Preparing walls for wallpapering occurs in stages. Thanks to this, you can not only bring the walls into a perfectly flat state, but also ensure tight adhesion of the wallpaper to the surface being pasted.

Experienced craftsmen know that before wallpapering it is important to properly prepare the walls. The quality of subsequent work performed depends on this circumstance. These actions do not require skills or knowledge; beginners can cope with them. However, you need to be patient and familiarize yourself with the recommendations below.

Why prepare the walls before gluing?

The main reasons why it is necessary to prepare the surface of the walls before wallpapering are as follows:

1. The quality of adhesion of panels to the surface of walls increases. If the surface to be pasted is porous, the wallpaper will not stay on it for a long enough time. The first step is to eliminate all flaws on the walls.
2. Surface roughness. Even the densest and thickest wall coverings will not hide visible irregularities (bumps, potholes).
3. Fungus or dampness may appear. Fungi and mold most often form on untreated surfaces. This circumstance in most cases concerns external walls that have direct contact with the street.
4. The connecting ability of materials improves, due to which the wallpaper on wall surfaces will last longer.

Step-by-step preparation of walls before gluing

There is a designated plan preparatory work before wallpapering, which includes:

1. Primary treatment of the surface to be glued. After removing the old coating, it is important to carry out initial processing. This includes removing nails and screws from the wall, as well as removing baseboards.
2. Repairing dents and holes. Chips, potholes and other defects are often observed on the surface to be pasted. It is extremely important to remove them before gluing. For these purposes, cement or putty is used.
3. Applying a primary primer will help glue the microparticles to the wall, after which you can begin plastering work. This rule should never be neglected.
4. Plastering the surface requires some skill, especially if the surface of the walls is curved. On initial stages Beacons are installed according to the level, after which a layer of plaster is applied, which is leveled with guides.
5. Re-priming is applied after completely dry plaster.
6. Putty is applied to the surface when, after plastering works The difference in wall unevenness is no more than 5 mm. In this case, 1 layer of putty is sufficient.
7. Sanding the wall surface is carried out at the final stage of work before gluing it. After sanding, the surface becomes perfectly smooth.

Preparing walls in a new building

Preparatory work in this case takes a certain amount of time, since the walls in a new building can be completely “bare”. Further preparatory work is divided into the following stages.

Firstly, a spray up to 9 mm thick is applied. The consistency should resemble thick sour cream, which will fill all the potholes, cracks and irregularities.

The consistency of the spray directly determines how exactly the plaster will lie on the walls. If the consistency is slightly thick, reminiscent of sour cream, the plaster will lie perfectly.

Secondly, the surface to be glued is primed. The thickness of this layer should not exceed 6 mm. However, if absolutely necessary, apply 2-3 layers of primer.

Thirdly, it is applied last layer plaster (covering), the thickness of which does not exceed 4 mm. This stand is easily rubbed, which will give the surface additional evenness.

How to cover the walls

Any defects on the surface to be glued are first covered with starting putty. After this, the surface is cleaned of additional contaminants and primed. By the way, you can blow out large defects using polyurethane foam. This material will cope with this task perfectly.

After drying starting putty It is necessary to sand the surface thoroughly to eliminate unevenness. Afterwards one or several layers of putty are applied.

Finishing with plaster yourself

To plaster the walls in your home, you must adhere to next plan work carried out:

1. A 5 mm layer of plaster is applied over the entire surface of the wall. All defects and cracks are covered. Before this, the wall surface is slightly moistened for greater adhesion to the plaster.
2. After the first layer of plaster has dried, a second one is applied. Special attention Care should be taken to level the finishing layer.
3. The last applied layer should not exceed 3-4 mm. It is used to grout the surface, which gives it perfect evenness.

The lining is done using a special spatula, with which the solution is taken from the prepared container and applied to the surface to be pasted. The plaster is spread with smooth movements using a trowel.

Requirements for a flat wall

The structure to be pasted is clean and uniform. To make sure of this, experienced builders glue a piece of tape to it. There should be no dust or grains left on it.

There should also be no oil stains, soot or rust on the surface. Otherwise, they will definitely appear on the wallpaper, which will negate all the work. Such stains can be covered with nitro varnish. Lime stains also need to be removed. Wallpaper glue is not absorbed by lime, which can cause the wallpaper to swell later.

