Any door carries not only a utilitarian load, but also performs a decorative function. A paneled door successfully combines both of these elements, being both a reliable and an attractive structural element.

A paneled door combines elements of not only decor, but also the reliability of structural elements.

Varieties of paneled doors

Since paneled doors are very reliable, provide excellent sound insulation and perfectly complement the decor of the room, they are always popular, especially as interior doors. A distinctive feature of a paneled door is the presence of a rather massive frame, as well as inserts called panels. Panels can be made of various materials:

• one of the most beautiful options is glass inserts, which can be made using transparent or frosted glass, but stained glass looks especially attractive;
• plywood or chipboard are often used as panels; this is a fairly light and budget option for panels;
• solid wood can be used to make inserts, which makes the door more expensive, but also more durable.

Panels are fastened both with the groove-thorn system, and with the help of a special glazing bead, which makes it easy to replace the inserts if necessary.

Advantages of a self-made paneled door

Having decided to install a paneled door in the room, it is not necessary to use its purchased version. If you have a little skill and desire, you can make such a door yourself. If made, then at a price they will turn out to be much cheaper than a similar option sold in a store.

Self-made paneled doors will eliminate the need to adjust them to the size of the doorway, since they are initially made according to certain standards.

Due to the peculiarities of manufacturing, self-made doors are less subject to destruction due to the effects of temperature and humidity changes. Among other things, you can independently make exclusive doors at a more than affordable price.

Preparatory stage for the manufacture of a paneled door

To make a paneled door with your own hands, in addition to desire and certain skills in working with wood, you will need a relatively small set of tools:

• tape measure and pencil;
• hacksaw for wood;
• sandpaper with coarse and fine grain;
• chisel;
• screwdriver.

As materials required for making a door, you need to stock up on the following:

• to create a box, thick boards are needed, the width of which should be up to fifty millimeters, you can use a special bar, in total you need three pieces: two for making the vertical part and one for the upper transverse part;
• to create a frame, rather strong bars and slats are needed, reliability depends on their strength;
• for the manufacture of panels, you need to purchase chipboard, plywood or glass;
• in some cases, you need to purchase a glazing bead to fix the panels, in particular, this is necessary if the panels are made of glass;
• for fastening you need glue and self-tapping screws;
• you need to stock up on fittings (door hinges, handles, locks);
• do not forget about finishing materials (paint, varnish, various specialized coatings), which are selected depending on the operating conditions and the design concept.

Having decided to make a paneled door with your own hands, you first need to decide on the materials from which it will be made.

For the manufacture of a door frame and frame, it is better to choose durable types of wood that are quite resistant to changes in temperature and humidity. It is the right material that will help make the door resistant to various external influences and reliable. As a rule, it is better to stop the choice on durable types of wood, such as oak or ash.

Pine is the most inexpensive and available species, which is resistant to temperature and humidity extremes, therefore it is often chosen as a material for making doors. For the optimal choice of a particular wood, you can consult with a consultant in the store.

For the manufacture of panels, you can use plywood or chipboard, they allow you to make the structure lightweight and inexpensive. If desired, for the manufacture of panels, you can buy a more expensive solid wood, this will make the door stronger and more solid. Glass inserts are often used for interior paneled doors. Glass can be transparent, frosted, corrugated or patterned. Options with stained glass inserts look very nice.

Real stained glass is quite expensive, so glass painting is sometimes used, usually double-sided, to create the full stained glass effect.

Manufacturing of a paneled door

The initial stage of door installation is the manufacture and installation of a doorway, or door frame. In order for the door to look attractive and not spoil the design of the room, it is important to make the door frame correctly and evenly. It should be free from distortions and differences in width.

After installing the door frame, you can start making the paneled door itself with your own hands.

Initially, you need to draw several sketches of the future paneled door on paper, taking into account personal preferences and common sense in terms of the complexity of execution. A paneled door can be quite complex in execution, therefore, it is best for novice craftsmen to start with making a door with six panels. The selected sketch is detailed and marked with all dimensions. Based on the selected sketch, the necessary materials are purchased for the manufacture of the door.

In order to make a door with your own hands, first of all, a frame is made - the basis of the structure, which is responsible for its strength and on which the panels are fixed. The more reliably the frame is made, the more reliable the paneled door itself will be.

