How to install a plasterboard wall with your own hands. Round wall made of plasterboard. Strengthening the partition for hanging heavy equipment

Wall covering with plasterboard is used in private houses, apartments, and country houses. The method is simple and the work does not take much time. However, in order to avoid common mistakes, it is worth studying the principle of working with this material before installation. The article will describe in detail the principle of finishing walls with plasterboard.

Drywall is a building material used for cladding surfaces and is produced in the form of sheets. The middle of the product is made of plaster, covered with cardboard on both sides. Cardboard layers are needed to give the material the required stiffness, and protect the gypsum base from environmental factors. In addition, these layers create a barrier against abrasion during transportation of drywall.

More often used for interior work, less often for exterior work. You can quickly level walls with it; it is also used to create multi-level ceilings, niches, columns, partitions, doorways and other design ideas.

People often wonder if this material is harmful, the answer is no. It consists of natural ingredients, although adhesives and foaming agents are used for production, it is absolutely harmless to health.

Drywall is a building material used for cladding surfaces and is produced in the form of sheets.

Properties

Drywall is easy to cut into the required pieces; when wet, it can be bent. These properties help to create various textures from it for interior decoration. Finishing walls with gypsum plasterboard will provide additional sound insulation; it also absorbs excess moisture, which it releases back when dry. This side of it makes the indoor microclimate more comfortable.

It is also a fireproof material, economical, and does not require the application of several layers of putty because it has a smooth surface. The versatility of application can also be noted as positive attribute plasterboard sheets.

The downside of the product is its destructibility if the humidity is too high. Plaster crumbles, and hanging heavy objects on it is problematic; for this it is necessary to construct additional fasteners.

Finishing walls with gypsum plasterboard will provide additional sound insulation, and it will also absorb excess moisture.

Purpose

The technology for working with this material involves only “dry” working methods. GCR is most often used for the following types of work:

to level ceilings and window openings, this requires a minimum amount of time, but at the same time all imperfections of the surfaces are hidden and an even coating is obtained;
for creating multi-level ceilings, various columns. The ability of the material to take on a variety of shapes makes it so popular among designers, because at an affordable price you can build original decor;
for constructing partitions. Sometimes it is necessary to zone the space in a room, the use of brick walls is problematic and impractical, because such structures can create an extra load on load-bearing walls, and drywall, which does not weigh so much, is convenient for creating such fences, and saving time is also a plus;
its heat and sound insulation characteristics are taken into account when choosing it for surface finishing.

The ability of the material to take on a variety of shapes makes it so popular among designers.

It is necessary to note for what purposes it is better not to use gypsum boards:

use it as cladding for damp rooms where heating is not provided; in such conditions it will quickly become unsuitable;
create partitions with capital loads from it, it simply will not withstand such heavy loads;
It is also undesirable to cover the facades of houses with it, the harmful influence of the environment will quickly damage the material, it will gradually collapse;
at interior decoration It is also advisable to finish it with something to increase its shelf life.

It is undesirable to sheathe the facades of houses with it; the harmful influences of the environment will quickly render the material unusable and it will gradually collapse.

Required materials and tools

For successful implementation facing works with plasterboard sheets, you will need to prepare a number of devices and materials.

To build the frame you will need:

marker, knife for cutting drywall;
measuring tape, building level, using a laser will reduce the time for marking;
scissors for metal products;
dowels;
galvanized profile;
perforated hangers;
grinder, screwdriver;
self-tapping screws for metal products;
cutter (screws) to secure profiles together;
plane, leveling the edges;
spatula;
a vessel where the solutions will be stirred.

For frameless you need:

level;
spatulas;
rule;
jigsaw or knife;
grater;
square, marker;
rubberized mallet;
screwdriver;
putty;
brush and roller for priming the surface;
sealing tape;
self-tapping screws

To successfully carry out facing work with plasterboard sheets, you will need to prepare a number of devices and materials.

The materials needed for installation are purchased based on the type of installation; the use of a frame structure will require:

plasterboard sheets;
when working with sheathing, the rack profile can be replaced with a guide;
ceiling profile to strengthen the structure;
the guide is designed to secure sheets to all possible surfaces;
single-level connector, necessary to connect vertical and horizontal profiles;
direct suspension, designed to secure the ceiling profile to the wall.

For the frameless method you will need:

special glue, you can choose gypsum, or take other adhesives;
primer solution;
a mixture intended for sealing joint areas;
if the work is carried out on a concrete or brick wall, then polyurethane foam will also be required.

The materials needed for installation are purchased based on the type of installation.

Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall covering - step-by-step instructions

To properly install drywall yourself, you should follow step by step instructions, then the result will be durable and desirable. The stages of work vary depending on the chosen method of covering gypsum board walls. It is allowed to attach drywall to the frame and profiles, and directly to the wall. Next, the steps for each method will be described in detail.

The stages of work vary depending on the chosen method of covering gypsum board walls.

For frame technology

The first stage is preparatory. It is generally accepted that when using a frame there is no need to remove the old coating and prime the surface. But performing these actions will increase the service life of the plasterboard coating.

The frame structure can be erected using wooden slats, but due to their fragility, this material is rarely used; metal parts are usually chosen.

A frame structure can be erected using wooden slats, but due to their fragility, this material is rarely used; metal parts are usually chosen.

Surface marking

A plumb line is attached to the wall in the corner under the ceiling, in the place where the plumb line touched flooring you need to screw in the screw. This is done on all 4 corners of the room. A rope is pulled onto the screws. The formed lines are transferred to the floor and ceiling covering.

It is necessary to leave a distance of 4 centimeters in order to place the frame structure there. Abandonment long distance inappropriate, because it will reduce the area of space.

It is necessary to leave a distance of 4 centimeters in order to place the frame structure there.

Mounting the frame

The guide profile is attached to ceiling surface and floor marked lines, fastening is done with dowels. You can glue a sealing tape on the back side of the profiles in advance; this will help reduce the vibrations transmitted by the floors of the frame structure.

Next, mark the installation locations of the rack profile. The racks are installed in increments of 60 centimeters. If it is known that heavy objects will be attached to the plasterboard surface, the step is reduced to 40 centimeters.

To calculate the required height of the racks, measure the length from the ceiling to the floor guides and minus one centimeter. Using metal scissors, profiles of the required length are obtained. First, the rack profile is mounted into the floor guide profile, and then into the ceiling. All profiles are installed at marked points. The racks are attached to the wall with hangers.

Before sewing up the gypsum board wall, it is allowed to lay insulation.

The racks are installed in increments of 60 centimeters.