How to properly prepare a brick wall after removing old wallpaper?

Preparatory work begins with applying a liquid plaster solution.

This is called a spray whose thickness should not exceed 3 mm. Then the base layer is applied plaster mortar(priming).

The solution has a fairly dense consistency, and its thickness reaches 6 mm.

If it is necessary to increase the thickness of the layer, then it is advisable to apply the primer in several layers. On last stage To prepare the walls, a third layer is applied, the so-called finishing layer (covering).

What is it processed with?

In damp rooms there is a very high probability of mold and mildew growing on the walls. In this case, they are treated with the following means:

1. Cover the surface with a solution of bleach. As a rule, 200 g of lime are diluted per 1 liter. water. Before gluing, all walls are treated with this solution, which will help prevent the formation of unwanted elements.
2. Fungicide treatment. Today you can purchase special adhesives that contain a fungicide. In this way, you can combine the process of wallpapering and wall treatment.

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Technology for finishing plastered brick walls

Preparatory work begins with the removal of old finishing material. For these purposes, you can use a spatula after moistening the wallpaper with water. It is very important to allow the finishing material to get wet so that it is easier to remove with a spatula.

After cleaning the brick walls, they are examined for chips, gouges and other defects. If any are present, they are sealed with plaster solution.

If areas old plaster raise any doubts in terms of reliability and strength, it is better to remove them using a special tool and apply a layer of new plaster.

Also, before gluing wallpaper, you need to thoroughly clean the surface of the walls from visible dirt and dust. If there are visual unevenness on the surface, the plaster is rubbed down with sandpaper.

On final stage work, the surface to be glued is primed, after which you can begin gluing the finishing material.

Preparation for gluing plasterboard surfaces

Before gluing the finishing material onto the drywall, it is advisable to cover it with a thin layer of putty and seal the visible seams between the sheets. You also need to hide the heads of the screws that were used when installing the drywall sheets. They are recessed and covered with mortar.

Removing old paint

To remove paint from a surface, you can use several proven methods:

1. The paint is dried with a construction hairdryer, after which it is special effort removed with a spatula. This method requires the use of a special respirator, since toxic substances are released when the paint is heated.
2. The painted surface can be cleaned using a grinder or a grinder. In this case, it is important to use eye protection.
3. Using a flush mixture is the most effective method. However, when working with chemically active substances, you need to be extremely careful.

Features of the preparation of plastered walls

If the walls are already plastered and have a fairly smooth surface, it is important to pay attention to the presence of stains. They may be the result of fungus, water leaks or rust.

Only after these unwanted stains have been eliminated can you begin wallpapering. Otherwise, these stains will certainly appear on the surface of the finishing material. Experienced builders recommend covering them with regular food foil.

The need for ground work

There are a number of reasons why it is imperative to prime the walls. These include:

1. By impregnating the surface with a primer, it will be possible to obtain a binding element. The surface to be pasted will be free of dust and will stop crumbling.
2. This will prevent the appearance of mold and mildew.
3. The primer will fill microcracks on the surface of the wall, making it much stronger.
4. The primer increases the level of adhesion.

The primer material is best applied to the surface to be glued using a roller. Hard-to-reach places can be treated with a brush. If the composition is absorbed by the wall, another 2-3 additional layers are applied.

When can you glue?

It is recommended to cover the walls decorative material only after completing all of the above work, which includes:

• eliminating visual elements on the surface;
• primer;
• plaster;
• putty.

Once the walls have a perfectly flat surface, you can begin gluing.

In addition to surface preparation, it is also necessary to observe temperature regime– it should be no lower than 5 degrees Celsius. Before gluing, you need to tightly close the windows and doors in the room to prevent drafts.

Preparing the surface for gluing is not too difficult task, as it may seem at first glance, but it must be done. The main thing for these works is to use high quality material, show attention and patience.

Useful video

For finishing Non-woven wallpaper is now very often used on walls. This type of finishing material is quite versatile. It is easy to install and operate, waterproof, durable and capable of hiding some small defects on the wall. The choice of non-woven wallpaper can be made for any room.

