TEXTILE INDUSTRY OF RUSSIA: STATE AND PROSPECTS OF DEVELOPMENT

Resume: the article is focused on the analysis of the state of the textile industry and the factors affecting this state. The main problems and possible solutions are noted.

Key words: textile industry, investments, strategy

Abstract: this paper focuses on the analysis of the state of the textile industry and the factors affecting this state. The main problems and their possible solutions.

Keywords: textile industry, investment, strategy

Main part

This article examines the main problems of the textile industry of the Russian Federation, the solution of these problems, emphasizes the measures to eliminate them, and also considers the necessity and importance of using innovative products.

The purpose of the scientific article- Analysis of the current state of the textile industry in Russia, identification of problems and the search for methods for their solution.

Scientific controversy in the field of this problem, the following scientists are engaged:

A. K. Izgorodin “The textile industry provides its products to both the population (various types of clothing, bed linen, household items and interior), and various branches of engineering and non-engineering activities - electronics and nanoelectronics, energy, rocketry and automotive engineering, micromechanics, robotics, agriculture, road construction etc. Therefore, development in this industry is important "

M. I. Berkovich “The problem of competitiveness is decisive at all levels of the economy - from the country to an individual product. At the same time, the least developed is the assessment of the competitiveness of industries that are not leaders, but play an important role in the country's economy. "

S. N. SPERANSKY "Managing the economic sustainability of textile enterprises allowing the management of the enterprise to develop an action plan to increase economic sustainability in various scenarios of current events"

Research methods of scientific material... The following methods of scientific knowledge were used in the article: analysis and synthesis, deduction and induction method, modeling method and others.

Textile and clothing industry makes a significant contribution to the development of light industry and it is the pace of this production that determines the movement of the industry as a whole.

The development of the textile industry is determined by the rate of production of fabrics (see table. 1) (the contribution is about 24%), the production of textiles (15%, including bed linen), nonwovens(18%), knitwear (19%).

Table 1 - growth rates of investments in light industry,%

I would like to note that in the near future there are no prospects that would make it possible to radically change the state of the industry. One can expect an increase in factors, by 3.4% for the production of leather, 2.5% for the production of footwear and leather goods, due to the strengthening of factors affecting the growth of the state economy (including the growth of real disposable income of the population)

According to experts, there will be improvements in textile production due to the implementation of measures state support(due to participation in the implementation of the state order, in sewing school uniform) in the manufacture of fabrics.

The prospects for the textile industry are vague, since it is not so much restrained consumer demand as a factor of chronological technological lag in improvement and development in the textile industry from Western countries (see Fig. 1)

Most of the tissue is transported by gray schemes, importers save on customs duties and taxes. Our textile industry is not able to compete, unless, of course, it also goes into the shadows.

Figure 1 - The share of textile enterprises using technological innovations, by country.

Statistics show that for the second decade the textile industry has been in decline (on average by 4% per year), and there are more and more companies that operate at a loss. The capacities of textile factories are on average 25% utilized. (see fig. 2). But, one way or another, the fabric industry in the Russian Federation is rather alive.

The Russian textile industry feels confident only in the production of textiles for household utensils and bed linen (since other products are not in demand on the domestic market) (see Fig. 3). In 2015, the decline in real disposable cash income of the population may be 4%. competing textile investment marketing

Figure 2 - Producer price index for textile products.

The production of synthetic fibers, mixed fabrics (natural fabric with synthetic) is just beginning to develop, as it requires the most complex technological levels of production and equipment. The main consumer of such fabrics is furniture companies but, unfortunately, they use the services of European manufacturers.

Garment factories that produce inexpensive products are not able to compete with manufacturers from Southeast Asia, as their technologies are dynamically changing. There are several factors that prevent domestic factories from competing. The first factor is the high dependence on foreign production of raw materials, plus the cost of raw materials, a high customs duty and VAT are added, which increases the cost of the final product by at least 30%. In Russia, you can find manufacturers of this raw material, but their number is small - only 25%. These are mainly wool and linen. Everything in table 2.

Table 2 - number of active organizations in the textile industry

Another factor is dependence on imported equipment. High duties impede the renovation of factories (at some large factories, equipment has not been changed since the 50s).

The times for Russian textile factories are not coming, and this is a reason to change their strategy, not competing with manufacturers from Southeast Asia, constantly losing product quality. This strategy will not pay dividends. You need to be able to create a production where the price of fabric will be comparable to Asian products, and close in quality to European ones. Plus competitive advantages Russian factories in the European market in that they are closer to European markets than Asian suppliers, which significantly reduces both the price and delivery time.

