Why exactly for housewives? Because a real man, the head of the family, he already knows all this and knows how. He doesn't need instructions. Maybe he will not bother with all this antimony at all, but will simply stop by on the way from work to the store and buy a ready-made rack. Housewives are also different. Some of them have no time at all, or "not in the rank" to engage in carpentry work. But there are those who find it easier to do it themselves than ... well, you know. In this article, I set up three experiments at once. Each is important and interesting in its own way. Do you want to participate?

We will not only make a wooden shelving unit

At first, I will try to determine for myself whether a housewife can make a rack with her own hands. We will not set super tasks. Our product will stand modestly somewhere in a closet or garage. None of the guests and other distinguished visitors, most likely, will even see it. As such, we're not going to make it super perfect. I will show you what materials and tools will be required, in what sequence and what will need to be done.

Let's take my own product that I built the other day as an example. Tired, you know, when there are some boxes and bags everywhere. That would be to remove them somewhere out of sight. And for the instrument, shelves would not hurt. In short, I, as usually happens, tested the technology on myself. Having received a completely acceptable result, I decided to spread the experience.

I must say right away that I made it in the shape of the letter "L", but for simplicity, we will consider the construction of a straight product 178 cm long, 200 cm high, 60 cm deep.

Secondly, it is necessary to test in practice the widespread belief that making such a thing yourself is cheaper than buying a finished one. For this, I specially once again went to the IKEA and OBI stores, photographed samples of finished shelving and materials with prices. Having an idea of ​​what is needed, we can easily calculate how much it will cost us such a rack made by ourselves. So let's see what comes out cheaper.

Thirdly, I decided purely for myself to find out what would happen to the pieces of wood if they were not processed at all, or covered with impregnation, or varnish. I specially selected 8 pieces of wooden lining, which remained after the construction of the rack, and processed them with different compositions. Let's see what happens to them over time. And then, perhaps, all these impregnations are sheer swindle? We will dwell on this in more detail at the end of the article.

So, we decided on the goals, now let's go to the store

What racks are sold in stores

I confess that it was not possible to go around all the shops. Therefore, here we will look at examples from the IKEA store (please do not consider it an advertisement, although I really like this store).

First, let's look at the products assembled on the basis of metal rails attached to the wall. For example, these are:

As you can see, the whole structure is hanging on the wall. There are 3 rails to which brackets are attached, to which shelves, baskets, etc. are attached. The variety of options for hanging elements is simply amazing:

You yourself collect the necessary elements, from which you can then make at least a wardrobe, at least shelves for a laundry, at least a workplace with a table. It would seem that this is the solution. Everything looks very neat, delicate, at any time you can outweigh the shelf higher or lower, if something is not enough, over time you can buy it.

This is definitely a very good option. Especially for the pantry. In a sense, it is not always possible to put this in a room, but in an auxiliary room - it is!

Another big plus of this option: you can really buy everything you need in parts, as funds become available. Moreover, it is over time, in the process of use, that an understanding arises that what exactly what you need to have in the rack. Therefore, you can immediately buy only a few basic parts, and buy the rest later, if necessary.

Everything is very cool. But when I decided to estimate the total amount of the set I needed, it became somehow uncomfortable:

This is exactly what I need - a shelf in the shape of the letter "L":

If you have the opportunity to buy such a thing, then you don't need to read further. Buy is a great thing.

I am moving to another department where wooden shelving is sold. There are a lot of them, so I will show only a couple of them that I "looked at".

Here is an option for 4550 rubles.

The thing is not bad, but the width is too small. I need a full wall - 187 cm.

Here is a corner option. Price - 7490 rubles.

I do not consider it successful. The shelves are narrow, the side modules are low, a lot of space above them will remain unused. In addition, the strength of the horizontal corner elements on which the shelves lie is questionable. They have no vertical bearing support. In my humble opinion, they will collapse if you put something heavier.

Here's a better option:

Price - 4960 rubles. The shelves are deep, the whole structure is high enough to make optimal use of the entire height of the room - 3 meters. The width is only insufficient, but we are not going to buy it. Let's just take this construction as a basis. After all, in fact, there is nothing so complicated here. See for yourself:

There are wooden vertical bars with horizontal bars attached to them and shelves on them. That, in fact, is all. Of course, the IKEA product will turn out to be more accurate and functional. After all, any shelf can be rearranged over time to a different height. Fortunately, each of them is attached to the verticals separately:

It could be done this way too, but we will simplify the construction a little. It will not work out so universally, but it will be simpler and cheaper.

Well? The idea is clear, let's go to collect materials.

What is required to make a rack at home

The very first thing is to decide on the amount of material you need.

In order to build a straight rack (we'll talk about the L-shape later), we need:

1. 8 vertical supports about two meters long,
2. 12 horizontal bars approximately 55 cm long,
3. about 15 planks 187 cm long (along the length of the wall), which will become shelves (their number depends on the width),
4. 16 metal corners with holes,
5. 40 screws (you can take more of them, since some of them will be trite during work),
6. 60 thin nails for fixing shelves,
7. impregnation can for wood (you can do it, but I would recommend),
8. a can of varnish (optional).

In addition, you will need tools:

• hammer,
• screwdriver or screwdriver,
• hacksaw or,
• brush.

