Not a single basement can do without a ventilation system, since in the absence of a constant influx fresh air dampness cannot be avoided. In basements and cellars, not only canned supplies are usually stored, but also fresh vegetables and fruits that “breathe”, causing moisture to accumulate in the room. In addition, walls can absorb moisture from the soil located with outside, if during construction the basement was poorly constructed.

Do-it-yourself cellar ventilation is quite simple. Moreover, it is possible to install and organize the operation of this constant air exchange system not only at the construction stage, but also in a finished storage facility.

How the system works

The operation of the ventilation system is based on the laws of physics, and if you carefully consider it schematic diagram, then you can see that its structure is very simple and understandable.

The general principle of ventilation is extremely simple

There are two ventilation holes in the cellar, through one of which fresh air enters the basement, and through the second it is exhausted along with all fumes. But the system was would not effective enough if ventilation holes were not would pipes of a certain diameter are supplied.

Also, the quality of ventilation is highly dependent on correct location exhaust and supply pipes and from raising them above the ground surface above the cellar.

Ventilation pipes can be installed in the walls of the basement if it is located under a house or garage, or they can be routed through the ceiling, in the case when arranged in the yard as a separate building.

Another important point when calculating and installing the system is the height of installation of the pipes from the basement floor and their discharge to the street, since too much cold air may enter the room, which will be dangerous for vegetables stored fresh in chests. You cannot make the holes too small, since the musty air will not leave the room completely, which means that the products stored in it will definitely begin to deteriorate.

Before you begin installation of any of the varieties ventilation systems, you need to familiarize yourself with some recommendations that must be taken into account during design and construction work:

• It would be correct if the ventilation system begins to be laid during the construction of the cellar - in this case, channels are left in the masonry walls into which ventilation pipes are installed.

Undoubtedly, best option- installation of a ventilation system during the construction of the cellar

In order not to guess later where it is better to install the pipes, ventilation should be immediately included in the cellar design.

• The installed pipes must have the same diameter - this parameter ensures uniform air circulation. If it is necessary to speed up the removal of stagnant air saturated with dampness, the exhaust pipe can be taken with a slightly larger diameter than the supply pipe. However, under no circumstances should you install an exhaust pipe with a diameter smaller than that of the supply pipe, since under such conditions air may begin to linger inside the room. This will negatively affect the products stored in the cellar, but the main danger is se in another case, a certain threat to human health is created when descending into a gas-filled underground room.
• Never place both ventilation pipes next to each other, since in this case the room will not be well ventilated. They must be mounted on opposite walls or in opposite corners. This is done so that the fresh flow, before going outside, passes through the entire room and pushes the stagnant air to exit into the exhaust pipe.
• The opening of the exhaust pipe must be mounted near the ceiling, since the warmer exhaust air rushes upward. This location will contribute to constant air purification, without stagnation in the ceiling area, and therefore to good preservation of food.
• To ensure good draft, the ventilation pipe of the hood rises above the ridge or embankment above the ceiling of the cellar, at least 1500 mm.
• For ventilation systems most often used plastic pipes, intended for sewerage. For small rooms this diameter is usually sufficient.
• If the cellar is located under a garage or under another utility room, then you can use the entrance hatch as an exhaust hole.

In this case, two two steps are made, one insulated - winter, and the other - in the form of a frame, with a fine grille attached to it. The grate is necessary to prevent small rodents from sneaking into the basement.

The insulated hatch is removed in summer period for constant ventilation of the cellar. If the room above the basement is insulated, then winter time ventilation sessions can be carried out.

Option - cellar in the basement under the house

• When installing ventilation in a cellar located under a house or garage, you need provide for that so that there are bends and turns in both the supply and exhaust pipes as less as possible. Ideally, it is better to achieve such an arrangement that the pipe is absolutely straight.
• The pipe along its entire length must have the same diameter, without expansions or contractions.
• On the street, the supply pipe, if it is located low above the ground, must be covered with a mesh (grid) to protect the cellar from the penetration of rodents or other small animals and birds.

• It is recommended to install dampers in both pipes that regulate the inflow and outflow of air, which are especially necessary in winter. They help control the flow of cold air in severe frosts and, accordingly, the outflow of warm air to maintain the necessary microclimate in the cellar.

• If the pipe heads are located strictly vertically, they must be protected from precipitation, dust and debris getting inside by installing a metal umbrella or deflector on top.

A deflector is more profitable, as it creates an artificial vacuum and increases traction

When using a deflector, a vacuum area is created around it, and this phenomenon helps to increase traction.

• The section of the exhaust pipe located outdoors must be well insulated to avoid condensation in the cold period of the year.

Types of cellar ventilation systems

There are two basic types of ventilation systems - natural and forced. And one or another option is chosen depending on the volume and layout of the basement.

Natural ventilation system

Natural ventilation is based on the difference in pressure and temperature indoors and outdoors. Effective work largely depends on the correct location of the pipes. Thus, the supply opening should be located at a height of a maximum of 250 ÷ 300 mm from the floor, and the exhaust opening should be 100 ÷ 200 mm below the ceiling level. It is not permissible to place it even lower, otherwise the ceiling will begin to become damp.

This ventilation system may be clearly insufficient for a large cellar room, or if it consists of several rooms.

