The main type of drywall fixing is a frame structure that is attached to the surface to be finished. In fact, this is the construction of a new frame-type wall. Since drywall has a certain mass, the requirements for the crate have always been stringent. More recently, it was built from wooden bars (slats), but this is already you in the past, because they were replaced by better materials - metal profiles.

Although you must pay tribute, reiki is sometimes still used today, but extremely rarely. Why did this happen? Firstly, wood has the ability to change its size under the influence of changes in humidity and temperature. Over time, the bars dry out, crack, become covered with a wormhole and mold. In humid rooms, they quickly warp.

Photo: frame for drywall metal profile

All this is absent in the metal profile, therefore it is this material that has now become the basis for the construction of a frame for drywall.

Types of profiles for a frame for drywall

Manufacturers offer several types of profiles, each with its own purpose.

Different forms of profiles for drywall

Add to profile products straight suspensions, with the help of which the ceiling and rack profiles are attached respectively to the walls and ceiling. It is with their help that a suspended structure can be erected on the ceiling.

And one more element - crab... This is a special fastener that helps to connect four connected profiles at one point, forming a cross.

Photo: ordinary drywall screws

And the last one is self-tapping screws... There are several types of them, and each has its own purpose. If the base of the wall is wooden, then ordinary self-tapping screws of 6x70 or 6x80 mm are used. If the surfaces are concrete, it is best to use metal dowels or self-tapping screws with plastic dowels.

To connect the profiles to each other, the so-called self-tapping bugs are used (other names are often found - fleas or seeds).

Installation of a frame for drywall

If, in terms of repair work, the task is to finish both the walls and the ceiling with plasterboard, then you need to start from the ceiling. The fact is that this surface rarely has even corners (90 °). And if you start the alignment from the walls, then it will be very difficult to fit the plasterboard panels to the resulting dimensions of the ceiling. The end result will be a fairly large amount of waste.

Installation of the frame on the ceiling

First of all, you need to determine the lowest angle in the room. To do this, you need a tape measure, which measures the distance from floor to ceiling in each corner. Compare the results, the smallest size is what you need. Please note that this method can be taken as a basis if the floor has already been leveled.

Ceiling markings for plasterboard

So, in the selected corner, a laser level is installed near the ceiling. The installation site is determined by the height of the future suspended structure. The light beams of the device will show the contour located in the horizontal plane, it is on it that the PNP profiles must be installed.

Now pay attention to one recommendation from a specialist. Usually rooms are rectangular in shape, the long side of which is perpendicular to the wall where the window is located. It is in this direction that it is necessary to lay drywall sheets. If the room is square, then place the panels towards the window anyway.

So now we need to install the PCB profiles. For this, parallel lines are drawn. They are laid from the long wall every 60 cm. Why this size? The width of the drywall is 120 cm, three profiles are installed under each sheet: one in the middle, two at the edges. But keep in mind that two adjacent panels will be mounted on one profile. That is, the lines on the ceiling are the middle of the profile.

Plasterboard single-level ceiling frame

Along these lines, straight suspensions must be installed every 30-40 cm. When this operation is completed, you can install the profiles themselves, which with their ends will rest on the PNP guides. There they are attached with flea beetles.

The profiles will bend under their own weight, therefore, between the guides of the length of the wall, it is necessary to pull several rows of strong thread, which will create a horizontal plane. Along it, it will be necessary to align the PP profiles and fix them to the suspensions. By the way, the tendrils of the suspensions protruding beyond the profile simply bend up.

Frame for a two-level suspended ceiling

To stiffen the structure, it is necessary to install cross-members cut from PP. Since the distance between the profiles is the same (60 cm), the size is known. The installation of crossbars is carried out along the room with an interval of 30 to 60 cm in 10 cm increments. This is where the crab is used. It is installed on top of the PP at the junction with the crossbars. This is a cruciform product with paws on the sides. They are just a good place for PPs. All the same fleas are used for fastening.

Full instructions on how to make a drywall ceiling on your own,.

Installation of the frame on the wall

The installation of the frame begins with determining where the wall itself is inclined. If it "looks" with its upper edge into the room, then the installation of the guide (PN) should be started from the ceiling. From it, using a plumb line, the installation site of the floor profile is determined. If it "looks" outward, then the floor element is installed first. Then the place on the ceiling is determined by a plumb line.

