Plasterboard wall cladding provides for the device or wooden beams. Metal lathing is mainly used, it is more durable and more practical.

In rooms with normal and dry temperature and humidity conditions for the frame, it is permissible to use wooden blocks, humidity 12%, impregnated with antiseptic and fire retardant compounds. In places with high humidity, as well as where it is required to increase the fire resistance of structures, only metal carcass.

What kind of timber is needed

For the device of wooden frames, choose a bar with a section of 50x30 and 60x40 mm (ceilings), 40x25 (walls). Basic requirements for the material: moisture - no more than 12%, no cracks and other defects. The common nature of the tree is pine.

What fasteners and connection methods are needed

The connection of the frame parts, their fastening to the wall and ceiling are performed dowel-nails... In concrete surfaces, holes are pre-made with a perforator with a drill, the diameter of which corresponds to the diameter of the dowel.

Additional fasteners include metal corners... They join vertical racks with horizontal ones. The fastening of the guides of the wooden beams is carried out in increments of 40-60 cm (the distance between the nearest posts).

The metal plate is applicable for both walls and ceilings

The connection of the elements of the wooden frame with each other is performed self-tapping screws angled or metal perforated corners... The installation of the bars on the wall is done with an indent from it, using ceiling and floor starting profiles or without indentation, when the starting bars are not needed, and the vertical posts are attached directly to the wall. If it is a curve, it is leveled with special compounds or by placing wooden spacers in the right places.

Requirements for materials and rules of work

In the set of rules for design and construction, there are basic requirements that must be met to create a strong frame and the subsequent placement of sheets. Here are the main ones:

1. All products and materials must have a hygienic certificate and fire certificates;
2. In the space between the frame and the rough base, where the operating conditions require it, it is necessary to place heat, sound, fire insulating material;
3. Water absorption of waterproof and water-resistant plasterboard sheets should be no more than 10%;
4. GKLVO sheets (moisture-resistant) are used in rooms with an air humidity of no more than 90%, a temperature not exceeding 30C. When using them, waterproof primers, putties, paints are used for surface treatment;
5. To fasten GKL sheets with a thickness of not more than 15 mm to a wooden frame, TN35 screws are used, up to 24 mm thick - TN45;
6. With the longitudinal placement of the sheets, the step of their attachment is made no more than 60 cm, with the transverse - no more than 1.25 m;
7. For improvement sound insulation properties the structure between the guide rails, the ceiling and the floor, a sealing tape is laid;
8. Fixation of sheets to the frame is carried out with self-tapping screws with a pitch of 25 cm, (spacing) with an indent from the edges - 10 mm (edge ​​with cardboard), 15 mm - (cut edge);
9. The joints of the sheets with their vertical arrangement should fall on the center of the racks, with the horizontal - on additional bars placed between the vertical racks;
10. The pitch of the load-bearing beams on the ceiling is 50 cm with the transverse arrangement of the gypsum board, 40 cm - with the vertical one;
11. The step of fixing the gypsum board on the ceiling is no more than 17 cm.

Step-by-step construction instructions

The installation of the frame on the wall should be carried out after the end of the wet processes and before the assembly of the finished floor, on the ceiling - after the completion of the finishing and laying of utilities. All work is carried out in the following order:

1. Markup;
2. Frame assembly;
3. Installation of sheets;
4. Finishing work.

1. Markup

On the floor and ceiling, the position of the future starting beams of the frame is applied with a chopping cord, taking into account their thickness. The transfer of marks between the floor and the ceiling is carried out with a laser level or a magnetic plummet. At the same time, the location is marked doorways, the places of attachment of the vertical racks, taking into account the selected step.

Attention. It is necessary that the joint of the sheets falls on the center of the vertical posts. To do this, make an accurate calculation, and, if necessary, increase or decrease the step of the profiles in the right places.

2. Assembling the frame

Along the marked lines on the floor and ceiling, the starting bars are fixed with dowel-nails, at least 3.5 cm long. Next, vertical bars are installed adjacent to the walls. Their length should be such that they fit snugly between the guides. Fix the elements with self-tapping screws or metal corners... At this stage, the selected area of ​​the room should be framed around the perimeter.

Insulation is laid in the frame

Attention! If you plan to place insulation in the space between the frame and the wall, you need to take this into account at the calculation stage by placing the starting bar at a tedious distance from the wall.

At the second stage, vertical beams are mounted with the selected step. To provide additional rigidity of the structure, it is reinforced with racks located horizontally between them.

Laying of communications

If it is planned to place sanitary pipelines and low-current wiring (TV, Internet, telephone), this must be done after assembling the frame. To simplify the process of placing vertical beams, metal profiles can be used as starting guides on the floor and ceiling.

3. Installation of sheets

The sheets are placed on the frame, fitting close to the wall and ceiling, fixed with self-tapping screws from the center to the edges or simultaneously in the vertical and horizontal planes (alternately). Self-tapping caps are recessed by 1 mm. A gap of 1-1.5 cm is left between the sheets and the floor, subsequently sealing it with a sealant.

Attention. If the self-tapping screw does not enter the material at a right angle or is deformed, it is replaced with another, placing it at a distance of at least 5 cm from the first.

Joints between sheets with or without reinforcing tape, depending on the type of plasterboard edge. Putty compound is applied in 2 layers - starting and finishing and should not protrude beyond the seam. The corners are processed using a reinforcing tape, bending it under the right angle... After drying with the solution, the surface of the sheets is finished, followed by the placement of the facing material.

Plasterboard lining

Plasterboard wall cladding is a practical and common way inside apartments and houses. GKL allows you to align walls and ceilings. A widespread method is when the sheets are mounted on a frame made of wooden battens or metal profiles. If you need to save money or time, the question arises: can drywall be fixed directly to the wall? Yes, there are cases when the crate can be omitted. Aligning the walls with plasterboard without a frame is performed on practically flat bases different types... The photo below shows a room with walls and ceilings covered with gypsum plasterboard.

Fastening drywall to a wall without a profile is the best option on flat surfaces. An important role is played by the degree of deviation from the plane. A frameless wall cladding method is applicable if the differences do not exceed 5 cm.When they are larger, they often install a crate.

On uneven planes, gypsum boards are fixed using beacons. Due to this, the installation of sheets occurs immediately according to the level. Without lighthouses, you can mount it with a lot of experience, or in small areas.

You can control the degree of curvature of the base using a building level and a long rule.

Existing methods of attaching drywall to a wall without a profile allow it to be mounted on different types of surfaces. It is possible to fasten the sheets:

• against a brick wall;
• on partitions made of porous concrete, monolith, panels, limestone, shell rock, cinder block and plastered;
• on a wooden surface.

Installation of gypsum board on foam concrete

Gluing sheets on a foam concrete base is shown in the photo above.

Plasterboard wall decoration without a frame and profile is beneficial for the following reasons:

• this method of finishing reduces the cost of material for the lathing;
• money is also saved on its installation (if it was planned to attract a specialist);
• the volume of the room practically does not decrease;
• terms are shortened facing works, and the process itself is simplified.

The following requirements are imposed on the surfaces that are planned to be sewn up with plasterboard sheets:

• the base must be strong, smooth, without significant defects and fungus;
• it is required that wall surface has been protected from moisture.

If the sticking method is used, then it is recommended to remove old paint, pollutants (dust, oil stains).

A big plus of decorating walls with plasterboard without a frame with your own hands is that the process is faster and easier than if you need to first create a lathing.

Preparatory activities

Before fixing this material to the wall without profiles, you should decide what thickness to choose drywall, prepare the required tools. Everything you need for different mounting methods is presented in the table below.

Some tools and materials are used only for certain methods of installing gypsum boards.

The photo above shows a bag of gypsum glue used for drywall to glue it on.

In work, you cannot do without a stepladder or other device for high-altitude work.

Mounting drywall on walls without a frame requires a number of conditions to be met:

• the temperature during work must exceed +10 degrees, therefore, at lower values, it is necessary to take care of the organization of heating;
• it is necessary that the walls in the room to be repaired be dry;
• in the presence of high humidity in the rooms, moisture-resistant types of facing material are used;
• before installation, it is recommended that the sheets lie for 3 days in the room;
• the base for the installation of gypsum plasterboard must be integral, not fall apart, otherwise it will need to be pre-strengthened.

The quality of the result directly depends on how the preparation was carried out correctly. Due to the fact that all the necessary tools and materials will be pre-assembled, there is no need to be distracted during work. Maintaining the required microclimate is required condition during finishing.