Video: Natural ventilation in the cellar under the garage

Forced ventilation system

The forced ventilation system has the same channels (pipes), but fans are built into them to create forced air movement.

In the most simple systems forced type fan is installed on the exhaust duct. Thus, an artificial vacuum is created in the room, facilitating the active flow of fresh air into the cellar through the supply opening. The power of the selected fan will depend on the volume of the room.

They do it differently - they install fans on both the supply and exhaust ducts. This can be true in voluminous, complexly configured basements. Here you will definitely need the help of a specialist to calculate the consistency of air intake and outlet, that is, the diameters of the channels and the power (performance) of the fans installed in them.

Video: example of homemade forced ventilation of a cellar

Calculation of ventilation duct diameters

For any type of ventilation, it is very important to correctly determine the diameters of the pipes. The calculation algorithms used by professional designers are very complex, and it makes no sense to present them in full. However, when installing ventilation in a small private cellar, you can use a simplified calculation method.

So, with some assumptions acceptable under these conditions, we can assume that for one square meter of cellar area, 26 square centimeters of cross-sectional area is required ventilation duct. So, as an example, you can estimate what pipe diameter will be needed for a cellar measuring 3 × 2 meters.

Finding the area of ​​the room:

S = 3 × 2 = 6 m²

According to the indicated ratio, it will require a pipe with the following channel cross-sectional area:

T = 6 × 26 = 156 cm²

It remains to find the radius of the pipe:

R = √ (T / π) = √ (156 / 3.14) ≈ 7.05 cm

Therefore, the diameter of the supply pipe:

Dп ≈ 14 cm = 140 mm.

Provided that only forced ventilation, and the hatch will play the role of an exhaust hatch, then you can slightly increase the inlet channel by installing a pipe with a diameter of 150mm.

To guarantee air exchange, it is customary to install a pipe on the exhaust duct with a diameter 10 ÷ 15% larger than at the inlet. In the example under consideration, you can install on the exhaust duct:

Dв = Dп + 15% = 140 + 21 ≈ 160 mm

Ventilation installation

After spending necessary calculations, taking into account all the nuances described above, you can proceed to the installation of ventilation.

• If the ventilation system is installed after the construction of the cellar, then a hole must be made in its ceiling for the air duct to pass through.
• Then, a pipe is lowered into the cellar through the hole, which will work for the hood; it is fixed under the ceiling, no more than 100 ÷ 150 mm below its surface.
• On the street, the exhaust pipe is raised to a height of at least 1500 mm above the ground or above the roof surface.

• In the opposite corner of the cellar, a hole is also made in the ceiling or wall, and a supply pipe is installed and secured into it, which is lowered low to the floor. It should be located no lower than 200 mm from the floor and no higher than 500 mm.
• On the street, the supply pipe should not be made very high. If it comes out through the ceiling, it is enough to raise it by 200 ÷ 250 mm. It should be taken into account that the lower the intake opening of the supply pipe is located, the higher the difference in pressure at the inlet and outlet, the stronger the natural craving, which means air flow.
• If the supply pipe is discharged through the wall, then put it on ventilation grille or plastic deflector.

• In the case when the installation of ventilation for the cellar is carried out in a house where a fireplace or stove is installed, it is recommended to raise the exhaust pipe next to the chimney, as this activates the removal of exhaust air from the basement due to the large temperature difference.

• It is recommended to install dampers on the pipes inside the cellar to regulate the strength of air flows. By opening them to the required light in the room, the intensity of circulation, humidity and air temperature are regulated. It is the presence of a damper and proper regulation of the microclimate in the cellar that will determine whether the workpieces will be kept in proper condition for a long time.

After the system is assembled, be sure to check it for normal traction.

• To check the air flow pressure at the inlet, you need to attach a piece of thin paper to the pipe. If it begins to clearly sway, it means that the air flow rate is good.
• Another way to check the operation of the system is to direct the smoke that may come from burning paper in a metal bucket. A couple of old newspapers will be enough, which needs to be lit, allowed to burn to half, and then extinguished until smoldering.

Additional actions to maintain a normal microclimate

To maintain a comfortable microclimate for storing food in the cellar, you should periodically carry out the following actions:

In order to help reduce humidity in the basement, it is necessary to ventilate it regularly. So, in the summer, all doors or hatches are opened and the dampers on the openings are fully opened. The hot summer wind will do its job - dry and ventilate the cellar. Other, more effective methods for forced drying of the cellar will be described below.

There are times when it is necessary, on the contrary, to increase the humidity in the storage room. Then, in the cellar, use a spray bottle to spray water, sprinkle the floor with wet sawdust, or install a box filled with wet sand. Sawdust and sand are moistened with water as needed.

Drying the cellar

This can also be classified as ventilation measures, so you should also have a sufficient understanding of them. Moreover, there are several ways to perform this procedure.

As mentioned above, all drying processes are carried out in the summer, but it is additionally recommended to perform them one more time immediately before storing vegetables in the cellar.

If the room is very damp, then all items of “basement furniture” and boxes (chests) for storing vegetables should be removed from it. It is advisable to dry them in direct sunlight - their ultraviolet component will be an excellent “cure” for mold and mildew.

All doors and hatches open wide, and if a fan is installed in the basement, then it can also be turned on. Thus, the cellar should be ventilated for 3 ÷ 5 days, and this will become preliminary preparation before the main drying activities.