Based on the analysis results, 4 main strategic directions development of light industry in Russia until 2025:

I. Establishment of production of chemical (synthetic and artificial) fibers in Russia with a focus on export.

II. the creation in Russia of the production of leather materials for the clothing and footwear, as well as for the furniture and automotive industries.

III. creation favorable conditions for the localization of the production of clothing, footwear and textiles.

Table 3 - volume of goods shipped own production, performed works and services on their own by type economic activity(in actual prices; billion rubles)

It is necessary to create an effective sales system, because it is necessary to compete not only with the price of goods and quality, but also with the service. And that is why large Russian textile enterprises create their own sales bases (wholesale bases, retail stores) - this gives them opportunities such as:

I. price control

II. accurate determination of sales volumes

III. makes it possible to be closer to the consumer

IV. restrict competitors' access to the local market

V. control financial flows and respond promptly to demand.

Bibliographic list

• 1. Melnikova O.V., Marchenko A.A. // news of the higher educational institutions... textile industry technology pages: 200-203 (circulation date 20.04.2016)
• 2. Konkov P.A., Moryganov A.P., Stokozenko V.G., Zakharov A.G. // Textile industry (date of circulation 20.04.2016)
• 3. Popov A.A.1, Kalmykova T.N. // modern problems of science and education pages: 421 (date of treatment 20.04.2016)
• 4. Selivanova U.I. // infrastructure sectors of the economy: problems and development prospects pages: 59-64 (date of circulation 20.04.2016)
• 5. Myrkhalykov Zh.U., Tashmenov R.S., Dzhanpaizova VM, Ashirbekova G.Sh. // Science and the world pages: 56-58 (date of treatment 20.04.2016)
• 6. Temnova N.K. // news of higher educational institutions. textile technology pages: 5-11 (cited date 20.04.2016)
• 7. Ibragimova N.U., Gabitova Z.R., Nigmatullina R.A. // Bulletin of the Bashkir University Pages: 933-940 (date of treatment 20.04.2016)
• 8. Teslenko I.B, Kovalenko S.Yu. // Journal: news of higher educational institutions. Textile industry technology pages: 17-120 (date of circulation 20.04.2016)

* Calculations are based on average data for Russia

GENERAL INFORMATION

Textiles are products made from flexible, soft fibers and threads (fabric, cotton wool, nets, etc.), usually made from yarn on a loom. Textiles also include fabrics that are not fabrics: knitwear, felt, modern nonwovens, etc.

The textile industry is a group of light industry branches engaged in the processing of vegetable (cotton, flax, hemp, kenaf, jute, ramie), animals (wool, silk of silkworm cocoons), artificial and synthetic fibers into yarn, threads, fabrics. It includes the following industries:

cotton

woolen

silk

woolen

silk

• hemp jute

Textile is one of the main materials used in light industry. Until the end of the 19th century, only natural materials were used in the textile industry - cotton, wool, silk. Then, artificial (based on natural polymers) and synthetic (from hydrocarbon raw materials) fibers are becoming more widespread.

CLASSIFIER OKVED

According to the All-Russian Classifier of Economic Activities (OKVED), textile production belongs to the section 17 of the same name, which has the following major subsections:

17.1 "Spinning textile fibers"

17.2 "Weaving"

17.3 "Finishing of fabrics and textiles"

17.4 "Manufacture of finished textile products, except for clothing"

17.5 "Manufacture of other textiles"

17.6 "Production of knitted fabric"

17.7 "Manufacture of knitwear"

INDUSTRY SITUATION ANALYSIS

Today, the situation in the world is developing in such a way that the bulk of textile production is concentrated in developing countries that have sufficient raw materials (for example, cotton) and cheap labor. Developed countries import fabrics to make ready-made garments from them, which are then exported to developing countries. At the same time, territorially, the production itself, belonging to a developed country, may be located in another state.

The light industry of the USSR covered all stages of production - from the production (cultivation) of raw materials to the manufacture of garments. Today, the domestic light industry is experiencing serious difficulties associated primarily with the non-competitiveness of products at a price - Asian countries employing cheap labor offer significantly cheaper products. At the same time, the quality of Russian fabrics is often significantly higher. The share of domestic products today is no more than 30% of the market. It is practically impossible to determine more precisely the quantity due to the presence of “gray” imports. According to experts, the only competitive segment is the production of workwear, supported by government orders.

In the same time, Russian manufacturers are experiencing a shortage of capital for the development and modernization of enterprises. Demand due to the crisis in the economy is significantly decreasing. Consumer sentiment and business confidence indices have hit record lows in the past two years. The worst forecasts are associated with the textile and clothing industries.

