For many years of unbearable work, the engineers of the Izhevsk Mechanical Plant have suffered four basic models of air rifles for a wide range of consumers. This is a classic IZH-38, target IZH-60, rechargeable IZH-61 and enhanced MP-512... There was also IZH22, but this is a separate conversation, you can write a separate article about it. Rifle IZH-38 has faithfully served many generations of pneumatics enthusiasts, but now it is probably the least bought rifle. She has no precision IZH-60, no multi-charge IZH-61 no strength MP-512... In principle, all of them were made quite soundly, only now, during the transition to new "space technologies", there appeared bullshit with plastic bodies and barrels with extremely indistinct cutting. But even in ancient times, "fine" plastic stocks appeared. They did not rot, did not crack and, most importantly, were very cheap. And few people think that an air rifle is still a rifled weapon and for accurate shooting you need a comfortable and, most importantly, a hard butt. Owners are particularly affected IZH-60.61 and MP-512... At the butt IZH-60.61 there is a disgusting feature to bend when reloading the rifle and for most users it is short, and the stock MP-512 not only short, but also has the wrong angle of inclination of the butt pad and strives to jump off the shoulder when fired. Still, all the lodges are somewhat lightweight for accurate shooting from rifled weapons. If small parties IZH-38 and MP-512 are produced with wooden stocks (although, in my personal opinion, they are even more inconvenient and impractical than plastic), then people who prefer IZH-60.61, completely deprived of the opportunity to hold solid and pleasant to the touch wood. I have devoted quite a lot of time to the development and manufacture of stocks for pneumatic weapons. Below are the pictures IZH-38, MP-512 and IZH-60.61 with stocks of my design and manufacture.

There is already quite a lot of information on the modernization of pneumatics in the internet, something is nonsense, something is interesting. In principle, the only new thing I can offer is to increase the muzzle velocity in IZH-60.61 this is a way to increase the length of the mainspring. After the purchase IZH-60.61 I immediately remove the part blocking the cocking lever, there is no benefit from it, it only interferes. After removing this piece of iron, we will see that it is possible to cut deeper the place where the mainspring rests 12 mm deep, which is 4 turns on a 2.8mm wire spring (spring from MR ki), plus the installation of an additional internal spring, the guide / weighting agent can be made from an 8mm bar with a washer made from a yellow ruble of 92nd year, it is screwed to the bar with an M4 screw. Of course, it is better to supplement these operations with a rammer seal (if it is poisoning). Now mine IZH-61 gives the initial velocity to the bullet Umarex 0.5 gram 175 m / s(measurement by a ballistic pendulum).

But all this is lyrics, and now I decided to create an article for novice DIYers, because not every city has masters who sculpt boxes for any brand of pneumatic weapons at affordable prices. An article with photographs taken during the technical process, which will greatly facilitate understanding of what is happening.

Description of technology.

So you've decided to make a stock. I offer a description for making a stock on MP-512(for IZH technology will not change much). We determine what we want to get at the output, for example, the described bed is licked off with Diana-54, to get a paper template, it is easy to print a photo from the Internet, then increase it to the required size on a copier, having at least some image it is already easier to model something for yourself. The most common problem is determining the stock length. This is done in an elementary way: take the rifle so that the trigger falls on the first bend of the index finger, bend your arm at the elbow, and look where the butt plate lies, for sure it will not reach the elbow bend (standard plastic is about 15mm shorter for a person of average build and height 175cm), the required length is for the butt plate to fit tightly into the fold. After determining the shape and size and making the template, we proceed to the choice of wood.

To begin with, we choose a bar with dimensions 45x160x700 without knots and other wood defects, it is better to give preference to beech or oak, this wood is easier to find (if you doubt your abilities and it is scary to spoil a hard-to-find blank, a prototype can also be made from pine (I have IZH61 has been serving for a year and a half), I do not advise birch, although it is suitable in terms of strength parameters, it is very difficult to grind.

Well, let's move on directly to the production itself: we will transfer the drawing from the sketch to the board, holes with a diameter of 13-15 mm are drilled in places of sharp curvatures, it is better to cut straight sections on the bed either on a circular saw or a hand-held electric saw, example in photo 1. Be careful at the places of kinks, if you cut on a circular saw, remember that the disc picks up 100-150 mm more from the bottom than from the top! After completing this operation, we take a jigsaw in our hands and cut out all the bent lines, if we decided to make the trigger guard wooden, then first cut it inside it, and then outside, an example in photo 2.

