Why wood?

Wooden structures have several important advantages and in particular:

• cheapness- a do-it-yourself frame made of this material is cheaper than a ready-made version of a galvanized profile;
• durability- the structure serves for at least 5-7 years, and in regions with a temperate climate it is three times longer;
• environmental friendliness- wood has a beneficial effect on the microclimate inside the greenhouse and does not emit harmful substances into the atmosphere.

How to cover?

We have not mentioned such pluses of a wooden frame as reliability and stability, that is, the ability to withstand any coating, from light agrofilm to rather heavy glass.

There are many different options for covering timber framed greenhouses.

Each type of coverage has its own pros and cons, let's dwell on them in more detail.

Polyethylene film

Pros:

• availability - the product can be found in any market and in a building materials store;
• low cost.

Minuses:

• short term of use;
• insufficient permeability to sunlight;
• low strength (breaks quickly);
• poor performance of thermal insulation.

Glass

Pros:

• excellent light transmission;
• resistance to sudden temperature changes;
• good thermal insulation;
• resistance to aggressive environments;
• ease of care.

Minuses:

• a certain complexity of the glazing process;
• significant weight and, accordingly, increased requirements for the frame;
• fragility and defenselessness in front of strong wind, hail;
• insufficient protection against UF radiation.

Polycarbonate

Pros:

• ease;
• strength;
• the ability to transmit up to 80% of solar radiation;
• versatility (it can be bent and cover frames of any shape with it).

Minuses:

• rather complicated installation;
• in hot weather it gets very hot;
• low-quality polycarbonate after 1-1.5 years of operation becomes fragile like glass.

IMPORTANT! the choice of covering material depends on the region of residence, the types of vegetables grown, the preferences of the owner and his budget.

Choice of timber

In the nearest carpentry shop, you can buy wooden beams for the construction of the greenhouse frame.

Better if he will from industrial wood such as pine or larch.

Expensive types of wood (oak, beech) are difficult to work with, are expensive, and they do not serve much more than conifers.

Even cheap wood can be approximated to the ideal in terms of characteristics, if it is selected and prepared correctly.

Timber selection criteria:

• absence of cracks, chips, large knots, as well as signs of rot;
• humidity indicators not higher than 22%;
• ideal geometry (the timber must be flat and straight).

If these requirements are met, the greenhouse frame will turn out to be durable and resistant to temperature extremes. The base bar should measure 100 x 100 mm; for racks 50 x 50 mm.

IMPORTANT! all wooden elements of the greenhouse must be carefully cut, treated with an antiseptic composition in order to avoid rotting and the appearance of insects. Before assembling the frame, they can be impregnated with linseed oil to make them look beautiful. Ideally, it is desirable to paint the finished wooden structure.

Seat selection

One of the main questions that gardeners ask is - where exactly to locate the greenhouse... The best option is an unshaded place, which is located at a sufficient distance from summer cottages and large trees. In other words, it should not be allowed that the shadow falls on the structure even for one single hour a day, since this will negatively affect the yield of vegetables.

IMPORTANT! the door should be located on the leeward side (not from the north and not from where the wind most often blows).

Greenhouse dimensions

The time has come to decide what exactly we are going to build. So, it will be a stationary greenhouse with the following parameters:

• plan dimensions - 2 x 5.4 m; wall height - 1.5 m;
• rafter roof, 2-pitched;
• strip foundation, reinforced;
• film coating.

The design is calculated for use in the warm season... Sizes selected based on the width of the plastic film sleeve- 3m. When covering the finished frame, the film does not have to be cut and adjusted.

Foundation device

Question: how to build a greenhouse with your own hands from wood? not so simple. It is necessary to solve many intermediate problems - from the location of the greenhouse to the choice of covering material.

Which foundation to choose, concrete or brick, arranged in the manner of a columnar, everyone decides for himself.

In our case, this is a monolithic strip foundation.

A small trench 55-60 cm deep is dug under it, along the perimeter of the future structure, where concrete M 200 or 250 is poured.

With the help of formwork, it is necessary to raise the tape above ground level to a height of 25-30 cm.

Foundation can and should be reinforced to increase its strength characteristics and protect against subsidence. Also follows take care of waterproofing, so that in the future the structure can be used not only with a wooden frame and a film covering, but also, for example, with a metal frame and a polycarbonate covering.

DIY wooden greenhouse

Wood is a material traditional for Russia, and the ability to work with it in our men is in the blood. Therefore, problems in the manufacture of the frame should not arise. This is how it should look:

Frame diagram

Photos of the phased construction of a wooden greenhouse from a bar with your own hands are presented later in the article.

