Modern electrical wiring in the house is a complex cable layout that meets operational safety large quantity household appliances. Thirty years ago everything was much simpler. And even in those days, laying wires required knowledge and skill from the master. Although, if you take into account some rules and requirements modern standards, then do-it-yourself electrical wiring in the house (the diagrams may be different) is a real thing.

Electrical Wiring Rules

So, correctly carried out electrical installation work depends on fulfilling the requirements of one document - these are the “Rules for the Construction of Electrical Installations” or, in short, the PUE. Essentially, these are step-by-step instructions for use. In this document everything is laid out on the shelves. Which of these rules will help you correctly install electrical wiring in a private home with your own hands?

• All wiring elements must be accessible regardless of their installation location. These elements include sockets, switches, distribution boxes, meters.
• Sockets are installed at a height of 50-80 cm from the floor surface. Distance from hobs And heating radiators- half a meter. The number of outlets is determined by the area of ​​the room. One socket per 6 m². In the kitchen, the quantity is determined by the need for these devices. They are not installed in the toilet; waterproof samples are installed in the bathroom.
• Switches must be mounted at a height of 60-150 cm, and the width of the canvas will have to be taken into account front door. It should not cover the switch. Usually if the door opens to the left. Then the switch is installed with right side from the entrance.

Attention! Sockets and switches are connected to a cable that is laid only vertically. The best option is from bottom to top.

• Wires can only be laid horizontally or vertically. In this case, there are certain distances from adjacent surfaces, pipes or supporting structures. For horizontal contours - 5-10 cm from the floor beams, or 15 cm from base surface ceiling. Vertical contours from the floor within the range of 15 to 20 cm: from window and door openings no less than 10 cm, from gas pipes - 40 cm.
• Regardless of what kind of wiring will be laid (hidden or open), it is necessary to ensure that the cable is not pressed against metal parts of the structure.
• If several wires are laid along one circuit at once, then pressing them against each other is contraindicated. The minimum distance is 3 mm between them. It is better to lay each cable in a corrugation or box.
• Connect aluminum and copper wire forbidden.
• The grounding and grounding circuits are connected only with bolted fasteners.

As you can see, the rules are not very complicated, so doing the wiring correctly with your own hands will not be difficult.

Scheme

If you are not a specialist, it is better not to create a wiring diagram in the house with your own hands. This should be done by a specialist. You will have to pay for his services, but it's worth it. Although you can figure it out yourself, taking into account the rules described above, it will take time.

So, the rules are known, all that remains is to scatter the wires throughout the rooms and short them to lighting fixtures, sockets and switches. Therefore, transfer the plan of rooms and utility rooms onto paper. In them you indicate the locations of lighting points, sockets and switches. Cables are connected to them. It would seem that everything is very simple. But you will have to take into account the power consumption of lamps and household appliances. Therefore, today craftsmen use three types of room wiring:

• consistent;
• parallel;
• mixed.

The last option is the most optimal. Firstly, materials are saved during installation. Secondly, he has more high efficiency.

Practice shows that it is necessary to draw a separate circuit from the distribution board to each room. In addition, the lighting is carried out separately from the sockets. But keep in mind that, for example, in the kitchen there are a very large number of appliances that consume a lot of power. Therefore, it is worth bringing a cable from the distribution board to the room into a junction box that can withstand the total power consumption, and from there a separate wire for each socket. At the same time, you can save money, taking into account the purpose of the outlet. For example, run a cable with a larger cross-section for a dishwasher, and a smaller cross-section for a refrigerator.

Attention! Reducing connection points makes it possible to simplify the wiring diagram and achieve significant savings in materials.

Power calculation and selection of cable cross-section

Conducting wiring in a block or brick house (in an apartment) is a matter of skill and skill. But calculate it correctly required amount cable, and even more so its cross-section, is a rather complicated matter. What will it take?

The most important thing is to correctly calculate the power consumption of all devices in one room. Let's give an example at small kitchen. So, in the kitchen there is an electric kettle with a power of 2 kW, a microwave of 1 kW, a refrigerator of 0.4 kW, and several light bulbs with a total power of 0.4 kW. To calculate the current in a given circuit, you need to use Ohm's law:

I=P/U, where P is the total power (set in watts), U is the network voltage (220 V). In our case it turns out: I=3800/220=17.2 A.

To determine the wire cross-section based on the current strength, it is necessary to compare these indicators using special tables, of which there are a large number on the Internet. For example, this one below.

In our case we will need copper cable cross section 4.1 mm². Internal wiring to consumption points with power determination is done in exactly the same way. You just have to take into account one device that will consume current from this outlet.

Wiring diagram in a private house

The wiring diagram in a private house begins with input cable, designed for a power of 0.4 kV. Today, metering meters are taken out of the house and installed inside distribution boards on the street. A general automatic circuit breaker and an RCD are also installed here. A cable is laid from this shield to the second distribution cabinet, which is located inside the house. And it is from this that the internal wiring to the rooms is carried out.

As mentioned above, consumers need to be divided into groups, the main of which, if the house is small, are:

• lighting;
• sockets;
• power group is washing and Dishwasher, boiler, electric boiler.

For each group, a system of automatic circuit breakers and RCDs is installed in accordance with the power consumption. All other wiring and installation is carried out according to the rules described above.

Please note that in a private house There must be at least three cable conductors: phase, neutral and ground. This optimal scheme. Many house owners introduce two wires: phase and neutral, and ground the circuit precisely through the neutral circuit. It is best to introduce a separate grounding loop into the building.

As practice shows, lighting is the lowest-power circuit, so it is installed on it VVG cable 3x1.5. This is a three-core copper cable, the cross-section of which is 1.5 mm². For sockets it is best to use VVG 3x2.5.

