Installing siding on the walls of the facade of the house can be easily and quickly if you know some important installation features. The technology for the correct installation of siding primarily provides for a thorough preparation of the base of the entire surface of the facade. Aligning the walls with respect to the vertical level is the key to a quick and correct installation of siding. In the article, we will consider some important features of installing siding with our own hands, and the video instruction below will clearly help you understand the nuances of installation.

Features of installing siding with your own hands

Today, vinyl and metal siding can be attributed to the most popular and budget materials for facade decoration. Installing vinyl or metal siding is quick and easy, so you can do it yourself. The installation of siding should always be carried out on a pre-prepared frame, consisting of dry and even wooden blocks (budget option), as well as on a crate made of a metal profile.

Do-it-yourself siding lathing technology

• Experts recommend using dry wooden bars or metal profiles as a material for installing lathing under siding. The bars should be free of cracks and knots, always dry and even, and also not rotten. It is not recommended to use larch bars, since, firstly, they are heavy, uncomfortable, and secondly, self-tapping screws are poorly screwed into them and nails are hammered. The ideal and also economical option for the bars is pine.
• It is better to choose no more than 3 m along the length of the bars, with this length they are less susceptible to deformation during storage and transportation. The width of the block should not be less than 30 mm, and the thickness should not be less than 25 mm. Ideally, it is better to use a bar of 30x40 mm, or 30x50 mm.
• You can also make a crate for siding from a metal profile. Galvanized steel profiles are perfectly flat and strong enough, so this is the best option for a subsystem, although such a crate will cost a little more than wooden bars.
• Basically, for the installation of the lathing for siding, the PP profile brand (galvanized ceiling profile) is commonly used. The length of such a profile is 3 m, width 60 mm, with a height of 27 mm. Usually, the length of the profile is enough for the lathing under the siding of one-story buildings, and with a facade height of more than 3 m, the profiles are added, and the profile must also be placed under the cladding of the gable part of the wall.

Bars are installed to the wall as follows:

• Depending on the type of siding, metal or vinyl make the necessary markings on the wall. So for vinyl siding, the step between the lathing bars is made no more than 300-400 mm, and for metal siding at least 400-600 mm. The markings for the installation of suspensions for fastening the rails are best done with a pencil or chalk using a profile or bar for this, as well as a building level.
• For quick markings, draw marks on the lower part of the facade with a suitable pitch and, relying on them with the help of a profile and a level, draw marks for the installation of suspensions in the upper part of the wall. Repeat the operation on the following walls.
• At a height of one bar or profile of 3 m, it is necessary to fix at least 4-5 suspensions approximately every 50-60 cm.

IMPORTANT! Straight metal suspensions for the installation of siding battens are mainly used for light types of finishing materials (vinyl or metal siding), for example, such fasteners for cladding the facade with heavy fiber cement panels for the exterior of a house are impractical. In the case of heavy types of cladding facade materials for the attachment of the subsystem, special metal brackets are used that are securely attached to the wall.

• To the wooden wall the suspension is fixed in the center of the marked line with two self-tapping screws for wood with a length of at least 30 cm.
• Then the suspensions are bent U-shaped and the profile is inserted into them.
• Installation of all profiles should be started from the installation of profiles at the corners of the wall. To do this, place the profile in one corner according to the level, and then repeat the operation on the other.
• Screw the self-tapping screws at the top and bottom of the corner profiles and, leaning on the fasteners, pull the construction control cord from below and from above.

IMPORTANT! The cord is a control element, therefore, when setting all other profiles along it, try not to touch or knock the lacing.

The lathing is exposed over the entire area of ​​the facade, now you can start installing the siding with your own hands.

Features of installing horizontal siding

• Horizontal installation of siding panels is the preferred option. This type of installation is used almost everywhere, since it has good aesthetic characteristics, and also better protects the facade from atmospheric phenomena.
• It is necessary to fix the siding horizontally on the crate, mounted vertically. In this case, the starting profile is also fixed in a horizontal position, stepping back from the base 1-2 cm, (depending on the evenness of the foundation itself relative to the horizontal level).
• You should install the siding panel with your own hands from the very bottom, hooking its lower edge to the initial profile and carefully screw it to the crate without tension, while the panel must be almost back to back (retreating 3-5 mm) into the corner or connecting profile. This is necessary in order to compensate for the expansion and contraction of the panel during temperature changes, thereby preventing its deformation.

Vertical siding installation

To install the siding vertically, a horizontal installation of the fittings is required. In this case, the siding panel will have to be fixed from top to bottom, starting from the corner (corner profiles are installed before installing the siding) into the groove of which the lower edge of the panel must be pushed. The starting rail is not needed for this installation. Self-tapping screws into the profiled holes of the siding panel should be screwed into the upper part of the slot (not completely), leaving a small gap of about 1-1.5 mm, which compensates for the temperature effects.

How to properly install siding on metal or wood sheathing

• Siding can be installed both on a wooden subsystem and on a metal one. Siding installation technology on wooden blocks, it is necessary to use wood screws with rare carvings at least 30 cm long. In rare cases, nails are used as a fastener (not recommended).
• To the metal crate, the siding is installed on self-tapping screws for metal with a drilling or sharp tip, while the length of the self-tapping screw should be at least 20 mm, so it is better, faster and more reliable to screw the self-tapping screw into the metal profile.