Red dotted line - how you can not divide the sheets

Marking option if there is a narrow strip

If the height of the ceiling is greater than the length of the sheet, the sheets are fastened apart

So, two profiles are already installed (on the ceiling and on the floor). Now it's up to the rack profiles. First, two extreme elements are mounted, they are fixed in the PN and to the adjacent walls. Then every 60 cm. It is easy to do this: mark on the ceiling guide and drop the points onto the floor element with a plumb line, now the two points can be connected to each other.

On the lines obtained, straight suspensions must be installed every 50-60 cm. Substations will be attached to them, which will be installed in the guides with their ends. In order for all the profiles to be in the same vertical plane, it is necessary to pull a strong thread between the two extreme elements in several rows (4-5). Now each profile is exposed along them and attached to the suspensions.

If for wall decoration it is decided to choose drywall with a high degree of strength, which could bear high loads (its thickness varies within 16-24 mm), then it is recommended to install three profiles for each sheet. This means that you will have to install, starting from the edge (from the wall), every 120 cm, two docked vertical rack profiles.

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

The widespread use of drywall as a finishing material is due not only to its outstanding technical characteristics, but also to a wide range of works performed. With the help of drywall, you can not only level the walls and ceilings, but also transform the room, creating a variety of partitions, niches or arches. The key to a successfully completed work is a high-quality and correctly assembled frame for drywall. It is easy to install it even with your own hands.

Materials used for mounting the frame

A person who for the first time decided to build a frame out of his own hands may well be confused by the various designations of profiles that can be found in different sources, as well as a large assortment of fastening accessories offered by the building materials market. You should not be afraid here: it is not so difficult to figure out the purpose of the metal profiles, and of the whole variety of fasteners for installation, only a small part will be required.

Types of metal profiles:

• Guides. In the marking they have the designation UD or PN. The foundation of the entire structure is laid, it is with them that the construction of the frame begins.
• Rack. They are designated by combinations of CW or PS. They are inserted into the guides and form vertical posts, to which the drywall sheets are attached when leveling the walls.
• Ceiling. To such metal profiles, which have the abbreviation CD or PP, a drywall sheet is attached when leveling the ceiling. They are inserted into special ceiling guides, which have a combination of the letters UD or PNP in the designation.
• There are also arched and corner profile models. The need for their use is determined by the nature of the structure being erected.

To fix the frame on a wall or ceiling, as well as to fasten its elements together, several types of fasteners are used.

1. To lengthen the metal profile to the desired size, a simple connector is used, and to reinforce the intersection of the profiles, its cruciform version, called the "crab", is useful. When leveling the ceiling, a two-level "crab" is used to securely fix the profile of the lower level to the ceiling.
2. Additional fastening to the ceiling or wall is provided by direct or anchor suspensions. With their help, all structural elements are displayed in one common plane.
3. Fastening of suspensions and guide profiles is carried out using dowels with a diameter of 6 mm, the profiles are fastened together with self-tapping screws. Installation of drywall on the installed frame is performed using self-tapping screws with a diameter of 3.5 and a length of 25 mm. It is preferable to use galvanized steel hardware.

Assembling the ceiling frame

Nuances of markup

Marking is one of the most important stages in the construction of a frame structure. In order to choose the right distance between it and the ceiling, you should decide in advance on the height of the luminaires built into the ceiling. This distance is set aside from the lowest point of the ceiling, and then using a level, the locations of installation of the ceiling guide profiles are marked along the entire perimeter of the room.

Ceiling profiles are marked at a distance of 600 mm from each other. Thus, having completed the markup with our own hands, we end up with a grid of squares with a side of 60 cm on the ceiling.

Before installing the frame with your own hands, you should finish the work with communications, which will subsequently be located behind the drywall. It will be correct to stretch all the wires in advance, install sockets and other elements. It is better to leave the wiring under the lamps with a margin of 10-15 cm, so it will be much more convenient to connect them.

Installation progress

• Using the applied markings, a ceiling guide profile is mounted to the walls around the entire perimeter of the room.
• In the middle of the side of each marked square, a hole is drilled for a dowel and a straight suspension is installed. Thus, we will get a step of additional fastenings of the metal profile to the ceiling with a size of 600 mm.

In the process of marking the frame for both the ceiling and walls, it is necessary to take into account a prerequisite: all joints of drywall sheets must be located on the profile.

