How to make a round wall from plasterboard - detailed instructions. Design features of a protrusion for lighting on a plasterboard ceiling Protrusion from plasterboard

A plasterboard niche on the ceiling serves as a striking example of the versatility of using gypsum plasterboard, which is used both for ceiling structures, and for niches with different functionality.

Types of plasterboard niches on the ceiling

A plasterboard ceiling with a built-in niche can be installed in any room.

This is what a plasterboard niche on the ceiling looks like

Ceiling niches are used to illuminate any area, hidden curtain rods or for suspended ceilings. But still in different rooms a niche in the ceiling can perform different functions.

Kitchen

Using a ceiling niche in the kitchen, you can hide laid communications, install hidden cornices, and place spotlights. In some kitchen design projects, a niche can be used as additional storage space kitchen items, especially if we're talking about about the premises small area where everyone square meter on account.

Living room

Thanks to the installation of ceiling niches, you can radically change the geometry of the room in the living room and thereby implement any design idea.

Design of a plasterboard niche on the ceiling in the living room

However, the main function of ceiling niches is not only visual effect, but practicality and convenience. For example, niches can be assembled for lighting in the living room, for installing spotlights and dividing zones in the room. And also they are often mounted LED strips. A plasterboard niche for curtains can be combined with a box around the perimeter of the room.

Bedroom

Niches in the bedroom are used mainly to emphasize the geometry of the ceiling, in the center of which a suspended ceiling can be installed. Lighting can be built into a niche in the ceiling installed around the perimeter of the room, and hidden illuminated cornices can be installed. The ceiling niche not only decorates the room, but also creates extra bed for storing things, allows you to hide many communications.

How to make a plasterboard box on the ceiling

Drywall and profiles for mounting the box in Petrovich - https://goo.gl/v22oWt How to make a box from plasterboard on...

Design of a niche on the ceiling in the bedroom Return to contents

Design features: drawings and calculations

In order for a DIY plasterboard niche to be technically correct, aesthetically pleasing and comfortable, you should prepare calculations and a preliminary design drawing. A niche drawing should be made based on its design and purpose. If this design is multifunctional, for example, with built-in lighting and a place for a TV, then such a design can be called a combined layout. Such drawings must take into account all the features of the frame. If the niche is assembled in the form of a box under a suspended ceiling, then the drawings take into account the installation of the canvas.

Scheme and drawing of the design of a niche on the ceiling

In cases where a ceiling niche is used for a cornice and several lamps, frame calculations do not require additional tricks. If you are constructing a niche for a cornice, the frame of which will have an additional load, then you can add reinforcement in the form of sheets of plywood or chipboard.

As for design drawings, it all depends on the imagination of the master, since metal profiles and sheets of drywall allow you to create various designs of any complexity. The video shows the process of installing a plasterboard niche on the ceiling.

Required material and tools

List of materials

Guide profile.
Suspended profile.
Connectors between profiles.
Single-level connector “Crab”.
Metal hangers.
Screws for metal.
Dowel nails or anchor wedges.
Insulation.
Drywall ranging in size from 9.5 to 12.5 millimeters.

List of tools

Screwdriver.
Perforator - allows you to make holes in holes without much effort. concrete ceiling under the profile fastenings.
Metal shears – used for cutting profiles.
Pliers - a tool that allows you to connect two profiles without using hardware fasteners. Pliers can be replaced with self-tapping screws for the profile.
Painting cord or laser level - both devices are used for marking the frame.

Design option for a plasterboard ceiling niche in the bedroom

Construction level - allows you to evenly construct a niche frame.

A hacksaw with fine teeth or a plasterboard cutter are tools for cutting plasterboard sheets.

An edge plane or paint knife is a device for chamfering the transverse edges of drywall.

Tape measure – for cutting material and frame.

Hammer – for driving in dowel nails.

A set of crowns or ballerina - attachments for a screwdriver with which you can make holes different diameters for lamps and sockets.

Spatula - for sealing seams and puttying niches.

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Preparatory work

Before installing the niche, you need to mark out the room. First of all, you need to decide what the niche is for. If its function is to hide ceiling cornice, then first of all you need to measure the distance of the niche to the batteries so that the curtains do not subsequently touch them.