IMPORTANT! Self-tapping screws for installing siding with your own hands should be used galvanized, so you will prevent rusty smudges on the surface of the siding cladding.

• The siding fastening technology provides for the preliminary installation of the fittings of all additional accessories and elements. In the kit for siding, you need to purchase starting and finishing strips, connecting profiles, corner elements, sloping strips, soffits. Only after all the additional elements have been installed can you start installing the siding itself.

Finally

The price per square meter of siding from various companies can reach 500-1000 rubles. Therefore, it is advisable to carry out activities for installing siding, do it yourself and save a lot at the same time. The money saved can be invested in the purchase of finishing materials or insulation.

In fact, there is nothing difficult in installing siding with your own hands. You just need a little desire and a little optimism, as well as have a pencil, tape measure, level, screwdriver and grinder on hand.

Do-it-yourself siding installation: video instruction

Already a lot, including on this site. The material is practical, relatively inexpensive, absolutely affordable. After the purchase, the following question immediately arises: entrust the cladding to an invited master, or do it yourself? The first option is preferable when there is an excess of money. If there is none, you will have to do the installation of siding yourself. A video instruction (and more than one) will just help any novice builder to master this process.

Preparation

Before proceeding directly with the installation of siding, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory work. It will take some time, but it will ensure a comfortable work and save you from mistakes. What actions should be included in the preparatory phase?

• Workplace design. The area around the house around the perimeter should be cleaned, preferably a workbench for marking and cutting material.

• A prerequisite is that the house should already shrink, the cracks that have formed must be hidden under the facade plaster, this process is shown in the video instructions below.

• If an old building is sheathed, it is necessary to dismantle the existing cladding, problem areas (mold, rot) are treated with an antiseptic, painted over or removed. Seams and chips can be sealed.

• Further, we must remember that no surface can be perfectly flat. It will inevitably have depressions, protrusions, general deviations from the vertical and horizontal. All these flaws will have to be eliminated. Somewhere cut a piece of reinforcement, somewhere a piece of a nail.

• The next stage is the installation of siding with your own hands - stuffing the lathing. It can be of two types: wooden blocks or metal profiles. The distance between the supporting elements is 350-400 mm.

• Insulation (basalt wool, extruded or foamed polystyrene foam) is placed in the intervals between them.

Only after this can we say that the preparatory work is completed, and the siding itself can be mounted. However, we remember that there are at least three types of this finishing material on the market (vinyl, metal and basement). Each of them has some features and installation secrets. It's time to see what they are.

Video instruction - DIY metal siding installation

This video shows how a regular white brick can be “dressed” in a pretty outfit. Demonstrated the installation of wooden lathing, the process of insulation, laying of metal siding.

In this video, metal profiles are attached to a wooden base.

Finally, this video contains specific instructions on how to properly attach metal structures, how to assemble metal siding with your own hands, how to get around windows, etc.

A few practical tips. Installation step - 350-400 mm. The panels should move freely a little on self-tapping screws.

Video instruction - DIY vinyl siding installation

Very detailed instructions for vinyl siding.

The fastening of the lathing, sealing, the geometry of the hardware, the DIY installation process, the permissible gaps, the type of components, bypassing the corners are clearly shown.

This video demonstrates how you can make "candy" out of a nondescript home using vinyl siding.

If something is not clear after viewing, then here is a short siding installation algorithm.

• First, the technical elements are put: starting strip, butt H-strips, J-profiles for window decoration, corner elements. In this case, the starting strip must be 5 mm higher than the lower edge of the corner profile.

• Fasteners - galvanized nails or self-tapping screws.

• The "corners" first move freely on the upper hardware.

• All self-tapping screws are not tightened to the stop by 1 turn to compensate for temperature expansions.

• After connecting the siding panels into the lock, it is enough to simply press them to the base and secure.

Egor11

For the untrained person, the variety of exterior materials available on the market today can cause some confusion.

Such advantages are often decisive factors when choosing siding for house cladding. The only question remains the installation technology, which should be discussed in more detail.

If you do not have experience in finishing work, siding becomes the best solution, which has a number of advantages over other types of finishing:

• There is no need for "wet" work (plastering, etc.).
• Restrictions on weather or temperature conditions are set by the employee himself according to his own feelings.
• To install the material, you do not need any special skills, the ease of installation provides the possibility of self-cladding at home.
• The result of the work looks very impressive and serves for a very long time.

This article is a step-by-step installation guide for dummies.

Siding is a cladding material used for exterior decoration of buildings. It has the form of elongated narrow strips with a longitudinal relief applied to them, imitating various options for wooden buildings (most often) or, less often, masonry.

The strips (panels, lamellas) are equipped with special bumpers for attaching to the support on one side and for connecting to each other on the other. The design allows you to collect from them canvases of any size.

The assembly of the siding is done on site, which is convenient and practical. The panels are lightweight and therefore easy to lift and carry. In principle, it is possible to work alone, but for large areas with long panels, an assistant is needed.

The homeland of siding is Canada, where it was first produced.

The first samples were made of wood, today there are different types of material:

• (PVC, acrylic, etc.)

The most common types of plastic (PVC) and metal siding have the best performance or the best combination of quality and price.

In addition, there are many profile options.:

• Timberblock.
• etc.

In the direction of installation:

• Horizontal.
• siding.

Some types allow installation in both directions at the request of the owner.