Mounting drywall

First, entire sheets are installed, proceeding in a staggered order: the whole sheet is attached first, aligned at the bottom, the next one is at the top. This results in a more stable structure.

To secure the sheets, screw in self-tapping screws; there should be 45 screws per sheet. 5 screws are screwed in along the short side, the rest are distributed throughout the entire panel. You should not screw it in completely, deepening the screw into the sheet only one millimeter.

This is the final stage of fixing the drywall.

To secure the sheets, screw in self-tapping screws; there should be 45 screws per sheet.

For frameless technology

This method also cannot do without the preparatory part. More careful preparation of the walls is required.

More careful preparation of the walls is required.

Surface preparation

The first step is to get rid of the old cladding. If the coating was Oil paint, and it cannot be removed, then you should make notches to get better grip.

All defects are filled with a putty mixture, after the product has dried, all bulges are removed, it is necessary to obtain the most even wall possible.

It is also necessary to prime the surface. Before applying the primer solution, the surface is cleaned of all types of contaminants. Next, using a roller, the walls (a brush is needed for the corners) are covered with primer with 1 or 2 layers. Between applying layers, wait until they dry.

All defects are filled with putty mixture.

Wall marking

Marking is done only on a dry surface. To mark the surface, use building level. It is necessary to take into account the possibility of deformation of the sheets. To do this, leave a margin of 1 centimeter between the material and the floor, and 5 millimeters under the ceiling. A gap line is drawn under the ceiling. At the bottom they do without this; usually plywood panels are placed under the sheets.

Using a plumb line, the corners are checked for evenness, and a vertical line is drawn at the intersection of the walls. The first sheet is installed at this location.

To mark the surface, use a building level.

Fixing the gypsum board

The adhesive is selected based on the quality of the surface. If the wall is smooth, then order or buy gypsum, cement mixtures, polyurethane foam; if the surface is more uneven, then it is cheaper to purchase dry mixtures; dowels may also be required.

Job adhesives includes:

diluting the dry composition with water according to the instructions on the package;
apply the solution to the back side of the plasterboard sheets;
gluing begins from the corner near which a vertical line was drawn in order to place the sheet evenly along it, and further sheets were also installed evenly. You need to put a plywood panel on the floor in this place to leave a gap;
They are usually carried along the sheet, distributing the adhesive throughout the entire sheet. It is important not to forget to check the evenness of the installation; if there are any shortcomings, then by tapping the sheet with your hand, they are corrected;
when the adhesive solution has completely dried on the wall, the plasterboard panels are additionally secured with dowels;
Each drywall is applied using the same steps. Smaller areas are sealed at the end; first, these areas are measured, the plasterboard is cut according to the resulting dimensions, and they are carefully inserted into the areas remaining without drywall.

The adhesive is selected based on the quality of the surface.

The work with polyurethane foam is as follows:

Foam is applied to the drywall around the perimeter, then several diagonal lines are made in the central part of the plasterboard. And they attach it to the wall, check its evenness with a level, and fix them (you can support the board to the floor and press the sheet with them), remove support boards only after a day, when the foam has completely dried;
when sheathing with foam, check the placement of each sheet with a level; the foam may swell more in places, so if the level shows the presence of protruding parts, they should be pressed down using the same boards.

You can begin finishing work with plaster immediately after the composition has dried. The technology depends on what material will be used to finish the surface.

When sheathing with foam, the application of each sheet is checked with a level.

The main mistakes made when covering walls with plasterboard

To obtain good result and a smooth coating prepared for finishing work, the main thing is not to make mistakes during the installation process. A list of common mistakes when you decide to cover walls with plasterboard yourself:

Incorrect installation of profiles. The profile should smooth side be directed downwards. It is worth cutting it carefully and only with metal scissors in order to preserve the opposite shelf, where the drywall will be attached next, without damage. The use of hangers cannot be neglected;
choosing the wrong types of profiles;
unbending of parts of the profile, which leads to a decrease in the strength of the entire surface;
installation of gypsum boards on the wrong side. Especially if a waterproof profile is used, for example in a bathroom, then installing it with the reverse side facing the room, all waterproof properties are simply lost;
improper fastening of the sheets, they should be fastened at intervals, only then the structure will be reliable.

The profile should have its smooth side facing down.

You can cover the walls with plasterboard yourself. But you need to strictly follow the work technology, not missing out on details that may seem insignificant, but in the end will play a big role on the quality of the resulting surface. Doing the work yourself will reduce the cost of repairs.

Video: Secrets of installing drywall

Redevelopment is a favorite method for changing the geometry of rooms among interior designers. Main tool in this case - installation of plasterboard partitions.

These are lightweight, inexpensive and prefabricated structures. In this article we will tell you in detail how to correctly mark a partition with your own hands, mount a frame from profiles and cover it with plasterboard.

Drywall, in comparison with others building materials (brick, partition blocks), has more advantages. Sheets large sizes, which allows you to level in a matter of minutes large area. Their cutting and installation occurs without dust and dirt. The material is fire resistant and acts as an additional soundproofing barrier.

Main advantages:

light and quite durable material;
low cost compared to other materials;
ease of installation - even a person without experience can do it with a minimum set of tools.

Can I make a partition myself?

Even non-professionals can easily make a plasterboard partition. Of course, you can first consult with an experienced craftsman and read the information in order to avoid imperfections and defects. We recommend taking the advice from our article as a basis.

In general, you need to provide yourself with a set of tools, the necessary amount of materials, and bookmark this article. By the way, you will most likely need an assistant, because... It is almost impossible to mount a large sheet of gypsum board alone.

What to buy, how to calculate?

First, you need to decide on the size of the required partition. Having determined the number of sheets on one side, do not forget that the same volume of sheets will be required to sew the second side of the partition. Materials you will also need:

Guide profiles, size 50x40. You need enough profile to cover the entire perimeter of the partition.
Rack profiles 50x50. They differ from guides by having shelves at the top and bottom. The calculation is carried out individually, based on what type of installation will be used by the master.
Dowels and screws, 45 mm long - for fixing guide profiles to the floor, walls and ceiling
Metal screws 35mm - for fixing drywall to the frame;
Self-tapping screws with a 10 mm press washer for attaching profiles to each other;
Perforated paper and gypsum putty.

In addition to the material, you need to ensure the availability of construction tools. If you don’t have one at home, so as not to spend money on buying it, you can rent the equipment. A hammer drill, a drill, a plumb bob, a level, and a screwdriver will be useful for installation.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a plasterboard partition

The technological process for installing plasterboard partitions consists of four stages, excluding putty work and finishing. Everything starts with the markup. Despite the seemingly simplicity of this stage, it requires a lot of time. After marking, they begin to install the guides and install the rack profiles. On last stage sheets are sewn onto the frame.

