Block house is a popular finishing material that is used to decorate the walls and facades of various buildings. It features attractive appearance and easy installation. This finish can be used for both exterior and interior decoration. Today we will take a closer look at the intricacies of installing such a cladding.

Peculiarities

Block house is rightfully recognized as one of the most common and sought-after finishing materials. Ceilings sheathed with such coatings look like they are built from natural wood.

The block house is made of wood and galvanized steel. The last material is additionally covered with a film on polymer base. Such finishing coatings are double and single.

In the production of these materials, both deciduous and coniferous trees are used. The most durable and durable coatings are made of softwood because they contain natural resins. Such components provide natural waterproofing of the finishing material.

In addition to wooden, produced and metal options such a finish is metal siding. Such coatings are made of galvanized steel, not subject to corrosion. These materials often mimic natural wood and look natural.

A high-quality block house is produced on machines with special cutters. Wood processing has a direct impact on the quality of the finished product.

The block house is distinguished by its shape. It has a rounded front and a flat rear wall. On the edges of these materials there are spikes and grooves that are necessary for joining the lamellas on the base.

The ventilated facade, decorated with this finishing material, consists of several important components.

• In such structures, high-quality vapor barrier must be present. This component protects the block house from steam and high humidity. The vapor barrier layer passes vapors through itself in the direction of the ceilings, preventing them from reaching the insulation sheet.
• Also similar systems facades have a crate (framework). It forms the space between the wall of the house and the block house itself. This component acts as the basis for fixing the rails. As a rule, the crate is made of a wooden bar with a section of 100x40 mm or 50x40 mm - this parameter depends on the material that makes up the heat-insulating layer.

• A heat-insulating layer is also required in this design. For this, inexpensive foam or mineral wool is most often used. The insulation must be at least 10 cm thick.
• Such facade systems must be equipped with a wind barrier. It is installed on the frame beam and protects the insulation layer from the humidity that is present in the surrounding air.
• In the gap between the block house and the windproof film, as a rule, there is a counter-lattice. It consists of bars of a small section - 20x40 cm. If this element is not used when arranging the facade, then the panels of the block house made of wood can rot quite quickly.
• The final is the facing layer of the block house.

All of the above components must be present in facade structure. Otherwise, the block house will not last long and will rot.

Varieties

Block house is made of metal and wood. Let us analyze in more detail what characteristics these types of finishing material possess.

Wooden

To begin with, it is worth considering how good the cladding of the house with wooden coatings is:

• Such materials have a natural and expensive design. Buildings decorated in this way look cozy and hospitable.
• Wooden block house is environmentally friendly pure material. It contains no hazardous chemicals. Even at high temperatures, such a lining will not emit harmful substances.
• Block house made of wood is a wear-resistant material. It is not easy to damage or break. He is not afraid of shock and mechanical damage.
• High-quality panels are not subject to the formation of mold and fungus.

In addition, many consumers attribute a high cost to a number of disadvantages of a wooden block house.

For external cladding, material with a thickness of 40-45 mm is used. Such coatings are distinguished by increased heat and sound insulation characteristics. They are able to withstand adverse external factors due to its thickness.

For interior decoration, thinner lamellas with a thickness of 20-24 mm are used. Such coatings can only be used as decorative design elements. They are great for decorating the interior, because they have a small thickness and do not take up extra free space.

The block house is made of various types of wood and is divided into several classes.

• "Extra". Such Decoration Materials are of the highest quality. They have a pleasant smooth surface, on which there are not the slightest defects. Such a block house is expensive because it undergoes complex processing.
• "BUT". Materials of this class may have small knots on their surface, minor mechanical damage, as well as darkened areas. In some places, such a board may be uneven.

• "AT". Class block house may have cracks, knots and other noticeable defects.
• "WITH". Products of this class often have serious damage, noticeable cracks and knots.

Metal

• its installation is also considered quite simple;
• such finishing material does not need to be regularly looked after using expensive means;
• a metal block house can be laid out on bases consisting of any materials, but most often such material is sheathed with house floors or a pediment;
• such panels are inexpensive, especially when compared with natural wood coatings.

