All new building materials are conquering the market, and now there is no one to surprise with laminate and any interesting tiles. And chipboard is far from the newest material that can be used for flooring. However, now another novelty has appeared on the construction market - this is a moisture-resistant tongue-and-groove chipboard, for the floor it is used as a leveling material. Let's get to know it better and learn how to use it correctly and how to work with it.

Chipboard (abbreviated as chipboard) is a material that has been used in construction for many decades. Furniture is also made from it and used for other purposes. Therefore, it cannot be called absolutely new material. However, conventional chipboard has certain disadvantages that significantly limit the possibilities of its use. Such a plate does not like moisture very much and can swell under its influence, despite its high density and strength. But, since science and progress do not stand still, now they have learned to make such a type of chipboard that is not afraid of water.

The tongue-and-groove moisture-resistant chipboard is a real find for those who want to level the floors quickly, without the formation of gaps between the individual elements and get a base that will not be afraid of water. The difference between such a chipboard from the usual one is that during the manufacture of the raw materials, special components and compositions were added to provide the very same protection from water. For example, it can be paraffin wax emulsions. In general, the production uses all the same woodworking waste (shavings of inexpensive coniferous and deciduous wood species) and resins that connect them together. The plate manufacturing process takes place at high temperature and pressure.

Advice! To distinguish moisture resistant chipboard from ordinary chipboard, it is enough to carefully look at the color. The one that is not afraid of water has a lot of emerald green inclusions over the entire surface. However, if such a chipboard is completely wet and left in water for a long time, then the plate will deteriorate and swell anyway.

Grooved chipboard has a special type of connectors - on one side of such a plate there is a so-called thorn, and on the other - a groove for this thorn. When several slabs are laid in one row, they are joined together and firmly connected precisely thanks to this technology, which bears the simple name "thorn-groove".

On a note! Typically, moisture-resistant chipboard is grooved on all four sides. That is, each of its ends will have either a spike or a groove, which will ensure the connection of not only vertical, but also horizontal rows of plates to each other. This allows you to simplify and speed up the entire installation process.

Such a plate is usually labeled as B, which means "moisture resistant". Chipboard also has classes - P3 and P6, which are suitable for rooms with low or medium humidity levels, respectively. But the P5 class is useful where the humidity is very high. Also, chipboard can be divided into several types depending on the number of layers - single-layer, three-layer or multi-layer. Most often, slabs of the latter type are used, with a large number of layers. In their manufacture, small and large chips are used, while the outer layers consist of smaller components. The dimensions of the slabs are usually as follows - 2440x600 mm or 1830x600 mm. In this case, the thickness of the products is either 16 mm or 22 mm.

Benefits of tongue-and-groove slabs

The pinned chipboard is not in vain in great demand in the construction industry, because it has a lot of advantages. It allows itself to be used for various purposes, including for laying the sub-floor. The advantages of moisture resistant chipboard with tongue and groove are given below.

1. First of all, it is, of course, ability to resist water... If we compare this material with OSB or plywood, then chipboard has maximum moisture resistance. Even if you leave such a stove in water for a day, it will increase in size by a maximum of 10% of its original volume. And it will not even bend or deform.

   

2. Environmental friendliness Is another useful quality. Yes, the board is made using polymer resins, but in general it is not a source of harmful substances when used correctly. Particleboard is allowed to be used even in educational institutions where children study, or in those where there are special sanitary requirements. Particleboard is now recognized as the most environmentally friendly among all similar materials with similar characteristics.
3. Extraordinary strength... Chipboard moisture resistant with a tongue does not break, does not bend, is able to withstand significant pressure without damage to itself. Even the strongest point loads do not care about such a base.

   

4. Ease of installation and processing... If necessary, the slab is easily sawn with a jigsaw or a hacksaw, which is especially useful in cases where it is necessary to repair or replace the coating. Also, the presence of the "thorn-groove" system allows you to reliably connect individual plates into one strong coating - they simply snap together, and between them, with proper installation, even no gaps are formed. Also, you do not need any special tools for work - as a rule, everything you need is always at hand at the zealous owner. In addition, chipboard has a small mass, which simplifies the process of working with it. The weight of one sheet with a thickness of 16 mm does not exceed 15 kg. If a moisture-resistant tongue-and-groove chipboard is used as a subfloor, then there is no need to additionally level the floors with a cement screed, and this is a considerable cost saving.
5. Long service life achieved due to the fact that the chipboard is not afraid of mold and rot.

