Cold in a bathhouse is a necessary and useful thing, if of course it is in the form of a tub of ice water or a bucket of snow, in any other case it is a real disaster. It should be noted that this trouble is not the rarest one that lovers of brooms and steam have to face.

It's all in the oven

Not a high temperature in a steam room is common, many of us are generally supporters warm bath, but, as they say, everything should be in moderation. When, after throwing water on, there is no smell of steam, or it immediately evaporates, or your feet freeze on the floor, then this is no longer the case.

Let's try to figure out what are the reasons for this phenomenon and whether it is possible to do something.

It's all in the oven

I think that we need to start with it, because it is initially the source of heating. The type, design and location of the furnace certainly plays an important role in this.

Factory ones usually do not have problems with good warming up, which cannot be said about homemade ones. An incorrectly welded stove like this can bring problems instead of saving money. The absence of an ash pan, a deflector, a poorly designed firebox or chimney lead to the fact that water and stones simply do not reach the desired temperature.

Once I had a chance to visit one bathhouse with just such a stove - while it was heated, it seemed like nothing, as soon as the wood burned out it immediately became cooler. Therefore, it is very important to properly manage the heat received from the firewood: the fire should not just fly away into the chimney, it should warm up the water tank and the niche with stones.

In general, if such a stove does not cope with its task, we can recommend the following:

— the water tank should be placed on top of the firebox, and not on the side,
— warm up the stones directly,
- close the bowl with stones completely or partially,
- Install a valve on the chimney pipe.

Factory heaters usually have no problems with this, but there is another problem - they do not retain heat. Why is this point so important, it’s simple - quick heating is not enough, you also need to keep the heat for a long period, otherwise it will be a bathhouse for one.

This is achieved by increasing the amount of material capable of accumulating heat and releasing it gradually, and not instantly, as is the case with metal. For expensive models, this function is performed by convector casings made of stone; for budget products, the solution would be: partial brick lining, hanging a samovar-type water tank or a mesh with stones on the chimney, moving the chimney duct from the center to the side or to back wall(if provided for by the design).

Increasing the mass of stones in the heater will not give any results - their top layer simply will not be able to warm up to the required temperature

It wouldn’t hurt to read the instructions, although many people don’t like to do this. For example, some manufacturers indicate that the maximum t is achieved by completely filling the firebox with firewood and completely opening the ash pan. In general, take into account the features of your heater and learn to use it correctly.

We should not forget about the performance of the stove, because each model is designed to heat a certain volume of the bath/steam room. By purchasing or making heating device, you always need to figure out whether it can provide the required temperature regime.

As for those made of brick, the situation here is this - good heaters heat up quickly enough and retain heat for a very long time. But such creations expensive pleasure, after all, not every stove maker can fold it correctly, but he will charge quite a lot for his work. Here is one master I know who answered my question - how much will a small but high-quality stove cost me - well, 200 thousand rubles. How do you like this figure?

That’s why many people who don’t recognize modern potbelly stoves try to build the stove themselves, and not everyone gets the desired result. When laying them on your own, mistakes are often made. Incorrectly executed smoke circulation, firebox lining or the wrong cross-section of the well guarantee weak or too long heating. In this case, you can suggest making a combined oven - well, at least like this.

Poor ventilation

Let’s say you are completely confident in the performance of your stove, but it’s cold in the bathhouse! In this case, let's pay attention to ventilation.
In the old days, when they didn’t know what insulation, double-glazed windows or self-leveling floors were, no one thought about ventilation, the air itself seeped in and also went out through the ceiling powder. Yes and space village bathhouse not divided into two or more rooms. Now everything is different, which requires a modern approach.

Separation of zones with careful insulation of each of them is simply not possible without properly arranged ventilation, otherwise the air will just stand - cold at the bottom, hot at the top. Our task is to make it circulate, thereby distributing the heat where we need it.

This is usually done like this: a small window is installed in the partition of the steam room with the washing room; it connects the two closed premises. In the washing room, usually near the stove, they do vent which is led through the floor into the steam room by a channel or corrugation. The system arranged in this way works as follows: heated air from the stones enters the room, and is replaced by cold air through the lower hole into the steam room.

It became warm in the washing room or they went to take a steam bath - the top window was closed.

This system can be modified and linked to a leaking floor, but more on that below.