The only and main drawback of the metal block house is its impressive weight. That is why it is possible to purchase such material only if the walls of the house are strong enough and reliable. There is a lightweight alternative to such a material - an aluminum block house. However, it is less durable. It can be easily bent and damaged.

Such finishing materials are more often used for exterior finish. They look beautiful and natural. At first glance, it can be very difficult to distinguish them from natural wood.

How to choose?

Choosing a block house is not an easy task. Facing boards differ from each other not only in the materials from which they are made, but also in other characteristics.

When choosing such finishing materials, it is worth relying on the recommendations of specialists.

• For facade cladding, it is worth choosing not only thicker, but also wide panels. This parameter should be at least 15 cm. Choose coatings so that they have the same dimensions.
• It is recommended to buy longer slats. Using such materials, you can sheathe the house with a minimum number of joints. Standard length block house is 6 m.

• More dense and reliable are boards from the northern regions. These features have a positive effect on other qualities of similar materials. It is possible to find out the degree of density of a tree using the location of the annual rings. The closer they are to each other, the more dense the raw material is.
• Do not buy a block house that has various defects and damage, such as rotten knots, cracks, dark spots or moldy deposits.
• Pay attention to pitching - it should not have big sizes. The width of such elements should not exceed 8 mm, and the depth - 3 mm.
• The permitted wood moisture content is 20%. This indicator must be present in the quality certificate.
• The packaging of the block house must not be damaged. If any are present, then it is better to refuse to purchase the material, since it may be damaged or prone to decay.

The subtleties of fastening

The block house is mounted on a frame made of wood or metal profile. With this method of installation, constant ventilation occurs from the inside, which avoids the penetration of moisture into the material and insulation. facade walls are constructed in two layers so that insulation can be installed between them.

The block house must be attached horizontally to the bases. In this case, the spike should be directed upwards, and the groove - downwards.

The thorn-groove locking system is optimal for such finishes. However, besides this, self-tapping screws are used to fasten each bar from the outside. They are installed closer to the side of the panel.

In addition to self-tapping screws, other elements are used to fasten the material:

• nails;
• kleimer;
• galvanized staples.

Material blanks for external finishing are laid out horizontally. However, inside the building they can also have a vertical arrangement.

• first you need to fix the bar in a vertical position;
• then workpieces should be attached to it.

Using this method of fastening, you will eliminate the appearance of noticeable gaps.

At the joints, additional cuts must be made at an angle of 45 degrees. They are necessary to protect the finishing materials from deformation. This technique can be applied to both external and internal cladding of the house.

Calculation of the amount of lumber

Before proceeding with the arrangement of the facade of the house, it is necessary to calculate how much block house you will need.

Currently, such materials are produced with various dimensional parameters:

• the width of the lamellas for interior decoration is 96 mm, length - 2-6 m, thickness - from 20 mm;
• for outdoor decoration, a board with a width of 100 to 200 mm, a length of 4-6 m and a thickness of up to 45 cm is used.

To find out how much block house you need to buy to decorate your house, you should find out how much square meters in the ceilings. To do this, multiply the width by the height. From the resulting value, subtract the area of ​​\u200b\u200bwindows and doors. Now you can calculate the area of ​​​​one panel and divide the total number by the resulting value. Do not forget that in these calculations you need to take into account only the working width of the material (without locking elements).

For example:

• the panel is 5 m long and 0.1 m wide;
• we multiply these values ​​​​and as a result we get the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone panel - 0.5 sq m;
• if the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe wall is 10 square meters, then only 20 lamellas will be needed to finish it;
• if there are doors and window openings on the floor, then it is worth buying a block house with a small margin.

Step by step installation instructions

You can decorate the floors with a block house with your own hands. Let us consider in more detail the step-by-step instructions for laying such a facing material.

You will need the following materials:

• special membrane for wind protection;
• roll insulation;
• vapor barrier film;
• primer;
• antiseptic composition;
• bars for the frame;
• clamps and self-tapping screws for fasteners.