This is exactly what a schematic work plan looks like. However, for accuracy, we will consider each of them in detail.

Marking

We immediately note the importance of this stage. If you make a mistake in applying the markings, this can lead to the fact that the partition will not be strong or of the correct shape.

Markings for the future partition begin from the floor. To do this, on the surface, using a marker or pencil, mark the location of the front and back wall designs. If the sheathing consists of one layer, then an indentation of 1.2 cm is made inward from the applied mark ( thickness of one sheet of drywall). The guide profiles are laid out according to the new marks.

Next, we proceed to transfer the marks to the ceiling and side walls. The procedure is complicated (in the absence of a laser level), but everything can be solved. To do this you will need a plumb line. With its help, we mark marks on the ceiling and side walls so that the perimeter of the structure is in the same plane.

Frame installation

Fastening the guide profiles begins from the floor. If you need to provide sound insulation in a room, you can glue a special sealing tape to the floor and ceiling at the installation site of the guide profile (you can ask the consultant in the store).

The guides are fastened with dowel nails or self-tapping screws ( if the floors are wooden).

When the perimeter of the future partition is marked with guide profiles, we proceed to cutting the rack profile to size. The main thing is to place the vertical profile level, leading it into the already mounted guides. The height of the rack profile should be 10-15 mm less than the height of the ceiling, which will make it easy to display the product.

The metal profile must be located in the location of the future doorway.

The distance between the profiles must be exactly 60 cm so that the joints of the plasterboard sheets ( their width is 120 cm) were in the middle of the rack profile. The structure can be strengthened using horizontal jumpers.

Also, you can additionally fix it in the places of doorways wooden blocks ("mortgages"). This solution will avoid difficulties in installing the door block.

We fix the drywall

To conveniently fasten sheets of drywall to vertical profiles, mark their middles on the ceiling and floor. Installation begins with securing solid sheets using self-tapping screws. Fastening to profiles must be done in increments of 20-30 cm. The type of self-tapping screw is gypsum metal.

It is advisable to have as many whole sheets as possible and fewer pieces. In this case, the integrity and stability of the septum increases. When all the solid sheets are secured, you can start cutting. To cut correctly, you need to arm yourself with a tape measure, a mounting knife and a ruler. After making a cut with a knife, the sheet breaks and is cut on the other side.

The first side of the structure is sutured first. After stitching, insulation is laid between the profiles, usually mineral wool. However, the task of cotton wool in this case is not so much to insulate, but to increase sound insulation properties. When the insulation is laid, you can start sewing the second side.

Very often, the design of a room is accompanied by curves and curly lines, and the same features are transferred to the partition.

How to cut drywall

As a rule, sheets of drywall are cut using a mounting knife. To do this, a deep cut is made along the entire length on one of its sides, then the sheet is taken for a break. Due to the fact that the outer layer of cardboard is cut, the inner plaster filling breaks easily. All that remains is to cut through the bottom layer of cardboard with a knife. The result is a fairly even cut, but if there are any irregularities, they can easily be eliminated with a plane or the same knife.

In addition to the knife, you can use a number of other tools:

hacksaw ( the most common, with fine teeth);
jigsaw - with its use it is easy to cut out shaped parts, if such are present in the project;
milling cutter and drill with a crown - suitable if you need to make a round hole.

Strengthening the partition for hanging heavy equipment

Often, on the assembled partitions, owners plan to hang a TV, music system, shelf, etc. If there are such plans, then you need to take care of them at the stage of assembling the frame, in other words, mark the places when marking and reinforce them with wooden beams. They are mounted along the entire length of the rack profile.

The choice of type of reinforcement depends on the load that will be placed on the surface.

For example, one of the sides will be finished with tiles. In such a situation, it is attached to the profile moisture resistant drywall, and the frame is reinforced with horizontal jumpers from the profile, since the tiles have heavy weight, and even a layer of glue.

Putty joints

Once the plasterboard sheets are attached to the frame, the installation process is considered complete. Now it begins new stage finishing works and finishing decoration finishing materials. However, before this it is necessary to putty the seams.

The joints are puttied using serpyanka mesh ( in fact, sickle mesh is an outdated material. It is more practical to use strips of perforated paper for putty), which is glued at the joints of the sheets. Paper tape glued to the seams either with PVA glue, or simply by moistening it with water.

Let's start mixing the putty. It is important to understand that you should not mix a large bucket at once, since you need to have time to work it out before the mixture begins to harden. The frozen mixture cannot be re-mixed with water, since its properties have already been lost. The putty is applied to the joints with a spatula, and the master must smooth it out and level it as much as possible so that there are no problems with the finishing putty of the sheets.

Not only the joints, but also the screw heads are sealed with the mixture. There is no mesh glued onto the caps, and there is no need to worry that when the putty dries, rye stains will form. The hardware used for fixing is resistant to moisture, and their surface is resistant to corrosion.

Further actions depend on the selected decorative covering partitions. If the wall is to be painted, then, of course, a second layer of finishing putty will be required over the entire surface. For wallpaper, panels, tiles and other types of finishing, you don’t need to spend money on putty. Although some experts still recommend going over the entire area of the wall with putty a second time.

After the mixture has dried, the wall is sanded with fine sandpaper. Thus, it is possible to achieve maximum evenness and smoothness.

Since appearing on construction market plasterboard sheets, designers were able to create any complex shapes, including arcuate walls. However, before making a semicircular wall from plasterboard, you need to study in more detail the properties of this material and the sequence of work.

The process of creating a rounded corner using a wireframe

Before installing such an arched structure, you need to learn the basic rules for working with drywall:

Rounded surfaces can only be created using a frame made of steel profile, it is better not to use wooden blocks in this case
Plasterboard sheet is not characterized by high strength, so it is better to bend according to a pre-made template
To create a large bend, the material must be wetted; in this form, small radius bends can be created.
The size of the sheet should match the height of the wall being rounded, this will make the installation process a little easier

To avoid any unforeseen situations in the process of creating a semicircular plasterboard partition, you should prepare the necessary material in advance:

Plasterboard sheets
Metal profile of several types
Self-tapping screws and dowels

In addition, any construction or finishing process is performed using a specific set of tools:

Screwdriver or electric drill with attachment
Metal cutting scissors
Plumb or building level
Ruler and tape measure
Rope or construction cord
Marker or pencil

Work on creating a rounded corner from plasterboard is carried out in a certain sequence:

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Fastening drywall to a pre-rounded partition

To correctly answer the question of how to make a semicircular partition from plasterboard, you should understand that the quality of the process performed depends on proper preparation walls and plasterboard sheet.