   

   Chipboard moisture resistant grooved - texture

6. Low cost... Compared to plywood, this material is much more affordable.
7. Great application possibilities... Chipboard grooved is suitable not only for flooring, but also for many other purposes.
8. Heat and sound insulation characteristics at height... Particleboard does an excellent job of trapping heat energy and noise coming from neighbors. She does not release heat from the house, and does not launch sounds into the house.
9. Chipboard makes it possible to get a perfectly flat base without any additional costs... At the same time, there is no need to prepare a special coating for laying the finishing finish.
10. Chipboard is easy to dismantle and install again, which makes it possible to repair the base if necessary without problems and involving specialists.

On a note! It is not necessary to cover the chipboard layer with a finishing material, unless, of course, we are talking about a living space. If there are no special requirements for the interior decoration of the building, then the chipboard can simply be covered with paint, and the floor is ready.

Before deciding to purchase chipboard, you should also familiarize yourself with the shortcomings of this material:

• for installation on a strongly curved surface, chipboard cannot be used;
• the sawn-off ends of the material must be treated with moisture-protecting agents;
• It is undesirable to lay chipboard in houses where people with allergies live, since it still releases formaldehyde, albeit in small doses. Processing of ends with cuts is also necessary to reduce the amount of substances released into the environment that have a negative effect on the body.

Multifunctionality of grooved slabs

Chipboards - both conventional and grooved - can be used in premises for various purposes:

• residential - apartments and houses;
• administrative buildings, offices;
• at enterprises;
• in buildings that are used for public purposes (galleries, shopping malls, etc.).

In apartments, moisture-resistant chipboard is used in any room - in bedrooms and halls, bathrooms, toilets, in the kitchen, etc. Due to its ability to perfectly tolerate the effects of moisture, it sometimes even fits on balconies and loggias, which are not particularly isolated from the effects of weather factors. Chipboard feels great and does not lose its quality even in unheated rooms.

In general, tongue-and-groove chipboard is ideal for arranging a sub-floor. It can easily cope with the task of leveling the base for laying any type of flooring, be it tiles, laminate or parquet. Moisture-resistant chipboard is ideal for leveling walls, it is mounted under the finishing of the room. Various interior partitions are often created from it.

Prices for moisture resistant sheet piled chipboard "QuickDeck"

Chipboard moisture resistant

On a note! Suspended ceilings, despite the popularity of stretch ceilings, have not gone out of fashion. And very interesting ceiling structures are obtained from chipboard, which, by the way, are mounted much easier than drywall.

Another purpose of using such a chipboard is to create formwork when pouring a foundation. It is easy to mount, and removal is as easy as installing.

Table. Types of chipboard moisture resistant.

Type of	Purpose of application
	It is used only for finishing walls for a topcoat or for creating ceiling structures.
	A rough base for the floor is made from it.
	It can be used for any purpose.

The popularity of sheet piling

Not ordinary, but tongue-and-groove slabs have gained particular popularity. It is explained by the presence of the “thorn-groove” system, which allows you to create the most durable and stationary base. Due to the fact that there are no gaps between the slabs, the subfloor is as strong as possible. Especially if the joints of the slabs are glued with a special glue - in this case, the structure will turn out to be as tight as possible, not requiring the installation of waterproofing.

Thanks to the tongue and groove, another goal is achieved - even distribution of the load over the entire floor. And this type of connection is much stronger and more reliable than between sheets of plywood nailed to the floor.

Making the right choice

When choosing a chipboard for a floor, it is important to pay attention to the main characteristics of the material in order to avoid mistakes. Otherwise, the coating will not be strong enough and will quickly collapse.

What to look for:

• bending strength (10-25 MPa);
• tensile strength (0.2-0.5 MPa);
• tendency to swell in liquid (5-30%).

It is also worth choosing thicker slabs - at least three-layer, and better - consisting of five layers. It is important to pay attention to the choice of the manufacturer (it is worth dwelling on the one that has a strong position in the market for many years), as well as the brand of the product. It is worth buying moisture-resistant chipboard for the floor.

