Before all other types of flooring in the garage, the concrete surface has undeniable advantages in the form of practicality and durability. Of course, it will cost much more than a rammed earth floor, but in terms of reliability and convenience it will give it an impressive head start. The main thing is that you can cope with the creation of a concrete base in the garage on your own, thereby saving good money. The article will focus on how to make a concrete floor in a garage with your own hands.

The basics of installing a concrete floor in a garage

An earthen floor is usually made as a temporary solution, but it is usually replaced with a solid concrete base before starting the interior decoration of the garage.

The process is slow and labor-intensive, especially since it will be necessary to build an inspection pit. Without this element, the garage will be less functional. With this in mind, the process of installing a concrete floor will be divided into the following stages:

• pit creation;
• marking of the base level and soil preparation;
• laying a cushion of rubble and sand;
• waterproofing;
• reinforcement;
• directly fill.

Now you can start to step-by-step progress towards the dream of a durable garage floor.

Whether or not to make a viewing hole in the garage

Of course, a viewing hole is needed only for those who like to repair cars on their own and know all the intricacies of the process. On the other hand, there is no guarantee that over time a motorist from the category of “users” will not have to retrain into the category of “maintenance personnel”. Therefore, it is better not to skip the stage of creating a pit, if time permits.

First you need to decide on the location of the pit. In small garages, she delves into the center of the room. Lucky owners of more impressive real estate are more fortunate - they can dig it out a little to the side of the garage entrance.

Calculation of parameters

• The length is based on the calculation of the same size of the car with an increase in waterproofing and concrete pouring. It is also necessary to take into account that from under the car, driven into the hole, you will have to get out both from the front and from the back. Therefore, when marking, 1.5 m is added to the length of the vehicle.
• A width of 75 or 80 cm is sufficient. To pour concrete or create brick walls, you need to add 15 cm on each side.
• The height is calculated based on the height of the garage owner with an increase of 30 cm.
• The walls of the inspection pit can be poured with a concrete mixture - for this you will need to build an internal formwork around the perimeter of the pit and assemble a reinforcing mesh. Some craftsmen prefer brick lining of the pit walls.

• Along the marked boundaries, taking into account all the additions, you need to dig a pit. The main thing is to try to keep the walls as even as possible, but completely comparing them in level is not required. When the soil is removed to the desired depth, the bottom should be tamped. To compact the floor, a small layer of clay is poured onto it and the base is re-compacted.
• Waterproofing the floor in the pit can be made of roofing material - the most budgetary option or waterproofing. The latter belongs to the welded roll materials, has improved characteristics and costs a little more. The edges of the waterproofing layer should overlap the walls. The next step is to pour the base with a concrete mixture to a height of 7 to 10 cm. The poured base is leveled and left to set; it is not required to cover it with a film.

Erection of walls in the observation pit

• When the floor has hardened, it's time to start laying the walls. Alternatively, they can be brick. For the walls, take fired red brick. If desired, it can be replaced with aerated concrete blocks. The masonry is carried out along the perimeter of the entire pit at the same time, be sure to check the level and retreat from the edge of the pit about 15 cm. Subsequently, this gap will be required for waterproofing the masonry, and the excess distance will be covered with soil.
• It is better to remove excess mortar immediately so as not to knock down the frozen mixture from the bricks later. Laying is carried out using the "brick on edge" method. This allows you to create a sufficiently strong wall of low height and significantly save space in the pit. The shift of each subsequent row is standard - in half a brick.

• Approximately every 2-3 rows, the evenness of the masonry must be checked with a level, the maximum height built up at a time is no more than 6 rows. The same requirement is met when the walls are poured with concrete. You cannot fill the voids in three or four passes.
• The last row should be below the threshold (by 6 or 7 cm), because subsequently the wall around the perimeter will be covered by a metal profile. He, in turn, should also not be flush with the concrete base, because the hole, while it is not needed, is covered with boards. The level of overlap will just coincide with the flooded floor.

Wall waterproofing

• The waterproofing of the walls from the outside begins two to three days after the final row of bricks has been laid.
• Using a dense roller, the entire surface of the masonry should be primed (primer). In order to make it more convenient to act, the roller needs to be extended by attaching it to a long thin handle.
• The bituminous mastic is heated to the required temperature specified in the instructions. Also, using a roller, it must be applied in a dense layer over the dried primer.