Some hopes are raised by the course of import substitution, however, most enterprises are not ready for it due to the lack of sufficient production facilities, as well as due to the high share of imported components in production - from raw materials to equipment. Against the background of the weakening ruble, this becomes critical for the industry.

Some experts do not see the point in locating a full production cycle in Russia and call for repeating world practice, in particular, the development of imports of textiles from the PRC, as well as the placement of sewing factories there.

Nevertheless, the Government of the Russian Federation plans to develop programs for the development and subsidies of the industry. In particular, there is a draft program for the development of light industry until 2025, according to which the share of Russian products should increase from 25% to 50%. The analysis carried out as part of the development of this program shows that the segment of the production of synthetic fibers has the greatest potential, which can be based on an already existing petrochemical complex. This will give 2.5 times greater effect than the development of natural textile production.

Based on the results of the analysis, 4 main strategic directions for the development of light industry were identified, one of which relates directly to the textile industry: “the creation in Russia of the production of chemical (synthetic and artificial) fibers with an export orientation, primarily through the development of polyester and viscose fibers and threads. Reorientation of mass textile production towards synthetic materials(including both garment textiles and technical textiles). The cumulative effect from the implementation of this direction is 0.19% of GDP, and 0.12% of them is the effect of the development of the technical textiles segment. "

Ready-made ideas for your business

At the same time, the advantage of Russia is its geographical proximity to the main markets for polyester fibers - the CIS countries, China, Turkey, etc. The CIS countries have the greatest export potential - 60-70 thousand tons of exports from the Russian Federation by 2025 and Europe - 100-150 thousand tons. The volume of production of polyester fibers in Russia can reach 950 thousand tons, which will provide 80% of the domestic demand.

Another promising material is viscose, which is a cheaper alternative to cotton. Raw materials for viscose, cellulose, produced in Russia in sufficient quantities... The export potential of viscose is great. The volume of viscose fibers and yarns produced in Russia can reach up to 600 thousand tons, thus providing up to 80% of local consumption and exporting up to 400 thousand tons to the CIS countries, Europe, Turkey, Africa.

The main demand for synthetic fabrics in the domestic and foreign markets can be provided by technical textiles. The world market for technical textiles is estimated at $ 130 billion and is growing by an average of 3% annually. The volume of the Russian market of technical textiles in 2012 was estimated in physical terms at 320 thousand tons, and in monetary terms - at 77 billion rubles.

Technical textiles have many areas of use: in clothing, agriculture, furniture production, industry, construction, etc. The state plans to develop a number of measures to provide special support to the segment and protect it from external influences.

ANALYSIS OF DATA FROM THE FEDERAL STATE STATISTICS SERVICE

Rosstat data, which the service receives by collecting official data from market participants, may not coincide with data from analytical agencies, whose analytics are based on surveys and the collection of unofficial data.

Figure 1. Dynamics of financial indicators of the industry in 2007-2015, thousand rubles.

Figure 2. Dynamics of financial coefficients of the industry in 2007-2015, thousand rubles.

Ready-made ideas for your business

According to the Federal State Statistics Service, in the period from 2007 to 2015. there is a stable trend of revenue growth in the industry. Since there are no data on sales volumes in physical terms, it is not possible to conclude whether revenue is growing only due to price increases, or sales volumes in units of products are also growing. At the same time, indicators of gross profitability and profitability of sales are also growing. Especially a sharp increase happened in 2015. These data are somewhat at odds with the data of independent sources.

The indicators of accounts receivable (in 2015 + 67% versus 2007) and accounts payable (in 2015 + 101% versus 2007) significantly increased, which indicates problems in mutual settlements with customers and suppliers. High receivables may indicate a shortage of working capital, which can be covered with loans. The dynamics of the ratio of borrowed and own funds confirms this conclusion: the ratio of borrowed funds to equity increased from 3.66 times in 2007 to 5.62 times in 2015.

Figure 3. Accounts receivable and payable by industry in 2007-2015, thousand rubles.

Figure 4. Shares of regions in the gross revenue of the industry in 2015

CONCLUSION

Despite the positive data from Rosstat, the textile industry in Russia is in decline due to low level competitiveness of products. The market is filled with cheap products from Southeast Asia, most of which are "gray" imports.

Some experts believe that the way out of their current situation is to accept experience. developed countries importing textile products. The government of the Russian Federation, however, has developed programs for the support and development of light industry, including the textile industry, as an integral part of it. It is planned to develop a specialized segment of polyester fabrics.

In general, even with a successful reorganization of the industry, it is hardly worth expecting its growth in the next 5-7 years. The technologies used in the industry are highly labor and capital intensive.