Using non-woven wallpaper for walls

However, despite the simple requirements for wall covering, on which non-woven wallpaper will be glued, it is still worth preparing it. Today we would like to tell you how to properly work on the walls before wallpapering.

Preparing the walls

Wallpapering is not the most difficult task, especially if it is non-woven wallpaper, but it definitely requires a lot of patience. One of the most important stages of work is preparation for gluing. Mistakes made at this stage will certainly lead to worse results in the future, therefore it is necessary to adhere to the technology and do everything correctly. Almost any person can cope with this task; it will be enough to gather strength and show some perseverance.

The main thing is not to overdo it dismantling works and stop in time

Removing wallpaper

First of all, we need to dismantle the old wallpaper; for this we will need a sharp spatula and a large amount of water. It is better to choose a small but sharp spatula so that it can easily cut deep into the wallpaper material. We will need a large spatula for the next plastering work.

• If there is old paper wallpaper on the surface of the walls, it will be difficult to remove it, use a large amount of water. Before removing, apply water and let it soak into the wallpaper before removing the old wallpaper.
• If they were previously glued, then most likely they will easily come off in whole sheets. However, in order to pour water behind the wallpaper, it is necessary to damage it, since it itself is waterproof.

To create a smooth and straight wall, after removing the wallpaper, we will need plaster. It is with its help that we will achieve a flat and smooth surface. Most often, wallpaper is torn off the walls along with parts of the plaster, since they were glued tightly.

Not the worst option for dismantling old paintings

Therefore, before gluing new non-woven wallpaper, or non-woven-based canvases, we need to create a smooth surface of the walls. To do this, we use plaster, you can choose the well-known German Rotband, or other options.

Plastering

Wall preparation begins from the very beginning, with careful plastering of the surface. The first layer is applied as a base layer, up to a centimeter or two thick. The consistency of the plaster should be such that it can get into all the recesses of the wall. Irregularities up to a centimeter high are buried in the solution, and the wall becomes smooth.

Before the next layer of putty, called the “finishing” layer, it is necessary to prime the entire surface of the walls. This is done to strengthen the inner layer of plaster. For primer, use a special composition that can be easily found in the store.

Second finishing layer The plaster is applied after the primer has dried, the thickness of this layer varies from 1-3mm. This thin layer of putty removes all minor wall defects. Usually at this stage builders recommend choosing Vetonit, but no matter what finishing putty you choose, the second thin layer will help create a surface close to ideal.

Work on leveling the walls in the room

After the second layer of plaster has dried, the surface is sanded and the remaining minor defects are removed. Now the walls should be white and smooth, it will be easy to glue wallpaper on them on any basis, all that remains is to resolve the issue with the soil.

We prime

The plaster walls are behind us, now we have to do it again, but this time before gluing non-woven wallpaper. Can be primed wallpaper glue, diluted in a more liquid consistency, or use a special composition, which is also sold in concentrate.

This time we are producing a primer to reduce the absorption of the wall surface. We need to ensure that the liquid from the glue is not immediately absorbed and the wall does not remain dry.

Anyone can cope with the task of priming

Now the walls are completely ready for gluing non-woven wallpaper or non-woven fabrics. Let us remind you that glue is not applied to such wallpaper, but only the wall.

Other options

A very bad option if you want to wallpaper a painted wall. Wallpaper does not adhere well to a smooth, slippery surface, so before gluing, we will have to remove a layer of paint from the walls.

This is a very labor-intensive task, but if we want to make a full-fledged repair, we will have to sacrifice time. All basic preparation for working with wallpaper will consist of removing paint from all walls in the room.

The paint on the walls varies

We can remove paint from the wall in several ways:

• The simplest and lowest-quality option is to sand the surface of the walls, and in some places, use a knife to make notches and nicks. Then a primer is applied and the wallpaper is glued, but it will not stick well everywhere.
• Another option is not the safest - the paint is removed from the walls with a spatula, for which it is heated using a hair dryer. This must be done in a respirator and with good air circulation, since when heated, harmful substances can be released from the paint.
• The third option is very dusty and dirty - the paint is removed using a brush, or iron brush, put on a hammer drill or grinder. When sanding walls, a huge amount of dust is released, so the room needs to be insulated as much as possible: close all doors, windows and plug up the cracks.
• The last option is to use special solutions to remove paint and varnish. This method is also quite dangerous, so take care of personal protective equipment.