Diagram of a niche for a ceiling cornice

For a niche with lamps along the contour of the room, you should mark the required distance from the wall. Next, use a beating thread to beat off horizontal stripes on the ceiling and use a level to draw lines on the walls. The length of the vertical lines will depend on the thickness of the niche. Markings are also made on the wall for the lower part of the niche. They can be applied using a hydraulic level or laser level with horizontal function

Mark the niche from concrete slabs the ceiling is not recommended, as significant differences may occur, which will affect the evenness of the structure.

If you are planning a niche along the contour of the room with the installation of lamps, then you should first conduct the wiring in corrugated hoses attached with clamps to the ceiling. The cable outlet for the cartridges must be maintained in equal increments.

The main stages of work on creating a plasterboard niche

After completing the preparatory work, and in particular marking for the installation of guides and ceiling profiles, you can begin installing the frame.

Installation of metal profile

Stages of assembling a frame from a metal profile for a future niche:

Fastening gypsum board sheets and installing lighting

After the box is assembled, you can begin installing the plasterboard sheets. First of all, the material should be cut and sheathed on the side parts of the niche. To do this, the gypsum board is attached to the ends of the structure and screwed using self-tapping screws. As for the lower part of the niche, the installation occurs in exactly the same way, however, it should be taken into account that after installation you will need to make holes for the reflectors of the lamps. Next, the wires of the lamps are led out into the holes, after which the process of processing the ends of the box begins.

Diagram of the device and installation of lighting and drywall fastening

In order to smooth out any protruding edges, you can use a utility knife to carefully cut off excess cardboard from the edges of the box.

After all the corners of the niche have been turned and acquired a symmetrical shape, you need to route the cables through the holes and try to connect the lamps.

After a control check, lamps can be connected to the wiring. But they should not be permanently attached to the recess, since the box must be puttied without damaging the external reflectors of the lamps.

Finishing the niche

The very first stage of finishing is cutting off the drywall at the junctions with the wall and ceiling, as well as at the seams connecting the sheets. Next, the entire plasterboard structure must be primed using an antifungal solution and a roller. After this, at the joints of the plasterboard with the ceiling and walls, you need to seal the serpyanka. And after pasting all the seams and joints on top of the serpyanka, you need to apply a layer of putty to the ceiling. You also need to putty all the places where the screws are screwed in.

The next step There is a perforated corner sticker on the outer corners of the niche. This is done in order to simplify finishing and avoid cracks. Next, base putty is applied over the corner. It is better to apply the second layer of putty after the first has dried, usually after 12 hours. Before application, remove excess mixture with a spatula. Then, you can apply the base putty with a wide spatula.

An example of finishing a plasterboard niche on a ceiling

The last step will be applying the finishing putty. Before this, the surface must be cleared of deposits and in one thin layer apply putty. After the putty has dried, the surface must be sanded, primed and glued with fiberglass, on top of which the finishing putty is applied. After drying, the niche must be sanded again with fine-grained sandpaper. Upon completion of all stages of finishing, you can begin painting or wallpapering. The lamps are inserted directly last stage, When Painting works finished.

How to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands: advice from the experts

Those who want to make their own two-level ceiling from plasterboard, in this article you will find a detailed description of this process.

There are quite a few forms of two-level suspended ceilings, but their installation is almost the same. The main difference is the creation of rectilinear or curved structures.

Carrying out preparatory work

The installation process should begin only after all materials and tools have been purchased. You also need to check whether it is possible, given the existing ceiling height, to lower it by about 8-10 cm, but not less. This is simply impossible to do in standard apartments. But there is a way out of this situation - you need to use the base ceiling as the upper tier. It should be perfectly smooth, and if there are any uneven spots, they should be leveled out. Only then will it be possible to begin installing a two-level ceiling.

Designing a two-level plasterboard ceiling

Without a detailed design drawing, it is best not to even start work. In the case of a single-level ceiling, its presence is not necessary, since there are no particularly complex calculations. But it’s almost impossible to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling without a drawing. The most optimal solution will create a 3D model of the future ceiling. This will help simplify the work a little and determine the shape of the ceiling.

When the project fully satisfies all your requests and wishes, then you need to calculate the quantity necessary materials and start laying the electrical wiring.