(Fig. 1 Scheme of the frame of a greenhouse made of wood)

The design has a trapezoidal shape ( the most common and easiest to implement version of the arched shape)... Please note: in the figure, the greenhouse has two ends, in one of which the entrance door will be installed in the future. For this purpose, the top board of the end wall will be cut. This is what the assembled frame looks like in a summer cottage:

Construction of a greenhouse on the site

(Fig.1a Construction of a greenhouse on the site)

Step 1: Attach the structural beam to the foundation
Before thick bars are attached to the foundation as a base for the frame, we recommend put a small-mesh netting under the future greenhouse to protect against moles and other rodents. A small mouse can make a big commotion and scare you with its sudden appearance. A few words about the supporting beam - it should be slightly wider than the one from which the frame itself will be made. It is also necessary pretreat with antiseptic compounds... Fastening it to the foundation is carried out using metal corners (they are installed at the stage of pouring), anchor bolts, reinforcement.

IMPORTANT! the base should be made up of a solid bar, and not from pieces connected to each other. The stability of the future structure depends on this.

Step 2: making the wall
After the wooden base is attached to the foundation, we proceed to the assembly of the frame and start it by drawing up the wall. This is a rather laborious process. especially for those who are doing this for the first time. Nevertheless, if the material is of high quality, and the measurements are made accurately, the installation is not difficult.

Assembled greenhouse wall

(Fig. 2 Assembled greenhouse wall)

In the picture in front of you is a diagram of an assembled inner wall (dimensions 5.4 x 1.5 m). As you can see, grooves have been chosen for ease of assembly. With them it is not only more convenient, but also safer, since they increase the resistance of the finished frame to wind loads. To fasten the walls to other elements of the frame (rafters, vents, ceiling lags), you will need self-tapping screws, a metal profile, a corner, and clamps. The number of walls with the above parameters is two.

Step 3: construction of the rafter system

When making the rafter system cannot do without grooves... Moreover, they will be needed more than for the walls. Nevertheless, you should try to complete them all so that the roof plane is flat and the wind load on the film coating is as low as possible.

Now let's decide on the length of the rafter leg. If the greenhouse will be used by people of average height, its length should be 1.27 m.If you are tall, increase the length of the rafter leg to 1.35 cm.

Such accurate numbers and strict restrictions may surprise... In fact, everything is simple: the width of the plastic film sleeve is 3 m, that is, in unfolded form 6 m.Consequently, the sum of the lengths of the two rafter legs and two racks should be about 5.8 m. This will allow you to get by with a 6 x 6 m covering film., no residue or waste.

On one side of each pair of rafters, a wooden corner (fastening part) and a crossbar are attached. The number of rafters corresponds to the number of racks. This is what a rafter pair looks like:

Rafters

(Fig. 3 Rafters)

Step 4: installing the ridge and wind boards
The rafter system is considered complete and acquires the specified strength only after the installation of the wind boards and the ridge of the roof. They are attached at the very end and by all means must be made of solid timber(as well as the base bars for the frame). In the diagram below, these three boards are highlighted in dark brown:

Fastening wind boards made of solid material

(Fig. 4 Fastening solid wind boards)

IMPORTANT! The ridge and wind boards must not only be correctly positioned, but also carefully processed (sharpened and sanded) so that the adjacent plastic film does not tear against an ill-prepared surface.

Step 5: device of the door and vents
Since our greenhouse is small, only 5.4 m in length, one entrance door (at the end) and one window (at the same or opposite end) are enough for it.

(Fig. 5 Door and window)

You can see a very detailed and thorough construction of a greenhouse from a wooden bar in this video:

It is impossible not to mention another advantage of a wooden frame with a roof truss system. The design allows you not to waste time and money on the manufacture of trellises, but to tie the plants directly to the rafters.

Without a greenhouse it is difficult to achieve a good harvest heat-loving vegetable crops. Despite the fact that today you can find a rich selection of ready-made sets of greenhouses and greenhouses on sale, interest in creating them with your own hands is growing from year to year.

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Nowadays, buying a ready-made greenhouse is not a problem. Manufacturers offer a choice of finished products of various shapes, sizes and materials.

But building a greenhouse with your own hands has always been interesting.

Firstly, you feel pride in your own creation, and secondly, the building will be of such configuration and dimensions as you wish. And what is important, the price of your greenhouse will always be much cheaper than the industrial version.

Advantages and disadvantages of a wooden greenhouse

Before you start building a greenhouse made of wood with your own hands, you should weigh well the pros and cons of the future design.

It is necessary to select materials for future construction.

What are the advantages of timber framed greenhouses:

1. Wooden beams are easy to purchase at any hardware store, in the market or at a sawmill. Problems with the acquisition of material never arise.
2. The timber is affordable, its cost is low.
3. You don't need a high quality product to build a greenhouse. It is enough that the wood is well dried and has no obvious defects.
4. The frame of the greenhouse made of wood is easy to assemble; special professional skills are not required for assembly.
5. Wood is an environmentally friendly material, there are no toxic substances in it.
6. A greenhouse with such a frame has a sufficient margin of safety, which will allow the building to stand for at least five years. The only advice is that it is advisable to process the beams, to protect them from premature decay.