• After the mastic has hardened, the void between the brickwork and the earthen walls of the pit can be filled with soil. The procedure cannot be carried out in one go. It is carried out gradually and alternates with careful compaction of the newly filled layer.
• If you hurry, the uncompacted soil will eventually sag under its own weight, and the concrete base around the perimeter of the pit will crack.

DIY concrete floor in the garage

To mark the level of the future concrete floor, it is more convenient to use a laser level, in this case the task will be completed in a short time, literally in minutes. It will take a little longer to work with the water level. Some masters advise to first make a rough marking at a height of a meter from the base, and then evenly lower the line to the desired mark. The marking line can be broken off with a cord, and it can be assumed that the zero level has been determined.

Preparation of the base

The time has come for the preparatory stage familiar to all craftsmen, which precedes the pouring of the concrete floor in the garage.

• It is possible that debris or excess soil has remained on the floor since the construction of the inspection pit. All this needs to be removed and the floor deepened by another 30 cm. It is not necessary to achieve absolute evenness, but visible irregularities and bumps should be leveled. Now the soil is compacted with a rammer.
• Next, a small layer of clay and sand is poured - about 3-5 cm, moisten it abundantly with water and tamp it thoroughly. At this stage, it is better to linger thoroughly, because a high-quality subfloor is, first of all, dense and hard.

• The gravel-sand mixture is poured into a uniform layer of 10 cm. This requirement is difficult to comply with if the garage is of impressive size. In this case, you need to drive pegs into the floor that would protrude to the desired height. Guided by them, you can create an even pillow even over a very large area. The main thing is that the marks are set often enough, and are located evenly over the entire floor area.
• After the gravel is scattered, it is also compacted, then the pegs are removed, and the same gravel is laid in the formed voids. In small garages, it is enough to install noticeable beacons in every corner and approximately in the center of all walls.
• Sand can be of any fraction, even an admixture of clay is allowed, only without foreign inclusions, litter and large lumps. It is convenient to sprinkle sand in small piles on the floor, level it with a long, even rail, moving backwards. The sandy layer is also moistened with water and tapped tightly. Using a level or the same long river, you need to check the pillow for irregularities and drops.
• The layer of gravel should not exceed 5 cm in height. It is leveled, compacted and again sprinkled with a layer of sand. Then the entire area of ​​the future floor must again be covered with a rammer. A reinforcing mesh can be laid on top.

• To crown this flaky "cake" will be a layer of skinny concrete. Its strength properties are very low, but it will play the role of a leveling layer. To do this, you will need to displace: 3 parts of sand (pre-sifted); 1 part cement; 6 parts of fine crushed stone.
• All ingredients are dry mixed and then diluted with water. The resulting mass is poured onto gravel and leveled with a rule or with a long rail with even edges. The thickness of the skinny concrete layer should be about 3 cm. It is left to dry.

Waterproofing a concrete floor in a garage

• A layer of hardened skinny concrete must be primed. When the soil dries up, waterproofing can be done. It is allowed to use any kind of deposited materials, bitumen mastic, plastic wrap or liquid rubber.

• Any waterproofing that is created from canvases should be laid with an overlap of 10 cm. Roofing material adheres very well to hot mastic, creating an excellent coating with hydrophobic properties.

How to assemble a "frame" of a concrete floor?

• The reinforcing mesh is never laid directly on the surface. It is raised above the floor by a couple of centimeters. Store-bought coasters can be used, but small cakes made of cement, brick debris do the job well, too.
• The mesh itself with cells 15 × 15 or 10 × 10 can be welded from the reinforcement yourself. A bar thickness of 5 mm is sufficient. But ready-made reinforcing canvases are sold in the construction markets, and are inexpensive - a good option for those who are in a hurry to finish work and do not know how to work with welding.
• It is not necessary to press the mesh tightly to the wall. Along the perimeter between the reinforcing sheet and the walls of the garage, a gap of 5 centimeters should remain. Do the same when laying the floor around the inspection pit with a grid.

How to install concrete floor beacons

• The cement screed is always carried out over the beacons. They are a guarantee of a flat floor. Beacons are installed at a distance of 1.2 or 1.5 m on a pile of solution. Metal profiles or corners are one of the most commonly used materials. If pipes of small diameter (2.5 cm) are chosen as guides, then it is recommended to lubricate them with machine oil.
• The lighthouses should be placed on cement heaps, lined up in a row at intervals of 150 mm. Their even position relative to the horizontal is checked by level. If required, the solution is reported or the pipe is pressed into it. After all the longitudinal guides are set, you can check your work: put several horizontal beacons and evaluate them by level.