I want to say right away that the material can also be different. For example, you can take such beautiful cubes with rounded corners as vertical racks:

If we built our shelving on them, it would turn out even more beautiful than in IKEA. But the cost of each such two-meter rack would immediately knock us out of the budget:

After all, we need 8 pieces (and for me to build an L-shaped rack - ten in all). This immediately turns out to be 2792 rubles. Consider that you haven't bought anything yet, but the "treshnitsa" are no longer there. With some regret, I had to abandon this beautiful option.

There are even more beautiful materials. For example - assembly lags:

Unfortunately, in the photo they turned out to be unprepossessing, but in reality they are immaculate dark brown bars, pasted over with some kind of film. Nice to pick up. Alas, the price is appropriate:

It would be a pleasure to work with them. And the rack would turn out to be such that you can even put it in the upper room. But the price of the product would be too high.

At the other pole, there are ordinary unplaned bars with splinters. If we were to make verticals out of them, then we would spend only 440 rubles on all 8 pieces. All eight! They cost only 55 rubles apiece. Only the view from our rack will turn out to be terrible. For a barn, in principle, it will do. But for the home pantry ... However, of course, it's up to you to decide.

Personally, I settled on the following bars:

Their price is 105 rubles apiece. Therefore, for 8 pieces you will have to pay 840 rubles. What do you think? Considered if make a rack with your own hands, then it will turn out at all is free? Alas, this myth needs a serious rethinking for a long time. Of course, you can go to the forest, chop logs there, bring (I wonder, on what?), Cut perfectly straight bars out of them with a longitudinal saw at home ... continue further? And what? But it will be free. Especially if the foresters don't catch :).

Another thing is that there is always a place where you can buy the same thing at a cheaper price. But for free ... Let's not talk about it.

The main thing is, when you choose the bars, you need to carefully check them:

• for cracks, you don't need them,
• for the presence of large knots - this is a place of potential kink,
• straightness

Don't be surprised about the latter. Other bars in the store were bent like a Robin Hood bow. Well, maybe not so much, but the curvature was visible to the eye. Therefore, when you choose the cubes, each should be put on the floor (I hope it is even in the store). First on one side, then on the other. The straighter the workpiece, the less installation problems. The task is to collect 8 at least relatively straight bars. And be glad that you don't need eighty of them.

So, we already have the first purchase in our cart.

Now you need to take care of the horizontal bars on which the shelf boards will lie. First you need to think about how deep your rack will have. For example, I made it 60 cm deep so that you can put car tires down. Much depends on how much free space is available in the room.

You can try to look for blocks of the right size, or you can buy long ones and cut them yourself. It will come out cheaper. Let's say, here is such a two-meter bar

costs only 55 rubles:

It will make 4 magnificent cross-pieces ... Why four, you ask. After all, the stated shelf depth is 60 cm. If you divide 2 meters by 4, you get 50 cm each. I answer: you counted correctly. But the whole point is how exactly to fasten these cross-members. Their length will indeed be 50 cm. But together with the thickness of the vertical bars, the overall depth of the product turns out to be 4.7 + 50 + 4.7 = 59.4 cm. For even counting - 60!

The only exception will be the uppermost cross-members. They will lie directly on the supports from above, so their length will be greater by the width of the supports = almost 60 cm.

Based on this, and given that we are still discussing a straight rack, we need 4 of the mentioned two-meter bars for a total cost of 220 rubles.

Now we need to take care of the planks for the shelves. The options here may be different. For example, I bought a regular lining for this:

It is clear that one separate plank does not look very solid. To tell the truth, I myself doubted whether the lining shelf would withstand heavy loads. Practice has shown that it withstands perfectly. The fact is that each shelf consists of 5 planks, and the distance between the supports is quite small.

Of course, if you stand on such a shelf with your feet, the result will be obvious. But boxes, bags and other things fit quite well on my finished product. So we boldly put two packages of wooden lining on our trolley. Our check immediately increases by 832 rubles.

Note that 216 rubles is per square meter. The cost of packaging is 416 rubles. Try to take the lining that is long enough to leave as little waste as possible. For example, the length of each shelf in my case was 187 cm. Therefore, the 2-meter lining was the best choice. Others were 2.5, 3 meters long and more expensive.

You can take the most common corners:

If you wish, you can buy painted:

It might make some sense to buy corners with longer planes. The point here is not even a greater bearing capacity. It will just be easier to screw them on. Especially if you are not going to do it with a screwdriver, but with an ordinary screwdriver.

All of these options are more expensive. Which one to stop at is up to you. I bought the cheapest corners at 9 rubles apiece. Later, when I began to screw them on, I was surprised to notice that they, it turns out, came to my dacha from distant India:

You will not say anything, probably, this is indeed the closest place where they are produced. But now, when one of the guests dares to let go of some echidna regarding my product, I will stick such a label right on his forehead (I did not throw them away on purpose) and tell him that I made a rack from imported components :)

As for the screws, these are suitable or a little longer:

I did not dare to take shorter ones - they may not hold the shelf. With these screws, we will fasten vertical racks and horizontal shelf holders by means of corners.