Before gluing drywall, the wall must first be rounded. If the wall is made of brick, then knock down the outer corner with a hammer drill and level it well. WITH concrete wall proceed in the same way, but it should be taken into account that concrete is much stronger and there are reinforcing elements in it.

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To prepare the plasterboard sheet, you need to bend it. To do this, you need to make a template in accordance with the shape of the wall and choose one of the bending methods.

Dry bending

On one side of the plasterboard sheet, cut the cardboard, trying to draw the strips parallel to each other. The material is laid on the template, and the space created by bending between the parts of the sheet is filled with putty. The edges of the sheet can be pressed with bars to maintain its shape. The workpiece is left for 24-48 hours until dry. After this time, the material can be used for its intended purpose.

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Wet bending

With this method, one side of the sheet is rolled with a needle roller so that water can get to the core of the material. Then the sheet is moistened with water and left for 15-20 minutes to soften the gypsum in the middle layer. The workpiece is placed on the template, the edges are fixed and left to dry completely. This takes approximately 24 hours.

The use of this method has a limitation: the minimum bending radius is 30 cm. Therefore, to create more round shapes It is better to use the dry method.

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To glue the bent sheet, the rounded plasterboard wall must be coated with a primer and dried. Then you need to apply mounting adhesive to the wall in separate strokes, attach the workpiece to it and gently press it.

In the process of gluing the wall, you need to make gaps between the floor and the material of about 1 cm. This will allow air to circulate freely, creating optimal conditions for the glue to dry.

Using drywall, even a simple home craftsman can make a rounded wall with his own hands. This is possible if you follow the installation technology, as well as correct use advice and recommendations from experienced professionals.

Unfortunately, today not everyone can afford to purchase spacious housing, but most of us still strive to create maximum coziness and comfort in what we have. Is there a way out of the situation when the number of rooms in the apartment is not enough to fully satisfy the needs of all family members? What if one room has to be used as a living room, office and bedroom? Despite the complexity of the question, the answer is quite simple - any living space can be divided into functional areas, separating them with frame partitions covered with plasterboard and installing a door.

Anatomy of a plasterboard structure

Despite the features of the interior, your design concept, as well as the location and size of plasterboard partitions, all these structures, as a rule, have a standard structure. Their basis is a rigid metal frame made of galvanized profile, which can be reinforced with a wooden beam at the installation point doorway. To increase the heat and sound insulation properties, the sheathing is filled with a special insulator, the choice of which depends on the characteristics of the room and the requirements for the structure. The assembled and insulated frame is sheathed on both sides sheets of drywall(GKL) - a reliable, environmentally friendly and easy-to-install material, completely ready for any type of finishing.

The profile frame is filled with insulation and sheathed with gypsum plasterboard sheets

Application area

Frame partitions covered with gypsum plasterboard are used to divide or zone space in rooms of various layouts and purposes. These structures are installed in industrial and office buildings, residential buildings and apartments, garages and outbuildings. The variety of types of plasterboard allows you to install partitions in rooms with high humidity and special fire safety requirements.

Advantages

Frame structures covered with plasterboard sheets have long and with great success replaced partitions made of brick or wood due to a number of characteristic advantages:

Properties of materials. A durable metal profile allows you to install lightweight frames of partitions of any shape and size, without creating additional load on the load-bearing floors. The material is resistant to moisture, galvanized coating prevents oxidation and rust formation. Drywall is environmentally friendly pure material, specially treated to improve fire-retardant and moisture-resistant properties. It is easy to install, strong and durable, and its combination with stone wool, foam plastic or cork board enhances the heat and sound insulation properties of the structure. GKL is distinguished by a perfectly smooth surface, which has unlimited possibilities for decorative finishing.
Fast and easy installation. Plasterboard partitions are easy to install - even a beginner, “inexperienced” in construction work, can create them home handyman. Note that one of the advantages of these structures is the ability to change their location - the product can be easily disassembled and reassembled.
Laying communications. The possibility of laying electrical wiring, water supply or sewerage pipelines inside the partition frame is another advantage of this design.
Minimum costs. All elements that make up a partition covered with gypsum plasterboard are low in cost. When installing the product, no piles are formed construction waste and dust, not exceeded permissible level noise and uses minimal energy.

Flaws

We will also definitely note the disadvantages of the design that need to be taken into account when making the final decision on its creation:

The relative fragility of drywall compared to materials for capital construction (brick, concrete, wood). This parameter can only be increased by adding skin layers.
Low resistance of gypsum plasterboard to heavy exposure to moisture. The material can be destroyed as a result of a leak “organized” by neighbors living above.
Inability to attach massive shelves to the partition surface or wall cabinets. The structure is capable of supporting a weight of up to 70 kg per linear meter, provided that the elements are attached to the frame parts, and the drywall itself can support no more than 15 kg.

Despite some shortcomings of gypsum boards, we note that competent creation and correct operation Partitions made from this material will help quickly, easily and inexpensively transform the interior of a room, giving it comfort and increasing its functionality.

Preparing for work

That’s it, this short “theory course” is over, let’s move on to the solution practical issues. Let's look at the list first the necessary tool, we will list the materials that we will need to erect the structure, and also perform an approximate calculation of their quantity.

Tool

To install a partition, you need to prepare a set of special, but quite common and simple tools:

Tape measure, nylon cord, building level, plumb line, pencil - marking the location of the structure.
Angle grinder (“grinder”) or metal scissors - cutting profile strips into elements of the required length.
A jigsaw (hacksaw) with drywall saws or a construction knife - cutting sheathing sheets to size.
Impact drill or hammer drill - making holes in load-bearing floors for dowels for mounting the PN profile.
Electric (battery) screwdriver - fastening frame parts and installing sheathing sheets using self-tapping screws.

To install the partition you will need a simple construction tool

Attention! To install the structure on the upper levels, you will need a durable stepladder. Work with metal profiles and drywall requires the mandatory use of personal protection- glasses or mask, thick gloves, respirator.

Materials

When installing the partition yourself, the following materials will be used:

There are two types of metal profiles for mounting the frame: PN - “guide” (English marking UW) - attached to the floor, ceiling and load-bearing walls to form the outline of the structure. Also used when creating a doorway. PS - “rack-mount” (English marking CW) - is installed vertically to ensure the rigidity of the frame. Is load-bearing element sheathings.
Drywall for sheathing - covers the frame on both sides.
Insulation - fills the inside of the structure, increasing its heat and sound insulation properties.

