We need to dwell on this topic in more detail. What is malka and what is it used for?

Malka is a tool with which you can level the plaster at various angles. We have already said that the slopes need to be done at obtuse angles, due to this, the clearance of the window opening increases. You can buy a malka ready-made in a store, make it yourself, or replace it with an elementary device.

The standard bead consists of two metal strips connected by a hinge. After selecting the desired angle, the strips in the hinge are clamped with a screw. It can also be done from wooden planks, but it takes a long time, for one-time work it makes no sense to waste so much time for several windows.

If there is an irresistible desire to level the corners of the slopes with the help of a bevel, then you can make it from one board. One end is cut at the desired angle, it will abut against the window frame. The second part of the stick slides over a guide board fixed to the wall. But there is another way to maintain the desired angle of the slopes, which is used by all professionals. We will explain below how they work. We assure you that this method allows you to achieve excellent quality and at the same time not waste time at all making a bean or a special device.

It is advisable to sprinkle the surface with cement-sand milk beforehand. This is the same solution, only very liquid. The milk will do two things: it will moisturize very dry bricks and will increase the adhesion of the plaster to the surface.

Step 5. Install the guide rail on the wall. To do this, you need to fix a thin board with absolutely flat sides on the wall above the window opening. The side edge of the board should be horizontal, fasten it with dowels, then the holes in the wall will be sealed without any problems. Fasten it securely, it should not stagger and, moreover, fall off. One end of the rule will slide across the board.

Step 6. If you need to apply thick plaster, then this should be done in several stages. Sketch the first layer about 2–3 cm thick, let it dry a little. Then throw on the second layer and so on until about a centimeter remains before the final leveling of the slope. Cover the mortar with the back of the trowel; only applying it will ensure that all gaps on the surface are completely filled.

Important. Beginners often do not succeed in throwing, it's not scary, learn, after a while experience will appear. But never try to spread the solution on the surface, nothing will come of this venture. You can only slightly grease the grooves obtained after throwing on. But this is not how professionals work. They always throw on, and for different purposes they take a different amount of solution.

Step 7. You can level the mass with a small or ordinary bar. We have already talked about malka, now we will tell you how professionals work. They prepare an ordinary flat rail, the length should exceed the width of the slope by about 10 cm. As for the width, there is a special requirement: it should not exceed the width of the gap from the sash to the end of the window frame. Further, the leveling of the solution on the upper slope is done as follows:

• one end of the rail butt rests against the frame, the side edge is tightly pressed against the sash. The other end of the rail will slide on the board;
• slowly zigzag movements move the rail along the board and sash, the mass protruding beyond the thickness of the slope is leveled;
• in a place where there is a gap between the sashes, remove the rail from one sash and install it on the next. Do not worry that after rearranging it, a small tubercle will remain, it is smoothed out with a grater without any problems.

Step 8. After the excess mass is pulled together by the rail, grooves of various parameters will inevitably remain on the surface. Large ones must be repaired with a trowel. Take a little mass on a plywood stand, take small portions with the back of the trowel and fill in the holes. The mass must be glued with effort. Keep the plywood under the patch so any excess weight will fall onto it.

Step 9. Wait 40-50 minutes for the solution to harden. As soon as it is a little stronger, start to work with the trowel. Do not use too much force, work in a circular motion, constantly check the position of the working surface of the trowel (grout). If the solution has hardened strongly, moisten it with water. Work carefully in the corners of the slopes. You can correct the corners with a trowel or a spatula, there is no difference. Use the tools that are more familiar and easier to work with.

Prices for mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings

Mixes for leveling walls and ceilings

Now you can go to vertical slopes. Reinstall the drip before finishing the side ones. Its installation technology depends on the selected type. But for all cases, one condition must be observed - the protruding part of the ebb must fit tightly into a special seat on the frame of the plastic window. Take all measures to prevent water from glass units from getting into the space between the frame and the ebb. For a guarantee, you can coat the seat with silicone.

Step 1. Install the drip tray in place, on the side surfaces of the window opening, mark the place of its position along the upper surface. Do not forget that the ebb must be installed at an angle for a reliable drainage of water.

Step 2. Remove it, with a cement-sand mass, level the lower slope to the level of the marked lines. While working, use the same tools with which you worked on the upper slope. It is not necessary to achieve special cleanliness of the surface, it will close anyway.