Ready-made ideas for your business

Denis Miroshnichenko
(c) - portal of business plans and guides for starting a small business

756 people are studying this business today.

For 30 days this business was interested in 23496 times.

Calculator for calculating the profitability of this business

rent + salaries + utilities etc. rub.

The growth of the market by 2020, according to experts' forecasts, may amount to five times the volume of 2014.

Despite a number of difficulties associated with the overall difficult economic situation in the country, as well as with imperfect legislation and insufficient level of state support, the industry demonstrates ...

Based on the data obtained, it can be concluded that the construction industry is currently at the final stage of growth in recent years, followed by a long decline. Duration ...

All over the world, the Internet and television are becoming more and more popular channels for the media. A significant part of the total market revenues is concentrated in these segments.

Tomato market in Russia: harvests are increasing, imports are decreasing, so far no one can replace Turkish greenhouse tomatoes.

A distinctive feature is the low profitability of this type of goods, however, due to large sales volumes and fast turnover, they represent an economically profitable category.

V last years the Russian duck meat market is showing significant growth. Since 2010, the production of duck meat at poultry farms has grown by 13.5 times.

Textile industry(from Latin textile - fabric, matter), one of the oldest and largest industries light industry, produced from various types of plant, animal and chemical (artificial and synthetic) fibers textile fabrics, jersey. and other products. The production of goods occupies one of the most important places in the production of a social product and in meeting the needs of the population. The industry includes the following branches: primary processing of textile raw materials, cotton, linen, woolen, silk, nonwovens, hemp-jute, net-knitting, textile haberdashery, knitted fabrics, and felted-felt. The products of the industrial sector are used for the production of clothing and footwear, as well as in other branches of industry (for example, furniture, machine-building).

The production of textiles originated in ancient times. Cultivation of cotton and hand made yarns and fabrics were known in India, China and Egypt for many centuries BC. The industrial sector was the first industry to embark on the path of machine production. This industry began industrial revolution in the second half of the 18th century.

In Russia, along with cloth factories and capitalist home production, there was a large number of small enterprises producing woolen products. These enterprises belonged to landowners and were based on the labor of serfs. “Cloth production,” wrote V. I. Lenin, “is an example of that distinctive phenomenon in Russian history, which consists in the application of serf labor to industry” (Poln. Sobr. Soch., 5th ed., Vol. 3, p. 471 ).

At the beginning of the 18th century. Many large woolen (cloth), linen (mainly sail and linen) and silk manufactories arose, which were created in areas where the population had long been engaged in home production of linen fabrics (see. Home industry ). The cotton industry arose in Russia much later than other branches of the textile industry and developed on the basis of linen weaving. Relatively large cotton factories appeared in the second half of the 18th and early 19th centuries.

In pre-revolutionary Russia, manufacturing was one of the main branches of the manufacturing industry. In 1913, it accounted for 20.5 percent of all industrial production and about 32 percent of the production of consumer goods. The T. p. Was located mainly in the Central region (factory of the V. Morozov partnership, the company of the Bogorodsko-Glukhovskaya manufactory, the industrial partnership of the Nosov brothers, the Silk manufactory Musi-Guzhon. Prokhorovskaya manufactory, etc.), as well as in the St. Petersburg region, in the Astrakhan and Saratov provinces. V Central Asia and Kazakhstan, that is, in the main raw material regions, it was not. The development of the textile industry was held back by a shortage of raw materials for textiles and its dependence on imports. The main enterprises of the industrial sector were equipped mainly with imported textile machines. Domestic mechanical engineering satisfied only a little more than 20% of the demand for machine tools and machinery. The knitwear and silk-winding industries, textile haberdashery, the primary processing of flax, wool, and others were only in their infancy.

The position of the workers of the Trade Union was extremely difficult. Child labor was widely used.

After the 1st World War 1914-18, Civil war 1918-20 production volume fell sharply. Already in the first years of Soviet power, along with the launch of old textile enterprises, new factories were built. By 1926-27 factories were put into operation: them. Lakina, "Pioneer" (Vladimir region), weaving factory named after FE Dzerzhinsky in Leningrad, spinning factory "Krasnaya Talka" them. F.E.Dzerzhinsky in Ivanovo. The total output of cotton, linen, woolen and silk fabrics exceeded the level of 1913. During the years of the first five-year plan (1929–32), 13 cotton, 3 linen, 4 woolen, and a number of other textile enterprises were put into operation. In the second five-year plan (1933-37), the construction of the first stages of the Tashkent and Barnaul cotton mills, the Dushanbe textile mill, flax mills in Smolensk, Orsha, and Kostroma, a cloth mill in Semipalatinsk, a silk-weaving factory in Nukha, and other enterprises of the etc. was completed.