1 - metal profile; 2 - material for heat and sound insulation; 3 - drywall

When choosing the main materials for the construction of a partition, you need to take into account its individual parameters and the requirements that it must meet. Let's look at this question in more detail:

Profile. Standard installation interior frame structures imply the possibility of using material with a base width of 50, 75 or 100 mm. The choice of this parameter depends on the height of the ceilings of the room - the higher they are, the wider the profile should be and the thicker the partition itself.
Drywall. There are several types of material for covering the frame; the choice here depends only on the characteristics of the room. For example: when installing a partition in a bathroom, you need to use gypsum board - a moisture-resistant type of drywall, and creating curved and figured designs will require the use of thinner sheets.
Insulation material. It is selected based on the requirements for the partition and the characteristics of the room - when dividing a room into a study and a nursery, you will need a good sound insulator ( cork board or dense polystyrene), and is useful for highlighting the hallway area basalt wool, excellent heat retention.

In addition to the basic structural elements, to create it you will need:

Dowel-nails (6x40 or 6x60 mm) – installation of the profile to the floors.
Self-tapping screws for metal (LB 9 or LB 11) – fastening frame elements.
Self-tapping piercing screws for plasterboard (MN 25 or MN 30) – installation of sheathing.
Sealing (damper) tape - a gasket between the guide profile and the main floors.
Corner profile (PU) - strengthening the joint of sheathing sheets at the corners of the doorway.

The entire structure will be mounted using three types of fasteners

Expert advice: When purchasing everything you need, at the same time purchase materials for sealing joints between sheets and masking the areas where screw heads are screwed in on the surface of the sheathing - reinforcing sickle tape, primer for gypsum boards, finishing putty.

Measurements + consumables calculation table

To avoid unnecessary financial costs and eliminate the need for additional purchases of material, you should correctly calculate it required amount. There is no difficulty in this event - you need to measure the height and length of the proposed structure and determine its main parameters (profile width and number of cladding layers). Let's consider the calculation of the material, taking as an example a partition 5 meters long and 3 meters high with a doorway 0.8 meters wide and 2.1 meters high, with a frame made of a profile 75 mm wide and single-layer cladding with gypsum plasterboard sheets.

Guide profile (UW). We calculate the perimeter of our structure (5 m + 3 m) * 2 = 16 m. Subtract the width of the doorway (0.8) from this value and get 15.2 m. It is known that the height of the partition is 3 m, therefore, we will definitely need two three-meter strips, which we will secure entirely, vertically to the load-bearing walls. We will cover the remaining length of 9.2 m with three four-meter profile strips (12 m), and the excess (2.8 m) will be useful for strengthening the frame at the location where the door is installed and installing jumpers between the posts.
The UW profile that forms the outline of the structure is indicated in black.
Rack profile (CW). Considering the standard width of the gypsum board sheet (1.2 m), vertical racks The frame must be mounted in increments of no more than 0.6 m, so that the joints of the plates are connected on one profile, and another element is located in the middle of the sheet.
Frame posts should be mounted at a distance of no more than 600 mm from each other
Knowing the length of the partition, we can calculate the number of racks by dividing 5 m by 0.6 and ultimately getting 8 strips 3 meters long (the indicator is determined in accordance with the height of the structure).
The vertical posts of the partition frame made from CW profile are marked in grey.
Profile for a doorway. At the location where the door is installed, we will have to move one post, reinforcing it with a strip of guide profile, this is constructive solution will also be applied on the other side of the opening. Thus, we will need another three-meter rack profile (CW) and two guide strips (UW) of the same length. To decorate the upper part of the doorway, a section of the guide profile 1.0 m long will be used.
Two load-bearing reinforced pillars are highlighted in green, and the lintel (upper beam) of the doorway is highlighted in blue.
Profile for jumpers between racks. To increase the strength of the frame, horizontal jumpers from a guide profile are installed between the posts at a height of 1.5 m. This will require another UW strip 3 m long and the excess that remained when calculating the contour of the partition.
The jumpers made of UW profile are marked in blue, increasing the overall rigidity of the structure.
Drywall. As a material for cladding we use gypsum board sheets (slabs) with a length of 3000, a width of 1200 and a thickness of 12.5 mm. To cover one side of the frame, we will need five sheets, two of which will be used entirely, and the remaining three will have to be cut to size. We calculate the drywall for the second side of the partition so that the joints of the sheets do not intersect, but are offset by half the sheet. This also requires five slabs - two full and three trimmed.
On one side of the frame, the sheathing sheets will be arranged in this way
The second side of the frame must be closed with the sheets offset by one rack or 600 mm

Expert advice: Double-sided installation of gypsum board sheets with offset joints will increase the rigidity of the structure, significantly reducing the possibility of deformation and reducing the likelihood of cracks on the surface of the material. If you need a more durable partition, use two layers of drywall when covering it.

Summarizing the calculations, we can conclude that to create a 5x3 m plasterboard partition with a doorway we will need:

guide profile (UW–75) 3 meters - 5 strips;
guide profile (UW–75) 4 meters - 3 stripes;
rack profile (CW–75) 3 meters - 9 stripes;
plasterboard (gypsum board 1200x3000x12.5 mm) - 10 sheets.

The number of hardware (fastening elements) is calculated based on the step of their installation. Maximum distance the distance between the dowels securing the guide profile to the floors should not exceed 500 mm, and self-tapping drywall screws are installed every 250–300 mm.

Engineers from the German company KNAUF, a world leader in the production of materials and technologies for frame construction, have prepared a table that will help us when performing calculations.

Position	Name	Unit measurements	Quantity per sq. m
1	KNAUF sheet (GKL, GKLV, GKLO)	sq. m	2,0
2	KNAUF profile PN 50/40 (75/40, 100/40)	linear m	0,7
3	KNAUF profile PS 50/50 (75/50, 100/50)	linear m	2,0
4	Screw TN 25	PC.	29
5	Putty KNAUF-Fugen	kg	0,6
6	Reinforcing tape	linear m	1,5
7	Dowel K 6/35	PC.	1,6
8	Sealing tape	linear m	1,2
9	Primer KNAUF-Tiefengrund	l	0,2
10	Mineral wool thermal insulation KNAUF	sq. m	1,0
11	KNAUF-profile PU	PC.	*

* Please note that the quantity corner profile(PU) depends on the size of the doorway and is not related to the area of the structure.

