When designing a house, it is advisable to immediately think about the need to install a drainage system around it. If the house has already been built, and the damp basement does not allow comfortable living, then the drainage system around the house should be made with your own hands later. There are several types of drainage systems, and each of them has its own characteristics and characteristics, so all of them will be discussed in this article.

Do-it-yourself wall foundation drainage

Drainage is a system of pipes that are laid in specially dug trenches maintaining a constant slope that ensures the drainage of water into the water intake. When soil moisture exceeds permissible limits, excess moisture enters the perforated pipes and flows into the well (read: “Do-it-yourself drainage wells - how to do it right”).

What does a drainage system around a house look like, and how to do a truly high-quality design?

The first step is to conduct a geological exploration of the site, determining the following indicators:

• soil type on the site;
• maximum groundwater level;
• the highest and lowest points of the site.

This data must be plotted on the site plan along with schematic images of all objects located on it: trees, buildings and the building itself. Drains must be laid along the perimeter of the building, and the distance from the house must be at least one meter, and the depth of drainage around the house must be at least 30 cm greater than the depth of the foundation.

In addition, a constant slope must be observed, the value of which must be at least 3 cm per meter of pipeline length. The drainage well is always located at the lowest point of the site, and it is into it that all collected water flows. Following these rules, a pipe laying map is created, on which the points where inspection drainage wells will be installed are also plotted. There is an opinion that it is possible to combine a storm sewer system with drainage, but experts do not advise doing so.

Preparing to work around the house

When the work plan is ready, you can begin more material tasks: purchasing material and preparing tools.

Drainage pipes are made from different materials: there are products made from plastic, asbestos cement, and ceramics. However, it is plastic products that deservedly become most widespread, the characteristics of which are excellent for creating drainage structures (read: “How to make drainage around the house correctly”).

The diameter of the pipes should be in the range of 100-110 mm. If the pipes will be laid to great depths, then care should be taken to ensure that they are as strong as possible. Experts do not recommend using flexible plastic pipes, since it is difficult to maintain a slope with them.

In addition to pipes, you need to purchase additional elements, the list of which includes:

• fitting;
• inspection wells and manhole covers for them;
• geotextile fabric.

If the building has not yet been built, then waterproofing for the foundation will come in handy, and, of course, you will need basic construction tools: shovels, a building level and a tape measure.

Now that everything is ready to go, installing a drainage system around the house is a matter of time. First of all, a trench is dug around the building at the required depth, the dimensions of which must correspond to those stated in the plan. The sides of the trench can be of any shape, but there is a nuance: if the soil is initially quite loose, then it makes sense to make small bevels. The width of the trench is also calculated in advance. To accurately observe all the required dimensions, you must remember to use a tape measure and a level.

Each turn of the trench and every 30-50 meters of straight distances should be equipped with small recesses in which inspection wells will be installed.

If you encounter stones while digging a ditch, hard pieces earth and other foreign elements, they should be removed so as not to damage the pipes in the future. After completing the excavation work, you can cover the foundation with waterproofing, if this has not been done previously.

When the previous work is completed, you can proceed directly to creating the drainage system. The bottom of the trench is covered with a layer of crushed stone and sand approximately 10 cm deep and compacted, after which geotextiles are laid on it. The free edges of the fabric need to be wrapped around the walls in order to later wrap them around the pipes.

When the lining is ready, pipes are laid on it. The pipeline should run through the center of the trench. When connecting pipes, it is worth additionally coating them with silicone sealant. If the pipes have perforations on only one side, then it is better to place them with the holes down. During the work process, it is important not to forget about the need to install inspection and rotary wells. One of the last stages will be the installation of a drainage well. The height of the wells is determined in such a way that after completion of the work they can be easily accessed.

Having finished installing the pipes, they must be covered with a layer of crushed stone, wrapped in geotextiles and covered with earth, covering the entire structure with a layer of turf.

Ring drainage system around the house

A ring drainage system around the house is needed when the house has already been built and the blind area has been equipped.

By by and large, the ring drainage system is performed in the same way as the wall one, but there are some differences:

• the trench should be three meters from the foundation, and all other dimensions will remain the same;
• when the laying of the drains is completed, they are covered with a 10-centimeter layer of crushed stone, and the rest of the space is filled with soil;
• In this case, the trenches can be decorated as a ring path directed towards the drain.

Linear foundation drainage

Linear drainage refers to the installation of drainage trays on the site. In addition, they can be installed around the perimeter of the building to collect and drain atmospheric precipitation (read: “We do the drainage of the foundation of a house with our own hands correctly”). The efficiency of the trays can be increased by combining them with point rainwater inlets and sand traps with connected drainage pipes, which will make it possible to drain water directly into the collector well.