On the forend from above we mark the central line, from it to the right and to the left we draw two parallel lines denoting the mechanism, between them 29mm, mark the length of the mechanism 315mm, cut for cocking the barrel 16mm wide (in this sample the forend is long, therefore the use of a standard rear sight is impossible (wide) , move it to the bar for optics) photo 4. The subsequent operation will require the use of a hand router. Having set the cutter of photo 5, we go through the right and left of the forend, getting perfect lines (this can be done with a chisel). Then we mark the places where the CM box will be located (20mm wide and 100mm long), the hole for the trigger, fastening clamps, cocking thrust, mark the point under the forend to which the barrel will reach when cocking, using a drill with a drill and a chisel, choose a place for the mechanism, it is easier to cut the hole under the barrel with a knife

So, I want a new bed on the Murka ... What for? My dear is koroko, the retraction of the butt plate down is small, the handle is thin and short, I would like a cheek under the optics. And I really want a pistol grip, because my hand gets tired when shooting with my own. Resolved! I buy myself a kimono, that is, I make a new bed. After spending the evening with pencil and paper, I realized that I am not a designer, an artist is even worse, so to hell with aesthetics, how will it turn out.
Step one. From a pile of sketches, one is selected

2. According to tabular calculations, a drawing is made
life-size on a piece of wallpaper according to the sketch

3. Foam model made

4. Testing PVA glue (gluing pieces of plywood and breaking after a day's exposure)

5. Purchase of another PVA. Testing. Approval (break in wood, not glue)

6. Transferring the drawing to plywood, taking into account the technological protrusions for subsequent screed when gluing. Sawing with an electric jigsaw

External and internal blanks are distinguished by the presence and absence of a sample for iron.

7. Drilling process holes and pre-assembly with two screws. Drilling the rest of the technological holes. Control assembly.
Disassembly and sanding of glued surfaces

8. Gluing. We smear one part with glue, put the next one on it and press it with a pressure-rotating movement. Repeat with the rest of the details. Is the package gone? Not scary. A pair of bolts will act as guides and align the parts. Install and tighten the rest of the bolts, clamps and other compression devices

We present a master class on making a bed SV- 98 from ACW. All methods and techniques of work are optimized for the "enthusiast", only simple tools of the "home craftsman" will be used jigsaw, hand router, belt sander, hand drill, rasp and chisel. You will learn: how to cut and assemble a slab under a bed of air veneer; how to protect the forend from splitting and "drifting"; how to get the exact shape of the cross-sections; how to achieve maximum compliance with the combat prototype.

So, our task is to make a stock with a precise geometry for an airsoft model of a SV- 98 with skeletal butt.

In the original, only high-quality aviation plywood is used, glued to SFZh resin, brand BS- 1 ... Such plywood is 2 times lighter than ordinary birch (FC, FSF), at the same time it is very strong, and is weakly susceptible to deformation when the humidity changes. Only the highest quality birch veneer is used in its manufacture. Choosing this kind of plywood.

Drawings in AutoCAD received, you can cut sheets. Forend thickness - 50 mm, thickest plywood BS- 1 on sale - 20 mm, so you will have to glue a slab of 3 sheets. We make a rough marking, adding 1 cm to the length and height, for further precise processing after gluing the board. To optimize the technological process, we will make 2 beds, in time - this is the same as one, I take into account the time for changing the tool and fixing in a vice and clamps. We need 3 blanks of 20 mm per 1 bed. There are 6 parts in total.

Such plywood, heavily impregnated with resin, does not cut well, I recommend using only high-quality Bosh jigsaw consumables, or a band saw at high speeds. On the Internet there are opinions that the plywood box SV- 98 will surely lead over time that this is a bobble of Izhmash, and it is correct to make a lodgment made of plastic. I cannot agree with this opinion, with proper assembly and high-quality impregnation with special compounds, the lodgement is protected from atmospheric conditions, and the aircraft itself, when glued, is impregnated with resin so that it can hardly be called a wood material. Plywood of this thickness cannot be broken, and its significant viscosity dampens loads well when fired.