After removing paint from the wall, before gluing non-woven wallpaper, the walls must be primed, since in their original form they absorb liquids very strongly. The concrete-contact primer copes well with this task.

This time, the dusty method was chosen to remove paint from the walls.

If the walls were severely damaged during removal paint coating, then we return to plastering the walls. If there is extremely large damage, it is even possible to plaster the walls using beacons. However, this method involves applying large quantity plastering material.

Often there are walls that require a huge amount of plaster to level them. In this case, it is permissible to consider leveling the geometry of the room using drywall. Irregularities and defects in the walls are simply covered with gypsum boards.

Using plasterboard for finishing walls

Non-woven wallpaper adheres simply perfectly to plasterboard walls, but it also needs to be primed, but in this case you won’t need much primer material. Vinyl wallpaper on a non-woven backing will fit perfectly on smooth, prepared plasterboard walls.

Properly preparing your walls before you hang your wallpaper will avoid many problems in the future. Even if the repairs are carried out by amateurs, many difficulties in the work can be avoided by carrying out basic work on leveling the walls. In the future, all you have to do is enjoy excellent renovation.

Depending on how well the surface of the wall is prepared decorative finishing(wallpaper, decorative plaster, tiles, painting) depends on the final result and the service life of the repair. Many people know about the need to prepare concrete walls for wallpapering, but few know how to do it correctly in order to avoid disastrous results of their work, which will ultimately result in additional costs of time, effort and finances.

The main arguments for preparing before wallpapering concrete walls, are the following:

First stage of preparation

The preparation of concrete walls depends on whether there is an old coating on them, or whether the walls have never been decorated.

Preparation for old wall coverings

The very first stage in carrying out preparatory work for wallpapering is dismantling the old covering. If you do not dismantle the old wallpaper, further measures to prepare the surface will not make sense.

The old wallpaper needs to be softened. If the previous wallpaper was paper, they should be wetted with a soap solution containing wallpaper glue. On vinyl or non-woven wallpaper, you need to make cuts in order to get to the paper base, which should soften the soap solution. After the wallpaper has softened, it should be removed with a metal spatula. If they are difficult to remove, you should moisten them again with soapy water.

If the wall was painted with enamel or oil paint, it should be cleaned with coarse sandpaper. Water-based paint deleted similarly paper wallpaper using a spatula.

If the previous wall finishing was plaster, you need to ensure its integrity by tapping for the presence of voids. Empty places are removed and plastered; if there are many such places, it is better to remove the entire layer and plaster the surface again.

Preparing walls in a new building

Before preparing the walls for wallpapering in a new building, you should rough finishing, which, in turn, consists of several stages:

Elimination of uneven walls can be done using plaster mesh. To achieve maximum adhesion of the plaster to the surface, notches are made on a smooth concrete wall with a hammer drill.

Stage two: primer

After completing the first stage, the preparation of the walls continues with their primer. It is needed to fasten the surface layer of the wall, penetrating deeply into the plaster or concrete. The wall surface begins to absorb moisture worse, which improves the quality of its coating. In addition, the primer removes dust, cleaning the surface. It must be remembered that the preparation of concrete at each stage must be accompanied by priming.

The primer is applied using a roller or brush until a white foam forms. If it absorbs quickly, additional layers are applied. After the primer has dried, the wall is rough leveled.

Stage three: putty

After the primer has dried, the preparation of the walls continues by eliminating irregularities, defects, and cracks. It is necessary to achieve as smooth a surface as possible. Before applying the putty, you need to make sure that there are no fasteners or fittings left in the wall, which will show up as rust through the wallpaper in the future. Areas where the reinforcement is exposed must be puttied with special care. In order not to leave noticeable stripes, it is necessary to apply the spatula first in a vertical position, then in a horizontal position. To obtain a better and more uniform coating, it is recommended to use a wide spatula 30-40 cm and hold it at an angle of 25-30 degrees relative to the wall. To putty corners, use an angle spatula.