And one more important point regarding wiring installation is whether it is hidden or open wiring. Private houses today are built from different materials. So if this wooden house, That best option– open installation. If brick house or block, then hidden.

The most difficult one is hidden option. The thing is that when renovating a building, you have to engage in chiselling of walls using a grinder. This process is dusty and labor-intensive, so try to lay the wires before starting finishing work.

Conclusion on the topic

Electrics are serious business. Anyone who decides to wire it with their own hands is at great risk. A small mistake can cost everything. Therefore, my final advice is to check each circuit for resistance, or better yet, entrust the installation of the electrical wiring to professionals.

Any work related to electricity requires a serious, competent approach, therefore wiring diagram in the apartment, must be well thought out and executed with high quality. It is with the electrics that repairs begin in new apartment or home. This is where you should start any major renovation housing. The main stages of repair are as follows. First, wires are laid along all the walls, then they become overgrown primer, painting mesh,plaster, putty and wallpaper. Under this thick layer,

The electrical wiring will remain in place for decades. That is why, before installing it, you need to think very carefully about the future wiring diagram in the apartment.

Where to start

As a rule, at the first stages of renovation, people usually have little idea of ​​the final result. And for proper electrical wiring, it would be very desirable to present it. Since the functionality and logic of the location of sockets, switches, lighting, and, in general, all wiring in general will depend on this. The electrical wiring diagram in a private house or apartment should always start the same way, with drawing up an electrical plan. And that's why. Let’s say you made a repair, but didn’t think much about the end result, as the electrician advised, so you did. All is ready. We put the furniture in its place, arranged the consumer electronics, and what did we get? Catastrophe! All sockets turned out to be in cold reserve, one was blocked by a closet, another by a sofa, a third by a chest of drawers and a fourth by a bedside table, even near the TV and favorite stereo system, as by the law of meanness, there were no sockets within a radius of 3-4 meters. And here the very fun and exciting game, called, scatter extension cords and pilots throughout the apartment. The question is, why did you make new electrical wiring so that you could then walk around and trip over extension cords? Of course no. And in an apartment, this is half the trouble, but an incorrectly executed electrical wiring diagram in a private house promises more global consequences. After all, if in apartments the wiring changes on average every 20-25 years, then in private residential buildings, much less often or never at all. And how many extension cords are needed, two or three? storey house, but there are still more of them Do I need to buy it, how much money will it cost? And how many nerves will be spent every time, like you again, you'll stumble about the pilot wire lying on the floor.

What to do? Sit down and think calmly, decide on the arrangement of furniture and household electronics. Be sure to note what new electrical appliances you plan to purchase in the coming years. For example: air conditioner, dishwasher, freezer, electric water heater, electric oven or hob and so on, and where, after these acquisitions, existing cabinets, sofas and bedside tables can be moved. Consult with your family, wife and children; in practice, their advice turns out to be very useful.

Drawing a diagram - power part

The installation of electrical wiring from the very beginning to the end is described in as much detail as possible, with all explanations and pictures, in a step-by-step guide

So, you've made your decision. Now, you need to put all your ideas and plans on paper. We draw a plan of your premises. How to do it? Let's take a standard one-room apartment as an illustrative example. To complete the scheme we need:

• notebook sheet
• ruler
• pen
• colored pencils or markers

The diagram shows the location of the walls and doorways. No specific dimensions required, just a general idea.
Here we have a diagram of the apartment. Simple and clear.

In order to make it clear what we're talking about, I will number and sign the rooms:

• Room 1 - hall
• room 2 - kitchen
• room 3 - bathroom
• room 4 - hallway

Now, we need to draw on our diagram the locations of the furniture and household appliances.

Room 1 - hall: 1 - wardrobe 2 - sofa, 3 - chair 4 - stereo system (home theater) 5 - TV (plasma TV) 6 - computer	Room 2 - kitchen: 13 - kitchen set(work zone) 14 - dishwasher 15 – refrigerator 16 - chairs 17 – table 18 - gas stove 19 - microwave oven
Room 3 - bathroom: 8 - wall cabinet 9 - toilet 10 - sink 11 - bathroom 12 - washing machine	Room 4 - hallway: 7 - cabinet

Items marked in red are consumers of electricity, which means we will need sockets in these places. Now, we simplify the scheme, remove the furniture, and in places where there will be consumer electronics, draw designation of sockets on the diagram. This is the diagram we should get.
Now, let's be clear symbols, which we have used and will continue to use in our schemes.

I will duplicate the signatures, from top to bottom:

• socket
• double socket
• single-key switch
• two-gang switch
• lamp, chandelier, light bulb
• junction box (distribution box)
• end of the wire for further connection of equipment
• power shield

Specific dimensions and locations of sockets will need to be indicated on the diagram as soon as you have finally decided on the placement of furniture and equipment.

Drawing a diagram - lighting part

In our example, all chandeliers and lamps will be located in the center of the room. Let's start drawing with room number 1 - the hall. Coordinates of the location of the lamps, length and width, if available exact dimensions premises, you can specify immediately. For our example, there are no specific sizes, so we will do everything necessary measurements, during the first stage of installation - marking. For example, I’ll show you how to find the center of a room. First, measure the width of the room and divide the resulting value in half. For example, if the width turns out to be 4 meters, we divide it in half, 4: 2 = 2, it turns out to be 2 meters.
Now, measure the length of the room and also divide it in half. For example, the length is 6 meters, divide in half, 6: 2 = 3, it turns out 3 meters. We know the coordinates of the middle. Using the given values, we mark the center of the room. I marked it with a cross.
Similarly, we mark out all the other rooms.
We divide the L-shaped room, number 4 (hallway), into two parts and also mark it out.
Now, we replace the crosses with the symbols of the lamps and get this picture.
To complete our diagram, we need to draw switches. To do this, we need to think again and decide, this time, interior doors. Namely, which side they will open to, left or right, and where, inward or outward. This is done so that some kind of switch does not turn out accidentally outside the door when the repairs are done fully ready. Usually, doors are opened at the smallest angle. Here, the usefulness of the space on the left and right is taken into account, but neither forget about the furniture, the door should not rest against it. So, we decided on the doors.