• It is necessary to stick a damper tape around the perimeter of the garage. It fills a gap of one or a couple of centimeters between the walls and the screed. The purpose of the tape is to compensate for the pressure of the concrete floor if it "plays" over time. The cement screed will not be damaged and will last a long time.
• At the same stage, a frame is cooked from metal corners to a viewing hole. A 50 × 50 corner is cut into 4 pieces to size and welded into a rectangle. The frame is primed, dried and painted if desired. The finished part is laid on the walls of the pit and, just in case, several temporary spacers are installed inside its perimeter.

How to pour a concrete floor in a garage

• It often happens that the solution is a little short, or excess is formed in large quantities. To save money, you can make a preliminary calculation. The volume of the solution is calculated as follows: the estimated thickness of the concrete floor in the garage is 5 cm, multiplied by the required area. If the base turned out to be 20 m ², then you should count on 2 m ³ of mortar.
• It is better not to save on the strength of the floor, so you need to buy cement M - 500 or M - 400, and make the ratio with sand 1 to 3. That is, you need to take 1 measure of cement for three parts of sifted sand or screenings.

• Density and uniformity are the main indicators of the mixture. It is poured between the lighthouses and leveled using a rule. The mixture should hide the guides, but not lay on top of them in a thick layer. Following the rule along the lighthouses, you should drive the excess solution further. With such an operation, the main thing is to evenly press on both ends of the rule and at the same time move it towards you. This not only flattens the screed, but also thickens it.

Final works

• After a couple of days, the guides must be removed by gently pulling on the ends. It was for this that the pipes were abundantly lubricated with oil. The furrows from the lighthouses are sealed with a cement mixture made up in the same proportions. While the screed is drying, it must be moistened so that it dries evenly and does not crack.
• Some craftsmen put a layer of sawdust and spray water on them. After two weeks, the floor is freed and left to dry without additional manipulation. Full hardening time is about a month.
• The concrete floor in the garage can be covered with ceramic tiles or rubber panels. But even without additional finishing, the concrete floor in the garage will fulfill all the functions: it will be a strong and durable base, which is not afraid of falling tools and stains from technical fluids.

Thus, if you make a concrete floor in the garage with your own hands, its price will be exactly half as much as if you ordered it from a construction organization.

High humidity in the garage threatens the appearance of mold and mildew on its walls, rotting of wooden structural elements, corrosion and rusting of the car body and other metal parts, and it has a destructive effect on the foundation. Usually, the cause of moisture is poor waterproofing of the garage floor, which should protect the room from moisture penetration and prevent cracks. Let's consider in this article how to correctly complete this stage of construction.

When starting the construction of a garage, it should be remembered that it is much cheaper to immediately correctly perform waterproofing in compliance with all the rules and recommendations than to deal with high humidity during the operation of the room and at the same time eliminate all the unpleasant consequences caused by it. Improper waterproofing of the floor can also lead to flooding of the garage with ground or flood waters, and if there is an inspection hole in the structure, moisture will constantly accumulate in it, the evaporation of which will damage the machine parts.

Speaking specifically about the floors, they are much less likely to undergo reconstruction than all other elements, since this procedure is considered quite costly both in terms of finance and labor costs, therefore it is not worth saving at the construction stage, it is better to immediately purchase high-quality materials that can serve for a long time.

The "right" building materials

To prevent the appearance of water in the garage, you need to be very responsible in the choice of materials. In no case should you choose expanded clay, foam and gas blocks, as well as silicate bricks for the construction. In principle, it is not advisable to purchase any brick, since it does not belong to waterproof materials. If the brick layer can still contain a little moisture, then with a constant backwater of groundwater, it is quickly saturated with moisture and collapses. That is why concrete is most often used in the construction of a garage.

On the modern market, there is a huge range of insulation materials that differ in installation technology, price, and duration of use. Bituminous materials, usual in our region, with proper operation, serve up to 10-15 years, and new polymer waterproofing practically does not wear out, which allows them to be laid for the entire service life of the structure. A large number of different membranes are also offered, but when buying them, despite all the assurances of the sellers about the reliability and efficiency, it must be borne in mind that the thickness of such a material cannot be less than 1.5-2 mm. All super thin membranes are not suitable for waterproofing garage floors. In addition, such insulation requires a lot of experience of the performer and specialized equipment, so you should not even try to install it yourself.