As a result of the increase in production. production capacities of cotton fabrics in 1940 significantly exceeded the level of 1913 (see Table 1). the production of knitwear increased from 8.3 million in 1928 to 186 million in 1940.

Tab. 1. - Production of fabrics in the USSR in 1913-40, mln. m 2

Cotton Woolen Silk

During the years of the pre-war five-year plans, a trade union was created in the union republics of Central Asia and Transcaucasia. A new branch of the textile industry emerged — the production of nonwoven materials such as fabrics. During the Great Patriotic War 1941-45 The military production in the territory temporarily occupied by the German fascist troops suffered great damage. Many businesses were destroyed. In the 4th five-year plan (1946-50), the production of industrial products was restored and the output of its products exceeded the pre-war level. After the war, all branches of the industrial sector received significant development... The enterprises of the cotton industry were built in Kamyshin, Engels, Kherson. Barnaul (2nd combine), Dushanbe (2nd stage), Cheboksary, Yartsevo, Omsk, Gori, Krasnodar, Alytus, Kalinin, Alma-Ata, Bukhara, etc .; enterprises of the woolen industry - in Minsk, Bryansk, Ivanov, Krasnodar, Tyumen, Chernigov, Chita, Chernogorsk; silk industry - in Krasnoyarsk, Naro-Fominsk. Kalinin, Leningrad; linen industry - in Zhitomir, Rivne, Velikiye Luki, Panevezys; knitting industry - in Cheboksary, Ufa, Pinsk. Ogre, Kursk, etc. Commissioning of new capacities, introduction of high-performance equipment, transfer of enterprises to new system planning and economic incentives helped to accelerate the growth rate of production of fabrics and knitwear. The development of T. p. In 1950-74 is characterized by the data in the table. 2. In the production of woolen and linen fabrics, the USSR (1975) ranks first in the world.

Tab. 2. - Production of the main types of products of the textile industry in the USSR in 1950-75, mln. m 2

Cotton Woolen Silk Underwear and outerwear, mln. Pieces

The growth in production is ensured by a corresponding increase in the production of textile raw materials. In pre-revolutionary Russia, with the production of 4 times less cotton fabrics and an almost complete absence of production of knitwear, about 50% of the consumed cotton fiber was imported from the USA and Egypt. The USSR fully satisfies its needs for raw materials and exports over 500 thousand T cotton fiber. At the same time, it changed and qualitative composition textile raw materials. Artificial fiber factories have mastered the production of new types of products (acetate silk, lavsan, nitron, etc.). Much attention is paid to improving the quality and expanding the range of textile products through the introduction of new structures of fabrics and knitwear, the use of strong and bright dyes and careful finishing of fabrics. A further increase in output and improvement in product quality is due to technical re-equipment enterprises, etc., the introduction of new technology and progressive technology, as well as mechanization and automation of production. In the industrial sector, spinning and twisting, high-performance carding and rotor spinning machines, pneumatic rapier and other shuttleless weaving machines are being installed.

Scientific and technological progress in the industrial sectors and the growth of workers' qualifications contribute to an increase in labor productivity. Thus, the output of yarn per worker per hour on average increased in 1974 in comparison with 1940 in the cotton industry by 2.4 times, in the woolen industry by 3.5 times, and in the linen industry by 2.3 times. The production of harsh fabrics over the same period increased by an average of 1 worker per hour, respectively, 2.2 times, 2.4 times. 2.3 times.

(1975) 10 research and development 5 design institutes, in which more than 7,000 specialists of various profiles work, are serviced. Textile institutes have been set up in Moscow, Leningrad, Ivanov, Tashkent, Kostroma, and Kiev, as well as a number of technical schools for the training of technologists and artists.

T. p. Is successfully developing in foreign socialist countries... Fabric production in these countries is increasing based on the use of internal capabilities each country and all-round cooperation between them. The level of production of fabrics in the socialist countries is given in table. 3. According to estimates, the production of cotton fabrics in the PRC in 1974 amounted to 8.34 billion running m.

Tab. 3. - Production of fabrics in foreign socialist countries. million m 2

Bulgaria Czechoslovakia Yugoslavia	Cotton		Woolen		Silk
	185,0 246,5 416,6 604,0 248,3 453,1	338,7 351,4 473,2 952,7 591,1 547,9 375,5	30,8 147,1 108,7 29,8	36,2 106,7 181,3 78,1		54,5 120,6 193,3 88,8 102,9 39.5

Among the capitalist countries, the industrial sector has been most developed in the USA, Japan, Great Britain, France, the Federal Republic of Germany, and Italy. The production of cotton fabrics in 1975 (billion. m 2): 4.0 in the USA, 1.9 in Japan, 0.9 in Germany, France and Italy, 0.4 in Great Britain; woolen fabrics (mln. m 2): in Japan 320, Italy 250, Great Britain 180, France 170, Germany and the USA 100 each; silk fabrics (mln. m 2): in the USA 6500, Japan 3000, Germany 420, Great Britain 401, France 370, Italy 280 (1974).