Attention! To simplify calculations when building a plasterboard partition, you can use a special online calculator that shows the approximate consumption of the main material and all other components.

How to do it yourself: step-by-step instructions

So, all the important stages of preparation for work have been completed, let’s be patient, enlist the support of loved ones, get the approval of neighbors and begin installing the structure.

Expert advice: Any construction works with the use of plasterboard should be carried out at a room temperature of at least +15 C. Installation of structures is best done before finishing the floors and painting work. Before creating a partition, the surface of the main floors should be leveled, filling potholes, seams and cracks with putty.

Layout and marking

Before proceeding with the installation of the structure, we will determine the location of its installation and draw up a schematic plan according to which the markings will be carried out. This stage of work is as follows:

Attention! It should be remembered that the line we have drawn is a mark for attaching the guide profile. To determine the exact boundary of the structure itself, you need to add the thickness of the plasterboard slabs and its finishing layer.

Installation of sheathing

Having finished with the markings, we will carefully check the correctness of its application and proceed to the manufacture of the metal frame of our partition:

Using an angle grinder (“grinder”) or metal scissors, we will cut pieces of the UW guide profile to the required length. We will paste a sealing damper tape on the back side of the blanks, which softens the sound vibrations and vibrations that will be transmitted to the structure from the main floors.
Sealing damper tape will protect the structure from sound vibrations and vibration
We secure the strips along the horizontal marking line, drilling holes for dowel-nails with a hammer drill (in increments of no more than 400–500 mm) and hammering fasteners with a hammer. Experienced craftsmen It is advised to start with the top guide located on the ceiling, since it will be easier to “shoot” with a plumb line from there the correct installation of the floor profile.
We drill holes for the dowel-nails with a hammer drill and hammer in the fasteners
We will install vertical guides, securing them to the load-bearing walls (with the same step) along the marking line and checking the correct installation using a building level. Note that the fastener metal profile To brick walls with a thick layer of plaster will require the use of longer dowel nails (6x60 or 8x60).
When mounting the guides to the load-bearing walls, we check the verticality using a building level
Let's form doorway, installing reinforced profile racks in the marked location. Let's measure the distance between the lower and upper parts of the frame contour, be sure to subtract 10 mm from this value and cut two strips of the CW profile of this size. There are several options for strengthening the parts - you can insert the guide profile into the rack profile and secure it on both sides with self-tapping metal screws (every 150–200 mm) or strengthen the CW strip with a dry wooden beam, selecting it in size, inserting it inside and also fastening it with self-tapping screws.
We insert the rack profile into the guide and fasten the structure with metal screws
Let's install the reinforced rack into the floor guide of the frame, bring the top of the strip into the ceiling (here a 10 mm gap comes in handy), check the strict verticality of the element with a level and secure the part with metal screws. Let's mount the second rack in a similar way.
When installing the rack, first install it in the lower guide, then carefully place it in the upper
We will set up the racks from the CW profile in increments of 600 mm, starting from any of the load-bearing walls. The installation process of these elements completely coincides with the installation of reinforced racks - we cut the parts into strips 10 mm less than the distance between the guides, we check the verticality with a level, and fasten them with metal screws. Note that the step size of 600 mm should be in the middle of the rack profile, since it is at this point that the sheathing sheets, which have a standard width of 1200 mm, will be joined.
The rack profile is attached to the guides with metal screws
Let's mount the horizontal lintel (upper beam) of the doorway. Let's cut a piece from the guide profile strip 200 mm longer than the distance between the reinforced posts. We measure 100 mm from each edge of the part and cut the side parts perpendicular to the base, leaving it intact. Carefully bend these segments inward and get a profile strip the right size with blind ends.
A wooden beam can be inserted inside the upper beam of the opening, further strengthening the structure
We will install the jumper between the pillars of the opening in the right place (taking into account the height of the door block, as well as the possibility of further installation of the finishing floor covering), check the horizontal level with a building level and secure the part with self-tapping metal screws. This structural element can also be strengthened by any of the methods mentioned.
If the height of the room at the installation site of the partition exceeds 3 m, you will have to manufacture and install additional stiffening ribs - transverse jumpers between the racks. The parts are made similarly to the upper beam of the doorway and are attached to the CW rack profile with metal screws.
Location option cross lintels in a frame more than 3 m high
Inside the finished frame of the partition we will install embedded elements from a profile, strong thick plywood or timber, to which we can attach hanging cabinets, heavy mirrors and sconces. After this, we will install the electrical wiring, placing it in a special corrugated pipe, and also lay all the necessary communications and pipelines.
Wooden beams need to be secured in places where heavy wall cabinets and other massive interior elements are installed.

At this point, the work on installing the frame is completed, you can move on to the next one, no less important stage creating a partition.

Sheathing the frame with installation of heat and sound insulation

In order for the structure to reliably store heat and protect peace from extraneous noise, its insides must be filled with special insulating material. Many years of practice show that an inexpensive but high-quality heat and sound insulator - mineral (stone or basalt) wool - is quite suitable for these purposes.

Mineral wool slabs will reliably retain heat and also insulate the room from extraneous noise

Expert advice: In order to fill the frame of an interior room partition, purchase mineral wool slabs or mats required thickness- material of this form of manufacture is easily cut to size and conveniently placed between the elements of the sheathing.

Before installing a layer of heat and sound insulation inside the structure, perform the following steps:

Let's cover one side of the frame with plasterboard, starting with a whole sheet from the wall where the 600 mm pitch for racks from the CW profile began. Remember that when installing gypsum boards, you must leave a gap of 5–10 mm at the junction of the slab with the ceiling and floor. The material tends to expand with changes in temperature and humidity, and “blind” installation in a spacer can lead to its deformation and the appearance of cracks.
Installation of the sheathing is carried out from a whole sheet from the wall where the set of racks began
We attach the cladding sheet to the profile by tightening the gypsum board screws around the entire perimeter in increments of 250–300 mm. We recess the heads of the self-tapping screws into the drywall to a depth of 0.5–0.8 mm.
The heads of self-tapping screws should be slightly recessed into the surface of the drywall
Using a jigsaw or knife, we cut the remaining sheathing elements to size and fasten them in such a way that the sheets join exactly in the middle of the rack profile.
We join the sheets of drywall exactly in the middle of the profile
Having closed one side of the frame, we lay the insulating material inside, cutting it with a small allowance and inserting it between the posts.
Place mineral wool slabs cut to size between the sheathing posts
We install the cladding on the other side of the partition, shifting the sheets by 600 mm (one rack) relative to the closed part of the surface - this method of fastening the cladding will significantly increase the strength of the structure.
We close the other side of the frame with gypsum board, shifting the sheet by one rack (600 mm)
We will strengthen the joints and edges of the sheets in the place where the doorway is installed with a corner profile.