Methods for fixing the gypsum board without installing the frame

In practice, several ways are used of how to level the walls with drywall without a frame. They differ in the materials used for this and the technology of work. The use of the frameless method makes it possible to sheathe walls or ceilings of rooms and offices, directly fixing the sheets to their surface.

In practice, 2 options are used on how to fix drywall without installing the crate. But at the same time, different materials are used. Here's how you can attach the sheets:

• self-tapping screws (for wood), or dowels;
• glue, "liquid nails", polyurethane foam.

Application of polyurethane foam

The photo above shows the application of polyurethane foam to the sheet, then to fix it on the wall.

General scheme of work for any installation method:

• prepare the base;
• fix drywall;
• close up the joints.

Additional strengthening measures are not required. Installation methods can be combined with each other. So, the glued cladding can additionally be fixed with self-tapping screws or dowels.

Depending on the variant of the subsequent cladding, the surface can be further putty and then sanded and primed.

The choice of one or another option is determined by both personal preferences and the evenness and material from which the partitions are built. So, drywall to concrete wall(flat) glued or fixed with dowels. The leveled wooden surface is sheathed using self-tapping screws.

Fixation method with self-tapping screws, dowels

Plasterboard wall cladding without a frame using self-tapping screws is possible if there is a base made of a suitable material: wood, foam concrete or gypsum. The workflow consists of the following activities:

• remove the existing protrusions: the wooden partitions are leveled by cutting them with a hatchet, or with a chisel with a hammer, and walls made of foam concrete (gypsum) - with a perforator with an inserted chisel;
• fix plasterboard sheets with a pitch of 25-35 cm, using a staggered order of their location on the surface of the base, with hardware 3.9x25 mm or 3.9x35 mm long (on a flat wooden surface) and 3.9x45 mm (on aerated concrete, gypsum).

Fastening the gypsum board with self-tapping screws

After screwing in with a screwdriver, the screw head should be slightly "recessed" in the cladding.

The photo below shows the process of fixing a plasterboard fragment to a wooden ceiling.

It should be borne in mind that a strong tightening of hardware in the locations of the depressions causes deformation of the material. To avoid this, the sheets fall short, leaving a slight gap between them and the surface. The strength of the created structure will not decrease.

When it is impossible to screw the screws into the wall (the base is made of concrete, brick, cinder block), then the alignment of the walls with plasterboard without a profile is performed using driven dowels for installation. Their length for unplastered surfaces should be 6x40 mm or 6x60 mm. If the thickness of the cladding layer exceeds 2 cm, then hardware 6x80 or 8x100 mm are used.

The technology consists of the following operations:

• using a perforator or a hammer with a chisel, level the base, removing defective areas;
• when the sheet is installed, then a hole is drilled through it;
• insert the plastic part;
• hammer or twist a metal core, placing a washer under the head;
• thus, the entire room is sheathed, cutting the sheets if necessary.

The underlay for the head of the metal core can be made from a U-shaped attachment for the profile. To do this, it is cut into plates with metal scissors.

In the places of the depressions, the core is not finished off so that the sheet does not bend.

When all the sheets are attached, then they begin to seal the seams. With flat base surfaces, the use of hardware allows you to quickly sheathe a room or office space.

Bonding technology

For leveling walls with plasterboard on glue, in addition to gypsum compositions, polyurethane foam and "liquid nails" are usually used. Homemade solutions are also used, for example, based on putty and PVA. At the same time, the techniques for applying the compositions to the surface of the material to be installed differ.

Before you start attaching drywall to the wall, you should prepare it in a special way. The process consists of the following steps:

• the working area is cleaned of old finish(paint, wallpaper, defective plaster);
• close up cracks;
• apply a primer in two layers;
• dowels are hammered in the corners (screws are screwed in);
• using a plumb line or level, pull threads (thin strings) between them;
• in the highlighted square, lying at an angle of 90 ° relative to the floor, consider the surface irregularities;
• if deviations of more than 2 cm are detected, the substrate is prepared from fragments from the material to be installed (the sufficient width of the pieces is 10 cm);
• make markings for fixed sheets of drywall on a wall without a frame.

When sketching the location of the fragments, the gaps between the edges of the gypsum board and the floor (0.7-1 cm), the ceiling (0.3-0.5 mm) are taken into account. Open areas (exit of communications) are also taken into account when marking.

It is convenient to use a laser level for marking.

To attach drywall to a wall without a profile with deviations of more than 2 cm, it is recommended to install beacons. To do this, proceed as follows:

• pull the threads horizontally along the level with a step of 50 cm;
• under them (also after half a meter), beacons-cakes made of glue are applied;
• control the level of the thread;
• allow the lighthouses to dry before attaching drywall to walls without a frame.

In the role of beacons, you can also use plasterboard strips with a length along the height of the room, glued vertically after 50 cm. In addition to guiding functions, they serve as support points for leaning gypsum boards.

Variants of leveling the base by gluing the gypsum board

The figure below shows options for leveling walls of various curvatures with plasterboard when mounted on glue.

• expect complete drying primers;
• apply fragmentarily a glue mass (with a height greater by 2 cm between the back side of the gypsum board and the surface of the base) at a distance of about 40 cm from each other over the entire surface of the sheet;
• in the same way, cover the base with the composition;
• press the plasterboard fragment against the wall;
• knock him out rubber hammer to lean against the lighthouses.

Installation of gypsum board on adhesives is considered a more complex and painstaking way, compared to fixing with dowels (self-tapping screws). It is recommended to use primers for surface treatment before gluing. deep penetration with antiseptic properties.

The use of mounting glue for fixing drywall is demonstrated in the video below.

Installation using polyurethane foam is shown in the following video.

The use of frameless methods allows you to both level the wall with drywall without a profile, and save money at work and material. The savings figure can reach almost 60% compared to the frame version. The sheets fixed according to the selected technology will hold securely. At the same time, it is easier to work on your own and faster (especially on level bases) than using a crate.

Related articles:

Plasterboard is probably the most popular residential sheet material. Traditionally, it is mounted on a batten or frame made of bar or galvanized profiles. In this article, I'm going to talk about how it looks like fastening drywall to a wall without a profile.

Installation of moisture-resistant plasterboard on the wall without lathing.

Why drywall

pros

1. Why GKL is used for leveling and rough wall decoration?

Here are the reasons for it:

• Large sheet area reduces finishing time;

Reference: a standard GKL sheet with a size of 2500x1200 mm has an area of ​​3 square meters. The area of ​​a sheet measuring 3000x1200 is even more impressive - 3.6 m2.

Standard dimensions and weight of plasterboard.

• Drywall is permeable to air and water vapor. This means that the room will not be stuffy even with the windows closed. Of course, provided that the main walls have at least the same vapor and air permeability;

The vapor permeability of the building envelope must always increase from the inside out. Otherwise, instead of filtering water vapor into the street, the owner will receive its accumulation in the thickness of the wall. Moisturizing will help you fall thermal insulation qualities and a decrease in the service life of walls and floors.

Dependence of the state of the enclosing structures on the vapor permeability of the wall layers, thermal insulation and decoration.

• The price of a gypsum board sheet looks very attractive against the background of plaster. According to Crimean prices, plastering a square meter of a wall costs at least 400 rubles without the cost of materials. At the same time, a sheet of ordinary, non-moisture-resistant drywall with an area of ​​3 square meters can be bought for 300 rubles. Its installation on the wall, in contrast to its plastering, does not require experience and special skills;
• GKL surface is compatible with any tile adhesives and is suitable for wallpapering any wallpaper glue. Without exception, all putties also have excellent adhesion to kraft paper - the top layer of gypsum plasterboard;
• Plasterboard compares favorably with a related material - gypsum fiber sheet in that even with cracks in the gypsum core, two layers of kraft paper keep it in the same plane. The broken sheet can be used to level the walls, provided the fracture area is securely fastened.

This feature of the material is useful when assembling arches: the gypsum board is notched and bent, then its surface is leveled with putty.

Minuses

1. Does the gypsum board have disadvantages that it is useful for the buyer to know about??

I would politically correctly call them not shortcomings, but features of the material:

• All gypsum-based materials are not friendly with water. Yes, gypsum plasterboard (gypsum plasterboard) tolerates dampness well due to the low hygroscopicity of the core and antifungal additives in gypsum, however, direct contact with water is contraindicated for it;

However: the problem is successfully solved by using fine finish premises of water-impermeable materials. In my bathroom plasterboard walls and the ceiling are painted with rubber waterproofing paint, which allows them to withstand constant contact with splashes of water and occasional wet cleaning using any non-abrasive cleaning agent.

The wall above the tiled backsplash and the ceiling in the bathroom are painted with rubber water-dispersion paint.