Developers are constantly supplementing the lineup, so there cannot be an exhaustive list, the list always remains open.

Siding package

In addition to panels capable of forming only planes, additional elements (extensions) are produced that serve to decorate the joints of different canvases at an angle or in the same plane, for finishing window or door openings, etc.

To standard types can be attributed:

• Simple and difficult corner (outside and inside).
• H-profile.
• J-bar.
• Starting bar.
• Finishing plank.
• Platband.
• Soffit.
• Window profile.

All additional elements fully correspond to the main panels in terms of material type, color or type of protective coating.

Attention! Sometimes, as decoration, addons of a different, contrasting color are used, which gives the sheathing an elegant and original look.

Choosing a lathing - which is better, wood or metal?

The lathing is a system of planks arranged in a certain order perpendicular to the direction of the panels and serving as a support for them. It is customary to use wooden bars or metal drywall guides as a material for the lathing.

The controversy has been heard from the very first days of using the planking. Wooden planks have low thermal conductivity, while metal planks conduct heat very well and need insulation.

At the same time, wooden parts have a common disease - they are prone to warping, deformation during shrinkage and decay. The metal profile does not create such problems, it is protected from corrosion by a galvanized layer.

Another problem with wood blocks is curvature. Choosing a perfectly straight line from a pack of bars is a difficult task, since wood is highly susceptible to bending or screwing. The metal profile is almost perfectly straight.

Thus, a metal profile seems to be a more successful option for creating a lathing, but one should take into account the cavity formed by it and fill it in parallel with the installation of the insulation.

Installation of the selected lathing

The installation of the lathing begins with the installation of the extreme slats (if you plan to install vertical siding, then the upper and lower ones). They are attached to the wall at the corners, the position is checked by a plumb line... Then a cord (at least two) is pulled between the extreme strips, which serves to check the position of the intermediate strips of the crate and ensure a plane.

Intermediate strips are installed with a step that allows you to tightly lay insulation plates between them. To ensure a flatness, pieces of wood, plywood, etc. should be placed under them in the right places.(for wooden lathing) or adjust the height of the metal profile above the wall plane when using a straight (U-shaped) plasterboard suspension.

After installing the first layer of planks and carrying out intermediate operations, a counter-lattice is installed, which will directly serve as a support for the siding. It is installed perpendicular to the planks of the first layer (and, accordingly, to the siding panels), with a step that ensures optimal fastening of the sheathing (40-60 cm, in some cases 30-40 cm).

The counter-grill performs an additional function of providing a ventilation gap between the casing and the wall cake, which ensures the outlet of steam a.

NOTE!

If it is not planned to install external insulation, then the supporting layer of the lathing is mounted immediately (perpendicular to the siding panels).

Warming and waterproofing

During the installation of the battens, external wall insulation can be performed. As a heater, a material with a vapor permeability higher than that of the wall material is selected... This point is very important, otherwise water (condensation) will accumulate on the border of two materials, which will sooner or later cause the wall to collapse.

Therefore, the most preferable insulation will be slab mineral wool, which allows water vapor to pass through without hindrance. To cut off the ingress of moisture from the outside, a waterproofing layer should be installed... This is done at the stage of finishing the installation of the first layer of lathing and insulation.

A layer of a waterproof membrane is installed on top, a material that facilitates the removal of steam, but prevents moisture from entering from the outside. The counter grid is installed on top of the waterproofing layer.

Installation of the starter bar (J profiles)

The starter bar is the support for the bottom row of siding panels. To install it, you need to draw a horizontal line around the perimeter of the house, which is 40 mm higher than the estimated lower edge of the panels. Then the starting strip is applied with the upper edge to this line and fixed with self-tapping screws on the crate.

CAREFULLY!

Self-tapping screws should not be tightened tightly; a small gap should be left for the free movement of the bar. The self-tapping screw is screwed exactly in the middle of the elongated holes, so that during temperature shifts, the part can move and compensate for changes in dimensions without deforming the sheathing plane. This rule applies to all siding elements.

The next bar is not attached closely, but at a distance of 6 mm from the previous one to compensate for temperature strains.

How is siding fastened?

The siding panel is inserted with the lower edge into the lock of the starting strip, snaps into it, and the upper edge is fixed with self-tapping screws on the crate. The following panels are attached in a similar manner, the cladding "grows" from bottom to top (or sideways if vertical siding is selected).

Attention! In some cases, a top-down installation is used. It is believed that this option is less successful due to the possibility of rainwater penetration into the sub-seam space, but in practice no problems were found.

Installation of internal corner strips

The installation of the corners is carried out before the installation of the main panels, immediately after the fastening of the starting plate. The inner corner profile is attached with the lower edge at the level of the starting bar, the density of the screws is recommended 25-30 cm.

If the starter bar interferes with the positioning of the profile in the right place, nail strips should be cut from the corner profile to a length equal to the width of the starter profile plus the temperature gap.

If necessary, build up the corner strip, cut off the nail strip from the top by 30 mm and overlap the upper one over the lower one for proper water drainage. The size of the overlap is no more than 25 mm in order to maintain the temperature gap.

It is possible to create a corner joint with a J-bar, which is cheaper than a corner joint. This can be done with one strip, when it is tightly adjacent to the outer edge of the row of panels on one side, and the panels on the other side are installed in it.

The second option is to use two strips on each side of the corner, and there is a danger of water penetrating into the gap between the strips, since the absolute tightness of the joint cannot be achieved here, in addition, temperature gaps are necessary in any case.