Communications

Multi-tiered structures make it possible to insulate the ceiling and improve its sound insulation. But such work should be carried out only after the frame has been installed. If we talk about electrical wiring, ventilation ducts and other communications, then their wiring must be done before work on installing the ceiling begins.

The location of the lamps and their models need to be thought out in advance. This also applies to the air conditioner or kitchen hood, in the event that the ceiling will be installed in the kitchen.

Such issues should be dealt with by professionals, because they will definitely be able to do correct calculations and then do the installation. If errors are made in the calculations, they cannot be corrected after the work is completed.

Sometimes the customer cannot immediately buy the necessary devices that will need to be connected to the network under a suspended ceiling, for example, lamps. Then you need to rewrite their main parameters, among which are the power and dimensions of the mounting fixtures (for recessed luminaires). Once this work is completed, it is necessary to sketch out the electrical wiring diagram and apply the exact dimensions to it.

Installation process

There are several options for installing a two-level ceiling, and each specialist gives preference to one or another option. For example, some people first make the entire frame of the upper tier, then line all its visible parts with plasterboard sheets. Upon completion of this work, they begin installing the lower tier.

Other craftsmen do everything the other way around, in other words, first the frame of the lower tier is made, and then it is attached to the base ceiling.

It is impossible to say specifically which method is better, and its choice depends directly on the design of the future ceiling and also on the area of the second tier. For example, if the area of the lower level is much larger than the area of the upper level, then it is not worth making a flat frame for the entire ceiling. Firstly, this is an extra expense for the metal profile and fasteners, and secondly, fastening to the base ceiling in such cases is much more reliable.

If the upper level looks like a narrow box running around the perimeter, or if there is a protrusion in the center, then it is best to install a two-level ceiling using the first method.

You can learn how to make a flat top-level frame from the article on installing a suspended ceiling made of plasterboard. Now we will take a closer look at the installation of the frame for the lower level.

Installation of the frame for the lower level

First of all, a design diagram in actual size should be applied to the ceiling, horizontal lines on the walls, in this case you need to retreat from the base ceiling to approximately the depth of the second level.
Next, along these lines it is necessary to secure a guide profile (PNP 27x28). To create a smooth bend, you need to cut 2 adjacent walls of the profile, and then give the required shape. Then, using each segment, you need to attach the profile to the ceiling.
Next, you need to make markings under the guide profile. According to this marking, the longitudinal ceiling profile (PP 60x27) will be attached. In this case, you need to ensure that there is a distance of 40 cm between the axes.
According to the markings, you need to draw perpendicular lines on the wall. These are projections of the profile axes. It is along these lines that you need to fasten the spring hangers and maintain a distance of 60 cm between them. Remember that under no circumstances should you use dowel nails. For this type of work, it is better to take anchor dowels. If there is a fire in the house, the plastic dowels will not be able to hold the structure and it will collapse.
From ceiling profile you need to cut segments whose length corresponds to the depth of the second level. Then, in the same sections, you need to cut the side shelves, approximately to a height of 3 cm, and leave the base. Next, these jumpers are inserted with the flat side into the upper guide profile and screwed to it. If these are fastenings on a flat area, then you need to maintain a step of 60 cm, and 20-30 cm on curved ones. If in vertical wall If you plan to place spotlights for plasterboard ceilings, then before attaching the lintels, you need to check the diagram.
It is necessary to form a lower profile on the floor, repeating the figure on the ceiling. Make sure the profile is facing the wall. To form a bend, it is necessary to trim 2 parallel sides, but not adjacent ones.
Further finished design must be screwed to the jumpers. In this case, “the profile tongue must be superimposed on the base of the profile.
It is necessary to cut strips of drywall and screw them to the frame. Their width should correspond to the depth of the second level. Next, one side of the cardboard needs to be moistened with water and left for about an hour, but first you need to make perforations using a special needle roller. This is necessary in order to bend the drywall strip.
Now it’s the turn of the longitudinal PP profile, which needs to be secured between the guides. This is necessary to consolidate the second level. Each profile must be measured locally. Before proceeding with installation, you need to put “crabs” on the longitudinal PP profiles, which are necessary to connect them with the transverse ones.
The transverse profiles need to be installed in the “crab” legs, then fastened with small metal screws.
Now all that remains is to fix the longitudinal profiles on the hangers and level them.