Attention to the foundation and floor

Often the cause of coolness in the bathhouse is a cold floor, and the roots of this problem go back to the very beginning of the construction of the building, and they are different for rustic and modern buildings.

Typical for rural baths strip foundation, earthen subfloor and leaking wooden floor. This is where we proceed in solving the problem.

The space under the boards itself does not freeze even in very coldy(For chopped bath), so to keep your feet from freezing, do the following:

• We increase the space between the floor and the ground a little. This can be done in two ways - make the foundation higher or remove a layer of earth.
• WITH inside Sprinkle the concrete/brick tape around the perimeter with sand or expanded clay.
• Make a pile on all sides outside.
• Do not lay the floor boards close to the frame or to each other; we also leave a gap near the stove.
• Make the floor slightly higher than the base of the heater.

Modern frame buildings, as well as from bricks or blocks, all this may not help, especially since in most of them you will not find simple drain water to the ground. They are equipped with concrete bowls with a system for collecting and draining water to the outside. Moreover, many began to do this not only in the washing room, but throughout the entire contour of the bathhouse.

In such buildings, t under the floor is often equal to that on the street, i.e. at -20 degrees in winter, after a week's absence, you will have almost the same amount under the floor. What happens - you turn on the stove, after an hour and a half it’s already hot, but downstairs it’s still cold.

It is better not to insulate the foundation from the inside with various types of foam-based materials - this threatens the appearance of condensation on the surface of the tape.
Including the floor in the ventilation system, which has already been written about above, will be very effective. In the washing room we make the floor leaky (in this case a special hole is not needed) and partially the same in the steam room. The heated air passes through the window into wash room, heats this room, cools down and is drawn back into the steam room through the cracks in the floor. By circulating in this way, the air warms the floor and underground space much faster.

For those who have a monolithic screed, we can only advise laying a water or electric floor; adding layers of insulation to the base will not give the desired effect.

Let's warm ourselves up

As they say, no matter how much you flood the street, it will not get warmer, so let’s pay attention to how you are doing with thermal insulation.

Baths made of stone, frame, panel and timber necessarily require insulation from the inside and outside.

Inside this process carried out using a long-established technology (there are plenty of visual videos on YouTube) - frame, vapor barrier, mineral insulation, foil, lining, so we won’t focus on this.

For greater reliability, it is advisable to carry out appropriate work on the outer walls of the bathhouse - they consist of laying wind protection and securing protective material from precipitation.

In log houses, the points of heat loss are: doors, windows, inter-crown grooves and the ceiling. Unlike the above buildings, in bathhouses made of round timber there is no need to completely insulate the walls. They already retain heat perfectly, and there is no point in covering such beauty; it will be enough to decorate only the steam room with eurolining.

Insulation work in such a bath is as follows:

- caulk inside and outside,
- insulation of doors and windows,
- ceiling insulation.

If you don’t need to sheathe the walls, then the ceiling is a must. This can be done only from the inside, only from the outside, or both.

From the side of the room, it will be enough to attach aluminum foil or kraft paper to the rough ceiling, on top of which with a small air gap attach the lining. On the side of the attic space, you can lay insulation or backfill.

Here, in general, are all the main points for improving your bathhouse. Of course, we must admit that some of them simply will not suit you, others will be difficult to implement, and others will not be effective, but this is how each building should have its own approach, its own characteristics.

Share your thoughts with us, we will be happy to.

Useful video on this topic.

The presence of a bathhouse on the territory of a country house or dacha today has become the rule rather than the exception. Find the right one standard project for construction or develop your own design, you can resort to Internet resources or contact specialists. At the same time, the requirements for preventing heat losses during the use of such a room and minimizing heating costs remain unchanged. In this regard, any design of a bath room includes an emphasis on thermal insulation of the walls, ceiling and floor of the room.

Bathhouse on personal plot

Information about floor insulation

The insulation of bathhouse floors has been the subject of attention since ancient times. For this we used available materials: jute, linen materials and moss. Such insulation materials did not have the properties to counteract fungal formations and did not prevent the rotting of wooden structures, but they retained heat. Currently on construction market countries, a variety of insulation products are available. But to maintain heat in the bathhouse, they must meet the following requirements:

• absence of toxicity, the occurrence of which is associated with high temperature conditions bath room, and emissions of chemical vapors can lead to human poisoning and sometimes death;
• low hygroscopicity is necessary for using a bath with a critical level of humidity and inadmissibility large quantity drying time when the room is cooled;
• Possibility of use in rooms with high temperatures without modification performance characteristics, volume, thermal insulation properties;
• at long-term operation there should be no need for special maintenance of the insulation to maintain practical properties.