Garage floor waterproofing membranes should not be thinner than 1.5 or 2 mm

The main types of waterproofing

Consider the main types of waterproofing:

1. Plastering, or as it is also called coating, is a thin layer of special solutions that prevent moisture penetration.
2. Oleechnaya - roll or sheet materials glued to hot mastics, for example, bitumen.
3. Penetrating, the youngest type of waterproofing. In this case, the surface to be treated is impregnated with liquid water-repellent solutions.
4. Powder waterproofing is a cross between the first and third types.

General floor waterproofing technology

After the place for the construction of the garage is marked out, all the soil in this area is carefully compacted. This prevents it from settling during operation. Now a layer of coarse-grained sand about a meter thick is applied to this area, which also needs to be tamped. Next, a "layered" structure is laid on the sand, consisting of three layers of geotextile, while a waterproofing material must be laid between the lower and middle, and a layer of thermal insulation between the middle and upper. Now you can start laying the floors.

It is best to make a concrete floor in garages. To increase resistance to damage, it can be reinforced, while the iron frame must be welded so that its structure is inseparable. The thickness of the concrete layer should not be less than 15 cm.

It is advisable to carry out waterproofing of the foundation and floor in garages during the construction period, since these elements are least often reconstructed.

Additional waterproofing in garages

Consider a garage without a basement first. In this case, it is sufficient to prevent moisture penetration into the lower part of the walls along the entire perimeter of the building. For this, horizontal waterproofing is performed from two layers of roofing material glued to the wall and to each other with hot bitumen mastic. This layer must be laid above ground level at the junction of the walls and foundation.

Before waterproofing a garage with a basement, it is imperative to take measures to prevent the ingress of groundwater and capillary moisture into it. To do this, add vertical waterproofing to the above method, extending under the outer walls. As a rule, it is located at the level of the lower part of the foundation and captures the outer edges of the outer basement walls. One of the most effective methods is the application of a layer of cement to the outer side of the foundation and processing it with hot mastic in two layers.

Applying bitumen mastic to the outer part of the basement part of the garage to exclude the penetration of atmospheric moisture and capillary suction

When the basement floor is placed below the groundwater level, there is a risk of flooding. In this case, the process of waterproofing the basement and garage floor is somewhat complicated. After all the above measures for waterproofing the lower part of the foundation have been taken, the basement floor must be concreted and its surface must be leveled using a screed. Now you need to stick two layers of roll or sheet waterproofing on the bitumen, while it is imperative to connect the places of their contact with the layers of insulating material previously laid under the garage foundation with hot mastic. Similarly, we connect the vertical waterproofing applied to the outer surface of the outer walls with the one located under the foundation. After that, you can proceed to waterproofing the garage floor.

Video: the use of liquid rubber

Waterproofing the floor in the garage should be taken seriously and it is better if it is performed by real professionals, since only they are able to take into account all the features of the area, reliably prevent flooding of the structure and eliminate the high humidity in it.

Before proceeding with the repair or construction of the floor in the garage, it is necessary to waterproof it. This process is not at all complicated, but necessary, and depending on the type of floor it is done in different ways. After all, if you do not waterproof the floor in the garage, moisture from the ground will seep into the room and lead to the destruction of both the garage structure itself and to the decay of the vehicle. Ventilation may improve the situation a little, but it will not completely correct it.

Waterproofing the concrete floor of the garage on the ground

In order to make a concrete garage floor on the ground, it is imperative to make waterproofing. And they do it when you start preparing the base for the floors.

In this case, you can use ordinary plastic wrap with a thickness of 0.5 to 1 millimeter for waterproofing. Do not forget that you need to overlap the film and leave stocks of about ten fifteen centimeters on the walls. Lay the polyethylene evenly, there should be no holes or any tears on it, because then there will be absolutely no point in waterproofing.

Since the average width of the garage is about two meters, then the whip of one sheet to another should be fifty centimeters and it must be glued together with masking tape.

Waterproofing of a concrete floor over the slab

In this case, you can use sheets of roofing material or bitumen mastic for waterproofing. But do not forget that if your garage has a viewing hole, then such waterproofing will not bring any benefit. It is done then if the pit is in another room, but even then there is not much sense from waterproofing.