The first method is boxes with a hygroscopic substance

During the drying process, sometimes you can do without simple method. A box filled with quicklime or coarse table salt is brought into the cellar. These components are inexpensive, highly hygroscopic and perfectly absorb moisture. Not only that, they also disinfect the air and walls of the room.

The second method is the old method with a candle.

Very old, popular, extremely simple and in an accessible way drying is to install a burning candle near the exhaust pipe. It must be installed in an iron container and on a stable stand.

Simple and effective method drying - using a candle

The candle helps create more intense draft in the exhaust pipe, so the air circulation in the room accelerates, and its exchange occurs much more often than with normal ventilation mode.

In addition to a candle, a regular alcohol lamp with liquid or dry fuel can be used for the same purpose.

Drying in this way continues for several days, depending on how humid the room is. The candle or fuel in the burner is replaced several times as necessary until the desired result is obtained.

The third method is a metal brazier

A more troublesome, but no less reliable way to quickly dry it is with the help of an improvised brazier, which can be made from a metal container, for example, from an old bucket.

Several holes are made in it to increase draft, and then firewood is loaded into the container, preferably birch, as they are capable of creating a favorable disinfectant smoke.

You can create a more complex structure using a cast iron grate, which is installed on bricks placed at its corners. Installed on top of the grille bucketwithout a bottom into which wood is also stacked and set on fire. The advantage of this method is that the grate can become red-hot and then slowly cool, releasing heat into the room. At the same time, draft increases and, accordingly, air exchange accelerates.

The fire must burn continuously for at least 12 ÷ 14 hours, so you need to set aside a whole day for these procedures and prepare quite a lot of birch firewood.

Raising the brazier to reload firewood and lowering it through the hatch using a cable with a hook. The place for such an improvised “fenced fire” must be prepared in advance so that no preconditions for a fire are created.

The fourth method is the use of electric heaters

The method using electric heaters is not too troublesome. Any of the commercially available devices is suitable for this purpose, but it is best to use “wind-blown” models.

The heater is installed in the middle of the cellar so that the heat is distributed evenly throughout the entire area of ​​​​the room.

When using this method, you need to fully understand that such a drying process is quite long and, therefore, expensive, so you need to immediately calculate your financial capabilities.

Drying the cellar with a powerful heat generator quite popular, as this method is very effective. It is even used to dry out the basements of houses that have survived a flood.

Due to thermal radiation and the powerful flow created by the fan, the cellar dries out quickly enough. The device also runs on electricity, but such drying will be cheaper, as it will happen much faster. However, you can try to find heat gun, also running on propane.

Prices for popular models of electric heaters

Electric heaters

Fifth method - a regular home fan

Since fans are found in almost every home, they are also often used to remove excess moisture from the cellar. The fan is installed in the center of the cellar and turned on for three to five days. In this case, all existing openings, doors or hatches must be wide open.

The sixth method is a portable stove

Used for drying procedures basements and ordinary stoves.

In this case, the chimney pipe of the stove is brought to the exhaust vent, and the potbelly stove is heated for three to five days. At the same time, air exchange in the cellar rapidly increases, which leads to effective drying of the room.

If there is no exhaust pipe in the cellar, then this method does not make sense, since there will be a lot of smoke in the room, but the drying effect will be very small.

Waterproofing treatment of the cellar

After drying the cellar, in order to preserve the achieved state of the room for the longest possible time, it is recommended to cover the surfaces of the walls and floor with waterproofing compounds.

• If the walls are made of concrete, then it is used, which is used to treat the surfaces in several layers.

With each layer it penetrates deep into the concrete slab, closing all the pores inside it, thus creating a waterproof but breathable surface.

• Cover the dried cellar with roofing felt, which is excellent waterproofing agent.

In this case, you can get the desired effect if the material is laid on a flat surface. On her mastic is applied, which is then heated, and then her roofing felt is glued, creating waterproof walls and floors.

• An excellent waterproofing environmentally friendly material is clay.

This method of waterproofing a room is called padding. The only requirement for natural material for flooring and walls is a high percentage of fat content.

— The process will require stones that will strengthen the cellar floor. They are poured onto its surface, then a solution of clay with the addition of sand is laid on top of them. This layer must be at least 100 ÷ 120 mm. The consistency of the clay solution should be quite thick.

— The clay is spread over the surface and compacted among the stones, creating a mixed coating.

— Having completely compacted the surface to an even state, a layer of coarse sand is poured onto it, the thickness of which should be 40 ÷ 60 mm. The sand is also compacted with a tamper - this makes the surface even denser. The remaining sand is then simply swept off the floor. If you want to achieve a neat flat surface, then the top is finally smoothed using a special grouting tool.

— Clay floors take a long time to dry, from 20 to 40 days, so this work needs to begin in early summer. Then the cellar will be fully ready for use in the fall.

• Earthen walls are also possible waterproof clay. A chain-link mesh or ordinary soft wire is attached to them using small metal staples. Then a clay mortar is poured onto this base. When it dries, another layer is applied, which is leveled manually or using grout in a circular motion.

In addition to these waterproofing materials, others are used, but the ones listed above can be called the most affordable and safest for the room where food will be stored.