• GCR has a very limited strength. If you accidentally hit a drywall wall while carrying furniture, you can break it through. To increase the strength of the partitions, their sheathing along the frame is usually made two-layer; however, installation to a wall without a profile implies installation of the sheet only and exclusively in one layer;
• After leveling the gypsum board, it is problematic to hang a shelf or cabinet on a plasterboard partition or a main wall. Of course, this problem also has a solution, which I will discuss in the corresponding section of the article; however, our material is clearly inferior to the comparison with a main wall in terms of the ease of installation of hinged furniture.

Cabinets are easier to hang on concrete or brick walls.

Installation without profile

What is profitable

1. Why do you need to install drywall on a wall without a profile?

There are at least two good reasons for this:

• Reduced installation costs. The average consumption of Perlfix gypsum glue, which (a little running ahead) is used for mounting drywall on main walls, is 5 kg / sheet at a cost of a 30-kilogram bag from 285 rubles. Thus, the cost of installing one sheet (if, of course, all the work is done by hand) will be only 285/6 = 47.5 rubles;

Glue gypsum Perlfix... Packing - 30 kilograms, cost - from 285 rubles.

Let me clarify: in practice, the consumption of glue can increase significantly with significant unevenness of the base. In addition, I did not take into account the cost of priming the wall (however, very insignificant).

At the same time, for the installation of the same sheet on a crate made of ceiling profile required:

Galvanized profile plasterboard lathing.

At the most humane prices I have found (they are offered by the Leroy Merlin online store), this set will cost about 250 rubles;

• In addition, fixing drywall to a wall without profiles will significantly increase the free space of the room. Let's do one more simple calculation: find out how much space the frame will take with an average distance from the wall to the GKL sheet of 5 centimeters and a room size of 4x5 meters.

The perimeter of the room is 4 + 4 + 5 + 5 = 18 meters; the total area of ​​the gap between the wall and the drywall is 18 mx 0.05 m = 0.9 m2. Almost 1/20 of the area of ​​the room will be inaccessible for use only thanks to the crate.

If you glue the gypsum board directly on the walls, the costs useful area will be limited only by the size of irregularities on the main wall (as a rule, no more than 5 - 10 mm).

Restrictions

1. How to find out if it is possible to mount the gypsum board directly on the wall?

It's simple: if the curvature, blockage or drops in the wall do not exceed 5 centimeters, you can do without the lathing. If the size of the irregularities is larger, it is still better to assemble the frame from the profile: the costs of funds and space of the room will be comparable or will change in favor of installation on the crate.

A long rule and level will help you assess the curvature and blockage of the walls.

1. On which walls can drywall be attached without lathing?

Different ways of attaching drywall to a wall without a profile allow installation:

• On main walls and partitions made of brick, limestone, shell rock, concrete (panels and monolith), gas and foam concrete;
• On wooden partitions (frame and board, plastered and unplastered).

Partitions in stalinka - plank, plastered on shingles.

Technology

For self-tapping screws

1. How to install drywall on a wooden partition in a stalinka?

If it does not have significant irregularities, the gypsum board can be fastened with self-tapping screws directly to the wall surface. When decorating the walls in the kitchen of one of my old apartments, I didn't even knock down the plaster; due to its thickness, it was necessary to use self-tapping screws with a length of 70 mm for fastening.

1. What screws to use?

Black phosphated. For wood or gypsum board - all the same: they differ only in the pitch of the carving. Self-tapping screws for gypsum plasterboard and drywall have a smaller pitch, due to which it is more difficult to push the sheet through with a hat.

1 - self-tapping screw for drywall and gypsum plasterboard, 2 - self-tapping screw for wood.

1. How to screw in self-tapping screws?

Only with a screwdriver - battery or mains powered. After screwing hundreds of self-tapping screws onto one sheet of drywall with a screwdriver, hands feel, frankly, not very good.

Cordless drywall screwdriver.

1. Is it necessary to reinforce the seams with this installation method?

Necessarily, because with fluctuations in humidity and temperature, the geometry of the wooden partitions will inevitably change. I will tell you how to do this a little later.

1. How to level a wall with drywall without a profile if it is built of bricks or foam blocks? How to fix the gypsum board?

It can be attached:

• On the gypsum glue I have already mentioned;
• On polyurethane foam;

Polyurethane foam has excellent adhesion to any surface.

• If the base has irregularities of no more than 3-5 mm - on liquid nails or any other construction glue.

On glue

1. How to attach drywall to a wall without a profile using liquid nails?

• The base is cleaned from peeling plaster, dirt, glossy paint and other weak and low-adhesive coatings;
• Protrusions with a height of more than 3-5 millimeters are removed with a chisel or perforator;
• The wall is primed over the entire area with acrylic penetrating primer. You need to prime it twice without intermediate drying. The primer will glue the remaining dust and strengthen the surface, preventing the plasterboard from peeling off along with the top layer of the base. The primer is applied by spray, roller with long pile or with a soft wide brush;

Priming the main wall under the GKL sticker.

• After complete drying of the soil, recesses in the wall with a width of more than 10 centimeters are sealed with cement - sand mortar... You can use a homemade mortar of Portland cement and sifted sand in a 1: 3 ratio, as well as any cement plaster or putty;
• The filling is re-primed after drying;
• After the soil has completely dried, glue is applied to the back surface of the drywall sheet in strips. The step between the strips is 10-15 cm;

This is how liquid nails are applied to the back of the sheet.

• The sheet is pressed tightly against the wall and is supported by several inclined boards at different heights.

Foam

1. How to fix drywall with foam?

From liquid nails and others building adhesives foam has two features:

• It perfectly fills all the recesses in the wall. If so, they do not need to be repaired - it is enough to remove protrusions with a height of more than 5 millimeters;
• The foam expands on setting. Therefore, we will have to fix the sheet against the wall for 30 - 60 minutes after sticking it.

How to do it? Here's a simple instruction:

• Putting the sheet against the wall and supporting it with a pair of inclined boards, mark and drill 8 holes for dowel screws approximately 8x80 mm in size in the sheet and the wall at an equal distance from each other;
• Apply foam to the back of the sheet - pointwise in 20 cm increments or in strips around the perimeter and inside the sheet;
• Press the sheet against the wall and fix it with dowel screws. Their caps do not need to be heated below the surface level, as when installing on a frame: after the foam has set, the screws can be removed or, conversely, screwed in to the level of the main wall and hide the holes with putty.

Plasterboard slopes are planted on foam and fixed with dowel screws for the time of its setting.

The position of the sheet strictly in the vertical plane must be controlled with a long level or a rule and a plumb line. The dowel screws will prevent the drywall from bending away from the wall, and the expansion of the foam will prevent the bending in the opposite direction.

On gypsum glue

1. How to fix drywall on a wall without a profile with gypsum glue?

First of all: not only specialized glue (Perlfix, Volma Montage, etc.) is suitable for this purpose, but also any gypsum plaster or plaster. Their price is approximately equal to the cost of glue, the adhesive qualities also practically do not differ.

Plaster or putty can successfully replace gypsum adhesive.

In this case, work begins with the preparation of the wall. It must be free of dirt, dust free and primed with a penetrating acrylic primer twice.

The adhesive is prepared as follows:

• Glue, plaster or putty are poured into a wide container with water at the rate of 1 liter per 1.6 kg of the mixture. They are distributed as evenly as possible over the surface of the water;

The dry mixture is poured into water. If you pour water into gypsum glue, there will be many dry lumps at the bottom of the container.

• Then the future glue is kept for 3-5 minutes. During this time, the maximum volume of the dry mixture must be saturated with water;
• The mixture is mixed by hand (with a spatula or trowel) or with a mixer. A drill with an appropriate attachment is also suitable. Stir the mixture until a homogeneous consistency without lumps is obtained.

The glue can be applied equally well to the wall and the sheet itself. It seems to me more convenient to apply on the wall: the gypsum board already weighs 30 kg, and together with the glue it becomes very massive and inconvenient to move. The glue should be applied in blotches in 15 - 20 centimeters increments; a solid roller is needed only at the level of the plinth - it will noticeably simplify its fastening with dowel screws.

So gypsum glue is applied to the surface of the gypsum board.

Then the sheet is pressed against the wall and aligned using a level and a rule in the vertical plane. As a rule, he does not need additional fixation: the viscosity of the glue ensures the stability of the position. The position and bend of the gypsum board are corrected by light blows of the palm or a rubber mallet.

By the way: I used the same method of fastening drywall when finishing door and window slopes... The final gypsum plaster Eurogypsum was used as an adhesive.