Disadvantages of such greenhouses:

1. It is difficult to disassemble and reassemble a wooden building if it becomes necessary to move the greenhouse to another location,
2. Still, wood is not as strong as metal and is more quickly exposed to adverse environmental conditions,
3. Wooden structures are highly flammable, unlike products with a metal frame.

Choosing a location for a greenhouse

In addition to size, materials and shape, the location of the building is also important.

It depends on how the greenhouse is located, whether it will be convenient to use it, how quickly vegetables, fruits and other plantings will ripen.

Consider the factors to consider when choosing a location:

• sun illumination of a plot of land;
• surface relief;
• wind protection;
• distance to water sources if there is no centralized irrigation system;
• soil composition for the selected area.

One of the main conditions for the ripening of the crop is good sun illumination of the selected place.

The greenhouse should be located away from tall trees and buildings. It will be best if natural light hits the building from all directions throughout the day.

The place for the greenhouse must be chosen on a flat surface. It will be problematic to install a building on a hilly plot of land, and it will also be inconvenient to use it.

If the entire surface of the land is hilly on the site, you need to try to level the surface as much as possible.

It shouldn't be cold in the greenhouse. In order to prevent the heat from blowing out of it, you can build a low fence around the building or plant some low-growing shrub.

Heat loss is reduced by reinforcing the greenhouse cover... If the coating material is glass or film, another additional layer of material is installed.

It is not possible to install a greenhouse on any soil. Swampy terrain is generally not suitable for this; it is also not worthwhile to place a building in the lowlands - moisture will always accumulate there.

On sandy soil, you will need to strengthen the foundation. A flat elevation is very suitable for a greenhouse.

Sizes and shapes

Before building, you should decide on the shape and size of the future structure.

Dimensions - the main thing is not to overdo it

As a rule, the greenhouse is never large, the principle “the bigger the better” does not work here. First, different vegetables require different climatic conditions.

For example, tomatoes with cucumbers should not be in the same greenhouse - cucumbers need high humidity, tomatoes may not survive such humidity. Therefore, it is better to have two small greenhouses than one large, but useless.

Secondly, a large wooden structure will be rather unstable, and even with small gusts of wind, it can fall apart.

The most optimal size for a greenhouse is about three meters wide and six meters long. But such dimensions are assumed if the structure is rectangular.

For example, a geo dome has a different shape, its dimensions are determined by the diameter.

The height of the greenhouse should provide comfort when working inside it. The optimal height is considered to be two and a half meters. If the roof of the building is gable, then the height of the walls is usually within two meters.

Too high greenhouses are useless - they become unstable and less warm.

Also very popular and easy to manufacture. A step-by-step guide in our article.

A gazebo with barbecue is a necessary and useful building for every summer cottage. What you need to know about construction, nuances and with photos and videos.

Forms are limited only by fantasy

The shapes of greenhouses can be different, it all depends on the imagination of the builder. But still, there are typical forms that we can most often see on personal plots:

1. Semicircular or arched shape... This form is very practical, the greenhouse is less affected by winds, and in winter there is not much snow accumulation on the roof of the building. The design of this design is very nice. But it is not very easy to make the frame of such a greenhouse from wood, usually semicircular buildings are made on the basis of aluminum or plastic arcs.
2. House shape or pitched design... This design is convenient in that plants in the greenhouse can be grown in the immediate vicinity of the walls, the area inside the building is used to the maximum. Snow and water on the roof practically does not linger. "Houses" can be rectangular and multifaceted. By type of roof, they can be single-pitched and gable. Single-pitched greenhouses are used in cases where the building is adjacent to the wall of a residential building.
3. Flat roof shape... This is an unusual design for greenhouses. In the horizontal roof, a perforated film is attached, in which many holes have been made; in rainy weather, such a structure serves for watering plants.

In the photo, a pitched wooden greenhouse built by your own hands

Building a greenhouse - step by step instructions

Consider building several types of greenhouses.

Standard Gable Roof Greenhouse

First, we level the ground for the future greenhouse. We mark the base and lay the bricks in the corners and around the perimeter. If desired, the foundation can be made more durable (for example, pour concrete). Then we assemble a box from a bar and install it.

From the same timber we collect panels for the door, rear side, walls and roof. Putting the frame together.

We cover the greenhouse with material (foil, glass, polycarbonate).

If the frame is covered with a film, then the work should be done in calm weather. Before winter, it is better to remove the film so as not to buy new material next year. The frost film cracks, and under the load of snow the whole greenhouse can fall apart.

Arched greenhouse

For an arched greenhouse, it is better to make a solid foundation. If the building will stand all year round, then the base must be made of bricks, filling them with concrete.

We make elements for greenhouse arches from wood. The arches should be fresh wood because they need to be flexible.

We also erect a frame and install a covering.

The video describes in detail how to assemble an arched greenhouse made of wood and polycarbonate with your own hands.

In the gallery you can look at the approximate drawings that will help you build a greenhouse from wood with your own hands.