Table. Particleboard parameters and cost.

Dimensions (edit)	Cost, rub / sq. M.
1.83m x 0.6m x 12mm	200
2.44 mx 0.6 mx 12 mm	238
2.44 mx 0.9 mx 12 mm	360
1.83m x 0.6m x 16mm	240
2.44 mx 0.6 mx 16 mm	300
1.83 mx 0.6 mx 22 mm	300
2.44 mx 0.6 mx 22 mm	416
2.44 mx 0.9 mx 22 mm	400

Options for laying a tongue-and-groove chipboard floor

Installation of a rough base made of grooved chipboard can be done in two ways - conventional and floating. In the first case, various materials are first laid on the floor to ensure water protection, after which logs are installed, between which insulating material is laid. Only after this is the installation of the plates themselves carried out using glue. Also, the plates are additionally fastened with self-tapping screws.

Chipboard can also be installed in a floating way, when the boards are not fixed to the base. They are simply laid on insulation or a sand cushion and connected to each other. Such floors are considered to be more durable. It turns out a kind of dry screed.

Installation of a floor made of waterproof tongue-and-groove chipboard

For this type of work you will need:

• chipboard plates;
• insulation;
• timber for lags;
• waterproofing material;
• roulette;
• mounting glue for chipboard;
• PVA glue is waterproof;
• construction level;
• screwdriver, puncher;
• self-tapping screws;

Step 1. Chipboards are brought in and placed in the room, where they will then be laid. They are left here for 48 hours in order to adapt to the microclimate of the room. This is especially important if the material was transported in the winter.

Step 2. On a rough base, free of debris, a layer of waterproofing film is laid with an overlap on the walls. Then beams-lags are mounted with a step of no more than 30-40 cm, provided that the plates are used with a thickness of 16 mm. For thicker material, you can set the logs in 60 cm increments.

Step 3. If the step between the lags is greater, a crate of boards is arranged perpendicular to the lags.

Step 4. The distance between the lags is filled with insulation. For example, mineral wool. In this case, the layer of insulation should be 3 cm lower than the estimated level of the subfloor.

Step 5. Assembly glue is applied to the edge of the log. And the tongue of each slab is processed with waterproof PVA D-3. The latter procedure will ensure that the slabs are protected from water.

Step 6. The slab is laid on the logs and pressed so that the previously applied glue is distributed over the entire surface of the log. The plate is mounted with the long side perpendicular to the joists. Along the perimeter of the room, it is fixed with self-tapping screws on the logs. Step - 20 cm.

Attention! It is important to leave a gap of 10 mm between the walls and the slabs.

Step 8. The remnants of the PVA protruding at the junction of two panels are removed with a soft cloth. All slab joints should be located on the joists. If the joint is between the lags, then an additional supporting jumper is made. It is installed perpendicular to the lags.

Step 9. The joints between the boards are additionally hidden with sealants or wood covering mastic.

To reduce waste, large enough slabs can be used to start the assembly of a row. The main thing is that a piece of the slab rests on at least three logs, that is, it covers two spans. You can move on such a floor after 24 hours - that is how much is needed for the glue to harden.

Video - Installation of tongue-and-groove plates

Moisture-resistant chipboard can become an excellent rough (and in certain cases - and finishing) basis for laying the floor finish. Its installation is not difficult, but on the contrary, it is quick and easy, which does not impose special requirements on the master. Therefore, having studied the instructions, almost any person can install such a floor.

Most people do not have as much contact as they do with the floor or with any other part of the house. From this point of view, the surface finish and the structure of the floor itself are very important. What should be the floor? Not only beautiful, but also pleasant for the feet (preferably warm, comfortable and smooth), easy to clean, even, durable, does not deteriorate from moisture, and protects from the cold (if this is the first floor) and from noise (if there is something else below room). Particleboard flooring meets many of these criteria, especially if it is a laminate with a high degree of water resistance. They turn out to be quite strong and even, but they are relatively rarely arranged on their own.