For history buffs, let me remind you that the ancient Romans used large rectangular shields (scutum, scutum) made precisely of plywood (ash on skin glue). Plastic is used in the West in the false business to reduce the cost and accelerate production, the molding machine churns out 300 spoons per day. A cheap, uniform product. By the way, plastics are also susceptible to temperature deformations, and they do not tolerate cold very well. In addition, such a bed is absolutely unsuitable for repairing in the field (you can only wrap it with tape), and a plywood box, even broken in half, will be repaired by a savvy partisan with a penknife and fish glue in one evening. Finally, the plywood is “warm”, pleasant to the shooter, and lighter than the ABS stock on an aluminum frame.

However, in order to calm the fearful thermal deformations, we will apply a special method of gluing the forend "into a box" at 90 degrees. This will also protect the forend from delamination. To do this, shorten the central part of the plate to the point of the edge of the magazine nest and glue lamellas 40 by 20 mm in opposite layers.

We begin to glue the plate, part 2 to the third. Use only high-quality wood adhesives with a water resistance class of at least D 3 ... Epoxy, polyurethane, aliphatic resin. In this case, we glue on Titebond 3, press - concrete slab 17 kg. Exposure 12 hours.

So the slabs are glued together. You can start rough sawing out the shape, cutting off excess thickness with a chisel. We start with the butt. First, at the point of transition from the stock to the fore-end, at the point of minimum thickness, we make a groove of 8 mm with a milling cutter on both sides, and I get a stock thickness of 42 mm.

Now we need to select the thickness of the plate, up to 51 mm for the forend and 42 for the butt. Such an operation is performed in a thicknesser and on a band saw, but we will take advantage of the peculiarities of the material and get by with one chisel. The thickness of one layer of veneer in aviaplywood is 1.48 mm, therefore, cutting off 3 layers on each side of the slab (the outer layer is polished, 0.6 mm), we obtain a forend thickness of 51 mm.

The method is shown for informational purposes only. With a 50mm forend, I usually remove 10mm (8 layers) from the center piece before gluing the board. On the butt, we also remove 3 layers each so that a "step" does not form, ctr. interferes with sawing with a jigsaw. A sharp chisel at the correct angle is cut off normally. Grinding LShM 80 grit.

We also grind the upper plane, for accurate marking with a square with reference to the trunk line in the future.

Now you can cut out the rough contour with a tolerance of 4 mm, for further processing with a rasp. Next, cut out the holes for the fingers with a feather drill at high speeds.

Now we mill the grooves on the fore-end using a parallel stop and a groove semicircular cutter Ф15, depth-6 mm. The parallel stop ensures the same distance from the barrel on both sides of the 2 spoons. Such a cheap household router has a parallel stop and a copying ring in the kit, you can also make a parallel stop yourself by taking the M bar 8 ... We mark only the beginning and end of the groove.

Also, with the same cutter, we cut out a dollop for planting a barrel of 24 mm, that is, +2 mm wide to what is already there (a slot on the central part of the plate 20 mm), we do not change the depth to the level of the beginning of the handle (rear cut of the receiver), 6 mm should come exactly to this point.

Now we are preparing to cut out the skeletal butt, with a straight slot cutter we cut a 12 mm groove on both sides in the line of the butt hole, and also remove the thickness at the transition of the handle to the butt. The upper beam of the butt, on the left side, vanishes by rounding towards the top. You can perform this milling by screwing the edge of the router base through the technical hole to the support bar, and moving the router in a circle. Fix the sole to the upper edge of the cheek pad, its thickness will be 40 mm, so the channel of the self-tapping screw will be cut off.

We cut the edges of the handle at 45 degrees, now you can try on the spoon to your hand. Log. Well, it's not our business to criticize the ergonomic solutions of Izhmash, our task is to match the combat prototype. It's time to make a hole in the butt. We start by drilling the corners of the hole with a feather drill, then we cut it out with a jigsaw. We subtract 3 mm from the net size of the hole, for further finishing with a rasp, because any jigsaw has some oblique cut. The butt has a special belt fastening element, a 12 mm stand. It is correct to make it by milling according to a template with a copying sleeve (available in a set of many household routers), or an overrunning milling cutter, but I will make it free milling, for speed. Semicircular groove cutter.