Installing the upper level frame

After you have completed the previous stage, you will already know everything about how to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling.

The flat frame for the upper level must be assembled on direct hangers, and all the nuances of the process are already known to you. It is also necessary to maintain a distance of 40 cm between the axes, and attach the jumpers at the junction of the drywall sheets.

Plasterboard cladding

Before you start covering, you need to re-check the communications diagram, and if the need arises, then in those places where heavy lamps will be attached, you need to strengthen the structure. After this, the ends of the wires need to be lowered, and care should be taken to insulate the frame in terms of heat and sound insulation. Only after completing this work can you begin cladding.

And at the end of the article, I would like to note that where the drywall adjoins the walls, the factory chamfer must be cut off from it. The same thing needs to be done in the places adjacent to the vertical step of the second level. In such places the sheet is thinner, and this can lead to problems with the finishing of the ceiling.

One of the universal and available materials Today, plasterboard sheets (gypsum plasterboard) are considered to be used for finishing any premises. They can be used to level walls, ceilings and floors in any residential or office premises, door trims and window slopes, creation of various architectural structures and decorative interior elements in the form of partitions, columns, built-in shelves and niches, arched forms, domed vaults, etc.

Similar structures consist of plasterboard sheets fixed to a profile metal frame of the required shape, followed by final finishing.

Benefits of drywall

Plasterboard structures used in interior premises have the following advantages:

provide almost perfect smooth surfaces;
make it possible to create curved surfaces and individual elements of any shape and complexity;
have high environmental friendliness and breathability of the material;

have excellent heat and;
are characterized by sufficient lightness, strength and fire resistance;
are a convenient basis for final finishing (painting, wallpaper, ceramic tiles);
have affordable prices for consumables;
provide simple and quick installation that does not require special skills or the use of special equipment and tools.

These properties allow the use of plasterboard sheets as a modern universal finishing material.

Main types of individual gypsum plasterboard structures

Interior decoration various surfaces and the creation of individual decorative elements in the interior of a room using plasterboard sheets has its own characteristics. Let's look at them in more detail.

Ceiling

Finishing ceilings using gypsum boards is one of the most popular and frequently used technologies today, along with stretch ceilings. It is usually used in cases of:

need to hide uneven surface ceiling;
the need to hide various communication lines running along the ceiling (pipes, cables, ventilation ducts, etc.);
Creation original interior premises.

The use of plasterboard structures for the ceiling allows you to implement almost any design that satisfies the wishes of the owner of the apartment or office.

At the same time, finishing of the gypsum board ceiling can be done in any room, including using special grades of plasterboard (waterproof, fire-resistant).

The main types of plasterboard ceilings are:

single-level;
combined, which combine structures from gypsum plasterboard sheets and suspended ceiling elements.

Device plasterboard ceiling starts with installation load-bearing frame from a metal profile onto which gypsum plasterboard sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws. After this, the surface is carefully puttied and painted in the desired color.

An additional element that gives a special originality to a plasterboard ceiling is the installation of built-in LED or neon lights. This allows you to achieve, for example, the effect of a “starry sky” or “floating” elements on the ceiling, thereby creating unique interior rooms.

Walls

Using plasterboard sheets is often used for interior decoration premises.

In addition to direct decorative functions, this allows you to create additional heat and sound insulation of the walls, as well as hide electrical wiring, pipelines and other communication lines laid along the walls.

At the same time, built-in shelves, niches and other decorative elements, complementing the overall design of the room.

GKL sheets are attached directly to the wall or to a pre-installed frame made of metal profiles or wooden blocks. To finish the walls, plasterboard sheets with a thickness of at least 12.5 mm are used, and in some cases, two-layer installation is used to ensure sufficient structural rigidity.

Can be done in almost any room. It is most effective for external walls that are subject to freezing during the cold season. This allows you to additionally insulate the room and prevent the appearance of condensation, mold and mildew on the walls.

Floor

To level the floor surface, the “dry floor” method is used using special plasterboard sheets that have increased strength and wear resistance.