Now, we can draw the switches. As a rule, switches are located inside rooms. So that when you open the door and enter the room, you can immediately turn on the light, and turn it off when leaving. Control of the light in a particular room will be entirely in the hands of the person in it. We went to bed, turned off the light, but did not need to leave the room. Comfortable. The exception is damp and damp areas, such as the bathroom and toilet. Here, the switches are taken outside, since the constant entry of moisture into the switch will lead to its rapid failure.

We draw switches on the diagram using conditionaldesignations. Before you begin installing the electrical wiring, you will need to indicate on the diagram the specific dimensions of the switches, the height and distance from the edge of the door.

So, in the end we got two pictures:

1. socket layout diagram
2. diagram of lamps and switches

The first stage is completed. Based on its results, we have the first and main part of the electrical circuit.

Stage two, wiring diagram

To begin with, you need to calculate and think through the route of laying the wire in detail. To do this, you need to carefully examine the room in which installation is planned. know exactly which clean and Finishing work will be produced. What you should be interested in:
Hanging, stretch ceiling
Will the walls be plastered, if so, what will be the thickness of the layer?
For monolithic houses, you need to know which walls are load-bearing
The location of the floor slabs, how the channels run and how clean they are
Why is it important. I will explain with a specific example.
Let's say in our one-room apartment, which we took as an example in the first part, suspended ceilings are planned. From an electrical point of view, this is simply wonderful. The fact is that now, if electrical installation work is carried out independently, you can save a lot of effort and time, as well as a lot of money, on materials. Savings occur due to the fact that now it becomes possible to choose a combined method of installing hidden electrical wiring.
We install the wire along the ceiling in a non-flammable corrugated pipe, we make descents to sockets and switches in vertical grooves.
Look at how many benefits we get using this installation method:
If the electrical wiring is being replaced, hidden, without updating the plaster layer, there is no need to do the lion's share of the hard work of making horizontal grooves for laying the wire. This type preparatory work, takes almost 50% of the time spent on the entire electrical wiring installation cycle.
No wiring required in slab channels ceilings. This laying method is used to covertly lay a wire to the center of the room to power a chandelier or lamp. We save effort and time, the channels of floor slabs are not always clean, in some situations you have to tinker.
We significantly reduce the amount of wire required. When laying it along the walls, you have to go around extra distances, installing it along the ceiling, you can lay it along the shortest path.
This example shows how the ratio of time and money spent on the entire installation cycle can change. That is why this issue should be approached so scrupulously.
What you should pay attention to if the installation of electrical wiring will be carried out using the standard installation method, hidden along the walls.
It is highly advisable to try to avoid concrete floors located above windows and doors. The first reason is that ditching them is very problematic. Second, in the future, incidents may arise when installing curtains for curtains.
It is necessary to correctly determine how the channels run in the floor slabs, since wires for chandeliers and lamps will be laid in them.
Calculate the location of distribution boxes. With the correct quantity and location, you can significantly reduce the amount of wire required for installation.
If the house is monolithic concrete, you should calculate the location of sockets and switches so that they do not fall on bearing structures. Violating their integrity is strictly prohibited!
After we have taken into account all the points, we move on to sketching the wiring diagram. To do this, we use two schemes that we obtained in the first stage. We superimpose the diagrams on top of each other and get the overall picture.

Let's start with room number 1. Here, there will be standard ceilings for painting, therefore, the wires will be mounted on the walls, for the chandelier in the channel of the ceiling slab. In this room there will be two double sockets, one switch and a chandelier. We pull the wire, starting from the farthest corner, since it contains the first double sockets in the chain. We stop at the exit from the room, where the junction box will be located.

I would not recommend making sockets in a ribbon cable; this will significantly reduce the throughput capacity of the last socket. It will be more correct and reliable to make all connections in the junction box. Therefore, we run the wire directly, from each outlet, to the box. We sketch the route of the wire from the second double socket.

Now, we draw the route for laying the wire, from the chandelier to the junction box.

From switch to box.

All the wires are collected in one place, sketch out the location of the junction box.

Similarly, we sketch the routes for laying the wires of other rooms.
Electrical wiring in the kitchen. Here, it is possible to use the channel of the floor slab to shorten the route of the wire to one of the sockets. We pass the wires through the channel of the stove, thereby saving time and wire.

More recently, electrical wiring in a private house was carried out from aluminum cable cross section 2.5 mm². And this was more than enough to connect a refrigerator, iron or radio.

However, time does not stand any less, and every day the number of household appliances in the house only increases (air conditioners, electric ovens and ovens, boilers, boilers autonomous heating and so on). In this regard, the load on the electrical wiring increases significantly, which can lead to its failure, followed by a short circuit or even a fire.

For this reason, when new construction or implementation repair work, first of all it is necessary to perform new installation electrical wiring in a private house. To do this, you can either order the services of professionals, or do all the work yourself.

In the second case, it will be extremely useful to read this article, since it will describe in detail each of the stages of electrical installation and present all the basic requirements, recommendations and restrictions when performing of this type works

The main stages of installing electrical wiring in a private or country house

According to many years of experience in performing electrical installation work, all work can be divided into the following stages:

1. Drawing up a power supply diagram (number and location of sockets, switches, lamps, etc.).
2. Determining the installation location of the distribution panel.
3. Marking ceilings, walls and floors for laying cables and wiring products and installing socket boxes and distribution boxes.
4. Chasing walls for hidden electrical wiring.
5. Grooving walls for installing a distribution panel (when installing an internal panel).
6. Drilling holes for installing socket boxes and distribution boxes.
7. Installation of routes for fastening the corrugation (if the laying of cable and wire products will be carried out in the corrugation).
8. Laying of cable and wire products.
9. Installation of socket boxes and rough sealing of grooves.
10. Disconnection of distribution boxes.
11. Installation of the ground loop.
12. Checking the grounding resistance of the mounted circuit.
13. Assembly and installation of the shield.
14. Checking the functionality of all sockets and switches.
15. Installation and connection of sockets, switches and lighting fixtures.