• We insert ceiling profiles into PNP profiles and fix them at the junction with self-tapping screws.

Since the geometry of rooms in apartments often leaves much to be desired, it is better to measure the length of each element separately, reducing the distance between the walls by 2-3 cm.

• Having cut transverse jumpers 60 cm long with a grinder or metal scissors, we also fasten them with self-tapping screws. The cruciform joints of metal profiles are reinforced with a "crab".
• The resulting frame with the help of suspensions is displayed in a single plane. For this, a level is applied to each profile, and after the necessary adjustment, the position of the ceiling profile is fixed using suspensions. Their antennae are bent with pliers and fastened with self-tapping screws to the profile at the required distance from the ceiling.

How to make a frame for drywall when leveling a wall? The general principles remain unchanged, only some of the nuances change.

• Having decided on the distance between the wall and the structure being erected, having completed all the communications, a line is drawn on the ceiling along which the guide profile will be attached. Using a plumb line, an identical line is reproduced on the floor.
• Having fixed the guide profiles, they proceed to the marking of the horizontal racks. They should be spaced 600 mm apart so that each drywall sheet is secured to three uprights. One will be located in the middle of the sheet, and on the two outer ones there will be a joint with other sheets.

• After marking and installing direct suspensions along it, the horizontal racks are inserted into the guides and fixed with self-tapping screws.
• The horizontal cross members are mounted in the same way. After attaching them, the entire structure is leveled into one plane, for which a level and straight suspensions are again used. A crab connector is applied to the crossing points of the metal profiles.

Installation is much more complicated if there are windows on the wall to be leveled. In this case, first of all, horizontal racks are attached on both sides of the window, and further marking of the profiles with a step of 60 cm is carried out from them.

Even a child today knows what drywall is and how to work with it correctly. This material is simple, but at the same time reliable and durable, and that is why it is so popular. But if, as a rule, there are no problems with fastening the sheets, then the installation of a frame for drywall on a wall often causes certain difficulties for those who are going to do repairs with their own hands.

In this article, we will tell you in detail how to cope with this seemingly difficult task, and by the end of the material, you will understand that your fears have been greatly exaggerated.

Preparatory work

Installation of a drywall frame on the walls, like any other repair, begins with preparation. This concerns both surface preparation and tools and everything necessary.

Professional finishers know that sometimes finding a pencil or tape measure can take much longer than the actual work. In addition, there is a high probability of shattering your nervous system in the process of such searches.

To prevent this from happening, we will give you a list of everything you may need in order to make a frame for a drywall wall quickly and without much fuss:

• Pencil and tape measure... The first tool to always have at hand. during the installation process, we will need it repeatedly, so we put it in the most conspicuous place, or even better in a clothes pocket.
• Building level. Without this tool, the manufacture of a wall frame for drywall is simply impossible. Unless, of course, you plan to make everything crooked and untidy. Do not plan, then prepare several levels of different lengths and with different eyes at once.
• Hammer. Needless to say, no repair is complete without this tool. Ideally, there will be several different sizes of hammers, from small boot to medium sizes.

• Perforator and drill to it. In some cases, when, for example, the walls are built of wood or aerated concrete, you can use a simple drill that will perfectly cope with these materials. If your walls are built of bricks, then you simply cannot do without a hammer drill.
• Screwdriver... In principle, you can replace it with the same drill, but it is not so convenient to work with it, moreover, the screwdrivers operate on batteries, which means that the wires will not interfere with you. Also, you will need a bit for the screwdriver - a nozzle in the form of a short Phillips screwdriver, with which the screws are tightened.

So, the whole tool is assembled, and is at hand, and it's time to prepare all the necessary materials. We will not give the quantity, since the calculation is always carried out individually, therefore we will only give a list.

Advice! Ideally, use a modern laser level for marking, which will not only simplify the work, but also significantly speed up. Of course, this pleasure is not cheap, but you can look for a company in your city that rents out construction tools. If you pay a little, it will be much easier to work.

So, here is a list of materials that we need in order to build a frame on a wall for drywall:

• Plastic dowels... Always take them with a margin, since it is almost impossible to calculate the exact amount.
• Plumb lines... Metal plates with holes that keep the rails away from the walls.
• Crabs. Fasteners that fix the guides at their intersection with each other.

Well, and finally, the very material from which the frame will be caught.