A ventilation device in the cellar is necessary, and it is better to think about it in advance by installing it during the construction of the storage facility. If the system is installed correctly, then serious and long-term drying processes can be avoided, since ordinary ventilation will be sufficient.

Video: how ventilation can be arranged in the cellar

Not a single basement room can be without a ventilation system, since if there is a lack of constant flow of cool air, dampness cannot be eliminated. In basements and cellars, as a rule, not only canned foods are stored, but also fresh vegetables and fruits, which “breathe,” which inevitably causes moisture to accumulate in the room. In addition to this problem, the walls can absorb moisture from the ground from the outer edge if the waterproofing of the base of the house and the basement was poorly organized during construction.

• The ventilation pipe of the hood rises above the ridge to ensure excellent draft or embankments above the ceiling of the cellar, at least 1500 millimeters.
• For good ventilation, they are often used only plastic pipes designated for sewerage purposes. For not so much large rooms Such a diameter is usually sufficient.
• If the basement is located in front of a car garage or in front of another home place, in this case as an exhaust opening, it is allowed to use the entrance opening.

In this case, 2 doors are made, one insulated - for winter, and the second - in the frame version, with a small mesh attached to it. The fence is needed to prevent small rodents from getting into the cellar.

The insulated opening is removed in the summer for continuous ventilation of the cellar. If the room above the basement is insulated, then ventilation sessions are allowed during the winter period.

Version - cellar in the basement under the house

Supply pipe narrowed by a grille

• It is recommended to install dampers in these two pipes that stabilize the inflow and outflow of air, which is especially necessary in the winter. They can help measure the arrival of cool air in extreme cold and, therefore, the decrease of warm air, to strengthen the required local climate in the cellar.

Umbrella for the exhaust pipe head

If the pipe heads are placed exactly in a vertical position, they should be protected from precipitation, dust and debris getting inside by placing a metal umbrella or ventilation deflector on top.

• In this case, if the installation of ventilation for the cellar is carried out in a home, and there is a fireplace or stove in that place, it is recommended to raise the exhaust pipe next to the chimney, as this will activate the removal of processed air from the basement due to the large temperature difference.

Dampers on the pipes can help accurately coordinate the flow of ventilation.

• It is recommended to install dampers on the pipes from inside the cellar to regulate the power of light flows. By inventing them to the required clearance in the room, the circulation power, moisture content and air temperature are regulated. Actually, the presence of a damper and proper regulation of the local climate in the cellar will determine whether enough air is saved.

The basement is a place that owners use in different ways: in some it is used as a room for storing vegetables, food, and preparations, in others it is a structure for growing mushrooms and plants, and in others they simply store unnecessary things there. But if the ventilation in the basement is poor, then storing food products there will be dangerous, moreover, they will quickly deteriorate, and living plants will not be able to develop there at all. Therefore, it is so important to establish high-quality air exchange in an underground room, which, by the way, can be done even by craftsmen who do not have practical skills in this matter.

A good ventilation system is one that provides a continuous cycle of air circulation, so before you approach its planning and installation, you need to familiarize yourself with some recommendations from experienced practitioners that will allow you to do high-quality ventilation in the basement with your own hands.

1. Include ventilation equipment in the design before construction begins.

2. When choosing pipes, pay attention to their diameter; they all must match so that the inflow and outlet are uniform. For rooms with high humidity, buy material with wider holes to speed up the natural circulation process. Remember that the basement in which vegetables, fruits and preparations are stored will be negatively affected by the choice of pipes with different diameters, especially if the exhaust part is already a supply unit.

3. Do not place ventilation holes next to each other, this will not allow the structure to be properly ventilated. Their optimal placement would be opposite corners or walls of the room. Fresh air must not only enter the interior of the underground room, it must completely pass through it and displace the stagnant one.

4. For the ventilation system in small buildings, ordinary plastic ones are suitable, sewer pipes. Reliable and absolutely budget option.

5. In the summer, insulating materials from hatches and air ducts must be removed.

6. Do not forget about installing dampers, without them the ventilation process will be disrupted and, if necessary, it will be impossible to adjust it, especially when it comes to the transition from winter to summer and vice versa.

7. Equip the basement with two doors, one solid, the other lattice. This is needed for support optimal temperature inside the building.

8. When installing supply pipes, avoid bends, which will cause contamination and disruption of air circulation.

Given these requirements, owners can avoid global problems, which negatively affect the functionality of basement ventilation.

Purpose of ventilation in the garage basement

There are many factors that appear when the basement ventilation system is improperly organized or absent. This also applies to garages, under which there are underground buildings. So, let's highlight several reasons that will explain why air exchange is so important in such structures. Firstly, in winter, the effects of condensation are actively manifested due to the heating of the air, which rises to the top and provokes the appearance of high humidity in the garage, where automobiles and other equipment are usually located. This is fraught with the rapid formation of rust, the appearance of mold and rot on the walls, etc.

Secondly, the appearance of condensation has a detrimental effect on vegetables and fruits, as well as on products made from them, which are so often stored in the garage. Their preservation is facilitated by the optimal microclimate of the room, which is practically impossible to create under the influence of condensation without ventilation.