Step 3. After the mass hardens, install the ebb over the window. Cover it with a cloth or plastic film against possible dirt or damage.

Now you can start finishing the side surfaces of the slopes. The workflow algorithm is almost the same. First, the boards are installed on the sides, the position is leveled with a level or plumb line. Next, the solution is thrown, the alignment is always done from the bottom up, so less mass falls on the ebb. It lingers on the surface of the rule and is thrown into a container.

Finishing works

On the second day, you can remove the guide boards. Remove the retaining nails or dowels, do not open the rail towards you, but carefully pull it away from the slopes, press it firmly against the wall. This will help to avoid chipping of the fresh plaster.

There will certainly be small gaps under the board, cover them with a trowel, level the surfaces with grout. After the slopes are completely dry, the surfaces can be painted with facade water-based paint (white or colored) or decorative plaster can be made with the same material as on the facade walls.

Plastic slopes

The variant is not common, but it has the right to life. The use of plastic slopes makes it possible to complete the production of slopes in one day. We do not recommend doing them for one reason - the service life of plastic slopes is about 15 years, do you really want to engage in construction work again after this time? Slopes are made of plastic panels for external work, the color and texture should be in harmony with the appearance of the facade walls of the building.

A supporting frame must be made for plastic slopes. It can be made from rolled metal or wooden slats. There is no fundamental difference, lumber is reliably protected from the effects of atmospheric precipitation, the service life is the same as that of metal. We will consider making the simplest version of the frame - from wooden slats.

Step 1. Select the slats of the required length and thickness. They should fit into the space between the wall and the window frame. If necessary, correct the surface of the wall or reduce the thickness of the battens in some places. The slats must be fixed along the perimeter of the slope: at the bottom and top and on both sides of the opening. If the plastic windows are large, then put in addition several battens on all planes. Pre-fix them with liquid nails, fill the cracks with polyurethane foam. After the foam hardens, the slats can be fixed to the wall with several dowels to increase stability. But it is not necessary to do this, the frame will hold very firmly as it is. The foam that comes out after hardening will be cut off.

Step 2. Install guide boards on the walls at the top and on both sides of the opening. How this is done is described above.

Step 3. Replace the ebb. Installation technology depends on the type of product.

Step 4. Check the position of the timber frame. All battens should lie in the same plane, side, bottom and top slopes at an angle. Observe the verticality of the side slopes.

Step 5... Take the exact measurements, prepare plastic panels and decorative corners.

Practical advice. It is better to start the installation of the panels from the fixing side. At this point, the panels have a nice rounding, nothing will have to be repaired. Cut a thin plastic strip to which the staples or nails are fixed, and press this edge against the frame.

Step 6. Measure and cut each panel separately. You can cut it with an assembly knife, an electric jigsaw or a grinder. It is best to do this operation on a machine for cutting ceramic tiles - the angle is precisely adjusted, the cut is obtained with a perfectly even "factory" cut.

Step 7. Fix the plastic slopes with a stapler, small nails or self-tapping screws in the place provided by the manufacturer. Press the panels firmly, do not leave gaps. If the window is large, then the slope is additionally glued to the wooden transverse battens with liquid nails.

Step 8. Close the corners with decorative corners, fix them with liquid nails. Cut the corners at the joints at an angle of 45 °.

This option for making slopes is best used if the whole house is finished with plastic panels. Even during wall finishing work, provide for the possibility of making a frame for slopes.

Council of professionals. It is very difficult for novice craftsmen to cut the corners exactly at an angle of 45 °, there is always a gap at the junction points. Of course, it can be covered with a sealant or silicone, but the correction is noticeable, the appearance deteriorates. We recommend cutting only one corner at a 45 ° angle and the other at a 90 ° angle. From the corner at 45 °, the lower area of ​​the square is cut off, and the thin upper one overlaps the cut at 90 °. This technique completely eliminates the likelihood of gaps formation, there are no joints, the elements overlap. At whatever angle you cut, the cut is always positioned on the bottom whole area.

Prices for plastic slopes

Plastic slopes

How to mount slopes on special profiles

To make a slope, you will need plastic profiles and sandwich panels.