You also need to stock up on such tools:

• level;
• brush;
• the hammer;
• Sander;
• saw;
• electric drill;
• screwdriver

First you need to prepare the grounds:

• All wooden details should be treated with antiseptics. It is desirable to cover the boards with flame retardant - it will protect them from fire and mold.
• A vapor barrier layer must be nailed to the walls of the house. The film should be fixed with an overlap of 10-15 cm. It is more convenient to do this work using construction stapler.
• Next, you need to install the crate. It must be horizontal. Beams should be mounted with nails or self-tapping screws. If we sheathe brick or panel walls, then it is better to use frame dowels.
• in open cells frame structure heater should be installed.
• Attach another layer of crate to the main frame - vertical. To do this, the bars should be fixed with a level. It is on this basis that we will lay the block house.

Modern building technology moving forward with great speed. Special methods processing, an ordinary board is turned into a modern block house, how to fix it correctly, which we will analyze in this article.

What is a block house - material characteristics

What kind of new "beast" has appeared on the construction market? This is a material that is made of wood, outwardly very similar to a log, cut in half in length and carefully cleaned. This product has a semicircular shape on the front side, and is equipped with spike grooves on the sides, which facilitates the connection process. In the manufacture of a block house, various types of trees are used, and high-quality processing increases durability and prevents drying out, which makes it possible to maintain an excellent appearance for a long time.

Most often used in production, of course, coniferous forest, but often for interior cladding premises you can find a block house and from larch.

This type of finish looks like a lining with a convex outer side, which, when facing, creates an imitation log cabin. Sheathing them even from the most seedy house will make a fabulous wooden hut. Block house, in addition to aesthetic appeal, has a large number of other advantages. Given that the panels are made of wood the best varieties, you can be sure of the high environmental friendliness of the material. To this should be added the excellent microclimate created in the house, which was decorated with these products. The material has thermal insulation properties, and also you can easily replace the damaged place if necessary.

The disadvantages include the fact that during the heating of a cooled room, moisture may appear on the inside of the skin. This can be avoided by covering the wall with some kind of vapor barrier during installation. This will already make the sheathing process not as simple as we would like, but it will eliminate most of the problems, from dampness to fungi. It can also be noted that unvarnished material can be easily scratched or stained. To reduce soiling, it is important to renew the coating every year.

Types of block house - choose the option according to your pocket

Given the materials for manufacturing and the type of processing, it can be divided into certain classes.

• Class "E" or "Extra". The product has a perfect outer surface, in which the presence of knots or mechanical damage is unacceptable. The selection of wood and its sorting for the manufacture of panels of this class is carried out manually.
• Class "A". The panel has an excellent outer surface, but knots are acceptable in this case. various colors and any damage of any kind is categorically unacceptable.
• Class "B" represents products with a normally planed front side, they may well have minor damage and loose knots.
• Class "C" is determined by a tolerably planed surface, knots of various colors and holes are often found here. In such batches, small mechanical damage and cracks in the planks are quite acceptable, bark residues and dark spots on the wood may be present.

Naturally, the price of the material depends on its class. Elite panels are used when facing the corresponding houses. Such mansions are hardly affordable for the average resident, in fact, it makes no sense to spend money on a block house of category “E”. Class "A" is most often used for interior decoration summer houses, gazebos and verandas. Its cost is much lower than that of the elite. But the block house, belonging to an even lower category, does not have such an attractive appearance, but its price is quite acceptable, and the house lined with it from the outside still has a rather spectacular look.

How to fix a block house - step by step without help

Installation work on paneling is not difficult. Fastening the block house to the wall does not require any professional knowledge and skills. Performing all the steps correctly, you can quickly change the look of the house from the outside and, accordingly, inside. And since the material does not imply specific styles, fasten it, following your own imagination.

How to fix a block house - step by step diagram

Step 1: Selecting a block house

First of all, you need to decide what kind of panels you need. For facing the house outside, you need to choose a material that has a large width. If you decide to sheathe the walls inside with a block house, this is more suitable narrow version. Before starting work on facing such a clapboard, it is necessary to withstand it for some time in the room in which it will be installed..

Step 2: Surface preparation

To prevent the accumulation of moisture, as we noted above, waterproofing must be carried out before installing the panels. For this work, you can use any of the available materials, for example, penetrating mixtures or a special roll film. Without this block house even best class may not withstand high moisture accumulation, and after a while you will notice that the work done has gone down the drain, everything will have to be redone.