Thirdly, a garage is a place where you work with oil, gasoline and other substances that evaporate when temperatures rise and negatively affect human body. All exhaust gases, etc. fuel vapor can only be provided with correct installation and organization of air flows. This is why it is so important to install a good ventilation system in the garage and basement below it to ensure a constant flow of air in and out.

How to make ventilation in the garage basement. Which ventilation system should you choose?

Without quality ventilation, the basement will soon become damp, mold and mildew will grow on the walls, and then it will have to be completely rebuilt. So that these Negative consequences were not realized, at the stage of construction of the garage it is necessary to pay attention Special attention air exchange in an underground room, take into account all standards and norms when organizing ventilation, which can be either natural or forced. Rarely found combined options. Read more about these varieties in the table.

Types of ventilation system
1.	Natural	This type They call it the most affordable, and it can also be handled by craftsmen without experience in construction. It consists of using two metal pipes supply and exhaust, which promote air circulation. This system is only suitable for small garages, since the air exchanger must be inspected and cleaned regularly. The disadvantage of the natural type is its seasonality, since during the hot period it practically ceases to function, due to approximately the same temperature indoors and outdoors. In winter, the pipe may leak water or become clogged with snow and freeze, so it must be provided with a canopy and simply inspected regularly. Removal of moisture during natural ventilation occurs by thermal convection: heated air goes outside, and the vacated volume of the underground room is filled with an influx of fresh air.
2.	Forced	This type requires the use of additional equipment, in fact, fans, which organize artificial air exchange between the basement and the street. Forced air exchange requires financial investment, but at the same time it is characterized by its efficiency and is intended for large-sized objects. For implementation artificial ventilation Basement power supply required. Optimal conditions with this equipment they are stored in the basement all year round.
3.	Combined	The combined type of ventilation in garage basements is extremely rare, due to the fact that its effectiveness is maximal only in the summer, when air exchange needs to be maximized.

Let's consider the simplest option for organizing natural ventilation in the garage basement. It can be put into operation using two methods: the first is to bring the pipe out through the floor, ceiling and roof of the building; the second involves venting the system through the wall of the basement, while the lower part of the air outlet pipe is located horizontally, and then rises vertically separately from the garage building.

According to practitioners, any pipe with an average diameter can be used for this purpose, the main thing is not to miscalculate its length, because in the finished version the air duct should be half a meter - a meter higher than the highest point of the garage roof. Moreover, to ensure high-quality ventilation the owner should know that the length of the exhaust pipe should vary at the three-meter mark; this will be enough for high-quality outflow and inflow of fresh air. To increase the intensity of natural ventilation, practitioners recommend installing a special deflector, an aerodynamic device that creates a rarefaction of flow and protects the basement from the penetration of dust and various precipitation.

How to make natural ventilation in the basement. What nuances need to be taken into account during the installation process?

Of course, the ventilation system should be planned directly during the construction of the basement, but there are cases when its arrangement is already carried out finished design. In the first case, builders have the opportunity to hide the exhaust air duct in the ground, and leave an opening in the brick for the pipe itself. If this did not work out initially, then a hole is made in the basement ceiling into which the hood is inserted. It is very important that it is securely fastened both outside and inside the base. If the basement is located under a residential, private house, then the pipe outlet is organized at a level with the general ventilation passage of the building.

Second hole for supply air must be located on the other side of the basement, under a residential building, according to the rules, the exit is in outside buildings, while the pipe itself inside the underground room is located in the floor area, at a distance of 30-50 centimeters from the base. In order to maintain an optimal microclimate in the basement and, if necessary, control it, special holes are made in the air duct for dampers.

In addition, in winter, due to the accumulated condensate, frost appears in the pipe, so it needs to be insulated. For this purpose, a variety of fabrics, thermal insulation materials of various types, etc. are used. According to sanitary standards, the holes made must be equipped with bars; this is necessary to protect against rodents and birds. To check the functionality of the constructed natural ventilation, you need to prepare a sheet of paper and bring it to the air duct. If it starts to move, then the system is fully functioning.

Whatever the basement, it needs to be checked regularly and the humidity in the room monitored. This is especially true for small structures. The owner is required to provide regular ventilation, and also better installation lattice door. According to experts, it is best to place a container with salt or lime in the basement; these materials absorb moisture well and disinfect the space.

How to make ventilation in the basement of a house. Features of installing forced ventilation with your own hands

About how to mount forced ventilation many experts write about the basement room and everyone insists on its implementation on initial stage construction in order to get rid of extra cash costs. Hot, windless weather, and even the nights do not foretell a cold snap - this is a direct indication that the basement should not be dominated by natural, but forced ventilation, which can be organized with your own hands based on several previously proven methods. Scheme of this device is based on the mechanical supply of street air, which, before entering the underground room, is processed by filters and receives an optimal temperature regime. Simultaneously with this process, the air that is inside is drawn out through the outlet channel to the street, which means that the circulation does not stop for a moment.

To install a forced ventilation system, the owner needs to spend a considerable budget on the purchase of materials such as:

• diffusers;
• air intakes;
• superchargers;
• ventilation ducts, etc.

It is worth noting that installation will not take as much time as it seems, but you should be especially careful about the level of humidity in the basement, and therefore when working with parts that operate on electricity. For reliability, it is better to contact familiar electricians to install fuses in order to neutralize possible short circuits or breakdowns on the housing.