Attention! When installing gypsum plasterboard sheathing, remember that the sheet must be fixed around the entire perimeter - for fastening the extensions or parts custom size you'll have to insert additional elements profile into the frame.

Final chords

Having finished covering the frame of the partition, we insert into it door block and solve the issue of finishing the drywall surface. If a strict vertical line was observed when installing the opening, installing the block will not cause any difficulties.

The issue of finishing the cladding surface is also resolved quite simply:

Now the partition with the door is ready for any type of finishing - it can be wallpapered, painted, applied ceramic tiles or decorative plaster- it depends only on your imagination and financial capabilities. For a more detailed introduction to the process of installing a frame structure covered with plasterboard, we bring to your attention the following video.

Video: How to build a partition from gypsum plasterboard and install a door

Perennial professional experience shows that our fellow citizens are increasingly choosing plasterboard for the installation of additional load-bearing walls or interior partitions in your home. This material is easy to use and allows you to create such structures without resorting to the help of a team of builders, whose services are not cheap. We hope that now you can do this work yourself without any problems.

However, starting to self-construction partitions, it is important not to lose sight of anything. After all, only in this case can you achieve proper quality and durability, avoid unnecessary worries during the installation process and save money.

Having decided on the place to build a plasterboard wall with your own hands, you can begin to create a list of materials and tools.

Having decided on the place to build a plasterboard wall with your own hands, you can begin to create a list of materials and tools. At this stage, you will need to make a number of measurements that will be needed in further calculations. Not only the height and width of the room where the partition is erected are important, but also the dimensions of the doorway and, if any, windows. Once all the dimensions have been recorded by you, you can arm yourself with a calculator and begin compiling a list of necessary materials.

After all, only in this case can you achieve proper quality and durability, avoid unnecessary worries during the installation process and save money.

Calculation of required materials

The basic list of materials is as follows:

guide and rack profile;
sealing tape;
self-tapping screws and dowels for fastening the profile;
drywall;
self-tapping screws for fastening drywall;
wooden beam to strengthen the profile around the doorway;
heat-insulating material;
sleeve for insulating electrical wiring.

Not only the height and width of the room where the partition is erected are important, but also the dimensions of the doorway and, if any, windows.

In order to prevent unnecessary expenses or purchasing an insufficient amount of material, it is advisable to preliminary calculations. With drywall everything is very simple: you need to determine the area of the future partition. To do this, we multiply the height of the room by its width at the location where the plasterboard wall is installed and subtract the area of the doorway from the resulting number. If a single-layer gypsum board sheathing is planned, then the result must be multiplied by 2, in the case of a two-layer one - by 4. For the wall, it is best to take standard sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm. Depending on the characteristics of the room, you will have to choose between simple and moisture-resistant plasterboard.

In order to prevent unnecessary expenses or the purchase of insufficient quantities of material, it is advisable to make preliminary calculations.

A guide profile is needed to connect the supporting part of the structure with the floor and ceiling. Based on this, we simply multiply the length of the future wall by 2 and get the required amount of profile. With a rack profile it is a little more complicated. The recommended distance between the racks is 60 cm, so you first need to divide the width of the room measured in cm by 60, thus finding out the required number of racks. The resulting number is then multiplied by the height of the room. To the resulting number, add two more wall lengths - these are lintels to strengthen the structure.

With drywall everything is very simple: you need to determine the area of the future partition.

If the plans include a door, then the racks adjacent to the door must be strengthened using a wooden beam of appropriate thickness. An alternative to timber can be a reinforced thick-walled AU profile. The quantity is simple: the length of the two posts adjacent to the door plus the width of the doorway.

A guide profile is needed to connect the supporting part of the structure with the floor and ceiling.

Preparing the tool

In order to avoid any problems in the process of constructing a plasterboard wall with your own hands, it is necessary to prepare in advance the necessary tools for carrying out the work. You will need:

roulette;
plumb and level;
metal scissors;
construction knife;
plane;
screwdriver;
grater.

Depending on the characteristics of the room, you will have to choose between simple and moisture-resistant plasterboard.

The key to success: correct marking and installation

The most important and crucial point in assembling the frame of the future partition is the marking. It's better to start from the floor. Then, using a plumb line, the walls and ceiling are marked. It is very important not to forget about several nuances:

When marking a plasterboard wall, you need to reference two walls perpendicular to it and average the indicators. Without doing this, you can end up with a room with visual curvature, because right angles are very rarely found in buildings and the wall opposite the partition can be oblique in relation to the other two.
The line you draw is a pointer for laying the guide profile; accordingly, the partition will protrude beyond this line by the thickness of the sheets of drywall, plaster and finishing material.

Working with metal profiles

Having finished with the markings, you can begin attaching the guide profile. Its installation is carried out using sealing tape. Fix the guide profile with dowels and screws. There should be an interval of no more than 50 cm between fasteners. The edges of the guide profile must be fixed.

The next stage of assembling the frame is installing and fixing the rack profile along the edges of the guide. Then front side The doorway pillars are installed next to each other. The distance between them should take into account the upcoming covering of the gypsum boards. Next, the remaining racks are installed, with the first of them located at a distance of 55 cm from the wall, the subsequent ones are placed at intervals of 60 cm.

Sheathing with plasterboard is not a difficult task, but it requires compliance with certain rules.

The distance between the posts is measured from their centers. It is recommended to first insert the supporting profile into the lower guide, then into the upper one. The racks are fixed only after checking its position with a plumb line or level. If there is a living space on the floor above, then it is advisable to use construction film when laying the profile. Its installation at the point of contact of two profiles will help to avoid the characteristic squeaking sound that occurs during a short-term increase in load.

The next step will be the installation of horizontal struts designed to strengthen the structure. To do this, you need to cut the profile to the required length, which is equal to the interval between the posts plus 30 cm. Then, on the base of the cut, marks are made on each side 15 cm from the cut line. After which the side of the profile is cut at an angle of 45 degrees, with a slope from the edge to the mark, and given it a U-shape. The workpiece is placed between the racks and fixed. The resulting ears are attached with outside bearing profile.

The tightness of the sheets at the joint depends on the correct cutting.

The horizontal lintels of door and doors are installed in the same way. window openings. However, if they are planned round shape, then it is necessary to secure an additional spacer between the post and the lintel at the desired angle.