Let us consider in more detail the main stages so that the installation of electrical wiring in the house is carried out with high quality and will last at least 20–25 years (this is exactly the minimum service life of copper wiring).

Drawing up a power supply diagram (project for the placement of sockets and switches)

During construction or major repairs, the first stage is the development of design and estimate documentation. This should be done by specialized organizations with a license. This option will not be considered in this article, since the purpose of this article is to present detailed description Do-it-yourself electrical installation.

In our case, the project (electrical supply diagram) involves determining the installation locations of sockets, switches, household appliances, lighting devices, lighting panels and the method of laying wires (hidden or open). Let's consider what basic recommendations exist when developing a power supply plan.

Basic recommendations when drawing up a power supply diagram for a private home

1. All cable and wire products, regardless of installation option, must be made strictly vertically or horizontally.
2. Rotations of cables must be made strictly at an angle of 90°.
3. Minimum distance from cables to portals, windows and doorways should not be less than 10–15 cm.
4. The optimal distance from the finished floor level to the switches should be 90 cm (in accordance with European standards).
5. The optimal height for the location of socket groups is 30 cm from the level of the finished floor (with the exception of sockets on work surface in the kitchen, in the bathroom for connecting a hair dryer, razor, boiler, and so on).
6. It is recommended to place sockets on both sides of the bed or sofa.
7. In places where TVs are installed, the number of sockets must be at least 4 pcs (2 pcs for the Internet and television cable and 2 for connecting a TV and tuner).
8. For large corridors and rooms, it is recommended to use pass-through switches.
9. All powerful consumers (air conditioners, electric stoves and ovens, boilers, heating boilers, etc.) must be connected exclusively from a distribution panel with separately installed protection.
10. The optimal installation height for the distribution panel is 1.5–1.7 m from the finished floor level.
11. It is prohibited to lay cables and wires closer than 20 cm to the gas pipe.
12. All metal elements and sockets must be grounded.

What is the usual wiring diagram in a private home?

Of course, houses can be very different from each other, but the essence of high-quality installation is approximately the same for everyone, and it is as follows:

1. An electric meter is installed on the facade of the building, to which there is a descent from overhead line via wire (the electricity supply organization is responsible for this part and for the meter).
2. A voltage stabilizer(s) and a power distribution panel or automation are installed in a garage or some other room, which controls and transmits electricity through an input copper cable with a cross-section of 10–35 mm².
3. On the street near the premises where it is located switchboard A generator is installed, which supplies the house in the absence of a centralized power supply.
4. On each floor inside the house there is a separate distribution panel, to which the input cable is connected in parallel.
5. The distribution panel contains separate RCDs for the sockets of each room, circuit breakers separately for each room and separate RCDs for air conditioners, boilers, heating boilers and underfloor heating systems.
6. All powerful consumers are powered strictly from the distribution panel, which provides for the installation of individual protection elements (RCD).
7. A separate distribution box must be installed in each room, in which the input cables and cabling and wiring products of the socket group and lighting circuits will then be switched.

Important! When drawing up a power supply plan, it is necessary to take into account the type of supply network. If you have a 3-phase network, then the input cable to the house should have 5 mils; in the case of single-phase power supply, the number of cores of the supply cable should be 3.

Once you have decided on the power supply circuit and installation locations for electrical accessories, you can begin marking out the room.

In order to mark the room you will need:

Initially, using a laser level (water level) and a tape measure, we mark the installation locations of sockets and switches. Further using building level or a laser level and a pencil (beats) are marked using strictly horizontal lines descents from the ceiling to sockets and switches for subsequent gating.

Using a laser level, we mark on the ceiling the places where cable and conductor products will be laid for the subsequent installation of fasteners for corrugations and cable laying.

We mark the installation location of the distribution box, which should be selected in such a way that the costs of cable and wire products are minimal.

Important! When marking the ceiling, keep in mind that all cables from sockets and switches and input cables to socket groups and lighting circuits will be brought into the distribution box, therefore, when installing corrugated fasteners, it is necessary to calculate how many cables will go where.

After completing the markings, when performing hidden electrical installations, you can begin to groove the walls. To do this, you will need either an angle grinder (grinder) or a wall chaser with a vacuum cleaner (for dust-free chase):

Initially, it is necessary to determine the depth of the groove. Let's say you are installing a cable in a corrugated cable with a diameter of 16 mm. In this case, the depth and width of the groove must be at least 20 mm. The grooves are cut according to pre-made markings.

Important! It is prohibited to make grooves at an angle or to groove supporting structures (crossbars, load-bearing walls, floor slabs and so on).

Also, at the stage of wall slitting, it is necessary to make a hole for installing an internal distribution panel. Its dimensions depend on the number of modules. In most cases, a distribution panel with 24–36 modules should be installed on each floor (depending on the number of rooms and the number of household appliances).

Drilling holes for electrical outlets and distribution boxes

For this we need:

To drill holes, turn on the “drilling + drilling” mode, insert the required crown and drill the required number of holes in the pre-marked places.

Important! When installing several sockets nearby, you need to buy junction boxes, attach them to the installation site and only then drill holes. Because otherwise you will not be able to install sockets with covers that are installed under one strip.