Step 5: Mounting the block house

Given that the panels are made of natural wood, they retain all the qualities inherent in it. Thanks to the humidity control they create, the internal climate of the room is regulated and the building "breathes". This effect is partially reduced, of course, by waterproofing, but your right to refuse it. Before proceeding to the installation, you need to figure out how to fix the block house on the crate. To fix the panels, you can use ordinary screws, for which holes are drilled with a drill to facilitate the fastening procedure. Also, for fastening the block house, you can completely use clamps or ordinary nails, which, for sure, are available in the home workshop.

Step 6: Painting

Despite the fact that such a finish does not need any additional processing, to create more uniqueness and effect, you can cover the block house with a transparent varnish. This will help emphasize the beauty of the material and extend the life of the product. To give more originality to the building, you can paint over the panels, even creating a specific pattern. By by and large, this is not mandatory, a house sheathed with such panels is already unique in itself. If you are used to doing repairs yourself, you can carry out wall cladding with a block house without much difficulty.

The construction industry will always be one of the most relevant, so new technologies are constantly being developed to quickly and efficiently achieve the goals. Modern equipment has multifaceted functionality, and the materials have features that allow them to be used in difficult physical and weather conditions. Real professionals in this kind of activity try to keep up with the times and constantly follow the latest developments in the world market.

Advantages of a block house with a video example of building material installation

It is possible to build Vacation home from a specialized bar, but this will require a lot of financial resources and physical effort. An excellent alternative for implementing such an idea is, which is quite simple to mount, and visual appearance meets the desired requirements. This is a modern type of lining, which has a number of undeniable positive qualities. On the provided video of the block house editing, you can pay attention to its Main advantages:

• Produced from natural breeds.
• With its use it is possible self control building humidity level.
• Economical cost compared to alternative materials for exterior decoration.
• Ease of installation, performed in the shortest possible time.
• Durability.
• Mobility, allows at any time to replace parts of the overall structure damaged by mechanical impact.

A professional approach to the installation of a block house, as in the video posted on the page, will be the key to the successful completion of the task. Let's comment on the video of editing the block house to the article. This is a kind of material that can be used as an exterior and interior decoration, but surprisingly, the installation technology does not have significant differences.

Wooden crate metal crate ways of fixing the block house

What to look for when choosing a material

At the first stage, you should pay attention to the quality of the material. It is worth imagining its labeling and distinctive features. As we mentioned in previous articles, manufacturers supply the market with a block house with 3 quality standards: A, B and C. They differ in the presence of knots, chips, cracks, wormholes, discoloration, bark residues and processing defects. The material with the least number of defects is marked with the Latin letter A. Two letters, for example, AB, mean the material of standard A contains 50% of the defects from standard B. Block houses of the listed varieties also differ in price. The lining of the best quality will have the highest cost.

As you can see in the installation video of the block house, in order to avoid future accumulation of moisture, it is necessary to waterproof the surface. This is a mandatory moment to eliminate possible troubles: violations of the fastening of the crate, changes in the properties of the wall material, etc.

Next, install the crate, which will help to achieve a smooth and neat finish. Often this is used wooden slats(bars) in increments of 30 to 60 centimeters.
The crate can also be made of a galvanized profile, although it will be more expensive and more difficult to adjust. Before installing the crate, it is recommended to mark the wall of the house using a plumb line, level and twine (you can use a fishing line). Fasten the initial bar along the stretched twine, and align all subsequent ones both vertically and horizontally, using all the same materials.

finishing material block house
block house mounting methods

A few words about insulation

If you plan to pre-insulate the building, then pay attention to the following points:

• For wooden house it is quite possible to limit yourself to sealing: seal the crowns, caulk, use wood sealant.
• The crate is installed on top of the vapor barrier.
• Insulation (ecowool, polystyrene, glass wool, basalt fiber, etc.) is placed between the battens, so the thickness of the battens depends on the thickness of the insulation layer (calculated based on the heat loss of the building).
• A wind and moisture protection is attached to the insulation layer with a stapler.