Placement of floor insulation

Important! When purchasing insulation for a bathhouse, you must carefully read the technical properties of the material and documents confirming the product’s compliance with the properties declared by the manufacturer. Information about the use of the selected insulation by builders or other bathhouse owners will not be superfluous.

Characteristics of materials for floor insulation

Currently, insulation materials such as mineral wool, expanded polystyrene, wooden floors s coverings – expanded clay. Each of the materials is used in certain areas of construction and has the following practical properties:

1. Expanded polystyrene. Produced in the form flat slabs of various thicknesses. Used for thermal insulation of rooms with a base floor made of concrete structures(screeds) and wooden floors. The price is commensurate with the quality of the material. At the same time, installation is not difficult - adjusting the slabs and changing the size is carried out using construction knife. But it is not recommended to use this insulation for bathhouses, because when heated, it can release chemical fumes that have a detrimental effect on the human body.
2. Mineral wool. It is a “budget” insulation. There are various samples and varieties of material on the construction market. It is effective in use, has a long service life, and good fire-preventing properties. But to use in rooms with high level humidity is not recommended due to the loss of material in such conditions technical properties. In the absence of suitable insulation, installation is possible only with additional waterproofing.

Insulating mineral wool

1. Perlite. Friable material with good thermal insulation characteristics. Used as a mixture of water and cement, evenly distributed over the surface, followed by the formation of a smooth surface. concrete screed.
2. "Penoplex". Characterized by a long service life, good qualities thermal insulation, environmentally friendly, but installation involves gluing the slabs onto a concrete or similar surface.

Appearance"Penoplex"

1. Expanded clay. Clay mixtures are used for the base material. Classified as environmentally bladeless compounds with high performance thermal insulation, fire resistant. It seems to be a promising insulation material for bathhouses.

Features of expanded clay

The appearance of expanded clay is oval granules. It is produced using clay firing technology at high temperatures. Insulation on the market is presented in a sand composition or in the form of gravel. Sand, the fractions of which range from 0.14 – 5.0 mm, is used in the manufacture building mixtures or as insulation for the ceiling. Gravel (5.0 -14.0 mm) is used for floor insulation, including bath rooms.

Appearance of expanded clay

The advantages include the following qualities:

Along with others insulation materials The disadvantage is the need for mandatory waterproofing equipment and long installation times. However preliminary preparation materials and accessories, consistent and proper organization Work time is minimized significantly.

Important! When purchasing insulation from expanded clay granules, it is necessary to calculate the volume of space to be filled. If this is not possible, then the material must be purchased in reserve. Residues after insulating the bathhouse floor can be used to insulate attic floors.

Expanded clay insulation technology

Do-it-yourself insulation of the floor in a bathhouse with expanded clay is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Cement, sand, expanded clay of various fractions are purchased in advance, vapor barrier material. Prepare accessories for marking, a tool for distributing mixtures, and a container for preparing working solutions.
2. Clean the surface of the insulated bath floor from old decorative covering. If it is missing, level the ground and carry out thorough compaction. Wooden floors are treated with antiseptic agents.
3. To prevent moisture absorption into the expanded clay, waterproofing is provided. Used for this special materials or fat plastic film, the installation of which is carried out with an overlap on the walls of the room above the line of insulation placement. After the final installation of the insulation, the excess waterproofing is cut to the required length. The film joints are connected using standard tape or another method.