Installation of external corner strips

Outside corner strips are installed in a similar manner, correcting for the inverse geometry of the element. The same technique for overlapping, required temperature gaps, etc. As a replacement for a complex corner, you can use two J-bars, located in the corners tightly to each other.

For outer corners, a simpler design is possible - with a simple corner that is installed over the panels. In this case, the siding is installed first without a corner, so that the joint of the planes is the most accurate, after which a simple corner is screwed on top. Often this option turns out to be the most preferable, since it is easier and for unprepared people this option seems to be optimal.

How to lengthen siding strips

If necessary, the end connection of the panels can be used H-profile or simple overlapping. The size of the overlap is 25 cm, for its implementation it is necessary to cut off from one panel the nail bar from above and part of the lock from the bottom to the length of the overlap and plus a temperature gap of 12 mm. Overlapping joining is best done randomly - in each row of panels in different places, so as not to weaken the entire canvas.

Installation of H-profile

The installation of the H-profile is carried out simultaneously with the installation of the corner strips (immediately after the starting strip). The same rules apply as for corner profiles - trimming nail strips for joints and mandatory temperature gaps. The use of the H-profile makes the longitudinal joining of panels more aesthetically pleasing, and allows you to immediately cut the required number of panels to length for a given area.

Installation of ordinary siding panels

Starts immediately after the start strip and corner and H-profiles are installed. Siding can be immediately cut to the desired length, without forgetting the need to leave temperature gaps, which for panels are 12 mm.

The starting strip has a lock, the same as for the panels. The first lower strip is inserted into it until it is fully connected and fastened along the upper nail strip with self-tapping screws.

The usual rules for siding apply - the self-tapping screw is screwed exactly in the middle of the oblong hole and loosely fixes the part, leaving the opportunity for free play. The next panel is attached in the same way. The process of creating a plane itself is simple and does not require special knowledge, except for those indicated.

Every 3 rows, a horizontal check is made and measures are taken to eliminate distortions if they are found.

Loose connections or other reasons can disrupt the correct position of the panels, causing slight distortions. If you do not carry out constant monitoring, then by the end of the installation changes can become noticeable and the whole work will be ruined. Therefore, periodic control and correction of the accuracy of the location of the lamellae to the horizontal is needed.

How to get around windows and doorways with siding

They are made out in almost the same ways, the only difference is in the presence of rain tides on the window openings. The way of strapping the opening depends on the depth of planting of the block in the plane of the wall.

For the design of openings that are in the same plane with the wall, platbands are used... They have grooves for the end placement of the siding, so the platbands are installed before installing the main panels.

If the openings are up to 20 cm deep, then a J-bar is used. Its installation is carried out on top of the finished panels; the finishing strip must be fixed to the window frame around the perimeter.

At great depths of openings, sets of the same siding panels are used, cut taking into account the temperature gap along the length of the slope and recruited according to the usual principle. A universal strip is installed along the perimeter of the window block, and a complex corner is mounted on the outer joint of the planes. In this case, the installation of extensions is also required before the installation of the main panels.

To finish the slopes, it is required to first install the crate on them, which is usually done during the construction of the main one, since the openings need to be insulated along with the plane of the walls. Regardless of the angle of the slope, the lathing of the openings is installed perpendicular to the main one, and the angle is provided by the position of the finishing or universal planks.

Laying the finishing siding strip

The finishing strip forms the top (ending) edge of the last panel and fixes its position. installation is carried out almost simultaneously with the top panel. The plank is fixed strictly horizontally at the desired height, the nail plank on the last panel is cut off.

The panel with a cut edge, on which the locking profile remains, is inserted into the slot of the finishing strip and snapped into it. The shape of the profiles is such that the required gap is observed, the lock securely fixes the panel in the plane of the canvas.

NOTE!

For the correct installation of the finishing strip and the last panel, an accurate calculation made in advance is necessary, or the possibility of some level discrepancy if a separate gable trim is planned.

Installing siding on gables

Either in the same way as the facade, or using a vertical arrangement of siding panels in contrast to the main canvas. A fairly accurate length and angle trim will be required.

A special feature of the design is the need to provide a temperature gap in combination with trimming the panels at an angle, at which errors are possible, therefore, careful measurements will be required. It is recommended that you start your installation from the rear of the house so that you have some experience before moving to the front.

Useful video

In this video you will learn how siding is installed:

Conclusion

Do-it-yourself siding installation is a simple and quite affordable procedure that you can do yourself. The main condition is the looseness of the fastening of parts and the observance of temperature gaps, all other subtleties are comprehended intuitively along the way. To successfully complete the work, you should abandon haste and act deliberately, then the result will become a source of pride for the owner of the house.

In contact with

In order to quickly and at minimal cost to repair the facade of the building, we choose a material, the installation of which can be performed without the involvement of specialists. This material is siding. Its varieties and how to work with it will be discussed further.

In favor of choosing such a material for wall cladding, its positive characteristics speak.

1. Environmental safety: siding is chemically resistant, does not emit substances harmful to health and the environment.
2. Fire safety. Wood siding is treated with fire retardants, vinyl siding does not support combustion.
3. Resistant to fungi, mold and decay. Antiseptic treatment increases the life of wood siding.
4. Siding is not afraid of temperature changes, does not deform, provided that the installation is performed correctly.
5. Aesthetic appeal: the siding successfully imitates a wooden frame. After cladding, the walls become perfectly flat. Behind the panels, you can hide electrical cables, water pipes. A wide palette of colors and shades allows you to choose a material that is combined with other objects located in the backyard.