Final preparation

Final preparation of the walls includes sanding the putty surface metal mesh or sandpaper for minor irregularities after the putty has completely dried, and final priming until completely dry required quantity layers.

This preparation of concrete walls is carried out by gluing paper, vinyl, non-woven wallpaper.

Preparation for liquid wallpaper

When preparing for liquid wallpaper, a perfectly flat surface is required, while when gluing non-woven wallpaper, some wall irregularities may become invisible. The preparation of concrete walls for decorative plaster and liquid wallpaper is similar, but for liquid wallpaper it is required less costs by time. It is no different from preparing for gluing regular wallpaper, besides the fact that liquid ones tend to draw out concrete surfaces stains and stains, so the walls must be covered with special products and several primer layers.

For concrete walls, such a product is gypsum. It protects the adhesive contained in liquid wallpaper, allowing it to reliably stick to the concrete surface. Plaster clogs everything minor irregularities and pores, it can also be sanded. After it dries, the surface is primed and covered with white water paint to ensure that liquid wallpaper does not lose its color. Painting on concrete and plaster is ineffective - only on gypsum putty. Finally, a strengthening primer is applied to bond the liquid wallpaper and the wall surface. Liquid wallpaper is applied with a spatula in the same way as decorative plaster.

Preparation for painting

When preparing a concrete wall for painting, it must be cleaned of any coating that has been applied and anything that may prevent an even layer of putty from laying down. All chips and cracks are repaired, then the concrete for painting is sanded with sandpaper. To prime a concrete surface for painting, special primer mixtures are needed. deep penetration, preventing swelling and peeling of paint. Get high-quality painting surfaces can only be painted after applying several layers of primer. Painting of concrete should be done after complete removal of dust using a roller. Correct painting carried out starting from the top of the wall.

Preparation for tiles

Preparing a concrete surface for tiles is practically no different from other types of coatings. The preparation steps for tiles are the same as described above. The advantage of the work, which will save time, is that there is no need to level the wall under the tiles to a perfectly level state - it is enough to only get rid of significant unevenness. The exception to this is preparation for mosaic tiles with a paper base, which is pasted like wallpaper - it requires a well-plastered surface. If the walls are smooth, the tiles are laid with tile adhesive or cement mortar, if not, then padding of the plaster mesh is additionally used.

After removing the old coating, the plaster is tapped for voids for repair. After this, the surface under the tile is treated with an antifungal primer; this is especially important if tiling a bathroom or toilet. Floor tiles in these rooms it is necessary to treat with waterproofing.

Before you start professionally gluing walls, you need to do some preliminary preparation. Many people know about the existence of the “preparatory stage,” but few fully understand the true meaning of this concept. What is the sequence of actions during pre-treatment of walls before painting or gluing? There are pitfalls in this process, how to avoid them?

Let's try to find out all the nuances of the stage of preparing walls for wallpapering, since this finishing material is quite often used in everyday life.

Preparing walls for cleaning

It would seem that gluing wallpaper on walls itself is an activity that requires the right approach, implies patience and accuracy. But if you missed this important stage As a preliminary preparation of the walls, the end result will disappoint you. Special professional knowledge on preparatory stage you will not be required to, you just need to stock up on great desire, patience, and some building materials and tools.

It is necessary to make the wall surface smooth and dry. Otherwise, the process of wallpapering the wall will be pointless; after a couple of days, the wallpaper will begin to fall off the wall. To perform similar actions, purchase hardware store. The walls in apartments sold through the secondary real estate market are covered with wallpaper or painted, and therefore require individual preliminary preparation To cosmetic repairs.

If you are planning renovations in a new building, you will first have to carry out, because builders do not bother themselves much when building new houses, they do not check the quality of partitions, the evenness of surfaces, their main task is to obtain maximum material benefit in a minimum period of time. All those inaccuracies that were made by them, you will be forced to correct. Concrete dusty floor, uneven walls, lack of sockets - typical signs new apartment. It is impossible to move into such an apartment right away; you will have to spend a lot of effort, Money, your time to “bring the square to mind,” that is, to make it suitable for living.