There are three options to choose from, each of which has its own characteristics:

1. Wooden block. The cheapest and most short-lived material. It is believed that drywall walls on a wooden frame serve much less, and this is due to the characteristics of wood, which absorbs moisture and can deform over time.

1. Metallic profile. What is called - cheap and cheerful. Such a frame has only one significant limitation - it cannot be used in rooms with high humidity. Metal rusts quickly, and unpleasant yellow spots can eventually appear on the surface of the finish, especially if you use paint or natural wallpaper.
2. Galvanized profile. The most expensive, but at the same time high-quality material, the price of which is fully justified, it can be used in any room. The zinc coating prevents the metal from rusting, and such a frame lasts much longer.

Which of these materials to choose is up to you, but we recommend not to save on this, and immediately take a profile with a galvanized coating, so that in a couple of years you will not face problems that are very difficult, and sometimes impossible to solve without radical intervention. So, the materials have been selected, the tools have been prepared, which means that we can proceed to the first stage of our work.

Marking

Before you make a frame for drywall on the wall, this very wall must be marked. The quality of the entire finish as a whole directly depends on how smoothly and efficiently the markings will be applied, so we have patience, take a pencil and a tape measure in our hands and go!

So, first of all we need to catch the level of the walls. To do this, take a tape measure, and retreat outward from the corner a few centimeters. Now, we connect these two marks on the floor. At this point, the main fastening profile will pass.

Now, the same thing needs to be built on the ceiling. We got two lines that should run strictly parallel to each other.

Now, we retreat from one of the walls exactly 2050 millimeters. This is the standard size of the drywall sheet, and it is necessary that its edge lies exactly in the middle of one of the frame profiles.

Further, we retreat the same distance, and so on until the wall ends. We now have places where the guides will be mandatory, but the distance is too large, so we break it into sections of about 40-60 centimeters. This is quite enough so that the drywall sheet does not sag, and it was difficult to break it.

All is ready. We now have a row of vertical stripes, but we need to define where the plumb lines will be attached. To do this, we simply divide the height of the wall in half, and put a mark in this place. Now, we divide each segment in half, and so on until the distance between the nearest points approaches the mark of 30-60 centimeters.

Important! Plasterboard walls, the frame of which was assembled without strict adherence to the level, may subsequently turn out to be very crooked. Drywall will easily bend to the desired position, but it will be in constant tension, and sooner or later it will burst. That is why one should not be negligent about this seemingly insignificant stage of finishing.

At these points, we will not only have plumb lines installed, but also horizontal guides, so it is so important to strictly observe the level at all stages of the wall marking.

We mount the frame

The next step is the dirtiest and loudest stage, and if you do not want to become enemies with your neighbors, do not do this work early in the morning, late in the evening or on weekends.

So, take a puncher in our hands, and drill holes of the required depth at all the marking points that we have set. Here it is important to accurately catch the drilling depth, since if it is insufficient, then the dowel simply will not fix the plumb line, and pulling it out of the wall will be very, very problematic.

Now, with the help of dowels, we attach the plumb lines, and bend their edges perpendicular to the wall. That's it, the preparatory work is over, and you can proceed to fastening the guides.

First of all, we fix the main profiles to the floor and ceiling. The rest of the lathing elements will be inserted into them, therefore, the stronger the fasteners, the better.

Insert the guides into the fixed profiles, and align them to the vertical level. This stage must be taken very seriously, otherwise we will have to trim each sheet of drywall later, and this is a very long task that can be completely avoided.

The profile set at the level is fixed with self-tapping screws to the pre-bent plumb lines. And we repeat this procedure with all the crate segments.

Our plasterboard frame walls are almost ready, all that remains is to expose the horizontal elements. To do this, simply attach the profile to the crate that we already have, and mark the points of contact with a pencil. Further, according to the marks, we make cuts with scissors for metal, and fasten the profiles, guided by the level readings.

That's basically all, the frame is ready, and all that remains is to fix the drywall and do the main finishing, but this is already a topic for a separate article.

And in conclusion

Well, so we figured out how to make a wall frame for drywall. As you can see, there is nothing difficult or impossible here. The process is more like assembling a children's designer, only the parts are larger and heavier.

The most important thing is not to be afraid to take up work, even if you do not have the relevant experience, and our site will be happy to answer any questions that you may have in the process. Frameless installation of drywall on the walls is not difficult, but responsible. Look at the photo and you can get to work.

Manufacturing of frames for drywall, their types and elements, installation of metal and wooden structures for the installation of partitions and wall cladding.

The content of the article:

The drywall frame is the load-bearing base of the cladding. Plasterboard sheets, fixed on it, allow you to mask not only the irregularities of the walls, but also to implement many design ideas for decorating the premises. In addition, the structure of the frame makes it possible to secretly carry out engineering communications, as well as to perform heat and sound insulation of walls or partitions made with it. Today we will look at how to make a drywall frame yourself.

The main types of frames for drywall

Rigid wall frames are made of galvanized metal profiles or wooden beams. Metal profiles are of several types:

• Guide profiles UW or PN... Their cross section is U-shaped. Its standard height is 40 mm, width is 50, 75 or 100 mm. Such profiles serve as a kind of rail for attaching the rest of the frame elements in them.
• Rack profiles CW (PS)... They also have a U-shaped section and are intended to form a wall frame, are installed vertically in the UW guide profiles and have transverse dimensions of 50x50, 50x75 and 50x100 mm.
• Ceiling profiles CD (PP)... They have a U-shaped cross-section of 60x27 mm and are used as the main elements of ceiling and wall frames.
• Guide profiles UD... They are used for fixing CD ceiling profiles and have dimensions 28x27 mm.
• UA profiles... They are a modified version of the CW profile, they have greater rigidity due to the thickened walls.
• Corner profiles UP... These are perforated corners used to strengthen and align the joints of adjacent walls.

All guide profiles "U" have smooth walls, and the support profiles "C" are ribbed, which gives them greater bending strength. Various profile extenders, straight suspensions, anchor clamps, dowels and self-tapping screws are used to connect the frame elements for drywall from a metal profile to each other or to attach them to the base. The standard length of metal profiles is 4 or 3 m.

Wooden wall frames are made of timber. The cross-section of their racks should not be less than 40x70 mm, and of horizontal elements - 30x50 mm. For sawn timber, coniferous wood is used, its moisture content should not be higher than 15%. Before installation, the timber is impregnated with antiseptics and fire retardants to protect the frame from insects and accidental fire.

Installation of a metal frame for drywall

Before installing a plasterboard partition of any thickness, the adjoining walls must be plastered and the floor covered with a leveling screed.

Materials and tools for a metal frame for drywall

For the manufacture of a simple partition up to 100 mm thick, the UW and CW profiles are sufficient. If a wall of greater thickness is required with a gasket in its cavity of utilities, profiles UD and CD should be used. In this case, on each side of the wall, it will be necessary to install parallel guides, located at the required distance from each other.

To attach the profiles to each other in the frame, you will need straight suspensions and small screws of the "flea" type with tips in the form of a drill. To fasten the entire structure to the adjacent walls, you will need plastic dowels and impact screws.

The finished frame will be sheathed with plasterboard sheets 12.5 mm thick, which should have wide beveled chamfers at the edges and gray or green. The usual wall gypsum board is gray, moisture resistant, which can be used in the bathroom or in the kitchen - green. The sheets are fastened to the frame with self-tapping screws for metal 3.5x35 mm, which have piercing tips and countersunk heads. You need to buy them too.

To strengthen the doorway in the frame, you need an AU profile or a wooden beam. In addition, you should stock up on sealing tape, which serves as insulation of the partition from the walls, ceiling and floor, mineral wool to fill the cavity of the partition and a metal corner to decorate the slopes of door or window openings.

The set of tools intended for the manufacture of a metal frame for drywall should include: a building level 120 or 80 cm long, a tape measure, as a rule, a cord, a plumb line, metal scissors, a hammer drill, a drill with a reverse or a screwdriver.

Manufacturing of a metal frame for a partition

As an example, consider the formation of a partition frame from CW and UW profiles. First, the location of the future structure should be marked on the floor. Here you need to take into account the following points:

1. It is rare when the walls of rooms are joined at perfectly right angles. This is especially true for older buildings. At different ends of opposite walls, the distances between them can vary by several centimeters. This must be taken into account when marking a new partition or wall and bind not to one structure, but to both, located parallel to each other. In this case, all distances should be averaged, thereby avoiding obtaining the visual curvature of the resulting room.
2. When marking the wall line, it must be borne in mind that it is necessary as a guide for the installation of the guide profile. Therefore, in fact, the partition will be slightly "shifted" by the distance of the thickness of the plasterboard sheathing and its finishing layers. After drawing the line of the planned partition on the floor, it must be projected onto the ceiling. This is done using a plumb line. If you use a laser level instead, the task will be much easier. After receiving two lines, one on the ceiling and the other on the floor, their ends must be connected along the walls and check the verticality of the proposed partition with a building level.

If there is a positive result of this check on the ceiling and floor along the contour lines of the partition, the UW guides should be fixed. Their installation must be carried out using a sealing strip, which is laid between the profile and the base surface. The profiles are fastened along the edges and every 0.5 m using dowels and impact screws.

After that, on the edges of the rails, you should fix the racks from the CW profile. First, with two support profiles, you need to form a doorway at the selected place of the future partition. It is most convenient to start attaching the racks from the lower rail, and then thread them into the upper UW profile, leveling them in a strictly vertical position. Only then can the support posts be fixed with self-tapping screws in the upper rail. All racks are located face-to-face towards the opening.

The supporting profiles of window or door openings must be reinforced with wooden beams. To do this, you need to insert them inside the racks and fix them with self-tapping screws. The cross-section of the bars must correspond to the width of the profiles. AU profiles can be used as an alternative to sawn timber.

The next stage of work is the installation of support profiles along the entire length of the future partition between the upper and lower guide. The first CW profile should be installed at a distance of 55 cm from the adjacent wall, and all others - no more than 60 cm from each other. Distances are measured from the center of each post. Verification of their vertical position is mandatory.

In order to form the horizontal upper part of the doorway or the horizontal sections of the windows in the frame, the UW guide profile should be used. You will need a piece of it 30 cm longer than the width of the opening. First, two marks should be applied to the profile shelves, located at a distance of 15 cm from each of its edges. After that, you need to cut along the marks of the profile shelves at an angle of 45 degrees to its base. Then the edges of the workpiece should be bent until a U-shaped element is obtained.

The workpiece obtained in this way must be put on the side posts of the opening with the bent edges and raised to the desired height. After that, it remains only to fix this element in the opening, screwing its edges with self-tapping screws to the side support profiles. The window openings of the frame are formed by a similar method.

Now the resulting metal structure, consisting of guides, support profiles and openings, can be sheathed with plasterboard sheets.

Making a metal frame for leveling walls

This work requires almost the same materials and tools. When constructing a frame for plasterboard for cladding an existing wall on its irregularities in terms of removing them, you do not need to pay special attention. The magnitude of the largest difference on the surface of the structure should simply be taken into account when marking the location of the guide profiles. In this case, a certain indent must be made from the wall, which is necessary for placing communication systems and thermal insulation material behind the future cladding.

After determining this distance on the floor, it is necessary to draw a line of the frame boundary parallel to the existing wall and project the markings onto the ceiling surface using a plumb line or a laser level, as in the previous case. Then, along the marking lines, you need to fix the guide profiles on the floor and ceiling using dowels and self-tapping screws with a fastener pitch of no more than 1 m.

After that, it is necessary to determine the location of direct suspensions on the wall, which should fix the position of each rack-mount profile of the future frame. The uprights should be installed in such a way that the joints of the sheets fall in the middle of the profiles. Therefore, you need to navigate here by the width of the drywall used. In any case, the distance between intermediate posts should not exceed 1 m.

It is recommended that the lines of the posts be applied to the wall. After that, focusing on the markings, several straight hangers should be installed for each rack. They are attached to the wall using a punch, hammer, dowels and self-tapping screws.

At the final stage of manufacturing a frame for drywall, it is necessary to install rack profiles on the wall. To do this, their ends should be brought into the cavities of the guides of the lower and upper profiles. Then they must be set one by one in a strictly vertical position using a building level and fixed in the guides with self-tapping screws of the "bug" type.

The final fastening of the racks and ensuring the rigidity of the frame structure is carried out using straight hangers fixed to the wall, to which each vertical profile is screwed with screws in several places along the entire height.

The resulting frame can be additionally reinforced with jumpers made from pieces of rack-mount profiles. To do this, you will need to use metal scissors to make blanks of the required size and fasten them to the racks using small self-tapping screws.

Installing a wooden frame under drywall

To make a wooden frame for drywall, you will need a hacksaw or a saw, a drill, metal corners, wood screws, a level, mounting dowels, a screwdriver and a screwdriver.

