To private wooden house receive, it is necessary to make a multi-layer structure. This will ensure a cozy microclimate in the room and save money on heating.

But, in order to properly equip an even and high-quality final coating with your own hands, you must first make a subfloor. Structure and complexity will be dictated by the type heating elements that are planned to be installed in the house.

The rough floor is needed, first of all, to level the surface on which the final coating will be laid. That is why during installation it is required to observe the horizontal position of the laid log and timber, because they will be the base.

Also, a draft floor is necessary to create high-quality thermal insulation in a wooden house. Its thermal insulation layer is different thickness, which depends on the specific insulation used, and it is mounted on waterproofing.

Each element consisting of wood in such a floor must be impregnated with a special moisture-resistant mixture to prevent them from rotting in the future.

In the first few years after laying, log cabins can shrink a lot, in some cases up to 17 cm within 3 years. To prevent deformation finish coat, the system of fastening elements of the subfloor directly to the walls of the room is used.

Rarely used in such structures. concrete screed to create a flat surface. The entire load falls on the subfloor during the use of the house, which is why it is advisable to choose dried logs and timber for installation, with a thickness of at least 5 cm.

In order to properly distribute the load on the base, it is necessary to correctly select the step for installing the lag and the thickness of the boards.

During the construction of the house, the foundation will determine what type of subfloor to use.

Usually laying occurs on:

• special floors (either beams or reinforced concrete slabs);
• directly to the ground.

To create a high-quality subfloor in any wooden house, the following materials are used:

1. Brick pillars, the size of which is 40x40 cm and not less than 20 cm in height. They will be installed on cement mortar. To determine the required number of them, you need to calculate based on parameters such as the size of the lag, as well as the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room.
2. Waterproofing. It can be like normal polyethylene film increased density, as well as other materials with such properties. Such material is necessary to prevent rotting of wooden elements.
3. Logs. They will be attached to the established brick pillars. The distance between them is determined by the size of the boards, and their length will be equal to the corresponding characteristics of the room.
4. Fastening elements like corners and bolts.
5. Material to be used for lining rough coating. It can be like boards or plywood.
6. Elements that will be used as insulation and waterproofing materials.

To choose the right material, you need to give preference to those types that meet stringent requirements. During the selection, it is worth taking into account: the presence of good thermal conductivity, strength, as well as the fire safety of the material, the complexity of installation and weight.

The best qualities among heaters are: expanded polystyrene, glass wool, and basalt wool.

• The first option is very expensive pleasure. Usually its use is advisable in cases where the insulation is required to be put in a layer of the minimum thickness.
• Average in the price / quality ratio is basalt wool. It is quite dense, non-flammable and has good moisture resistant properties.
• Glass wool is very sensitive to moisture, so good waterproofing is necessary for its installation.
• Isoplast, polyethylene, as well as PVC membranes and ordinary roofing material are used as waterproofing. These products have good basic properties to protect the insulation from possible penetration from moisture.

Subfloor installation is step by step process stacking different layers:

1. First you need to nail the cranial bars to the lags in the lower side part. For this, boards are suitable, the width of which is 8 cm more than that of the log. ;
2. From above, boards are laid on the bars and they are not fixed. They will act as the basis for the next thermal insulation layer;
3. Various film options act as waterproofing. During laying, it is worth remembering that this material should silently go onto the walls, where it will be fixed with a stapler;
4. After waterproofing, insulation is laid between the beams. If the height allows, it can be laid in several layers, and on top of it is a vapor barrier, which should also go onto the walls. Fixation can be done with a stapler and tape. If the logs are the same height as the insulation, counter rails are used to form ventilation. They need to be nailed along the lag and the desired clearance will be obtained;
5. The last layer is a coating of boards or chipboard sheets. During installation, a gap of 2 cm must be left between them and the wall. It must be sealed with thermal insulation, after which the subfloor will be ready.

A high-quality and beautiful floor is the basis of comfort in the house. The floor is an interior decoration, but not only. During operation, it withstands the weight of people and furniture in the house, helps to save heat. For it to be so, he needs a solid foundation.

In the case of a house made of wood, this base will be the subfloor wooden lags. It is easy to make with your own hands, it is strong and durable.