How best to use chipboard for flooring

Most often, chipboard floors are covered with other materials on top. The main (finishing) coating can be made of carpet, linoleum, laminate, parquet boards, polymer coating and even ceramic tiles. That is, the main functions of chipboard are floor leveling, insulation and sound insulation. The most important thing is that the strength of the boards allows you to withstand the weight of the top coat without any problems. But in some cases, such two-layer floors should never be arranged. They are not suitable if regular alternating loads are assumed, the installation of vibrating equipment (for example, washing machines).

Chipboard floor

It is very convenient to use chipboard for arranging a new or leveling an old floor when renovating a room. This is one of the most economical ways to renovate your floor and is recommended when price is critical. They require minimal processing, labor costs are small, and there is not much waste left. They lay them on logs on a rough concrete screed or directly on top of an old floor of boards. The slabs can be fixed to the plank base simply with screws, but for this they must be at least 21 mm thick. If the ends of the slabs are in the form of a "dovetail", then you can further simplify the process of laying them - just glue them to the base of the boards.

When you shouldn't make a chipboard floor

Chipboard flooring should not be done in rooms where there is a constant or regular high level of humidity. Even if epoxy resin is used as a binder in them (and on the basis of formaldehyde resins they are generally not suitable). It is not recommended to arrange a floor of chipboards with an emission class higher than E1 for living quarters, especially bedrooms and children's rooms - it will constantly emit formaldehyde, which is dangerous to human health. Although the official sale of chipboard assumes strict control of its level. It is undesirable for heavy furniture to stand at the joints of two slabs or a large stream of people pass through - such a floor will quickly become unusable.

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If you decide to renovate your home and change the flooring, then you will almost certainly have to level the floor. Concrete and wood surfaces deteriorate and deteriorate over time, so they need to be repaired. The easiest and fastest way to do this is to cover the floor with chipboard sheets. They can perfectly level any surface, insulate it and impart heat and sound insulation properties.

Chipboard for floor is a great choice. Why? It has good density and does not squeeze under stress, the material practically does not conduct heat, and due to its size it effectively levels the surface. Another indisputable plus is that styling does not take much time, and you can lay the topcoat almost immediately.

It is very easy to level the chipboard floor - no special skills are required for this.

Note:with the classic leveling of the floor with a screed, it is possible to lay the topcoat on it only after it has completely dried (20-25 days). Chipboard can be closed immediately - an excellent choice for quick repairs.

Also, the advantages of coverage include its cheapness. By cons - the need to treat the sheets with an antiseptic. Be sure to cover them on both sides with a special mixture that will protect the chipboard from decay.

Laying the sheets will not cause you much difficulty. To carry out the process, you do not need so much:

• the required number of chipboard sheets;
• jigsaw or ordinary saw;
• self-tapping screws for fastening to a wooden floor or dowels for concrete;
• a screwdriver for self-tapping screws or a drill with a victorious drill for dowels;
• hammer;
• grinder.

You can do without a grinder, but in this case, you will have to suffer with cutting the corners of the chipboard. Usually, when laying on an uneven base, small differences appear between the sheets - they must be smoothed out by any means.

How to properly lay chipboard sheets

First of all, you need to purchase the material. Measure the area of ​​your room, taking into account all the niches and threshold, then purchase the material with a small margin. Be sure to fold it indoors so that it accepts room temperature and humidity. Then treat the plates with an antiseptic on all sides.

Note:some masters do not recommend processing the joints, believing that excess moisture comes out through them. But practice shows that it is the joints that swell first if the room is humid or flooded.

After that, you need to draw up the most efficient layout of the sheets. We recommend that you place one piece of large sheets in the center of the room and wherever you will be walking. This will eliminate drops and squeaks. And along the edges of the room, you can safely attach the scraps. The easiest way to make a diagram is by drawing a large-scale floor plan of the room on checkered paper.

Special chipboard panels with a lock facilitate installation

Laying on a wooden surface

After the preparatory work is completed, you should begin to inspect the surface. Remove the skirting board and remove the old floor covering. Examine the boards - if they start to rot, then they will have to be removed and replaced with new ones. The same will have to be done with the lags, otherwise it will not be possible to create a normal floor.