Making a wooden frame for a partition

The wooden frame of the partition should be made according to a previously prepared drawing, which should indicate all the dimensions and locations of the openings. The assembly of the structure must begin with the installation of the bars of the upper and lower strapping. They are fastened to the ceiling and floor using dowels and self-tapping screws.

After mounting the strapping, vertical struts are attached to it, their correct position should be controlled by a level. Self-tapping screws for wood are used as fasteners.

Then, between the vertical wooden posts, the supporting horizontal rails should be fixed. Their cross-section can be smaller than that of the racks, but not less than 30x50 mm.

After one side of the partition is ready and sheathed with gypsum board, it is necessary to lay insulation, electrical wiring in a corrugated sleeve or lay pipes as necessary. Insulation in this case plays the role of a sound insulating material. After filling the cavity of the partition, it should be sheathed with gypsum board on the other side.

Making a wooden frame for wall cladding

Installation of such a frame is advisable if the height of the walls exceeds 3 m or they have a poor-quality plaster layer that forms surface irregularities.

First of all, it is necessary to mark the wall and identify its defective places. After that, in accordance with the measurements, you need to install the crate. Its installation should begin with the installation of a horizontal bar on the floor. Then vertical slats are attached to it, retreating 10 mm from the edges of the sheathing. The step between the slats should be 600 mm.

After checking the vertical position of the rails with a building level on the ceiling, you need to fix the second horizontal beam and attach the free ends of the racks to it. If the floor is uneven, for the correct laying of the horizontal bar, you can put pieces of slats or chipboard trimmings under it.

In order not to make cuts in the gypsum board when constructing a frame near window or door openings, the vertical racks can be moved to the desired distance.

A wooden frame for plasterboard wall cladding can be assembled more easily if you perform this procedure on the floor. From the supporting horizontal and vertical beams, you need to assemble a frame, the size of which will correspond to the size of the wall. Then, wooden auxiliary beams and slats should be installed in the frame in increments of 60 cm.

The thermal insulation must be fixed on the wall and closed with a frame, which is attached with screws and dowels. After installing the frame for drywall, it can be sheathed with sheets.

How to make a frame for drywall - look at the video:

The GKL frame mount, although it makes it easy to level the walls and carry out hidden communications, at the same time reduces the size of the premises. This should be taken into account by homeowners with a small usable area. But in general, the choice is yours. Good luck!

Without a properly assembled frame, drywall will not last long. The strength and reliability of walls, ceilings, arches, shelves and other structures made of gypsum plasterboard, which are so beloved by professional builders and amateurs, depend on the frame.

To prevent repairs from being a banal waste of money, competent implementation of the recommendations and advice of the masters for installing the frame is required.

Today, two methods of installing drywall using a frame are used - on a wooden beam and a metal profile. Each of them with advantages and disadvantages, but with the right approach, using both methods, they achieve the desired end result.

Repair using gypsum plasterboard

The beam is chosen for work when there is an excess of good quality wood. Although it is believed that the frame made of it is cheaper, in reality this is not entirely true - wood becomes more expensive every year.

A bar as a material for a frame for drywall is used in rooms with moderate humidity and normal temperature conditions. It is dried well, and the installation begins after treatment with an antiseptic. In this regard, the profile is more profitable: it does not rot, it will not be beaten with a shashel, it is not afraid of temperature changes, it does not get wet, does not crack and does not dry out.

A sheet of drywall on a timber frame holds on tightly, since the screws cling to the tree with all the threads and sit more tightly. The profile version loses a little in this regard, but the issue is solved by more frequent installation of self-tapping screws.

The frame made of a bar is environmentally friendly, but made of a metal profile is durable, it is easier to install, and the material for it is bought in any store. At the same time, the elements of frame structures are offered in assortment. You don't have to invent your own - everything is standard.

Structural tools

When a frame of wooden slats is planned, the following tools are prepared:

• Saw.
• Jigsaw.
• Hammer.
• Screws and nails.
• Reiki - timber.
• Metal corner.

Profile types

If the frame is made of a profile, then they find scissors or a hacksaw for metal. In any case, you cannot do without a level, a plumb line, and a rule. In addition, you will need:

• Screwdriver;
• Dowels;
• Drill or hammer drill;
• Self-tapping screws for metal;
• Sealing tape;
• Pencil or marker;
• Connectors of different types;
• Suspensions;
• Profiles.