The procedure for preparing walls in new buildings for cosmetic repairs is conventionally divided into several main stages:

1. First stage involves applying a spray to the walls, which should have a thickness of about 3-9 millimeters. This layer is an analogue of thick sour cream; it can fill all the roughness and unevenness; it easily lies on the surface of the wall. Depending on the consistency of the spray, the plaster may stick to the wall normally, or after a while it may fall off the wall.
2. Second phase consists of priming the walls. On average, the thickness of the primer layer is 5-6 millimeters; in case of emergency, several layers of primer are applied to the wall in stages.
3. Third stage consists of covering, that is, placing a final layer of plaster on the surface of the wall, the thickness of which is assumed to be 2-4 millimeters. The essence of such actions is the formation of a thin, light film on the surface of the soil, which is carefully rubbed over time.
4. Fourth stage involves the procedure of leveling walls using sandpaper.

How to remove old wallpaper from walls

If there was old wallpaper on the wall, then you need to get rid of it. Some homeowners neglect this stage, believing that they are simply wasting their time, energy, etc. What is the risk of such actions?

If several layers of wallpaper are glued to the wall at once, there is a high probability that they will begin to peel off, in which case you will have to remove all the wallpaper from the walls and buy new ones, that is, you, wanting to save money and effort, will end up spending both. In order to prevent such unpleasant consequences, pay attention to phased implementation preparing the wall for covering it with new wallpaper.

So, if there is a layer of old wallpaper on the wall, be patient and get rid of all the remnants of the wallpaper. Are there ways to speed up the process of removing old wallpaper from walls?

Professionals advise using:

1. With a small spatula;
2. Spray or roller;
3. Dishwashing detergent;
4. Vinegar;
5. Fabric softener;
6. Water.

In those places where the elements are located heating system, as well as near window sills, the wallpaper adheres firmly to the wall and cannot be removed without auxiliary means.

First, the surface of the old wallpaper is intensively wetted with water; to do this, take a sprayer or a construction roller. If you add to warm water vinegar solution, detergents, which are capable of dissolving the glue on which the wallpaper was glued, then you will significantly speed up the procedure for preparing the walls for subsequent pasting with new wallpaper. After the walls get wet, you can take a spatula and gradually... If you wish, you can buy special products at a hardware store designed to get rid of old wallpaper.

Preparing a painted wall for wallpapering

If the wall has been painted, it also needs to be prepared for the process of wallpapering, because wallpaper will not stay on a smooth painted wall; it will begin to fall off the wall after a few months. In order to avoid such troubles, take care of your preparations in advance. The essence of the preparatory process is high-quality stripping of layers from the wall old paint.

Removing paint with a scraper

Some property owners, trying to save time on preparing walls for gluing, use regular sandpaper, using it to remove only part of the old paint layer. Someone simply makes a few notches on the wall or partially coats the surface of the wall with a layer of primer.

The sandpaper is fixed in special device or wrap it around wooden block so as not to hurt your hands

Such half-hearted preparatory actions do not guarantee positive result after all pasting is completed, especially if . You will have to be patient and pay attention to the process of removing all the old paint from the wall:

1. First remove the old paint, then apply a high-quality primer to the walls;
2. Wait for the wall to dry;
3. Using sandpaper, remove all unevenness and roughness from the wall.

We use a hair dryer

The use of a hair dryer is effective, but not in a safe way removing old paint from the wall. It is necessary to turn on a hair dryer, direct it to the painted surfaces of the wall, and after the paint becomes soft, remove it from the wall using a spatula.

Important. It is necessary to guarantee the flow into the premises fresh air, because in the process of heating the paint there is an intense release of harmful substances into the atmosphere of the room chemical substances, there is a high probability of nausea, vomiting, and mild poisoning.

Removing paint with a sander

The use of a grinder or grinder equipped wire brush , helps to quickly remove paint from the surface of the wall, but this method is very dusty, so you need to take care of ways to protect your respiratory organs, for example, wear safety glasses and respirator. While working with grinder or a grinder preferably open windows indoors, protect the floor plastic film, close the doors to other areas of the apartment so that dust does not spread throughout the apartment.

Experts call the most effective and safest way to get rid of old paint by using special paint remover. When working with such a wash, you should also take care of the full protection of your organs of vision and breathing, using the following means.

