Transferring the toilet from the riser to the side. Transferring the toilet bowl from the riser: to a minimum and long distance Is it possible to move the toilet bowl to the side

The transfer of the toilet is most often done due to the small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe bathroom. The owners have to use every centimeter of free space to expand the area. In most cases, this item of home toilet takes up quite a lot of space.

Now there are too many design ideas that are hindered by its location. Therefore, the toilet is deployed or transferred to a more suitable place.

Main reasons:

  • increase in the usable space of the room;
  • optimization of the area of ​​the bathroom;
  • implementation of design ideas;
  • installation of sanitary equipment for the child.

The main reason for the transfer is the release of usable space in the plumbing unit. The owners want to move the toilet in such a way that they can install a washing machine, sink and other convenience items. And just a free area makes the room spacious and comfortable. This is especially true of panel houses, old "Khrushchev" and similar buildings, where the bathroom has a small area or is combined with a bathroom.

Also, the transfer will be needed when installing the toilet right in front of the door. This is inconvenient for using the whole room and dangerous for the equipment, as the door hits the toilet body. Ultimately, cracks appear on it, which gradually destroy the toilet bowl. In this case, the owners may suffer additional losses.

A popular reason to move the toilet to another place is the implementation of design ideas. The ideas of famous designers involve moving equipment closer to the wall or to the opposite corner. This makes it possible to free up space in the room for the designer's creative thoughts.

Particular attention should be paid to the children's toilet bowl - a full-fledged sanitary equipment, which is smaller in size and has a smaller volume of a drain barrel. It is best to transfer such a toilet to the opposite corner.

Moving a toilet - possible risks

This type of work is associated with significant risks that the owners take on:

  • an increase in the length of the water pipes coming to the toilet;
  • increase the likelihood of blockages;
  • changing the slope of the pipeline;
  • the appearance of right angles in the water supply system;
  • violation of standards.

Even if the toilet is moved close to the wall, it must be taken into account that an increase in the piping system coming to this equipment can lead to problems. For example, when flushing water, a vacuum is formed, which will lead to the failure of the water seal in all plumbing located near the equipment. The process is accompanied by loud gurgling and unpleasant odors.

For the same reason, blockages appear. After all, the pipe coming to the toilet has increased in length. This creates conditions for a greater concentration of sewage. To avoid these phenomena, it is necessary to comply with the requirements of SNiP (building codes and regulations). With this approach, you will not only reduce the likelihood of breakdowns to a minimum, but also save your health and money.

When calculating the required slope of the pipeline, one should take into account the standard, which says that for all elements with a diameter of 100 mm, the presented indicator should be at least 2 cm per meter. If there are parts with a diameter of 50 mm, laying should be carried out with a minimum slope of 3 cm per meter.

A reduced slope value slows down the movement of wastewater and provokes the formation of stagnation of sewage in the pipeline.

A large slope is also undesirable. Water in this case will pass at an increased speed, which will lead to the appearance of solid contaminants. The gradual accumulation of such formations will increasingly obstruct the flow of water, leading to blockage of the pipeline.

Compliance with SNiP is a key success factor for toilet transfer. But when moving more than 1.5 m, these recommendations cannot be taken into account. If there is such a task, you need to install . This is also true at a shorter distance, if there is no desire or opportunity to work on adjusting the slope and installing additional pipes.

Various options for transferring the toilet from the riser

Transferring the toilet from the riser can be done in two ways:

  • moving equipment at a distance of 10 to 20 cm;
  • moving equipment over long distances.

Before starting work, it is necessary to make all the necessary measurements and dismantle the toilet bowl. These are mandatory measures that will allow you to successfully move plumbing equipment to the right place and distance.

Transferring the toilet to a distance of 10-20 cm

In both cases, it all starts with the dismantling of plumbing equipment. A complication here may be that the toilet is installed on cement or glue and its base is also smeared with cement. Movements should be as smooth and accurate as possible. Otherwise, cracks will appear on the device, which will lead it to complete disrepair.