Installation of cable and wire products

In most cases, when high-quality installation All cable and wire products are laid in corrugation. This gives additional protection cable, simplifies installation and makes subsequent replacement possible if the cable fails without opening the walls and disrupting the repairs performed. It is also worth noting that do-it-yourself electrical wiring in a house is done in 90% of cases in a hidden way (in grooves) and very rarely in cable ducts in an open way.

What type of cable and wire products to choose

Here, of course, you need to perform a lot of calculations, but based on many years of experience, I would like to note:

1. To power the lighting circuits, a 3x1.5 mm² cable (PVSng, VVGng ShVVPng) is required.
2. To power the socket group of each room, a 3x2.5 mm² cable.
3. For food household air conditioners cable 3x2.5 mm², if its power is more than 5 kW then the cable cross-section must be increased to 4 mm².
4. For powering an electric stove and oven The cable cross-section must be at least 4 mm².
5. To power heating boilers (electric), depending on the type of power supply (single-phase or three-phase), the cable must be from 4 mm2 to 35 mm2 (depending on power). In most cases, the manufacturer writes the recommended cross-section and number of cable cores.

Important! When laying cable and wire products, each socket group must be connected from a separate RCD (precisely an RCD in accordance with the requirements of SNiP). Also from individual machines the following must be connected:

• electric floor heating systems;
• boilers;
• washing machines;
• electric stationary heaters;
• heating boilers;
• air conditioners;
• dishwashers.

What should the input cable be like?

The input cable from the meter to the house must be calculated according to the rating of the input machine (installed after the meter). But in most cases, an input cable with a cross-section of 10–16 mm2 is sufficient for a 3-phase network and 16–70 mm2 for a 1-phase supply network.

Installation and wiring of the distribution box

After installing the cable and wire products, you can install distribution boxes in pre-cut holes. To securely fix them, it is necessary to use alabaster, which sets very quickly, after which you can disconnect it.

Disconnection is performed in 3 ways:

Important! Wiring in the junction box is best done using color coding cables (blue to blue, brown to brown, yellow-green to yellow-green). This will prevent the phase from being confused with earth or grounding. In this case, the brown (white) wire is the phase, the blue (black) is the neutral, and the yellow-green is the ground.

Installation and assembly of the distribution panel

After laying cables and wires, installing and connecting distribution boxes, you can begin installing the electrical distribution panel.

How many modules should the shield be installed on?

Electrical wiring in a private house involves installing a panel on each floor in private houses, cottages or dachas. However, in order to find out how many modules are needed, you first need to calculate how many consumers there will be. Let's do the calculation for standard version that, using his example, they were able to install electrical wiring in the house with their own hands.

Let's say on your floor:

1. 3 rooms.
2. Kitchen;
3. Corridor;
4. Boiler;
5. Washing machine;
6. Warm floor system in 3 rooms and kitchen;
7. Electric stove;
8. 4 air conditioners.

Based on this, you need to install in the distribution board:

1. 5 single-pole circuit breakers 10 A (lighting 3 rooms, kitchen and corridor);
2. 14 pieces of RCD for 16 A (3 pieces of sockets in rooms, 1 piece of kitchen sockets, 1 piece of corridor sockets, 1 piece of boiler socket, 1 piece of socket washing machine, 3 pcs underfloor heating system, 4 pcs air conditioners);
3. 1 RCD 25–32 A for connecting an electric stove.

From the above calculations, we will have 35 occupied modules (30 modules occupy 15 RCDs and 5 circuit breaker modules). That is, we will need a distribution board with 36 modules. However, if you also want to connect a voltage limiter or the number of consumers will be larger, then the shield must be mounted on 48 modules.

After installing the distribution board, you can install RCDs and circuit breakers. They are easily mounted on a special DIN rail, which comes as standard with the switchboard.

Important! When disconnecting the distribution board, the phase (brown) wires must go through automatic machines or RCDs, the neutral (blue) wires must be collected on the zero bus, and the yellow-green wires must also be connected on the 2nd zero bus).

Conclusion

Whether the electrical wiring in country house, or in a cottage, if installed correctly, will allow you to operate household appliances without incident, without worrying about the possibility of a short circuit or fire.

It is also worth noting that when the electrical wiring in a country house is completely installed and connected to the ground loop, it is necessary to test with a megger and a device to check the resistance of the ground loop.

This article “Do-it-yourself electrical wiring (electrical installation) in a private house: step by step description» will allow you to do the electrical installation yourself, but it is always better to entrust this task to professionals.

Video on the topic

Modern human life cannot be comfortable at all without electricity. When it is absent, it seems that life has stopped, because any household appliance or electrical tool requires connection to the electrical network. Sometimes without electricity you won’t even be able to cook food, let alone provide adequate lighting to your home. Therefore, if you are planning construction, then the electrical wiring diagram in a private house should be a priority issue that should be given special attention. It is necessary to think through and calculate everything down to the smallest detail, so that no slightest mistake or inaccuracy in the installation and connection of the electrical network will lead to further breakdown of household appliances, or, even worse, to fire.

What is the need for a diagram?

The electrical wiring diagram in a private house is a drawing on which all the main power supply components are plotted:

• The input line, which is carried out by branching from the main power line to the house itself.
• Installation location of the distribution panel.
• Protective devices and electrical energy meter.
• Places for installing distribution boxes, switches and sockets in rooms and premises.
• Electrical wiring routes from junction boxes to switching devices.
• Places for installing elements of the lighting network (chandeliers, sconces, lamps).

By the time you do electrical wiring in the house, it is advisable to clearly decide where the main household appliances will be located - refrigerator, air conditioner, washing machine, water heater, dishwasher. This is necessary in order to immediately install sockets next to the equipment, and not then stretch the carriers across the entire room.