Among developing countries, the production of cotton fabrics in 1974 was: in India 7.95 billion running m, in Egypt 275 million running m, in Iran 495 million linear m(together with synthetic fiber fabrics, in 1972/73).

Lit .: Lyashchenko P.I .. History of the national economy of the USSR, vol. 1, Moscow. 1952; Khromov P. A .. Essays on the economy of the textile industry of the USSR, M.-L. 1946; Vladimirsky N. N. From home weaving to socialist textile production, Kostroma, 1949; Korneev A, M .. The textile industry of the USSR and the ways of its development, M .. 1957.

A. M. Zharov, I. K. Khmelevsky.

Great Soviet Encyclopedia M .: " Soviet encyclopedia", 1969-1978

108. Textile industry of the world

The textile industry is the most important branch of the light industry, providing about half of the total volume of its production, and also occupying the first place in it in terms of the number of employees. Its main function is the production of consumer goods, primarily fabrics and knitwear. Along with this, it satisfies many production needs with its products. Depending on the raw materials used, the textile industry is usually subdivided into several subsectors - cotton, woolen, silk, linen, chemical fibers as well as knitted and nonwoven fabrics.

The textile industry is the oldest of all branches of the modern industry. It was with her that the industrial revolution began in England in the 18th century, which marked the transition from manufacturing to factory production, which, after the invention of the steam engine, also led to the formation of the first large industrial regions. Then this path of capitalist industrialization was followed by other European countries, Russia, the United States, and some Asian countries. For a long time, the textile industry remained the leading industry in most developed countries of the world, but in the XX century. its share in both gross output and employment of the economically active population began to decline, and in the second half of the same century it entered a period of prolonged structural crisis. As the countries of Asia, Africa and Latin America the relationship between the North (which in the 19th century, with the help of the export of its cheap factory textiles, contributed to the actual destruction of this industry in many colonial and semi-colonial countries, for example, India), and the South began to change.

The textile industry is not one of the dynamically developing sectors of the world economy. At least in the 90s. XX century world production of all types of fabrics remained at about 100–120 billion m 2 per year. The growth rate of the world consumption of textile fibers, which grew rather rapidly until the early 1990s, then slowed down (fig. 83). However, this does not mean at all that the industry has remained, as it were, in the "rain shadow" of the scientific and technological revolution. On the contrary, the scientific and technological revolution had a very great impact on it - primarily due to the automation and electronization of textile production, changes in its structure, nature of placement, etc. the last decades have had two factors. First, it is dramatic shifts in its resource base and, accordingly, in its sectoral structure. Secondly, it is changing the role of individual orientation factors its location, which led to very significant shifts in its territorial structure.

Rice. 83. Dynamics of world production of textile fibers in 1950-2005

Let us first dwell on the characteristics of the raw material base of the textile industry. The main change in this area, closely related to the achievements of scientific and technological revolution, is a gradual but steady reducing the proportion of natural fibers and an increase in the proportion of chemical fibers, especially synthetic ones. This made it possible to significantly expand and strengthen the raw material base of the industry. How exactly the proportion between natural and chemical fibers changed is shown in table 117.

Analysis of table 117 shows that by the mid-1990s. consumption of natural and man-made fibers has actually become equal. At the same time, the structure of consumption of natural fibers has changed quite little: as before, 80% of it is accounted for by cotton, 11% - by wool, and the rest - by other types of these fibers. The structure of consumption of chemical fibers, on the contrary, has changed very much in recent decades: for example, in 1955 the ratio of artificial (viscose) and synthetic fibers was in the ratio 90:10, and in mid-2005 - 7:93.

Table 117

CHANGE OF THE WORLD STRUCTURE OF TEXTILE FIBER PRODUCTION IN 1950-2005

Another important structural and technological innovation of the scientific and technological revolution era is the rapid development of knitwear production, which in Western countries has become almost the main sub-branch of the entire textile industry, surpassing the production of fabrics in terms of production cost. This is largely due to the fact that labor productivity in knitwear production is several times higher than, for example, in weaving. But the industry of nonwovens, which are increasingly used for technical purposes, developed at an even faster pace. In addition, labor productivity in this sub-industry is even higher than in knitwear.