Using a tape measure, the size of the doorway is measured. To design a door, you need to take into account that in the end it should be four to six millimeters less than the width of the door frame, which must be left for a normal fit. In accordance with the obtained dimensions, the basis for the future door is made from the timber purchased for the manufacture of the frame. For this, the required length is marked with a pencil on the bar, which must be even and without mechanical damage. Then, using a hacksaw, the excess part is sawn off on the tree. If possible, you can cut the beams to the desired size in the store in order to facilitate and speed up the process of making the door. Such sawing will be of higher quality, since the use of modern equipment allows you to get an optimal result. Thus, two lateral main posts are obtained, two crossbars that are fixed at the bottom and top of the structure, as well as internal crossbars and rails that serve as bridges.

For tight fastening of parts to each other, grooves and spikes are made in the right places, which should ideally fit in size. For additional fastening, the parts are coated with special wood glue, which connects them more tightly. Special chamfers are made in the places of fastening of future panels.

After making the frame of the future door, you can start making panels. If wood is used for the panels that will be inserted into the door, then it is better to use an array of boards to avoid the need to create a prefabricated chamfer. A finished part is cut out of the array by the dimensions of the chamfer, which will decorate the door, and special cuts are made along its edges, which allow the panel to be securely fixed with a chamfer.

If the production of panels from a single piece of solid wood is impossible, but there is a desire to use wood, then panels are made from pieces of wood, which are fastened to each other using a system of spikes and grooves, additionally coated with wood glue to give greater strength. After the panel, assembled from pieces of wood, is ready, cuts are made along its edges for fastening with a chamfer.

Panels made of wood can be additionally decorated by processing with special tools, but for this you need to have certain skills.

If the panels are made of chipboard or plywood, then they are cut from the selected material in accordance with the required dimensions.

Glass inserts are also cut, if necessary, to the size of the door, or initially, in the manufacture of lintels and strips, they proceed from the available dimensions of the glass inserts.

If glass with a painting imitating a stained-glass window is used as an insert, then such a painting should be done in advance, before fixing it to the door.

Glass panels are fixed with glazing beads, which makes it quite easy to change the glass if necessary.

After the door is made, processed and coated with paint or varnish, all the necessary fittings are attached to it. After that, the door is installed in the opening.

Nothing adorns cabinet furniture more than doors with embossed panels. The profiled edges of the uprights and crossbars further emphasize the contours of the infill, while the counter-profiled joints ensure strength and durability. You can easily form the elements of such a connection, consisting of a profile on the inner edges of the frame and the corresponding counter-profile at the ends of the beams using a set of special cutters.

Explore the anatomy of the door

Before making your first cut, familiarize yourself with a few terms related to paneled structures. A panel is a panel that is inserted into the grooves of a frame consisting of vertical posts, between which horizontal beams are installed. The profile cutter selects the tongue at the edges of the posts and beams and at the same time forms a decorative profile (photo A). The counter-profile cutter makes a short spike (ridge) that goes into the tongue and forms a cutout that exactly matches the relief formed by the profile cutter. Despite the fact that one of the surfaces to be bonded is formed by end fibers, the joint has good strength, since it has a significant bonding area.

Calculate the dimensions carefully first

Overhead doors usually protrude 9-10 mm beyond the edges of the opening around the entire perimeter, therefore, if you choose this style, then the finished door should be 18-20 mm higher and wider than the opening. Mortise doors completely enter the opening flush with the front side of the case, and around them it is necessary to leave uniform gaps of 2-3 mm wide. Therefore, the height and width of such a door should be 4-6 mm less than the height and width of the opening. Alina of the racks is usually equal to the height of the door, and the length of the rails depends on the width of the racks and the set of cutters used (see the figure "How to calculate the length of the rails"). If the profile cutter selects a 9 mm deep tongue, this dimension must be added twice (18 mm) to accommodate the cleats at both ends of the bar.

Prepare material for frame parts

In order for the joints to be tight, all the beams and posts must be of the same thickness. After processing the boards on a thicknessing machine, saw them lengthwise into blanks of the required width and give the uprights and crossbars to the required length. Save some cuttings for making test connections. Then determine which sides of the parts will be front, and mark them (photo B).