The doorway slopes in the photo are finished with plasterboard, planted with Eurogips finishing putty.

A couple of nuances:

• When installing adjacent sheets, you need to pay Special attention the mutual position of their edges. The drops will have to be removed with a thick layer of putty, which will unjustifiably increase the cost and time for finishing;

The edges of adjacent sheets must be strictly in the same plane.

• On a curved wall with significant differences, it is worth preliminarily gluing beacons from gypsum board scraps to the same gypsum glue or putty. For the same purpose, you can use dowel screws partially screwed into the wall; the position of the sheet is corrected by screwing them in and out by a few turns.

Sheets are aligned in one plane using improvised beacons.

Sealing and filling

1. How to patch up seams between adjacent sheets?

Drywall (even moisture resistant) has a certain hygroscopicity and slightly changes its linear dimensions with fluctuations in humidity. The same thing happens with temperature changes: nobody canceled thermal expansion. Periodic changes in the dimensions of adjacent sheets sooner or later lead to the appearance of cracks along the seams separating them.

A few years after finishing the room, cracks appeared on the seams without reinforcement.

To prevent the seams from cracking, they need to be reinforced. For this purpose, serpyanka is traditionally used - a roll-up self-adhesive fiberglass mesh with a cell size of about 2 millimeters. It is glued along the seam, after which it is filled with putty right through the mesh.

Reinforcement of the seam with a serpentine.

The seam is putty in at least two passes. With the first pass, the seam cavity is filled with putty, with the second pass the glass mesh reinforcing the seam is covered. Sometimes a third pass is also required: the putty gives a slight but noticeable shrinkage during drying, and the seam after its setting looks concave.

The preparation and use of putty has several subtleties:

• It is prepared in small portions. The exact size of a single serving of putty depends on your putty skills. It seems to me convenient to use no more than one and a half kilograms of dry mixture at a time;

Putty is prepared in small portions. Lifetime ready mix does not exceed 30 - 40 minutes.

• You need to wash the dishes and spatulas before preparing each new portion. Otherwise, the old putty will form hard lumps in the solution. These lumps, when applied to the gypsum plasterboard, will leave untidy furrows in it;
• To fill the seam, it is convenient to use a spatula 10 - 12 cm wide. The seam is filled with sliding movements crosswise; in this case, both sides of it are filled with putty as evenly and tightly as possible;

The edges of the sheets cut to size are cut with a sharp knife before puttying.

• The second (covering) layer of putty is applied with movements along the seam with a spatula 30-35 centimeters wide. The putty is preliminarily applied to it with a narrow spatula.

I prefer to reinforce the seam not with a serpentine, but with rolled fiberglass: due to the smaller thickness of the material, the seam stands out less on the surface of adjacent sheets. Fiberglass is denser than mesh and does not allow filling the seam through it, therefore, the reinforcement technology is noticeably different from the one I described above:

• The seam is filled with putty (taking into account its shrinkage during drying - by two times);
• Then fiberglass is glued along the seam. Glue - diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 1 PVA. It is applied to glass mat laid over drywall scraps with a wide brush;

Rolled fiberglass. Due to its lower thickness, it gives a more accurate seam compared to a serpentine.

It is more convenient to cut the fiberglass for the sticker into pieces about a meter long.

• The reinforcing tape is pressed against the seam and smoothed out with a rubber or steel trowel. If you do this with bare hands, the skin will contain a lot of the finest fragments of fiberglass. These splinters are not very painful and come out quickly, but they noticeably interfere with work;
• After the glue has dried (it takes no more than an hour), the seam is covered with a final layer of putty and sanded.

1. Do I need to putty the entire surface of the drywall?

This is optional, but desirable. The putty creates a separating layer on the surface, allowing, if necessary, to peel off the wallpaper without peeling off upper layer kraft paper. In addition, surface filling will reliably mask the seams that stand out.

Puttying plasterboard-finished walls.

It is convenient to use a special angled spatula to level the corners.

Puttying the surface is easiest to perform in two layers "on the sdir": the putty is applied with a narrow spatula on a wide one and spread on the gypsum board with sliding movements as much as possible thin layer... After drying the first layer, the operation is repeated once more.

At least two weeks should elapse between plastering drywall and painting the walls with water-based paint. During this time, the remaining moisture will completely leave the seams. If you rush to paint, the seams will stand out in a dark tone with any number of layers of dye.

1. How to sand?

For this purpose, I use a vibratory sander with sanding nets # 80 (first pass) and # 120 (second pass) attached to it. It is best to sand with the brightest possible light, directed at an oblique angle to the surface: it will allow you to see the slightest irregularities thanks to cast or shadows.

Even an inexpensive vibratory sander will greatly speed up work compared to a hand-held grater.

Take the time to wear safety glasses and a gauze bandage or respirator. Gypsum dust is highly irritating to the eyes and mucous membranes.

Comrades! Do not neglect personal protective equipment!

Hanging furniture

1. How to fix on a wall covered with plasterboard hinged shelf or locker?

If the wall is sheathed with gypsum board on self-tapping screws or pasted over using construction glue, problems will not arise in principle: the sheet is tightly pressed against the wall, which makes it possible to use ordinary dowel screws of increased length for installation.

Foam or gypsum glue means that a gap remains between the sheet and the main wall, allowing the drywall to be washed out during installation.

At the stage of wall cladding, the problem is solved in two ways:

• In the place of the intended attachment of the hinged furniture, a continuous layer of gypsum glue, plaster or putty is applied to the back of the gypsum board or to the wall;

The more often the glue cakes are applied, the greater the load the facing will withstand.

• The GKL section is cut out, and instead of it, a wooden embedded part of the appropriate thickness is attached to the wall with dowel screws or anchors.

The latter method will also work if the drywall is already fixed: it is enough to cut it with a sharp knife along the perimeter of the embedded part and cut the gypsum glue with a chisel, after which the embedded from a bar or thick plywood is attached directly to the wall.

Finally, elongated anchors with a couple of additional threaded nuts can be used to attach hanging furniture directly through the drywall and the gap between it and the main wall. The fixing corners of the cabinets are clamped between these nuts.

To fix the cabinet, it is enough to provide the wedge anchor with a pair of additional nuts.

Molly anchors can be used for light shelves. They only stick to drywall.

Conclusion

I hope that my simple advice will help the dear reader in decorating his own home. As always, I would appreciate your comments and additions. The video in this article will offer you additional information. Good luck, comrades!

If you want to express gratitude, add clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Not a single renovation in our time is complete without drywall. The walls are constantly sheathed with this material, they are made of it various designs and they trim the ceilings. Typically for mounting drywall sheets the frame is pre-mounted on which the material is fixed. However, more and more people tend to attach drywall to the wall without a profile. What is the reason for this? Primarily with the desire to save time, money and labor.

But is it possible to mount drywall directly to the wall? The question is controversial. Experienced craftsmen it is recommended to mount a metal or wooden frame and only then fix gypsum sheets on it. However, with correct installation, you can install drywall on walls without a frame. Nevertheless, it is better to think it over several times and if only if the solution has no alternatives to get down to business, since fixing the gypsum board without a frame just for the sake of economy can result in high costs in the future. You can fix plasterboard in this way, for example, if you are carrying out repairs in small rooms, such as bathrooms, toilets, balconies, then the frame will steal precious space.

One of the exotic ways to fix gypsum plasterboard without a profile is to glue it onto polyurethane foam.

Conditions for fixing without profiles

In order to attach directly to the wall of gypsum board or gypsum plasterboard, a number of necessary conditions must be observed, without which this procedure is simply impossible.

The wall should be vertical and perfectly flat, that is, not have any even the slightest slopes. There are situations when the wall is not level enough and in such cases it is carried out, partial installation of the frame. The metal profiles in this installation option only serve as a leveling device for the wall.

The height of the room should not exceed the length of the plasterboard sheet. The problem here is that when installing drywall sheets, it is assumed that the joints of different pieces of drywall will be located along the transverse metal profiles. If you attach the sheets directly to the wall, then you should not have transverse joints at all, since there is nothing to attach them to.

If the wall has minor irregularities from two millimeters to two centimeters, that is, an option to level it with a starting putty, to which you must first add from ten to fifteen percent of gypsum. For fixing drywall, it is recommended to use ready-made adhesive mixtures. The mixture must be applied along the perimeter of the entire sheet, as well as in one continuous strip in its center.

If the irregularities are much greater, then instead of frame profiles, you can use plasterboard beacons. They are drywall, cut into squares or rectangles of ten to twenty centimeters and serve to level the wall with drywall sheets without a frame.