It would seem that there is nothing easier than covering a flat or old house. But first you need to learn how to prepare walls for wallpaper. This is the first and most important step in the renovation of the premises. If you neglect it, then even expensive wallpaper on a poorly prepared wall will look unsightly.

Step-by-step preparation instructions

Let's consider surface preparation in stages.

Preparation of materials and tools

Each material requires its own tool. To go through all the stages of wall leveling, you will need the following: materials and tools.

Or at cement based. It sets the basic alignment of the plane of a brick or concrete base. Its quantity depends on the walls and how uneven they are.

Attention! In some cases, the layer thickness can reach several centimeters.

As a rule, it requires pre-installation guide beacons . Tools used:

• mixer with large whisk;
• rule;
• trowel, spatula of various widths;

​Putty. Used to level out small irregularities that inevitably arise during plastering. Needed to fill joints plasterboard sheets. The layer thickness is up to several millimeters. Tools:

• mixer with a small whisk;
• spatulas.

. Used for final leveling and setting the microtexture of the surface. The trellises are glued directly onto it. Tools:

• mixer with a small whisk;
• spatulas.

Copes with two tasks - penetrates upper layer surface and strengthens it, and also binds dust residues. For smooth concrete walls, a “concrete contact” may be needed. Tools:

• roller;
• brush.

Wallpaper, wallpaper glue. Tools:

• construction level;
• brushes;
• glue roller;
• roller or spatula for smoothing wallpaper (depending on the wallpaper material);
• stationery knife with replaceable blades.

You need to immediately buy everything in the store so as not to be distracted later.

Removing old coating

Before preparing the surface with your own hands, you need to make sure the strength of the base. Base shouldn't have even small fragments of old paint or finishing materials.

The hardest part will be for those who have old walls treated with oil paint or oil putty. Eat several ways get rid of them:

1. Using an ax, we make notches, moisten it generously and knock it down with a hammer and chisel. For oil-based putty that cannot be soaked, a scraper with replaceable blades may be effective. And yet the method is labor-intensive and time-consuming. It will be suitable if there is loose plaster under the paint, but if there is concrete, you will have to abandon it.
2. Grinder or drill with an abrasive attachment they will speed things up, but there will be a lot of dust.
3. Special chemical compositions allow you to remove the softened paint with a wire brush or scraper a few hours after application. The disadvantages of these funds are that they require special protection And long-term ventilation. After such removal, the surface may remain hydrophobic and require machining. This is a good method for small areas, because such products are not cheap.
4. Using a hair dryer, gas burner or blowtorch. The paint is heated and removed with a scraper. But be prepared that the paint will evaporate and burn. The disadvantages in this case will be the same as with the chemical method.

Removing old trellises is much easier, but don't just strip them dry. The order of work is as follows:

• do warm solution with added soap;
• wet part of the wall with a sponge or roller;
• wait a few minutes, if the wallpaper is not wet, wet it some more.

A scraper with replaceable blades will help remove even unsoaked material residues. Thick non-woven or washable vinyl wallpapers It’s easier to soak by making cuts. IN difficult situations have to use a steam generator.

Primer of walls

At each stage of surface preparation, before applying the next material, the walls need a primer. The primer penetrates the top layer of the surface, strengthens it and reduces excess absorption. The primer also binds residual dust. All this is provided t maximum grip material with the wall.

There are many types of primer, let's look at the main ones.

Type	Properties
Acrylic	Apply to brick, concrete, drywall, gypsum mixtures, wood. Drying time is about 3 hours.
Latex	There are universal, deep penetration and antiseptic. Good for loose, porous substrates, when high humidity, have antifungal properties.
Silicone	For smooth concrete surfaces. Dries within 4 hours.
Polyurethane	For surfaces with low absorbency. Drying time up to 24 hours.
Mineral	Applied to gas silicate or expanded clay concrete blocks, brick, concrete, plaster, limestone. Drying takes a day or more.

Concrete walls will need to be treated with a primer and filler. made of quartz sand(concrete contact). For subsequent plastering, a primer with a filler fraction of 0.6 mm is selected; for putty, a fraction of 0.3 mm is sufficient.

For priming the finishing putty directly in front of the wallpaper, the most common acrylic primer. During the sanding process finishing putty becomes covered with a layer of dust that needs to be swept away.