If the device needs to be moved a short distance within 10-20 cm, then you need to shut off the water supply of the node and perform the following steps:

  • freeing the space between the sewer socket and the base of the equipment from putty (a strong screwdriver or chisel is suitable for this);
  • careful loosening of the toilet bowl (a wide chisel is clogged in different places of the base, the operation is repeated until the device begins to stagger);
  • raising the toilet bowl is carried out as follows: pushing the device towards yourself and removing the outlet from the socket of the sewer pipe (this should be done strictly along its axis), if the equipment is stuck, it is forbidden to pull with great effort, it is recommended to gently swing the device and pull again.

Please note that all dismantling activities must be carried out as carefully as possible with serviceable tools. The toilet must remain in working condition for proper subsequent installation in another place. Facilitates the work of regular fasteners and connection of the device to the sewerage system. The device is usually fixed with several screws.

For dismantling, it is enough to unscrew them and carefully remove the equipment from the mounting strictly on itself along the axis of the pipeline. Next, it remains to remove the descent.

Next, you should do the preparatory work to install the equipment in a new place. It all starts with a thorough inspection of the old flexible wiring. If it leaks or is not long enough, it must be replaced with a suitable analogue. If no defects are found on the part, we leave it for further use.

To connect the outlet of the device to the sewer socket, use a corrugation with two seals installed at its ends. To ensure greater reliability, it is recommended to fill the joint with sealant. Next, you need to prepare the fasteners. If they are made of steel, care should be taken that they are not pressed against the sanitary ware. For this reason, plastic washers should be installed.

  • On the floor where the fastening will be carried out, precise marking is carried out. Next, the required holes are drilled. If you are working with tiles, this material is drilled first (the diameter of the tile drill should exceed the same parameter for the concrete drill).
  • Cleaning the sewer socket and toilet outlet. These items must be completely clean and dry.
  • Applying silicone sealant to the inside of the corrugation and fixing it on the outlet of the device.
  • Installing the toilet in its place, fixing the fasteners in pre-drilled holes, followed by tightening.
  • There may be gaps between the floor and the equipment. They should be carefully covered with a solution. This also creates additional support, which will not allow the base to collapse under the influence of lateral forces.
  • Lubrication of the other part of the corrugation with silicone sealant and connecting it to the sewer socket.

How to move the toilet a long distance

To move the toilet to a distance exceeding the specified parameter, you should prepare for the alteration of the sewer. To do this, you need to increase the sewerage. In most cases, a plastic pipe with a diameter of 110 mm is used for this. The length, number and configuration of the auxiliary elements depend on the installation location.

The plastic pipeline can be mounted on the floor or on the wall with clamps. To lower the sewage system to the floor level, remove the outlet to the plumbing equipment from the tee or cross.

If the owners are dealing with plastic, it will not be difficult to do such procedures. Cast iron elements are best heated with a blowtorch or gas burner. This is done so that the cement putty spreads and the sealant thoroughly burns out.

If the connections are filled with sulfur, they also need to be heated with a lamp. This gives off very unpleasant odors. For safety, you should perform the procedure in a gas mask, in a well-ventilated area. In the event that everything is done correctly, it will be easy to remove the pipe from the socket. Next, you have to perform a series of standard actions for dismantling and installing the toilet bowl.

If the task is to simply turn the toilet at any angle, you must use a tee, corner pipes or corrugation. In the latter case, the work is simple, but the connection system will be short-lived. In addition, contaminants can periodically occur in the corrugation cavity, which must be disposed of.

A toilet in an apartment is usually a small room in which the owner tries to use every centimeter of space. To improve its functionality, it is sometimes necessary to move the toilet. You can entrust this procedure to a specialist, but it is easy to do it yourself if you have the skills to use the tool.

Why move the toilet?

There can be several reasons for moving a toilet.

  • Transfer of walls with the subsequent expansion of the room. The old location can be inconvenient for the owner.
  • The old toilet is being replaced with a new model. Often it comes in a different size or configuration.
  • When buying other plumbing fixtures (washing machine, shower room), you need to move the toilet, dismantling it and moving it to another place.

What can be faced with the transfer?

When redeveloping a room, it is easy to free up the necessary space, ensuring ease of movement. This may be the movement of plumbing equipment, that is, the transfer of the toilet to the side. But it is worth remembering a number of features, for example, with such manipulations, the likelihood of blockage increases when the plumbing is moved away from the riser.

And when flushing water, an unpleasant odor from the sewer and gurgling of water often begin. The longer the pipes, the higher the rarefaction of the air. Therefore, it can pluck, which contributes to the appearance of a stench.