The purpose of the subfloor

AT general sense subfloor - flooring over the ceiling or beams at the base of the building, which is laid under the floor covering. For its manufacture, it is used various materials, most commonly wood. It can be OSB-board, plywood or cutting boards. In the case of non-residential buildings, lumber can be used without pre-treatment of the ends, as well as used.

The draft floor helps to solve three main tasks:

• Additional thermal insulation.

One of the most popular subfloor designs is the joist design. It is easy to place a roll of insulating material in the space between the beams, which will significantly reduce heat loss.

• Leveling the base for flooring.

It is difficult to create a beautiful floor on uneven surface. This is solved with wood-based boards or plywood.

• Increase bearing capacity gender.

A high-quality and reliable base will allow you to use any floor coverings without regard to their strength.

There are several subfloor options. The main difference between them is the material. The floor can be a time-tested concrete screed. It is a good choice for high humidity environments. Concrete base fit for a bathroom in the house, a shower cabin or a bath.

If you need to prepare a flat base for linoleum, laminate or other material that is not very durable, it is enough to make a simple subfloor from plywood or OSB boards. It cannot boast of good thermal protection, therefore it is more suitable for non-residential premises.

Advice. The best choice for the residential part of the house is the draft floor wooden beams. This is a great option that is equally suitable for any room in a wooden house and not only.

Design features

At the heart of the floor on wooden logs are beams (). Are these bars made of wood or polymer materials, laid parallel to each other, which serve as a support for the sheet material. This is one of the most common options for creating a subfloor.

It is distinguished by:

• sufficient ease of installation;
• low cost of the material;
• a significant increase in the strength of the floor;
• uniform load distribution;
• ease of installation of thermal insulation and noise protection.

Not to mention the versatility of this type rough floor. Logs can be laid on the ground, wooden or concrete surfaces Of course, in all cases it is important to ensure maximum protection of the tree from moisture. The result of a properly performed work will be a dry ventilated underground, which will positively affect the characteristics of the floor and the structure as a whole.

Material selection

The reliability and durability of the floor directly depend on the quality of the material used. First of all, this applies to beams. For their manufacture, you will need a bar with a section of 50 x 50 mm or a board with a thickness of at least 50 mm, a width of 150 mm. The exact parameters are selected individually for each specific project.

An important detail of the floor on the logs are cranial bars - slats of small section (approximately 20 x 30 mm), which are attached to the beam along its length and serve to lay the material that supports thermal insulation. As such, OSB boards or plywood are most often used.

Timber and boards for draft floors must have sufficient strength and be resistant to decay. Structures are made from conifers tree. Beams can be from any available wood, the most common option is pine.

In addition to timber, you will need sheet material to create a substrate for flooring, roll waterproofing, antiseptic for wood impregnation and heat insulator ( mineral wool).

Floor on joists

Anyone can make a reliable and durable black floor in a wooden house with their own hands. House master. This is not a very difficult task, but in order to achieve the desired result, you will have to work hard. The work itself can be divided into two major stages. The first is the preparation and fastening of the lag, the second is the cutting and laying of sheet material.

Fastening

The first thing to do before starting work is to sketch out a floor plan and calculate the amount of material. It is necessary to calculate the number of beams and multiply by the length. It is important to choose the right laying step. It is calculated individually and depends on the area of ​​the room, the material to be used in the second stage, its thickness and mechanical strength.

Advice. The device of the subfloor with insulation has its own specifics. When choosing a lag step, it is worth stopping at its standard value, namely 55–58 cm. This is due to the fact that the width of a standard sheet of mineral wool is 60 cm.

Before starting installation, it is necessary to impregnate the beams with an antiseptic. Professionals recommend processing wood in two stages, which will provide maximum protection for wood, and therefore the durability of the structure as a whole. If the ends of the log will lie on the foundation, it is imperative to lay two layers of roofing material or a modern analogue between the wood and concrete.

To fix the beams to the wall, you will need metal holders. Several of their modifications are on sale, pick up best option for each specific case will not be difficult. Fasteners are easy to install, it guarantees high reliability of the floor and its durability.

When mounting the logs, it is important to ensure that their upper faces lie in the same plane. For control, you can use a long, even rail, to make sure the surface is horizontal, you will need building level. Correcting a slight misalignment is easy; you need to put an adjusting pad under the sagging beam. It should be made of metal or plastic (the wood will soon sag, causing the floors to creak).