Now, when the rough sawing and milling of the butt has been completed, we no longer need the support layers (on which the tool rested in the process of work), you can cut them off with a chisel until the correct thickness of the butt is obtained - 40, 37, 24. So far, we will roughly cut off the places of smooth descents in 3 steps. Also, we will correct a little with a jigsaw in an upright position.

So, ahead of the last stage of roughing work, it is necessary to carefully grind the lower surface of the forearm with the LSHM, and ensure an angle of 90 degrees to the side surfaces. Also remove the excess material to the correct forend height. Careful sanding is necessary at this stage as the surface will serve as a support for the bearing of the concave molding cutter. After grinding, we overtake the forend with a molding concave cutter, removing a semicircular chamfer. We slightly correct the shape of the windows for the fingers with a groove cutter.

Finishing work. Let's start finishing with a rasp. This is the most time-consuming stage of work, but it is not very difficult if you take into account two rules: do not sharpen "towards" the plywood layers (it can chip) and, when leveling, sharpen in the direction of 45 degrees to the layers, with a small angle.

First, we will process the butt so that you can cut off the cheek piece. The photo of the original shows that the right side of the butt has a pattern of 9 semilunar stripes, dark and light. What does it mean? Such stripes are obtained by cutting plywood layers at a low angle, the darker ones are perpendicular to the direction of light. If we achieve the same pattern on the product, then the geometry of the butt is perfect, and without any drawings. (But, of course, only if we are using laminate, and exactly the same as in the original.) Start at the highest point on the edge of the butt, work out the correct semicircle, always keeping the rasp at the same angle. The stripes of the layers "creep" into the correct position. Add 1 mm to the dimensions of the stripes of the drawing for further grinding.

This method of "catching in layers" is very useful for the "enthusiast". When assembling the GOL-sniper () stock, it was he who helped to give the forend the correct narrowing up and down by 2 mm, which is very difficult to notice in the drawings, to take into account in the development.

Finally, the handle. Here it is better to navigate "by hand", lies - does not lie. A glove can be worn if the fighter is using one. In the recesses, we use a cone for a drill. This is a budgetary, neat way, and it is correct to use sloping chisels and high-quality cranberries (Pfeil, Kirschen 1, 5 tr each piece), but an inexperienced master with a chisel can sink too deeply. Therefore, the rasp. It will take a whole day to process one lodge.

Long grinding ahead P 80 P 120 P 200 , manually. I use a strip of belt sander for coarse sanding. It is convenient to sand rounded surfaces by stretching the belt with two fingers. Fine sanding - 120 paper folded in three.

Let's digress to the cheeks. Its shape is simple, the only thing is that you need to chop off the excess thickness with a chisel, to the pure thickness of the butt. The photo suggests (using the "layers" method) that the cheek piece has a narrowing to the front and up. Let's execute it with a grinder, round the edges with a rasp, and you can start installing the adjusting screw sleeves on Poxipol or another quick-setting epoxy adhesive (for example, "bison" in a syringe). The sleeves will be M 8 (outer f10), we drill with a 10, 5 mm drill so that there is space for the glue.

In this case, steel ceiling anchors are used, it is necessary to cut 3 mm from the expanding edge and remove the pin so that the cheek pad adjusting screw can go through the bushings if the cheek pad is set to the minimum height. We cut the insert under the cheek pad out of plexiglass, and grind it for painting. Slots for inserts allow you to quickly insert it into place.

Now you can cut a hole in the strap post and the grooves for the cheek pads. Everything is usual here, we drill 10, 5 mm, cut with a jigsaw. The cheek pads should freely enter and move in the grooves, realizing the right-left cheek pad adjustment.

Before finishing sanding, you need to glue in the bushings for screwing on the carrying handle, bipod and front swivel. To the "enthusiast" I will recommend for high-quality drilling an irreplaceable thing in the household - a guide for the "Caliber" drill. It is cheap, but very convenient - not only for small jobs, but, for example, will help when adding holes for confirmation in a chipboard cabinet, and when drilling walls made of light materials with a spear, and when installing drywall.