The primer is applied with a roller. Preferably avoid leaks, therefore, if the primer is quickly absorbed, you can prime it again.

Corners and adjacent walls are coated with a brush. After complete drying, the surfaces are ready for gluing trellises.

Leveling the wall surface

Very often the base for wallpaper leaves much to be desired. IN severe cases may be required lighthouse plaster walls under wallpaper. Even local differences and irregularities of a centimeter or more are undesirable to fill with putty. For this it is better to use a plaster mixture.

Beacons - metal guides - mounted on the wall strictly vertical around the entire perimeter of the room. Verticality is set using building level And metal rule. When using cement or lime plaster minimum layer- 1–2 cm. Plaster - a thinner layer is allowed.

Next, plaster is thrown onto the surface with a trowel and leveled according to the beacons using the rule. Excess plaster can be scraped off using the same rule, without waiting for the mixture to completely harden. For cement or lime, this can be done after a few hours; for gypsum, immediately after setting.

Important! If there is even a small crack on the surface, this place needs to be strengthened before plastering. reinforcing mesh. Otherwise, a crack may appear on the finishing putty and even on the wallpaper.

When rough plastering, you do not need to immediately create a perfectly flat and smooth surface. This is especially difficult to do in thick layers. Small holes and chips are quite acceptable.

Lime and cement plaster You can grind it using a special grater according to the old recipe, soaking the not completely hardened surface with water and adding a small amount of solution.

Preparation of plastered walls too It starts with a primer. The surface is puttied with non-shrink finishing gypsum putty.

You need to start from the corners; there are special corner spatulas for this. The putty is applied with a wide, up to 50 cm, spatula. After complete drying, the finishing putty is sanded with sandpaper or an emery mesh with a grain size from No. 60 to No. 120. The preparation of the walls for wallpaper is basically complete.

How to paste wallpaper yourself

When the base for the wallpaper is ready, you can start gluing it, but before you buy, you should choose the right type of finishing materials:

All types of rolled finishing materials, taking into account some nuances glued like this:

1. Dilute the glue according to the manufacturer's instructions.
2. Cut the rolls according to the height of the walls with an excess of 2-3 centimeters. Don't forget that the height may not be the same. When adjusting the pattern, the pieces can turn out much larger, this must be taken into account when calculating required quantity rolls
3. Using a building level or a plumb line with chalk, draw a vertical line as a guide for the first sheet.
4. Apply glue with a roller to the surface and, if necessary, to the sheet. The edges and corners are coated with a brush. Fold the wallpaper sheet with glue inside, so it will dry out less.

The sheets are glued from top to bottom and smoothed with a special roller or plastic spatula from the center to the edges, along the marked landmark. Squeezed out excess glue is removed. The following sheets are glued end to end.

Features of surface preparation

Concrete bases require a special approach. Glue wallpaper directly onto concrete covering Not recommended, even if it seems perfectly smooth.

The concrete is primed not with ordinary acrylic primer, but with a filler of quartz sand (contact concrete). For finishing with plaster, a primer with a filler fraction of 0.6 mm is selected; for putty, a fraction of 0.3 mm is sufficient.

Preparation process brick wall for taping with trellises, as a rule, requires leveling using lighthouse plaster. Before you start plastering, to reduce its layer, you need to get rid of excess mortar and protruding irregularities. It is convenient to treat a brick wall with a primer from a spray bottle. It will be possible to avoid additional leveling with lighthouse plaster or plasterboard if the wall is laid out perfectly level.

Wall finishing with plasterboard covering, of course, hides a little space, but has many advantages:

• the ability to place insulation/sound insulation into empty space;
• placement of wiring and other communications;
• internal sockets and switches;
• perfect smooth surfaces without additional costs at poor quality original.

The technology for leveling walls under wallpaper with plasterboard is divided in two ways: mounting on metal carcass and using Perlfix gypsum mounting adhesive. The first option is preferable if the surfaces are too uneven and their preparation will take a lot of time - it is not necessary to remove even old trellises under the frame.

Attention! The disadvantage is that the frame eats up about 3 cm of space.

From this point of view, the second method is more economical, but will require additional training: you will have to rid most of the surface of old trellises, paint, loose plaster and get to a solid base.