Laying waterproofing under floor insulation

1. Ensure the same height for laying insulation on the floor surface by aligning construction lighthouses. The technology for their installation is standard, taking into account the filling height of expanded clay granules of at least 150.0 mm. In this case, it is necessary to provide for a slope of the coating towards the sewer drain.
2. Expanded clay granules are filled to the level of the “beacons” by sequential compaction of the sections. It is allowed to lay expanded clay in packaging bags without breaking the integrity. The gaps are filled with a scattering of composition.
3. In order to strengthen the insulating cushion made of expanded clay, reinforcement is carried out with a special mixture, the composition of which includes cement in a ratio of two parts to three sand with water up to 20 percent by weight. Ready-made composition evenly fill the voids between the granules. This technology involves additional protection from moisture penetration and strengthens the insulation layer, preventing subsidence. Builders call the mixture “milk.”
4. After completely dry"milk" begin work on the formation of a concrete screed, the thickness of which is 30.0 - 40.0 mm. There are no special requirements for the screed.
5. If the flooring is supposed to be made of wooden planks, then the insulation is placed in the niches between the joists with preliminary laying of a protective polymer film in them.

Important! To proceed to work after pouring the “milk” or concrete screed, it is necessary to ensure that the compositions are completely dry. The timing varies depending on the temperature and humidity of the room. To speed up the drying process, arrange through ventilation. Lack of ventilation can lead to the release of moisture on the main floor covering and reduce its service life while deteriorating its appearance.

Based on the above information, we can conclude that the point of view of individual owners about the optional insulation of the bathhouse from the floor side is associated with significant costs of money and time - wrong. They will more than pay for themselves in a comfortable time spent indoors with warm floors and a hot steam room. The absence of heat loss will allow you to warm up the bath faster and with less energy, and the heat will remain for a longer period. At the same time, floor insulation work does not require the owner to have any special training - household skills and tools available in a country house are sufficient.

The procedure for carrying out work by floor insulation specialists is presented in the video below.

Procedure for floor insulation.

A cold floor in a bathhouse is a common problem when using this room. This situation is explained by the extremely unfavorable operating conditions of the coating and, accordingly, of all building materials and architectural structures. The floor is always wet, which increases the thermal conductivity of surfaces. How to fix this problem? Read more below.

There are several factors that negatively affect the floor temperature in a bathhouse:

• lack of thermal insulation or its thickness is incorrectly selected;
• violation of thermal insulation sealing;
• non-compliance with flooring technology in the bathhouse.

These are just a few reasons, each building may have its own nuances. Before specifically considering the problem of a cold floor in a bathhouse, you need to learn a little about the specific requirements for coatings. This knowledge will allow you to avoid mistakes at the construction stage (and this is the most the best way solutions to the cold floor problem) or take right decisions for insulation already during the operation of the bathhouse.

Table. Specific requirements for the construction of the floor in the bathhouse.

Name, photo	Short description
	The floors in the bathhouse have long-term direct contact with water in conditions elevated temperature. These conditions are the most favorable for the development of putrefactive processes and fungi. It should be borne in mind that currently there are no impregnations that can completely protect lumber for a long period of time. Only the integrated use of various construction and technological measures guarantees long-term use of the bathhouse.
	There is no point in hoping that problems with rotting lumber can be solved only by impregnation with antiseptics or sealing; even theoretically they cannot guarantee long-term positive result. Natural ventilation, accordingly, cools the floors, this must be taken into account during their installation. But there is no way to do without it.
	To do this, you have to install drains sewer pipes, make receivers or settling tanks, etc. All these engineering Communication making the arrangement of floors in the bathhouse even more difficult.

It is very difficult to make a high-quality, durable and at the same time warm floor in a bathhouse, even using the most modern building materials and technologies. What did our ancestors do? Very simple. For the floors, logs sawn in half were used. coniferous species wood, the thickness of the coating reached 15–20 cm. Due to this, they did not freeze, were not afraid of underground ventilation, and remained strong for several decades. After 30–50 years, the frame rose, the rotten floorboards and lower crowns replaced with new ones. After such repairs, the bathhouse again served regularly for several decades. Currently, this technology is not used for various reasons. What to do if you need to insulate the floor of a bathhouse in use?

Step-by-step instructions for repairing a cold floor

First, let's consider the most labor-intensive option for floor repair; it requires not only a loss of time, but also money. With a properly organized process and availability practical experience It will take approximately two to three days to complete the work. The floor was made without insulation from edged boards, the water drained through the cracks between them. IN winter period time came through the cracks cold air, which created inconvenience during adoption water procedures. Insulation work is carried out in several stages.

The first stage is the dismantling of old coatings

Step 1. Remove the old floor. If the boards are screwed to load-bearing beams screws, you will have to unscrew them. Use it electric drill or a cordless screwdriver. Hardware can be reused; use a handkerchief cup to collect them. If the floor is on nails, then use a nail puller. To reduce damage to the boards, place pieces of boards under the metal part of the tool when pulling out nails.