The best way to waterproof if you have a basement is in the basement itself. And for this, the very first method of waterproofing, that is, using a plastic film, will be suitable for you. After all, if you do not do waterproofing at all and the groundwater rises, then you will have to think about additional waterproofing. And for this, it will be necessary to use roofing material or bitumen mastic, and make a concrete floor screed on top.

Waterproofing a garage floor on a concrete base

Before proceeding with waterproofing on a concrete base, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. We clean the concrete base of dust and dirt, carefully sweeping out all the corners, and then coat it with a special compound so that the following words stick better. Also, do not forget that the walls need to be treated this way, because waterproofing will also be applied to the edges.

The primer, that is, the composition for gluing the layers, is applied with a special large swing brush, carefully rubbing it into the floor and the bottom of the wall. Look carefully so that there are no empty, not missed places. The floor should become uniformly black, this is one of the important procedures. You can buy a primer at a hardware store, it is sold in a metal bucket, and do not forget to warm it up before applying.

After you have applied a layer and evenly painted over the floor, spread the roll roofing felt. Do not forget to lay 15-20 centimeters on the walls, and overlap the sheets, it should be at least 10-15 centimeters. If you want, you can make the overlap on the walls even more, because this is a garage. After the roofing material has been glued, it must be impregnated.

Of course, ready-made mastic will serve as the best waterproofing, but it is dangerous to work with it. Before proceeding, you must carefully read the instructions and follow only them. To speed up the work on applying the mastic, you can take about 50 cm of the board and nail a strip of about two meters to it, with the help of such a mop you can smooth out the mastic before gluing the roofing material. Do not forget to process the roofing material joint carefully.

Additional Information:

• Not everyone knows about the need for waterproofing a concrete floor on the ground, as well as why and what it is used for. For…
• Waterproofing the floor in a private house must be done so that the excess moisture contained in the soil does not harm the structure. Waterproofing ...
• Waterproofing the basement floor of a house is one of the important measures, because the basement is the room in which a leak can happen most quickly ...
• Faced with the problem of floor repair, many do not know the rules of the technology for covering the concrete floor in the garage, as well as the thickness ...

Waterproofing they call the protection of the premises from the ingress of groundwater, precipitation and chemical liquids inside. She may be external and internal... Floors, vertical surfaces and roofs are covered with waterproofing materials.

How to waterproof a garage?

Waterproofing works must be carried out from the beginning of the construction of the garage. Errors made when waterproofing the foundation, then very difficult to fix... Most people choose roofing material and bitumen alloys as materials. Of course, their service life does not exceed 10 years, but on the other hand, it does not require large cash costs. You can purchase formulations with polymers that will last 2 or even 3 times longer.

For a start it is worth taking care of protection of the foundation... On a sand and gravel bed around the perimeter of the room, where the foundation blocks will stand, roll materials are rolled out. After the foundation is poured or installed, the surfaces are treated with polymer-bitumen mastics both from the outside and from the outside.

The same compositions are suitable and to protect the floor... For additional external protection can be used clay castle... Therefore, the foundation pit exceeds in terms of area, the size of the garage.

If the basement in the garage was not provided, then you can horizontal waterproofing of the garage do it yourself. The concrete floor is covered with roofing material or a layer of bitumen-polymer mastic, then reinforcement is installed on the weight (supports are used), the metal structure is again poured with liquid concrete.

Watch the video on how it looks waterproofing garage do it yourself:

How to check the water table?

When there is no idea at what level the groundwater is at the construction site, then it makes no sense to start it, as it will be akin to building a "castle on the sand". First you need to look around the area, if there are any wells nearby. The water level in them will indicate at what depth the underground waters are. But the lack of wells is not a cause for panic.

Next step: study of vegetation on the surface of the earth. Moss, reeds, pussy willow and other plants, which grow primarily in marshy lowlands, report that groundwater is located close to the earth's surface. To make sure that your guesses are reliable, there is one more and, perhaps, the surest way to check: well drilling.

If everything is confirmed, then you need to think carefully before building a garage with close water. After all, it will take a lot of effort to build high-quality waterproofing.

Clay castle

Clay castle- this is a layer of clay, which covers the bottom and walls of the pit so that moisture does not violate the integrity of the walls, floor and water does not enter the garage from the outside. This is a necessary measure if a viewing hole and a basement are provided in the drawing. The pit in which the foundation blocks will be installed must provide for free space between the foundation and the ground, in which the clay will be laid in layers.