Mounting

Using a screwdriver or an electric drill with a nozzle, cranial bars are screwed along the lower edge of the log. Their task is to support plywood or wood board, which will serve as a support for mineral wool. Sheet material is cut, focusing on the step of the beams. Instead of plates, you can use cutting boards.

Advice. When cutting sheets for laying in the space between the lags, one should not strive for perfect accuracy, on the contrary, it is better to cut blanks 1–2 cm narrower. This compensates for the possible curvature of the bars themselves, and it is easy to close the gaps with mounting foam.

The assembled frame is covered with a vapor barrier. Can be bought expensive roll material membrane type or limit yourself to cheap plastic wrap. In any case, the isolation must be reliable. The film is fixed with a construction stapler, the joints are glued with adhesive tape.

Lay the first layer of cotton wool. If a standard step is selected during the installation of the lag, there will be no problems. If necessary, the cotton wool is lightly tamped around the edges so that it fills everything. inner space. Next, lay the second layer. It is important to offset half or a third of the sheet.

The thickness of the insulation is chosen based on local climatic conditions. For middle lane 10 cm is enough, for the north of the country - at least 15 cm. Waterproofing is laid on top of the top layer. On the beams, it is additionally fixed with a stapler, the joints must be sealed with adhesive tape.

A rail 20–30 mm thick is stuffed over the log, it will provide good ventilation finishing floor, protect it from mold. The warm draft floor is almost ready. It remains only to lay the finishing floor boards or sheet material, which will serve as the basis for carpet, linoleum, laminate.

In order for the new floor to fully meet expectations, it is necessary to initially decide on the purpose of the room and the type of flooring, it is on its parameters that the width and thickness of the beams, their step depends. For the most part, a subfloor using OSB or plywood is seen as optimal. The technology of working with the material is not particularly difficult, and the result is a smooth and reliable coating.

Working with sheet material is really simple, but in order to avoid mistakes, you should follow a few simple recommendations:

• regardless of the purpose of the room, use only waterproof boards;
• joints should pass along the lags;
• sheets should not be laid end-to-end, but with gaps of 2–3 mm between them and at least 5 mm from the wall, subsequently the joints are filled with foam;
• for fastening the plates, it is necessary to use wood screws, the length of which is at least one and a half times the thickness of the plate.

Do not try to save on material. It is important not to forget that the reliability of the product consists of the quality of parts and components plus good work. In order to make good rough floors in a wooden house, you need to soberly assess your strengths.

Yes, this is not the most difficult thing, but you definitely cannot do without the initial skills of a builder and the ability to work with the material. It may be worthwhile to involve a specialist in the work, at least not be afraid to ask for advice.

To make a rough floor in a wooden house with your own hands without violating technology, you must comply with the requirements of the standards SP 31-105 (Energy Efficient frame house single-family).

The subfloor on wooden beams is used exclusively as a base for floor coverings that do not have design strength for the planned operational loads (for example, linoleum, carpet, laminate).

In addition, the floor provides flat surface for small-format coverings (e.g. parquet, pvc tile) by analogy with continuous crate roofs for shingles. Or it protects floor coverings from excessive heating when installing under it contours of a warm floor (for example, linoleum).

The only guide on how to make a subfloor inside wooden cottage, currently is SP 31-105.

Foundation and ceiling of a wooden house

A cottage made of a log house, timber or built using frame technology can be based on any type of foundation, depending on the terrain and soil conditions:

Important! In the latter version, the device of the subfloor in a wooden house is made using the technology of cold or insulated ceiling above the underground. Therefore, inside it is necessary natural ventilation, protection against radon and moisture. Materials must be laid taking into account the increase in vapor permeability from the inside to the outside.

What is a "rough floor"

It should start with the fact that in the absence of specialized education, individual developers unfamiliar with professional terminology call different designs a subfloor:

These structures are not always found in pairs of floors. For example, in garden house and other seasonal buildings without heating, there may not be a filing on the cranial bar, since in this case it makes no sense to insulate the ceiling. But when choosing a laminate as a floor covering, the installation of a subfloor in a wooden house in this example is necessary to ensure the strength of the base of the cladding.

Subfloor technology

In the regulations building codes it is indicated how to properly lay the subfloor on wooden floors or beams along concrete slab, earthen floor. The flooring is made of board materials (plywood, chipboard, OSB), edged board and tongue. The main requirements are:

Important! Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws, with the exception of the sub-base for an elastic floor covering. In this option, only nails with ribs or ruff notches can be used.