If your building is a typical one that was erected construction company(this is how entire cottage communities are now being built), then you should be provided with a building design and a wiring diagram. In the case when the construction is carried out independently, each house develops its own personal scheme. But in both options, the main purposes of the circuit are the same:

1. If you have a ready-made schematic drawing, you can make a list of materials that will be needed to install electrical wiring in the house. This will help save money. That is, having a list in hand, you can go through different retail outlets, calmly decide, choose the best quality and most affordable electrical goods. You won’t buy anything unnecessary and at the same time save yourself from the situation when installation is already being done, but some materials are missing, and you urgently run to the first store you come across to buy them at any price.
2. The wiring diagram will make it possible to determine the maximum load of each electrical unit, which will allow you to select the correct cross-section of wires and calculate total power, select the required protective devices and input cable.
3. The diagram will also help you competently and rationally plan the order of work.

Paperwork

Be prepared for the fact that electrical wiring in a private house will also require your nerves, because to obtain permission to carry out work you will need:

1. Contact the organization that owns the power line from which you plan to connect the input. They must issue technical specifications (TU) for this connection.
2. The next one will be an organization or commercial firm, which, according to the issued technical specifications will draw up a project.
3. Again, the energy supply organization will need to agree on the project and write an application for connection (on the main line this should be done by their electricians).
4. The completed input line must be tested by a special electrical laboratory, after which a protocol is issued stating that the input has passed the test and is suitable for use.
5. Now the input cable is inserted into the distribution board and connected to the input of the electricity meter, which must be sealed by energy sales representatives. After the meter, you do the electrical wiring in the house yourself, or you can invite specialists; you will no longer need any other organizations.
6. The last thing left for you is to conclude an agreement with the energy supply organization for the supply of electricity on their part, and on timely payment of the consumed kilowatt-hours on yours.

Input planning

The most important difference between electrics in an apartment and a private house is the input process. In multi-storey buildings, the input comes to the switchboard, and from there the wiring goes to the apartments. And for a private house, it is necessary to make a branch line from a nearby main line. The reliability, quality and safety of the power supply depends on how competently and correctly you do this. There are two ways:

• Installation of air inlet with cable or insulated wire.
• Laying underground cable entry.

Before you draw an introductory line for a private home, it is very important to think through and plan it so that it is resistant to strong winds and does not pose a risk of injury to people electric shock in rainy, snowy or damp weather.

Air input

This overhead entry involves pulling a wire or cable from the nearest support of the main power line to the building.

I would like to warn you right away that the air input will be rational if the distance from the support to the house is less than 20 m. In the case when the span is more than 20 m, you will need to install another additional support, which may be on your site. This measure is necessary in order to reduce the mechanical load on the wire. When the span turns out to be very large, there is a possibility that the wire may break under the influence strong wind or under its own weight.

How to make an air entry correctly?

1. It is necessary to drill a hole in the wall of the house construction and insert a piece into it metal pipe or a special plastic corrugation (the diameter of the hole and pipe will depend on the cross-section of the input wire).
2. A bracket with an insulator installed on it is fixed to the wall outside the house.
3. Now you need to tighten steel rope between two insulators (one on the bracket, the second on the traverse of the support from which the branch is made).
4. The input wire or cable on the support is connected to the line wires. Then it is laid along the cable to the house, where it is pulled through the hole made into the building. Every 0.5-0.6 m, it is advisable to secure the wire to the tensioned steel cable with plastic or metal clamps.

That's all, the input cable has entered the building, where it will be inserted into the distribution panel. As you can see, there is nothing complicated, but some nuances should be taken into account here:

• It is very important to ensure sufficient tension in the steel cable.
• The wire should be attached to the cable freely, without tension.
• The distance from the ground to the wire should not be less than 3.5 m.
• The cable and the input wire attached to it along its entire length should not touch any ancillary buildings, trees or tall bushes.
• The place where the wire enters directly into the house must be sealed. After it is pulled into the pipe, all remaining space must be filled polyurethane foam. You can also use another option - compact it tightly mineral wool from non-flammable material.

The best option for air entry into the house is a SIP type wire (self-supporting insulated wire). Firstly, its insulation is made from materials that are suitable for use in conditions of sunlight and precipitation, and also withstand significant temperature fluctuations. Secondly, under the insulating layer, in addition to the aluminum conductors, there is a steel cable. That is, when installing such a wire, there is no need to stretch a separate support cable.

If single-phase voltage (220 V) is required for private housing construction, then a two-core wire will be needed. In the case when three-phase voltage (380 V) is needed, a four-core wire will be required. The minimum cross-section of SIP wires is 16 mm 2.

You can see how to install the air supply for electricity in this video:

Underground input

Laying the input cable in the ground has a number of advantages compared to the overhead method:

1. Reliability increases due to the fact that the cable is not exposed to sudden temperature changes, precipitation, or strong winds.
2. The style and architectural design of the site has a complete look, that is, they are not spoiled by a stretched cable with a fixed wire or additional support. As a rule, it is for this reason that all fashionable cottages and country houses have underground input.
3. If it's a country house Vacation home, in which they live only in summer period, and in winter the building is empty, there is a possibility that hooligans or vandals will cut out and steal the air inlet. At underground installation such a situation is unlikely.
4. When short circuit and the occurrence of an electric arc during underground input, there is practically no chance that property and people could be harmed. And with air entry, the fire that occurs can spread to buildings. So high Fire safety when laying cables in the ground - this is a very important advantage, especially for houses made of wood.

But not everything is so ideal; the soil is also quite an aggressive environment. Chemical composition soil over time can cause corrosive processes, which will render the cable sheath unusable. At the same time, the soil itself can subside and swell, shift and freeze. Will also have an impact groundwater, rodents and microorganisms, as well as pressure from roots big trees. Therefore, if you decide to supply electricity to the house underground method, take care to protect the cable, lay it in a plastic or metal pipe.