So, for a medium-sized basement, as a rule, one fan is purchased; for large buildings, two will be needed. According to the layout, one of the devices is installed in place of the exhaust duct, on the internal clearance, as this will enhance the exhaust. All ventilation equipment starts working after switching on, for this purpose there are special switches or levers. When the equipment is in operating mode, the air begins to escape, and its deficiency is compensated by the supply channel. In larger rooms, a larger volume of air is required, so a second fan is installed, with the help of which the inflow and outflow are balanced. For more detailed information on how to make ventilation, watch the video:

Many homeowners believe that basement ventilation in a private house does not require special attention - punching a hole in the ceiling with the diameter of an eyeball is enough. The consequences of such a careless attitude can be very dire.

Ineffective basement ventilation can lead to the following problems:

1. Destruction load-bearing structures(wooden, metal or reinforced concrete) due to high humidity and temperature changes.
2. Failure of communications, equipment or damage material assets under the influence of corrosion processes.
3. Food spoilage due to non-compliance with temperature and humidity storage conditions.
4. The negative impact of fungus and mold on the health of residents.

Cellar with supply ventilation pipe in the background

This article provides information about the types of ventilation systems for basements. Their advantages and disadvantages, application features and calculation of air circulation. Important points which should be observed when arranging ventilation ground floor in a private house with your own hands.

What problems does basement ventilation at home solve?

Depending on the method of use, the following types of basements are distinguished:

• non-residential - for wiring engineering communications and arrangement of technical floors;
• operated - cellars for storing vegetables and other food products;
• residential - for permanent or temporary stay of people.

For each of the listed types of premises, we have developed own requirements to air exchange, humidity, temperature conditions.

The main task of the ventilation system for a non-residential basement or subfloor in a private house is to minimize air humidity. This serves as a good prevention of fungal formations and corrosion. building structures and communications, as well as the processes of moisture saturation of insulation materials.

For cellars, it is important to maintain temperature and humidity conditions regardless of the season. There must be a combination of low positive temperature with optimal humidity for storing vegetables. It is necessary to create effective air exchange throughout the entire volume of the room, without the formation of stagnation zones.

Particular attention should be paid to the ventilation system in flooded basements and subfloors. Achieving the desired humidity level here is only possible with a combination of a high-performance system exhaust ventilation and waterproofing the main places of moisture penetration: joints or seams between foundation elements, points of supply of communications to the structure.

The main task of a ventilation system for residential basements is to create a microclimate suitable for long-term stay of people. In particular, the removal of gases that can accumulate in indoors located below ground level: methane, carbon monoxide, radon. For these purposes, residential basement floors are connected to the heating system of the house and, as a rule, are equipped with full forced ventilation or with the injection of fresh air through a recovery device.

What kind of ventilation should I install in the basement?

In basements and cellars, both types of ventilation are used: natural and forced.

Schematic diagram of basement ventilation in a private house

Natural. The simplest one, consists of several vents - holes in the protruding part of the foundation. Air exchange is regulated by mechanical curtains. This method is ineffective and is only suitable for unused shallow basements. The second option combines the use of vents, exhaust and supply channels. The circulation of air flows is created due to the temperature difference in the basement and outside. The effectiveness of such a system depends on natural factors, including temperature and wind direction. Used for ventilation of cellars used for storing vegetables. The ability to regulate temperature and humidity is realized by completely blocking the vents and limiting the capacity of exhaust or supply channels. The main advantages are the simplicity of the device and affordable cost. Natural ventilation in the basement of a private house can be arranged with your own hands, using several pipes with a diameter of 150-200 mm.

Forced. Operation is carried out in the following sequence: street air is either forcibly extracted using a fan, or pumped (by a regular fan or local recuperator), filtered, heated/cooled, and distributed throughout the room. In addition to ventilation ducts, forced ventilation includes: a recuperator, a cooling unit, filters, diffusers and tees for distributing flows and supplying purified air. The main advantage of the system is complete independence from any atmospheric manifestations while ensuring effective air exchange. Disadvantages include the high cost of equipment, the complexity of calculations and installation work.

An example of a simple calculation of basement ventilation

Natural system calculation

It is based on next rule- air exchange per 1 m 2 of the basement provides 25 cm 2 of the flow area of ​​the air line.

EXAMPLE: To ventilate a basement with an area of ​​15 m2, it is necessary to use a pipeline with an area of ​​375 cm2.

Formula for area of ​​a circle:

Substituting the corresponding values ​​we get, see:

By rounding the value, we get the estimated diameter of the air pipe of 20 cm.

Calculation of the forced system

For air ducts of operated basements (cellars) with forced ventilation, it is based on the intensity of air exchange. According to the standards, it is customary for the air in the basement used for storing vegetables to be completely replaced twice within an hour. The air exchange requirement will be calculated using the formula:

• L - air exchange requirement, m 3 /hour;
• V p - volume of the basement, m 3;
• Kcr - air replacement ratio.

EXAMPLE: Basement with an area of ​​15 m2, a height of 2 m, and a volume of 30 m3. Consequently, the need for air exchange will be 60 m 3 /hour.

The cross-sectional area of ​​the air duct is determined by the formula:

• S - cross-sectional area of ​​the air duct, m2;
• L - air flow (air exchange), m 3 / hour;
• W - air flow speed, m/s. Taken from the fan data sheet (assuming 1 m/s).