Dismantling the floor - unscrewing the screws

When unscrewing the screws, firmly press the sprocket against the heads; do not be afraid that the hardware will turn on the threads. Problems arise when the tool is not pressed against the head enough. The star rotates in the recesses of the cap and smoothes its edges. It becomes very difficult to unscrew such a self-tapping screw, and to pull out the threaded part using a nail puller without damaging it wooden elements impossible. In the best case, the head will tear out a piece of the board; in the worst case, the joists or supporting beams will have to be changed.

Step 2. Remove the boards and inspect the condition of the wooden floor structures. In most cases will be visible problem areas, eliminate them before starting work. If serious damage to the beams is discovered, they will have to be replaced with new ones.

Step 3. Unscrew the floor joists. They are fixed with metal squares and self-tapping screws; removing the structures is not difficult. As before, collect old screws in a container; the hardware will come in handy in the future, and you won’t need to buy new ones.

Step 4. Using an electric planer, remove the top damaged layer from the beams and process the lumber until completely healthy wood appears. There is no need to specifically control the thickness of the logs; lumber may differ slightly in size. All the same, in the future their planes will not be located on the same line, but will lie at an angle.

Step 5. Remove mold from the wall trim boards around the perimeter of the bathhouse. To do this, you can use toilet cleaners that contain acid. It perfectly disinfects lumber and destroys mold roots. To enhance the effect, you can repeatedly wipe the surfaces of the boards with ordinary table vinegar.

Step 6. Install heat gun and thoroughly dry the surface of the floor and walls. If desired, dry boards can be soaked again with factory-made antiseptics and dried.

Everything is coated with used antiseptic.

After repairs, it is recommended to drain the water into the sewer; this method prevents the surfaces of the lumber from getting wet and is highly recommended professional builders. Do not rush to start repairs, give time for all surfaces to dry. If everything is normal, then you can lay a new, now insulated floor.

Stage two – laying a new floor

The floor will be laid with a slight slope, the water will be drained into a special tray located at the far wall.

Step 1. Determine the angle of the floor. To do this, use a long, flat board. Place it along the room from the bathhouse door to the drain tray. First, determine the position of the skirting boards; you can use ordinary cheap plastic elements with flexible rubber sides at the bottom. The sides will prevent water from entering wood paneling bath walls.

Practical advice. Much easier to work with laser level. If it is not there, then the markings can be made with a water level, but you will have to work with an assistant and lose more time.

The upper plane of the skirting boards should be 1–1.5 cm below the threshold level, otherwise they may be damaged when walking. Find these lines and subtract the height of the baseboard from them. This will be the floor level front door. The slope of the floor should be within a centimeter per meter. There is no need to do more; too much of a slope creates inconvenience when walking on the floor.

Step 2. Decide on the installation location of the tray, measure its length and cut the adjacent boards to size.

Step 3. Install the logs with an inclination towards the tray. To do this, first put the two outer ones in place, stretch the rope between them and secure all the remaining ones along it. Instead of a rope, you can use a long, flat strip or board, but it is more difficult to work with them. Fix the logs not only to the lower strapping crown, but also to the concrete foundation strip, use for this metal corners and dowels. The best option fastenings - two corners on each side of the log and one at the bottom. If the design does not allow the logs to be lowered for tilting, then they need to be sawed at the bottom; the depth of the cut must correspond to the angle of inclination of the floor. If deviations from the plane are detected, you can use shims. There is no need to worry that they will sag over time; the logs are firmly held in place by three metal corners.

Practical advice. If you do not have a special tray for floors, then you can use an ordinary street one. To do this, before installing the grinder with a metal disc, remove the vertical stiffening ribs, this will make it possible to place the boards under the tray.

Step 4. Place the prepared tray in place. If its width is less than the distance between the joists, then the gap should be closed. You can use boards or durable extruded polystyrene foam for this. The second material is much easier to work with, and great strength is not needed to fix the tray. Check the slope and position of all joists again with a laser level. If all parameters are within normal limits, then you can continue working on flooring.

To install the tray on the boards, their ends should be prepared and chamfered. The width and depth depend on the size of the sides of the trays. Before installation, the ends of the boards and all fresh cuts must be treated with antiseptics; you can soak them several times in sunflower oil. Before fixing the boards, coat the landing sites with a high-quality sealant. The point is to make perfectly even seats very difficult, it is much easier to use sealant for these purposes. The tray is screwed to the boards with small self-tapping screws. After fixing, it is also recommended to seal the drain perimeter. Pay great attention to these places. This is where water accumulates and lingers for a long time. Getting the boards wet at the ends is a very unpleasant situation. Moisture travels through capillaries to great depths, drying takes a long time, and there are not enough breaks between bath procedures. As a result, the boards rot, the tray collapses, and the floor in the bathhouse requires repair.

Practical advice. It is strongly recommended to insulate the side surfaces of the foundation along the perimeter; fix polystyrene foam on them using any method available to you. Don't forget to leave holes for ventilation, this required condition duration of operation of the bath.

Step 5. Connect the drain pipes to drainage containers. It may be buried upside down metal barrels capacity 100–200 l. Use a grinder to cut holes on the sides of the barrels to allow water to drain out. In order to completely prevent freezing of water in pipelines, insulate them with soft polystyrene foam. But you don't have to do this warm water and the pipes do not have time to freeze during water procedures. Moreover, the angle of inclination of the pipelines is large and the water quickly goes into the barrels.

The third stage - floor insulation

To insulate the floor in a bathhouse, it is better to use polystyrene foam rather than mineral wool. The fact is that mineral wool is very afraid of increased humidity, a wet heat insulator sharply increases thermal conductivity, and the insulation efficiency approaches zero. In addition, wet cotton wool takes a long time to dry, all this time wooden structures operated in very difficult conditions. As a result, the appearance of mold and rot, the need for extraordinary repairs not only of the flooring, but also of nearby wooden architectural elements.

Expanded polystyrene does not have the above disadvantages; it does not absorb moisture at all, even with direct, prolonged contact with water. The only problem with polystyrene foam is that the material is damaged by rodents, but to prevent damage there is a simple way - to cover the ventilation holes with metal grilles.

Step 1. Nail any pieces of boards, slats or OSB boards of appropriate sizes to the bottom plane of the log; the insulation will lie on them. The distance between the boards does not matter, the main thing is that the boards have a stop in at least four places.

Important. The thickness of the insulation layer should be at least ten centimeters; if it is less, the effect of insulation will be minimal. Professionals recommend laying two layers of slabs, each 5 cm thick. To minimize heat loss, joints should be placed in a checkerboard pattern.

With help polyurethane foam Seal all gaps between slabs and walls. After hardening, it must be carefully cut with a mounting knife.

Insulation is laid, joints are sealed with polyurethane foam

Step 2. After all layers of thermal insulation have been laid, you can continue laying the floor. You should start with one of the walls, fasten each board with self-tapping screws that remained after dismantling the old flooring. The thickness of the floorboards is approximately 20 mm, specific values ​​are selected taking into account the distance between the joists. The boards must be tongue-and-groove and as even as possible.

Step 3. Seal the gaps between the floor and wall trim around the perimeter of the bathhouse with foam. Once hardened, trim off excess.

Practical advice. If the walls in the bathhouse are covered with clapboard, then there is no need to remove foam from the profiled grooves. In any case, these cracks need to be sealed with silicone, and foam will significantly save the amount of silicone. The baseboard must be hermetically sealed not only to the floor, but also to the walls. Remember that water that gets into the gap will never dry out, and the lumber will inevitably begin to deteriorate prematurely.

Step 4. Sand the floor using an electric sander grinding machine. Be sure to connect it to a vacuum cleaner, this will reduce the amount of dust and make final cleaning of the bathhouse much easier. During sanding, make sure that sharp protrusions between adjacent boards are removed; as for the evenness of the surface, there are no strict requirements. If there is no special tool, then you can grind manual method, especially since the bathhouse floor area is small. Prepare the device, attach sanding paper number 25-N or more to a medium-sized smoother. By international classification The sandpaper must be class P60 or less.

Step 5. Clean the floor from dust, cover the surface with a durable acrylic varnish. Buy only high-quality material, varnish should not be afraid high humidity and release harmful chemicals into the air. You can cover the boards with an ordinary brush. The number of layers is at least three, each subsequent one is applied only after the previous one has completely dried.

Step 6. Along the perimeter of the bath, treat the cut foam with sealant, try to completely close all open pores. Give the sealant time to set.

Step 7 Install baseboards. They are fixed with self-tapping screws; first, the mounting bracket is attached plastic plate, and snaps to it decorative plinth. Carefully seal all gaps between the baseboard and wall trim with sealant. The sealant should be matched to the color of the boards.

At this point, the repair of the cold floor is completed, give the materials time to dry and you can use the bathhouse.

We looked at the most complex, expensive and time-consuming option for floor insulation, but there are also very simple, but no less effective, methods of dealing with a cold floor.

You may find recommendations to close the underground ventilation holes during cleaning. This method can be used to solve the problem, but do not forget to open the vents again immediately after washing. Lack of ventilation – the main problem bath flooring.

Another misconception. To improve the microclimate in the bathhouse, there are experts who recommend taking air into the stove firebox from the underground space. They are sure that this way improves movement warm air, it is pulled from the underground into the oven, and a warm one is lowered into its place. This is not true, there is no need to do such experiments. The fact is that new air in the underground will not come from the room, but from the vents in the foundation, that is, from the street. As a result, the floor will not warm up, but will cool down even more.

Real insulation due to the blower can be done only when the stove is located directly in the bathhouse. Place it in such a way that the air vent is as close to the floor as possible. In this case, the effect will be that instead of the used cold air, warm air will fall and warm the floor. But moving the stove just for this effect is not economically feasible. And the increase in floor temperature is not so significant as to break the stove for the sake of it. Above we have given examples of more effective and less expensive methods.

Prices for the Ballu BKX-3 heat gun range

heat gun ballu bkx-3

Conclusion

A cold floor in a bathhouse can only exist if it was built by illiterate and irresponsible builders. It is much easier, cheaper and smarter to prevent problems from occurring than to correct them later with heroic efforts. This rule, by the way, applies not only to floors, but also to all elements of a bathhouse or any structure or building.

Even in the steam room, where fragrant tree is an indispensable attribute, tiles can be found in the design of the floor and plinth under wooden through flooring. This material is not afraid of temperature changes and high humidity, it is easy to care for and is highly decorative. We'll tell you how to make a floor in a bathhouse from tiles.

Video - Cold underground in the bathhouse

Video - Cold floor repair

Many bathhouse lovers have noticed that the floor in the steam room, especially in winter, is very cold. Each owner solves this problem in his own way: some wear slippers, others lay walkways. If the floor is ceramic, then you have to put up with uncomfortable movement in the steam room and other rooms of the bathhouse.

But, if you provide proper insulation of the premises at the construction stage, these problems can be avoided, at least you can forget about the cold floor in the bathhouse.

In the photo - there should always be a drain in the steam room, but often the floor is so cold that it is necessary to lay wooden walkways

Insulation of the floor in the steam room

No one will argue that, and it is by this that the quality of bath procedures is judged. At the same time, the decoration of this room has a number of specific features due to extreme conditions use – temperature changes and high humidity.

The cold floor in the baths is especially noticeable in the steam rooms, hot air and an icy surface flooring- such a ratio can even lead to heat shock, so you should not skimp on insulation operations, which can be done in several ways.

Insulation of concrete floor

Concrete flooring is quite simple to make; you can make it yourself with minimal costs time and money, these are the factors that determined its high popularity among developers. However, it is precisely because of this that cold baths are obtained, because the thermal insulation characteristics of concrete are very, very low.

The most in a simple way will be poured in two layers with a heat-insulating layer between them.

Very often perlite is used for this; the procedure for working with this material is as follows:

• Before starting work, it is necessary to close all windows and doors in the room, after which two buckets of granulate must be poured into a prepared container with 10 liters of water.
• Next, a little cement is added and the mixture is mixed very thoroughly until a homogeneous mass is obtained.
• Then another bucket of perlite is poured in and water is added, after which the composition should be mixed until the release of water stops.
• The mixture is laid out on a clean, dry base in an even layer. The final filling of the floor can be done 7 days after laying the perlite.

Expanded clay pillow

A popular method of insulation is the installation of an expanded clay pillow. The material is very light and inexpensive, making it very popular in the construction process. You can fill it as a layer between two layers of concrete, or you can simply make a base of expanded clay.