Insulating materials are arranged inside the floor pie as follows:

• waterproofing - placed under the beams / girders, on top of the flooring along the tiled bar, prevents the wood from absorbing moisture from concrete, is made of a diffusion / superdiffusion membrane;
• vapor barrier - immediately under the subfloor on top of all other layers, it is better to use foil, reflecting part of the heat back into the room;
• thermal insulation - reduces or completely eliminates heat loss in the floors;
• soundproofing - in a wooden house it is usually mounted only on the upper floors.

Pie hardwood floor with subfloor.

It is recommended to impregnate wood with antiseptics, flame retardants or complex fire and bioprotection before cutting materials. After sawing, drilling, etc. machining it is necessary to process the cut with a brush.

Even if the impregnation with these substances was not carried out due to lack of time or due to the developer's forgetfulness, this can be done after installation. However, before treating the subfloor with flame retardant and antiseptic, the surface should be cleaned and, if possible, dedusted.

Material selection

Applicable OSB boards and other materials with sufficient rigidity and strength. In wood-based boards, the formaldehyde emission class should be low - only E0 or E1.

Thickness structural material selected according to the table:

Beam pitch, m	Material thickness, cm
	DSP, plywood	GVL	board	Chipboard
0,4	1,5	3	1,6	1,6
0,5	1,6	3,6	2	2
0,6	1,8	3,6	2	2,5

Advice! The thickness of the GVL and plywood can be reduced to 1.2 cm if the final flooring is a tongue-and-groove board with a minimum thickness of 1.8 cm, laid strictly perpendicular to the beams in increments of 0.6 m.

Production of wooden floors

The main tasks in the construction of this structure over an unheated underground are:

• waterproofing - diffusion / superdiffusion membrane;
• ventilation - ventilation in the basement of the building, protected from the penetration of rodents by a mesh, the size of each window is 20 x 20 cm minimum, overall size 1/400 of the foundation area, it is forbidden to close for the winter, the blind area should be cleared of snow, which can block the airflow;
• insulation - blind areas to eliminate frost swelling at a depth of 0.4 m, the outer faces of the foundation / grillage.

Important! Ordinary polyethylene film completely transmits harmful radon, which is why it cannot be used as a waterproofing if there is an underfloor. This material is destroyed by cold, has a low operational resource.

Therefore, only film membranes of the following types are currently used:

If you mix up which side to lay the hydro and vapor barrier, all moisture will remain inside the floor structure, which will lead to the rapid destruction of wood.

The location of the membranes inside the ceiling under the subfloor.

Installation of girders and beams

The classic scheme of the subfloor on the logs of the wooden floor looks like this:

• timber 10 x 15 or 15 x 15 cm in increments of 0.8 - 1 m;
• cranial bar 4 x 4 cm or 5 x 5 cm along the bottom of the beams;
• solid filing of boards, chipboard boards, DSP thickness 2.5 cm;
• kraft paper or glassine as waterproofing;
• mineral wool 10 - 15 cm thick;
• film (polyethylene or vinyl);
• black floor board 3.8 - 5 cm.

Currently, the design has been improved:

• board 5 x 20 cm per edge with a step of 0.4 - 0.6 m;
• polymer or wire mesh instead of a solid filing;
• waterproofing from a multilayer membrane;
• basalt wool 20 cm thick;
• vapor barrier;
• black floor made of coniferous 3 - 3.5 cm tongue, 1.6 - 2 cm DSP, plywood, chipboard or OSB-3;
• damper tape around the perimeter or a strip of polystyrene foam, stone wool.

Thanks to the damper layer, the structure becomes floating, the walls are unloaded, and the service life increases. However, with an increase in the height of the beams and a decrease in the width, stability deteriorates. Therefore, spacers are used, horizontal and vertical connections between adjacent boards 5 x 20 cm, mounted on edge.

If the project includes beams 10 x 15 cm or 15 x 15 cm with big step between them, the developer will be cheaper by the above-described overlapping scheme for modern methodology the following reasons:

• board 5 x 20 cm per edge through 0.6 m ( standard width insulation) will cost less than a board 5 cm thick for the entire subfloor, which will have to be laid with a distance between the beams of more than 1 m;
• a large cross-section beam rarely has an ideal geometry, so the horizontal of the black floor can be leveled with boards;
• the width of the insulation laid between the beams increases;
• to eliminate structural noise between the girders and beams, it is enough to lay a special material.