To avoid such troubles, the owner of the apartment needs to pay attention to SNiP when transferring independently.


The shifted toilet is lifted, and the pipe is covered. Experienced plumbers recommend making a small pedestal for the toilet. But at the same time, it should be remembered that it is necessary that the updated pipeline be without right angles.

Dismantling

The easiest option is if the toilet is fixed with conventional fasteners and connected to a rubber drain cuff.

  1. The mount is removed. If plumbing fixtures are screwed to the wall, care must be taken not to damage them. When fixing it to the wall, it is enough to unscrew it with a key or a screwdriver.
  2. Gently push it towards you, moving in the direction of the socket. Pulling out the release. You can not shut off the water, the main thing is not to press the button to drain the water. When gluing or landing on cement, it is more difficult to remove the toilet bowl and it is important not to break it during dismantling.
  3. Use a screwdriver to remove the putty between the outlet and the socket. This is done slowly and carefully so that there is no damage.
  4. We drive a chisel under the base of the equipment. After making a few blows, we check whether the installed toilet is loosened.
  5. We carefully loosen it and sip it towards ourselves, after which it is necessary to pull the outlet out of the socket.

measurements

Before moving the toilet from the riser, we measure the distance to shift the plumbing. To do this, we measure the length from the riser one and a half meters, mark it with chalk, draw an arc.

We outline the place where we will put the toilet and install. It is desirable that this area is not further than the marked line. We measure the difference from the center of the pipe to the floor. The resulting value is compared with the inset point. If it is larger, then you will have to make a pedestal. The drain pipe is recommended to be raised 3 cm above the tie-in point.

We fix the toilet bowl on the made pedestal or fasten it to the floor. We make a connection to the drain, avoiding right angles as much as possible. It is not necessary to connect the water with a hard supply, it is enough just to connect it with a flexible hose.

In cases where the pipe needs to be extended more than 150 cm from the riser or SNiP is difficult to comply with, you can move the riser or make a forced sewer.

We put the toilet

If the toilet drains water well, but then it is not necessary to change the flexible connection.


Forced sewage

If the toilet is moved from the riser to the side, and the distance from the riser is too large, then it is recommended to install a forced sewer. It is done in cases where the usual drain configuration does not cope with its functions. Usually the owner of the apartment is recommended to install a sololift. This device is mounted in a cistern or taken out of the toilet. This is a pump with blades that grinds solid household waste or feces that enters the toilet.

It pumps wastewater, grinds waste and sends it to the drain. The sololift is easy to hide in a drywall construction due to the thickness of the pipe (18–40 mm). This device has high power, it can remove feces 100 meters horizontally.

For a sololift, the temperature of the wastewater is important, it should be no more than 50 degrees. More specific information can be found in the instructions for the purchased device model. This is important when the drain is formed not only from the water in the toilet, but also for the bidet, sink, shower or bath.

If you do not comply with the temperature requirements, you can damage the pump. Some models have features that allow you to pump hot water for up to half an hour, but it is not recommended to do this all the time.

Periodically, the owner needs to clean the device using a solution from deposits on the walls. It is not recommended to use organic solvents, they corrode the rubber seal. The pump is powered by the mains; when the power is turned off, it is useless.

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In standard-type apartments, the bathroom most often has the most limited area, it is for this reason that the owners have to use every free space as painstakingly as possible. As a result, very often there is a desire to move the toilet to another corner or turn it around. This event is responsible and difficult. In order to carry out the work, you can turn to specialists, or you can do it on your own, the main thing is to figure out how to do the job correctly.

If the toilet needs to be moved to a distance that does not exceed 20 cm, then the work will not be difficult. Placement of equipment can be any. The main thing is to know the minimum distance not only in relation to pipes or walls, but also for the sink. To move the toilet to the left or right, you must first remove its connection from the knees and the water supply. You should start by removing the old device. If the old toilet was installed on cement or special glue, then you will have to tinker with the elimination. If you do at least one wrong action, the toilet can crack. Of course, if you plan to install a new device, then there is no need to be careful, but if this is not the case, then you need to turn off the water and carefully dismantle.