The dimensions of the panels are selected taking into account the parameters of the window. During the installation process, pieces are cut from the whole panel according to the dimensions of the vertical and horizontal slopes. You can cut with a grinder with a disc for metal, an electric jigsaw, an assembly knife or other tools. If burrs have formed during cutting, then they are removed with the edge of a knife or with a sandpaper.

Step 1. The plastic U-shaped profile is screwed along the perimeter of the window frame. Check the horizontal and vertical position carefully. The ends of plastic slopes are installed in this profile. Use small self-tapping screws to fix it.

Important. It must be remembered that the violation of the integrity of the metal profile of the window frame with self-tapping screws negatively affects its performance.

First, fix the two extreme self-tapping screws, after checking the position of the element, screw in the fasteners every 15–20 cm.

Step 2. Check the dimensions are correct. All is well - insert the slope into the profile. Use a piece of plastic to make work easier. Insert it into the gap between the panel and the profile and gradually move it along the panel, press on the end. The element will fit into the groove along its entire length without much effort.

Step 3. Stick a strip of masking tape on the other (free) end of the slope and leave loose pieces. With their help, it will then be fixed to the wall before foaming. The scotch tape will prevent the slopes from bending under the influence of the expanding foam.

Step 4. Carefully seal the gap between the slope and the wall, set the elements in a horizontal position and fix its position with free pieces of tape. Remember to wet the surfaces. Water not only improves adhesion, but also accelerates foam hardening.

Polyurethane sealant prices

Polyurethane sealant

Step 5. Cut off any excess foam. Install decorative corners or platbands depending on the material and technology for finishing the outer walls.

That's all, according to the same algorithm, you can trim all the remaining plastic windows, regardless of their size and method of opening / closing.

Wooden slopes

Such slopes are installed on houses made of rounded logs without additional external cladding or on houses made of ordinary timber, the external walls of which are finished with natural clapboard.

For the street, you can use two options for slopes: from natural lining or furniture board. The furniture board is made of glued boards - the likelihood of deformations under the influence of atmospheric precipitation is excluded. Wide boards will definitely warp and will not work. If they are firmly fixed on the frame, then there will be no warping, but very deep cracks form. In this regard, it is not recommended to use them as a material for the manufacture of slopes. For example, we will consider an option from a furniture board with a thickness of about 1 cm.

Step 1. Take measurements, cut the slope blanks along them. Do everything with maximum precision, furniture panels are expensive. Use only serviceable and adjusted tools, observe safety precautions. Woodworking machines and tools belong to the category of the most dangerous mechanisms, the injuries from them are very serious. The sketch of the slopes can be quite complex, all sides at different angles, etc. If you have little experience in sizing - make a template out of cardboard. Resize it several times until it looks good. Using a template, cut out the side and top slopes for each PVC window.

Step 2. Install the low tide, do not forget to make the slope. To increase the strength under the drain, it is recommended to make a frame. For manufacturing, it is better to use slats 20 × 50 mm, be sure to soak them with an antiseptic. If not, dry the slats well in a warm room or under a fan and cover several times with ordinary vegetable oil, it perfectly protects against putrefactive processes.

Step 3... Try on the slope, install it end-to-end in the gap between the frame of the plastic window and the wall. Level up its position.

Step 4. Secure the wooden slope in place. To do this, you need small screws or studs and trimming strips about ten centimeters long. Beam the slats to the slope and the frame, always at the top and bottom, the distance between the fixing points is no more than 20 cm. Strong fastening is a prerequisite for the next operation.

Step 5. Use a spray bottle to moisten well the gap between the slope and the wall. Cover it with polyurethane foam. If the width of the slope is large, then you will have to foam in two steps. To prevent the foam from bending the wooden slope, we made it securely fixed with slats.

Step 6. After hardening, cut off the remaining foam, check the strength of fixing the slopes. Practice shows that you no longer need to do any additional fastenings.

Step 7. Prepare platbands. Wooden slopes must be trimmed with platbands. Nail them to the slopes with studs or self-tapping screws, the attachment points can be putty.

When choosing plastic materials for slopes, be sure to pay attention to UV resistance. Never work with plastic for indoor use, it is absolutely unsuitable for street slopes.

Metal porch: installation instructions Window drips