Communications

An important point when creating a plasterboard wall is the installation of electrical wiring. First, it is threaded into a protective metal or non-flammable plastic corrugated sleeve. Then holes of the appropriate diameter are made in the supporting profile in the required places. In this case, it is important to bend the edges of the hole to one side and bend it in order to prevent damage to the wiring. Then the wires are pulled to the desired points in the structure.

Along the outlined line construction knife a layer of cardboard is cut, then the edge of the support is brought under the cut line, and the plaster is carefully broken off.

How to avoid mistakes?

Sheathing with plasterboard is not a difficult task, but it requires compliance with certain rules. So, in order to avoid the appearance of cracks as a result of subsidence, it is recommended to leave a 10-15 mm gap along the lower edge of the wall at the junction of the plasterboard sheets and the floor. And the screws are screwed into the gypsum board with a depth of 1 mm so that the head does not break through upper layer cardboard

The best option if you do not plan to mount heavy interior items on the walls.

The tightness of the sheets at the joint depends on the correct cutting. The best result will be with the following procedure. After placing the sheet on flat surface Measurements are taken and the boundary is marked with a pencil. A layer of cardboard is cut along the outlined line with a construction knife, then the edge of the support is brought under the cut line, and the plaster is carefully broken off. The sheet is then turned over and placed again with the cut line on the edge of the support. The second layer of cardboard is trimmed, but not all the way through, and carefully chipped away.

This is a fairly durable material and even large sheets can be laid independently, the main thing is to do it without jerking.

Single layer covering

This is the best option if you do not plan to mount heavy interior items on the walls. At possible wall mounting points lighting fixtures it is necessary to strengthen the drywall with plywood or build an additional spacer into the frame.

Then holes of the appropriate diameter are made in the supporting profile in the required places.

If you only have access to gypsum boards whose length is less than the height of your apartment, then this can be easily fixed without compromising the strength of the wall. When creating a wall with your own hands, you just need to take advantage of the experience of professionals. The space not covered by the sheet is sheathed with fragments of the required size. In this case, it is necessary to avoid the coincidence of seams at the same level, so throughout the entire wall you need to alternate whole sheets and their fragments. That is, if in the first row a sheet is sewn from below, and a fragment is sewn from above, then in next row There should be a fragment on the bottom and a whole sheet on top.

An important point when creating a plasterboard wall is the installation of electrical wiring.

All drywall joints must have a chamfer. If there is no thinning of the sheet towards the edge, then it must be formed using a plane. The edge of the sheet is thinned at an angle of approximately 22 degrees, but in such a way that at the cut line there is a decrease in thickness of no more than 4 mm. The edges of the gypsum boards adjacent to the borders of the wall, on the contrary, should be devoid of chamfer.

Double-layer sheathing

Double-layer plasterboard wall covering is practiced when it is necessary to install a high-strength partition. The rules for sheathing differ little from single-layer sheathing, with the only exception: the joints of plasterboard sheets in the bottom layer of sheathing do not need to be processed to form a chamfer. It will only be needed on the top layer sheets.

There should be an interval of no more than 50 cm between fasteners.

When covering the frame, it is also important to ensure that the seams do not match. To do this, the top layer is sewn offset by half the width of the sheet. In addition, it is important to increase the number of fixation points. Therefore, if with a single-layer sheathing it is sufficient to fasten with self-tapping screws at intervals of 25-40 cm, then with a two-layer sheathing it is necessary to fix it on the profile with an interval of 15-20 cm.

When working with gypsum board, avoid sudden movements.

Arch

If you want to make a door or window opening semicircular, you can bend the cut yourself required size. To do this, you will need a frame of the required radius, which can be made from scraps of the same drywall and bars.

The edges of the gypsum boards adjacent to the borders of the wall, on the contrary, should be devoid of chamfer.

Having prepared everything necessary, a fragment of gypsum board of the required size is cut off. Then one of its sides must be perforated using a needle roller and moistened with a sponge until a water mirror is formed. After this, the workpiece is moved onto a frame prepared in advance and smoothly bent. The edges are fixed and left in this position until dry. After an hour, you can remove the clamps and, if the workpiece does not feel loose to the touch, proceed with installation.

In addition, it is important to increase the number of fixation points.

At first plasterboard arch fix in the center and edges, then screw in self-tapping screws at all points of contact between the drywall and the frame. When first securing the sheet, it is important not to tighten the screws further, leaving the head 1-2 mm above the surface. The caps are buried after the sheet has completely dried.

It is important to carry out all work at a room temperature of no higher than 15 degrees.

Thermal and sound insulation

An empty drywall wall is like a drum that does not store heat. Therefore, immediately take care of heat and sound insulation. The required amount of material is calculated based on the area of the wall and the thickness of the profile. The choice of material depends entirely on your preferences and financial capabilities. Comparative characteristics the most common materials can help you navigate.

Having finished with the markings, you can begin attaching the guide profile.

Laying soundproofing material performed before covering the second side of the wall. It is important to compact the material, avoiding gaps between the frame and the layers of thermal insulation. Also, before installation, make sure that the electrical wiring is connected to all designated points on the wall.

Finishing

First, you need to lay a mounting grid along the joints of the gypsum boards and level the recess formed by the chamfers with the general level of the wall using starting putty.

The most important and crucial point in assembling the frame of the future partition is marking

It is recommended to strengthen the corner of the doorway using a construction corner. He is laid on starting putty and press tightly to the surface. Then the excess putty is removed with a spatula, simultaneously leveling the partition to the general level. It is advisable to treat the angle between the walls using a serpyanka.

In order to avoid any problems in the process of constructing a plasterboard wall with your own hands, it is necessary to prepare in advance the necessary tools for carrying out the work.

The last stage is the elimination of irregularities and roughness. To do this, you need to use finishing putty to treat all fixation points with self-tapping screws, simultaneously treating all cracks and chips that appeared during the work. When the putty has dried, it is important to level the surface using abrasive mesh and graters. If you plan to paint or glue the wall in the future thin wallpaper, then it is imperative to treat it with a primer.

When marking a plasterboard wall, you need to reference two walls perpendicular to it and average the indicators.

What you should pay attention to

It is important to carry out all work at a room temperature of no higher than 15 degrees. Even if you are working with waterproof drywall, take care to impregnate the surface with a waterproofing compound, at least in the area of the joints. When working with gypsum board, avoid sudden movements. This is a fairly durable material and even large sheets can be laid independently, the main thing is to do it without jerking.

If the plans include a door, then the racks adjacent to the door must be strengthened using a wooden beam of appropriate thickness.