Floating soundproof wooden floor.

Various ways to support beams on walls are shown in the figure below.

For self-selection cross-sections of beams, it is necessary to know the loads and dimensions of the spans. This table will help:

Binder options

In interfloor wooden floors, the owner usually uses a solid filing of a board or slab material in his house.

There is no lower floor in the basement, so decorating the underground ceiling is not required. This allows you to reduce the consumption of materials and construction time:

Advice! AT floors floor filing can be immediately made from a block house or eurolining, used as a ceiling cladding.

Draft floor

After laying all the insulating layers in the made on their own wooden frame floors, subfloor flooring is made:

• single-layer for large-format facings;
• two-layer for parquet and PVC tiles.

For most existing facings, there is not much difference from what the subfloor is made of. However, for porcelain stoneware, tiles and mosaics, it is necessary to use DSP or GVL, with which the tile adhesive has normal adhesion.

Important! For sheet materials the recommended fastening step for screws, nails or self-tapping screws is 15 - 30 cm. Hats are usually recessed flush, then puttied. Chipboard boards, tongue and groove and interlocked gypsum fiber panels provide perfect floor flatness, but cost more than edged board, OSB and plywood without edge interlocks.

Wood processing materials

Since moisture can penetrate into the base of the floor covering from the soil below and from the room above, the subfloor materials need to be impregnated with an antiseptic. In addition, to ensure the fire safety of lumber and wood-based boards, they should be coated with flame retardants that increase the fire resistance limit.

The following antiseptics are most in demand:

• on an organic basis - they penetrate deeply, but have a pungent odor, it is necessary to ventilate the rooms;
• on the water based- water-repellent additives are present in dispersions in the form of suspended particles, they do not penetrate deeply, but they allow the processing of wet wood.

Important! When using organic-based antiseptics, the application technology is similar to dyeing, dipping materials into these liquids is allowed. Water-soluble antiseptics and dispersions should be intensively rubbed into the lumber with a brush until foam appears, indicating the beginning of the reaction with the material and the normal quality of the impregnation.

To save the construction budget, it is enough to choose a budgetary "preventive" water-soluble antiseptic for internal works. Unlike the "healing" hydrophobic liquid, it does not correct the defects existing in the wood, does not decorative properties and does not require additional processing glazing composition, emphasizing the structure of the fibers. But it absorbs and dries faster, it is easier to wash off the tool and overalls.

Flame retardants are rarely sold separately, usually included in combined products. For example, fire retardants and antiseptics are present in the fire and bioprotection product, which reduces the processing time of structural materials.

Technology nuances

The black floor allows the use of a decorative floor facing material, which does not have self-supporting properties, rigidity and strength to bending loads. The main difficulties arise with the device of partitions and remote consoles.

Partitions and walls

To ensure the operational resource of partitions, their installation should be carried out along the floor beams. If the internal bearing wall passes between the beams, they must be reinforced with jumpers from a board or a bar according to the scheme below. In order for the black flooring tree to withstand the load, the following conditions must be observed:

• step jumpers within 1.2 m;
• the minimum section of the bar is 40 x 90 mm.

Important! Jumpers are not needed if the partitions run perpendicular to the beams.

The internal main wall of a wooden cottage should be supported by bottom wall or overlay run. It can be displaced by 0.6 m in any direction relative to the supporting node of the floor beam between floors and by 0.9 m in the attic.

Bay windows and openings

If the size of the side of the opening in the ceiling, perpendicular to the axes of the beams, is more than 1.2 m, then they should be made double. Similarly, lintels that limit the opening parallel to the beams are strengthened if the size of the opening in the ceiling exceeds 0.8 m.

If there are bay windows in the project of a wooden cottage, the ceiling can extend beyond the perimeter of the walls as a cantilever. In this case, the following conditions must be met:

In the latter version, the beams are spliced ​​"to the floor of the tree", the cuts must be processed with hand or power tools.

Thus, the subfloor for laying flooring should be considered as part of a wooden floor, and not a flooring from edged boards. Before laying the tongue or GVL slabs, Chipboard, it is necessary to check the correct location of other layers, process the materials with fire bioprotection and select a rational scheme of beams.