It consists of 3 steps:

  1. We eliminate, putty putty in the space between the sewer socket and the outlet of the toilet bowl. In order to carry out this work, you can use a thin chisel or a flat screwdriver.
  2. Gently begin to loosen the toilet. Here it would be appropriate to use a wide chisel, which needs to be hammered into different places. Repeat this action until the device begins to shake thoroughly.
  3. We are trying to raise the device. To do this, gently pull it towards you and remove the release along the axis. Experts say that if the device does not give in, then you cannot use force, try to swing it even more and only then pull it.

The toilet bowl, which was installed on standard fasteners, and connected to the sewer with a rubber cuff, will be removed much easier. To remove it, you will need to remove the screws that are the main fastener. After that, we pull the device towards ourselves and take out its release.

If you want the device to be in working condition after removal, all manipulations must be carried out very carefully.

Also be extremely careful with the fixing putty when removing it. After all the dismantling work has been carried out, you can begin to prepare for the installation of the toilet bowl in a new place. Carefully inspect the flexible hose, if its length is insufficient or it leaks, then you need to replace it with a new one. If everything suits you, leave it in the old place. How the toilet looks in the corner, how to move it diagonally, lift it and put it on the podium, you can find out by looking at the photo, one day is enough for training.

What to do if there is an unpleasant smell in the apartment? A few tips for those who want to get rid of it:

We answer the question: how to raise the toilet higher above the floor

When it comes to repairs in the bathroom, many are faced with such a problem as changing the level of the exit and pipes for connecting plumbing. This is mainly because the floor level is changing and the plumbing is being rearranged. In any case, there is a task to raise the toilet bowl higher.

In order to cope with the problem of mismatching fittings, it is enough to purchase new adapters. If you have a problem with the mismatch of the axes of the pipeline, then it is better to use flexible hoses or organize new pipe gaskets. The coincidence of these holes determines at what level your toilet will be from the floor.

First you need to choose a place for installation and install the device on wooden bars in order to organize a new level.

Make sure that the horizontal position is observed and that all the pins and the drain pipe are aligned.

After that, remove the fixtures and measure the thickness of those linings that you put in order to create a new level for plumbing.

To replace the toilet lid so that the fasteners match. You will learn how to choose and install it correctly if you read our material:

In order to have an idea of ​​​​how to do the above, you must think through all the subtleties of the base in advance. You can use wood, but this will not be the best option, as the wood rots under the influence of condensate. It is best to use a concrete screed. In this case, screws and dowels will be needed for fastening. At the moment, it is widespread to mount the device to the base with glue.

Is it possible to make a large distance from the toilet to the riser

In order to expand the available space in the toilet room, many decide to take the step of moving the toilet from one side to the other. Transferring the device to another corner is possible, however, in order for it to continue to function fully, you need to know some points.

As for the pipeline, certain requirements are also put forward for it, which must be immediately taken into account.

For example:

  • You can use pipes with a diameter of 50 to 100mm, the most optimal are pipes with a cross section of 100mm;
  • The distance from the device to the riser should be a maximum of 1.5 m, if the length is longer, then the drain power from the barrel will not be enough to push through the waste and a blockage will appear;
  • Observe the correct slope, it depends on the section of the pipe.

If the slope is lowered, then there is a high probability of clogging, as the fluid flow is reduced. If, on the contrary, the slope is too high, then the flow rate will be excessive and solid parts will collect in the pipe, which will subsequently block the movement of water. How to move the toilet close to the wall, what is the maximum distance from the wall and how far can the toilet be from the drain, you can learn from the training video.

Installation of a toilet bowl in an apartment should be carried out with high quality. Full algorithm of actions and advice from professionals on the next page:

Changing the environment: how to turn the toilet 90 degrees

Sometimes there are situations when you want to completely change the design of the bathroom and purchase a new toilet, in which case you can turn the toilet 90 degrees. The work is very simple, the main thing is to know some technical nuances, rules and subtleties.

To carry out the rearrangement, it is not necessary to deal with the digestion of pipes.

Recently, the use of corner bends and corrugated pipes has become popular.

Corrugated pipes are best suited to deploy the toilet in an already installed place. If you not only deploy the device, but also transfer it to another place, then it is more expedient to use pipes of the required diameter, which are made of plastic. Using these methods, you can easily not only deploy, but also move the toilet to the desired location. But make sure that the corrugation is not subjected to excessive stretching, as this can lead to a break. This method will help not only to rotate the device, but also to rearrange it in the other direction, for example, closer to the sink, or move it as far as necessary.