Changes in the raw material base of the industry have largely determined shifts in its sectoral structure. V early XXI v. the world produced 92 million m 2 of cotton fabrics (on average 14 m 2 per capita), 21-22 million m 2 of silk fabrics (9 m 2 per capita), 2.5 million m 2 of woolen fabrics (0.5 m 2 per head) and even less linen and other types of fabrics. As for chemical fibers, it should be borne in mind that they are now mainly used in so-called blended fabrics, that is, in combination with wool, silk, cotton (in particular, this applies to the most massive polyester fiber).

For example, almost all production of silk fabrics these days is based on chemical fibers.

Changes in the geography of the global textile industry are also partly due to shifts in its raw material base, but they are even more dependent on factors such as the cost of labor. It turned out that in this respect the differences between economically developed and developing countries are truly enormous: for example, in Indonesia, the cost of labor is $ 0.24 per hour, in Pakistan - 0.4, in India and China - 0.6, and in USA - 13, in France - 14-15, in Germany - 21-22 dollars per hour. It was the cheapness of labor that played a decisive role in the “great migration” of the textile (and, let's add, clothing) industry from developed to developing countries, which has been taking place at least over the past three decades. It should be borne in mind that in India,

Pakistan, Bangladesh, Syria, Turkey, Iran, Egypt, Morocco, Mexico, Colombia, Brazil, Argentina, this industry developed before World War II and, therefore, needed significant modernization, and in the newly industrialized countries of Asia (for example, Thailand) it was formed relatively recently on a completely modern technical basis. In the 1990s. the process of reducing the production of fabrics (except for mixed fabrics) in developed countries and an increase in their production in developing countries continued especially actively. As a result, from 1970 to 1990, the countries of the South almost doubled their production on the world market and at the beginning of the XXI century. their share in the world production of fabrics has already reached 2/3.

The same geographic shift can be traced to the example of individual subsectors of the textile industry, primarily the main one, cotton. To do this, it is enough to get acquainted with the top ten countries for the production of cotton fabrics. Developing countries, although they do not predominate in it quantitatively, far surpass the developed ones in terms of production (Table 118).

The same shift can be clearly seen in the production of fabrics from chemical fibers, but less so in the production of woolen and silk fabrics. It is important to add that the developing world also has its own differences. For example, the sub-regions of East and Southeast Asia have now become a kind of epicenter of the world textile industry.

Table 118

TOP TEN COUNTRIES BY COTTON FABRIC PRODUCTION SIZE IN 2005

The main geographical shift described above is also associated with changes in foreign trade in textiles. Back in the mid-1980s. developing countries accounted for about 1/4 of the world's textile exports, but now their share is much larger. In many of these countries, the textile industry has a pronounced export orientation, so that 2/3 and even 3/4 of the goods it produces are sometimes sent to foreign markets. That is why China (together with Hong Kong) occupies the first place in the export of textiles in the world today (together with Xianggang), and among developed countries the group of leaders includes Italy, Germany, the USA, and the Republic of Korea.

Russian textile industry in the 1990s was in a state of deepest crisis: in the first half of that decade alone, its production decreased by 80%. As a result, the share of the textile industry in the country's GDP declined over the same period from almost 8% to less than 2%, and in the budget revenues - from 26 to 2%. Such a sharp drop in production was caused by a number of reasons, including the loss of all traditional sources of supply of cotton and wool, the residual principle of financing, a low technical level and an ineffective production and organizational structure, which is characterized by many large enterprises (employing more than 1000 people), which does not allow flexible and quick response to market demands. Only in the late 1990s. this recession has been halted, so there is hope for a revival of the country's oldest industry.

The first branch of industry captured by a technical revolution was cotton production. The capitalist organization of the cotton industry stimulated and determined the need to improve production, a wide internal market and rapid capital turnover, highly productive labor of civilian workers ensured rapid progress in this industry. The decisive role in this progressive development was played by the factor of the separation of a significant part of the poorest peasantry from subsistence farming, its dependence on commodity production and the market.

In Russia, the first light industry enterprises appeared in the 17th century. As in other Western countries, the main sphere of distribution of the factory was the young cotton industry, which was ahead of all other industries in terms of growth. Serf labor was almost never used at cotton factories, which was one of the most important factors in the high rates of development. Thanks to the introduction of machine technology, the concentration of production and the use of hired labor, the cotton industry began to have important advantages over other industries, squeezed by the fetters of the feudal serf monopoly. For the rapid mechanization of cotton mills great importance had the use by Russian entrepreneurs of the advanced technical progress of the machine industry in England, where in 1842 the ban on the export of cars abroad was lifted. Until the 19th century, Russian light industry was represented by cloth, linen and other manufactures, created mainly with the help of the state and fulfilling state orders.

The rapid growth of most branches of light industry began in the second half of the 19th century, when landlord factories based on the labor of serfs began to be supplanted by capitalist factories based on the labor of hired workers. This process develops most intensively in the 1860s. V late XIX for centuries, light industry determined the industrial development of Russia, occupying a significant share in the total industrial production(32.4% in 1887, 26.1% in 1900).

Placement of enterprises on the territory Russian Empire was uneven. The largest number of enterprises was in the Moscow, Tver, Vladimir, Petersburg provinces. Light industry enterprises were located in the former centers of handicrafts (weaving, tailoring, lace) with cheap labor. Manual labor prevailed in all branches of light industry; the standard of living of workers in light industry was very low. The main problems of the industry at that time were a weak raw material base and the backwardness of mechanical engineering. Russia imported about half of the necessary raw materials (dyes, raw silk) and almost all the equipment. The items of export were such raw materials as small leather raw materials, silkworm cocoons, morocco, leather, fur.

The economic crisis of 1900-1903 affected the industry one of the first, but it was not as protracted as in other industries. Already in 1908, the output of products in comparison with 1900 increased by 1.5 times (the growth of the purchasing power of the peasants, who were freed from redemption payments in 1905, had an effect). Contemporaries noted that it was the broad strata of the "lower classes" who began to consume cotton fabrics and thereby contributed to the increase in this production.

Pre-revolutionary light industry was characterized by mass labor movements. Ivanovo-Voznesensk weavers created the Council of Commissioners, which actually became one of the first Soviets of Workers' Deputies in Russia. Also, workers in the light industry took an active part in the February and October revolution and the Civil War.

As a result of the First World War, two revolutions and the Civil War, the gross output of light industry fell sharply and in 1921 was approximately 10-15% of the 1913 level. In 1921-1925, the factory footwear, clothing and knitwear industries began to be recreated, and in Central Asia and the Transcaucasus - the silk-winding and silk industries. The construction of new enterprises in various sub-branches has begun: cotton, woolen-worsted, silk-weaving and silk-winding, knitted, sewing, and shoe enterprises. The measures taken made it possible to surpass the production volumes of 1913 by 1928.

During the Great Patriotic War, the light industry of the USSR suffered heavy damage, many light industry enterprises were destroyed. Nevertheless, even during the war, light industry was able to fully provide Soviet soldiers uniforms, shoes and other items of clothing allowance.

In the post-war years, there was a rapid recovery and development of the industry. In 1950, production was 112% of the 1940 volume. In addition, the technical level of many enterprises turned out to be much higher than the pre-war level due to the mechanization and automation of production.

The growth in production is ensured by a corresponding increase in the production of textile raw materials. In pre-revolutionary Russia, with the production of 4 times less cotton fabrics and an almost complete absence of production of knitwear, about 50% of the consumed cotton fiber was imported from the USA and Egypt. The USSR fully satisfies its needs for raw materials and exports over 500 thousand tons of cotton fiber. At the same time, the qualitative composition of textile raw materials has changed. Artificial fiber factories have mastered the production of new types of products (acetate silk, lavsan, nitron, etc.). Much attention is paid to improving the quality and expanding the range of textile products through the introduction of new structures of fabrics and knitwear, the use of strong and bright dyes and careful finishing of fabrics. A further increase in output and an improvement in the quality of products is due to the technical re-equipment of enterprises in the textile industry. The introduction of new technology and progressive technology, as well as mechanization and automation of production. In the textile industry, spinning and twisting, high-performance carding and rotor spinning machines, pneumatic rapier and other shuttleless weaving machines are installed.

The textile industry is served (1975) by 10 research and development 5 design institutes, which employ over 7 thousand specialists in various fields. To train technologists and artists in the textile industry, textile institutes have been established in Moscow, Leningrad, Ivanov, Tashkent, Kostroma, Kiev, as well as a number of technical schools.

The USSR was one of the world leaders in light industry in the world, products were successfully exported to other countries. Soviet Union ranked first in the world in the production of footwear, the second in the production of textiles and clothing. In 1990, the industry's share in the total production of the USSR was 11.9%.

In the 1990s, there was a significant decline in the production of light industry products. The opening of the market led to a massive influx of cheap imported goods. Light industry products turned out to be uncompetitive in comparison with foreign manufacturers, especially with China. The collapse of the USSR complicated the supply of raw materials from the former Soviet republics, especially for the cotton industry, since cotton is not grown in Russia due to its natural and climatic conditions. The share of light industry in GNP began to decline significantly.