Manufacturers offer siding in various colors and sizes.

What is needed for wall cladding with siding

There are the following types of siding:

• vinyl;
• metal;
• fiber cement;
• wood.

All of the above materials are attached to the battens, mounted from wooden battens or metal profiles.

Tip: it is better to choose a metal profile for the lathing device. It allows you to create a stronger and more durable frame. Such a profile is easier to attach to the wall.

If the choice of material for the lathing is in favor of wooden slats, it is necessary to exclude wood with the following defects:

• cyanosis;
• curvature;
• traces of damage by insects;
• rottenness;
• material delamination and cracks.

Before installation, wooden slats are treated with an antiseptic.

In order to hide all the irregularities of the base, the crate is fixed at some distance from it using suspensions.

Installation of the lathing

Lathing from metal profiles

The technology provides for the following actions.

1. We prepare the base. It is necessary to dismantle façade elements that have become unusable: wooden shutters, platbands, falling off plaster and facing tiles. This is necessary so that the lathing is attached to a solid base.
2. We apply markings on the base at the points of attachment of the vertical elements of the lathing.
3. Suspensions are attached to the base using dowel-nails or self-tapping screws (selected depending on the base material).
4. Installation of vertical guides after marking. Self-tapping screws are used to screw vertical wooden slats or metal profiles to the suspensions. We mount the crate with an installation step of 0.5 m.

Scheme of lathing from wooden slats

The guides are installed subject to the rules.

1. Installation is started from the corner - on both sides at a distance of 50-70 mm. This is necessary for the installation of the corner profile.
2. The position of the guides is controlled by the level: it must be strictly vertical. Small (up to 3-5 degrees) deviations to the sides are allowed.
3. A guide is also installed near the corners of window and door openings, as well as arches and niches.
4. For gutters, we additionally install guides.

Fastening the rail on hangers

Here is a video on how walls are insulated.

Installation of a starter profile for siding installation

In order to fix the bottom panels, we mount the j-profiles (starting). They should be located strictly horizontally, since the quality of the wall surface depends on this. The work is carried out in stages.

The starting profile is attached to the vertical rails

1. Determine the horizontal from which the installation of the panels will begin. From it we set aside 5 cm upwards and put a mark with a marker on the vertical guide.
2. With the help of the building level, we make the appropriate marks at all corners of the house.
3. Pull the cord between the marks and make marks around the entire perimeter of the house.
4. On the vertical guides, mark the position of the corner connecting profiles. To do this, temporarily install the profile in the place of attachment and outline its borders with a marker.
5. We put aside 6 millimeters from each border of the corner profiles to the sides or cut off the nail strips (they are located at the edges).
6. Adhering to the indicated boundaries, we attach the starting profile to the vertical elements of the frame.

Installation of starting and corner profiles

Attention: in order to avoid deformation of the profiles as a result of temperature differences, a gap of 10 mm must be left between adjacent elements.

Installation of corner profiles

The work is done in the following order.

1. Determine the level of fastening of the roofing sheet (soffits). This is necessary to mark the upper border of the corner profiles.
2. Having stepped back from the line marked with a marker 3 mm, we install the corner profiles and fix them in the upper part to the guides with self-tapping screws. We mount the outer corner profiles so that their lower edges fit into the groove of the j-profiles.
3. Using a level or plumb line, we correct the position of the corner profiles: it should be strictly vertical. We screw the self-tapping screws into the nail strips of the profiles along their entire height. The distance between the screws is about 20 cm (but not more than 40 mm).
4. We lengthen the profiles if the height of the corners exceeds 3 m. To do this, we cut off the nail strips of the lower profile so that the upper profile overlaps it with an overlap of 25 mm. Trimming is done with metal scissors.

Extension of the corner profile

Tip: For economic reasons, a corner profile can be replaced by joining two j-profiles. Loss of tightness is eliminated using a roll of insulating material, which is glued in the corner.

We mount internal corner profiles by analogy with external elements. We screw in the self-tapping screws with a step of 20 mm and always in the upper and lower parts (at the edges).

How the openings are framed with siding

Openings in the same plane with the facade are made in accordance with the following technology.

1. Waterproofing material is laid.
2. We mount the frames of the openings using j-profiles.
3. We connect the profiles.

Opening decoration

In order for the corners of the openings to be decorated with high quality, we do the following.

1. On all sides of the upper profiles, we cut off the vertical sections so that there are horizontal sections (by the width of the profile).
2. We bend the horizontal sections down: it will close the hole in the lower profile and prevent the penetration of rain moisture.
3. We cut off the plastic sections on the side profiles so that they do not interfere with the docking with the platband or window frame.
4. We connect the profiles.

The connection of profiles with casing (window frame) in the lower part of the opening is performed in the same way.

It is allowed to finish the corners of openings and arches using the starting profile

If the openings are recessed into the facade, we use similar techniques when designing them. It is important that bendable bridges block the path of rain moisture to the inside of the cladding elements.

Advice: the slopes of windows, deepened by no more than 200 mm, are recommended to be decorated with window strips.