How to move the toilet to another place (video)

As you can see from this article, moving a toilet is not such a difficult thing, of course, if you are convinced of your skills. If you are going to do this business for the first time, and are not aware of all the intricacies, then it is better to contact specialists who will not only carefully carry out the installation, but also organize careful dismantling, so that the old device will not be damaged and will last for a long time.

Human beings have a craving for comfort. He tries to improve his home, making it even more cozy and comfortable. Very often, such changes affect one of the most important places in every home - a bathroom. It has a small area on which homeowners want to place as many useful things as possible, so they strive to use every free centimeter. The result of design research is often the transfer of the toilet from the riser, the event is not easy and responsible. How to do all the work correctly? Let's figure it out.

At first glance, moving the toilet bowl some distance from the sewer pipe is not fraught with problems. However, it is not. Experts warn that the farther the equipment is installed, the longer the way sewage will have to overcome. Theoretically, in any case, they will “get” to the goal, but the likelihood of blockages increases many times over. Another problem may be the risk of severe vacuum in excessively long pipes. In this case, with each flush, it will suck water from nearby equipment, breaking the water seal. The process is accompanied by loud gurgling sounds and unpleasant sewer odors.

An ornate connection can cause frequent blockages

In order not to encounter such problems, the instructions of the current SNIP should be strictly followed. He does not recommend removing the device more than 1.5 m from the riser. A certain slope must be observed under which the pipe is laid. It is 2 cm per meter. This value is set for pipes with a diameter of 100 mm. If the part diameter is 50 mm, the slope should be 3 cm per meter. Increasing the recommended settings will cause the water to leave too quickly, not capturing solid contaminants that may accumulate in the pipe. Reducing the slope will reduce fluid velocity, which can also lead to blockages.

Moving the toilet is often the only solution to optimize bathroom space.

It turns out that the new place will have to be raised. Depending on the distance from the riser, a decent amount can be obtained. In addition, do not forget about the pipe going to the equipment, it will need to be somehow masked. Given the diameter, it may be necessary to raise the floor to a significant height or equip a special podium. Another nuance: lay a new pipeline without right angles. If this is not possible, instead of one 90° angle, make two 45° angles. Otherwise, the risk of blockages increases dramatically.

To ensure the desired slope, you have to make a rise

Despite the fact that all the above requirements are rather troublesome to fulfill, they are mandatory when transferring plumbing equipment. But these recommendations do not save if you want to install the device at a great distance from the riser, or if for some reason you do not want to scrupulously fulfill all the requirements of SNIP. Either the transfer of pipes, which is extremely difficult, or the use of special equipment designed for arranging forced sewage will help.

Devices for forced disposal of waste

This is a system designed to work when traditional gravity-fed construction fails. For its arrangement, a device called a fecal pump or sololift is used. The equipment is quite compactly placed inside the tank or behind it. It is a pump equipped with special chopper blades. It pumps out effluents, grinds solid impurities, and sends the resulting mass to the right place.

At the same time, it is very important that the diameter of the pipe used can be small - from 18 to 40 mm, which makes it possible to easily hide them, for example, behind a plasterboard wall. The power is quite high, which makes it possible to divert wastewater to a distance of about 100 m horizontally and about 5-7 m vertically. The latter may be relevant if the level at which the bathroom is located is lower than expected. Installation is quite simple, without the use of additional construction work.

Compact macerator pump located behind the toilet

The pump has temperature limits for waste water. The maximum values ​​vary from +35C to +50C. This information should be looked for in the passport. It will be relevant only if, in addition to the toilet bowl, a shower, bidet, washbasin, etc. are also connected to the pump. For this, an additional inlet is provided on the body. If the requirements for the temperature of the pumped liquid are not observed, the device fails. In some models, you can find special short-term protection that allows you to pump hot drains for about 30 minutes, but this cannot be done all the time.

Types of fecal pumps.

The equipment is very easy to maintain. All that is required of the owner is to periodically clean. To do this, a special solution is poured along with water, which destroys deposits on the walls. It is important to ensure that a solvent of organic origin does not get along with the drains, the substance can corrode rubber seals. The main disadvantage is considered to be its volatility, which does not allow the mechanism to function during a power outage.