If the base is in good condition, then you can start laying. It is easiest to start with a long wall so you can handle the corners. Lay the first sheet, secure it with several self-tapping screws so that it does not move, and then lay the second one next to it. It is recommended to leave a gap of 2-5 mm between the sheets. After the installation is completed, these gaps are covered with a mixture of PVA and sawdust (chipboard sawdust can be used). It is necessary to dilute the glue with sawdust to a state of thick sour cream and cover up the cracks, carefully stuffing the resulting mixture into them. Such chipboard floor will be very warm and practical - it does not let cold air through from below and retains sounds due to its structure.

Note:a gap of 10-15 mm should also be left around the perimeter of the room to ensure thermal expansion. There is no need to close it up - it will simply be closed on top with a floor covering or baseboard.

Some builders practice coating the slabs with PVA glue around the perimeter for better fastening, but in our opinion, this does not play a special role. Just after the installation is completed, pull all the sheets with self-tapping screws in increments of 30-50 centimeters - this is quite enough for high-quality fixation. If there is a large difference in height between the sheets, then place chips under it - this will level the surface.

In some cases, OSB boards can be used for leveling.

Some of the nuances of styling

If you decide to cover the wood floor with chipboard sheets, then use the following tips:

1. Be sure to treat the base with antiseptics and fire retardants - you can buy them at any hardware store. Even if your floor looks good, don't skimp. Usually, the previously applied composition is enough for 3-5 years.
2. Waterproofing between the subfloor and chipboard is not recommended. Air must circulate freely between the two surfaces.
3. Never close up the sub-floor - leave gaps in the corners and under the radiators. This promotes air circulation and moisture removal from the underground.
4. Don't skimp on self-tapping screws. First, fix sheet 3-4 from different sides so that it does not move, and then move around the perimeter and do not forget to screw the screws in the center of the sheet. Along the perimeter, fasteners are screwed in every 30-40 cm, in the center - every 50 cm.
5. For high-quality alignment, you can buy special plates with a lock. They fit into each other, so there is no height difference between them. The lock is pre-processed with glue or special compound so that it does not rot and collapse.
6. Buy chipboard only in trusted places. Modern sheets are made without the use of formaldehyde and are considered completely safe, but material made in “garages” can be harmful.
7. Some sheets have a high density and self-tapping screws are not included in them. In this case, simply drill smaller holes in the right places, and then drive the fasteners into them.
8. The caps of the self-tapping screws should be recessed into the surface of the material by about 2-3 mm. The resulting pits are sealed with wood putty.
9. A substrate can be laid on top of the surface, which will not only equalize all the differences, but also give it additional sound and thermal insulation properties.
10. Sometimes the sheets are laid on logs or crate. The distance between the lags should not be more than 40 centimeters so that the material does not sag.
11. Insulation can be laid in the intervals between the lags - this will significantly improve the comfort of the room.
12. After the sheets are laid, treat them with varnish or drying oil on top. This will protect them from rotting, fungus or insects. A well-laid chipboard serves for at least 10-15 years.
13. It is not recommended to lay chipboard in rooms with high humidity (baths, toilets, shops).

Laying on a concrete surface

The first step is to assess the condition of your floor. If it is well preserved, then a simple putty is enough - close up cracks and potholes with it. If leveling is necessary, then you will have to fill the screed and wait at least 20 days before it dries. Then the surface is covered with linseed oil in two layers, a vapor barrier is placed on top of it (you can use an ordinary film with an overlap), and then the slabs are laid. They are fastened with dowels - first, a hole is drilled directly through the chipboard, then the chopik and the dowel itself are hammered into it.

Note:the dowels need to be buried in the surface, therefore we recommend that you drill the hole from above with a drill of a larger diameter. The dowel itself is clogged with a nozzle, and the remaining hole is putty.

Seams during installation can be treated with sealant

This option is not bad for quick alignment. But if you want to make high-quality insulation, then it is better to put logs on the base. This is done as follows:

1. The concrete is cleared of dust and debris.
2. Waterproofing is laid on it.
3. Logs are laid out on top with a step of no more than 40 cm. They are attached to the base with anchors and leveled at one level.
4. Insulation is placed in between. You can use cotton wool, penoizol and other types of insulation.
5. On top of the logs and insulation is covered with a vapor barrier. It is necessary to make sure that the vapor barrier does not reach the lag level by 20 mm.
6. Chipboard sheets are laid on top of the logs. They are firmly attached with self-tapping screws in increments of 30-40 cm. The hats are recessed by 2-3 mm, the slots are sealed with a mixture of PVA with sawdust, described above.