The clay is spread over the floor, forming a layer of approximately in 100 mm., gravel is laid on it, then a sand cushion. It will be installed foundation.

But before that, it is necessary to make the walls of the pit waterproof.

For this, balls - "apples" are made from wet clay, which are flattened from 2 sides and leveled along the walls of the pit. Clay layer thickness - from 5 to 10 cm.

What is the best clay to use for a clay castle? It should have a fairly high percentage of fat - not less than 15%.

It is very simple to check whether the natural material is suitable for the castle or not: you need to add a little water to the clay and knead it, turning it into a pliable lump.

If cracks form, then the clay is too dry... A smooth surface indicates that the clay can be used to keep out water. To increase the plasticity of the material, builders add to it 20% lime.

It's even better when the clay is harvested from autumn and will lie under the snow during the winter months. During this time, water particles will be able to penetrate the clay at the molecular level, transforming it into a plastic, pliable mass.

But there is one caveat: in severe frosts, the walls of the pit can freeze through, and in this state the clay "swells", increasing in volume and can deform the walls of the room itself.

Waterproofing of foundation blocks and inspection pit

As options, compositions are considered that, in a molten state, can be applied to the surface of the foundation or roll materials. They can also be used for waterproofing garage ceiling and floor.

Bitumen in a heated state, they are applied to the walls with a roller, paying special attention to the joints. The cracks can be covered with bitumen mastic, to which you need to add a little gasoline. The problem is that when applied to walls, the bituminous material does not adhere well to the working surface. Therefore, for a start, the foundation blocks are treated with a composition that plays the role primers.

It is called - primer and consists of gasoline and bitumen. On such a solution, a layer of pure bitumen will settle firmly.

Another option, in which rolls of roofing material are used, is no less effective. Vertical surfaces must first be cleaned of dirt and dust, apply primer, lubricate with molten bitumen, and then apply roofing material to the hot mass - bitumen acts as glue.

It should be borne in mind that when laying such materials, joints are formed, therefore, pieces of roofing material are stacked overlapping each other. Overlap width - not less than 10 cm.

When waterproof protection is installed on the foundation blocks, you can proceed to the brickwork of the walls.

It is unpleasant when, in the event of a violation of technology or errors during construction, some points were not taken into account, and a moisture.

What materials can be used to protect the walls and floors in this case?

• polymer membranes;
• penetrating compounds;
• roll materials;
• liquid rubber.

The life of polymer membranes is not limited, but they are expensive in terms of cost. The joints between them have to be fastened hot air... Penetrating formulations are available in the form of powders. They are diluted with a little water. When the composition becomes homogeneous, it is applied to the work surface.

Roll materials are stacked in several layers overlapping each other. The joints are glued molten bitumen... When laying, liquid rubber creates a layer equivalent to 4 layers of roofing material. This is a very effective way to protect yourself.

Protection of walls and floors in the basement from the inside

When waterproofing a garage from the inside from groundwater, two types of protection are used:

• injection (penetrating);
• coating.

For waterproofing the floor, hydrophobic materials are used (roofing material, mastic, etc.), on which it is then poured concrete screed... If cracks in the floor were noticed before work, then the screed is performed after the reinforcement has been installed. It will not allow materials to deform. In the place of joints and the floor, you can install bentonite cord- it will swell and prevent moisture from entering the room.

The wall in the garage is leaking, what should I do?

If you are interested in how to waterproof a wall in a garage, then things are a little more complicated here.

The most effective waterproofing method is use of penetrating materials.

But this will require special equipment for pumping the composition into the previously made holes in the wall. The method is quite expensive and time-consuming, therefore, to protect the walls of the basement in the garage, they are often used coating materials.

Such compositions contain polymers, which, when cured, form a durable moisture-proof layer. But before that:

• walls must be thoroughly cleaned of dust, dirt;
• dry the work surfaces;
• if the walls are made of blocks, expand the walls by 5-10 mm. and fill the resulting gaps with a coating material;
• apply the composition in a continuous layer on the walls.

Compositions are in demand "Penetron", "Hydrohit", "Maxil" and etc.

What to do if water gets into the garage?

Garage rainwater or ground water- not yet a reason to panic. A properly installed drainage system will allow water to drain away without getting into the room. There are 2 drainage systems:

• external;
• internal.