Planting vegetables in the greenhouse

Hobby gardeners generally do not have the ability to set up multiple greenhouses for different crops. Therefore, you need to somehow make friends with all thermophilic plants in one greenhouse.

The most basic greenhouse vegetables in central Russia are cucumbers and tomatoes. But the climate for both needs different.

Cucumbers require a lot of moisture and little sun, but tomatoes require a lot of sunlight and cannot stand it from a humid climate.

Gardeners find a way out. They divide the greenhouse in half: cucumbers are planted along the entire length on one bed, and tomatoes are planted on the other. Watering cucumbers does not affect the ripening of tomatoes, since moisture does not reach the tomato garden.

A bed of cucumbers is located on the shady side of the greenhouse, and moisture-loving vegetables can easily tolerate such conditions. In a long greenhouse, a partition is often made between crops in the middle of the greenhouse.

Making a greenhouse with your own hands is not only economically profitable, it also gives pleasure from the creation process. In addition, a hand-made thing is always done conscientiously, because it is done for oneself.

Making a greenhouse out of wood with your own hands is not at all difficult - you just need to have material, tools, hands and desire.

We continue our series of articles about greenhouses for growing plants. I think that every person with "straight" hands can independently make a greenhouse out of wood. After all, this material is easily processed, and any elements are simply attached to it. In addition, wooden structures can last for several decades.

Despite its low weight, this design is quite stable. If necessary, the greenhouse can be dismantled at any time. Wood is a material from which structures of any size and shape can be made.

To increase the service life of a wooden greenhouse, it is recommended to treat the tree with special means.

Step-by-step instructions for the construction of a wooden greenhouse (arched version)

The main difficulty in manufacturing an arched wooden structure is arcs, which must be strong enough. The length of the future greenhouse depends on their number. Most importantly, the arcs must withstand a heavy load when assembled.

For manufacturing you will need:

• A bar with dimensions 5X5 cm.
• Board 5 cm thick.
• Metal corners.
• Self-tapping screws.
• A necessary tool.
• Drawing.

First you need to make the main element. You will also need stiffening ribs from a bar 90-100 cm long.To make a key element, you need to prepare a piece, which is then put on the board, circle with a marker and cut out with a jigsaw. If necessary, you can use a plane to cut the edges.

The next step is to prepare the first layer. The number of elements depends on the size of the future greenhouse, consider an option with 17 elements.

To assemble the layer, you need to mark the contour on the surface and lay the prepared arch elements on it.

The height and width of the greenhouse can be adjusted by changing the configuration of the arc itself.

With the second layer, the folded elements are held together. To do this, lay the element on top, which should be located in the middle of the connection.

And the joints of the second layer should be located strictly in the middle of the elements that are connected in the first layer, as shown in the figure.

Self-tapping screws are used for fastening. As a result, the assembled arc is quite simple with the required dimensions.

When the required number of arcs is ready, then you should start fixing the first one. This can be done with bolts, metal corners, poured into the concrete of the foundation.

As a result, the frame will look like this.

At the next stage, stiffeners are installed. For this, a 90 cm long beam is cut off. They are fastened with metal corners and self-tapping screws.

The design is universal, but the ends are different. Thanks to the rectangular shape, the windows can be installed anywhere.

You can cover the structure with polycarbonate sheets or foil.

DIY greenhouse made of wood and polycarbonate (simple drawing)

Polycarbonate is a reliable and moisture resistant material that does not require special maintenance. To date, manufacturers offer various types, so it is recommended to carefully study the instructions before installation.

The choice of drawing depends on the variety of plants that will be grown in the greenhouse, as well as on the shape of the structure. Before installing the structure, it is recommended to think over the lighting and heating system.

The amount of material is calculated on the basis of the drawing, as well as the installation method: vertical or horizontal.

Polycarbonate is a rather flexible material, so it can be fixed not only on a flat surface, but also on a semicircular structure. In this case, you cannot do without an assistant, since you need to hold one side, and attach the other to the wooden frame.

In polycarbonate, there is no need to prepare holes in advance.

Before work, you need to purchase a sealant with which all sheet joints are processed. This is to prevent the ingress of moisture and cold air.

All materials for the self-production of a wooden structure with polycarbonate sheathing must be purchased taking into account the prepared drawing, but with a small margin.

Homemade greenhouse buried in the ground

The soil retains heat well, therefore, in some cases, it is advisable to make a recessed greenhouse with your own hands. The structure can go to a depth of 1.5 m, and the height above ground level is 1 m.

Before building a structure, you need to decide on a place, taking into account some points:

• Light. During the daytime, the greenhouse should be well lit.
• Direction of the wind. In some regions, winds prevail, in this case it is necessary to additionally protect the structure in order to save on heating. At the very least, you need to make a hedge.
• Availability. If it is assumed that the greenhouse will serve for a long time, then it is necessary to provide convenient access.

For example, consider the construction of a gable buried structure.