On this laying the chipboard on the floor considered complete. The gap around the perimeter is closed with a skirting board after the finishing coat has been laid.

In contact with

In order to renew the old wooden floor or insulate the concrete floor before laying the finishing coating (laminate, linoleum, parquet, etc.), chipboard is laid. Using this procedure, you can make a perfectly flat surface of the subfloor, and the material itself is cheaper than, for example, plywood, not to mention the board.

Do not forget that chipboard is not suitable for laying on surfaces with significant loads (offices, etc.). And it is undesirable to lay it in places with high humidity (bathroom, etc.), because it will deform and collapse from exposure to moisture.

Concrete flooring

Chipboard can be laid on concrete in two ways.
The first method is to put it directly on concrete, in this case, the base should be flat. To do this, you can fill.

The substrate must be dry, free from dust and small debris. Then, sheets cut to size can be laid on it, so that there is a distance of 1 - 1.5 cm between the wall and the sheet.

Before laying, they must be covered with linseed oil or antiseptic. After that, they are attached to the base with dowels. To do this, holes are drilled in the concrete directly through the chipboard. When installing the dowel, we distribute it over the entire surface of the sheet.

Option two - we put it on the logs. In this case, the thermal insulation will be better than when laid on concrete.
Since the air gap serves as an excellent heat insulator, the space can also be filled with insulation. With this method, no screed is required.

It turns out not only financial, but also time saving (screed drying lasts at least 1 month). As a lag, wooden blocks are used.

Chipboard is more fragile than wood, so logs are placed more often than when installing a wooden floor. Work begins with the installation of a lag. The extreme logs are located at a distance of 2 - 3 cm to the walls. The next ones are placed 40 cm apart (no more).

They must be displayed in the same plane, placing them, if necessary, under each wooden wedges. We fix with anchors.

At the next stage of work, if necessary, a heat insulator is placed in the free space. Then we lay the chipboard. The sheet must be cut so as to provide a gap from the wall of 10 - 15 mm, and the joint was made in the center of the log.

This will provide a secure fit. We fix it with nails or on self-tapping screws every 30 cm. The heads of nails (self-tapping screws) must be sunk into the slab so that there are no roughness on the floor.

Now you need to wipe the gaps and crevices at the joints of two sheets, for this you can mix PVA glue and sawdust (this will help to avoid squeaking).

Laying on a wooden floor

To install flooring, it is often necessary to make a fairly flat subfloor (under the laminate, etc.). This is difficult to do on an old wooden floor.

And here we will come to the rescue - chipboard. First, we need to check the integrity of all the boards, we check not only for mechanical damage, but also for fungal damage, mold, we replace damaged boards.

We also check the attachment points of the boards to the logs, including for the absence of a squeak, if necessary, we eliminate the latter and give the fasteners a proper look.

At the end of the preparatory work, we lay the sheets, set them on a level, then fasten them with self-tapping screws to the wooden floor, leave a gap of 10 - 15 mm between the wall and the sheet.

And the last stage is the putty of joints and heads of nails or screws. We process the surface with an emery cloth and cover it with 2 layers of varnish. After the varnish dries,.

Watch the video:

Discussion: 11 comments

Tell me how to properly lay out the chipboard sheets so that they cut less, can there be some form of calculation? And can the joints of the sheets (end) be smeared with glue or silicone?

Hello, Alexander.
In principle, there is no form of calculation, it all depends on the size of the room.
And it is better to coat the joints of the sheets with the old and proven method: mix PVA glue with sawdust.
With the help of such a mixture, you can avoid the appearance of squeaky floors in the future.

Hello, Alexander.
To improve thermal insulation, is it possible to put an insulator with a shiny film under the chipboard on concrete, and lay it with foil on the concrete or chipboard.

Hello Andrey. My name is Pavel.

The foil insulator under the chipboard can of course be placed, it is always placed with foil on the concrete.

Sorry, I looked in the wrong place.
Thanks for the consultation.

Not at all, please contact if that.