We will apply an anti-slip texture to the handle - according to Izhmash, these are points in a simple edging. The edging can be cut with a jamb knife, and the points can be filled with the head of a finishing nail driven into a stick, there are no difficulties here. I will use a dremel with wood burrs. Izhmash does the same, blackening of the handle is necessary to hide the burn marks from the burr. This texture can then be applied with a comfortable elastomer rubber.

After the preparation of the seats, the bed was varnished in 3 layers with Sayerlack EZ Italian varnish 8050 .

Today I come to you with my next homemade... There is such a very interesting device in our universe as pneumatic rifle... So I wanted one for myself. Yes, he wanted so much that at least climb the wall. Found a man who had a real rarity izh38... Yes, the same gun that we all saw in the shooting gallery in childhood. You can see it in the photo:

On the right I am with this very brain rifle!

Great invention of mankind. But it was difficult to use it, there was a crack on the butt. Yes, and I'm a fallout lover, and in general I decided to make a butt as in the third fallout for a sniper rifle.

My advice to you, gentlemen. If you are going to make a butt then first, make a model of it from foam, paralon, and even from plasticine. The most important thing in the butt is when you take rifle in hand then you immediately see and rear sight and front sight... You don't need to look for it with your eyes and head movements, it should be right in front of you.

When this is sorted out, then you can proceed to the form itself. To begin with, we decide how it is easier for us to hold the rifle itself, by the native handle or by the pistol. then we select the size of the handle. Despite all my efforts, I made it a little thicker than necessary for my hand, it would be possible to grind off the excess.

Next, we figure out what we want to see on our rifle as butt, handles and forend... Personally, an approximate image went like a butt sniper rifle from the third fallout. And for the handle went the original handle from the SVD.

You can notice that I first circled the stock, then drew the handle from the SVD, and only then the stock from the sniper rifle itself. The work is long and tedious, you will have to redraw the sketch and cut the foam more than once. So be prepared for nerves and time.

Unfortunately, I have not survived the following photos, but I took a sheet of birch plywood 2 by 2 meters from a furniture store and took it home to saw.

I warn you right away: you will have to cut four layers of 10 mm each. We immediately cut the inner layer into the forend very thin, it is there that the rifle itself will lie. Also, do not forget about the holes for the mounting screws. I was lucky, they both came from below, and therefore it was enough for me to just grind the places of future screws in the right places with a file.

We glue everything with the most common PVA glue, which can be begged absolutely onto a ball in any carpentry workshop. Well, or in extreme cases, buy at a stationery store. The tree glues just excellently.

After gluing, I advise you to add stiffeners. We go to the grocery store and buy birch toothpicks from them. Toothpick diameter 2 mm. take a 2.1 drill and drill a dozen or so holes all over the butt. Especially in the places where the mechanism itself is attached to the butt. We smear the toothpicks with glue and insert them into the holes. we clean the remains with sandpaper. And in general, when fine-tuning, you will have to work hard with sandpaper, because all four parts will turn out to be similar, but certainly not the same. And the butt itself and the grip will need to be rounded.

This is what the first brainbuckle of this brainbuck looks like.

Next, a tough one awaits us sandpapering and filing. We just peel off the extra layer of plywood against all odds. An ordinary tree of this thickness might not have resisted and broke under the load. But just not plywood... She's really solid. Only if it is not pine, this should be followed first.

This is what the butt looks like after filing

Now we have to paint it. You can also varnish, it's all for an amateur. Everyone does what he likes best. As a result, I again breathed paint in my room (:
This is the most common automotive primer

Since there were no paints at hand at that time, I decided that it didn't look bad either:

And I used it for quite a long time. But as they say will of chance (:

Rifle in combination with me on the right

It seems to me that the white color suits her very much, (: especially considering how many times I re-cut the sample from the foam, then when I raise the rifle to the firing position, it does not cling to anything, it comfortably lies with the forearm in the second hand and the line of sight immediately before the eyes. With my rifle, I can aim before raising the rifle to my shoulder. I know where the front sight will be.

A huge request to you, dear users of the site, in no case use such devices to injure and just shoot at live targets. Equip a shooting range on the hillock, shoot at empty bottles and targets. Don't shoot living creatures. You can answer for living beings to the fullest extent of the law. Yes, and conscience will torment. And living people can kick in the neck and take the gun away. With an exclusive butt dear for you (: