First of all, while preparing for thermal insulation, you should decide how to insulate the balcony from the inside. Today the market offers a huge range of thermal insulation materials. With the right choice of insulation material, the result of insulation will be of better quality, and the installation process will be simplified.

All materials for balcony insulation can be compared according to the following parameters:

Let's compare the characteristics of the most popular materials to determine the best way to insulate a balcony.

Mineral wool

It is produced from melts of various rocks. Sold in slabs or rolls.

Benefits of mineral wool:

• excellent heat-insulating qualities;
• does not burn even at the highest temperatures;
• environmentally friendly, does not emit allergenic substances in any state;
• warming loggias or balconies with mineral wool, the thickness of which is only 4 cm, allows you to achieve the effect of thermal insulation, as if a wall was built in two bricks.

The disadvantage is its high hygroscopicity. When wet, this insulation significantly loses its thermal insulation parameters. As a result, when insulating loggias or balconies with mineral wool, you need to worry about guaranteed waterproofing. To do this, it is enough to lay an additional layer inside that protects this type of insulation from the penetration of dampness, for example, a foil-wrapped polyethylene film or penofol, which has excellent vapor and waterproofing parameters.

Characteristics of mineral wool

Mineral wool has the following parameters:

• thermal conductivity coefficient - 0.07-0.045 W / (m * K);
• the degree of moisture absorption - 0.5% of the volume;
• mineral wool does not ignite even at high temperatures;
• it does not lose its thermal insulation parameters for 40 years;
• wool has a variety of types of delivery: in a rigid tiled state, it fits without problems on various surfaces, while in roll form it requires more careful fastening;
• capable of damping noise up to 50 dB;
• affordable cost.

Styrofoam

The most common insulation for loggias and balconies. It is a gas-filled material obtained from a variety of styrene components. He possesses:

• slight absorption of moisture;
• biological purity;
• increased service life;
• this is a fairly light material and simply fits on a different base, but low-density slabs crumble during processing, as a result of which it is recommended to use high-density foam to insulate balconies and loggias inside;
• excellent thermal insulation characteristics;
• ignites at a temperature of 450 0 C.

Recently, in its manufacture, flame retardants are added to the composition, due to which the ignition threshold is significantly increased.

Important! Some manufacturers have added the letter “C” at the end of the marking, which means self-extinguishing.

Styrofoam characteristics

This insulation on the loggia and balcony is very popular due to its excellent characteristics:

• taking into account its density, thermal conductivity ranges from 0.044-0.038 W / (m * K), this is a relatively good indicator;
• moisture absorption coefficient is 1-4% of the volume;
• manufacturers guarantee that foam insulation for loggias and balconies will not lose their thermal insulation parameters and shape for 50 years;
• reduces noise by only 5-10 dB;
• the cheapest insulation compared to analogues.

Advice! If you want to choose the best loggia or balcony insulation in terms of price and quality, foam is the best choice.

This is the most attractive insulation for loggias and balconies in terms of thermal insulation characteristics.

Manufactured by extruding polystyrene foam. This technology makes it possible to obtain a material of a homogeneous structure, consisting of closed small cells, having a size of about 0.2-0.1 mm. Thanks to this structure, penoplex stands out for a number of advantages among other heaters:

• there is practically no water absorption and vapor permeability;
• excellent parameters of thermal insulation;
• has increased frost resistance;
• for 50 years does not lose its shape and thermal insulation characteristics even when operating in conditions of increased dampness;
• due to the unique parameters of hygroscopicity, it can be laid as a heater inside and outside balconies or loggias without a waterproofing liner.

Characteristics of penoplex

The unique structure of the penoplex provides excellent parameters:

• its thermal conductivity coefficient is about - 0.028 W / (m * K);
• the degree of moisture absorption is approximately 0.4%;
• may ignite at very high temperatures;
• the original structure allows you to save the parameters of thermal insulation for 50 years;
• insulation for balconies and loggias made of penoplex are lightweight, as a result of which surfaces from various materials are easily mounted;
• environmentally friendly material, does not emit any harmful odors;
• has a relatively affordable price.

This is a flat insulation, produced in rolls. It is based on foamed self-extinguishing polyethylene on one or both sides covered with high quality polished aluminum foil. It significantly increases the thermal insulation characteristics of the insulation layer. This insulation works on the principle of heat reflection. Penofol manufacturers offer a wide range of different types. They differ in the thickness of the base material and the number of foil layers. The most popular option is penofol, covered with foil on one side. But if you live in a region with severe winters, then insulation with double-sided foil and a polyethylene foam thickness of at least 5 mm is better for you.

The unique structure of the heat-insulating material allows it to perfectly resist the penetration of moisture, as a result of which, when insulating a balcony or loggia inside, there is no need to lay a layer of waterproofing.

This insulation is produced in rolls, which allows it to be laid in a continuous sheet without joints. Installation in this way significantly increases sound insulation. In addition, polyethylene foam is an environmentally friendly material, it does not emit any substances harmful to health in any condition. Manufacturers guarantee that the material will not lose its thermal insulation parameters for 100 years.

Penofol characteristics

Such heaters for balconies and loggias have the following parameters:

• their thermal conductivity coefficient is in the range - 0.051-0.038 W / (m * K);
• the level of moisture absorption is about 0.35% of the volume;
• the insulation does not burn even at very high temperatures, as a result of which it is a 100% fireproof material;
• it does not lose its shape and thermal insulation parameters for 100 years;
• this insulation is very convenient to lay, for this it is enough to unwind along the insulated surface;
• it provides excellent sound insulation parameters, damping noise up to 35 dB;
• has a relatively low cost.

Scheme of internal thermal insulation

Ways to insulate a balcony inside include the following installation steps.

High-quality insulation of the balcony from the inside can be done by taking several steps in succession:

• Thermal insulation made from the inside will take away their free space. Some thermal insulation materials are recommended to be installed in two layers to obtain greater efficiency. The average apartment has a balcony with an area of ​​​​no more than 6 m 2. Insulation laid 15 cm thick will significantly reduce this space.
• Reinforced concrete and brick easily pass moisture. If the wall is insulated from the outside, then it will be constantly warm and the air saturated with water vapor leaves the room without hindrance. But if the balcony or loggia is insulated from the inside, the fence slab made of reinforced concrete will remain cold. Condensation will settle on its inner surface, causing premature destruction of the structure.
• Insulation of balconies performed from the outside makes it possible to save heating costs up to 30%. It turns out to be more effective and of higher quality than insulation made from the inside.

But working outside creates some difficulties:

• To perform insulation above the second floor, it is necessary to involve specialists - industrial climbers.
• Insulation of a loggia or balcony can spoil the appearance of the facade of the building. As a result, before starting this work, you need to obtain permission from the architecture department.

The technology of external insulation has several advantages:

• The dew point is shifted to the surface of any finishing material. The reinforced concrete slab remains relatively warm at all times, as a result of which moist air from the interior is freely and naturally removed through it into the atmosphere.
• Allows you to save usable space. Outside, you can lay a layer of heat-insulating material of various thicknesses. This will not reduce the space from the inside of the balcony in any way.

Having completed the insulation of the balcony, you can achieve 2 goals at once: expand the living space and improve the degree of thermal insulation of the apartment. It is most correct to produce external insulation, but here you can not do without the services of industrial climbers and the corresponding costs. Warming the balcony from the inside will be much cheaper, especially if you do it yourself.

How to insulate the balcony inside

A positive result of the work performed is the equally comfortable temperature inside the room and the balcony adjacent to it. It makes no sense to invest effort and money in insulation that does not protect against the penetration of cold onto the balcony and forces you to tightly close the doors leading to the loggia in winter.

As a rule, for internal insulation of balconies is used:

• foamed polystyrene with a density of 25-35 kg / m 3, otherwise - foam;
• based on basalt fiber 80-110 kg / m 3 density;
• extruded polystyrene foam (one of its varieties -).

Note! For additional thermal insulation, thin foil insulation made of polyethylene foam - Izolon or Penofol - is often laid on the main layer.

In addition to the above insulators, there is another insulating material - ecowool, made from cellulose waste. In other words, waste paper. The rules for handling it and the installation technology are used the same as with basalt wool. Ecowool is not very popular due to its high cost.

Brief description of heaters

Styrofoam is the cheapest material for insulation, produced in the form of plates of various thicknesses.

Like all foamed polymers, it repels moisture well and has sufficient strength (at the specified density). It is characterized by high resistance to heat transfer and flammability, which requires protection from accidental sparks.

The thickness of the foam for insulation of the balcony in the northern regions should be at least 100 mm, in the southern regions 50 mm may be enough.

Unlike polystyrene, mineral wool does not burn at all, but it is able to absorb moisture, after which its thermal conductivity rises sharply. The problem is solved with the help of protective layers of special films, which will be discussed later.

The heat transfer resistance of mineral wool is not too high, so it makes no sense to use a material with a thickness of less than 80 mm. Insulation is offered in rolls and plates, and at a price it will cost more than polystyrene.

Advice! Do not insulate the balcony with fiberglass-based wool (glass wool) intended for outdoor or roofing work. The use of such materials inside residential premises is unacceptable.

The best option for internal insulation of a balcony is extruded polystyrene foam, sold in slabs.

Expanded polystyrene is durable, lightweight and has the best thermal insulation properties.

Where it is necessary to lay mineral wool 100 mm thick, 50 mm of foam plastic will suffice.

In addition, the polymer is absolutely impervious to moisture and is so strong that the plate can be screwed on with self-tapping screws if necessary. There is only one drawback - the high price of the material, which is offset by the long service life of the material - up to 50 years.

Balcony insulation technology from the inside

To carry out thermal insulation on the balcony, you must carefully prepare. This includes not only the purchase of materials and the preparation of tools, but also the implementation of a number of preliminary works:

1. The device of a reliable parapet. 2 types of structures are practiced: a welded metal frame with fastening to the wall or masonry from foam blocks. How to strengthen the parapet -.
2. . Sometimes the balcony is made panoramic by installing metal-plastic blocks to the full height, without a parapet. Then it remains to insulate only the floors and ceiling.
3. Elimination of all cracks and leaks leading to the street, removal of excess mounting foam.
4. pad electrical wiring for lighting, as well as drainage and lines with freon k (if any).

Before insulating the balcony inside, you need to level all surfaces, removing obvious influxes or filling up cavities and cracks with mortar.

Interior wall decoration

The technology of do-it-yourself balcony wall insulation depends on the design of the parapet and the heat-insulating material used. It is better to sheathe a metal frame, trimmed on the outside with plastic or, with 2 layers of thermal insulation so that the second row of insulation covers all metal racks that are cold bridges. Moreover, from the outside, between the cladding and the insulation, a windproof film should be laid.

When insulating a balcony with mineral wool, it is necessary to use not an ordinary film, but a diffusion membrane as a windscreen. It will let the moisture that occurs in the thickness of the cotton wool out, but will not let it get wet from precipitation or fog on the street. For polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene, the use of a membrane is not necessary; a regular film is also suitable.

To fix the mineral wool, you will need to assemble with your own hands an additional wooden frame made of bars, whose width is equal to the thickness of the insulation. The step between the bars is selected according to the width of the material, the latter is inserted between them by surprise. At the last stage, the heat-insulating layer is covered with a vapor barrier film, after which the frame is sewn up with clapboard or drywall.

ceiling lining

And the balcony ceiling can be insulated in 3 ways:

1. If you plan to do wallpapering at the end, then the method of gluing the slab insulation with a building mixture is suitable. Warming, accompanied by "wet" processes, is carried out only in the warm season at positive temperatures.
2. For a similar finish, you will have to attach wooden bars to the walls and ceiling, and lay the rolled or slab material between them.
3. When insulated with polystyrene foam, the plates can be fixed directly to the walls and ceiling with dowels. After that, the surfaces are leveled with putty and painted, or a crate is placed by fixing the bars to the foam blocks or concrete through the insulation. Lining, plastic, drywall and other finishes of your choice are calmly attached to the crate.

Note! To fasten the battens to the concrete ceiling through the expanded polystyrene, you must use special screws for concrete - frame dowels.

When insulating a balcony with mineral wool, a wooden frame is indispensable. Cotton wool can also be glued, but it is quite difficult. The best option is to insert it between the beams attached to the wall and ceiling, protect it with a vapor barrier and line it with a suitable material.

The gluing method is convenient when working with foam plastic, but after 2 days it must be additionally fixed with dowel umbrellas and a plaster layer applied over the fiberglass mesh.

Video:

Floor insulation

The technology of thermal insulation of balcony floors differs from walls and ceilings, since the “pie” of insulation must bear certain dynamic loads and have a flat surface. Alignment is carried out by laying wooden logs, between which a heater is laid, and a finishing coating is laid on top. The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. Cut a wooden beam into crossbars along the width of the balcony and fix them to the floor with anchors or self-tapping screws and dowels using steel corners.
2. Fasten 3 longitudinal logs to the crossbars on self-tapping screws. In the process, they must be aligned horizontally, starting from the highest point. Using the building level, the beams at the intersection with the crossbars should be raised and plastic or wooden wedges should be placed.
3. Between the crossbars and the log, lay the insulation tightly. In the case of mineral wool, a vapor barrier must be laid on top of it.
4. Lay a floor covering with fastening to the logs.

It is characteristic that the length of the crossbars and the log does not need to be adjusted to the dimensions of the balcony. It would be more correct to make them shorter by 10-20 mm so that the ends do not rest against the walls. Wood has the ability to "breathe" and deform a little; with a tight fit, the floor surface may later arch.

Moreover, walking on such floors will be accompanied by an annoying creak. The resulting gaps near the walls will hide under the floor covering and become invisible.

When using slab insulation, it is worth choosing the step of the crossbars correctly so that you do not have to cut the slabs once again. The standard width is 600 mm, and you need to focus on it. After laying foam or expanded polystyrene, all joints and cracks must be filled with mounting foam.

Useful instructional video:

Mineral wool is protected with a vapor barrier as tightly as possible so that moisture from inside the room cannot seep into it. Here, too, you can use foamed polyethylene such as Penofol, but pay special attention to gluing the joints.

If you seriously and scrupulously approach the procedure for internal insulation of a balcony, then it is not at all necessary to hire craftsmen and pay them money, which is never superfluous. You will spend twice as much time to complete the work, but you will do everything with high quality and in accordance with personal wishes. In addition, save money for the family budget.

September 4, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works (laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communication, high technologies, computer equipment, programming.

I have already talked many times about the internal insulation of balconies in city apartments and private houses, but I did not dwell much on highlighting the question of how best to insulate the loggia from the inside. But the right choice of thermal insulation material is the key to the effectiveness of the events.

And now is the time to fill this gap. The instructions that I give below will tell you how to choose the right material for insulation yourself.

Requirements for heaters

Before telling you how to insulate the loggia inside with my own hands, I want to give a few words to the criteria by which I personally choose thermal insulation materials for such work.

So, what is worth paying attention to:

1. Heat transfer coefficient. The lower this parameter is, the better. That is, for the thermal insulation of the room (whether it be a separate loggia or combined with the main room), you will have to use a smaller layer of material. So, more usable area of ​​​​the room will be saved.
2. Ease of installation. The more complicated the procedure for installing the heat-insulating material you have chosen, the longer and more laborious the repair process will be, especially on your own. However, I have already written a lot about how to properly insulate the loggia from the inside. If you need, you can find the relevant material or ask a question in the comments.
3. Strength. It is better to choose a heater that tolerates external mechanical stress (both static and dynamic). In this case, the subsequent decorative finishing of the room is facilitated.
4. Antiseptic. Internal insulation shifts the dew point inside the heat-insulating cake. In addition, air vapors, which are formed as a result of human activity, can penetrate through the walls. Therefore, I recommend paying attention to materials that are not subject to biocorrosion - mold, fungus and other microorganisms, rodents and insects do not appear in them.
5. Affordable price. Naturally, this factor is also very important, although I would not put it at the forefront. Below I will tell you about insulating materials that have an optimal ratio of cost and performance. And then you yourself choose what material is better to perform insulation.

Characteristics of individual types of insulation

So, let's start the story. Let's start with the most common and very inexpensive heat insulator - polystyrene foam or, as it is popularly called, polystyrene.

Styrofoam

Expanded polystyrene is a material consisting of 98% air, which is enclosed in closed polystyrene shells. It turns out some kind of solid foam in sheets, which, after finishing the walls, floor and ceiling of the loggia, prevents unproductive heat loss.

Specifications

I will briefly describe the main technical characteristics of the material:

1. Thermal conductivity. The thermal conductivity coefficient of expanded polystyrene is in the range of 0.028-0.034 W / (m * K), that is, lower than that of mineral wool. The specific value depends on how dense the foam you get for work.

I'll warn you right now. Do not confuse foam and extruded polystyrene foam. Although they are relatives, their technical characteristics differ significantly. Therefore, we will talk about EPS separately in the next section.

1. Vapor permeability and water absorption. Conventional building foam does not allow air to penetrate through the insulation layer.

Therefore, the insulation of the loggia with foam plastic from the inside requires additional measures to be taken to ventilate the room in order to remove excess moisture from it. Otherwise, the microclimate in the room will be far from comfortable.

The situation is different with water absorption. When in contact with liquid, the foam absorbs approximately 4% of its volume. However, unlike mineral wool, its heat-retaining properties do not deteriorate much from this, therefore it is not necessary to carefully waterproof the insulation layer.

1. Strength. For insulation, building foams are used that meet the requirements of DIN 7726 and are classified as "rigid". That is, when a load is applied, the surface of the heat insulator reacts elastically. However, when a dynamic or strong static force is applied, the integrity of the insulation may be compromised.

In other words, if you use polystyrene foam for the internal insulation of the loggia, you immediately need to decide how to finish the inside after insulation. You need to choose a method of decorative finishing that would simultaneously protect the insulation layer from mechanical damage.

The strength of the foam is largely dependent on its density. But with an increase in density, heat-preserving properties deteriorate. The optimal density of foam for internal insulation is 25. You can also buy 35, but this, in my opinion, is already an unjustified waste of money.

1. Chemical resistance. Classically, expanded polystyrene perfectly tolerates the effects of household chemicals, which include soap, soda, and mineral fertilizers. It is chemically neutral in contact with bituminous resins, cement and lime mortars, asphalts.

However, I myself saw how the foam “melts” when some varnishes, drying oils and other similar substances get on it. In addition, petroleum products with various alcohols are also dangerous.

All this once again suggests that if you are going to use this insulation for interior work, you should take care of its thorough protection.

1. Sound absorption. If you want the insulation layer to act as a sound insulator at the same time, then you will be disappointed with the foam. It is able to protect a little only from impact noise, and even then, if you lay 10-15 centimeters of insulation.

Other noises that are transmitted through the air, the foam does not jam. The fact is that the cells with air inside the material are rigidly fixed and completely isolated from the outside world. Therefore, sound waves do not absorb.

1. Antiseptic and environmentally friendly. In 2004, research by scientists from the United States finally proved that biological life on the surface of expanded polystyrene is impossible. Therefore, there is no need to be afraid of the appearance of mold and fungus.

As for the issues of environmental protection (for some, this is very important), everything is also fine here, since the use of freon, which is harmful to the ozone layer of the planet, was abandoned in the production of insulation. In addition, the foam itself serves for a long time without losing its performance properties. And regardless of the number of cycles of freezing and thawing.

However, the insulation in question is subject to oxidation. Moreover, the lower the density of the material, the faster this process. Especially if the material is exposed to direct sunlight. And during oxidation, it releases many harmful substances, which include:

• benzene;
• toluene;
• formaldehydes;
• methyl alcohol;
• acetophenone and so on.

But during the construction of houses, wood is also treated with various chemicals, which also harm human health. So wood cannot be considered a completely environmentally friendly building material. However, I am only stating the facts, and you will have to make the final choice.

1. Fire safety. According to the current Russian standards (GOST under the number 30224-94), foam plastics belong to the third and fourth flammability classes. In other words, they are very dangerous when viewed from this point of view.

When choosing a heater, pay attention to what standards the expanded polystyrene is certified. In Europe, the flammability class is determined by three factors (biological, chemical and complex). So, experts from the EU believe that the most combustible material is wood, but do not take into account the danger of combustion products formed during the ignition of the foam.

Therefore, when purchasing material, pay attention to certificates issued based on the results of comprehensive studies. And buy polystyrene foam, which contains flame retardants (it is marked with the letter “C”). This does not mean that such material will burn worse. It just takes a longer exposure to a more intense flame to ignite it.

In any case, I can say that despite various fire retardants and other additives to the foam, it continues to be a rather combustible material. Therefore, if you are going to arrange a workshop on the loggia, it is better to choose other materials for insulation. Moreover, flame retardants disappear over time.

1. Lifetime. Subject to the foam installation technology (that is, laying it under plaster or other decorative material), it will retain its performance properties for at least 30 years. However, this is if you do not make mistakes, which I want to talk about below.

First of all, this is the wrong choice of a warming elk. Some, for example, believe that if you lay a foam board 30 cm thick, then the loggia will be insulated as efficiently as possible. This is not so, because a thick insulation will warp and crack due to temperature fluctuations.

As a rule, 5 cm thick slabs or two such slabs stacked on top of each other are used to insulate a dwelling. Among other things, this method of installation allows you to reduce the amount of smoke emitted during a fire and reduce the risk of poisoning people in the room.

Well, now I kind of summarize everything that has been said and give some advice to those who have already decided to buy polystyrene foam to insulate their loggia:

1. For internal insulation, I advise you to purchase polystyrene foam with the PSB-S marking with a density of 35-40. In any case, do not take insulation with a density of less than 25. It is only suitable for packaging household appliances, but not for construction.
2. Sometimes manufacturers label the foam with the number "40", which does not indicate its density. Therefore, pay attention not only to the numbers in the name, but also to the technical characteristics, which, according to the law, must be placed on the package or provided separately at the request of the buyer.
3. Buy foam produced by extrusion (should be listed in the accompanying documentation). This is the only way to give the material a density higher than 20 kg per cubic meter.
4. To check the quality of the material on the spot, break off a piece from it. If you see balls at the break point, which are also easily separated, then you have packaging material in front of you. Styrofoam for insulation has cells in the form of polyhedrons, along which a fracture occurs.
5. If we talk about specific manufacturers, then I recommend paying attention to the materials of TechnoNikol, BASF, Styrochem or Polimeri Europa. These materials are of excellent quality and are quite affordable.

Penoplex

I recently used extruded polystyrene foam to insulate a balcony. And he chose the material of a domestic manufacturer for work - foam plastic. That's why I'm going to talk about it in this section.

Specifications

The first extruded polystyrene foam was produced in the United States of America about half a century ago. The essence of the technological process is as follows: expanded polystyrene granules are placed in a chamber where they are melted under high temperature. Then this mass is foamed with the help of chemicals and squeezed out through rectangular nozzles onto the conveyor, where it cools.

For foaming, so-called foams are used, that is, substances that, when heated, emit gases: nitrogen or carbon dioxide.

After hardening, the extruded polystyrene tape is cut into slabs and packed in polyethylene for transportation to construction sites.

As for penoplex, it consists of the following components:

• polystyrene;
• ground perlite;
• sodium bicarbonate;
• lemon acid;
• barium stearate;
• tetrabromoparaxylene.

The use of foams in the production of foam gives the latter a porous structure, like foam. But unlike the latter, the cells of this material are tightly interconnected into a homogeneous structure, so the air is more evenly distributed inside the material.

The size of the air cells in the insulation is from 0.1 to 0.3 mm. They are isolated from each other, so they have good thermal resistance and low water absorption. In addition, this whole structure has greater strength than classic expanded polystyrene (styrofoam).

The exact technical characteristics of the penoplex are shown in the illustration below:

As you can see, there are several varieties of this extruded polystyrene foam on the building materials market, which differ in the characteristics and dimensions of the plates. Accordingly, they must be used for insulation of various structures.

If you are not too versed in the above figures, I will decipher some of the parameters:

1. Coefficient of thermal conductivity. For penoplex, this figure is approximately 0.03 W / (m * K). This is one of the lowest coefficients of all existing heaters. At the same time, what attracts me personally: this indicator does not change depending on humidity and temperature. That is, when using penoplex, it is not necessary to protect it with additional waterproofing membranes.
2. Hygroscopicity. When in contact with water or moist air, the foam board absorbs no more than 0.6% of its own volume. In this case, humidification continues only during the first 10 days after installation, and then stops. Only the upper layers of the insulation are impregnated, which positively affects the integrity of the material.
3. Vapor permeability. The material does not pass moisture vapor dissolved in the air through itself. Therefore, the surfaces finished with foam are not covered with vapor barrier films. On the other hand, you will have to take measures to ventilate the room to remove excess water vapor.
4. Compressive strength. This parameter is at a height, which is achieved due to the homogeneous structure of the penoplex. Therefore, it can be used to insulate floors on the loggia (laying the insulation under the cement screed). If a significant force is applied to the insulation, a dent with a depth of no more than 1 mm may form on the surface.
5. Environmental friendliness. Although the manufacturer claims that the material is completely safe for the environment and humans, during operation it releases a small amount of chemical compounds that can be hazardous to health.
6. Lifetime. Experiments carried out at the Penoplex plant show that the material is able to withstand more than 50 consecutive freeze and thaw cycles. Therefore, when used outdoors, it will retain its technical characteristics for at least half a century. And inside the loggia and even more.

To all of the above, I can also add that penoplex tolerates the effects of aggressive chemicals and solvents well. However, it is destroyed upon contact with petroleum products, benzene, formaldehyde, acetone, oil and some other materials. This must be taken into account when choosing a method of decorative finishing.

Marking methods

There are several types of extruded polystyrene foam Penoplex on sale. To make it easier for you to choose the right variety, I will give the following table.

Marking	Scope of application
Penoplex 31	Used for insulation of industrial tanks with various liquids and technical pipelines.
Penoplex 31C	A material that, like the previous one, is not very durable, therefore it can only be used for internal insulation. Unlike the previous one, it has the ability to self-extinguish when ignited.
Penoplex 35	Material of medium strength and density, which is ideal for internal insulation of the loggia. Moreover, it can be installed not only on walls and ceilings, but also on the floor under a cement screed.
Penoplex 45	Very durable and moisture resistant insulation. It is used for external thermal insulation of surfaces that experience a large static and dynamic load. On the loggia, it can be used to warm the floor.
Penoplex 45C	Self-extinguishing type of insulation described in the previous row of the table. It is mainly used for thermal insulation of industrial and commercial facilities.

However, in addition to digital marking, penoplex has its own names. I will give a detailed description of each brand in the following table.

Name	Density, kg/cu.m.	Purpose
Wall	25-32	It is used for internal and external insulation of enclosing walls, internal partitions and basement floors above ground level.
Foundation	29-33	It is used for thermal insulation of structures buried in the ground. This type of foam is very durable and able to withstand the load exerted by the soil after backfilling the pit.
Roof	28-33	It is used for insulation of attic rooms. The insulation has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, but is fragile, so it is better not to use it in places where it will be subjected to a constant load.
Comfort	25-35	Material ideal for internal insulation of balconies, loggias and other premises. It differs in that it can be used in rooms with high humidity.

If you ask my opinion, then I would advise using Penoplex Comfort slabs 5 cm thick to insulate the loggia, laying them in one layer under the screed or in a pre-arranged crate.

Basalt wool

Another fairly common insulation for loggias and balconies is mineral wool. There are several varieties of this material, but I prefer the variety that is made from a volcanic mineral - basalt. Basalt wool is the most environmentally friendly material with excellent technical characteristics and performance properties.

This insulation was invented in Hawaii, when local residents, after one of the volcanic eruptions, discovered strong and thin fibers in the vicinity.

Now basalt wool is produced industrially. To do this, gabbro-basalt is collected and melted in a melting furnace at a temperature of just over 1500 degrees Celsius. Then the mixture enters the drum, where it is blown by a jet of air and rotates. The result is fibers with a thickness of 7 microns and a length of about 5 cm.

After that, a binder is added to the mass of fibers, after which the mixture is heated to 300 degrees Celsius and pressed into mats, which are used for insulation.

Specifications

I will tell you the most important thing about this heater:

1. Thermal conductivity. According to this indicator, wool, although it does not overtake penoplex, is not an outsider. The thermal conductivity coefficient is from 0.032 to 0.048 W/(K*m).

In order for you to understand what is at stake, I will compare, for example, a 10-cm layer of basalt wool with a density of 100 kg per cubic meter with other building materials. To ensure the same level of thermal insulation, it is necessary to build a wall of ceramic bricks with a thickness of 1 m 20 cm. Silicate brick will need even more - 2 meters. As for the wooden wall, its thickness should be at least 25 cm.

1. Water absorption. Basalt wool has hydrophobic properties. That is, water does not penetrate inside the fibers and does not linger in the insulation, changing its technical characteristics.

This, by the way, is the fundamental difference between basalt fiber and glass wool or slag wool. The last two varieties after getting wet (from contact with water or moisture vapor) increase their thermal conductivity, that is, they retain heat indoors worse.

So if you are going to insulate the loggia from the inside, you need to take exactly basalt wool, and not from glass fibers. Do not confuse. Its water absorption is no more than 2% of its own volume.

1. Vapor permeability. The described insulation, unlike the previous ones, does not prevent air infiltration through the building envelope. Moisture, penetrating through the decorative material, is removed outside and does not condense in the insulation layer.

The vapor permeability of the material is about 0.3 mg / (m * h * Pa). That is, on the loggia where you use such a heater, a comfortable microclimate for living will independently form, if you look at it from the point of view of air humidity.

1. Fire safety. Due to the fact that basalt, being a volcanic rock, has a very high melting point, the heat-insulating material itself belongs to the class of completely non-combustible materials.

Moreover, it is able to stop the further spread of the flame. The thermal insulation layer loses its integrity at a temperature of at least 1100 degrees Celsius. Therefore, by the way, it is used for insulation of engineering systems and pipelines, the surface of which is very hot during operation.

The material fully complies with the requirements of GOST under the number 30244 and SNiP under the number 21-01-97. It has no restrictions when warming residential premises.

1. Soundproof properties. Unlike expanded polystyrenes, basalt wool perfectly absorbs sound waves. This is due to the fact that the air contained inside the insulation is not closed inside the cells, and the fibers themselves are arranged randomly.

Moreover, cotton wool not only cuts off noise from the street, but also reduces the reverberation time. That is, not only the loggia itself is soundproofed, but also the rooms located behind it.

1. Strength. As in all other cases, this parameter depends on the density of the basalt wool. Although it is smaller than that of polystyrenes, it is still sufficient for construction work, since some basalt fibers are arranged vertically when forming mats.

As a result, when the insulation layer is deformed by 10%, it shows a compressive strength of 5 to 80 kilopascals. And this indicator does not decrease depending on the operating time.

Nevertheless, it is impossible to install basalt mats under the floor screed. For insulation, I recommend equipping the crate, on which decorative material is then mounted. Although there are some varieties (for example, Dan Floor from Danova), which are specifically designed for insulating floors under a cement screed.

1. Biological and chemical activity. The material does not react with chemicals and does not cause corrosion of metal parts. In addition, mold and fungus do not start inside the insulation layer and on its surface, insects and rodents do not live.

So you can insulate the loggia in the country. Unlike foam, which mice love to chew on.

1. Environmental Safety. The insulation is completely safe for the environment and humans, as it is made from a natural mineral. However, the fibers are glued together with phenol, which can be hazardous to health.

But I hasten to assure the skeptics. All hazardous substances are neutralized when heated at the stage of production of basalt wool. But even at the stage of manufacturing the material, the emission is no more than 0.05 mg per cubic meter per hour.

In addition, during operation, mineral fibers do not irritate the skin, mucous membranes and respiratory organs of a person.

Material disadvantages

So that you do not get the impression that basalt wool is just a gift of fate for warming the loggia, I will list the main disadvantages of the material:

• high cost of insulation;
• the presence of seams in the insulation layer, which make it leaky;
• the possibility of the formation of basalt dust, which causes inconvenience to installers in the process of working with it;
• high coefficient of vapor permeability, which in some cases is simply not needed.

Summary

Now you have all the necessary information to choose the right insulation for the thermal insulation of the loggia. Those who are interested in how to lay the selected insulation with their own hands can watch the video in this article.

Welcome site visitors!

Today's post will benefit people who are going to insulate the balcony from the inside.

My relatives decided to increase the area of ​​​​the living room due to the adjoining balcony. So, as the apartment has two balconies, so such a decision has long been suggested.

There was no project, I had to figure out all aspects of the work myself. And now I am publishing comprehensive instructions for warming the balcony. The information provided in the article will serve you well when you decide to do the same.

How to quickly and correctly insulate a balcony?

How to insulate a balcony?

The vast majority of owners of apartments with balconies sooner or later think about how to use this area more functionally by insulating it.

Typically, such premises are used for one of the following purposes:

• in the first case, many years of rubbish accumulates on them, everything unnecessary is thrown off. An outward-facing pantry is formed. It was this role that was assigned to balconies and loggias in most Soviet apartments;
• the second case is when the owners of the apartment try to expand the often too cramped living space at the expense of the balcony, turning it into a room, an office, a winter garden.

But for the second solution, you need reliable insulation. According to experts, in apartments located in old houses, significant heat losses occur through balconies if they are not insulated.

Therefore, you don’t even need to ask yourself the question: “Should the balcony be insulated?”. Of course, this is necessary, even if a full-fledged heated room is not supposed to be arranged from it.

So how to insulate the balcony with your own hands and what nuances should be taken into account (floor insulation, room insulation from the inside, etc.)?

First steps

First of all, you need to complete the glazing of the balcony or loggia, otherwise the meaning of warming is simply lost. With glazing, even a balcony open on all sides becomes more like a loggia.

Recently, people have increasingly begun to use wooden frames, but metal-plastic structures are also very popular. Wooden glazing can be no worse than using PVC structures, if the material is treated with the necessary materials - antiseptic compounds, several layers of paint, etc.

Deviating from the topic: we hope that no one needs to talk about the differences between a loggia and a balcony.

But just in case, we briefly note: the balcony is a platform protruding beyond the facade, fenced around the entire perimeter; the loggia does not protrude beyond the plane of the facade, it is built into the wall and is surrounded by walls on the sides.

The insulation technology is almost the same in both cases.

Of course, the owner of the balcony would like to quickly complete all the work and move on to other urgent tasks. So the work gets done quickly. The cracks are patched carelessly. And immediately installed heating devices (heating radiator or underfloor heating system). After that, the owner believes that he can relax, he is reliably protected from the cold.

But in winter, all the shortcomings and haste will certainly translate into very unpleasant discoveries. Even on an insulated balcony, it turns out to be a difficult task to maintain a comfortable temperature. The reason for this is that hastily performed insulation does not provide a sufficient reduction in heat loss.

When deciding to heat a balcony, it must be taken into account that the use of a central system for this is not allowed according to building codes. Therefore, it is necessary to qualitatively insulate all surfaces - walls, floor, side and front side.

An example of warming a loggia with accession to a room, see the video:

You will have to solve a number of problems:

• seal cracks and seams with mounting foam and special sealants. If this is not done or done carelessly, there is simply no point in insulating the balcony further;
• install waterproofing, which will avoid the formation of mold, the development of pathogens that prefer to appear and grow in wet places. Waterproofing will be the first layer of the whole “pie” that we use to securely protect the balcony. Among other things, the waterproofing layer will allow you to move the freezing point to the outside;
• installation of thermal insulation. In this case, it is necessary to install a heat-insulating layer, as in the previous case, on all concrete elements. This will eliminate the risk of cold bridges and allow you to maintain the optimum temperature in the room;
• followed by another waterproofing layer, with the help of which an additional heat-insulating layer is also provided;
• cladding frame installation;
• decoration of a balcony or loggia from the outside.

How to insulate a loggia?

We have already found out that any insulation of a loggia or balcony begins with proper glazing. Also, work is needed on the surfaces of the floor, walls, etc.

Now you need to choose materials for insulation.

There are a huge number of materials on the market to achieve this goal, and it is time for an inexperienced person to get confused in such a variety. But some materials are preferable to analogues, so we will consider their properties in more detail.