Such sheets are laid in two layers on any prepared base and can be covered on top with any floor covering(linoleum, parquet, laminate, ceramic tiles). The advantage of this method of leveling the floor is the speed and manufacturability of the work carried out.

Plasterboard flooring sheets can also be used to create various multi-level floor design structures, for example in the form of hiding heating pipes and other communications laid along the walls.

Additionally, they can be built into various lighting, giving special originality to the interior of the room.

Partitions

The main purpose is to zoning the interior space into separate parts.

Such plasterboard structures are made of a metal profile frame, rigidly attached to the walls, floor and ceiling and sheathed with sheets of plasterboard.

The internal space of partitions is usually filled with some kind of soundproofing material.

Openings in partitions can be made in the form arched structures or various curved and wavy surfaces that create unique design interior of the room.

Also, built-in shelves and niches can be provided inside the partitions, performing both decorative and purely practical functions for storing various things.

Built-in shelves and niches

IN plasterboard structures can organically fit into the interior of any room and at the same time carry additional function by placing various items on them (equipment, books, souvenirs, photographs, etc.).

The shape and configuration of such structures can be very diverse. Often spot lighting is installed inside them, giving originality to the entire interior of the room. The final finishing of such a structure depends entirely on its further functional purpose.

Arched structures

Arched structures can be installed almost anywhere in the apartment. Most often they are located in corridors and interior openings.

The shape and size of the arch can be any, but in this case you need to take into account the fact that the greater the height of the arch, the more aesthetically pleasing and beautiful it will look.

As a rule, it consists of three main elements: two semicircular sheets of plasterboard and a rectangular strip equal to the width of the doorway.

To construct an arch, a frame made of a metal profile of the desired shape is installed in the upper part of the opening, to which side sheets are attached on both sides and a rectangular element at the bottom.

Before final finishing, the outer edges of the arch are reinforced with a special perforated corner or reinforcing tape.

This sheet material is currently the most popular for cladding. internal partitions, and installation of a plasterboard wall is the simplest and most productive in construction. Therefore, it makes sense to consider what wall cladding with this material is in more detail.

Marking the room

The first action before the start of construction work is the layout of the premises. If you decide to install drywall to finish the surfaces, you should consider some points.

The standard dimensions of sheets of this material are 1200 - 1300 x 2500 - 4800 mm with a thickness of 6.5 to 24 mm. Moreover, almost each size is intended to perform its specific task.

To reduce the labor intensity of the work, reduce the consumption of fasteners and cut the material as efficiently as possible, these data should be taken into account when planning the room. For example, the ceiling height is considered comfortable at 2.5 meters, which corresponds to the size of the sheet. Often this parameter is taken to be 2.53, we will indicate the reasons below. Likewise, the width of the premises should preferably be a multiple of the whole number of sheets. Or a multiple of half the size, then the cutting of the material will be optimal.

When determining the size of the premises, it is also necessary to take into account the thickness of the internal walls and partitions, since this factor will also affect the cutting of the material. This means that we are moving on to deeper detail - to determining the dimensions of the sheathing and selecting materials for its manufacture. And behind each such detail lies the amount of labor intensity and financial costs.

Types of drywall

Based on the properties incorporated by the developers into such building materials, gypsum plasterboard is divided into the following types:

ordinary drywall. It consists of a layer of gypsum dough and a cardboard coating on both sides, used for finishing rooms with humidity within normal limits. Widely used due to ease of use, good machinability, light weight and cost-effectiveness;
GKL with fire-resistant characteristics. Convenient to use for utility rooms such as summer kitchens and others non-residential premises. Can be used near heating devices, stoves and fireplaces;
moisture-resistant plasterboard, allowing its use in rooms with high humidity - baths, bathrooms, toilets and others. Thanks to the use of special additives, it is protected from the effects of fungus and mold. Ideal for finishing country houses, where humidity is usually higher compared to city apartments;
fire - a moisture-resistant material that is almost universal.

According to their purpose, plasterboards are divided into the following categories:

arched – with a thickness of up to 6.5 mm, allowing large deformations in several planes at the same time, such properties are also given to it by reinforcing additives of the fibrous structure;
ceiling - thickness up to 9.5 mm, lightweight design;
wall – for finishing walls and installing partitions, thickness 12.5 mm.