Quick tip! For beams with a length of 150 mm or less, it is better to first mill the profile on a long workpiece, and then cut it into separate beams of the required length.

How to mill a profile

Having secured the router to the table, insert the profile cutter into the collet and adjust its overhang by placing the scrap from the blanks for the frame parts next to it. Position the cutter so that a complete profile contour is formed on the front side (facing down), while leaving enough material on the other side of the tongue (photo C).

After adjusting and fixing the overhang, use a ruler to align the longitudinal stop of the milling table with the milling cutter bearing (photo D). Fasten the combs on the stop and the table, tightly pressing the workpieces and ensuring uniform processing (photo E). Mill the profile on all rungs and posts, as well as on a trial cut, with which you will then adjust the overhang of the second cutter.

Learn to mill the counter profile correctly

Set the posts aside and replace the profile cutter with a counter profile cutter. Using the trim on which the profile is formed, adjust the overhang of the cutter (photo F). Then, align the rip fence with the bearing in the same way as in the previous step.

The counter profile cutter cuts material across the grain, so to feed the trial trim at right angles to the stop, use the board trim pusher to help prevent chipping (photo G). Make a pass and adjust the overhang of the cutter more precisely (photo H).

When the front sides of both parts of the test connection coincide in the same plane, mill a counter-profile at both ends of all rungs, placing them on the milling table with the marks down.

Determine the dimensions of the panel

If the panel is made of plywood or wood panel, its dimensions should be 2 mm less than the distance between the bottom of the opposite grooves in the door frame.

This will allow the frame joints to be tightly pulled together and provide free space for the shield to expand. To determine the width of the panel, you just need to subtract 2 mm from the length of the crossbar. And to find out the length of the panel, assemble the door frame dry, measure the distance between the grooves of the crossbars and reduce it by 2 mm.

Door assembly

After assembling the door together with the panel dry, make sure that all parts are made correctly and that the joints are tight. Disassemble the door, apply glue to the counter-profile of the rungs on one side and connect them to the rack. Insert the panel into place without gluing it, then glue the second post to the crossbeams and tighten the frame with clamps (photo I).

How to make an embossed panel

Flat panels made of plywood or board panels are also suitable for doors with counter-profile joints, but embossed panels (sometimes called volumetric), such as shown in the photo in this article, look much more interesting. If you have a powerful router with a speed controller, use a horizontal router to create relief panels. Thanks to its large mass, it easily copes with the work, removing material with carbide cutters, leaving a clean and smooth surface. These cutters are available with different profile options, and they

perform better at relatively low rotational speeds (typically no more than 10,000 rpm). For best results, process the edges of the panel in a few shallow passes as shown in the photo. First, mill the end edges of the panel and then the longitudinal edges.

Do-it-yourself paneled doors with counter-profile connections

Profile cutters allow you to choose one of several profiles - from the traditional rounding with a shoulder ("marigold"), typical for projects in the "country" style, to a more sophisticated "heel".

THE BEST PARTIES MUST BE OUTSIDE

To orient the parts correctly when milling connection elements, mark the face of the uprights and rungs.

INSTALL LONGITUDINAL STAND

A steel ruler pressed against both parts of the rip fence should barely touch the cutter bearing. When rotating the cutter by hand, make sure that it does not touch the stop.

ADJUSTING THE PROFILE CUTTER PROFILE

Place the scrap from the frame parts next to it and lift the cutter so that the profile is fully formed, and at least 5-6 mm of material remains above the tongue.

THE FEED SHOULD BE EQUAL

Pressing the workpieces to the table with the marked edge, mill the profile on all posts and crossbeams. Feed them smoothly at the same speed to get a smooth surface.

CONFIGURE THE BUTTER CUTTER

Align the bottom edge of the upper incisor with the top edge of the tongue so that the cleat in the bar is flush with the tongue.

REMOVE EXTRA LITTLE

Adjust the cutter overhang and stop position for the first shallow cut. Start at two end edges to reduce chipping, and finish off all four edges before sliding the stop back for the next pass.

GRADUALLY APPROACHING THE RESULT

When the stop is flush with the bearing, lift the cutter in several steps, making small passes until the desired edge thickness is achieved.