• After the place for the greenhouse has been chosen, you need to dig a pit of the required size and a strip foundation is poured to a depth of 80 cm.
• On the next tap, you need to build walls one brick thick.
• The windows are located at a height of 60 cm from the ground. To ensure good lighting, it is recommended to install windows 75 cm apart.
• After that, a gable roof is erected. To ensure water drainage, the angle of inclination should be 25 degrees.
• Fasten the beams with the rafters.
• Fix polycarbonate or glass on the roof.

The service life of such a greenhouse is about 15 years.

From all of the above, we can conclude that a wooden greenhouse is one of the most reliable structures, which can be assembled by almost anyone.

On the expediency of using wood for the construction of a greenhouse, skeptics express many counterarguments. They mainly concern such problems as the gradual destruction of the material (it has enough "enemies" - moisture, temperature changes, biological pests) and its regular deformation during its service life.

And, nevertheless, it is from wood that greenhouses are most often erected in the adjoining and garden plots. The main thing is to organize everything competently and adhere to the technology. What to consider when designing, how to correctly draw up a drawing and build such a specific object - the proposed article will tell you in detail about the nuances of designing and building a greenhouse.

The author will not tell the reader about all the advantages of wooden greenhouses. Once the choice has been made, it means that all the pros and cons have already been analyzed. But it is nevertheless necessary to note something.

First, there are no standard greenhouse drawings. It is designed based on the size of the plot allocated for construction, the type of crops that are planned to be grown, and the "volume of production". This is primarily taken into account when determining the optimal dimensions and internal structure, including the degree of automation.

There are typical greenhouse schemes that should be followed. A full-fledged drawing, indicating the exact linear dimensions, is drawn up individually in each specific case.

Secondly, the main elements of any greenhouse are its foundation and frame. Here you should strictly follow the recommendations of professionals. Various "innovative" ideas, not supported by knowledge and experience, are fraught with consequences. But in all other respects (sheathing with transparent materials, internal layout), some "amateur performance" is allowed, within reasonable limits.

It makes no sense to explain that not every breed is suitable for building a greenhouse. Even if the “experts” say that it doesn't matter, such advice should not be heeded. The best material, given the specifics of using the facility (primarily, high humidity inside), is larch. It differs from many other conifers by the content in the structure of a special kind of resin. It is its composition that gives the wood strength, moreover, when the material absorbs moisture. For a greenhouse, this is an invaluable property.

Perhaps, of the species growing in our country, only an oak can be compared with it. It is not for nothing that high-quality barrels are obtained from it, but experienced craftsmen always use larch to assemble the lower crown of a log house. The only drawback of these trees is the high cost of lumber. But if the price does not bother you - the best option for a greenhouse.

Of the cheaper products, only pine can be distinguished. It is she who in most cases is purchased for individual construction. Partially it will be possible to save money if you focus on the spruce. It is only necessary to take into account that the structure of this tree is less dense, and only small greenhouses can be erected from it. Although for an adjoining (garden) plot within 3.5 x 4.5 m, as a rule, it is enough.

Preparation of materials for construction

Basically, it all comes down to pre-processing the wood. What kind of wood to buy is up to the owner. But there are a number of points to consider.

• SNiP prohibit the use of material with moisture in the construction industry< 22%. Но такая древесина будет все равно давать усушку, поэтому лучше потратиться и купить более качественную, обработанную промышленным способом. Можно организовать снижение содержания влаги самостоятельно, но это процесс не одного дня, да и правильно выполнить все операции вряд ли получится.
• Since the concept with your own hands implies some savings, including on materials, it is advisable to use not purchased preparations for impregnating wood, but the processing of machine oil. In any car service, you can negotiate. Perhaps they will give it away anyway, especially since a lot will not be needed. The effect is the same, but much cheaper.
• The fact that each workpiece is processed (for example, with a plane) before use is not worth explaining. Residual dirt should be removed with an abrasive. It is better not to practice the "wash with water" method. Then you will have to dry it again, and it is not a fact that the finished part will not lead.

Someone will think that the author has “signed up” a little if he is distracted by such nuances. Is it all the same as long as the tree is free from defects? It should be clarified that the peculiarity of the greenhouse is the transparent sheathing. Whether it is a cheap film or more expensive polycarbonate, glass, even with a slight deformation of the frame, they will give cracks, tears, cracks.

Consequently, it is no longer necessary to talk about tightness. With such an attitude towards the greenhouse, you can do it easier - plant the seedlings in boxes, put them on the street and cover them with polyethylene film. That is why you need to pay attention to the moisture content of the tree.

Calculator for calculating materials for a rectangular greenhouse

Features of the construction of a greenhouse

For individual plots, the optimal dimensions are 6 x 4 or 4.5 x 3.5. But as already pointed out, there is no standard.

Foundation

The choice is large, but if you focus on an already equipped and planted area, then there are not so many options. The author considers a support from a bar to be optimal. Such a foundation does not imply large-scale construction, which gives a great advantage to this solution.

What to do:

• Dig a moat around the perimeter of the greenhouse. The depth is about 10 - 15 cm. You just need to see if the roots of garden plants will be damaged.
• Tamp down the soil, add a little clay (greasy) and compact again. This will create a primary waterproofing layer.
• Arrange a "pillow". You will need sand of coarse fractions (river) or ASG.
• Cover the bottom with polyethylene film (thick). It is better not to use roofing material. In the ground, it will last 2 - 3 years at most, and then it will have to be changed.
• Prepare the timber. In this case, in each workpiece, it is necessary to make 2 - 3 holes with a drill.
• Lay the timber in the resulting "groove" and fasten the individual parts (staples, plates, corners).
• Check the conformity of the entire assembly to the horizontal plane. Align if necessary.
• Drive pins into the holes. They will prevent (together with the "pillow") the displacement of the timber during the movement of the soil. It is not difficult to make from a reinforcing bar for 10 - 12. If you think about durability, then it is advisable to first immerse the pins in the molten tar, and only then install them in the landing nests. This surface protection will protect the metal from corrosion.

All these operations can be done with their own hands by any man, even not particularly versed in the nuances of construction.

Greenhouse frame

Another advantage of such a foundation is that you do not have to do the strapping, that is, to mount the support frame. The laid timber will perform this function. It is easy to attach vertical posts from the same blanks to it. Depending on the size of the greenhouse, you can also use a smaller beam. Here you should focus on the type of glazing. If a film or polycarbonate is chosen, then the load on the "skeleton" will be small.

In regions with snowy winters, it is impractical to use glass, and here's why. The film can be removed, the polycarbonate on the roof can be bent, thereby ensuring natural snow melting. You can't do that with glass. We'll either have to dismantle the top for the winter, or take thicker samples. And this is a significant weight that requires reinforcement of the entire structure, and a rise in the cost of construction. One of the advantages of doing it yourself - cost effectiveness - is lost.

Surface treatment of the frame

Simple - not entirely practical. An aluminum primer should be applied in one layer. And only then - paint. Preferably, the category is moisture-repellent. It will cost more, but it will last for a couple of years. When using cheaper formulations, it will be necessary to paint annually, or even twice. In aggregate, the price is about the same.

Everything else - doors, vents, shelves, water supply, light - at the discretion of the owner. In principle, the internal structure of the greenhouse is a topic that requires separate consideration. With your own hands, you can make it as convenient as possible. The main thing is to provide normal conditions for cultivated plants.

The specifics of using the structure are also taken into account - whether only for growing seedlings, or for year-round harvesting. In the latter case, you need to consider the option of insulating the structure. For example, equip another layer of film inside the greenhouse, "fastening" it to the frame. The same goes for automation. If the owner permanently resides on the site, then she may not be needed.

General instructions are more than detailed. And on which drawing (diagram) to choose is at your discretion, dear reader. The main thing is that everything works out with your own hands, without outside help.

Building your own greenhouse is a fun process. Firstly, I just want to admire my own creation, and secondly, the structure turns out exactly as it was seen in the imagination. And most importantly, a home-made greenhouse is cheaper than a factory building.

Construction and functionality of a greenhouse made of wood

The greenhouse has a frame structure and is made of beams. The connection of the purlins is provided by the upper and lower struts. The upper part of the frame consists of rafter legs.

The structure is composed of many bars fixed at the same distance from each other

A door frame is inserted in one end side of the greenhouse. She, the walls and the roof of the building are covered with foil, glass or polycarbonate.

A plastic wrap is often stretched over the wooden frame of the greenhouse.

A greenhouse as a structure with a wooden frame, finished with some transparent but durable material, performs certain tasks:

• collects heat radiation coming from the outside and retains it, creating the necessary conditions for the rapid growth of plants;
• protects vegetables from negative environmental influences: strong wind, snow, pests and animals that can break the stems of plants.

Drawings and diagrams of wooden buildings of various configurations

The greenhouse can be single-pitched, attached to a building or free-standing on the site.

The structure with a pitched roof is assembled from longitudinal, vertical and transverse wooden elements

Another option for a greenhouse is a building with a gable roof tilted by more than 30 degrees.

The height of the structure excluding the roof is 1.5 meters

An arched design for growing plants is no less popular. The difference between this building is the vaulted ceiling, which makes the greenhouse beautiful and very warm.

To create a greenhouse frame, you can use bars with a section of 30 × 40 mm in combination with arcs

The weight of a wooden structure is significant, so it requires installation on a solid base. But some do without it, using boards or pins as anchors.

The ends of the structure posts can be wrapped in polyethylene, immersed in the ground and covered with rubble, which will ensure their reliable fixation without using a foundation

However, the foundation is important for any large structure. A particularly secure base is required for a greenhouse that is placed on a slope. It is customary to fix a plant for growing plants on a strip brick or columnar foundation.

The columnar foundation will provide reliable fastening of the structure, although, unlike the strip base, it is constructed of a small amount of materials

But most often, in order to spend a minimum of finance and at the same time fix the greenhouse well in its place, use a base of thick beams.

Crushed stone is necessarily poured under the base of the beams and a waterproofing sheet is laid

When drawing up a drawing, one must understand that the functionality of the greenhouse depends on its dimensions. The optimal building dimensions are 3 meters wide and 6 meters long.

The greenhouse should be such that there is enough space in it for both plants and people

The height of the structure is always determined by the height of the person. To make it convenient for the gardener to care for the plants, there must be at least 2.5 meters of free space from the ground surface to the highest point of the roof. In a gable structure, the height of the walls is usually 2 meters.

Making a greenhouse too high is pointless. It will wobble from side to side and will not be able to warm up to the desired temperature.

The subtleties of choosing a material for building a greenhouse

In order to build a good, reliable greenhouse, you need to choose high-quality material. It must be strong, lightweight and resistant to external influences.

Material for timber frame

The reliable wooden frame of the greenhouse is the guarantee of its long service life. Therefore, it is better to build the frame from larch - a type of wood that does not rot for a long time and is characterized by high strength.

In addition to larch, beams cut from spruce and pine are suitable for the construction of a greenhouse, but they are less durable. This means that non-hardwood lumber must be thicker.

The beams for the construction of a greenhouse are chosen carefully, screening out defects.

The greenhouse frame should be made of planks or beams with the following characteristics:

• humidity not more than 20%;
• perfect appearance (without rot and traces of wood damage by bark beetles);
• flat surface (chips, cracks and knots are signs of defective material).

The dimensions of the beams from which the building frame will be assembled depend on the weight of the covering material. In most cases, the wooden frame of the greenhouse is covered with a polyethylene film with a thickness of 100 to 200 microns, glass with a density of 5 to 10 mm, and four-millimeter polycarbonate.

Gardeners are more accustomed to covering the greenhouse frame with foil rather than glass or polycarbonate.

Covering material

The choice of covering material for the greenhouse plays a very important role. After all, it is on it that the main function of the greenhouse lies: to retain heat, which will ensure the rapid growth of plants. There are three main covering materials.

1. Film. The material is lightweight and therefore does not exert pressure on the wood. This means that you can safely use medium-sized building materials as racks and rafters of the structure, for example, 5 × 5 cm beams.But the base of the greenhouse should be made of lumber with parameters 5 × 10 cm, because it will have to experience significant loads.

   The film is able to hold a relatively thin beam

2. Glass. This covering material needs reliable support. It is more advisable to make the racks of the frame of a glass greenhouse from beams with a thickness of at least 7 cm and a width of 7 to 9 cm.And the rafter system is better to be built from sawn timber with parameters 4.5 × 9 cm.

   A thin beam will not withstand the pressure of glass, therefore, for the construction of the skeleton of a glass greenhouse, a material with a thickness of at least 7 cm is used

3. Polycarbonate. The greenhouse, which it was decided to cover with polycarbonate sheets, requires the construction of a skeleton of materials with different sections. For the ridge of the roof and the base of the structure, beams with a size of 5 × 10 cm are suitable.The door frame and pillars are supposed to be made of wooden elements with a cross section of 5 × 5 cm, and the door leaf and the frame of the vents are made of a bar with parameters of 5 × 4 cm. greenhouses will do well with boards measuring 40 × 180 mm.

   In a polycarbonate greenhouse, it is customary to make only the base of the structure super strong.

Preparation for construction

We will be building a classic timber frame greenhouse. Glass was chosen as a covering material.

Necessary materials

To build a greenhouse, you must purchase the following materials:

• crushed stone;
• roofing material;

  Roofing material - material for waterproofing structures

• 4 beams 9 cm thick, 9 cm wide and 4.2 m long;
• 4 beams 9 cm thick, 9 cm wide and 3 m long;
• 12 beams 9 cm thick, 9 cm wide and 3.6 m long;
• 38 beams 9 cm thick, 9 cm wide and 1.8 m long;
• 2 carriages (half-beam) with a section of 4.5x9 cm and a length of 3 m;
• 4 carriages with a section of 4.5x9 cm and a length of 4.2 m;
• 24 carriages with a section of 4.5x9 cm and a length of 2.4 m;
• 28 carriages with a section of 4.5x9 cm and a length of 1.8 m;
• 34 carriages with a section of 4.5x9 cm and a length of 1.2 m;
• 102 carriages with a section of 4.5x9 cm and a length of 90 cm;
• 8 plywood sheets measuring 12x1220x2440 mm;
• 34 m² of glass with a thickness of 10 mm (18 m² of material will go to the walls, and 16 m² to the roof);
• antiseptic composition for wood processing;
• steel cornice;
• 3 pairs of door hinges;
• door handles and locks;
• sealant;
• glazing beads.

  The function of glazing beads is to ensure reliable fastening of the glass to the sealant

Instruments

Greenhouse construction work involves the use of tools and fasteners such as:

Phased construction of a wooden greenhouse

A greenhouse with a wooden frame, trimmed with glass, is built step by step:

1. On the site, they mark the perimeter of the building. For this, pegs and fishing line are used.

   It is advised to mark the perimeter of the greenhouse with pegs.

2. They dig a trench 1 meter deep and 50 cm wide. The bottom is covered with rubble, which is carefully pressed. Roofing material is placed on the tamped stones, and on it is a foundation made of 4 thick beams 4.2 and 3 meters long. The wooden base is covered with an antiseptic.

   The base of the greenhouse is placed on compacted rubble

3. Wall racks are placed on the foundation, that is, beams with a cross section of 9 × 9 cm. For a while, these wooden elements are propped up with boards. How level the racks stand is checked with the level and length of the cord.

   First, they put the racks, and then proceed to the installation of the upper strapping

4. At the top, the racks are fastened to each other with a strapping, the beams of which are connected according to the "half-tree" method. Runs on the side of the structure are marked for the installation of rafters. In the marked points, sloped nests are hollowed out.

   At one end of the bar, a cut is made to half of its thickness, on the other bar, the same cut is made, but on the other side of the end

5. Collect the gables of the roof frame. Racks for them are built from thick boards. The wooden element, which will become the ridge, is placed under the rafter legs in the pre-created grooves. The flatness of the finished slope is evaluated by means of a cord. The rafter legs are treated with an antiseptic compound.

   The first to collect the gables located on the edge of the structure

6. Greenhouse frames are made from 4.5x9 cm beams. It is important to connect the parts to each other at the same angle. In the manufactured frame, grooves are created. Planks are inserted into them - elements of the canvas.
7. Upper frames are made for installing glass. Only well-dried boards are used as panels.
8. Starting from the ends of the frame, panels previously assembled from the boards are attached to the nails for finishing. Later, the same task is performed on the sides of the greenhouse. At the same time, do not forget that the width of the side panels is greater than that of the end panels. Sheathing plates are placed between the racks and covered with an antiseptic.

   The end panels are assembled first, and then the wide side

9. Simple door frames are inserted into two openings at the ends of the structure. The door is fully glazed. The handle is attached to an additional wooden element.
10. A small section rail is attached to the details of the pediment, which is called glazing bead. The element is covered with a sealant, and already cut glass is placed in the formed grooves. Their attachment from the outside is carried out using thin nails.

    Glass is inserted using sealant and glazing beads

11. The roof of the greenhouse is glazed in the same way as the walls. As a support, a rail is used, nailed to the sides of the rafters in a special way: with an indent from the upper edge by the thickness of the glass blank and glazing bead. The glasses are inserted using a sealant and fixed with glazing beads and nails on a thin leg.
12. Having glazed the roof, a wind board is nailed to the end parts of the rafter legs.

    The greenhouse is only half glazed, which makes it original and durable

Video: do-it-yourself greenhouse from a bar

Features of finishing the greenhouse

If you want to make the greenhouse beautiful, then it is recommended to treat its wooden elements from the outside with breathable facade paint. We are talking about a water dispersion coloring emulsion.

You can apply paint at temperatures above three degrees Celsius. Only under such conditions the coloring composition dries for two days, and then crystallizes within three days.

However, many gardeners say that there is no special need for paint. It will not improve the functionality of the greenhouse, but will only make the building look attractive.

As a result of special processing, the wood is covered with a protective film

When you want to achieve both the attractiveness and durability of the greenhouse frame, you should use wood impregnation. This product has a pleasant color, protects the wood from damage by bacteria and insures it against decay.

It is recommended to treat wooden elements with impregnation both outside and inside the greenhouse. In order for the tool to be useful, it is required to apply it on the surface in 2 or 3 layers, which depends on the financial capabilities of the owner of the building.

Photo gallery: timber framed greenhouses

Greenhouse according to Meathlider stands out from the rest with an unusual roof structure Warm air in the tent structure is collected under the roof and expelled thanks to the windows, which provides better ventilation for the plants The arched greenhouse along the Mitlider ensures the flow of fresh air into the structure An arched greenhouse with a wooden frame is often covered with polycarbonate A wooden greenhouse can be built from old wooden window frames If possible, you can attach the greenhouse to one of the walls of the heated house - this will provide additional heat inside the structure One of the ways to combat the negative effects of the external environment on the greenhouse is to paint the frame with paint and varnish material, which will restrain the destruction of the structure. It is difficult to build a round greenhouse made of wood due to the large number of parts and docking corners, but outwardly the greenhouse looks very impressive

There is absolutely nothing stopping the owner of the summer cottage from building a greenhouse of the desired configuration based on wood. This material can be combined with any covering materials. To make a greenhouse out of it, you just need to thoroughly study the instructions.