Substituting all the values ​​into the formula and using the previous formula for determining the radius, we obtain a pipe radius of 7.4 cm. Therefore, when using a fan capable of creating air flow at a speed of 1 m/s for ventilation of the basement, a pipe with a diameter of 15 cm is sufficient.

In the case of intensive use of the basement, for example, there is a gym in it, the air exchange rate must take into account excess heat and moisture in the room. The formula for calculating the flow rate will be as follows:

• p - air density (at t 20°C equals 1.205 kg/m 3);
• TV - heat capacity of air (at t 20°C equals 1.005 kJ/(kg×K));
• q - volume of heat generated in the basement, kW;
• ti - temperature of outgoing air, °C;
• tв - temperature of incoming air, °C.

All coefficients used in calculations are regulated normative document SNiP 41-01-2003 "Heating, ventilation and air conditioning".

Assembling a cellar ventilation scheme in a private house with your own hands

To install a natural air exchange system:

1. Two air ducts are installed. Asbestos-cement or PVC pipes can be used as the material for their manufacture, metal boxes rectangular or square profile. The diameters (sectional area) of the supply and exhaust air ducts must be equal. This will ensure even air circulation. If the basement has high humidity and is periodically subject to flooding, it is allowed to use an exhaust pipe of a larger diameter.
2. Air ducts are placed in opposite corners (diagonally) of the room. This prevents the formation of stagnant zones. It is recommended to avoid bends and turns along the path of laying pipes from basements to the outside.
3. The lower end of the exhaust pipe is mounted near the ceiling at a distance of 20-30 cm from ceiling, but not lower than 1.5 m from the cellar floor. Thus, all warm and humid air will be removed from the room.
4. The exhaust pipe is led to the roof through all floors of the house. Its height above the ridge of the structure is at least one and a half meters. Part of the air duct located outdoors must be additionally insulated to avoid freezing and the formation of large quantity condensate To do this, the air duct is lined with bricks or a pipe is installed on it large diameter. The resulting niche is filled thermal insulation material. Most convenient for installation mineral wool. The outlet is protected by a mesh and covered with a cone-shaped roof. The use of a deflector is highly recommended to increase traction.
5. The supply air duct is installed at a height of up to half a meter above the basement floor. The lower the outlet is located outside the building, the more intense the air draft will be. It is possible to install the supply air duct on the roof of the structure, but it is most advisable to mount the supply pipe at a height of 25-30 cm from the ground level, for example, as shown in the photo below. The entrance opening is protected by a fine metal grille (decorative grille) from debris and rodents.

To regulate the intensity of air exchange inside the basement, special dampers are installed on the supply and exhaust air ducts, changing the cross-sectional values ​​of the pipes.

Supply air duct and vents with protective grilles

Installation of a forced air exchange system

The basis for partial (combined) forced ventilation is also two air ducts: supply and exhaust. The use of ventilation and other equipment is determined by the volume of the basement, its humidity and temperature conditions. In the first case, the fan is installed in the exhaust pipe duct. This contributes quick removal from the basement of stagnant, humid air. Fresh air is supplied naturally through the supply air duct or vents. If the basement has a large volume or requires intensive ventilation, an additional fan is also mounted on the supply air duct.

For forced air exchange in basements, two types of fans can be used:

1. Axial- more energy-intensive, but provide powerful and stable air flow. It is recommended to install them together check valve, preventing cold outside air from entering the room.
2. Channel (with amplitude motor)- characterized by low energy consumption and compact size. They can be embedded into any place in the air duct, both supply and exhaust.

Residential basements are characterized by the use of a general house ventilation system. Additionally, recuperators are used as local devices for heating and drying air, installed in the supply ducts.

Automation of basement ventilation processes is implemented only in forced ventilation systems. Its main task is to automatically turn on the fans or heat exchanger if the temperature and humidity exceed the acceptable range. The equipment is turned on through special relays connected to temperature and humidity sensors.

1. DIY cellar ventilation:

1. Forced supply ventilation of the basement:

Finally

When arranging a basement ventilation system, it is also necessary to pay increased attention to the hydro- and thermal insulation of its enclosing structures. Such measures are especially carefully carried out on the floors between the non-residential basement and the first floor. Otherwise, due to a significant temperature difference, condensation will intensively accumulate on opposite surfaces of the floor, which can gradually destroy even a particularly strong reinforced concrete slab.

A healthy lifestyle means avoiding eating foods that contain preservatives and chemical additives. This also includes industrially grown vegetables and fruits. After all, it is unknown what pesticides they were treated with and what they fertilized the soil with. Following this logic, many grow vegetables on their own plot. But growing is still half the battle. It is also necessary to properly preserve the crop. Ideal place For food storage there is a dry and cool basement. An important factor influencing the microclimate is considered to be proper natural ventilation of the basement, in the presence of which the vegetables will not rot or dry out. Food spoils mainly due to lack of exhaust hood or, conversely, due to drafts.

Ventilation is a system consisting of pipes of different diameters or shafts that provide correct parameters humidity, temperature and air circulation in the room.

During winter storage, vegetables and fruits release heat and moisture, and temperature changes outside, and, accordingly, in the cellar, can cause condensation indoors. Natural ventilation of the cellar is precisely designed to eliminate these factors unfavorable for food storage.