Carnations are needed in order to fix the lining boards, which will become the planes of the shelves. Of course, you can also do this with screws, but there are at least three reasons why I would still recommend studs.

• It is faster to hammer in a nail than to tighten a screw. There are certainly exceptions to this rule. It is necessary to make an amendment to the crooked hammer and other annoying circumstances.
• If you screw 5 screws in a row into a wooden block, then it can simply crack along. Carnations are thinner than screws and are much less likely to chip. Although, of course, if you try and bang as much as you can, saying "I am the strongest", then anything can happen.
• Carnations are cheaper than screws.

True, comparing the price tags in the photo, you can easily question the last item on the list. I agree, there was simply no smaller package with nails, and they are really cheaper.

Now we need an impregnation for the wood. If you do not process it, then over time our product will darken, some bark beetles may attack it, or even the processes of decay will begin. So I personally "impregnated" my pieces of wood. Whether you do the same is up to you. Just in case, I will show an example of impregnation that would suit us:

I confess honestly. I did not buy such a jar. I still have an impregnation from the last big story with painting the floor and stairs. By the way, with the help of impregnation, you can paint the pieces of wood in a darker color. In the previous photo, there are two color options. There are others.

In addition to impregnation, you will need a brush. There is no need to buy something particularly expensive here. Any one with a width of 4-6 cm will do.For example, like this:

I can already hear the screams that the price is too high. That the same brush can be bought three times cheaper. Agree. Just be prepared for the fact that the bristles from a cheaper analog will come out three times faster :). You know how nice it is: you paint with one hand, and remove the hairs from the surface with the other! Almost a creative process.

On this optimistic note, we finish the collection of materials and roll our cart to the checkout. If we take everything to a minimum, then the purchase price is as follows:

1. vertical racks - 840 rubles.
2. horizontal bars - 220 rubles.
3. lining - 832 rubles.
4. corners - 144 rubles.
5. screws - 79 rubles.
6. nails - 99 rubles.
7. impregnation - 399 rubles
8. brush - 149 rubles.

TOTAL: 2762 rubles.

Basically, we bought everything we need. At the same time, they kept within an amount much less than the cost of the smallest rack from an IKEA store.

Let's see what we could make of white metal structures for this amount. Remember, I showed you at the beginning of the article:

Each vertical 192 cm high costs 400 rubles. We have them for a rack width of 187 cm. At least three are needed; We no longer have 1200 rubles.

Next, you need brackets on which the shelves will be hung. Suitable 58-centimeter ones cost 200 rubles per pair. In order to make a rack of the same configuration as we get, you will need 5 pairs of brackets with a total cost of 1000 rubles.

In total, we would get a check for 7900 rubles. not counting the hardware to hang it all on the wall.

It is important to consider one more point. Some walls in apartments and country houses are made so that heavy weights cannot be hung on them. Will collapse. And certainly at night, scaring all the household to death. Our rack will be on the floor. I think this is his big plus.

We start to make a rack with our own hands

The first thing to do upon arrival home is to adjust the length of the lining in accordance with the length of the future product. In my case, the rack had to stand from wall to wall, therefore, a small extra piece had to be sawed off from each of the 15 boards:

Best suited for this. In his absence, you can use an ordinary hacksaw for wood. Of course, you will carry around with it longer, but you will become stronger and more enduring, perhaps lose weight due to increased physical activity.

Of course, you can paint each piece of wood separately, turning it and carefully painting over from all sides, including the ends. But with such an "individual approach", the work can, to put it mildly, tighten up. Therefore, I propose to do the following:

Put several pieces of wood in a row (lining or verticals with horizontals) and paint them as if you were painting a solid surface. You will see that the speed of work will increase significantly. When one surface has been processed, you can turn the pieces of wood and paint them on the other side, then on the third, etc.

After that, it is necessary to dry the impregnated parts properly. This is best done outdoors. Unfortunately, impregnation is a rather aromatic thing. Moreover, her smell is not so pleasant. For example, wood varnish is also not sugar, but it does not cause such disgust.

Therefore, if there is such an opportunity, it is better to dry the pieces of wood in the yard or on the balcony:

It is important that the products dry as little contact with other objects as possible. For example, it is undesirable to lay them flat on the asphalt. Moreover, you should not put them on top of each other - then you will not tear them apart, and they will dry for a long time.

For example, I put the verticals on a regular trough. Dried perfectly. And fast enough. Already after four hours you can take them with your hands and start assembling the rack. But for more confidence it is better to wait a little longer. The impregnation jar is marked with the time for complete drying. It took me 24 hours.

The main thing is that it doesn't rain during this time :)

When the impregnation is dry, we begin the final assembly of the product.

We must immediately decide at what height the shelves will be located. I proceeded from the fact that under the lowest of them you could put 4 winter tires for a car. You must decide for yourself at what level each shelf will be. By the way, you can easily make not three, like mine, but four shelves. In this case, you will need more material, but such a rack will be more spacious if you do not have too large things.

At the selected levels, we fix the corners:

There are four such "flyers" to be made. Only in the outermost of them can the second horizontals be screwed on immediately. For the middle ones, we will do this when the planks of the lower shelf are put in place and secured. Our design will look terrible at first. You may be visited by the thought that in vain you got involved in this whole story. It was necessary not to grovel, but to go and buy a normal ready-made rack.

Indeed, such a view with vertical sticks constantly striving to fall will drive anyone into depression:

Yeah. It's time to break all this misunderstanding, and the one who incited you on an adventure, that is, me, to brand with shame and in every possible way to call in the comments.

Your will. But I would suggest that you keep working. Moreover, we have already done the most important and difficult thing. There are mere trifles left.

By the way, do you know why we didn't attach all the horizontal beams at once? It would look quite logical, and the structure would be much stronger, and not shake like jelly.

But I would like to see how you shove in place the planks that form the bottom shelf. As a reminder, they are wall-to-wall length. So if you decide to apply engineering ingenuity and have already screwed on the upper contours, unscrew. You can attach them in place only after you get something similar to the design in the picture above.

The next step is to attach the planks of the first shelf to the horizontal lines. Let me remind you that this is done using ordinary nails:

As a result, we should get this:

Look: something is starting to emerge, isn't it? And you wanted to break. It's also good that I, as I hope, managed to persuade you to wait with the crash and continue with the build.

I pay special attention to the stands for the rack legs. I made them from laminate scraps. They not only protect the floor from damage, but also serve as a leveling tool if the evenness of the floor raises some doubts.

Placing where one, and where two boards, we can give our product a more or less vertical position. Of course, it would be much cooler to use furniture legs with adjustable height. But they are not cheap, and we need 8 of them. So I personally used laminate trims.

Next, our task will be to "create" the second shelf. To do this, we fasten horizontal bars to the pre-installed corners and lay the lining boards on them. At the same time, you can immediately screw on the upper horizontals. Ideally, it should look like this:

Alas, in practice everything does not always turn out as smoothly as you want. Ideally, the lining planks should lie on all four horizontal bars. In other words, all these bars must be in the same plane. For example, like this:

I did just that, but still one horizontal for some reason turned out to be lower than necessary. Look, the boards do not reach her and hang in the air:

I don’t know how it happened. But, I thought that if this happened to me, then it may well happen to you. Let's see how to get out of this situation.

There are two approaches. On the one hand, you can put a strip of the same under the boards. I had a lot of his scraps left, so I just had to cut out a slat of the right size and slip it under the shelf.

But I decided to go the other way. This path is good if you missed the measurement for a significant distance. For example, half a centimeter or more. In this case, you just need to unscrew the horizontal and screw it "higher". It is advisable not to make a new hole directly above (under) the old one - if you overdo it, the vertical bar may crack.

It is better to screw the horizontal line with a slight shift to either side:

After all the planks of the second shelf are laid horizontally properly, you can fasten them with studs.

Well, and then, as I hope, everything is already clear. The final touch will be the installation of the third shelf. I don't think it's worth describing the whole process in detail. The only thing that can be said is that there may be not five, but six boards on the top shelf. It turned out to be wider. One extra plank will add durability to the entire shelf.

Let's take a look at the result of our work:

There are two more contours in this picture as my particular shelving will continue along the right wall. If you also want to make an L- or even a U-shaped rack made of wood, then you will need additional materials. Which and how much, I think, you will decide for yourself by analogy with what has already been done.

Well, here we are with you and finished our fruitful and multifaceted activity. As a result, we have a ready-made wooden shelving unit made by hand. Perhaps for some it will be the first experience of creating furniture from scratch. If everything turned out more or less smoothly, then it is quite possible to be proud of the result and even outline new projects. For example, you can buy furniture boards and make a simple wardrobe, then a whole furniture wall, a kitchen set ...

I hope I was able to give you step-by-step instructions, starting from the choice of materials to some logical conclusion. In my humble opinion, performing step by step, almost any person, regardless of gender and age (except for very babies), can do something similar.

Impregnation and varnish for wood. Are they needed?

In the end, we can only find out if we have wasted time and money on impregnating our wooden parts. Unfortunately, the result of the experiment will not be ready until some time later.

The bottom line: I took 8 small pine pieces of the same type, scraps from the lining. I did not paint the first two with anything (B / O - without processing), I just left it as it is. The second pair was covered only with impregnation (P). The third - only with varnish (L). The fourth - first by impregnation, then varnish (P + L).

It turned out two sets of prototypes. The first one is lucky: I'll put it somewhere at home in the interior:

The second one will be placed outside on rain, snow and sun.

It often happens that due to the lack of a specific place for storing things, an apartment or house gradually begins to get littered. In this case, a shelving unit can be a simple and practical way to solve the problem. It will be useful not only in the pantry, as is commonly believed. With it, you can divide a room into several zones, arrange tools in the garage or things on the balcony in an orderly way.

The manufacture of a rack does not require special knowledge and skills, expensive materials and tools. It is made quickly, and most importantly, it does not require significant cash costs, like buying a store analogue or a new cabinet.

Required materials and tools

For the manufacture of the simplest rack, you need to prepare the following materials and tools:

• slats (for slats and crossbars);
• timber;
• shelves (you can use edged boards, MDF boards, chipboard, laminated boards, plywood, glass, natural wood or plastic);
• screws and dowels;
• screwdriver (screwdriver);



• electric jigsaw;
• roulette;
• level;
• chalk or soft pencil.



Shelving boards

The material from which they will be made is selected taking into account the operating conditions of the future structure. If the rack will be located in a room with high humidity (bathroom) or sudden temperature changes, then wooden parts should be treated with a special protective coating, and ferrous metal parts - with protective paint.

If the shelves are planned to be made of chipboard or MDF, then you need to take care of cutting the material in advance. This can be done by yourself using a jigsaw, or sawing in a specialized store. Built-in shelves are available.

The choice of the design of the rack and the development of the drawing

To develop a correct and successful drawing, it is necessary to accurately measure the location of the future location of the rack. You can't do without a tape measure and a pencil (chalk). If the design is intended for storing tools or cans with canning, it is better to give preference to simple forms. The height of the rack directly depends on the height of the room, your own preferences and convenience. The width of the shelves depends on the items that will be placed on it. For storing cans or books, a width of 25-40 cm is sufficient. If we are talking about an instrument, then the width is selected in accordance with its dimensions.



The length of the shelves also depends on what will be stored on them. If the rack is made for toys, various figurines and other souvenir products - the shelves can reach a length of 1.5 meters, if for heavy books - no more than 90 cm (otherwise deflection cannot be avoided).



Fasteners must also be selected taking into account the loads. Self-tapping screws can be used for decorative shelving. If the structure will be attached to a brick wall - enough self-tapping screws 52 mm long, if to a concrete one - the length of the fastener should be at least 89 mm.



After the measurements have been taken and the issue with the rack design has been resolved, a drawing is made. You do not need to be a great draftsman here; it is enough to depict an approximate drawing plan indicating the dimensions and the most optimal arrangement of the shelves.

Stages of manufacturing a rack

Further steps for the manufacture of the rack can be divided into several stages:

1. Base installation
2. Installation of boxes and shelves
3. Rack finishing

Base installation

Before proceeding with the installation of the rack, it is necessary to mark the wall. If the rack will be built along the entire height of the wall, then it is better to attach the supporting frame in the form of wooden beams to both the ceiling and the floor.

For the construction of a bearing support, a wooden beam is best suited. The key to the success of the design is a solid foundation.

The bars can be used both rectangular and square. It all depends on the size of the finished rack, the length and width of the shelves. It is recommended to use 3 cm self-tapping screws to fix the beams and the base board.

During the installation of the structure, it is important to ensure that the bearing supports are always located vertically. Side cross braces will give the structure additional rigidity, which means they will make the rack more durable. It is especially important to take this into account if the structure will be subjected to heavy loads.

Installation of boxes and shelves

When the base of the rack is ready, you can proceed to the formation of the construction box. Pre-prepared MDF, chipboard, boards or other used material is attached to the beams from the bottom, top and sides. As a result of the work, you get a box without a back wall. If you wish, you can make a rack with a back wall made of fiberboard or thin plywood. It is installed last.

After installing the box, go to the shelves. On the side walls of the box, marks are made from the inside to indicate the location of future shelves. The shelves can be secured using self-tapping screws, metal corners or other selected mounting systems. If the rack is made with the expectation of a heavy load, then it is better to use metal corners. From above, transverse bars are attached to them, on which the shelves will rest. It is important to remember: the length of the self-tapping screws that connect the shelf to the timber should be 4-6 mm longer than the thickness of the shelf.

The middle shelf has the greatest load, so it should be made especially robust. For best results, use a level when installing the shelves. Recently, racks with asymmetrically arranged shelves have become popular.

Rack finishing

If the rack was made of chipboard or MDF boards, then for greater aesthetics and giving the structure a finished look, a melamine edge should be glued to all ends of the parts. This is done using a regular iron. The edge is laid on the butt end, pre-treated with fine-grained emery paper, and smoothed with a hot iron. The excess edges of the edge are cut off with a clerical knife.

If desired, some shelves can be closed with doors. This will add originality to the shelving unit. Or you can even make a whole

For those who cannot think of the most convenient and practical method of storing their own things, we offer universal shelving. Such products are made very quickly and easily, and are suitable for any room, be it a garage, bedroom or living room.

Having at least a little experience in repair or construction work, you can easily answer the question "how to make a rack with your own hands."

The materials used can be found at the nearest hardware store, or even close at hand. The main thing is to approach the issue of manufacturing with all your heart.

Material base

Three types of materials are perfect for today's product - wood, metal or plastic. It is also possible to combine several bases.

It should be noted right away that of the proposed materials, plastic is the most difficult to process - insufficiently strong joints, damaged appearance by cutting or drilling. Therefore, the most optimal solution is to use it with a wooden or metal structure.

In addition to the previous option, several other ideas can be combined. For example, use wrought metal and plywood.

Artistic casting will look very good - the main thing is to fit into the design idea of ​​the room and organically combine with other decorative elements. So, sweeping forging will not fit into a minimalist style.

First of all

Before the direct manufacture of a rack from boards or other base, you need to carry out preparatory work. To do this, select the place of the future product, measure the dimensions and draw a drawing of the future piece of furniture.

Immediately think about what shape the product will turn out to be - for example, simple shelves are suitable for a garage or balcony. In the living space, you can connect your own imagination to create a unique and practical decor.

Also, based on your needs, calculate the size of the shelves. For example, a basement rack that will store cans may have a shelf of 30 centimeters. In other cases, you need to take into account the stored items.

After that, the preparation of the material begins. For wood products, choose a dry and planed base. It is important that the bars are intact and in the correct shape.

The pipe rack also needs to be carefully prepared - the steel can be pre-painted if the standard color does not fit.

One of the main nuances is the conditions for further use of the shelves. Wet rooms will require additional processing of the wood frame or metal parts.

Manufacturing

When the do-it-yourself rack scheme is ready, you can proceed directly to the production process. First of all, the frame is assembled, depending on the selected material. The rest of the elements are attached to the finished lower base.

Keep in mind that when creating large structures, you need to take care of additional rigidity. Add two or three spacers to the frame at the ends and wall. So you get a more reliable and sturdy element.

As well as the shelves themselves - choose the material for them yourself, based on your taste preferences.

For everyone who wants to get acquainted, we offer do-it-yourself photos of shelving made of various materials. It will be easier for you to evaluate and understand what will best complement the design of your room or apartment as a whole.

Original ideas

It is not at all necessary to buy certain materials - it is enough to use old things, such as a chair, wardrobe and others.

Unused drawers can be easily converted into shelving shelves, which will be quite versatile and will not take up much space.

Those who have recently laid linoleum know that there is a cardboard tube inside the roll. Several of these products will make excellent shelves.

In appearance, this piece of furniture will resemble a honeycomb. In this case, you will not even need drawings of shelving, with your own hands, you will get unusually comfortable furniture fittings.

Photos of shelving with your own hands

Rack. Simple yet surprisingly versatile design. In the interior, shelves are used as intended - open multi-tiered structures with or without sidewalls, resting against the ceiling with the last shelves, or low ones, the top panel of which plays the role of a tabletop. They can store books or canned goods, children's toys or flower pots on their shelves. Typically, tall racks are leaned against and fixed to the wall. And as shelving structures used for space zoning, when using the original shelving the room is divided into functional zones.

You can assemble the rack with your own hands, or order from furniture makers. You can buy a finished product in a furniture showroom, only the issue price is different in each case. You can also order an exclusive shelving unit from a renowned designer. And then it will definitely not look like a boring standard structure that has equipped a basement or garage, as such an image often slips when the word "Shelving" is mentioned.

The material for creating this kind of structure can be different - wood, drywall, metal profile or a hollow pipe. Often there are forged racks used for storing wine and installed in cellars. As a rule, such masterpieces are exclusive works of authorship, and not everyone can afford to purchase such a luxury.

Simple shelving in standard design

Before proceeding with the construction of the structure, you must:

1. Decide on the material. Depending on whether the future piece of furniture will be built from metal or wood, plasterboard or chipboard, the budget of the event depends.
2. Create a drawing of the future structure. The amount of purchased material depends on it.
3. Make purchases without losing sight of the purchase of necessary or missing little things and tools in the work.

To erect a wooden shelf you will need:

• timber;
• slats;
• chipboard or MDF boards;
• plywood;
• screws, screws, dowels;
• building level, preferably laser;
• plumb line, if possible electronic;
• roulette;
• straight and cross-head screwdrivers, but it is best to use a screwdriver;
• chalk or soft slate pencil.

When using chipboard or MDF boards, it is necessary to cut them in advance in accordance with the dimensions. If performing this operation on your own is problematic, you can use the services of specialized stores.

It is important to know that the choice of fasteners directly depends on the expected loads on the rack structure.

If your shelving is a lightweight decorative structure, you can quickly assemble it using self-tapping screws.

Structures fastened to concrete walls are fixed with self-tapping screws over 89 mm long. For a brick wall, 52 mm fasteners are suitable. Garage metal shelving, or book storage structures, must be anchored or suspended from hooks.

Be aware that the width of the shelves directly depends on the intended purpose of the rack and on the products stored on the shelves themselves.

The choice of material for the rack

The modern market provides tremendous opportunities for the choice of materials, and of a different plan, but not inferior to each other, neither in quality, nor in strength, nor in exterior.

Drywall or plastic, wood or metal? What kind of material will serve faithfully for a long period of time? What is easier and less laborious to work with? What material is easier to cope with and, nevertheless, get a lot of pleasure and, upon completion, get aesthetic satisfaction?

Drywall shelving

Perfectly formatted, bend, cut, but in the same plane. Nevertheless, one should not forget that a sheet of drywall, 0.4x0.4 m in size, in six months is able to sag under its own weight. It is preferable to use drywall for decorative wall shelving.

Photo of a drywall rack

Plastic shelving

One of the most durable materials. Does not rot, is not susceptible to harmful insects, but is flammable, difficult to handle end cuts and is quite expensive in financial terms.

Plastic racks photo

Shelving made of fine wood

Shelves made of precious woods are durable. But wooden structures need accurate calculations of the load applied to them, since they can sag strongly under the weight of objects, especially cans with conservation, and, ultimately, the shelves break.

Wooden rack photo

Metal shelving

To work with this material, skills, specific tools and appropriate equipment are required.

Metal racks photo

Make a shelving unit with side walls

This is a classic type of construction, consisting of shelves that are attached to the side walls of the rack. As a rule, the back wall is absent, and from the front part, such racks are made open. The structure is formed on the basis of not always provided with legs and the last shelf practically rests against the ceiling. These are fairly strong structures, the stability of which is provided by fastening systems located at 2/3 of the height of the entire structure. Thanks to the fasteners, the rack is fixed to the wall.

Such racks are quite spacious, since the height of each shelf is calculated taking into account the stored items and is very functional - any item from an open shelf is easy and convenient to get, even if it is under the ceiling. Side walls prevent items from falling off the shelves.

The technological process of manufacturing the structure is very simple. The main aspect is the measurement of space, as well as a careful calculation of the size and height of the shelves.

Important to remember ! When installing the rack, on the lower rear part of the base, it is necessary to make a cut to the size of the plinth, otherwise the rack will not fit close to the wall.

The video will tell you how to make a rack with side walls in sufficient detail:

Making a wooden shelf for the kitchen

Not always the proposed options for kitchen shelves satisfy the desires of the hostess. Not only the small size of the structure, but also the calculation of the space between the shelves does not always correspond to the principles of doing kitchen business. And the financial side of the finished product is much higher than the cost of making a wooden rack for the kitchen with your own hands.

In this matter, the functionality of each shelf of the rack plays a decisive role, and in the interior of the kitchen such a structure can become a real find, decorating an empty wall space. These can be shelves designed to store, for example, dishes - from decorative plates or utensils to harmonious sets.

The rack can be assembled from chipboard, laminated MDF, edged boards, furniture glazing beads of noble wood species. You can use an old cabinet, after removing the back wall and front doors, and by installing shelves, create your own masterpiece. And if you make friends with a construction hairdryer, you can remove the varnish and repaint such a rack to your own taste.

The main feature of kitchen shelves, which distinguishes them from the main interior, is the ability of the structure to emphasize a special style, become a designer find and completely transform the space, especially if the coloring of the shelving is made in contrast to the main color scheme of the interior.

Rack on the balcony for cans with your own hands

The simplicity of execution is a robot, allows you to create a rack on the balcony for cans with your own hands without unnecessary physical costs. And for a hardworking owner, such work can be a real pleasure. The indescribable delight of the hostess in receiving the object for use can especially inspire the accomplishment of this feat.

The most important stage in the construction of a structure is an accurate measurement and calculation of shelves for cans stored on them with conservation. Three, two and one and a half liter cans, not to mention half-liter, have different heights, in accordance with which the space between the shelves is created.

Typically, the largest and heaviest canned glass jars are placed on the lower shelves. But they are the least of all in quantitative terms, but they take up more space. The width of the shelves is calculated, as a rule, on the basis of two or three three-liter cylinders supplied side by side. This will be considered the depth of the future rack. Therefore, as a rule, no more than two shelves are allocated for such canned food. Then three shelves should be set aside for two-liter blanks, up to four shelves for one-liter cans, and the largest number of shelves is set aside for half-liter home blanks for the winter.

Wooden shelving for conservation, as a rule, is made with side walls, if they are not installed in a balcony niche. They create structures of this kind using thick plywood, wooden blocks, self-tapping screws and, without fail, fastening corners so that the structure can withstand the weight with which it is planned to load the rack.

Pine wood is preferred as a building material, but other tree species with high strength can be used.

DIY wine rack

This is a special type of furniture storage facility for alcohol. Such a rack is a multi-tiered structure created from vertical racks with shelves attached to them, which are responsible for the safety of the wine stored on them, as well as providing appropriate conditions for the complete maturation of wines.

In order to create a wine rack with your own hands, you must adhere to the instructions developed by the master winemakers. The best material for the construction of this plan is wood. The best option is to use solid oak as a base for a wine rack. The durability of wood, praised for centuries, its resistance to decay processes and the beauty of a truly noble plant, reserves the right to claim the main material for creating a wine rack.

Ash can also be used as a material for the structure, as a tree with a more durable wood and a level of moisture resistance than oak. The ash cut is distinguished by the distinctness and special expressiveness of the tree ring pattern, which is widely used by cabinetmakers when creating the interiors of wine cellars.

DIY wine rack

Designing a storage rack for wine bottles involves particular attention to the depth, width and height of the cabinet. The height must be within reach. When designing a cabinet for the ceiling, the structure must be provided with an appropriate ladder.

The depth of the rack is calculated based on the height of the wine bottles. Depth, as a rule, depends on the method of placement - the stored wine bottles will take an inclined, vertical or horizontal position.

A big difficulty can arise in calculating the width of the rack, which directly depends on the load on the shelves.

Remember! The creation of short shelves is irrational, and long ones are very fraught.

Sagging shelves mean the collapse of both the rack and the reserves of alcohol, since the violation of the geometry of structural units invariably leads to the fact that the floors are elementary breaking.

DIY metal shelving

Racks assembled from metal structures, as a rule, are installed in garages, on balconies or loggias, in storerooms. The biggest advantage of this kind of structures is their high degree of carrying capacity and the fact that they are not afraid of the decay process. Treated with anti-corrosion agents, metal racks can be installed in rooms with high humidity levels.

A metal corner or profile pipes are used as a frame for the rack. The steel sheets embedded in them serve as shelves. The dimensions of such racks are influenced by the size of the premises where they will be installed and the planned load.

Did you know that a sheet with a thickness of 2 mm, fixed at the corners of 50x50x5 mm, is a powerful structure that can withstand a load of 1 ton.

The complete set of a metal rack may vary depending on the purpose. Options for component parts of metal shelving:

• side panels;
• back wall;
• section separators;
• inclined shelves;
• metal mesh;
• awnings;
• drawers with various functional tasks;
• pallets for storing liquids.

Handcrafted creation of a metal rack:

In conclusion, it should be noted that when creating such a simple structure as a rack, it is necessary to pay attention to individual nuances and subtleties that can greatly facilitate the installation and installation of the structure. And the main aspect, of course, is their significantly lower cost than when purchasing a finished product.

Recently, I was faced with the task of purchasing a bookcase. Approximately the same design as in the photo below. 180 cm high, 80 cm wide and 30 cm deep. Naturally, the first thing I did was go to the shops, but the minimum price without delivery of 2,700 rubles surprised me: it’s very expensive. It seemed to me that such a rack can be purchased in the region of 1000 rubles.

And then they suggested to me the idea of ​​self-assembly. No sooner said than done. And it turned out that it is not only easy, but also interesting!

The fact is that the main material for such racks is laminated chipboard (LSD chipboard), 16 mm thick. Accordingly, the first step was to determine the size of the parts and find a place where all this can be cut.

Rack dimensions

It is easy to see that the rack I need consists of 9 large parts: 2 side walls, 6 transverse shelves and a white wall. Color - light beech.

As I wrote above, I needed a rack 1800 * 800 * 300 mm. Accordingly, the dimensions of the parts were as follows:
2 side walls - 1800 * 300 mm.
6 transverse shelves - 80 * 30 cm (I advise you to order this way, and not repeat my mistake: I ordered 4 out of 6 shelves measuring 798 * 300 mm.)
1 wall made of white fiberboard - 1750 * 830 mm.

The place where you can buy it all

In principle, it is enough to type in a search engine "sawn chipboard" and understand where is better and cheaper. In Petrozavodsk, for example, the company "Laminat Monza" is engaged in this at Kooperativnaya, 6 - http://mzptz.ru/.

I went there. Unfortunately, they do not cut the cut right away, you have to wait a few days.

Arriving a couple of days later with a friend in a car (after all, the parts are quite large and not easy), I paid 1485 rubles for the above.

But that was not all the waste. An additional one had to be bought:
16 shelf supports 5 mm each. Better to buy more for the stock. 1 piece = 35 kopecks.
8 hexagonal ties 6,3 * 50 mm - it is also better to buy more for a stock. 1 pc = 67 kopecks
And self-adhesive plugs so that the place where we drilled can be glued.

I also bought 10 meters of "light beech" edging at the guys' warehouse. 1 meter = 7 rubles.

In total, the additional parts cost me 100 rubles.

Total for the cost of materials, the rack cost 1,585 rubles. If necessary, you can add the cost of delivery of materials here. Thus, the materials are almost twice as cheap as in the store!

Assembly

And now - the fun part. Rack assembly. Here, in fact, are the plates themselves.

If you look closer, they look like this: pressed wood chips from the sides. So that this is not visible - we glue the edge.

First step assembly of the rack - glue the edge. First, we do it with the shelves. Here it is enough to glue only one side, because the rest will be hidden. I advise you to practice first. So, we firmly install the stove so that it does not stagger.

Next, we take .... iron! Yes Yes. It turns out that the edge is glued with an iron (heat). Cut off the required piece of the edge, set it straight.

And carefully, constantly making sure that the edge does not slide out, we run it with an iron. As a result of a chemical reaction, the edge is tightly glued to the end of the board.

Since it is wider than the plate, we take a thin knife and cut off the excess. It is important to do everything smoothly. In fact, this is the most difficult stage, but you quickly understand how to hold the knife. Later, you can take fine sandpaper and remove the irregularities.

We do the same with two side walls, only we glue two sides: the front and the top.

I strongly advise you to watch the video of how the edge is glued - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2oL9Jaq62I

Second phase- we drill recesses for the shelf supports. To do this, we select a drill that is suitable for the thickness and outline the grooves (i.e. we do not drill through and through, but to the length of the shelf holders). In fact - they mean the distances at which our shelves will be. This is the beauty of self-assembly - you decide what you need and how you need it.

What we did on one wall - we also do on the second.

Third stage- we drill holes for screeds. Ties connect the side walls with the upper and lower shelf (if you wish, you can do it in the middle). I recommend retreating 5-10 centimeters for the lowest shelf.

In the upper and lower shelves, we drill holes for the ties and tighten them.

As a result, we get such a frame.

Fourth stage- we attach the back wall. It is not difficult. Just a white sheet of fiberboard is placed around the perimeter and attached to the frame. I tried to attach it to a construction stapler, but it did not hold well, so I nailed it with small nails,

Fifth stage- we insert the shelf supports into the recesses, install the shelves, glue the plugs and rejoice :)

That, in fact, is all. And this rack will serve as the basis for our online store -