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The arrangement of a wooden floor is recognized as the most time-consuming, expensive and complex, since any structure made of wood should be protected from direct contact with concrete. Otherwise, the floors will become unusable in a short time, and they will need to be replaced. Using some impregnation, you can protect the tree from decay. Chemical methods protections are very effective and prevent the process of damage to the material. However wooden structure, impregnated chemicals cannot be considered environmentally friendly. Considering that it is because of this indicator that a tree is chosen, few people use chemistry. When laying on concrete, waterproofing is required over the entire area between the layers. fasten wood flooring follows using metal squares to create a gap between the bases and the joists.

The draft floor denotes certain bases that form perfect surface for laying a finished floor. It is created to ensure the distribution of loads directed to the floor covering.

In wooden structures, draft floors are made by three methods:

• wooden on logs;
• pouring concrete;
• use of plywood flooring.

Wooden floors on logs

In a wooden house, the subfloor device does not differ from the installation of similar structures in a monolithic or brick structure. The only feature is how the lags are attached:

1. There is no need to attach lags to various wooden planks. Best Option- strengthen them to the basement or grillage of the foundation, retreating a couple of centimeters from all the walls. The distance from the support must be at least 11 cm on all sides of the lag.
2. Before laying the base, lay the strapping from below, which is made of a long and thin board. Logs are attached to it using metal anchors. They do not need to be rigidly strengthened with strapping. It should only be fixed so that they do not stagger while working on another layer of the floor. This design will have a few centimeters indent from the walls.

If the distance is less than 11 cm, then it is better to crash into the walls. But before that, it is necessary to make the initial laying on the base, then you should attach a choice of timber or logs. It is necessary to first measure the contour of the cutting site, then cut in the tree the dimensions necessary for the groove, which will be required for the support function.

Important: it is recommended to add about 2cm to further widen the lag. It must be remembered that the laying of the log and beams is done on the grillage or plinth when the laying of the waterproofing layer is completed.

The standard steps between two lags are 40-60 cm. However, when choosing, great emphasis is placed on the width of the insulation and the required load. Based on this, the choice of the lag section is made and operating load. With small sizes, the sections should be approximately 15x10, with heavy loads - 15x20, with medium ones - 15x15 centimeters. In case of excessive load action, if the beams have a small section, it is desirable to provide section parameters of 30x40 cm.

Installation of subfloors on logs

When the styling is done, you need to do standard installation. It is carried out in several stages:

1. It is necessary to fix the cranial bars. They have small sections (approximately 4 by 4), they are fixed in the lower parts of the log from the side. Professionals recommend replacing the cranial bar with boards that will have more lags in width. They will need to be nailed either along or below the lags.
2. Boards should be laid. They need to be laid on the cranial bar, but not fastened. Considering that their main task is to fix the insulation, they are left to lie freely.
3. Waterproofing. Lay it on the subfloor. This is done to avoid additional load. The waterproofing is laid so that it goes onto the wall at the level where the floor will be in the future. It is recommended to use film insulation, and use a stapler for fastening.
4. Thermal insulation - laid on waterproofing.
5. Vapor barrier. Lay in the same way as waterproofing.
6. Ventilation. For creating ventilation gap it will only be necessary to break through the counter rails along the lag on top of the vapor barrier.
7. Coating. At the final stage, it is proposed to apply chipboard sheets as well as boards. From the wall, the logs must be separated by a gap of 2 cm. They will then be placed heaters.

On our website you can find contacts construction companies, which offer the service of designing houses. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Video description

Read more about floor insulation in a wooden house - in this video:

Rough plywood floors

The floor in a wooden house is one of the most reliable options, because it has a high hardness. Plywood is also used for flooring. If it is well sanded and varnished, it looks expensive. But in most cases, it is then covered with linoleum or parquet flooring.

Plywood can be laid in one of two options:

1. On a cement base. It will be necessary to provide a horizontal and even base or use leveling stands.
2. Attach to the legs. The main thing is to correctly set the lags to ensure that the joint of the sheet hits them. The joists must be set in such a way that the top surface provides a straight line. They then remove the insulation and sound insulation.

Need to know! When laying plywood in 1 layer, it must be at least 15mm thick, if there are 2 layers - minimum thickness must be at least 9mm.

All debris and dust must be removed from the base prior to final laying. If possible, priming should also be done - primer treatment. Plywood must be fixed with glue, and the head of the self-tapping screw must be drowned.