The work is carried out according to a similar plan: first, a design diagram is prepared taking into account all the objects located on the site. Then the line for laying the linear drainage system is drawn, and the installation locations for rainwater inlets and other structural elements are indicated. Then materials are purchased, tools are prepared, after which you can proceed directly to the construction of the drainage system.

The work will be carried out according to the following algorithm:

1. First, a trench for the trays is prepared. All rules remain the same, but the depth should be only 10-15 cm greater than the height of the tray, and the width should be 10 centimeters greater.
2. When the trench is ready, it is installed drainage well, to which a plastic sewer pipe is connected, connected to the installation site of the first tray.
3. Now you can upload concrete base. When it is ready, you can connect the following trays through a system of adapters and connecting elements. The system is ready, and now water on the site will not be a problem.

Conclusion

Drainage system around the house with your own hands is not a problem if you approach this issue competently and meaningfully. Proper drainage will create comfort in the house and will make it possible to avoid constant flooding and flooding: the house will become a fortress that no water can break.

7. Construction of a blind area around the house and the drainage system of the site

The main task of the blind area is to drain surface water from the house (from rain and melting snow) so that too much moisture does not accumulate in the soil near the foundation, which freezes in winter, “heaves”, softens the soil, including unevenly, which is why the house can settle unevenly, the load-bearing characteristics of the soil deteriorate. It is not advisable to leave the house in winter without blind area(and it is best to insulate the blind area - read about the foundation of a shallow foundation in the section “Foundation construction”). The covering of the blind area must be waterproof and resistant to erosion by water (as a rule, concrete is poured into the base and laid on top paving slabs); Trays (usually plastic) are installed around the perimeter of the blind area and rain inlets are connected to them to receive/discharge water from the roof drainage system. The blind area is made with a slope from the house (2-3 cm per meter of width), but the width of the blind area itself should be (according to SNiP): for sandy soils at least 70 cm, for clay soils at least 100 cm. Thickness 10 cm at the thinnest point .

Reasons to drain the area can be: clay soils, on which the water “stands”; high groundwater level; if the site is located in a lowland, as a result of which large volumes of water flow to it; if the site is located on flat surface, the water from which almost does not drain; The presence of deep structures (basement or cellar) is undesirable. When installing a drainage system, take into account landing zones(trees, shrubs and other plantings), as well as the presence of various building structures, by the way, roads and fences (on a strip foundation) create barriers to the natural flow of water, which can cause the soil to become flooded and swampy.

The essence of drainage around the house/foundation is as follows. Selected upper point (one of the corners of the house, farthest from the collector well) from which to bottom point (collector well, water reservoir) drainage lines are laid around the perimeter of the house perforated sloped pipes. IN manhole(closest to the collector) silt accumulates at the bottom, and as water accumulates, it flows through the next pipe (without holes) into collector a well from which a pump or gravity drains into a ditch. Either water from the inspection well is diverted into a filter well, and in it, through a layer of sand and gravel, it goes into the ground (the filtering capacity of the soil should allow it). Simplescheme: a relatively small inspection well is used as a collector well, and from it water is discharged at a slope into a ditch.

The basis of the drainage system serve as drainage pipes (drains) with holes for receiving water; pipes are laid in the ground and lined crushed granite or pure gravel (sand-gravel mixture, as well as crushed limestone, is not used; they “clog” the pipe holes and soil voids, preventing water from penetrating into the drainage pipes).

To protect crushed stone and pipes from siltation they are covered on all sides with geotextiles. If drainage under the house is required (to drain groundwater from the basement), then pipes are laid around the perimeter of the house with an indentation of 1-2 meters from it approximately half a meter below the foundation, and below the depth of soil freezing (soil heaving can change the slope of the pipes, water will stagnate, pipes will become clogged; in the Novosibirsk region the required depth is 2.5 meters, but pipes can be laid at a depth of one meter if the blind area is insulated). Regular diameter drainage pipes 110 mm(like sewer pipe). A layer of crushed stone-gravel around the pipes 10-15
see fractions 20-40 mm(5-20 is possible, but more expensive). Below and above done sand bedding(passes/filters water). The slope of the drainage system should be 2 cm per meter of pipe, beginning With top point(corner of the house farthest from the collector) and ending with the lowest point (collector well, water reservoir). These points are calculated at the design stage: from the highest point towards the lower one, the drainage of rain, melt and groundwater is organized. Organize drainage around the house is necessary during foundation construction(until the pit is filled in). At key “points” (every second turn of the pipe, height difference) it is necessary to install inspection wells, which serve for periodic flushing of drainage pipes and for the possibility of repairing the system. The end point of the drainage system is the discharge of water into a roadside ditch, or (if there is no ditch nearby, the groundwater level is short) drainage of wastewater into a filter (absorption) well, and through it into the ground.

Drainage around the house: basic technology, types of drainage systems and their cost

The volume and depth of the filter well are calculated based on the water permeability of the soil and the groundwater level. The filter well is located on half a meter below drainage pipes, and to groundwater there should be at least meter(State Sanitary and Epidemiological Supervision reports: “ Drainage water are distinguished by the presence of microbial contamination and high levels of mineral salts" ... "are a source of microbial contamination ... of underground aquifers, drinking water"). A private home is not a chemical enterprise, but it is worth observing basic measures.

If there are no ditches or groundwater does not allow it, then wastewater can be accumulated in a sufficiently large (3-4 m3) and sealed collector well. In winter, drainage, as a rule, is not needed (groundwater is low, it doesn’t rain, the snow doesn’t melt), and in the warm season, water from the well can be used for “technical” needs: watering lawns, bushes, beds, or washing something .

Drainage pipes come with perforation and without perforation(the latter for draining wastewater into a roadside ditch or into a filter well, so that
do not “splash” water “along the road”). There are pipes with a filter (wrapped with geo-fabric) and without a filter. Their prices are almost the same. Considering that in real conditions construction sites and crushed stone can be dirty, and the geofabric can be torn, it is better to use pipes with filter. Large collector It’s better to buy a ready-made plastic well. Well from reinforced concrete rings can be made in larger volume, but high quality sealing it will be much more expensive. Wherein filtering the well is made from reinforced concrete rings (as in the case of sewerage). Regarding the drainage of surface water and high water, it is cheaper and more effective to raise the level of the site and make a slope towards the ditch. before construction of a house, rather than subsequently digging shallow trenches across the entire site and laying drainage pipes in the zone of soil freezing. "Pie" drainage system around the house and the depth of the trenches are calculated in such a way that “everything” fits under the level of the blind area - scheme.

How to make drainage around the house correctly

Many homeowners are interested in the question of how to arrange drainage around the house. There are several different variations of schemes that allow you to create drainage around the blind area of ​​the house. If we consider them all in detail, it becomes clear that the best option is a closed drainage system.

What materials and tools will be needed to implement such a drainage system around the house with your own hands?

The standard set will look like this:

• inspection wells;
• drainage pipe;
• shovel;
• hacksaw.

Why is drainage needed around the house?

How to make drainage around the house, and why is it needed at all? The first thing that needs to be said when it comes to drainage is that this system is not a replacement for foundation waterproofing, but only complements it. True, in areas where the groundwater level is high, a drainage system is a mandatory element, and without it the house will “float” very quickly.

It is very important to take into account both the amount of precipitation in the area and the altitude of the site in a particular area: if there is too much precipitation, the house will be constantly surrounded by water, and the site located in the lowlands will gradually be washed away from below by soil waters. In such cases, the question is “why?” disappears, and the question arises: “how to do drainage around the house?”

In addition, it is important to take these factors into account before the construction of the building itself begins, since in this case it is much easier to build a drainage system.

Classification of drainage systems

How to make drainage around the house if you don’t even know how it is classified? There are three options for drainage systems, and each of them has its own pros and cons.

Here are the types of structures that exist:

1. Open drainage. To implement this option, it is necessary to dig a wide trench around the house, and its depth should be greater than the depth of the foundation (read also: “We do the drainage of the foundation of a house with our own hands correctly”). The width of the ditch can be quite narrow - this is not a critical aspect, but maintaining a constant slope towards the water intake is very important, otherwise the water simply will not be able to move further. As a result, the site will end up with a ditch surrounding the house, which will have a bad effect on the aesthetic indicators of the site and can even be dangerous: falling into a hole, the depth of which is comparable to human height, is not the most pleasant process.
2. Backfill drainage. In essence, this method is identical to the previous one, but with one difference: in this case, the ditch will be filled with various building materials, such as cinder blocks or crushed stone, and all this will be covered with a layer of turf on top. Yes, you won’t be able to fall into such a drainage hole, but there is no particular point in such drainage, since the throughput of the trench will drop to a minimum.
3. Closed drainage. This is a more serious design for which high-quality materials are used. Often, in conjunction with such systems, a blind area is made around the house, and the drainage is completely hidden from prying eyes.

   Closed drainage systems are safe, effective, easy to maintain and pleasant to use. Of course, this option is more suitable as an answer to the question of how to properly make drainage around the house, and it is this type of drainage system that will be discussed in this article.