Well, the main disadvantage of underground input is excavation work. Firstly, they need to be coordinated with a bunch of various organizations that may have something laid in this land - water, gas or sewer pipes; heating mains; main cable lines power transmission; telephone communication lines. Secondly, to lay a cable in the ground you will need to dig a trench, and this is an additional (and decent) cost. If you do it yourself, you will spend a lot of time and effort. If you hire someone to perform earthworks, spend money in terms of money.

In order to better understand the scope of work, we recommend watching the following video:

So before you do electrical wiring in the house, first weigh the pros and cons, consider the advantages and disadvantages, choose for yourself suitable option completing the input. And when you are done with the external power supply, you can safely begin installing the internal one.

Load calculation

Installing electrical wiring in a private house with your own hands requires preliminary work head, that is, mental, namely, you need to calculate what kind of load your home electrical network will have. To make it easier for you, divide all electricity consumers into groups:

• Lighting elements.
• Kitchen appliances (refrigerator, range hood, bread maker, electric stove and oven, electric kettle and coffee maker, multicooker and microwave oven, etc.).
• Low-power household appliances and electrical appliances (computer, TV, stereo system, etc.).
• Air conditioners.
• Electric heating.
• Bathroom appliances (water heater, hair dryer and washing machine).
• Power tools that are used in utility rooms(perforator, electric drill, electric lawn mower, pump, etc.).

Sum up the power of all devices. Correct the resulting figure by multiplying by 0.7 (this is the generally accepted coefficient for simultaneous switching on of devices). Please note that the power of each group should not exceed 4.5 kW. Based on the calculated load, decide on the cross-section and brand of wires. Electrical wiring in a private house is carried out using copper wires. For hidden gasket choose brands VVGng, PUNP, VVG, for open installation - PUGVP, PUGNP. Wiring made in a private home with such wires will have a decent service life (about 10 years), minimal losses and safe operation.

Distribution panel

The place where the shield can be installed is not regulated in any way. The only condition is that it must be located no closer than 1 m from the pipelines (this means any pipes - gas, water, sewer).

In which room it is better to mount the shield is also not specified anywhere. Many people prefer to install it in some utility rooms, where it will be convenient to perform switching, or they place it at the entrance to the house. In any case, try to adhere to simple rules:

1. This room should not be a fire hazard (such as a boiler room). It is prohibited to store gas cylinders and flammable substances near the distribution panel.
2. It is necessary that the room where the shield is located is dry, that is, it is not advisable to install it next to the bathroom.
3. There must be free access to the panel; do not arrange a warehouse from the room where it is located.

The following are mounted in the shield itself:

• electricity meter;
• input machine, it is responsible for the power supply to the entire house;
• several machines for connecting outgoing pantographs according to their breakdown into groups;
• a residual current device (RCD), which operates in tandem with an input circuit breaker.

The shield can be installed in a niche specially made for it or simply hung on a wall surface.

If the house is huge on several floors with baths, saunas, garages, then one panel will not be enough. In such cases, one input panel and additional ones are installed on each floor.

Internal power supply layout

There are two ways to conduct electrical wiring in a private house - open and hidden. Let's briefly consider each of them separately.

Open wiring

The open method of laying wires is also called external, and is most often used in wooden houses.

Wires can be routed:

• in special plastic boxes;
• on porcelain insulators using a special cable (the so-called retro style).

The diagram should show which route you are going to route the cables along and mark the places where the fixing elements (insulators) will be installed.

For open wiring special external switching devices (sockets, switches) are used.

Hidden wiring

If the structure is concrete, with many technological voids, use hidden way laying wires. It is more complicated, since you first need to make special grooves in the walls, called grooves, into which the wire or cable will be laid. And after this, the laid conductors will need to be fixed using alabaster or gypsum mortar.

You will also need indoor switches and sockets. Before installing them, holes are made in the walls, the socket boxes are also fixed in them using a solution, and only then the switching devices are installed.

Hidden wiring with your own hands is not difficult to do; the only thing that can cause difficulties and take a lot of time and effort is making grooves and holes.

Everything related to electrical installation work is regulated by a set of Electrical Installation Rules (PUE). For those who are seriously involved in electrical wiring installation, it is useful to familiarize yourself with this book at your leisure. Here we present the most basic and important points, which should definitely be taken into account before doing the wiring in the house with your own hands:

1. All distribution boxes, sockets and switches must be within easy reach (not covered with wallpaper, not hidden under plasterboard sheets, not filled with bulky furniture that cannot be moved).
2. The grounding conductor must be attached to household appliances using a bolted connection.
3. The switches are mounted at a height of 60-150 cm from the floor level, the wires are connected to them from top to bottom.
4. All wiring connections must be made in accordance with distribution boxes. The connecting nodes must be reliably insulated; it is forbidden to connect copper conductors with aluminum ones.
5. Sockets are mounted at a height of 50-80 cm from the floor level. Distance between sockets and gas stoves, pipes, heating radiators should not be less than 50 cm.
6. Wires electrical wiring should not touch metal building structures buildings (this is especially true for hidden wiring; be sure to take this point into account when laying wires in grooves).
7. The number of sockets per room is taken into account at the rate of 1 switching device per 6 m2 of area. The exception is the kitchen, where you can install as many sockets as needed to connect all household appliances.
8. Horizontal laying of wires is carried out no closer than 15 cm to the ceiling and floor. The wires are placed vertically at a distance of 10 cm from door and window openings. Do not bring wires near gas pipes electrical network closer than 40 cm.

We hope that all this conversation we had was not in vain. You will definitely start installing the external and internal power supply of your home by drawing up a diagram. Think with the whole family about where and what equipment you want to place, put everything on paper, draw all the switching devices and wire routes. This will make it much easier for you to calculate the amount of materials needed. Then all that remains is to transfer your diagram from paper to real walls and start installation work.

The modern apartment is equipped with a large variety of household appliances. microwaves, electric water heaters, refrigerators, fireplaces, air conditioners, electric stoves - all these devices create a serious load on the electrical network.

And if the house in which your apartment is located was built several decades ago, when the set of home appliances was limited to a TV, refrigerator and sometimes a vacuum cleaner, the existing wires may simply not withstand such a load. To avoid problems associated with this, it is necessary to promptly replace the electrical wiring in the apartment.

All related activities can be completed on our own. You just need to study the features in detail existing schemes email wiring in the apartment, understand the order of work and do everything in compliance with safety requirements.

There are several layouts for wiring in an apartment. Each of them is created to perform a number of tasks.

Structural

This electrical wiring diagram in the apartment is created first. This drawing schematically shows the relationship between the panel, the entrance to the apartment and the electrical appliances planned for installation.

All electrical connections must be shown as completely as possible. To display connections on structural diagram Arrows are usually used.

Each element of the circuit indicates its rating: , power, and current. All these points must be indicated for successful preparation functional diagram laying electrical wiring in the apartment.

Functional

This drawing shows the electrical wiring components and illustrates the electrical connections between them. Special designations are used for this.

You can see the mentioned designations in the image. Shown here is an example of a functional diagram for connecting wiring in an apartment with two and grounding.

Fundamental

Is the most complete and detailed diagram. The drawing indicates all elements of the electrical system (lights, switches, etc.), as well as household devices (warm floors, stoves, air conditioners, etc.).

The diagram shows as accurately as possible the wiring lines, installation locations of junction boxes, connection busbars and other elements.

Calculated

One of important schemes connecting electrical wiring in the apartment. Created for electrical panels. The diagram shows input circuit breakers that protect individual wiring groups. When compiling, special symbols are used. The drawing also shows all the wires and groups of electricity consumers.

Each element of the circuit is accompanied by the necessary nominal characteristics.
For example, for electrical cables the number, cross-section and brand of cores are indicated, and for automatic machines the operating current value is given.

After compilation they are purchased necessary materials for laying or replacing electrical wiring. Also, the design diagram allows you to divide apartment electrical wiring into groups.

Assembly

On wiring diagram are displayed electrical connections in a serviced apartment. The drawing plan is in the form of a detailed table indicating the following points:

• exit points and direction of laying each cable;
• cable connection terminals;
• characteristics of wires.

Apartment wiring diagrams are drawn up quite rarely, because... Almost any qualified electrician can do this based on the design diagram. Otherwise, they usually rely on the situation.

Stages of installation and replacement of electrical wires

If desired, you can cope with replacing the electrical wiring in the apartment on your own. However, it is important to remember that this is potentially dangerous work because... If handled incorrectly or carelessly, electricity can cause irreparable damage.

Otherwise, follow the given guide and everything will definitely work out.

Drawing up a power supply plan

First of all you must make detailed plan your apartment and indicate on it the installation locations of electrical outlets and lighting fixtures.

For greater convenience, divide all consumers into the following main groups:

• electrical outlets;
• lighting;
• bathroom;
• electric stove (kitchen).

Each such group has its own cable from the distribution board. With such a scheme for installing electrical wiring in an apartment, a breakdown of one of the groups will not affect the performance of other consumers.

It is necessary to make the optimal one in terms of current. The thicker the cores used, the more money you will spend on installing electrical wiring. You shouldn’t save too much on this, but be sure to remember the following important nuance: in the case of laying one thick cable, the branches will need to be made in. At the same time, arranging too many connections inevitably leads to a decrease in the reliability of electrical wiring.

Do not connect all electrical wiring to one group. It is best to connect the bathroom with a separate line, because... Such premises require special precautions. It is recommended to equip this line with .

Removing old wiring

Proceed to dismantle the elements of the existing electrical wiring. De-energize the apartment using the panel.

Start dismantling the wires from the distribution boxes. The covers of these elements are usually located under the ceiling. The procedure is as follows:

1. the distribution box cover opens;
2. the input wire is cut and insulated;
3. all wires are removed.

If removing the wire is not possible, it must be cut and insulated as best as possible.

Laying new electrical cables

After dismantling the old cables, proceed to laying new ones in accordance with the selected wiring diagram in the apartment and pre-drawn drawings.

Apartment owners most often prefer hidden wiring. To lay wires according to this scheme in the walls, you must first prepare grooves. To do this, it is convenient to use a hammer drill, or even better, a self-made one.

The grooves are laid strictly perpendicular or parallel to the floor surface - diagonal laying of wires is prohibited by safety regulations.

Select the installation height of sockets and switches at your discretion. Do everything so that you feel comfortable in the future. The only thing important note: should be installed at a distance of at least 300 mm from the floor surface.

Checking the quality of work

After laying and securing all the wires in the prepared channels, you must make sure that there are no short circuits on the mounted line. This check is performed using a tester.

After making sure there is no short circuit, connect the line to voltage. Next, you need to check the functionality of sockets and lighting fixtures with a phase indicator or tester.

Finally, all that remains is to seal the channels with plaster. This completes the work on replacing the electrical wiring. For them to be as successful as possible, you need to remember simple recommendations safety precautions and adhere to them during the implementation of planned activities.

Before starting work, be sure to turn off the power to the apartment and additionally make sure that there is no voltage using a device specially designed for this purpose.

The handles of all available tools must be insulated. If there is no insulation on them, make it yourself.

If the distribution board is located on landing or in another public area, be sure to post a sign warning you that work is being done on the line.

Remember: Neglect of safety recommendations can lead not only to an early breakdown electrical circuit, but also to much more terrible and irreparable consequences, both for the apartment and for the people living in it.

Follow the instructions, treat electricity with due respect, and everything will work out.

Good luck!

Video example of installing electrical wiring in an apartment