Concrete floor

Like a draft and finishing floor in a wooden house, concrete version occurs less frequently than others. The concrete floor has one significant drawback - it is very cold. This problem can be solved with the help of thermal insulation material.

The advantages include durability and reliability. Compared to analogues, it is more even and durable. The concrete floor in a wooden house is also chosen because it is better preserved from destruction.

In a wooden house, a concrete floor is made in 11 stages:

1. Lay on the lags.
2. Lay on the ground.
3. A concrete screed is made on top of the wooden floor.
4. The floor horizon is set with marks (it is recommended to pull the cord for accuracy).
5. Stakes less than 11 cm should be hammered into the ground, so that later gravel can be poured over them. After that, it should be tamped and the pegs removed.
6. Next, the sand is poured.
7. Then a large polyethylene film is laid, creating an overlap on the walls. It will act as waterproofing.
8. Using slats, it is necessary to divide the room into equal strips. The width of each should be about 1 meter. The height of the installed rail must be equated with the height of the cord. The concrete is then poured onto the prepared surface.
9. Concrete is leveled along the rails.
10. Next, the concrete should be covered with a film and left to harden for several weeks. To avoid cracking, it is sometimes necessary to spray the mass with water.
11. After the expiration of the term, it is covered with a screed of cement and sand.

Materials for processing lags

Some factors external environment, for example, dampness, should not affect the lags. Therefore, when providing a floor in a wooden house, it is necessary to protect them from certain factors.

Bioprotective compounds

Drug with bioprotective composition protects the tree from mold, rot, blue stain, bugs and fungi. One application of such funds will provide protection for 27-32 years. You can buy them in the form of a concentrate. Sometimes a pigmenting substance is added to the composition, which makes it possible to control the quality of application.

Bioprotective compounds are praised for:

• environmental friendliness;
• slight odor;
• absence of allergens.

It is necessary to apply preparations before the installation of the floor in a wooden house has begun.

Indelible antiseptic

Great option if in the city high humidity. It is also indicated for use in places with high rainfall, temperature fluctuations, in baths and saunas. Working with antiseptics is simple and not too time consuming. Approximate consumption per 1 meter is about 400 grams. Surface application can be achieved after 4 layers. After completion of work, the color of the tree will become pistachio.

Folk methods

Folk remedies for processing lags:

1. Transformer oil. Thanks to deep penetration into the structure of wood and embalming, this agent perfectly protects the material.
2. Resin. From bugs, fungi and decay, birch resin will perfectly help. Its only disadvantage is the vulnerability to fire.
3. Motor oil. Pros - low price good protection. Cons - too much strong smell sometimes interfering for several months.

Before starting work, you should understand the device diagram wooden floors, which consist of 4 "layers":

1. Draft coating.
2. Heat and waterproofing layers.
3. Clean floor.
4. Finishing.

Therefore, when wondering what to make a finishing floor in a wooden house, you must first complete the first 2 stages mentioned above and start working on the finishing floor.

To make a finishing floor yourself, you need to buy milled boards.

Need to know! The finished floor in a wooden house is laid 5 centimeters above the subfloor.

The floor structure of the first floor in a wooden house is being built in 3 stages:

1. Logs are laid - so that the boards can be laid perpendicular to them. The smallest thickness is 25mm.
2. The board must be fixed closer to the wall.
3. Next, you should use a hammer and a bar so that the boards are as close to each other as possible. With the help of a self-tapping screw, fasteners of each log are carried out through the comb.

Important! If there are plans to change the floor in the future, it is necessary to use a simple mounting option - all floorboards should be fixed from above to the logs using self-tapping screws.

Conclusion

Even without reading the instructions for laying a particular coating, you can immediately say that the base on which it will be laid must have such qualities as evenness, strength, dryness and cleanliness. But only how to get this, if the surface before your eyes is clearly far from ideal? It is somewhat difficult to answer the question unambiguously, since different coatings subfloor can meet different requirements.

Floors are a kind of construction, which consists of two types of bases - "finishing" and "rough" and lies on the carrier. For example, between floors, this function is performed by the overlap, or rather, its load-bearing elements. Depending on what material is used for the finishing floor, it can be plank, parquet, tile, concrete, etc. As for the rough one, which lies under the finishing one, this is a multi-layered “pie”, the structure of which determines:

• base design;
• finishing type;
• General requirements.