How to move the toilet from the riser: a description of the process

The recommendations for transfer in the technical part are very little different from the instructions for connecting equipment. The only difference will be in the process of installing a longer pipeline connecting the device to the sewer. But the installation of a chopper pump differs in some nuances that are worth considering in more detail. Purchase a device with an inlet diameter that matches the diameter of the toilet outlet. Otherwise, the installation will simply be impossible.

The diameter of the inlet pipe must match the dimensions of the outlet

Competent installation of equipment is carried out according to the manufacturer's instructions. It includes the steps:

  • We insert supply pipes or connecting elbows into the nozzles.
  • We install the pump behind the toilet, securely fasten it with screws to the floor. For this, there are special holes on the body of the device.
  • Pipes leading to the pump must be laid with a slope of 3 cm per meter. Thus, the flow of wastewater by gravity will be ensured.
  • We connect the outlet sewer pipe to the outlet.
  • Models with a separate ventilation outlet require the removal of the ventilation duct above the roof ridge of the building. It is mounted after the device is connected. There are simpler options that ensure the absence of unpleasant odors using a carbon filter built into the housing.

Models with built-in charcoal filter are easier to install

  • We connect the equipment to the network. If the model is equipped with a plug, then it is connected to electricity. If not, then it joins the network through an RCD machine.
  • Connections of pipeline elements are carried out by welding, soldering or adhesive joints. All adjustable bends of inlet and outlet pipe elements should be as smooth as possible.
  • The device removes sewage and in a vertical plane. If necessary, the vertical section of the pipe must be equipped no further than 30 cm from the outlet. Otherwise, it will be impossible to ensure normal pressure inside the pipeline.
  • At the outlet of the grinder, we must install a check valve, which is necessary to prevent the return flow of sewage in the event of an emergency.

Any redevelopment, no matter how simple it may seem, must be carried out extremely competently. This is relevant for cases when the typical location of plumbing equipment changes. Everything must be carefully calculated and accurately executed. Even small mistakes can lead to chronic problems in the form of constant blockages and bad smell from the bathroom. Those who do not have experience in carrying out work of this kind, it is best to contact specialists. They will consider specific conditions, give recommendations on the purchase of the necessary equipment, and carry out it qualitatively. Only in this case, it is possible to guarantee the good work of the toilet, which will be installed where the owner of the home has planned.

In standard apartments, the bathroom occupies a small area. The owners of the premises resort to various tricks so that every centimeter of the area is used with maximum benefit. Therefore, it is not surprising that as a result of design research, it becomes necessary to move the toilet from the riser.

The event is not easy. The easiest way is to turn to specialists in the plumbing field, who probably know how to move the toilet to another place. But for this you will have to adapt to their work schedule, change your plans. And, perhaps, even refuse important events. Despite the complexity of the case, you can do it on your own. The main thing is to understand the essence of the issue and correctly perform all the necessary work.

Transferring the toilet: possible risks

At first glance, there is nothing easier than moving the toilet to another place, fixing it there and starting to fully use it. But moving the plumbing unit away from the riser provokes an elongation of the sewer pipes suitable for it. Which, in turn, causes excessive discharge during flushing and failure of the water seal in other plumbing fixtures. And this process is always accompanied by gurgling sounds and unpleasant sewer odors.

Also, moving the toilet from the riser often causes blockages. Since the length of the transport pipes increases, automatically lengthening the path of sewage. Theoretically, with the correct installation of the pipes and regardless of their length, the drains in any case reach the outlet into the general sewer. But, as practice shows, the longer the pipes, the higher the percentage of blockages. According to the requirements of SNiP, a plumbing fixture should be installed no further than one and a half meters from the riser. This is the only way to avoid the above problems.

An important indicator when moving the toilet to another place is compliance with the slope of the sewer pipes. According to the rules, if the diameter of the parts is 100 mm, the slope should be 2 cm per meter. With a diameter of 50 mm, the slope is 3 or more centimeters per meter. If these rules are not followed, the speed of effluent transportation decreases, and blockages may appear.