How to fix the block house

There are several ways to fix a block house:

1. Using screws (self-tapping screws), the base material is attached to the crate. There may be several options: drown the head of the self-tapping screw into the groove of the block house, tighten the screw at an angle of 45 degrees, pre-drill a hole for the self-tapping screw with a drill and screw it all the way, and then close the resulting recess wooden stoppers on glue.

2. Clamps can be used as alternative fasteners. They are inserted into the grooves of the lining and then fixed with self-tapping screws.

3. You can also use nails.

The mounting scheme is presented in the figures to the article. Fasteners must be made of galvanized material to prevent corrosion and wood decay. The horizontal block house is mounted from the bottom up. In this case, it is necessary to provide a gap from the ground to the first bar of a few centimeters for possible shrinkage. Each plank is driven into the groove with a tenon and then lightly tapped for a tight fit. Next, the top board is attached to the crate and the actions start over. Joints along the length are closed with appropriate wooden planks. Corners are decorated with special corners.

To emphasize the color, it is possible at the final stage to color the material with varnish, which will give visual effect using natural wood.

On the block house editing video posted in the article, you can see the entire workflow live, which will make it possible to complete this task. on their own. But it is better, of course, to entrust this matter to an understanding professional who is not the first to encounter this kind of finish. country house. If you are confident in your abilities, then additional knowledge in this area will never be superfluous, but on the contrary will help you realize your plans with maximum speed and economy.

In our article, we examined in detail the differences in block house varieties and learned how to choose quality material. Let us dwell in more detail on the intricacies of installation: the arrangement of the crate, the choice of insulation and antiseptic impregnations.

Block house cladding is a reliable and environmentally friendly way to finish new and repair old facades. However, do not forget that wood is a rather capricious material that requires a special approach. Therefore, even before the installation of the block house, several points should be taken into account:

1. The smaller the closed area, the smaller the diameter of the selected block house should be. Wide boards visually reduce space, especially indoors.
2. To achieve a high-quality result when sheathing a new wooden building, you should wait until the house stands and shrinks. It usually takes about six months from the moment of assembly and installation of the log house - otherwise, during the drying process, the block house may come apart at the seams and it will be necessary to completely redo all the work.
3. The purchased material should be kept for several days in the room where the work will be carried out (if it is planned to cover the facade, then under a canopy). The block house must acclimatize - gain humidity and ambient temperature - only in this case there will be no problems during subsequent installation and operation.

Stage 1 - preparation for installation

Before starting the installation of the block house, you need to carry out a number of preparatory work:

1. Prepare the base - process the walls antiseptic impregnations (wooden house) or by washing off efflorescence and impregnation on stone (brick or block house), putty chips, potholes and crevices.
2. Seal the crowns of the log house (in log house) - caulk them with tow, jute or linen fiber. To seal the seams, you can use special sealants for wood. But this method is less reliable and durable - the putty composition sooner or later collapses and loses its properties, unlike jute sealants, the fibers of which practically grow together with the tree.
3. Process the block house intended for installation - the surface of the tree is impregnated on all sides with compositions with fire and biological protection, if necessary - tinted with stains or colored wood impregnations. It is extremely important to apply the first coat before installation on the walls - this way you can process everything hard-to-reach places(thorns and grooves) and avoid drips and streaks.

Stage 2 - installation of the crate

The main purpose of the crate is to level the wall and create additional space for laying insulation (if provided). For the installation of a block house, a vertical crate is most often used - the boards fixed on it imitate the surface of a rounded log. Occasionally when interior decoration baths and saunas use a non-standard horizontal crate, sewing a narrow block house on it like a lining.

To obtain an even base for a block house, you must first mark the walls using a level and a plumb line:

1. According to the level, pull a horizontal fishing line along the longest wall - first along the top, then along the bottom.
2. In the corners, using a plumb line, pull and align the vertical fishing line (so that the wall is not littered).
3. Repeat the procedure around the entire perimeter of the building.

The first plank of the crate is attached along a vertically stretched fishing line, all subsequent ones are aligned horizontally and vertically. Rails are mounted on the entire surface of the wall, including the gaps between windows, door frames and cornices. The usual spacing for purlins is about 60 cm (in areas with strong winds- no more than 30 cm).