With this thickness, which is the most popular, the weight of a standard sheet of 1.2 x 2.5 meters is 30 kg.

Tool for working with drywall

The material does not have high mechanical properties and is easy to process simple tool. You can use this tool:

saw - hacksaw for wood. Purpose – sawing plasterboard sheets into parts during installation;
circular saw - for making long straight cuts when cutting;
jigsaw – cutting out parts complex shape by marking;
construction knife – trimming the edges of parts after sawing;
tape measure - measurements when marking and cutting;
construction plumb line – control of the position of the sheet in space during installation;
carpenter's level - the same;
electric drill – drilling holes for fasteners;
screwdriver - installation of fasteners when fixing plasterboard parts, assembling a frame from metal profiles;
a set of spatulas, including narrow, medium, wide, angled metal and rubber;
paint brush – for applying primer;
foam roller - for the same purpose;
drill attachment for stirring dry mixtures;
sandpaper No. 4 or No. 5;
container for stirring mixtures.

This is the main set of tools with which leveling, priming, and decorative finishing plasterboard walls.

In addition, you will need materials:

primer - to strengthen the surface of the walls;
acrylic putty – repair and preparation of the surface of plasterboard boards for applying the main leveling layer;
tape - serpyanka made of fiberglass;
drywall fasteners – specially shaped self-tapping screws;
insulation for laying under sheets of plasterboard during the construction of partitions for the purpose of insulation and sound insulation;
GKL of various sizes, including 6.5 mm thick - for creating spatial shapes of parts; 9.5 mm thick – for ceilings; 12.5 mm thick - for wall cladding, up to 24 mm thick - for laying floor coverings with dry screed.

Assembling a gypsum board wall

To build a wall from this material, you will first need to build a base for it - metal or wooden frame for drywall. The choice of material for the wall is far from an idle question. Despite the apparent benefits of using wood, the developer faces many difficulties associated with the properties of the material:

the need for antiseptic treatment of every part, which will help get rid of the risk of rot or fungal diseases. Fire protection treatment, especially if hidden electrical wiring is installed inside the frame, which is what most often happens. In addition to processing wood, electrical installations must be placed in a flexible corrugated hose made of special materials;
careful selection of material based on straightness and absence of helical deformations;
changes in the size of parts with fluctuations in the humidity conditions in the room, which is especially important for suburban buildings with periodic visits, which results in warping of the frame and swelling of the wall surface.

All these difficulties will inevitably require, in addition to material costs, also large quantity time.

Metal frames made of galvanized steel in the form of bent perforated profiles are free of all these disadvantages.

Several types are available, designed to perform various elements designs:

Ceiling profiles, designated as CD, with cross-sectional dimensions of 60 x 27 mm.
Ceiling guide profiles CW 28 x 27 mm.
Rack-mount, UD – 50 x 50, 75 x 50 and 100 x 50 mm.
Guide profiles with dimensions of 50 x 40, 75 x 40, 100 x 40 mm.

The standard length of profile guides is 3 meters, ceiling and rack - 3 or 4 meters.

U-shaped straight hangers for connecting ceiling and CD profiles are produced as auxiliary parts.

In addition, you will probably need corner framing profiles and, possibly, arched ones.

A metal profile frame for a wall begins with marking its location. It is done on the floor and then transferred to the ceiling using a plumb line and a painting cord, which will ensure strict verticality of the structure.

The construction of a wall or partition must begin with the creation of a frame, using UW guide profiles and CW rack profiles.

Fastening the base parts must be done in increments of at least 60 cm.