Siding installation technology

Rules for installing the first siding panel

Using the advice of siding cladding experts, we start with the wall cladding that is most hidden from view. This is necessary in order to learn how to fix the material correctly and to avoid further mistakes. We adhere to the following rules.

Installation diagram of the first panel

1. We insert the siding panel simultaneously into the groove of the corner and starting profiles. It is important that the panel between the panel does not rest against the grooves, but is fixed with a gap of 6 mm.
2. The size of the gap may vary depending on the ambient temperature: during summer installation 6 mm is sufficient, in winter a distance of at least 9 mm is required.

Continuation of siding installation

We mount the rest of the siding by analogy with the first panel. In doing so, we observe the following rules.

1. Periodically, using a level, we control the position of the panels: it should be strictly horizontal.
2. We cut off excess areas when facing a wall with openings.
3. We use a punch and hooks to securely connect the panels.
4. We install the finishing plank at the bottom of the opening, which lies in the same plane with the wall.

We install the panels from the bottom up, controlling their horizontality.

How to splice siding panels

In the event that it is necessary to use siding trims for cladding less critical walls, we build up the panels in any of the following ways.

Splicing options for siding panels

1. We use the H-profile. We select panels of the same length in such a way as to join them with a common connecting H-profile. When installing the siding panels in the groove, we leave a minimum expansion gap of 6 mm.
2. We connect with an overlap. To do this, it is necessary to cut off the fragments of the panels (fastening frames and locks) so that when the two elements are joined, an overlap of 25 mm is formed.

It is advisable to splicate panels on an inconspicuous section of the wall.

Installation of siding panels under the roof

Installation of siding under the roof is associated with the problem of decorating the edge of the panel cut to the width. The top panel is mounted according to the technology described below.

Installation of the top panel under the roof

1. We fasten the j-profile with the groove downwards to the roofing lining horizontally.
2. We measure the distance from the keyway of the reinforced penultimate panel to the top of the j-profile.
3. Subtract 2 mm from the result.
4. According to the final size, we cut off the top panel from the side of the lock connection.
5. To keep the trimmed edge of the siding well in the groove of the j-profile, cut it in several places and bend it about 10 mm at a right angle. Such hooks should be every 200 mm along the entire length of the panel.
6. We install the prepared panel into the lock of the lower element and, bending slightly, we put it into the upper profile.

Facing the pediment with siding

We mount the pediment according to the following algorithm.

1. We fix the starting or j-profile around the perimeter. If the filing is also decorated with siding or vinyl soffits, the starter or j-profile can be replaced with an angled one at the top of the gable.
2. Cutting the left and right edges of the panels at an angle corresponding to the angle of the roof slopes, we mount them using the above technology. We install self-tapping screws in the middle of the slots. We comply with the rule governing the size of the expansion gaps.
3. We fix the top of the last (top) panel with a self-tapping screw directly through the material. We close the screw cap with a plastic cap, matched to the color.

Panel installation scheme when finishing the pediment

General rules for installing siding

Regardless of what type of siding and what material it is made of, it is recommended to adhere to certain rules during installation.

1. Self-tapping screws are screwed in the center of the holes of the fastening strips.
2. Self-tapping screws are not tightened so as not to deform the panel and preserve the possibility of compensating for thermal expansion.
3. The panels are mounted from bottom to top.
4. An expansion gap is left between adjacent elements to prevent thermal deformations.
5. For fastening siding made of wood, zinc-coated hardware is used. This is necessary to avoid wood decay.
6. Wall cladding of newly constructed buildings is carried out after they have shrunk.

We bring to your attention a visual demonstration of the technological process - a video on how to install vinyl siding, using the advice of a specialist.

Even a beginner can sheathe a house with siding. It is enough to know the procedure and some of the nuances of installation. If you decide to choose vinyl siding as a facing material, do-it-yourself installation is more than simple.

PVC siding is flexible and pliable, which reduces the likelihood of panel damage and injury. A step-by-step guide will allow you to sheathe the facade of the house with sading, even without construction experience.

Based on the material below, you will learn how to properly attach the siding to the wall.

For greater clarity, each stage is accompanied by photos, diagrams, drawings and videos.

Please note that these installation instructions are for vinyl siding, the installation of which is different from the installation of metal siding.

• Knife. Who does not know what to cut vinyl siding: vinyl is a soft material, it can be easily cut with a sharp knife. To do this, you need to mark the groove on the panel. Bend-unbend the strip several times. As a result, it will break along the intended cut.

• Electric jigsaw. Used instead of a knife. It gives a more beautiful cut, and also allows you to speed up the process of preparing panels to size.

• Drill or hammer drill. With their help, it is convenient to enlarge the holes for fastening hardware or punch new ones.

• Screwdriver. For twisting hardware.
• Building level. The laser is very convenient to use.
• Roulette.

Good to know. If you are going to use a grinder to cut siding panels, this is permissible. However, keep in mind that at high speeds, the sheet cut will begin to heat up and melt. This will deform it. Therefore, use a low power grinder.

1. When starting to clad your home with vinyl siding, always keep in mind that this material has a high coefficient of linear expansion. This means that a gap of 5-7 mm must be maintained between the starter planks, as well as between the rows and planks. And if the installation is carried out at a temperature below -10 ° C (which, in general, is unacceptable from the point of view of common sense, but for domestic practice it is quite usual), then the gaps should be at least 10 mm.