The device of subfloors in any case, despite the differences, combines the same components:

• underlying - having perceived the load from the coating, evenly distributes it over the base and transfers it to the walls; in this capacity, a floor slab and soil that has undergone the appropriate training can act;
• leveling - sufficiently dense serves to level the surface of the previous layer; at the same stage, the planned slope of the surface is performed, using a screed for this or resorting to other methods;
• intermediate - interlayer - a ligament between the coating and the underlying layers of the floor;
• insulating - provide noise, heat and moisture insulation, where exactly they will be located depends on the functional load of the structure and the method of the device.

The draft is laid from a low-quality board, that is, a slab, a junk board, a picket fence - all that it is possible to lay heat, steam and waterproofing materials on. The point here is sensitivity to humidity and temperature fluctuations, therefore, in order to minimize the deformation of the subsequent finishing one, materials capable of deformation are chosen for the draft. Depending on where it is being built, perform:

• along the beams
• by lags,
• on the ground.

The first ones are arranged over non-insulated undergrounds, and the finishing floors of the first floors should be 80–100 cm above the ground. In this case, the vapor barrier layer is laid between the flooring and the plank floor.

Lag installation

You can also do it yourself. For alignment with this method, a special frame made of wooden bars is used - a log. Similar structures are laid in buildings where the height of the underground is not more than 25 cm. They are based on antiseptic wooden spacers the following sizes: length - 20-25 cm, width - 10 mm, thickness - from 25 mm. When laying on logs, you must follow the following recommendations:

Many people are concerned about the question, is it possible to lay logs without significant damage to quality at a lower cost? Yes, it is possible - the output is in a sparse laying of the lag. In addition, with a low landing, the floor may not be insulated. One of important points in this technology is the choice of flooring. It should be a thin raw board, which is then laid in a diagonal direction. A board thinner than the norm is also suitable for a finishing coating - all the same, the thickness of the base in total will be within the normal range. Moreover, the intersection of the fibers gives the effect of plywood, which eliminates the deflection under the influence of loads.

The device of the subfloor can also be carried out on floor slabs, since the flooring in this case does not require either supports or a log.

On the ground: we provide a basement, insulation

When arranging the floors of the first floors, roughing is often done. Schematically, the generalized design of his “pie” looks like this, starting from the bottom up:

• well-packed bedding river sand– 50–70 mm;
• or crushed stone - 100–120 mm;
• rough concrete screed - 50–70 mm;
• thermal insulation - depending on the region of location;
• finishing screed - minimum thickness - 50 mm, reinforced with mesh, cell - 10x10 cm.

If the house is not basement and on the first floor no special loads are expected, rough screed, as such, can not be done. In these cases, the covered expanded clay is poured with a liquid solution of cement and sand, taken in a ratio of 1: 2, allowed to harden and the subsequent layers continue to be laid, starting with waterproofing.

If it is supposed to lay a warm floor, then it is necessary to provide a gap between the draft and the foundation of 10–20 mm. It is usually filled with foamed polyethylene or polyurethane. This is done in order to prevent cracking of concrete during its thermal expansion.

An important point is also the level of location of the finishing screed.

• With an uninsulated basement, the screed is placed above the level of the top of the basement. Otherwise, a “bridge” of cold will form in this place and the wall will freeze through.
• With an insulated basement, there are no restrictions.

Subfloor insulation

With any technology, roughing and finishing should be located at different levels:

• draft,
• free space,
• finishing.

Thermal protection of the floor is provided by filling this void with insulation. Before laying, the subfloor is additionally treated with an antiseptic, even with the help of used motor oils, and a vapor barrier is laid.

It is not recommended to use this option in a residential building due to the stable specific “aroma”.

Mineral wool is considered the best option for insulation, although it can be replaced

• any other synthetic insulation which is not subject to decay;
• loose expanded clay or;
• hard foam.

Ventilation holes should be provided in the corners.

Waterproofing is an important stage of a warm house

Particular attention should be paid to waterproofing in rooms that are characterized by high humidity, for example, bathrooms. The choice of technologies is quite wide. For example, coating waterproofing using special penetrating compounds, or waterproofing with synthetic components such as polyurethane, epoxy resin and others. Coating polymer-cement waterproofing is considered to be the most effective either with quick-setting elements or with synthetic additives. The latter are especially relevant for houses with unstable foundations.