When choosing the spacing of the racks, you should remember that the dimensions of the plasterboard sheet are multiples of 600 mm, so the racks are installed based on this parameter. Attention! At the location of the door on the floor, you need to break the frame.

on one side of the frame you need to stretch a vapor barrier film, for which a polyethylene film about 200 microns thick is used. It is pulled onto the frame and secured with construction tape;
you need to understand how to attach a sheet of drywall. Important! To perform this work, self-tapping screws of a special design are used.
Pay attention to the shape of the screw head. It allows you to attach the sheet flush without destroying the surface of the coating.
similarly install the remaining parts of the wall cladding on one side, making a cutout for the doorway;
the openings between the racks must be filled with insulation, which at the same time serves as a soundproofing device. Otherwise, the double hollow wall will act as a resonator, amplifying sounds. For this purpose they are used various materials, both slab (mini-slab) and roll, such as isover, the installation of insulation of more than 2 layers will entail the need to construct a three-dimensional frame. Insulation of walls and sound insulation will allow living to be quite comfortable;
before sheathing the second side of the frame, you need to install a second layer of vapor protection, proceeding in the same way as for the first side;
sheets of plasterboard are sewn over the vapor barrier with screws with a diameter of 6 or 8 mm. Their installation is carried out in increments of at least 250 - 300 mm. Therefore, performing this operation manually with a screwdriver is not possible; you cannot do without a screwdriver.

Attention! Cutting galvanized frame profiles must be done manually with a hacksaw and a broom. The use of a hand sander burns out protective layer, subsequently the metal in this place will actively corrode. After cutting, the end must be painted over with a special protective paint, consisting of 85% fine metallic zinc.

Leveling walls with plasterboard

Often during construction or renovation, planning the surface of a wall or partition is much easier to do using gypsum plasterboard than with plaster. Usually this is also done using a frame, when plasterboard is attached to the wall on a profile. Before attaching the profile to the wall, you need to determine the point of its closest location to the wall and install floor and ceiling guides. Then installing the racks will not cause problems, since all of them are already structurally distant from the walls.

As a result of the work performed, a smooth wall is obtained and all that remains is to prepare its surface for applying the finishing coating.

There is a way to level a wall with plasterboard without a frame. It should be noted that the quality of the base surface must be quite high. Before attaching drywall to a wall without profiles, you must carefully remove all protrusions that could interfere with it. Installation technologies can be like this:

attach the gypsum board part to the wall and drill the mounting holes. At the same time, on base surface there will be marks from the drill, which will be marks for the mounting holes;
remove the part and use these marks to drill holes for installing plastic inserts;
apply to the wall adhesive composition on a cement or gypsum base, level with a comb spatula. You can also use polyurethane glue;
install the part in place, secure it with screws.

Knowing how to glue drywall to a wall, you can easily deal with the rest of the covering elements.

Surface putty

For final preparation of the wall plane for the finishing coating, it is used to finish it with putty. This is done like this:

primer with the recommended composition, gluing corners and joints with sickle tape;
applying a primary layer of putty, sanding after drying;
finishing the surface with a finishing composition of putty, drying, grinding;
thorough cleaning of the surface of the walls and the entire room from dust;
finishing primer of walls for final coating.

Knowing how to make a plasterboard wall, any developer can cope with this task on his own. You just need to use the information received here correctly.

At the same time, invited specialists will perform this work at a price per square meter from 600 to 800 rubles. However, in any case - good luck to you!

If you need to build a wall, partition, arch or niche from plasterboard, then it is extremely important to know not only the technical aspects of installation, but also the features of the material itself.

Peculiarities

A sheet of plasterboard is a lightweight and flexible material with which you can quickly and easily transform an office, home or apartment. From this material you can either build a wall or build an ornate interior structure.

The structure of plasterboard sheet (GKL) fully corresponds to the name: its core is made of gypsum with mineral pigments, to which the surface layer of cardboard is attached using glue.

The advantages of the material are well known to professional finishers. They are as follows:

allow you to create perfectly smooth surfaces vertically and horizontally;
allow the construction of curved structures, as well as individual elements of the various shapes and complexity;
have good breathability, promote air circulation and maintain a healthy indoor microclimate;
differ in sound insulation;
characterized by high thermal insulation;
made from environmentally friendly materials, do not cause allergies;
fire-resistant, not prone to spontaneous combustion, do not support combustion and protect walls in case of fire;

are light in weight;
easy to install, do not require professional skills or special equipment for cladding;
the price of gypsum board and its consumables is affordable;
a coating made from this fiber is optimal for any type of finishing (painting, plastering, wallpapering);
leave little waste.

The use of gypsum plasterboard can significantly reduce the time spent on finishing work; for example, a partition made of plasterboard can be built in a few hours, while the construction of a similar structure made of brick will require two or more days.