If you pour expanded clay directly onto the ground, the base should be waterproofed using black film, since the material strongly absorbs moisture, which impairs its thermal insulation properties.

Advice: if you insulate the floor with expanded clay, to ensure high heat retention, the layer must be at least 25 cm, remember this when preparing the room.

Insulation with polystyrene foam

It is also possible to insulate using sheets of expanded polystyrene or high-density mineral wool.

The technology here has its differences:

• The base must be dry and level; if necessary, it must be additionally waterproofed.
• After laying the surface, it is necessary to lay a reinforcing mesh, which will give the final surface the necessary strength.
• After pouring the concrete floor, before laying ceramic tiles or other covering, the floor must stand for 4 weeks.

If the floor is wooden, it can also be insulated with expanded clay, expanded polystyrene or mineral wool. Very often a removable system is used, in which the boards are not nailed. In this case, they can be removed and dried, and if you prepare two sets of floorboards, your floor will always be dry and warm.

Insulation of the floor in other rooms of the bath

Cold bath - no The best way relaxation, therefore, in addition to insulating the floor in the steam room, you should take care of other rooms. , the relaxation room and shower deserve no less attention.

If you are making a bathhouse with your own hands, you should consider the features of its design, so the floor in the premises can be of two types:

• Wooden, this option is quite good for a rest room, but is not very suitable for showers due to the tendency of wood to fungus. There are also durable types, but the price for them is quite high, in addition, such wood is quite hard, which causes difficulties if you lay the floor with your own hands.
• Ceramic flooring is much preferable, as it is resistant to dampness, high temperatures and other adverse influences. In addition, it is very convenient to install heated floor systems under the tiles; in this case, you don’t even need heating - the floor will heat small rooms Moreover, this solution will make the floor warm and comfortable for movement even barefoot.

The installation of a heated floor in a bathhouse is no different from similar systems in other rooms. It can be electric or water - it all depends on your capabilities and preferences.

Conclusion

The easiest way to heat a bath is with heated floor systems; they solve two problems at once: heating the room and the comfort of moving barefoot. At the same time, remember that underfloor heating systems are not installed in the steam room - good insulation should be carried out there.

To thoroughly understand all the information, watch the video in this article.

I built a bathhouse, put oak posts on the screed in the washing room, and 40 floor boards on top of them. In the steam room I only put a couple of ladders, so the floor level in it turned out to be a little lower than in the washing room, and the height of the threshold was about 20 cm. However, , when you enter the steam room, you feel cold in your legs, not that strong, but it still exists. I’m thinking of improving the situation by using a hood and raising the floor level in the steam room, but first I wanted to ask - is it worth it, I don’t really want to sacrifice the height of the steam room?Installing a floor in a steam room is a very important process. If everything is done correctly, then both washing and relaxing in the bathhouse will be a pleasure. But if you do anything wrong, the consequences will be the most unpredictable. As it happened in your case - low level floor, thin screed, all this entails cooling the room. It is possible to correct the situation. Better level raise the floor in the steam room, because the lower it is, the colder it is. It’s not surprising that there’s a draft moving across the floor. To eliminate this drawback, you can use a layer of insulation, and make a ladder on top, which will need to be lifted and dried periodically. However this method very inconvenient. It is more expensive, but much more rational, to lay the floor again. That is, the existing boards should be removed. In this case, it will be possible to lay an additional layer of insulation, which will definitely not be superfluous. After the insulation layer, waterproofing is laid. Typically, polyethylene is used for the floor in a bathhouse. waterproofing material. The edges of the film should be left slightly longer and wrapped under the insulation. Next, the slats are filled, and then the floor boards. It makes no sense to install a heated floor in the steam room, but it can be installed in the dressing room and rest room. Or in these rooms you can lay a layer of insulation under the ladder. It is for these premises that this method is rational. But when laying ladders, one should not forget that the insulation remains poorly protected from fire. Accordingly, you should remember the technique fire safety.

There is also the option of installing a heated floor, since the steam room should be warm, not cool. If the stove does not heat, then you will have to warm up the room using additional “devices”. But if you increase convection, then while the floor warms up, the walls may “melt”, and no one has yet canceled fire safety rules.

Video: Forced air convection in a bathhouse

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