After the glue mixture has dried, the drywall sheets are again fastened with dowels in the corners and in the center. The dowels are fastened so that they go into the wall by at least forty millimeters.

After it was held final assembly sheets, you need to putty the connecting seams, as well as glue the mesh.

Related videos to help

Required tools

For finishing you will need some non-standard tools. It is better to prepare them in advance.

• Knife with replaceable blades for cutting drywall sheets;
• An electric jigsaw or saw for working with drywall;
• Strong thread. It will come in handy to create a plane level;
• Nails or screws;
• Building level;
• Simple pencil;
• Plumb line;
• Scraper to clean the edges of the drywall sheet;
• Drill, whisk and bucket to dilute and stir the solution;
• Putty knife. Better to take two spatulas - wide and narrow;
• Rubber hammer;
• Normal hammer;
• Pliers;
• Phillips screwdriver.

Let's also look at the materials that will be used during the work.

• Plasterboard sheets;
• Adhesive for working with drywall sheets. You can also use starter putty if you add ten percent of gypsum or PVA glue to it;
• Water;
• Primer;
• Dowels. The size of each dowel should be from eighty to one hundred and twenty millimeters;
• Serpyanka;
• Glue.

Preparation for installation

If you are going to finish with plasterboard a wall made of brick or concrete, then it must first be cleaned and sprayed with mortar. Then the surface needs to be primed. It is necessary to dilute the soil strictly in accordance with the instructions specified by the manufacturer. If it says on the packaging that the primer is ready to work, then nothing needs to be diluted. You can immediately start processing the wall.

If the wall is preserved old plaster, it is tedious to carefully examine it in order to identify weak points and treat them with a solution, and then a primer.

It is categorically impossible to fix gypsum plasterboards to the walls in rooms in which there is constant dampness. And also it is impossible to carry out this type of repair if condensation remains on the walls of the room. This will seriously damage the fastening of the sheets. In such rooms, it is necessary to use a special moisture-resistant drywall and attach it only to the frame.

Before fixing drywall, it is necessary to inspect for deviations from the vertical and in alignment using a level and a plumb line. If this is possible, then all convex places must be knocked down, and the hollows must be covered with a solution in order to perfectly level the surface before starting installation.

After priming, with a pencil or chalk, the markings are applied to the wall. If you do this before priming, then all the drawings will simply be washed off. Plasterboard sheets, from the side of attachment to the wall, must also be greased with a primer before attachment. Lighthouses need to be cut from drywall sheets and primed on both sides.

If necessary, the next stage of installation is the installation of electrical wiring. In cases where the wire must pass over the wall protrusions, it must be drowned in drywall. To do this, you will have to make special grooves in the sheet.

Fasteners on a flat and curved surface

If the surface of the wall is relatively flat, then you do not have to use beacons. Use a mixer to mix dry powder in water and make glue. If you do not have a mixer, you can make the glue by hand, but then the process will take much more time and effort.

If you decide to add PVA glue to the putty, then first you need to dilute the glue in the water, and only then fill in the dry powder. If you do the opposite, then the putty will harden very quickly and turn into stone. Naturally, after that, it will no longer be possible to use it for its intended purpose.

Apply glue to drywall sheets in one continuous strip along the entire perimeter on all edges. In the center of the sheet, you also need to apply several cakes from the solution in a checkerboard pattern. The distance between the cakes should be about forty centimeters. For the fastening to be reliable enough, you need to coat more than a tenth of the surface of the drywall sheet with glue.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Fasten the sheet to the wall strictly vertically. It must be attached and pressed against the wall. It is best if someone will help you with this, since it is problematic to do this process alone. Check how firmly the sheet is attached. If in doubt, press it harder on those places where the lag occurs. To accommodate this subsequent adjustment, sufficient mortar is applied to the sheet. If the solution is not enough, then theoretically the sheet can be peeled off, but it is better to avoid such situations, since in the process of peeling off the plasterboard sheet can simply break.

If the wall is tilted or turned, you will have to use beacons. Use a strong thread to form a net to indicate the desired verticality and plane. Next, the beacons are installed in the right places. They need to be installed so that they touch the thread frame. Then drywall sheets are attached in the same way as in the first option. After that, fix the problem areas with dowels, and seal the seams with putty and serpyanka.

If you are attaching drywall sheets to wooden wall or the ceiling, then everything is much simpler. To install such a cladding, it is enough to fasten the sheets to the wall with self-tapping screws or screws. If the wooden wall is not even, then this is corrected by applying additional wooden overlays, and all the bulges can be removed with an ordinary plane.

As you can see, there are different ways installation of drywall sheets, but the most reliable way installation of gypsum board - installation on a metal frame. Only in this way will the sheets be held firmly enough.

Successful perception of the repair and construction work carried out. Even the most sophisticated finishing materials will lose all their gloss against the background of hollows or bumps in the wall planes. Therefore, the alignment of walls during renovation can be considered a priority. For its implementation, drywall is the best suited.

GKL, as a finishing material, does not need special advertising. Moisture-resistant, ordinary, fire-resistant - for any room, you can choose drywall of the required quality. For bathrooms - moisture resistant, for the corridor - fire resistant, normal for living rooms.

Standard sizes 600х1250, 1200х2000, 1200х2500, 1200х3000 allow using this material practically without waste. After minimal processing, the surface of the sheets is ready for both wallpapering and applying textured plaster, and for laying tiles.

There are two ways of attaching the gypsum board to the walls - frame and frameless.

1. The first option is much more suitable for large rooms where there is no space limit. A frame made of profiles and plasterboard mounted on it take at least 40 mm of floor and ceiling from each wall (27 mm - profile + 12.5 mm - gypsum board).
2. The frameless method allows you to fix drywall sheets directly on vertical surfaces room or office. In addition to saving space, this method is more profitable from an economic point of view. The financial component of the frame is 60% of the cost of the walls mounted from gypsum plasterboard.

There are three options frameless mounting drywall sheets on the walls:

• Fastening sheets with self-tapping screws.
• Installation of plasterboard with dowels.
• Gluing drywall.

Preparatory work

Before proceeding with the leveling of the walls using drywall sheets, it is necessary to make general analysis proposed activities and choose the method of their implementation.

An overall assessment of the situation includes:

• Checking the verticality of the walls. It is made using a level or plumb line.
• Inspection of the plane of the walls. It is carried out with a long rule, or with a stretched cord. The presence of bumps and depressions is revealed.
• Checking the outside and inside corners. It is carried out in order to determine deviations from geometric correctness (often 90 degrees). A square is most often used as a tool.
• Evaluation of door and window openings. A check is carried out vertically and horizontally and the need to correct the openings with the help of gypsum board is determined.

Depending on the identified deviations and the condition of the walls, an alignment method is selected. Small errors can be easily eliminated by fixing drywall sheets directly on existing walls... Large differences and irregularities will require either a frame or installation of gypsum board on special glue.

Installation of drywall sheets with self-tapping screws

This installation option is possible only if there is a base into which self-tapping screws can be screwed. It could be a tree aerated concrete blocks or plaster partitions.

Preliminary preparation for installation works will consist in removing the protruding sections of the plane of the walls. Tubercles wooden base leveled with a hammer and chisel, it is also possible to use a hatchet. Foam concrete and gypsum partitions are easiest to process with a perforator with a chisel.

Plasterboard sheets are fastened in a checkerboard pattern. Self-tapping screws for wood serve as hardware for fastening. The length of the screws varies according to the wall material. For cladding a relatively flat wooden surface, self-tapping screws 3.9x25 and 3.9x35 mm are suitable.

Self-tapping screws 3.9x45 mm are used for mounting gypsum board on aerated concrete and gypsum partitions. When tightening the screws, it is necessary to monitor the depth of embedding of the hardware head. It is considered normal if the screw is immersed in the drywall by 1 - 2 mm. The fixing step is about 250 mm at the edge of the sheet and 250 - 350 mm at its center.

Particular attention should be paid to the places of attachment of the gypsum board in areas - depressions. Strongly tightened self-tapping screws simply deform the drywall. As a result, it will exactly repeat the relief of the irregularities of the walls.

In such cases, it makes sense not to hold out the hardware, leaving small space between the base and the sheets. This will not greatly affect the strength of the structure, but the number of layers of putty for leveling will noticeably reduce.

Fastening the gypsum board with dowels

If it is not possible to screw screws into the walls and partitions, then you can mount drywall on dowels. For unplastered brick, concrete and cinder block bases, hammer-in dowels 6x40 or 6x60 mm are used. When the walls are plastered, and the plaster layer reaches 20 mm, you will have to use hardware 6x80 and even 8x100 mm.