2. There should be a gap between the working surface of the material and the fasteners. Below we will talk about this in more detail.


3. Vinyl siding should be allowed to rest for at least a couple of hours at outdoor temperatures prior to installation.


4. In no case should the siding be screwed through with a self-tapping screw. This approach to installation can lead to cracking of the sheet of material. But, if such a need arose, fix the sheet not where the nail holes were punched, you must first drill a hole for the hardware, and only then fix the sheet or additional element.

Despite the fact that fastening siding with self-tapping screws is most common in domestic practice, you can still use fasteners such as nails and staples.

Installation of vinyl siding - instructions

Generally, the installation of vinyl siding can be divided into several stages:

1. fixing the starting bar;
2. installation of vertical strips (corners and H-connector);
3. installation of siding panels;
4. framing window and doorways with siding;
5. installation of vinyl siding around the arch;
6. arrangement of protruding elements;
7. fastening of finishing strips;
8. installation of soffit;
9. gable trim.

Good to know: Attaching siding to metal or wooden lathing, or even to the base of the wall surface, always starts from the bottom. This allows each subsequent panel to be placed above the previous one. Thus, additional protection of the surface or insulation from moisture is achieved.

1. Setting the starting bar (starting strip)

Installation of siding panels always takes place using a starter bar. It is attached along the perimeter of the building (or that part of it that is planned to be sheathed).

The starting strip is closed by a series of panels, so there are no special requirements for it. It can be joined from scraps or a strip of a different color can be used.

The starting bar sets the tone for all work. It is better to spend more time leveling it than trying to correct even the smallest bias during installation work.

Before you start fixing it, you need to designate the place of the future fixing.

To do this, drive a nail (screw in a self-tapping screw) at the lowest level of the wall.

The distance from the nail to the ground should be equal to the width of the starting bar.

Next, pull the thread between the nails. Check the correct thread tension with a builder's level. Next, using chalk, draw a line between the nails along the thread. It will mark the line of the starting strip anchorage.

The more often you use the level, the more correct and smooth the installation of the siding will be.

However, at least every third row of ordinary siding strips should be checked for deviations from the level.

Then fix the bar.

How to properly attach vinyl siding to the wall

When installing vinyl elements, you need to properly mount the fasteners. Namely, it is important to adhere to the following conditions:

- the distance between two adjacent self-tapping screws should be about 250-300 mm.

You need to twist the hardware or hammer in a nail strictly perpendicular to the plane.

- fix the screws only in the middle of the nail hole, which has an oval shape, it is this trick that allows the panel to slide when expanding. The correct way is shown in the figure. - the self-tapping screw is not completely twisted. A gap of 1 mm must be maintained between the surface of the material and the screw head.

The required clearance is achieved in two ways.

First, you can attach a coin.

Secondly, you can twist it all the way, and then loosen it by one turn. There should always be a gap of 5-7 mm between the two starting strips located next to each other.

The gap compensates for linear expansion of the material.

The installation of the strip at the corners is not complete. Since a special corner strip is used to arrange the corner. Using staples as fasteners, you must also maintain a gap of 1 mm.

Good to know. Some builders recommend that you immediately install a starter bar on window and door blocks. However, this is not worth doing, because the need for it does not always arise. The dimensions of the window are not so ideal that the ordinary siding strips during installation were just at the level of the strip.

2. Fastening of vertical strips - corners and H-connector

2.1 Fastening the strips

The corners are set before starting the installation of the main strips, and it is in them that the ordinary panels are started.

The vinyl corner mount also has its own characteristics:

First, the angle is set 5-7 mm without touching the ground. When heated, the corner will expand vertically and the gap left will prevent it from deforming.

Secondly, it is important to properly fix the screws. As you can see in the picture, the corner is attached starting from the upper nail hole. Moreover, the self-tapping screw is twisted into its upper part. On this self-tapping screw (nail), the whole corner seems to hang in the air.

Thus, the material can only expand downward and sideways.

The rest and the last self-tapping screw are twisted in the same way as the starting strip - clearly in the middle of the nail hole.

Third, the bottom edges of the corner are trimmed to the width of the starting bar. This avoids deformation of the material when heated. It will look as shown in the figure.

Selected cases in vinyl siding installation technology

The length of the corner plank is up to 4 meters. But you may need to lengthen the corner.

Mount the lower corner strip, then cut off the fastening points on the sides from the upper one and “put” on the lower one, leaving a 5 mm gap for compression under the influence of temperature.

The overlap is 20-25 mm.

The figure shows how to lengthen the bar

Good to know:

• The joints at the corners and the H-connector must be at the same level. This will make the appearance of the house more harmonious.
• The upper corner strip is mounted on the lower one, and not vice versa. This will protect the corner from water infiltration.

Since the corners of vinyl siding are flexible, they can be used to trim obtuse and sharp corners of a building.

For an obtuse angle - the profile must be pressed down, for an acute angle - narrowed.

For the inner corner, the procedure is the same.

Considering the cost of the corners, you can save on them if you mount two J-strips in their place. The installation process is shown in the figure.

2.4. Installation of H-profile

This type of work also does not take much time and effort. It is important here to correctly calculate the location of the plank. Fastening is carried out in the same way as corners.

• first, the lower bar is mounted, and then the upper one;
• if lengthening is necessary, pieces of 5-7 mm are cut with perforation (to compensate for the expansion);
• overlap the profiles.