HELLO! WHAT POSSIBLE TO USE THE MIXTURE WHEN LAYING CHIPBOARD ON UNEVEN
CONCRETE FLOOR?

Hello Sergey.
If the differences on the concrete floor do not exceed 2 mm per 1 meter, then rubber-based parquet glue can be used.
If the differences are large, then it is better to level the floor.

Good afternoon.
there is an old wooden floor not even covered with hardboard I want to put an insulator with a shiny film and sheet pile chipboard on top. there is an uneven angle to lower the beam problematic house built in 1924 will the chipboard withstand a drop of 3 cm per 1m. chipboard will not burst. I read that they are strong enough that they can fit on the crate 30 * 40. the question is, can the slabs be laid on an uneven floor or should it be leveled?

Hello Mikhail.
It is better to level the floor before laying chipboard, 3 cm is still a lot.
It can be leveled with wood putty. You can make the putty yourself, for this you need to mix PVA glue and small sawdust.

Is it possible to put plastic wrap on the screed under the chipboard?

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The construction or renovation of any building is almost always associated with leveling the surface: floor, ceiling, walls. The best way to do this is a tongue-and-groove, moisture-resistant chipboard, the distinctive features of which are: resistance to environmental conditions, especially to dampness / humidity, as well as convenient groove-joints (tongue-and-groove) for fastening the plates to each other.

Chipboard (or the exact name of Chipboard) with tongue and groove is a building board material made of wood shavings, which has grooves on one side of the slab and projections on the other, so that even one person can easily fasten them together. To increase the moisture resistance of wood, in the production of such boards, wood chips are pressed and impregnated with a special resin. As a result, even immersed in water for a day, such a plate absorbs moisture and swells by only 10%.

Sheets of grooved chipboard

At the same time, in the process of hot pressing, this material acquires high density and strength, therefore tongue-and-groove chipboard is especially often used for leveling and rough finishing of the floor.

To enhance the effect of resistance to environmental conditions, they also produce a laminated moisture-resistant tongue-and-groove chipboard: a special film is applied to the sheets of the 1st grade (without visible surface defects). At the same time, the quality indicators of the product increase many times over.

Advantages

Let's consider the advantages of moisture-resistant tongue-and-groove chipboard in more detail:

• The increased density (820 kg / m3) ensures the rigidity and strength of chipboard structures (can be installed on logs - the special structure of the material allows you to effectively distribute the load over the entire floor surface);
• The process of processing chipboard in production, allows you to achieve a perfectly flat surface of the plate;
• Simplicity and ease of installation, dismantling, replacement of the entire structure or its parts, due to the system of protrusions and grooves, as well as the small size and weight of the plate itself;
• Increased resistance to humidity, dampness, temperature extremes, unfavorable climate, as well as fungi, mold, microorganisms;
• Thermal / noise insulation;
• Low price (in comparison with similar building materials);
• Possibility to reuse dismantled slabs.

disadvantages

Installation of chipboard on logs

In order to exclude undesirable consequences in the future, it is worth carefully considering the disadvantages of chipboards:

• Purely aesthetically, the appearance has little resemblance to wood, therefore it is recommended to use it in a rough finish, as well as for hidden interior work;
• The use of various formaldehyde resins for impregnation can be toxic, therefore, when acquiring a moisture-resistant type of chipboard, you should read the instructions for use: is it allowed to be used in residential premises or for the production of furniture (the manufacturer indicates the amount of harmful substances in the chipboard on the label);
• If the resin content is low, then additional insulation from environmental conditions is required;
• Not suitable for curved surfaces.

Where is used

Leveling the floor under the laminate

The use of moisture-resistant tongue-and-groove chipboard is especially effective for:

• Alignment of walls for finishing (wallpaper, plastic panels, lining made of wood and PVC, laminate, board, etc.); creating interior partitions;
• Leveling the ceiling for finishing, as well as using chipboard instead of drywall to create a false ceiling;
• Leveling the floor for finishing (laminate, parquet, linoleum, etc.), assembly of the subfloor, installation of a "floating" floor;
• Heat / sound insulation of the ceiling, floor, walls.

Sizes, characteristics and prices

The cost of building materials usually depends on their size.