Preparation seats for the installation of dowels, it is carried out with a perforator with a drill of the appropriate diameter. The hole is drilled through a sheet of drywall installed in place. The plastic sleeve must have a "sweep" end.

It is advisable to tighten the metal core with a screwdriver or screwdriver. Sometimes it is impossible to tighten the self-tapping screw and you have to resort to using a hammer. In this case, it is advisable to put a homemade washer under the screw head - a gasket. Such washers can be made from a U-shaped bracket for gypsum board. To do this, the bracket is cut with metal scissors into several plates, and a self-tapping screw is threaded into the already existing holes.

As in the case of mounting sheets on self-tapping screws trouble spot depressions in the plane of walls and partitions can become. The recipe for elimination is to under-tighten the dowel core until it stops.

Installation of drywall on an adhesive mixture

Such an assembly is the most difficult and painstaking way of leveling walls with drywall without a frame. Installation is carried out in the following order:

1. Inspection of the surface to be leveled. Includes definition of protruding places of walls and walls. In these areas, the amount of adhesive applied will be minimal. Identification of areas with swollen plaster and putty. Such places will need to be cleaned.
2. Surface preparation for installation. Mechanical removal of old wallpaper, tiles, peeling plaster. Notching sections of walls covered with oil or pentaphthalic paints.
3. Priming of walls and partitions. It is better to use a deep penetration primer as a primer. For areas covered with paint, concrete contact can be applied.
4. Installation of lighthouse marks. The main task of such an event is to create points of the back side of the gypsum board. Lighthouse marks can be plastic clips of dowels with self-tapping screws screwed into them. The heads of the hardware must create a plane on which the drywall will be mounted.
5. Installation of drywall sheets. A special adhesive mass is applied both to the wall and to the gypsum board. The glue is not applied in a continuous layer, but in fragments. The distance between such fragments is 30 - 40 cm. The height is 15 - 20 mm larger than the gap between the base and the back of the drywall. The sheet is pressed against the wall, and the correctness of its installation is checked by the rule with the level.
How far should the hangers for the profile be attached to the wall

For leveling or redevelopment of living space, use partitions made of gypsum fiber board or drywall. GKL win against the background of brick and block partitions in that they are light, the equipment of such structures is quick and simple, and after the end of the work there is little dirt and dust. GKL and GVL are economical, good heat and sound insulation.

In addition to the standard gypsum board, the following types of material are distinguished:

• moisture resistant;
• fire resistant;

Moisture-resistant is used in places with high humidity, while fire-resistant is used for other premises (kitchen, office premises).

GKL is great for decorating living rooms, because it is environmentally friendly and, when heated, does not emit poisons. Regulates the room's microclimate naturally.

Moisture resistant drywall

For durable structures, GVL is used. These are gypsum fiber sheets that are stronger than drywall. GVL is made from plaster of paris with additives. GVL is an environmentally friendly material for dry construction, it does not have a cardboard sheath, like drywall. But there are such disadvantages of using GVL:

• GVL is heavier than GCR;
• costs more.

Characteristics of the timber frame

GKL fastening to a wooden frame is often used.

The wood frame is cheaper than metal, it is made from wooden planks and bars, usually coniferous wood is used. Bars with a section of 40 * 40 centimeters are used at the junction of two layers or where there will be massive objects on the wall (mirror or cabinet).

Material requirements:

• The moisture content of the wood is from 12 to 18%;
• Fire protection treatment must comply with the first group of fire safety;
• The wall thickness should not exceed 132 mm.

Before use, wood slats are processed protective equipment from fire and pests, visible for knots and irregularities.

Fixing the base

The screwing of drywall parts onto wooden slats should be carried out in residential and dry buildings. The frame is assembled in accordance with the vertical and horizontal level, otherwise the structure will come out skewed.

Structural tools:

• hammer;
• puncher;
• nails;
• building level;
• self-tapping screws;
• mounting dowels;
• metal corners.

If the design needs additional insulation, then this is done at build time.

Base attachment technology

Stages of work:

• The partition is pre-marked on the ceiling using a level, then a wooden frame is attached;
• Fasten the strapping bars starting from the ceiling. Then comes the floor, followed by the walls. It will be easier to work if all the coatings in the building are made of wood (liquid nails or self-tapping screws are suitable). If the house is made of brick and concrete, then the fastening is made with dowels and anchors to the ceiling;
• Having fastened the bars to the ceiling, markings are carried out on the floor (at least three marks) and continue to fasten the frame.
• After checking the correspondence of the fasteners with respect to the ceiling and floor, they begin to mount the base. To do this, it is enough to connect the floor and ceiling guides with vertical beams. The distance between them is kept at least 40-50 centimeters. It is very important to install these beams with high quality, since the main load will be on them.
• After installing the verticals, the racks are fixed to the corners with self-tapping screws on both sides for 3-4 holes.

Mounting the gypsum board on the base

Plating begins from solid sheets or the largest pieces. Fasten them with self-tapping screws to the bars every 25-30 centimeters.

Cladding

When sheathed with material only on one side, then lay the insulation and stretch the electrical wiring before installing the top layer.

During the installation of the other side, the insulation is laid as needed. It is better to do without pulling the cables, if they are still needed, they are placed in a special protective tube.

If the partition has a doorway, increase the number of uprights and horizontal lintels.

Newbie tips:

• When installing the second side of the wall, shift the sheet one step so that the structure comes out strong;
• To avoid problems with fastening, make sure that the joints of the gypsum board fall exactly in the middle of the vertical posts.

Isolation

Sometimes it is impossible to do without additionally isolating the structure, especially if it is not just a decorative part of the interior. There is nothing difficult in this, it is enough to lay and fix the material.

Insulation of the structure

Suitable for this mineral wool, expanded polystyrene or polystyrene. The rigid material is already attached to the inside of the lined partition.

Each material has both disadvantages and advantages, it all depends on what the room in which they are used is intended for.

Read the same: Arrangement of an apartment building.

Dealing with irregularities

If suddenly the base is uneven, you should identify unevenness with a bar. For this:

• Lay a timber along the wall and draw a line from the outer edge;
• Lean the upright timber vertically, mark at regular intervals the location of the end behind its exit on the floor.

It is important to evenly install the frame so that the whole structure comes out even.

If you have difficulties with plasterboard cladding, the video will help:

Benefits of using GCR

This material has a number of advantages over other raw materials:

• low cost and assembly costs;
• little weight;
• quick installation;
• the best sound and heat insulation;
• the ability to use even in freezing rooms;
• alignment of walls;
• installation of drywall does not require additional preparation of the base;
• after installation, there is little debris and dust.

If everything is done correctly, as the final touch it will remain to carry out decorative wall decoration. And plasterboard structures will last a long time and save a lot of time and money.

In contact with

It will only be a question of the longitudinal (vertical) scheme for the manufacture of cladding. The approximate manufacturing sequence for cladding on a wooden frame is as follows:

1. Mark the position of the lathing bars and cut them to size. When cutting the racks, subtract the thickness of the lower and upper horizontal bars from the wall length.

2. Install the racks and the upper and lower horizontal bars.

3. Install short bars over the door and window openings, slightly shifting the vertical short bars so as not to make cutouts in the drywall.

4. Finish (paste over the gypsum board) window and door openings inside. Nail drywall sheets onto the walls.

5. Nail sheets around window and door openings.

6. Close up the joints between the sheets and prepare the walls for finishing.

Walls made of brick and masonry are rarely perfectly flat, therefore, when manufacturing plasterboard cladding all irregularities should be taken into account. The great difficulty is the alignment of the battens vertically and horizontally. If you do not pay due attention to this procedure, even and smooth walls will not work.

Installation of the frame when uneven wall perform like this. First, the unevenness of the wall is revealed. The cut out lower horizontal beam of the future frame is placed on the floor against the wall and a line is drawn along its outer edge. Marking is carried out for racks with a step of 600 mm. Then press the rack bar vertically to the wall and at regular intervals mark the position of the end when it goes beyond the line on the floor. Connect the marks with a second line parallel to the first. Attach the support bar to the floor with the outside edge running along the outside line of the mark. Install the vertical bars on the support, aligning them outer surfaces inserting spacers if necessary. The evenness is checked with a plumb line, level and rule. The horizontal bar is fixed at the ceiling level. It is more convenient to first install the two extreme racks (vertical bars) and pull the cord between them. Then they install intermediate racks and check the evenness of the installation along the cord.If the floor is uneven, then something is also placed under the support bar in the right places (so that it is installed at the same level), and then all the other bars are exposed.