Most often, a dry bar or a galvanized metal profile is used for the crate for a block house:

	metal profile	wooden block
Dimensions	60x27 mm, 50x50 mm (with insulation)	20x50mm, 30x30mm, 50x50mm and others as per size
Fastening	With the help of additional fasteners - direct hangers - on self-tapping screws	Galvanized nails or screws
Lathing step	35-50 cm	30-60 cm
Possibility to adjust the size	Length only	Can be processed from any side
Load bearing capacity	Medium	high
Additional processing	Not required	Fire retardant wood impregnation
Geometry	No complaints	Depends on the method of production and drying, may have all the defects inherent in wood
combustibility	Incombustible	Highly flammable without impregnation
Strength and durability	high	Subject to decay and attack by wood bugs, can break in places where knots fall out
Reliability of fastening to the wall	Medium	High (for several turns of a self-tapping screw)

Despite some advantages of a galvanized metal profile, in arranging a crate for sheathing a block house, it is much more often used wooden block. Wooden material is cheaper by about 25-30%, and with proper processing virtually indistinguishable from metal. In addition, such a crate can be easily adjusted even in ready-made- the bars can always be trimmed a little or, on the contrary, built up with the help of thin dies.

Stage 3 - insulation and hydro-vapor barrier

Often, simultaneously with the installation of a block house, additional work for insulation of the facade of the house. Laying protective films and a layer of thermal insulation requires adjustments to the process of installing the crate:

1. A sheet or roll vapor barrier is attached to the facade. For example, you can use the protective film "Isobond B" - a two-layer material that prevents the accumulation of condensate and protects against fungus and corrosion. The insulating material is laid with an overlap of 100-150 mm, the joints are fixed with adhesive tape.
2. On top of the vapor barrier layer, a crate is sewn from a bar with a thickness equal to the thickness of the selected insulation. In this case, the step of the crate should be a couple of centimeters less than the width of the insulation - this will avoid unnecessary gaps.
3. Insulation is mounted in the crate, which is additionally attached to the wall with dowel-nails.
4. A layer of a wind and moisture protective membrane is attached over the insulation using a construction stapler - for example, Isobond B, which gives additional protection from precipitation.
5. For creating additional ventilation additional slats are built up on the main crate, to which the block house will be mounted.

Types of heaters are most suitable for sheathing a block house, Comparative characteristics which are presented in the table:

	Glass wool (mineral wool)	Basalt fiber	Styrofoam	Ecowool
Thermal conductivity, W/m⋅°С	0,044	0,039	0,037	0,037
Density, kg / m 3	9-13	35	25	35
Environmental friendliness	Contains phenolic resins	Contains phenolic resins	Polystyrene Granules	Wood fiber, natural materials
Biostability	Rodents won't start	Rodents won't start	Rodents start up	Rodents do not start, stops the growth of fungi that has already begun
fire safety		Non-flammable, but phenolic binder burns, releasing toxic combustion products	Flammable, when heated from +80 ° C, emits toxic smoke	Flammable, does not emit harmful substances when burning
Soundproofing	Low	Medium	Medium	high
Condensation		Formed, requires the use of additional vapor barrier	Formed, requires the use of additional vapor barrier	Not formed. natural humidity

Choosing a heater Special attention its density should be given - thermal insulation with a density below 30-35 after several years of operation practically sticks together, completely losing its protective properties.

Stage 4 - installation of the block house

On the this moment when installing a block house, several technologies are used that differ in the type of fasteners:

1. Kleimer - a special bar that is inserted into the groove of the board and with the help of a self-tapping screw fastens it to the crate.

1. Self-tapping screw or nail - can be fastened in two ways: either with the cap recessed into the groove of the block house, or at an angle of 45 degrees. Both options require a lot of experience and skill, as they are fraught with chips and cracks in the board.

1. Using a drill, mounting holes for self-tapping screws or nails are drilled. After fastening, the hats are sunk and closed with special wooden corks planted on glue. This is the most reliable and inconspicuous mounting option, but at the same time the most painstaking.

For the installation of a block house, it is best to use galvanized or anodized fasteners - this will help to avoid metal corrosion and wood decay in the future.

According to the rules, the installation of a block house starts from the bottom up, while the spike of the board should be on top - in order to avoid hitting excess moisture during operation. It is necessary to leave working gaps for shrinkage and ventilation - 5 cm along the upper and lower borders of the facade and a few millimeters between the panels.

During installation, the board is inserted into the groove with a spike and additionally tapped along the entire length for better connection. After docking, the top panel is attached to the wall.

To build up the block house along the length, special layouts can be used - thin wooden planks covering the joints. At the corners, the panels are joined either using a 45-degree cut, or using decorative external and internal corners.

Stage 5 - processing and protection

After the initial treatment with impregnations and installation of a block house, like any other wooden material, needs constant protection from the influence of many factors: rotting, woodworms, precipitation and ultraviolet radiation. The choice of means and the frequency of processing the finished wooden facade determined climate zone. AT middle lane It is enough for Russia to update the tree protection at intervals of 3-4 years.

Now on the market building materials universal antiseptics are widely represented - protecting and at the same time tinting the tree. They are produced on water acrylic base. Besides, protective compounds they can preserve and emphasize the texture of wood (azure) or completely paint over it (paints).

For optimal protection for a facade sheathed with a block house, it is best to use tinting protective compounds with the addition of acrylic lacquer. Such impregnations are widely represented by trusted manufacturers, such as Tikkurila, Neomid, Texturol. Buy cheaper funds water based- it's like throwing money away: their protective properties "disappear" in just a year.

Related videos

Metal siding imitating outer surface log house, used for finishing buildings for various purposes, including private houses. Advantage metal panels under a log in the ability to quickly, easily and not expensively give an attractive appearance to the facade of the building. Installation of metal siding block house usually happens final stage in a set of measures to create a ventilated facade system, which includes preset mounting lathing and wall insulation from the outside.

Metal siding blockhouse as a facing material

Initially, a block house, that is, a house cladding that imitates the shape and texture of a building log, was made from solid wood. Do wooden block house and now. However, this material has two drawbacks. Firstly, it is not without all the disadvantages that are typical for wood products, and secondly, it is expensive, so not everyone can afford to use it to restore the facade of a dilapidated house.

The next material that repeats the shape of a log, which manufacturers have mastered, is a plastic (vinyl) block house. Without mentioning the less significant, it is worth mentioning the main drawback vinyl panels to raise questions about the appropriateness of its use for finishing residential buildings - plastic siding combustible, while the products of combustion are extremely toxic.

The producers' last word is metal siding under a log, which is based on galvanized steel steel sheet about 0.5 mm thick. The steel is coated on both sides with several layers of protection that protects it from oxidation and exposure to aggressive chemicals. On the front side, on top of the sprayed protection, a decorative layer is applied that imitates the texture of the surface of a polished log. The pattern is also covered with a transparent laminating film that protects not only from mechanical damage, but also from UV rays that cause color fading. As a result, manufacturers endowed metal siding under a log with the following characteristics:

• does not burn;
• does not deform at temperatures + 70- - 50;
• pattern and color do not change over time;
• durability exceeds 50 years;
• easy to install with your own hands;
• ideal for ventilated façade systems.

The metal block house authentically imitates the texture of a natural log; you can see its non-wooden nature only up close. Thanks to the listed advantages, log-like metal siding is increasingly becoming the material of choice when it comes to cladding buildings for various purposes.

After making sure that you have chosen the right cladding for your home, it's time to start preparatory activities.

Preparing to install metal siding

To get started installation work and successfully conduct them, you need to pay due attention to preparation. First of all, stock up necessary material. Prepare necessary tools and devices, taking into account the fact that you have to work at a small, but height. If it is supposed full complex measures included in the creation of a ventilated facade, the purchase of insulation and protective films for thermal insulation should be taken into account. Now more about these issues.

Calculation and selection of material

Let's start with the crate. As guides can be used galvanized metal profiles or wooden bars. The profile (drywall CD 27x54 is used) is considered more durable, but it is a little more difficult to work with. When choosing metal guides, pay attention to the quality of galvanization (a high-quality coating should shine) and sufficient profile rigidity.

Wooden beams serve less, but the service life can be increased by treating the wood with priming and antiseptic impregnations. When choosing wooden guides (suitable section 50x50), make sure that the bars are dry, as even as possible, without large knots. The quality of the surface finish does not matter. The guides are calculated based on a step of 60 cm (the width of the basalt insulation) and their vertical location.

It is more convenient to attach racks to the wall with U-shaped hangers for the profile (also suitable for timber). You need to fix the brackets to the wall with dowels (brick, concrete) or wood screws (log, aerated concrete, clay). The number of fasteners is 3-4 for each rack.

On top of the profiles (beams), you will need to additionally sew slats up to 30 mm thick. They are needed to create air ventilation gap between lining and insulation. The number of rails corresponds to the useful total length of the guides.

The amount of insulation (mineral wool in mats) is equal to the area of ​​the walls minus the openings. The area of ​​wind protection and vapor barrier is also calculated plus 10% for overlapping canvases.

The metal block house is calculated according to the area of ​​the walls without windows and doors, but with a small margin of about 2-3 m2 for cutting it. Dobors (corners, connecting and starting strips, J-profiles that are attached near doors and slopes) are sold by linear meters, they are calculated, respectively, in them.

Important. When purchasing metal siding, pay attention to its quality and availability of a certificate. To play it safe, give preference to products of well-known manufacturers and do not buy too much cheap material semi-handicraft production.

Tool preparation

To perform a set of works from creating a crate to installing a metal block house siding, you will need the following tools and fixtures:

• water level or laser level, conventional bubble level, plumb;
• screwdriver;
• perforator (brick or concrete wall);
• Angle grinder (grinder) with a disk for metal and scissors for metal (to cut panels in various situations);
• yardstick;
• hacksaw or jigsaw;
• stepladder or other device from which you can work at a height of 3-4 meters.

Having prepared everything you need, you can proceed with the installation of the block house with your own hands, starting with the crate and insulation.

How to mount guides and thermal insulation, process description

1. First, the wall is covered with a vapor barrier sheet, after which the edge profiles are installed. To do this, first, brackets are mounted along the guide line with a step of about 80 cm. Racks must be vertical (checked by a plumb line) and spaced from the wall surface at a distance corresponding to the thickness of the basalt insulation. How to attach hangers to the profile? To do this, you need special small self-tapping screws with a drill at the end (among professionals, such screws are called “fleas”).
2. Threads are pulled between the extreme profiles (top, bottom) and the rest of the guides are set along them.

Important. When installing standard pitch racks, be sure to install rails around window and door openings.

1. Insulation mats are laid between the racks of the crate so that it remains minimum space(ideally, there was none at all), not filled with heat-insulating material.
2. A windproof film is installed over the racks and mineral wool. In this case, it is better to roll it horizontally and press it with slats, screwing them on top of the main guides. Neighboring canvases overlap by about 15 cm.

At this stage, the installation of the crate and wall insulation ends. You can move on to lining.

Installing metal siding block house

1. With the help of a water or laser level, a horizontal line is beaten off along the perimeter of the house at the level of the top of the basement. This will be the starting line that will correspond to the bottom of the first panel.
2. At the corners, at the places of the intended connections of the siding segments, the corresponding additional strips are installed. The starting bar is mounted from below along the marked horizontal line.
3. The edges of the first strip of siding are inserted on the sides into the grooves of the extensions, snapped into the bottom starting bar. To get the panel into the grooves of the additional elements, it can be bent slightly outwards.
4. Subsequent structural elements of the siding are connected to the previous ones. lock connections. To dock two adjacent panels, you need to press the top one until a characteristic click appears. It is not worth tightening the fixing screws tightly, as it is necessary to facing material could freely deform within the oval mounting hole when the temperature changes.
5. The top panel is closed with a finishing bar, which is similar to the starting one. So every wall is sheathed. Near window slopes and doors, to close the edges of the block house, J-profiles are installed.

As you can see, the installation of a ventilated facade with a metal block house cladding is not very difficult. If the instructions above seemed insufficient to fully understand the intricacies of the workflow, watching this video will help fill in the information gaps.