Like any building material, plasterboard has some disadvantages that significantly limit the scope of its use - the panels are not durable, they are destroyed by mechanical damage, and in addition, they absorb moisture.

And attaching anything to such a covering is quite problematic - only dowels and screws can hold a picture or a bulky shelf on it. But even in this case, it is undesirable to place anything heavy; this will cause the wall to collapse at any moment.

Types of structures

Using plasterboard, you can build structures that are diverse in appearance and functionality, namely:

walls that divide the room;
partitions of any shape;
complex interior installations.

A plasterboard wall or partition has practical functionality or performs a purely decorative function. Using sheets, you can divide the space into zones, build niches, change the location and shape of the doorway, create a false wall, and achieve increased heat and sound insulation.

Partitions made from gypsum plasterboard are considered to be more appropriate than similar installations made from other materials: brick, wood and foam blocks. Partitions made from plasterboard fiber are produced in a short time, their cost is much lower than options made from brick or wood. The false wall remains hollow inside, which makes it possible to lay the necessary engineering Communication and provide additional insulation.

The material is light in weight and small in size, it is easy to cut, so installation can be carried out even by a person with minimal experience using the usual tools found in every home.

There are a great many options for gypsum plasterboard partitions. The following are distinguished:

by profile type: regular and arched;
By functional purpose: temporary or capital;
by design type: solid or with an opening for a door or window;
by type of installation: sliding or stationary.

In addition, partitions and interior walls from gypsum boards differ in thickness and some other criteria.

Decorative plasterboard partitions, as a rule, are installed in order to hide flaws in the room and cover heating radiators. They do not require serious fasteners, and are often complemented with stylish elements: lighting, mosaics, inserts from other types of materials. Usually the same elements are fixed with glue or installed on a frame. Models that have a practical purpose are mounted during internal repair work. They modify general form premises, contribute to its division into different zones and add finishing elements additional functionality. Such walls and partitions are installed frame method and are attached to all walls in the room.

Regardless of the type of partitions, each has the same structure, namely:

the frame is made of wood or metal profiles;
cladding made from gypsum plasterboard sheets is used for walls or partitions;
The wall filling is glass wool or mineral wool, which contributes to additional noise and heat insulation.

Depending on the technical characteristics There are several types of drywall:

Wall gypsum board It is characterized by a thickness of 12.5 mm, a width of 1.2 m, and the length of the sheet can be 2.3 or 2.5 m. It does not contain any additives and is used for the installation of walls and partitions.
Ceiling gypsum board has a thickness of 9.5 mm, width is 1.2 m, length - 2 or 2.5 m. This lightweight modification has found wide application in the construction of niches and door arches, as well as in the cladding of ceilings. It differs from the first option only in thickness.

GKLV– This is a moisture-resistant material. Its thickness is the same as that of the wall version, the width is also standard (1.2 m), and the length can be 2 or 2.3 m. A distinctive feature of the material is the introduction of moisture-resistant pigments and antifungal impregnations into the structure. Thanks to them, the material becomes hygroscopic, resists moisture and is used in rooms with high humidity (bathrooms and showers).
GKLO- This is a sheet of plasterboard with fire-resistant parameters. It has standard parameters: thickness 12.5 mm, width 1.2 m, length 2.3 or 2.5 meters. The core of this type of fiber contains active components that are resistant to high temperatures and combustion, all this is enhanced with special fire-resistant impregnations. The material is widely used in areas where high demands are placed. fire safety, as well as for lining fireplaces and chimneys.

It is worth paying attention to the fact that the cardboard covering of all types of gypsum boards is fire resistant. This material does not burn, and at most only chars. But the core resists flame only in GKLO.

GKLVO is a moisture- and fire-resistant material that combines all the advantages of gypsum boards and gypsum boards.
Arched gypsum board used to create exquisite wave-like designs and rounded interior elements. Its width complies with the standards of 1.2 m, the length is presented in one version - 3 m. But the thickness of the sheet is small - only 6.5 mm. The small thickness, as well as the introduction of fiberglass threads into the composition, results in increased flexibility and ductility of the material. Such sheets have a fairly high price, and the fact that they have to be mounted in several layers makes Finishing work more expensive.