To level the racks, use scraps of plywood, fiberboard, wood of the required thickness. You can apply a little wood glue to the spacers before hammering into the blocks. Gaskets are also installed in cases where the ends of the bar lie tightly on the surface of the wall, and there is a gap in any of its middle part (concave wall).

In case of a large deflection, the distance between the dowels should be reduced to increase the rigidity of the bar.

If the room has a flat floor and if its area allows, it is possible to simplify the process of installing the frame. To do this, carefully measure the inner perimeter of the wall. Then a frame is assembled on the floor, the outer perimeter of which should be equal to the measured perimeter of the wall, minus 5 mm in length and 5 mm in height. Bearing beams are inserted into the resulting frame with a step of 600 mm, and they are fastened with nails driven through the frame into the ends, which is much more convenient. Since the assembled frame lies face on a flat floor - when assembled, it will already have flat surface... Therefore, the stage of alignment of each bar according to the level is thus excluded. It remains only to insert the assembled frame into the perimeter of the wall and, aligning their edges, fix it with dowels with screws or dowel-nails.

Marking for ordinary (universal, etc.) dowels is performed using electric drill... To do this, the bar is applied to the floor, or to the ceiling, or to the wall in the position in which it should be located after installation. Having asked the partner to securely hold the bar in its original position, drill through holes in it with a step of 800-1000 mm so that the drill at the exit makes marks on the wall. The drill diameter should be equal to or slightly smaller than the diameter of the screws used. After that, the wall is drilled for the installation of dowels. The holes of the dowels after their installation will exactly match the holes in the bar.

In the event that the fastening of the bars has to be performed without a partner, then they do this. Find the point of location of one dowel. A hole is drilled in the wall (floor, ceiling) under it, into which a dowel is installed. After that, the bar is fixed on one dowel and, holding it with one hand so that it does not move, drill through holes in the bar until a clear mark on the wall is obtained. After that, the block can be removed or simply rotated around the axis of the installed dowel (after unscrewing the screw a little) so that access to the marked places is opened. After that, holes are drilled and the remaining dowels are installed.

It is most convenient to fasten the frame to a brick or concrete wall with dowel-nails. The bar is applied to the wall in the appropriate position, through holes are drilled in it with a step of 800-1000 mm. Then change the drill and drill a hole in the wall. The diameter of the drill with a victorious tip is determined by the diameter of the dowel.

The frame is fastened to a wooden wall using long galvanized nails.

Plasterboard wall cladding can be started either from the corner or from a window or doorway. To fasten the cladding to a wooden frame, use wood screws 35 mm long with a fastening pitch of 250 mm or galvanized nails (preferably special serrated) 40 mm long (for sheets 12.5 mm thick) with a fastening pitch of 200 mm. GKL is attached around the perimeter and to the intermediate posts (see Fig. 47). The distance from the edges is the same - not less than 10 mm from the edge of the edge lined with cardboard and not less than 15 mm from the edge of the unlined edge. Work is carried out from the corner in two mutually perpendicular directions or from the middle to the edges. The nails are driven in until their heads are slightly below the paper surface. Neither the nail head nor the screw should tear the paper. There should be a space of 5-7 mm between the drywall sheets for finishing the seams. A gap of 10 mm must be left between the floor and the end edges of the plasterboard sheets. It is also necessary to leave a gap of 10 mm between the ceiling and the upper end edges of the drywall sheets. All joints between sheets and holes from nails or screws must be putty and cleaned.

If the length of the sheet is not enough to cover the entire room in height, the sheets when facing are placed with displacement of adjacent end joints (sprawling), and transverse beams are mounted at the joints.

Often, a specialized metal "P" -shaped profile is used for the construction of a drywall frame, although in some cases ordinary wooden bars or semi-beams are also used.

The drywall frame is fixed on straight hangers at some distance from the wall of a wooden house. This indentation is a mandatory measure rather than a mandatory one. This ensures a loose fit of the frame profiles to the wall so that they do not repeat its unevenness.

Marking the frame for drywall

Before starting work, you first need to correctly and accurately mark the future location of all frame profiles for drywall.

The markings are usually started from above, from the ceiling. First, two horizontal lines on the ceiling (it is possible on the floor, but on the ceiling it is more convenient, about which a little further), which will indicate the plane of the future wall and the plane of the future frame for drywall. The distance between them is nothing more than the thickness of the drywall sheet itself.

The indentation of the entire structure from the wall is calculated taking into account the curvature of the walls in a wooden house, the thickness of the selected gypsum plasterboard profile, and a small margin that allows you to lay internal communications, for example, an electrician.

This is where the markup ends, but don't neglect the simplicity of the process. The evenness of the future frame will depend on the accuracy of the lines drawn.

Guide profiles (NP) are screwed to the floor and ceiling using dowel nails. It is possible directly, but for the purpose of sound insulation, the distance between the profile and the floor plane can be glued with a rubberized tape. Although in wooden houses, this measure is already superfluous.

Then, rack-mount profiles (SP) are installed between the guide profiles and screwed with self-tapping screws. The intersections of the post and guide profiles can be additionally reinforced using crab attachments.

So that the middle of the entire structure does not bend towards the wall under pressure, the rack profiles are additionally supported and fixed on the wall with special brackets.

The distance between the rack profiles can vary. If you do not plan to install sound and heat insulating materials, then the distance between the profiles will depend on the width of the gypsum plasterboard you have chosen. As a rule, this distance is halved so that each plasterboard sheet is attached to the profile at the edges and in the middle.

If additional insulation of the walls of the house is planned, then in choosing the distance between the profiles, one should be guided by the width of the insulation, since it should fit snugly to the profiles on all sides, avoiding voids and, conversely, creases of the edges of the insulation mats.

After installing and fixing all the profiles, checking the strength and controlling all structures with a level, the question of how to make a frame for drywall in a wooden house can be considered closed and you can proceed to laying insulation, vapor barrier layers and stitching everything up with sheets of drywall.

The process of installing rack-mount profiles is quick and easy, so almost everyone can do it.

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This article provides instructions on how to attach drywall to wood bars and make mounting drywall to wood framing easy and quick.

Is it possible to mount drywall on a wooden frame

Cladding of walls and ceilings for indoor spaces is fast, inexpensive and fairly easy-to-use. modern method finishing of interiors of civil and public houses.

There are several options for plasterboard sheathing (GKL):

Direct installation, it can be done using gypsum mortar or special adhesive mastics, if the walls and ceilings have a flat prepared base Wood or metal frame for drywall should be used if working surface has distortions, strong waviness, tuberosity and other irregularities

As a frame structure, both profiles made of galvanized metal sheet and wooden elements- rail, timber, board. A possible frame for drywall made of wood may be preferable to a metal profile, since installing drywall with your own hands on a wooden frame is not particularly difficult and does not require special skills. Wood is easy to process - drilled, sawn.

Can drywall be mounted on a wooden frame? Yes, and besides, this allows you to save on finishing, refusing to purchase rather expensive metal profiles. However, it is not recommended to use a frame for drywall made of wood when the room has high humidity - in bathrooms, boilers, showers and bathrooms.

Do-it-yourself wooden frame for drywall

How to make a wooden plasterboard frame?

If a partition is sheathed, it is usually a three-layer structure made of edged boards with a thickness of 25-30 mm. The outer layers are formed from vertical boards, and the inner layer is horizontal. If the installation of the partition is done carefully and competently, without distortions, then such a partition actually forms a frame for drywall from boards, to which without any preparation you can attach panels from gypsum plasterboard using self-tapping screws.

The use of a board for the manufacture of frame structures in other cases is impractical, since this will lead to an overspending of material and an increase in the cost and labor intensity of the work. For facing concrete, brick, logs, as well as old skewed walls and ceilings, it is better to use a frame made of timber for plasterboard.

Many people are interested in whether drywall can be mounted on wooden slats? Since the difference between wood products (such as a bar and a rail) as applied to the installation of gypsum board is insignificant, the installation of drywall on wooden slats and the installation of drywall on the bars practically do not differ from each other.

Fastening drywall to the wall on a wooden frame

Is it possible to attach drywall to wooden blocks if they are simply attached to walls or ceilings? This option is possible, but it is better to make a frame for drywall from wooden blocks. In how to fix the timber to the drywall, a small instruction for installing drywall on a wooden frame from a timber will help.

For drywall, the most widespread are panels with the following dimensions: 1200 mm in width and 2500 mm in length. At the same time, the installation of panels on a frame structure made of wood of different types and characteristics (moisture resistant, reinforced, etc.) has the same scope of work.