Keep in mind that the starter bars should be adjacent to the H-connector, not the other way around.

Good to know. You can do without installing an H-shaped profile in this case, the siding strips will overlap.

The photo shows what the wall should look like before starting the installation of ordinary siding panels.

3. Installation of ordinary siding panels

Let's make a reservation right away that you can fix ordinary panels in a circle, or you can finish one wall. From the point of view of siding installation technology, this does not matter.

Installation takes place in several steps:

3.1. The first strip of siding is inserted into the vertical grooves of the corner or H-shaped profile and secured with a self-tapping screw exactly in the center of the nail holes.

In this case, hardware is attached from the center of the panel to the edges, towards the vertical strips.

Good to know.
To make it more convenient to insert the strip, it must be slightly bent outward.

As already mentioned, the siding panel is wound into the outer or inner corners. In the event that you are using a budget mounting option, you can equip the inner panel in the ways shown in the figure.

When doing this, do not forget to leave a gap for expansion.

3.2. The siding panel must be lowered to the starting strip and snapped into place. To do this, you need the lane lock to catch on the starting bar. Do not under any circumstances "pull out" the panel. Since in this case the radius of the panel will be extended and the locks will be deformed. How to install the siding panel correctly - see the picture.

Good to know.
If, after the lock of the next strip snaps into the lock of the previous one, the panel can be moved horizontally, then its installation was done according to the rules.

3.3. After the panel is installed, it can be secured with hardware.

3.4. All the remaining rows, with the exception of the last one, are performed in the same sequence.

If you need to connect the panels to each other, and you have not provided for the H-shaped profile or you do not like the way it looks, you can do it as follows.

• First, remove the padlock from the panel.
• Second, place two sheets of paper on top of each other.
• Thirdly, put the trimmed part of the sheet under the lock.

The photo shows how it looks in practice.

For your information:

• Some manufacturers produce panels without locking at the end of the siding sheet.
• The panels at the joints are not sealed.
• The mounting line can be flat, or it can be offset.

4. Installation of near-window siding strips near window and door openings

There are two possible ways of positioning openings relative to the wall surface.

• in one plane. In this case, the openings are simply sheathed around the perimeter with J-profiles and the siding panel is already started in them.


• with the arrangement of the slope. With this arrangement, the panels are installed in the manner shown in the figure.

In practice, it looks like the one shown in the photo.

It is also not difficult to bring the panel into such a structure. Since vinyl is flexible enough, the panel just flexes slightly and fits into the J-profile.

The main thing here is to cut the siding strip correctly.

Docking lugs are holes in a strip of material intended for fastening hardware. They are made with a punch.

5. Installation of vinyl siding around the arch

If your house has openings that end in an arch, this is not a problem for installing plastic siding.

Finishing the arch with vinyl siding differs from the finishing of a conventional opening only in the way of mounting the J-strip.

The flexible J-bar greatly simplifies the finishing of arched openings. For this, notches are made on the profile and the smaller the radius, the more often the notches should be made.

The process is clearly shown in the photo.

Installation of siding around protruding objects occurs by cutting the strip and overlapping it.

7. Installation of finishing strips and the last row of siding panels

It is done like this - first, the finish bar is fixed.

Then the distance from the last row is measured from it. This is the amount that the last siding panel should match.

The strip is bent horizontally in an arc and is inserted into the lock and the finish bar.

8. Installation of siding soffit

8.1. With a wind bar

If the frontal board is small, it can be closed with a wind bar. To do this, a finishing strip is mounted on the upper edge of the frontal board, and the wind strip is attached so that its upper part is fixed with a finishing profile.

Then a J-profile is attached to the wall and a soffit is installed between it and the wind bar.

In this case, the soffit can be installed in one of two ways, shown in the diagram.

In this way, installation is carried out if the frontal board is wider than the wind bar.

In this case, the outer corner is attached to the edge of the frontal board, and the J-profile is on both sides of it at the required distance. A soffit of the required size is cut out and inserted between one of the corner parts and the J-bar.

The finish on the second side is similar.

It is not recommended to mount a dark-colored soffit in this way, since on the frontal strip it is highly susceptible to fading.

9. Installation of the gable with siding

The installation of the gable is no different from the installation of ordinary siding strips. It is done as follows:

9.1. installation of the starting strip. It occurs in full accordance with the rules described above.

Good to know:
All the remnants of the J-profile that you have accumulated during your work can be used to finish the gable. All the same, it is not visible under the roofing material.

This work is done as shown in the photo.

To do this, the J-planks must be placed on top of each other and the front part must be cut diagonally. Do not forget about the gap.

9.5. Preparation of planks.

In order to cut the siding strip correctly, you need to measure the angle of inclination of the roof slope.

This can be done using a simple technique: put a piece of a strip of material to the surface of the pediment, and the whole panel in a level with a J-profile.

Then you need to draw a sharpened pencil over the overlap of the sheets. The result will be a precise tilt angle. Next, you should remove a short piece and cut off the siding along a straight line.

The process is presented more clearly in the drawing above.

Cut out the corner of the last siding panel and feed it into the J-profile.

This is an exceptional case in the installation of vinyl siding, in which a piece of hardware or a nail is hammered through the panel.

Installation of vinyl siding - video instruction

Conclusion

In this article, we tried to reveal all the features of installing vinyl siding. We hope now you know how to mount the facade siding with your own hands, as well as the components for it.