In addition to the good preservation of food in the basement, the microclimate and comfort in other rooms of the house largely depend on ventilation. Good air circulation will relieve the building of excess moisture coming from the ground, and, therefore, protect against mold and mildew and significantly increase the service life of all structures. When building an underground storage facility, some homeowners ignore installing ventilation, citing a lack of special knowledge or the complexity of the work. In reality, creating natural ventilation in the basement is quite easy.

Before proceeding with the ventilation device, it is necessary to isolate the room from ingress groundwater and (if necessary) install a drainage system.

Correct installation of ventilation points

To ensure that the air does not stagnate and, on the contrary, strong drafts do not appear, it is necessary to properly organize air circulation. The correct climate must be established in the room for long-term storage of the crop.

The principle of organizing natural air exchange in the basement.

To do this, you will need to install 2 points for natural ventilation in the basement:

• 1 point (pipe outlet for supplying air to the room) is installed at a distance of half a meter from the floor.
• Point 2 (for exhaust) is mounted under the ceiling on the opposite side of the basement so that air circulates throughout the room.

It is important not to forget about the protective grilles that must be installed at the top of the exhaust and supply pipes (protection from birds and rodents).

The intensity of air exchange directly depends on the difference in height of the exhaust pipe and the supply air duct. It is for this reason that it is necessary to install the supply pipe at a height of 0.5 meters from, and mount the exhaust pipe as high as possible. Pipe outlets to the street must be insulated, thereby minimizing moisture condensation inside.

To regulate air flows in the cross section ventilation pipes gate valves are installed. Using the levers you can control the draft of the hood. If the vegetables dry out and wrinkle, then you need to reduce the air flow, and if they rot, then increase it.

Pros and cons of natural air exchange

Installed natural ventilation in the basement can do without auxiliary electric fans. Such ventilation is installed quickly, and most importantly, you can build it yourself. When choosing this system, it is necessary to take into account that the air flow speed depends on the temperature in the basement and outside. The greater the difference between them, the faster the air moves.

Advantages of natural ventilation:

• The system is very simple (there is nothing to break in it).
• Easy to install and low cost.
• Does not require connection to an electrical outlet.
• Doesn't make noise.

The only disadvantage of such a device is that, with the same temperature conditions indoors and outdoors, the efficiency of the hood is significantly reduced. But it’s not scary, there is a way out.

In order for the hood to work even at the same air temperature inside and outside, an electric heater or any heating device is installed in the basement, which will warm the air, creating required pressure and starting circulation. Thanks to this, musty air from the basement will flow out into the pipe by convection flow.

Is the size of the basement important?

If your basement is larger than 50 square meters, it is recommended to install forced ventilation. Premises up to 50 sq.m. m will be perfectly ventilated and with the help natural circulation air.

In small cellars, in general, you can install one pipe divided into two parts. One half will serve for air supply, and the second for exhaust. Each part must have its own damper. The main thing is that the pipes at the joints do not have gaps.

Choosing pipes

The choice of pipes depends on the area of ​​the basement; the most popular sizes are 12x12 and 15x15 centimeters.

Plastic ventilation pipes.

Different materials are used for pipes:

• Galvanized sheet.
• Plastic. The use of plastic pipes is in great demand when independent device ventilation. This is due to the ease of their installation.

Unlike PVC pipes, metal ventilation ducts require some professional knowledge and experience, but they are much more reliable. Which material to choose depends entirely on your individual wishes and financial capabilities.

Some craftsmen make ventilation ducts from wooden planks, tightly connecting them together, coating the cracks with sealant, or placing a sealant between the boards. Cheap and cheerful, but painstaking.

Checking draft and ventilation efficiency

In order to make sure that the ventilation system is working, it is necessary to check the draft. To do this, in the cellar you need to attach a sheet of thin paper to the hole in the exhaust pipe or bring a lit match to it. If the paper is attracted or the flame deviates, then there is a draft. If the flame does not change or the sheet falls, then the hood is not functioning. It may be necessary to change the pipes to a larger diameter.

Checking the draft - the flame should be drawn into the exhaust pipe.

In general, an extinguished match in the cellar indicates a deficiency of oxygen, which means that forced ventilation cannot be avoided.

Also, the appearance of dampness and mold indicates that ventilation is not working as it should. In this case, it is necessary to open the pipe valves completely, ventilate the basement, opening all doors and windows. Folk way to combat mold is to place a container of coarse salt indoors for several days.

It also happens the other way around - due to lack of humidity and excessive high temperature In the cellar, vegetables dry out and become limp. To increase the humidity, you need to close the hood damper and place a bucket of water or a bag of damp sand inside, or you can simply sprinkle the floor with damp sawdust.

Forced ventilation

If for some reason air circulation in the basement does not appear, stable draft is not established, then you will have to resort to partial mechanization.

It makes sense to install forced ventilation in buildings with a large area, where in addition to the basement, living rooms are also ventilated.

Automatic exhaust hood in a cellar or basement is not a cheap pleasure, but it eliminates the dependence of the quality of air exchange on natural conditions.

To create such an exhaust hood, electric fans are installed in the pipe sections. It is important to remember that in winter you need to check (and, if necessary, adjust) the ventilation draft to prevent food from freezing.