Procurement of the necessary materials, fixtures and tools

To determine the required number of gypsum plasterboards, you should draw a sketch plan for the unfolding of the walls and ceiling with all door and window openings, slopes and technological niches (for example, for heating radiators). After calculating the working area, its value should be divided by the area that one gypsum board has. The resulting value will need to be increased by 20% (for trimming and unforeseen costs), which will be the number of panels required.

for fixing adjacent slabs - with dimensions 80 x 25 mm (first type) for intermediate vertical and horizontal mountings- with dimensions 40 x 25 mm (second type)

It is necessary to plot the vertical and horizontal axes on the plan, along which the frame elements will be installed on the wall, ensuring the fastening of drywall to wooden blocks. Its constructive scheme will be:

two vertical beams of the first type with a length of 2500 mm at the edges of the slab with a distance between them along the axis of 1200 mm two vertical beams of the second type with a length of 2500 mm, with a distance between themselves and the beams of the first type in the axes of 400 mm six horizontal beams of the second type, installed in the upper and lower parts of the slab three intermediate, which must be installed along the axes located at a distance of 1250 mm from the upper and lower edges of the slab; the length of the outer beams will be 400-80 / 2-40 / 2 = 340 mm, the length of the middle ones - 400 - 40/2 - 40/2 = 360 mm

Additionally, beams of the second type should be used to frame window and door openings and technological niches. If the height of the room exceeds 2500 mm, the upper horizontal bar is replaced by a bar with a section of 80 x 40 mm and is installed so that an additional 40 mm serves to fasten the top panel from a GKL sheet cut to the appropriate length, the length of the vertical bars of the first and second must also be increased type and the upper bar of the second type is installed.

After calculating the total length of the required number of beams and also increasing it by 20%, they can be purchased on the construction market or made in a wood processing workshop. It is especially necessary to pay attention to the absence of oblique and increased knotty in them.

Before using for at least one week, the entire set of wood planks must be cured in the room in which it will be used. After that, rejection should be carried out, and the remaining should be treated with special compounds - antiseptics that prevent rotting and damage by fungi and mold, fire retardants, which impart fire-retardant properties. Deep penetration impregnations are currently commercially available to protect the wood and prevent warping when the humidity in the room fluctuates within a fairly wide range.

When manufacturing and installing the frame, you must follow the drawn plan.

Required tools

Tools and inventory that will be required to complete the work:

hacksaw for woodworking knifebuilding corner steel rail-rule 1200-1500 mm long bubble level water level (when lining the ceiling) plumb hammer screwdriver electric ladder, stepladder, it is allowed to build and use self-made construction goat-scaffolds protective devices (gloves for hands, glasses, respirators)

General Provisions

Assembling the frame and installing it from separate prepared elements with your own hands directly on the ceiling or on the wall presents some difficulties - constant alignment and adjustment is required in the horizontal and vertical planes with the constant use of a plumb line, level, construction square and rail-rule.

If the length and width of the room allow, the enlarged assembly of large fragments of the frame can be done directly on the floor. In this case, it will be much easier to mount the frame, both on the wall and on the ceiling, and align and attach, respectively, in the vertical and horizontal planes.

Horizontal and vertical elements well connected to each other when using straight-bent sheet metal strip segments desired width(25 mm) or through small blocks. Both those and others are fixed in the necessary places with screws.

The installation of fragments of the frame on the walls and ceiling can be done using wood screws, if the walls and ceiling are wooden, using the so-called "plugs", when a hole is drilled in a brick or stone in the right place, at a predetermined point on the wall, into which it is installed a wooden chopik, into which, in turn, a nail is hammered through a frame element or a screw is screwed in, while instead of a chopik, you can use a plastic dowel with a metal self-tapping screw.

After installing and leveling the frame, with significant tuberosity and distortions between it and the wall (or ceiling), gaps may form, which should be filled with gypsum mortar (if the tree was previously protected with moisture-proof impregnation), use foam or wooden wedges and linings together with glue for wood, for example, PVA. Otherwise, a wooden frame for drywall on a wall (or ceiling) will have increased instability and may deform when installing gypsum plasterboard panels.

After installation and alignment on the wall or on the ceiling of the frame structure, you can start attaching the drywall to the wooden frame by directly mounting the gypsum board panels. The following instruction will help in how to fix the bars to drywall.

To mount a drywall sheet, it must be tightly pressed against the mounted frame structure made of wood, so that the long edges of the sheet lie exactly along the axes of the first type of timber with a section of 80 x 25 mm at a distance of 40 mm, and so that it is possible to fix to the remaining 40 mm adjacent sheet.

Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws with a length of 20 mm. Using a screwdriver, you need to start fixing the gypsum board sheet on the frame, starting with the middle intermediate horizontal element of the second type. In order not to be mistaken with twisting, on a sheet of drywall from the outside, it is better to draw lines with a pencil corresponding to the axes of the frame elements.

After that, you need to fix the sheet to the upper and lower horizontal wireframe elements... If the panel is to be mounted on a wall, look for its verticality and absence of distortions using a plumb line, and on the ceiling using a level.

Then the sheet can be fastened to the uprights. When tightening screws, it should be taken into account that the distance from them to the edge of the sheet should be at least 20 mm. The pitch between adjacent screws should be 100-120 mm.

Instructions on how drywall should be mounted on the ceiling is not much different from how to mount the gypsum board on the wall. On the horizontal surface of the ceiling, a horizontal crate is also arranged in the form of a frame, which should be attached to the ceiling structures and aligned horizontally using a water level. Enlarged frame elements for ease of installation are also better pre-mounted on the floor.

In order to mount a frame made of plasterboard timber on the ceiling and sheathe it with plasterboard, your hands may not be enough. An assistant may be required for installation. In exceptional cases, you can use props and braces that can help you install drywall on the bars alone, but this method should be used with caution, as unforeseen situations may arise associated with the fall and destruction of drywall sheets.

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When device plasterboard partitions, pine timber is often used as a frame material. Partitions on a wooden frame are used to divide the internal volume of a room, they are convenient when arranging interior crossings, shaft fences, ventilation wells, etc.

Installation of a wooden frame

They are widely used in residential and industrial buildings.

The requirements for the preliminary preparation of the frame wood are high-quality processing with antiseptic materials that prevent the possibility of fungal infection, give protection against woodworm insects, rotting, exposure to moisture. Fire protection is mandatory. The treatment level should provide the first group of fire resistance. The common disadvantages of a wooden frame include high consumption quite expensive material and the likelihood of warping during operation.

The timber prepared for use must have a permissible moisture content of 12 - 15%.

As a rule, the used section is 50X80 mm or 60X90 mm, with a length equal to the height of the room. Such dimensions provide the necessary rigidity of the frame. A preliminary calculation of the structure of the partition frame is carried out, taking into account future doors, aisles, niches, suspended equipment. Such a calculation necessarily takes into account the need for horizontal elements in the middle part of the frame and in all places of horizontal joints of sheets, as well as the obligatory displacement of such horizontal joints of adjacent sheets by 0.4 m.

After calculating the structure, frame, the sequence and number of sheets to be hemmed on both sides is determined. And in this case, the need to shift the vertical joints of pairs of panels on opposite sides by one span is taken into account, i.e.

by 0.6 m. The principle of displacement of joints is common for all types of frames made of wood or metal profiles. Its observance allows to increase the strength and rigidity of the partition, to prevent the appearance of cracks in its surfaces.

The installation of the frame begins with tracing the outline of the bulkhead. For this, a breaker cord, a plumb line, a building level, at least 2 m long, are used.

The layout of the future partition should include all openings. Support bars of the frame strapping are mounted around the perimeter. They are fastened with self-tapping screws on dowels, a hammer drill or an impact drill. It is very convenient to use straight hangers (brackets) from a set of metal-profile frames.

In the premises of wooden buildings, fastening is best done on beams and supporting floor joists. Installation of racks on a strapping beam can be done on a spike, simply with nails or self-tapping screws. Mounting on a thorn is preferable, because.

provides a reliable connection that provides overall structural rigidity. The use of plasterboard sheets of standard sizes, involves the installation of frame racks in increments of 0.6 m, with a sheet width of 1.2 m. With a room height of up to 3 m, standard length GKL of 3 m allows you to sew up the entire height of the partition without horizontal joints.

Installation of drywall on a wooden frame

And in this case, the principle of displacement of the joints of the panels is strictly observed. When placing an insulating material in the spaces between the upright bar, the joints between the mats should be processed to increase the density of their adhesion. It is recommended to use the material on foil or mesh to avoid caking of the insulation. After filing the first side of the partition on a wooden frame, all engineering communications are laid, the opposite side is sewn up.