The essence of the first is that you need to dig deep trench 40 cm wide. around the outer perimeter of the garage. The bottom of the trench should be approximately 40 cm below the floor level. Wells are drilled every 2 meters to the depth of the parent sand. They are equipped with polymer pipes, previously wrapped in geotextiles.

Pipe outlets should be protected with a fine welded grating to prevent solids from entering. At the bottom of the trench is laid geotextile, then crushed stone is poured and its layer must be wrapped with the edges of geotextile. The trench is covered with gravel.

The internal drainage system differs in that the work takes place indoors... To dig a trench, you need open the floor... The trench is obtained with a shallow depth - 40-50 cm. Pipes with a diameter of 20-110 mm. stacked horizontally. Each of them should have holes of 4-5 mm. all over the pipe.

For each meter, 3 mm is observed. slope. The pipes are laid on a layer of crushed stone. They should be directed towards drain well, which you can buy ready-made or make yourself.

From above, the pipes are again covered with rubble, wrapped in geotextiles and covered with sand. The drain well is equipped with pump, which is triggered when the water in it reaches a critical mark.

Pit walls can be crafted liquid rubber... During the spraying process, it forms a durable waterproof layer with a thickness of 1-3 mm. After the first spraying, the steps can be repeated. Such protection is not afraid of temperature extremes or water. She serves up to 50 years.

The garage is leaking: what to do? One must properly cover krsha. If you want to know more, watch the video below:

Which waterproofing method choose, decide the owner of the garage. If at the construction stage all the details and trifles were provided, then repeated waterproofing work will be needed only after a few years. If the garage leaks after a few months, then this indicates that during the construction mistakes.

Already in the process of building a garage, it is necessary to think about the issue of waterproofing the premises, having followed all the rules and recommendations for this type of work. However, there are times when the owner of the garage simply did not know about it or bought a garage with missing waterproofing from another owner. In any case, do not get upset and despair, as this problem can be easily eliminated. Waterproofing a floor is not an extremely difficult process today. We will tell you how to make waterproofing of a concrete floor in a garage with your own hands, provide step-by-step instructions, as well as photos and videos.

It is worth listing several reasons why waterproofing is an integral part of garage construction:

• Dampness will cause your vehicle to corrode.
• Moisture will ruin everything stored in the garage, including food, vegetables, and tools.
• Waterproofing protects the room from moisture and moisture penetration, bringing comfort and coziness here.
• Waterproofing helps to increase the service life of equipment and any household items in the garage.

Waterproofing materials

Currently on the market there is a wide range of waterproofing materials that are optimal for the garage floor. Each of these materials has an individual way of laying and has its own characteristics.

In most cases, a polyurethane-based mastic is used. Such polymer waterproofing can last for a very long period of time, preventing the penetration of moisture into the room.

As for bituminous materials, they are able to provide reliable garage protection for up to 15 years. All you need to do is select quality materials and install them correctly.

Polymer membranes are also in great demand due to their high resistance to water. At the same time, the process of working with a membrane is considered a rather complex process that requires special skills and knowledge.

How to make

To date, there are several ways to waterproof the floor. Among them, the most common are:

• plaster waterproofing (special solutions are used, which should be applied in a thin layer);
• pasting waterproofing (roll materials are laid on hot mastics);
• powder waterproofing (a dry mixture is used, which includes plasticizers, cement and synthetic resins).

There are also vertical and horizontal waterproofing. The first type becomes necessary with the existence of a basement, due to which additional methods of protection from moisture are needed. The second type is arranged if the basement is absent or is not used for any purpose.

Waterproofing technology

The technology is quite simple, so you can do it yourself without the help of professionals.

Note! At the preparatory stage of work, it is necessary to clean the floor surface from dust and accumulated dirt. Otherwise, any foreign substances can prevent the penetration of chemically active elements of the material into the concrete surface.

In some cases, it will be necessary to moisten the floor, and only this should proceed directly to the installation of waterproofing.

Before pouring the base with a concrete screed, roofing material is placed on it, its joints should be treated with bituminous mastic. The soil in your chosen area should be well compacted. Thus, you exclude the possibility of shrinkage under the weight of the concrete slab.

The surface of the screed can also be protected from moisture penetration by coating it with a water-repellent solution. Additional penetrating waterproofing is also allowed. After drying, the material becomes an integral part of the concrete structure with impeccable water resistance. Processing allows the material to breathe, and is absolutely harmless to human health.

Have you already waterproofed your garage floor yourself? Share your experience with us by leaving a comment on the article.

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