Sometimes, to comply with the pipe slope rule, it is required to install a plumbing fixture on a pedestal or mount a wall-hung toilet bowl. Both options have a place to be, but the second requires the installation of a box on the wall for installation and concealment of water and sewer pipes. Therefore, the easiest way is to use the first option - installing equipment on a pedestal.

And one more important point. If you want to minimize the likelihood of blockages, then the transport sewer channel from the toilet to the riser should be laid in a straight line and not have right angle turns. If such laying of the pipeline is not possible, in places of sharp bends of 90 0 two 45 0 corner pipes are installed.

How to move the toilet: complex and simple ways

Optimizing bathroom space requires moving equipment. Within the rules and without harsh consequences, it can be moved to a different distance (within one and a half meters) and rotated. Depending on the range of transfer, a simple and complex method is distinguished.

The easy way

It involves moving the toilet to the side for a short distance - 15 - 20 cm. To do this, you must carefully dismantle the old device. Since, if it is planted on glue or mortar, and the outlet neck is smeared with cement, one careless movement can cause cracks on the toilet. Therefore, turning off the water, carefully and carefully:

  • we clean the space between the socket and the outlet from the layer of putty with a narrow chisel and a strong screwdriver;
  • with the application of a little effort, we try to loosen the toilet bowl. For which you may need the help of a wide chisel - it must be carefully hammered in different places under the base of the bowl. We loosen until the equipment begins to swing freely;
  • lift the toilet. Grabbing the rim of the bowl of the device with our hands, we first direct the efforts towards ourselves, and then also carefully, along the axis of the sewer pipe, we try to remove the outlet socket from it. If the device is stuck, you should not make much effort, you can break the toilet. It is better to return to the second paragraph of the instruction, and swing the device again.

If your device is installed on standard fasteners and connected to the pipe by means of a rubber cuff, you are very lucky. Since in order to dismantle it, it is enough to unscrew the standard fasteners to the floor and remove the outlet by pulling the device towards you and turning it along the axis of the pipe.

After dismantling the device, you can begin to prepare for its installation in a new location. We examine the existing flexible supply for integrity, if necessary, change it to a new corrugation. The design of the corrugation assumes the presence of sealing rubber rings at both ends. But in order to avoid the possibility of leaks, you should still use silicone sealant. You should also take care of special fasteners, they are steel and equipped with plastic washers. Then we proceed to install the device:

  • mark with a pencil the attachment points on the floor. We drill holes: if the floor is concrete, we use a drill with a pobedite coating, if it is a tile, we take a special drill of a larger diameter than the fasteners;
  • we clean the toilet outlet and the socket from dirt, the old layer of cement, dust and other layers, wipe them dry;
  • we apply silicone sealant on one side of the corrugation to the sealing ring, and pull it onto the toilet bowl socket;
  • install and fix the device using prepared screws with plastic washers. Tighten carefully;
  • to create additional support, we coat the gaps formed between the floor and the base with cement;
  • at the end of the installation, we lubricate the sealing ring on the other side of the corrugation with a sealant, and insert the corrugation into the socket of the sewer pipe.

A difficult option, or how to move the toilet from the riser by 30 centimeters or more

If, according to the design project, it is required to move the toilet bowl to a greater distance than the length of the corrugation allows, then you will have to remake the sewer. Dismantling and subsequent installation is carried out according to the same scheme as in the first option. The differences are in the need to increase the sewer pipeline. Most often, pipes of 110 mm are taken for this event. The length and number of elements, as well as the configuration of the fittings, directly depends on the new location of the plumbing fixture. Laying of plastic pipes is carried out either on the floor, or they are mounted to the wall using special clamps.

What should you pay attention to?

To lay the sewer at the floor level, it is necessary to remove the outlet to the toilet from the tee or cross. With plastic pipes, everything is simple (everything is easily removed and cleaned). If the parts are cast iron, then you will have to resort to using a gas burner or a blowtorch to destroy the sealant and cement putty by heating. After that, you can easily remove the pipe from the socket.

It is recommended to start laying a new pipeline from the riser, observing the slope rules. The installation of plastic pipes in a cast-iron socket involves the use of a special cuff-seal. For better sealing, lubricate its joint with silicone glue.

The easiest way to connect to a new pipeline is with a corrugation, providing free access to it to control integrity. Instead of a corrugation, you can install a special adapter pipe, which will provide a more durable connection.