The final result depends very much on how correctly the choice of raw materials for the hydro and thermal insulation of the balcony was made.

We will start from two factors. The first is the effectiveness of a particular material at a certain thickness. The second is the economic feasibility of acquiring just such material.

Note that, despite the similar parameters of loggias and balconies, in the first case, it is easier to perform reliable insulation than to create conditions close to living conditions on the balcony. This is not surprising, because in the case of a balcony, a large area will have to be glazed, and heat loss through the windows is the most significant.

First, consider materials for sealing gaps and seams on all structures and surfaces (frame, parapet, ceilings, etc.).

Gap filling materials

In principle, you can choose almost any composition intended for sealing.

Usually they rely on sealants, foams and mastics from polyurethane, basing the choice on the fluidity of materials until the moment of curing.

You can choose other similar materials. To prevent the sealant from leaking out during use, large gaps are sealed with foam or other improvised materials.

Balcony / loggia waterproofing

In the process of waterproofing a balcony, it is necessary not only to process the internal surfaces. It is also required to mount a drain, due to which water access under the frame is excluded, process the frame itself (if it is a wooden structure). All kinds of hydrophobic compounds are used for the frame - varnishes, oil paints, enamels, antiseptics, etc.

In other details, the balcony and loggia are insulated from the inside using a single technology.

For waterproofing concrete floors and parapets, both penofol and more traditional roofing material can be used. You can resort to the use of penetrating and coating compositions.

Flooring materials (roofing material) must be overlapped, providing high-quality sealing of seams, for which we can recommend the use of a burner. The torch will provide reliable gluing of roofing material to a surface of overlapping.

Begins to gain popularity and other material. This foil isol, which has a thickness of only 4 mm. It is a good sealant and also provides additional thermal insulation.

The choice of materials is carried out taking into account the characteristics of the work and the budget. Most often, roofing material is used for self-insulation. It has been tested by generations and is very affordable.

So how to insulate a balcony or loggia?

Now we turn to the choice of the insulation itself. In this case, it is necessary to build on the most important characteristic of such a material - this is the coefficient of thermal conductivity (delta). For thermal insulation compounds, this indicator usually ranges from 0.02 W / mS, the average value is 0.03-0.04 W / mS. The higher the value, the lower the insulating properties.

That is, you can go in two directions:

• the choice of insulation with a minimum value of the coefficient of thermal conductivity;
• increase the thickness of the thermal insulation layer.

In the first case, you will have to spend more on the material. With an increase in the thermal insulation layer, the useful area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room will decrease.

T how to insulate a balcony, what materials are optimal for this?

Today, extruded polystyrene foam used for thermal insulation has become very common.

This material has excellent performance characteristics. Among the popular materials of this type are Penoplex, Technoplex.

You can resort to another method. Buy mineral wool, remembering that when using it, the layer of insulation will be thicker to provide the same result as when using polystyrene foam. And to do everything quickly and inexpensively, you can use ordinary foam sheets - this material is also often used for self-insulation of a loggia or balcony.

As an example, let's talk about extruded polystyrene foam. URSA XPS. This is a practical, high-quality insulation, very beneficial for warming the loggia. URSA XPS combines high thermal insulation performance and reduced heat loss.

URSA XPS can be used to finish floor and wall surfaces.

Another characteristic of URSA XPS is its small thickness, only 5 cm.. So, if you are still wondering what material to choose for the internal insulation of a balcony, pay attention to URSA XPS. It might just be the solution you've been looking for. It is convenient to transport it, the material does not crumble, and you can cut it with a regular knife.

For the convenience of considering and comparing different solutions, we will compile a list with a description of thermal insulation materials that can be used for our purposes.

About the nuances of warming the balcony and loggia in the video:

https://youtu.be/c6JY3f0yKvk

So, how can you insulate a balcony or loggia?

The modern building materials market provides us with a lot of options:

• mineral wool materials(basalt fiber). The fibrous structure provides a high efficiency of such a solution. The advantages of mineral wool: stability of shape and volume during operation, bio- and fire resistance, resistance to destruction under the influence of an aggressive environment, good sound and heat insulation characteristics;
• materials based on PPS(polystyrene foam). Extruded material has the highest performance. Expanded polystyrene is very light, while it has a minimum coefficient of thermal conductivity. Other advantages of PPS: ease of installation, cost-effectiveness. Among the disadvantages - during the heating process, harmful substances can be released into the environment;
• materials based on fiberglass. This very common option is rightfully considered traditional. Fiberglass is quite a budget solution, but its disadvantage is the high value of the thermal conductivity coefficient (as it was found higher, the higher this indicator, the worse) compared to other heaters. Materials are produced in mats and slabs, which can be conveniently used in the internal insulation of a balcony;
• reflective heat insulators. This is an innovative solution for the insulation of various structures. Reflective thermal insulation works on the principle of a thermos. The impermeable foil sheath in them is laid on foam polyethylene. Such heaters are distinguished by a minimum coefficient of thermal conductivity and a sufficiently thin layer of such material for reliable insulation. Due to this, the space occupied by thermal insulation is significantly reduced.

How to fix materials

When using flooring waterproofing materials, they are glued to special compounds or (like roofing felt) they are fastened with heating of the connected parts with a burner from the fastening side.

The choice of method for fixing thermal insulation depends on the material used.

Styrofoam or polystyrene boards can be glued or mounted on plastic dowels. If glue is used, it is very important to choose the right composition, excluding toluene, which is contraindicated for use with such heaters.

Glue is applied to the mounting pad, a thin layer over the entire area. It is convenient to use a notched trowel for application. Additionally, it is possible to apply glue dropwise on the heat-insulating boards in several places.

When using dowels, they are installed along the perimeter of the slab at the rate of 8-10 points per square meter. For perfectionists, we can recommend using both fasteners at the same time: additionally fix the initially glued plates on plastic dowels.

To seal the seams between the insulation boards, a mounting foam that does not contain toluene is used. The seams between the elements of the waterproofing layer are closed with a special self-adhesive sealant.

Mineral wool in most cases is attached only to dowels. Vapor barrier (inner waterproofing layer) is installed together with heaters on dowels or glued directly onto thermal insulation materials.

Finishing

After installing the heat and waterproofing layers, proceed to the exterior finish. To do this, it is necessary to install frames from the profile used for the installation of drywall sheets. Also, the frame can be mounted from wooden bars.

The same actions are performed when finishing walls, ceilings, parapets. But in this case, thinner materials are also suitable for the frame. 25-30 mm boards or drywall profile can be used.

After installing the frame, it must be sheathed with plasterboard sheets or clapboard.

When using lining, the balcony in appearance and comfort resembles the veranda of a country house, GKL allow you to embody any creative ideas on such a surface. Self-plating a loggia or balcony with drywall allows you to then glue wallpaper on it, paint, draw, etc.

Another, quite convenient and affordable option for interior decoration of the balcony is plastic panels. Manufacturers offer the widest range of such products, with different colors and textures of the material. You can embody any design, depending on your taste and the style of the interior of the next room.

Action algorithm

Step-by-step warming of a balcony or loggia is carried out as follows:

• glazing is in progress, without which any insulation loses all meaning;
• floor insulation. At this stage, holes and slots are blown out with mounting foam, after which waterproofing is applied to the surface of the lower part of the wall and slab;
• floor leveling. To do this, you can use self-leveling building mixtures;
• laying URSA XPS boards. To seal the joints formed between the insulation plates and the walls, vapor barrier tape is used. If the joints are not sealed, during the operation of the room, moisture will collect on the walls, and this is a direct path to the development of mold and fungus;
• laying polymer concrete with a layer thickness of approx. 4 cm on which you want to install a wire reinforcing mesh;
• wall and ceiling insulation. These procedures are easier to perform than floor insulation. It is enough just to lay the URSA XPS boards and cover them with sheets of moisture-resistant drywall. It is allowed to use suspended ceilings, in which wiring can be reliably hidden from the eyes. This ensures the lighting of the balcony;
• vapor barrier- a moment that should not be forgotten. To implement it, you can install a special vapor barrier in front of the heater. Another option - the vapor barrier is not used, but the insulation is installed with a thickness at which moisture is not formed.

Having decided to insulate the balcony with your own hands and perform all the above types of work, you will not only make the room warm and minimize heat loss from the apartment, but also protect your home from outside noise.

Pay attention to the soundproofing characteristics of your chosen double-glazed window.

An example of complex insulation of a balcony, see the video:

https://youtu.be/YKO00flP1tA

Foam insulation

So, you have already decided all the questions regarding the glazing of your balcony or loggia. Now it remains to insulate all surfaces (ceiling, floor, walls) with foam. It is advisable to use EPS.

Why is this option so popular?

It is EPPS that is the optimal solution to the problem of insulating a balcony with your own hands at an affordable price. Let's get started!

Note that the following instructions are recommended for internal insulation of the balcony. It is undesirable to do external thermal insulation with your own hands. For obvious reasons, such work should be entrusted to industrial climbers with the necessary experience and equipment.

First of all, you need to prepare the work surfaces. Joints, cracks, holes are blown with mounting foam. It is important to choose a material that does not contain toluene. Irregularities are leveled with cement mortar. After that, a 50-60 mm foam sheet is attached to the surface with dowels.

To seal the joints formed between the plates, mounting foam is used.

This is how the walls and ceiling of the loggia or balcony are insulated with their own hands using foam. Next, you need to install the finish or leave the surface for wallpapering, painting, etc.

It is very important to use paint without an organic solvent on the balcony - such substances can destroy the PPS.

Work on the floor is carried out in exactly the same way, with the exception of one moment. You need to apply a screed to the foam and then, if desired, equip the underfloor heating system and finish the surface to your liking.

A few words about the warm field on the balcony (loggia)

Now let's talk about the underfloor heating system on the balcony. No matter what quality materials you use to insulate such premises, the most comfortable conditions, even in the coldest season, can only be created with the use of a heating system.

Compared to any other solutions, electric underfloor heating is the most cost-effective solution for this. The following is a brief description of the technology for making such a floor with your own hands.

So, on the floor slab of a balcony or loggia, we only have a screed, and now we need to warm this surface well. For thermal insulation, we recommend choosing a convenient and reliable extruded polystyrene foam, the properties of which have already been described above.

The thickness of the XPS board must be at least 10 cm. The plates are glued to the floor surface with glue, the joints between the individual elements are sealed with mounting foam. Now is the time to start laying the electrical cable for the underfloor heating system. The cable is bent by hand in a shape that will cover the maximum area.

After laying the cable, a 4-5 cm screed is installed. The solution for it is prepared from cement grade m-400 and sand in a ratio of 1: 3. Tiles are laid on the screed - that's all, our “pie” is finished and a warm floor is installed on the balcony!

Finally

You can take a fresh look at your usual balcony or loggia! To implement all of the above, it will take much less effort than you might think. But the results will definitely please you: the apartment will be supplemented with a full-fledged, even habitable room, where you can comfortably sit down with a cup of coffee even in the most severe cold.

Balcony insulation step by step

Decided to insulate the loggia and do not know where to start? How to choose the best materials, how to do all the necessary work correctly? Our experts provide answers to these and other questions.

How to make a balcony warm?

First of all, you need to take care of reliable glazing of a balcony or loggia with metal-plastic profiles with double-glazed windows. Thickness of double-glazed windows - from 32 mm.

When ordering glazing from a specialized company, consider the need to install additional expansion profiles that are installed on the main structure from above and on the sides. These elements are necessary for further work on the insulation and finishing of the balcony.

After glazing, the loggia will already acquire a more presentable appearance, it will become more comfortable. But she is still far from a warm room. In cold weather, the temperature in such a room is usually a couple of degrees higher than the outside, which is not at all enough.

If you want to turn the loggia into a real living room with a comfortable microclimate, you will need to carry out a series of works on its insulation. Among these works - insulation of walls, floors, ceilings and parapets.

Preliminary work

In addition to glazing, you need to perform a number of preparatory work before directly insulating the balcony.

Such works include the laying of a parapet, if necessary (if the existing parapet does not coincide with the upper floors in the vertical level, or if it is a metal “leaky” structure). The side walls are built from lightweight bricks or foam blocks. If it is required to perform these works, they are carried out even before the installation of double-glazed windows.

What materials are preferred?

For high-quality thermal insulation of the balcony, it is recommended to use modern heaters - rolled or extruded.

Such materials include PPE, Penoplex, Penofol, Izolon etc. All of them are distinguished by excellent heat-saving characteristics with a small thickness.

This combination of characteristics makes such solutions indispensable for warming small areas, where every centimeter of space is very important.

So what is better - polystyrene or Penoplex?

As a heater for a loggia, one and the other material can be used. The difference between them lies in the installation technology and properties. Styrofoam has a high vapor permeability, which is not the best quality for our tasks.

The thickness of the layer is also different, Penoplex in this parameter is also a more profitable material, since it saves more space.

Compared to foam plastic, foam plastic retains useful heat-saving characteristics twice as long.

We must not forget about fire safety. Styrofoam is a combustible material, and in the process of burning it also releases substances hazardous to health. Penoplex is a self-extinguishing material.

Only one point in which Penoplex loses in this comparison is the higher price compared to foam.

How to finish the walls insulated with Penoplex?

Finishing on penoplex can be done with VGKL, GKL, Knauf aquapanels. And all these materials on top can be finished at your own discretion - wallpapering, painting, puttying, etc.

How to ensure not only reliable insulation, but also soundproofing of the balcony?

For high-quality sound insulation, you can use a special material brand ISOVER

For high-quality sound insulation, you can use a special material brand ISOVER. This material has both heat and sound insulating properties. If thermal insulation is more important than noise protection, it is recommended to choose ISOVER Extra material. If it is more important to provide acoustic comfort in the room, it is better to choose "ISOVER SoundProtection".

The technology of insulation and decoration of the balcony in the video:

https://youtu.be/J6L5tZS6gN8

Is it possible to perform double-sided insulation of the loggia?

Loggia parapets can be insulated not only from the inside, but also from the outside. But this solution is not always advisable, since it is difficult to carry out such work outside at a high altitude. It is recommended to resort to insulation on both sides, if necessary, at the same time achieve a certain thickness of thermal insulation and save maximum usable space inside.

The effectiveness of thermal insulation does not depend on whether the insulation is installed only inside or on both sides, whether it is interrupted in thickness or not.

With double-sided insulation, additional vapor barrier is needed inside.

Double-sided insulation is necessary in order to preserve the space of the loggia as much as possible. So, a concrete partition 5 cm thick and external insulation with 10 cm foam. What is the best way to insulate?

For good thermal insulation, stone wool in slabs (“Light Butts”) can be used. Their thickness is 5 cm, the installation takes place in a frame mounted on the parapet. Further, everything is closed with a vapor barrier and sheathed.

How to insulate the floor on the loggia?

A common way is to arrange the floor along the lags.

First you need to install a waterproofing layer.

Excellent results are obtained by insulation with a special material "ISOVER Classic". After completing this work, you can perform finishing.

Will a heating system be needed on an insulated loggia?

Unfortunately, even with very good thermal insulation of the loggia, heat simply will not come from anywhere in the absence of an appropriate source. Insulation allows you to save heat, but heaters cannot generate it.

According to building codes, central heating on balconies and loggias is strictly prohibited, so alternative heat sources will have to be considered.

Is it necessary to install thermal insulation under the condition of installing a floor heating system?

If you install underfloor heating, thermal insulation must be used without fail. This will ensure that heat loss is kept to a minimum. Exceptions are cases in which heating mats are used.

Is it possible to install a warm floor system on the walls of a loggia?

It is permissible to use heating mats on the walls. To do this, they are attached to the surface so that the corners of the heating cable do not form kinks (that is, the cable cannot be bent at a right angle).

The tile mixture is applied in a uniform layer without voids, otherwise overheating may occur.

Is it possible to insulate part of the loggia?

Insulation of only part of the loggia can be used if the norms of thermal insulation are observed. For this case, it is recommended to use expanded polystyrene up to 50 mm thick. It is imperative to insulate not only the floor, but also the walls and ceiling. It is clear that double-glazed windows are also required.

Where does condensation form on the insulated loggia?

If you notice this negative phenomenon, most likely there is an unheated room under your loggia. Another option is insufficient thermal insulation of the outer walls.

Experts distinguish the concept of dew point - this is the temperature of air cooling at which water vapor is boundary saturated. That is, at this temperature, the relative humidity of the gas reaches 100%.

Condensation is caused by air cooling or the influx of water vapor.

Let's explain with a practical example. If something is brought into the room from the cold, the air above it can cool to a temperature below the dew point under conditions of a certain humidity and air temperature.

In this case, condensation forms on the surface.

For typical rooms, you can roughly calculate the dew point as follows.

If the temperature of the underfloor heating on the screed is 30 degrees and the relative humidity is 60%, the dew point will be 21.4 degrees. That is, when the underfloor heating is turned off, condensate will appear when the cement is cooled to this value.

To solve the problem, you can use one of two options:

• reduce air humidity, for which air dryers, electric convectors and similar equipment are used;
• keep the screed temperature above the dew point.

If the loggia floor is not insulated, will the tiles crack on it?

If you have chosen a frost-resistant tile designed for outdoor use, then such a nuisance will not happen. It is also necessary to use a special frost-resistant glue.

But another problem may arise. If there is a non-insulated loggia below, and at the same time you have good glazing installed, then condensation may appear on the floor when heat escapes into the door open into the room. In cold weather, it can even freeze.

The algorithm for warming and finishing the loggia in the video:

Insulation of the balcony and loggia from the inside of the room

In our country, you can observe a real boom in the insulation of balconies and loggias. This is due to the desire of people to increase the living space of cramped apartments at the expense of these premises. After all, balconies and loggias can be quite functional, instead of playing the role of cluttered outdoor pantries.

The role of the loggia can be any, it all depends on your needs and imagination, you can equip it with an office or a gym, a winter garden or just a place to relax. Often a balcony is combined with a room, making it much larger.

Repair must be carried out thoughtfully, otherwise the result will be very sad!

Since the loggia and balcony are cold rooms according to the project, their ceilings and walls do not have thermal insulation. The thermal conductivity of such walls is too high, they pass cold with very little resistance.

Warm vapors should not penetrate under the insulation, otherwise it will lead to condensation inside. As a result, the walls can freeze, frost forms on them, mold appears on the neighbors, and not the most comfortable environment is created in your apartment.

The way out of this situation will be almost hermetic thermal insulation. A vapor barrier must be installed.

So how do you properly insulate a balcony?

The transformation of cold rooms into warm ones begins with the processing of the parapet. It should be made of foam blocks or concrete. It is impossible to insulate metal parapets.

Balcony glazing should be warm, it is best to use metal-plastic profiles with double-glazed windows. More details about them can be found in the corresponding section on glazing.

After glazing, it is necessary to exclude drafts, due to which wind can walk under the thermal insulation. Foam insulation is used to seal cracks.

After these works, the surface is checked for leaks or mold. If such shortcomings are identified, they must be eliminated.

The warming process is carried out in a circle y. All surfaces are insulated, except for the wall adjacent to the room (ceiling, side walls, floor).

On the walls, it is best to use extruded XPS polystyrene foam as a heater. Foamed foil polyethylene can be used for vapor barrier and as an additional insulation.

XPS extruded polystyrene foam is a material in which polystyrene granules are mixed with a blowing agent at high temperatures and pressure, which is then extruded from an extruder.

The foaming agent in this process is usually a mixture of light freons, to which CO2 is added. After the production of the plate in the cells of the material, the residual freon is quickly replaced by air.

This structure of the material provides it with excellent thermal properties. lasting for a long time, as well as high compressive strength.

For the production of foamed polyethylene, high-pressure polyethylene is used, hydrocarbons are taken as a blowing agent.

The surface of the material is smooth, the structure is with small pores, there are no open-pore cells. This ensures low moisture absorption. The stiffness of the material is between the values ​​of the same indicator for foamed polystyrene and foamed rubber.

Advantages of XPS extruded polystyrene foam: high resilience, flexibility, elasticity, excellent resistance to chemical and biological degradation. The material is distinguished by high shock-absorbing performance, it is durable and environmentally friendly, resistant to shock loads, hydrophobic, and has low water absorption.

Moving from theory to practice

Now we will put into practice the selected materials - extruded XPS polystyrene foam and foil-foamed polyethylene. They are offered by different manufacturers. When choosing a particular brand, it is best to familiarize yourself with the manufacturer's website, compare the characteristics of products from different brands.

Both materials can be of different thicknesses. With an increase in the thickness of the insulation layer, the thermal conductivity decreases, the warmer it becomes in the room. That is, a thicker layer better resists heat loss to the outside.

On the websites of manufacturing companies, there are usually tables indicating all the important characteristics of their products, so you can make the necessary calculations for a particular room.

However, such calculations are the prerogative of experienced engineers, and not people who have encountered such work for the first time.

Therefore, you can resort to a simpler solution, starting from the rules:

• on uncombined balconies and loggias, it is necessary to install polystyrene with a thickness of 30 mm or more;
• on the balconies combined with the room, polystyrene with a thickness of 50 mm or more is used.

The vapor barrier layer in the first case should be from 3 mm, in the second - from 5 mm.

These simple rules almost always work. Of course, for this it is necessary that the apartment is well heated, the windows in it are installed in compliance with all GOST standards, and the balcony has its own heat source. These parameters are suitable for the climatic conditions of central Russia.

Polystyrene is produced in sheets of 1200x600 mm. At the edges of each plate, a step is provided to form a “warm seam” with the previous sheet, fastening takes place step by step.

Where it is impossible to install sheets with each other in this way, they are mounted end-to-end, and mounting foam is used to fill the seams. It is more convenient and economical to use a special gun for this.

The room is insulated in a circle according to the principle described above. First you need to drill the polystyrene and the wall to the required thickness, and then install the dowel in the hole. Two such fasteners are enough for each sheet.

After fixing the polystyrene plates between the wall and them, the resulting seams need to be foamed. In the same way, seams are processed, which are obtained by connecting sheets not a step to a step. Further, all seams are glued with adhesive tape.

Already after passing this stage, you will notice that the room has become much warmer.

Now you need to protect the polystyrene from the penetration of wet vapors from the room. This step is a must! Polyethylene foam foil provides not only vapor barrier. This material also reflects heat and sounds.

To install the vapor barrier, you need to roll out the roll and cut into pieces of calculated sizes. Double-sided adhesive tape is glued on the back of the material, then the vapor barrier is attached to polystyrene. When working, it is desirable to avoid overlapping joints.

The seams are sealed with foil tape. And so we got a room that already works inside on the principle of a thermos and is reliably protected from external cold.

We have completed the warming phase! It's time to start decorating the room.

Pay attention to an important addition.

Insulation can not be laid between the laths of the crate or joists.

The insulation must be integral, the heterogeneous structure of the insulation layer is not allowed. Otherwise, the formed cold bridges will subsequently negatively affect the result.

And one more important digression. Do not forget that all balconies and loggias are different rooms, houses are built from different wall materials, different heating systems are used in apartments. Accordingly, these individual characteristics must be taken into account. The use of the same materials and technologies on two completely different balconies does not guarantee an equal result.

Balconies and loggias are cold rooms from the very beginning, therefore, it would be right to simply finish them without changing the design functionality.

But if you decide to insulate one way or another, then resort to the technology described by us. It has been tested over the years, on its own experience, for optimal creation of comfort and coziness.

Is it possible to insulate the balcony with your own hands. Definitely possible! But you will need to stock up on strength and patience.

An example of warming a loggia with P-44T foam, see the video:

Proper insulation of the balcony

Most of our apartments are too cramped for living and many people resort to connecting rooms with kitchens, balconies, loggias, trying in this way to expand the living space. Therefore, questions about the proper insulation of the balcony are always relevant.

If we start from the laws of physics, then the insulation of balconies must be carried out on the cold side of the building envelope of any surface. At the same time, the old fence is in the zone of positive temperatures, and moisture vapor from a warm room easily passes through the insulation, does not accumulate and does not linger, but penetrates.

The multi-layer construction, together with the insulation, works reliably, and the heat-insulating characteristics do not decrease. If all the work was done correctly, the best materials were chosen, it will be very comfortable in such an apartment, which received additional usable space due to the balcony.

But in many houses, external insulation is often not possible. Therefore, it is necessary to resort to internal insulation of balconies and loggias.

At first glance, this is the simplest task. It is enough to buy a heater, stick it to the wall, sheathe it with sheet materials, install a heat source - and that's it, for many years of comfort and warmth are provided.

Everything is not as simple as it seems.

If you have already insulated your balcony or loggia in this way, you probably noticed that in cold weather condensation appears near the wall - water that comes from nowhere.

Condensation on the floor - where does it come from?

Internal insulation of a heated balcony transfers the building envelope to the area of ​​negative temperatures, which are always below the dew point. At the same time, moisture vapor from a warm room (when moving from an area of ​​high to an area of ​​low partial pressure) passes through the installed heat-insulating layer as more loose and stops at a dense cold fence. Steam condenses on a cold plane. Further, after the transition of the steam into a drop-liquid state, depending on the weather conditions and microclimatic indicators in the apartment, the process turns into the wetting of the fence and insulation.

The insulation loses a significant part of its heat-saving characteristics, with an increase in wetting, the material becomes unable to retain water and it flows out of the wall.

Even if water does not flow out of the wall, this is not a reason to rejoice, because the thermal insulation gets wet anyway, its properties are lost. Favorable conditions are created for the development of mold fungus. Thus, the meaning of insulation is lost - it seems to be there, but at the same time it is not there.

And what to do, how to avoid such troubles?

There is a way out of this situation. We will consider two solutions that allow you to insulate a balcony or loggia from the inside and at the same time avoid the described phenomenon.

According to the first option, you will need to install a special vapor barrier in front of the heater. This will prevent the penetration of water vapor into the insulation. This is a reliable method even when using insulation with maximum vapor permeability (for example, if mineral wool is used for thermal insulation). For this option, dry construction technology is recommended, which occurs according to the method of wall cladding.

At the same time, instead of drywall and metal profiles, it is enough to use PVC or MDF bars and wall panels.

The vapor barrier is polyethylene film, foil or membranes specially designed for such tasks. Internal insulation involves the installation of a structure in the form of a “pie” with the same order of layers (the same for walls, floors and ceilings).

The advantage of the first method is that there are practically no wet processes during operation, with the exception of the stage of filling the seams and joints between the gypsum boards. The disadvantage of the method is the lack of the ability to “breathe” in such a system.

According to the second option, the vapor barrier is not installed separately, but the insulation is performed using certain materials with minimal vapor permeability. These materials include conventional and extruded polystyrene foam.

According to the second method, mineral wool, which has too high vapor permeability, cannot be used.

In this case, it is necessary to choose such a thickness of the insulation at which moisture will not accumulate - that is, at which the necessary resistance to vapor permeation is provided.

Let's take an example. When using ordinary expanded polystyrene with a density value of 25 kg / m3, according to the standards given in SNiP, the thickness of the insulation should be from 80 mm. This thickness will also provide good heat saving.

If extruded polystyrene foam is used, then the calculation is carried out taking into account the much lower vapor permeability of such material (3-10 times, depending on the manufacturer, lower than that of conventional polystyrene foam). Accordingly, a 30 mm layer of such insulation is sufficient to achieve the same result.

But this thickness is insufficient if we talk about the thermal protection of the room. To achieve optimal performance, it is recommended to install extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of 50-60 mm. In general, to determine the required thickness of the insulation, it is required to carry out a heat engineering calculation of the building envelope, which takes into account local standards and climatic features.

Both types of expanded polystyrene are attached to a brick or concrete base using special compounds. For example, you can use Knauf-Sevener or Ceresit ST85.

When the primary hardening of the glue has occurred, the plates are also fixed with dowels-fungi.

On the surface of expanded polystyrene plates, it is necessary to equip a protective reinforced layer, created from the same adhesive composition.

The glue is applied to a sheet of expanded polystyrene, which must first be processed with coarse sandpaper. Layer thickness 2-3 mm. Alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh with a mesh size of 5x5 mm is embedded in this layer. Immediately on top of the grid you need to apply a second layer of adhesive.

The fiberglass mesh should be inside between the layers of glue, it should not be applied immediately to the insulation and glued to it with glue. In this case, it will not be able to perform the reinforcement function assigned to it.

When the reinforced layer hardens, you can start puttying the surface, and then paint it, glue wallpaper, plaster with decorative compositions with different textures, etc.

An example of insulating a balcony with polystyrene foam in a video:

Owners of city apartments often wonder how to insulate a balcony inside with their own hands. This procedure is actually quite simple. However, it is still necessary to comply with the established technologies during its implementation. First of all, of course, you will need to decide how to insulate the balcony inside with your own hands. The type of sheathing of the parapet, walls and ceiling will largely depend on the type of material chosen.

Expanded polystyrene or mineral wool?

These two materials for warming balconies and loggias are most often chosen. Expanded polystyrene is a little more expensive than mineral wool. However, at the same time, it is also the best answer to the question of how to insulate the balcony inside. The fact is that when sheathing the loggia from the side of the living quarters, the so-called is located inside the insulating "pie". Therefore, it is much better to use moisture-resistant material for insulation. Inexpensive mineral wool, unfortunately, does not differ in such properties. It absorbs moisture very quickly. Of course, you can use it. However, in this case, you will have to pay maximum attention to waterproofing. So the best answer to the question of how to insulate a balcony inside with your own hands is still polystyrene foam.

Material characteristics

When choosing sheets for balcony insulation, you should pay attention to the following factors:

• density,

Expanded polystyrene sheets produced by modern manufacturers have standard sizes: 2x1, 0.5x1 or 1x1. Those who wondered how to sheathe a balcony from the inside should think about purchasing smaller sheets. It will be very inconvenient to mount too large plates in the limited space of the loggia. For a balcony, the best option is 0.5x1 or, in extreme cases, 1x1.

As for the thickness, you can buy absolutely any polystyrene foam for a balcony. The only thing that should be guided in this case is such an indicator as the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe loggia. After assembling the warming cake on the balcony, there should be enough free space for a comfortable pastime. Most often, the owners of loggias of typical Soviet-built houses choose polystyrene foam with a thickness of 40-50 mm.

The density of this type of insulation can be found by looking at the marking. The best answer to the question of how to sheathe a balcony from the inside is to use 15-25 grade polystyrene foam. The higher the numbers, the lower the thermal conductivity of the material, and the more brittle it is. If the expanded polystyrene is supposed to be covered with decorative plaster or wallpaper in the future, it is worth buying thicker plates. If lining or panels will be used as a quality, you can take loose sheets that retain heat well.

Where to begin?

So, how to insulate the balcony inside with your own hands, you now know. Next, let's look at how to do it right. Before proceeding with the installation of the insulating "pie", it is necessary to carefully prepare the loggia itself. First of all, the wooden floors are dismantled. Then proceed to repair the parapet. If there are through cracks in it, they must be sealed with sealant. Chips are sealed with cement mortar or moisture-resistant putty. Similarly, prepare the walls, floor and ceiling.

Loggia waterproofing

Having wondered how to properly insulate the balcony with their own hands inside, the owners of the apartment must first of all make sure that it is always dry in this small room. Waterproofing during this operation is considered mandatory (especially when using mineral wool as a heater). In its absence:

the service life of the balcony finish will be reduced;

all metal structures will quickly rust;

due to increased humidity, various kinds of fungi will begin to develop, as a result of which an unpleasant odor will appear on the loggia.

Sometimes, on balconies not insulated in this way, the supporting structures even begin to collapse, which, of course, is very dangerous.

The easiest way is to waterproof the balcony using bitumen-polymer mastic. It is heated to a liquid state, the floor is poured into it and the parapet is smeared in 2-3 layers. Sometimes roll materials are also used to waterproof the balcony.

What kind of glue do you need

Those who wondered how to insulate the balcony inside with polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam should, among other things, take care of using suitable glue to fix the sheets. It is allowed to mount this material directly on the mastic (on polymer-bitumen - immediately, on bituminous - after complete drying). In this case, special glue should be used. It's called Bitumast.

What else to buy

Thus, you now know how to insulate the balcony inside with your own hands. Photos of polystyrene sheets - the most suitable material for this purpose - can be seen on the page. However, in addition to them and glue, to insulate the balcony, you will also need to prepare:

reinforcing mesh,

fungus dowels,

polyurethane foam (without toluene),

decorative plaster or wallpaper.

pasting technology

So, next, let's see how to insulate the loggia from the inside. Start the installation of sheets should be from the corner. This rule is true both when pasting a parapet, and walls or a ceiling. Actually the installation operation itself is performed as follows:

Styrofoam sheets are roughened. To do this, they are passed with a special needle roller. Treated in this way, they will hold much better.

A support rail is attached to the bottom of the parapet.

The adhesive solution is evenly applied to the surface of the wall, ceiling or parapet.

Firmly press the polystyrene foam to the surface.

Mount the material for insulating the balcony from the inside in such a way that the joints between the sheets have a T-shape (as when laying bricks). After the plate is glued, it should be additionally fixed with mushroom dowels (5 per sheet). Holes for them can be drilled directly through the sheets. At the final stage, the joints are processed. In this case, building foam is used.

Reinforcing mesh gluing

Expanded polystyrene is an excellent answer to the question of how best to insulate a balcony inside. However, decorative plaster on this material does not hold very well. To remedy the situation, use a special reinforcing mesh. Mount it as follows:

Previously, the polystyrene foam surface of the ceiling, parapet and walls is completely coated with glue (for polystyrene).

Another layer of glue is applied on top of it. Its thickness should be such that the mesh joints do not protrude above the surface plane.

fine finish

So, we have figured out how to insulate the balcony with our own hands. A step-by-step photo of this process is presented above. As you can see, this procedure is relatively simple. At the final stage, the dried adhesive surface is passed with a special grater to give it a roughness. Next, proceed to the application of decorative plaster. You can also wallpaper the balcony.

Second way

The loggia isolation technique discussed above is suitable when using dense polystyrene foam. And if the owners decided to buy mineral wool as an insulator? How to insulate a balcony with your own hands? A step-by-step (photo of the process is presented below) work guide in this case will look like this:

A frame of wooden beams is attached to the parapet, walls, floor and ceiling. The step between its elements should be equal to the width of the plates of the selected insulation. The beam can be fixed to the concrete parapet with self-tapping screws. For balconies with metal railings, an independent paving construction is assembled.

Further, the insulation itself is inserted between the elements of the frame. The material is attached to the concrete parapet with “fungi” (expanded polystyrene can be additionally glued). If the fence is metal, it is better to use cotton wool and insert it by surprise. If expanded polystyrene is chosen for insulation, you can, for example, fix plywood on the back side of the frame and glue the material to it.

It is stretched over the insulation. It is better to fasten it with thin laths (two on each side of the beam).

the balcony is trimmed with clapboard, plastic panels, drywall or plywood. Attach the material to the bars of the frame.

How to insulate the floor

The base of the balcony is isolated last. The floor is preliminarily waterproofed, and then logs are installed on it. The answer to the question of how to insulate inside is simple. Most often, expanded polystyrene or mineral wool is laid between the bars. You can also use expanded clay. A vapor barrier is attached over the insulation, and then a floor or edged board is stuffed. Then the floor is covered with linoleum or finished with any other suitable material.

Balcony heating

Whatever answer to the question of how to insulate the balcony inside, the owners of the house choose for themselves, subject to the installation technology, in the future it will be possible to have a good time here, including in winter. However, on very cold days, even an insulated loggia may require additional heating. It is strictly forbidden to take out the central heating by the regulations. Therefore, the best solution would be to install a conventional electric heater here. It should be placed against the wall separating the balcony and the apartment. It is not recommended to install heaters near the parapet. The fact is that in this case, due to the rising warm air on the balcony, the windows will begin to fog up heavily.

You can also arrange on the loggia

Warm floor

This work is done as follows:

Thermal insulation material is laid on the floor.

Installed metal

Installed heating cable.

A thermostat is hung on the wall.

A concrete screed with a thickness of 30-40 mm is poured.

The floor covering is laid.

Well, we hope we answered the question in sufficient detail about how to insulate the balcony inside with our own hands and how to do it right. The most important thing when assembling a "pie" is not to violate the established technology. In this case, the balcony will turn out cozy and warm.