QuickDeck chipboards

Let's give a comparative table on the characteristics and prices for chipboard in Russia using the example of building materials:

Chipboard moisture-resistant tongue-and-groove for QuickDeck floor

Name		sheet size	leaf area	wholesale price		retail price
				rub / m2	rub / sheet	rub / m2	rub / sheet
Quick Deck (E1, P5), 12 mm.	Professional	1830*600*12	1,098	266	292	280	307
		2440*900*12	2,196		584		615
Quick Deck (E1, P5), 16 mm.	Professional	1830*600*16	1,098	295	324	310	340
		2440*600*16	1,464		432		454
	Master	1830*600*16	1,098	365	401	380	417
		2440*600*16	1,464		534		556
	Plus	1200*900*16	1,08	590	637	630	680
Quick Deck (E1, P5), 18 mm.	Professional	1830*600*18	1,098	371	407	390	428
		2440*600*18	1,464		543		571
	Master	1830*600*18	1,098	415	456	435	478
		2440*600*18	1,464		608		637
Quick Deck (E1, P5), 22 mm.	Professional	1830*600*22	1,098	440	483	460	505
		2440*600*22	1,464		644		673
	Master	1830*600*22	1,098	535	587	560	615
		2440*600*22	1,464		783		820
Quick Deck (E1, P5), 38 mm.	Professional	1200*600*38	0,72	840	605	880	634
	Master	1200*600*38	0,72	880	634	920	662

Installation of the subfloor

The subfloor (or dry screed) is the base on which the main flooring will subsequently be mounted. With the help of tongue-and-groove moisture-resistant chipboard boards, the installation of the subfloor can easily be done by hand.

Arrangement of the sub-floor

Below is a detailed description of how to properly lay moisture-resistant tongue-and-groove chipboard and make a sub-floor.

1. Wooden logs are laid on a concrete base with gaps between them, depending on the thickness of the chipboard sheet (30-40 cm with a thickness of 16 mm and 40-60 cm with a thickness of 22 mm). If the floor is uneven, then all the gaps are filled with sand or slag. Also, a gap of 2 cm should be left near the walls;
2. If additional thermal insulation is needed (a private house or an apartment on the ground floor, etc.), then foam plastic or any other insulation is placed between the logs, while a vapor / waterproofing film is placed on the concrete under the bars;
3. The building level checks the evenness of laying and the horizontal level of the floors. Further, the floor surface is covered with special plastic or paper to prevent squeaking during walking and further operation;
4. Chipboard sheets are stacked starting from the far corner of the room. Having laid the first sheet, it is fixed with self-tapping screws - first the central part, and then - with a fastener pitch of about 20 cm. The self-tapping screws are screwed deeply - the caps must be recessed into the plate at least a millimeter;
5. For better sealing of joints, joints of grooves-fasteners are coated with PVA glue or latex construction mastic;
6. Then, the next one is tightly pressed to the first sheet. Usually, the chipboard comes with special bars for fitting, with the same fasteners so as not to damage the base material. Thus, all sheets are fitted and fastened (it is desirable that the seam passes over the logs). If the subfloor is made for a narrow corridor, then a wooden frame made of beams should be located across the movement;
7. If vertical irregularities appear, then they must be cleaned and sanded. After that, you can lay parquet, laminate, or make any other fine floor finish.

Stacking sheets

Laying "floating floor"

Floating flooring is the best way to finish floors with severe unevenness or other gross surface irregularities.

Moisture-resistant tongue-and-groove chipboard is laid on the floor using the following technology:

1. If the main floor is concrete, then, first, a vapor barrier film is placed on it, if the base is wooden, then glassine;
2. Further, expanded clay or slag is poured, and leveled;
3. Construction paper is placed on expanded clay;
4. Wedges are installed near the wall from which the installation begins;
5. Just as when assembling a sub-floor, the installation of chipboard slabs goes "on itself" - from the far wall; connections are fixed with PVA glue or latex mastic;
6. There should be a gap of 1 cm between the wall and the sheets.

Leveling the concrete floor

Wall and ceiling mounting

A moisture-resistant tongue-and-groove chipboard is mounted on the wall using self-tapping screws at intervals of 300-400 mm, while no additional lathing is required. If fastened with nails, then they are hammered in at an angle of 45 degrees from the edge to the middle.