THE PUSHER SERVES MULTIPLE PURPOSES

To form a counter-profile at the end of the crossbar, press the end of the trial trim against the longitudinal stop and the rectangular board trim that serves as a pusher. The backing board also helps prevent chipping.

CHANGE MILL SETTINGS

If after a test pass there is excess material on the upper edge of the tenon, lower the cutter. But you need to raise it if you see excess material on the bottom edge.

ASSEMBLY WITHOUT PROBLEMS

Correctly made counter-profiled joints close tightly, requiring only a little clamping pressure, and help to achieve squareness during assembly.

So that the panel does not rattle

If the panel is too small, or its thickness is less than the width of the tongue in the frame details, the door is likely to rattle and knock. If you hear a knocking sound during dry assembly, insert spacers into the tongue to fill the gap.

The design of many modern spaces has one thing in common. They are interior doors of a special sample, which have inserts into the canvas, called panels. The abundance of options in shape and material makes the production of paneled doors interesting and exciting. Next, let's take a closer look at the features of the process, materials and tools.

Structurally, the door is a frame structure, the timber strapping of which is filled with inserts of various materials. Among the most common of them are the following:

• Plywood;
• Glass;
• Massive panel from a wooden board.

For the installation and fixing of inserts into the door structure in the upright (vertical) and transverse (horizontal) bars, it is planned to manufacture longitudinal grooves of the appropriate width and depth. In this case, the elements of filling the door leaf can be installed directly during the production and assembly of the door on glue or fixed on one side with curly glazing beads, fixed with nails without hats.

If it is not difficult to make inserts into the door leaf made of glass and sheet wood materials with your own hands, then the production of a panel panel is a rather complicated process and requires special tools and devices.

The choice of material for the panel

Quality material is one of the most important aspects of work

More than twenty different types of wood are used in modern carpentry production. Each of them has certain properties, aesthetic and technological features. For the manufacture of doors, both soft wood species and hard ones are used. The first group includes pine, linden, aspen. The second - oak, beech, mahogany.

Softwood doors are most common in modern inexpensive interiors. Pine trees are installed in residential and office buildings, linden and aspen trees, which are distinguished by high moisture resistance, are installed in baths, saunas, steam rooms. Their production is not difficult, their low strength does not require frequent sharpening and adjustment of the cutting tool. The cost of pine wood materials allows you to make relatively inexpensive products that are available to every ordinary buyer, including with your own hands.

Hardwood doors have a higher cost due to the high hardness of the material and the complexity of the processing process. Oak or beech lumber is significantly more expensive than softwood lumber. The cost of mahogany wood exceeds them at the expense of additional shipping costs. These aspects classify doors from an array of valuable woods as elite products available to a small circle of buyers.

We make a panel for the panel. Material preparation

A classic solid wood panel is a glued board made of edged boards of a certain thickness. You can do it yourself, provided you have experience with wood and the necessary manual and mechanical tools. We start the manufacturing process with the choice of lumber.

It is better to use fresh, well-dried wood for the production of doors. Its technological humidity should be 8-12%. Only in this case it is possible to guarantee the absence of mechanical stresses in the finished panel, which can ultimately lead to the formation of cracks and the destruction of the panel.

We saw boards with an allowance of at least 10 cm to the required length of the board. This can be done manually, on a circular or miter saw. After that, they must be carefully stitched along the faces and edges. You can do this stage of work with your own hands with a manual plane or jointer, but it is better to use mechanical devices - an electric plane or a jointer. After processing, the edges of the parts should be strictly perpendicular to the faces and have a rectilinear shape without depressions and humps.

The thicknesser is the ideal tool for preparing parts for subsequent gluing. They are one, two, and four-sided. The best and most expensive are the representatives of the latter group of instruments. After thicknessing, the edges will be perfect in shape and strictly parallel to each other.

Shield gluing technology

In order to make a high-quality wooden board with your own hands, you need good wood glue. Binder production in our country is well developed, in addition to this, there is a large selection of imported analogues. Check the quality of the available adhesive before use. To do this, they connect two unnecessary pieces of wood and check the strength of the connection under shock loading. A good cool seam must be able to withstand impacts. Possible destruction can only occur along the wood fibers.

To glue the shield, you will need clamping devices called clamps or clamps, which can be purchased ready-made or made by hand. Two types of them are used - screw and wedge. In the first, the squeezing of the parts to be glued occurs due to the rotation of the threaded screw, and in the second, due to the clogging of the wedge stop. Using any type, you can get a high quality connection.

Apply glue to the edges of the prepared boards and distribute it evenly with a brush or flat trowel. We lay the boards close to each other so that the edge with the glue of one part is in contact with the dry edge of the other. Next, we squeeze the shield until the glue is partially squeezed out of the seams and leave it until the glue is completely dry, usually for 12-24 hours.

After gluing, the finished canvas must be stitched with your own hands. The ideal flatness of the part will help to make a wide-format thickness gauge with a planing width of up to 600 mm. Alternatively, you can use an electric plane or belt sander to process the canvas.

Processing the edges of the shield. The easy way

A feature of the classic glued panel is radially beveled edges that smoothly turn into longitudinal ridges. During assembly, they are inserted into grooves of the appropriate shape and size, usually without glue. This must be done so that the wood can "breathe", slightly changing its size without the threat of destruction.

You can make radial bevels on the edges of the future panel with your own hands in several ways. The first, the simplest and most affordable, involves the use of a stop and a stationary circular saw. If you do not have a circular saw, you can fix the electric circular saw on the table.

The saw blade should protrude by 10-15 mm, no more. It is best to start with a 5mm lift and gradually increase it. The stop is installed perpendicular to the blade at its maximum lifting point at an angle of 60 ° to the plane of the disc. Moving the glued blade at the required angle to the direction of rotation, its edge will be cut along an arc of a circle, the diameter of which is equal to the diameter of the saw. Having previously practiced, you can make a completely high-quality door panel with your own hands.

After a fairly rough processing with a saw blade, you will need to properly grind the resulting bevel. To do this, you can use sandpaper glued to a mandrel of a suitable shape or a sander.

Processing the edges of the shield. The hard way

To obtain bevels of a more complex shape of high quality, the use of a milling machine will allow. There are special sets of cutters for making paneled doors with your own hands. A cutting tool for processing bevels is called a figurine cutter. This name comes from the name of the plane, which was used in the old days to make a panel with your own hands without a power tool.

Modern production does not involve extensive use of manual labor. Such operations are sought to be minimized by using various mechanisms and power tools. A milling machine with straight and reverse figurine cutters will allow you to make a curly edge of the shield and door bars. The high speed of rotation of the cutting tool allows you to obtain a minimum roughness of the processed surface, which reduces the time for subsequent grinding.

Application of panels

Furniture production involves the widespread use of panels in the manufacture of a large number of different products. They are installed in the doors of kitchen sets, cabinets, walls and cabinets. Even the wall panels used for decorating rooms are decorated with such complex details.

Currently, valuable wood species are increasingly used in the production of doors, which indicates an increase in the purchasing power of the population. At the same time, the possibility of renting a professional tool and the availability of oak and beech wood can allow any home craftsman to make original panels for themselves.

Panel Manufacturing: A Step-by-Step Guide

Internal doors are not only of functional importance, but also fully participate in interior design. With the expectation that they will last more than one decade, their choice and the quality of the installation should be given the greatest attention.

Despite the huge variety, paneled doors are especially popular among the people. What is it, and how is this design better than the shield option? How is the paneled door production and glazing carried out? On these issues, we will try to provide comprehensive information, which will be supported by the video in this article.

Getting acquainted with the proposals of companies that present their products to the consumer's judgment, you can see how huge the range of interior doors can be. Products differ not only in the material of manufacture and design, but also in the options for the front finish, operational properties, and, of course, design features.

• How not to get lost in this abundance, and choose exactly what you need? To do this, you must, at a minimum, understand what a particular type of door looks like. By and large, the canvases of all interior doors are divided into two main groups. The first option is a panel board, or as it is also called, a blank canvas, which you can see in the photo below.

• The shield can be made of spliced ​​pine blocks, particle board or plywood, and veneered on top. Depending on the filling and quality of the topcoat, the price of the products also varies. Such doors look solid and serve for a long time. Their advantages also include the ease of installation of canvases and inserts of locks (see Installing a lock in an interior door: professional instructions).

The only thing that can be qualified as a minus is the solid weight, which usually provokes the canvas to sag. And the appearance of deaf smooth canvases is rather simple. The main emphasis in their design is placed on the natural texture of wood or veneer used in the manufacture of products.

Paneled canvases: features

Now let's consider what paneled doors are, which will be discussed in our article. They belong to the second group, which combines frame-panel structures. In them, only the frame is assembled from wooden blocks. It is filled with either glazing or small-format thyroid inserts, which are called panels.

• The use of inserts makes it possible to save the door leaf from the disadvantages inherent in panel board products. Due to the panels, the weight of the product and its cost are reduced. But the most important thing is that the appearance of the canvases is significantly improved, which at the same time receive an interesting relief surface.

• In this case, the beauty of the door depends more on the number and shape of the panels than on the natural qualities of the wood. By the way, the manufacture of paneled doors can do without it altogether. Sheet MDF is an excellent and inexpensive material from which the vast majority of interior door blocks are made today.
• The sheets used in production can have a laminated, veneered or painted surface. However, doors can also be made of a simple material, without front finishing - the so-called “paintable” option. It is these doors that are most often installed in high-rise apartments that are commissioned with a rough finish.

The most interesting thing is that it is not easy to make paneled doors with your own hands, but it is quite possible. To do this, you just need to have the appropriate tool, the skills to work with it, and the necessary information, which we will gladly share with you.

Web binding

As already mentioned, the paneled canvas consists of a frame (frame, strapping) - who likes what definition, as well as inserts attached to it. The frame assumes all loads, so it must be made so that the web is provided with transverse and longitudinal rigidity, resistance to mechanical stress.

• Therefore, the production of paneled doors involves the use of well-dried wood, or MDF, for this purpose. The frame consists of at least five bars, which fully provides it with spatial rigidity. Two of them are racks, two are horizontal elements (lower and upper tsars), and one crossbar (middle), which separates the lower third of the canvas, or divides it in half.

One of the options for assembling panel products

Note! One of the options for frame-panel doors are side structures. In them, the tsars are not only strapping elements, but also filling. That is, from them the canvas is completely typed. Drawers in paneled doors are only frame elements (lining), in which grooves are provided for connecting with panels.

• The docking of these parts is done only with a tenon method or with dowels, which protects the product from thermal deformations. It may seem to you that glueless connections are unreliable, but believe me, this is not at all the case. The panel itself does not bear any loads, but performs only a decorative role - and yet it is quite durable, since it has a thickness of at least 18 mm.

Since the panel is a profile product, which can have not only a rectangular, but also a curved configuration, it is clear that the complexity of the door design depends on the number of inserts. This cannot but affect the cost of the product: budget products have a maximum of one or two panels, in expensive versions of interior doors, there may be six, or even eight. Well, the designs of entrance doors often provide for twice as many of them.

Front finishing: what to prefer

We figured out the design of frame-panel doors, now we will pay attention to such an issue as front finishing. Which option is still better: painting, laminating, or veneering? With doors made of solid wood, everything is simple - their surface is sanded, sometimes tinted, and then varnished.

• The use in the production of fiberboard and other wood derivatives implies a more solid surface finish, which, as a rule, imitates the wood pattern. This can only be done by laminating or veneering the material. In the first case, a decorative coating called laminate is used for this purpose.
• In short, this is paper with a printed pattern of wood, impregnated with resins and glued to a backing. The woody sheet material is driven through a special machine on which a roll of laminate is installed. Gluing is carried out under heat and pressure, after which MDF sheets are cut into blanks.

• As for the veneer, it is no longer paper, but a thin layer of wood, which is removed from a rounded log. Only valuable wood species are used for veneer production. This material can be either rolled or sheet. But the sheets are usually small, since their width corresponds to the circumference of the log.
• Veneering - this is the correct name for the process of veneering chipboard, and then you will understand why. First, sheets with the same pattern are selected, stacked with a blade, and the edges are cut evenly. For pasting sheets of large format, pieces of veneer are literally stitched and glued together.
• The material intended for finishing the outer side of the door leaf has a multi-layer structure. It is glued together from three veneer sheets. The one that goes to the outside is adjusted according to the pattern so that it is a mirror image.
• The middle sheet is coated with glue on both sides, and the outer elements are glued to it, passing through a hot press. It turns out a kind of three-layer plywood, which is why this process is called "veneering". At the final stage, the material is sanded and varnished, and then the door leaf is already revetted with it.

• By the way, veneered doors do not have to be made of chipboard or MDF, which can only be called environmentally friendly. It can be natural wood, only a cheaper pine, revetted, for example, with oak veneer.

Modern equipment used in factories for the production of doors allows you to connect the veneer to the base very reliably, so you can be sure that nothing will come off over time. Accidental scratches do not threaten such a coating either, so we can confidently say that veneered doors are the best option in terms of price and quality.

Organization of the production process

Panel-type door leaves are assembled from spliced ​​pine bars, and this not only makes the door heavier, but also increases material consumption. The use of such elements as panels allows to simplify and reduce the cost of the process as much as possible, therefore manufacturers, especially beginners, rely on panel doors.

So:

• If you decide to start the production of doors as a small business, then the information that we offer in this article will be a good help for you. Of course, household carpentry tools alone are indispensable.

• At a minimum, you need a circular saw, a milling cutter, and a panel saw, the main functions of which are the formation of a perfectly even cut. In appearance, it resembles a sawmill, but there the lumber moves freely, and here it is rigidly fixed relative to the cutting surfaces.
• Such equipment is equipped with fast-reacting mechanisms, and when working with it, it is important not to forget about safety precautions. You should not start working on the machine, or use the manual version of the same milling cutter or miter saw, if you have not studied its device, operating rules, and are not convinced of its serviceability.
• The manufacturer's instruction is the main document that needs to be studied, which is called: "from cover to cover." If you are going to set up production and have purchased machines, only those people who have been trained and have a document certifying this fact can be allowed to work with them.

When it comes to making one or several doors for yourself, you can try to get by with a workbench, a miter box, a hacksaw and a chisel, but without a router, even a manual one, you cannot make a beautiful panel. By the way, you can also stick laminate or veneer on the surface by hand, and if you wish, you can easily find a training video.

How the canvas is collected

So, we have already said that the frame of a paneled door is assembled from at least five bars, and the gaps between them are filled with panels.

In general, the number of inserts depends on the intermediate cross members or struts. They seem to draw the plane of the canvas into rectangles, and the more there are, the smaller the panels will be.

• This also increases the number of plug-in elements. In the example below, you can see that the doors have not one centerpiece, but two, which made it possible to provide an additional insert. As you can see, both glazed and non-glazed doors acquire a more elegant appearance.

Paneled doors

• The production of panels is started only after all the blanks for the external strapping of the frame are made, and the frame itself is partially assembled. As a matter of fact, first of all, one rack is connected with an empty and an upper profile. In order to avoid deviations in size, the midships are cut after measurement, in fact.
• First, a block of the required length is cut off, and a spike is cut at its end so that it can be installed in the frame groove. Next, they make a fitting: inserting the centerpiece into the frame, make a pencil mark at the level, and only then cut a thorn on the second end. The more panels there are on the canvas, the more midships will have to be installed.

Horizontal elements always correspond in length to the width of the door. If you need to install intermediate racks, then their length is equal to the distance between the two transverse mullions.

The default assembly order is always this: first, the larger elements are put, and then the smaller ones. After the inside of the canvas is filled, it is closed with a second post part.

How panels are made

The dimensions of the future panels are also measured after the fact - after the horizontal mullions are installed on the canvas frame. If several identical panels are provided on the canvas, then it is best to cut off the template strip and orient yourself when measuring on it.

• Cutting it off, you need to reduce the value by 5-6 mm in order to allow the rail to move freely in the frame, without resting on the strapping. However, when moving, the template strip should not come out of the grooves. Thus, with the thermal expansion of the finished web, its parts can move freely, and deformation can be avoided.
• Now you need to make a panel template. It is cut out of a piece of hardboard, or plywood, tried on in the cell of the canvas frame, and only then they start making the panel itself. Having a well-adjusted template will simplify the process of cutting out panels, reduce the time it would take for multiple measurements and adjustments. And the more complex the shape of the panels, the more valuable the template.

• After the blank for the panel has been cut, the most crucial moment comes. After all, this is a profile product that makes up all the beauty of a paneled door. This very profile is called a figurine field, and in order to cut it, you need a special nozzle on the milling cutter. The options for processing the ends of this part can be different, after which the edges will have a different profile.

The essence of the processing is to turn the thick rectangular ends of the part into graceful ridges, called figarees, which will easily fit into the grooves of the strapping. In the process of milling, the volumetric part is removed from the ends of the workpiece, as a result of which the edges are thinned.

They are sanded down, the panel is inserted into the frame, and then pressed with kalevka, similar to the glazing bead. In conclusion, dust is removed from the product, the canvas is primed and proceeds to the finishing.

Hidden interior doors are now in vogue. They look simple and elegant. You can see how it looks here: https://berezha.com.ua/skryityie-dveri/ Well, if you decide to install paneled doors, you don't have to buy them: you can make them yourself. Why is a homemade door better than a factory one?

Moisture is absorbed into untreated wood, and panels and pins isolated from the external environment gradually dry out. Within a year, they will easily mix in their grooves, and the strength of the panels and frame fastening is compromised.

Sometimes it is easier and cheaper to make new doors than to renovate old ones.

Making doors with your own hands is available even for a novice master: to create them, it is enough to follow the instructions.

How to make a door with your own hands?

1. Determine the dimensions of the finished canvas. To do this, we measure the door frame. The finished door should be 4 mm less than the width of the frame. Along the edges, you need to leave 2 mm in contact.
2. We apply the markings to the hardboard. Cut out two blanks for the door leaf. It must be remembered: the higher the quality of the fiberboard, the less labor will be spent on the manufacture and subsequent finishing of the door, the longer and more reliable the door itself will turn out.

We make the frame ourselves

For the frame, it is better to take boards:

1. Conifers: They are less prone to rotting.
2. Well dried: so that the size does not change when dry.

If there are knots or minor damage on the boards, it's okay: they won't affect the quality of the box.

Useful video on the topic

The process of making a trim for a door in detail, see this video:

We carefully measure the height and width of the doorway, according to its dimensions we make a frame from a bar of 50 mm. The width of the frame must match the width of the opening. Important: gaps must be left between the finished door and the ends of the opening, this should be taken into account when assembling the box. The free space is filled with tow (foam) and covered with a platband.

It is easier for a novice craftsman to make a door from six panels. To mount them you will need:

1. Cut the two main side posts 80x50 or 100x70 in width and thickness.
2. Two horizontal bars of the same width and thickness to reinforce the bottom and top.
3. Jumper rail.
4. Four median crossbars.

We cut out a spike in the lintel, cut grooves in the side racks. Their optimal dimensions: length 8-10 cm, width and depth - 1.5 cm. Spikes and grooves are required to connect vertical and horizontal parts.

The ends of the crossbars are also ground under the spikes, and chamfers are cut on their sidewalls. Panels will be inserted here.

Do-it-yourself panels

The easiest way is to make them from an array of boards, and it is cheaper to assemble them in parts, from several boards. For this, spikes and grooves are cut out in the blanks (in mirror order). The depth of the latter is 1.5 centimeters. If the panel is assembled from very thin boards, then instead of cutting the thorn, you can use a connecting insert that will hold the parts together (this will require glue). As soon as the glue dries, we make oblique cuts along the perimeter of the panel so that the strip fits tightly into the chamfers.

Useful video on the topic

For a more detailed examination of the process, we recommend a 19-minute video, where a professional craftsman will tell you how to make a panel for a door:

After that, we cut through figarets on the plane: the very decorative elements that make the paneled door, assembled in the workshop on our own, unique. The resulting product is carefully polished, revealing the beauty of the tree.

Assembling the structure

We completely assemble the door without using any glue yet. We adjust all the details, sharpen the spikes, check the joints. We trim the ends, remove all unnecessary, in a word, we bring the door that has not yet been glued into its proper form. The panels must be aligned with the racks, fastened with wooden pins. The more carefully this work is done, the more aesthetic and durable the door will turn out to be.

When all the details are in place, the door is dismantled. An inexperienced craftsman can number parts so as not to mix them up during the final assembly.

All parts are coated with glue. The door is reassembled. It's time to dry. It is necessary to dry the door while lying down and under uniform pressure. Once the glue is dry, the door can be used as intended.