Installation of a wooden frame under the gypsum board

The cross-section of the timber must be at least 40 by 70 mm - for vertical and support rails and 30 by 50 mm - for horizontal ones. The moisture content of the tree does not exceed 15%. The preferred choice of material is coniferous wood.

Work begins with a sketch of a diagram showing the location of door and window openings. Then the required number of sheets of drywall is counted, after which they proceed to the installation of the support bars of the sheathing to the floor and ceiling.

Installation is started from the floor using dowels or nails if the house is wooden. The next stage is the installation of vertical struts, between which horizontal ones are then mounted. Vertical racks are installed in 60 cm increments.

On top of the vertical racks, horizontal ones are nailed, then again vertical ones, and so on. Horizontal ones are also set with a step of 60 cm.Each row of the crate is checked for vertical and plane level. Level the position of the lower beam on the floor by placing pieces of wood. The correct position of the wall plane is also adjusted.

It is easier to immediately assemble the frame directly on the floor of the room, if its size allows. In this case, its width should be 1 cm less than the actual width of the wall.

Wooden frame for gypsum board

Elements of the metal frame

The basis is profiles - guides (UD) and carriers (CD). The first are needed to create the outline of the frame for drywall. They play the role of a "foundation" into which the bearing profile is inserted and fastened, where the gypsum board already lies.

The guide profile is standard with a width of 2.5 cm and a length of 3 meters. It is important to pay attention to its thickness - the strength of the frame depends on it. The thicker one is suitable for walls, and the thinner one is suitable for the ceiling. The support profile has a wide shelf (6 cm), a depth of 2.5 cm and a length of 3 or 4 meters. It is produced from sheet metal of different thickness, which also affects the strength of the structures under construction.

The rack profile is used only for the wall frame. Ceiling, corner and arched profiles are used in the construction of appropriate plasterboard structures. Arched with cutouts for easy bending. The width of these profiles varies from 5 to 15 cm.

The main types of self-tapping screws used in the assembly of frame structures are fasteners with a length of 9.5 mm ("fleas" - with sharp tips), 25 and 35 mm. It is recommended to take galvanized steel, that is, white.

Straight suspensions are used - U-shaped. They are also chosen with galvanizing. There is also the so-called fast suspension. The device of this element allows you to adjust the height of the ceiling plane. Used exclusively when installing ceiling frames.

Connecting element - "crab" or cruciform connector. It is used for a bundle of transversely located profiles (criss-cross). The straight connector is used to extend the rail.

Metal frame for gypsum board

Installation of a metal frame under the gypsum board

Start with the markup. First, the lines of the position of the bearing profile on the floor and ceiling are determined and applied. For this, it is better to use a laser level. The lines are spaced from the bearing surfaces by about 10 cm. The value depends on the thickness of the profile, drywall sheet, communications, thermal insulation and curvature of the walls.

Now install the guide profiles. They are fastened with dowels in increments of no more than a meter. Next, a marking of the position of the bearing profiles is applied to the wall. They are located every 60 cm.

If you need increased rigidity, then reduce the installation step to 40 cm.

After that, the suspensions are installed. They start from the floor at a height of 15 cm and then upward in increments of no more than 1 m. Masters advise to put them every 60 cm. Three or four suspensions will be required on a standard wall 2.5 m high. They are also fastened with dowels, preferably with a size of 6x60 mm. Next, insert the vertical posts into the rails and fix them with small screws (9.5 mm).

In the video you can see the option of assembling the frame under the gypsum board:

The next step is thread tension, which will show how much each rack-mount profile is extended or recessed into the plane. The threads are pulled between the outer racks at the level of the hangers. It is necessary to adjust the position of the vertical profiles relative to the thread and screw them to the hangers. After that, the plane is checked with a two-meter rule.

Installation is completed by installing horizontal bridges. It is allowed to make them from a rack-mount profile. Start the installation from the bottom. The first one should be 25 cm from the floor, the subsequent ones - every 40-60 cm. During the installation process, the ears of the connecting "crabs" are immediately bent and screwed to the profile.

The frame is ready. Now they begin to install the plates, then prepare them for finishing and cladding. The process is simple, but it requires attention to detail and meticulousness. Only then will design ideas go to waste. Whichever option you choose: metal or metal, the main thing is to carry out the installation carefully and slowly in order to set it straight.

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