Selection of pipes for the drainage system

Today you can find the following types of drainage pipes on the market:

• asbestos-cement. Such pipes have the best strength characteristics, can last up to 50 years, and have good resistance to aggressive environments, but there is one drawback: they are incredibly heavy. In addition, if necessary, you will have to work hard to make through holes in them every 15-20 cm (read also: “Do-it-yourself drainage pipe - design and installation with examples”);
• ceramic. This material itself is quite fragile, so ceramic pipes must be handled very carefully. You will have to cut holes in such pipes yourself, but the task is made easier by less strength. Some models initially have surface grooves that improve the liquid collection process. It is difficult to install ceramic pipes precisely because of their low strength;
• porous pipes. The material for production can be different: plastic concrete, expanded clay and many others. There is no need to perforate porous pipes, since their structure provides them with good moisture absorption. These pipes are expensive, and the efficiency will directly depend on the diameter of the pipes: the higher, the better;
• plastic pipes. The drainage scheme around the house most often includes plastic pipes, which is determined by good performance: They are cheap, easy to install and maintain, can last for several decades and are quite durable.

How to make a drainage system around the house

How to make drainage around the house with your own hands? To create proper drainage around the house, which will serve its owner for many years, you should follow the algorithm below for performing construction work:

1. Taking measurements. First you need to find out where the lowest point of the site is. This is where the drain well will be installed, and this is where the entire system will be directed. If you cannot visually determine the slope of the area, then you need to use a theodolite. This device is quite rare, but you can rent it.

   In ditches dug around the house, a slope of at least 10 mm per 1 meter of length must be observed. Of course, water will be able to move through the system even with a smaller slope, but it is worth taking into account the fact that the structure will become clogged, and too small a slope will eventually cause clogging of the pipeline. You will have to dig a little more, but in the future this work will pay off with interest.

2. Digging trenches. The minimum depth of the ditch should be at a level deeper than the foundation level by at least 30 cm. This is one of the reasons why drainage around the house with your own hands should be started even before the construction of the house begins: the foundation pit is usually dug with a reserve (read: “Drainage depth around the house - rules and regulations"). The width of the ditch should be about half a meter, and its upper point should be on the opposite side of the site in relation to the drainage well.
3. Backfill. Large crushed stone is placed at the bottom of the ditch. Then it needs to be covered with a layer of sand and compacted. As a result, the thickness of the resulting layer should be about 15 cm. The slope must still be observed: each meter of length should be checked against building level. On the bottom of the trench obtained in this way, you need to lay geotextile fabric, and its edges should rise along the sides of the ditch: a little later, drainage pipes will be wrapped in them.
4. Laying pipes. Now you can lay drainage pipes in the ditch. Pipe joints must be insulated using special tape. It is at this stage that inspection wells are usually installed, and it is advisable to place them in diametrically opposite places on the site. In addition, the height of the wells should be measured not by the depth of the trench in a given location, but by the level of the earth's surface throughout the entire area.

   Reliable drainage system around the house: DIY device

   The pipeline is pulled to the inspection wells and drainage well, after which the system is tested. This is very important point, because the pipes have not yet been completely filled in, and any shortcomings can now be corrected. Testing drainage is very simple - just pour a few buckets of water into it. If everything works fine, then you can proceed to the last step.

5. The pipes are again covered with crushed stone or gravel on top. The layer thickness should be about 40 cm. Then the structure is wrapped with geotextiles. If desired, you can combine the drainage system and storm sewer, sending all the water to the drainage well.

A layer of crushed stone is covered with earth, and a layer of turf is laid on top of it all. The construction of the drainage system is now complete.

Conclusion

This article answered the question of how to make drainage around the house. If you follow the proposed algorithms and correctly arrange drainage around the house, the resulting system will work flawlessly for many years, protecting the building and site from the destructive effects of moisture.

Drainage system around the house: features of the device and water drainage scheme

Installation of drainage around the foundation of the house.

In most cases, drainage around the house is the only way to maintain the integrity of the foundation, since the main enemy of the foundation of a structure is water.

During the construction of the foundation, the walls of this structure are treated with waterproofing materials, but they do not last forever, and with prolonged contact with the moisture contained in the soil, they gradually lose their ability to repel water from the foundation. If the foundation is built in a place where the groundwater is low and the aquifers are not in contact with the surface of the foundation, the process of destruction is very slow, but where the water is close to the surface, the foundation is highly susceptible to its influence. In areas where groundwater is close to the surface, moisture constantly stands under the foundation, and with heavy rainfall, flooding of the ground floor or basement can even occur.

So, installing a drainage system around the foundation is a vital necessity when groundwater is close, and also when there is heavy rainfall in the area in which the house is built. It is best to plan the installation of a drainage system at the stage of constructing the foundation, but if it comes to a ready-made house, then you can make a drainage system around the finished structure. Drainage systems suitable for private houses include two main types: wall and open drainage.

Layout of drainage pipes around a standard house.

To be fair, it is worth noting that open drainage is a very effective means of draining water in areas where the groundwater level is low, but at high levels this drainage option is almost useless.

Making drainage around the house is not difficult in this case; it is enough to dig grooves up to 25 cm deep around the house. Such drainage will be quite sufficient to collect melt and rain water.

Wall drainage is a more complex structure, but you can do it yourself, although this will require you to spend a little money on purchasing the necessary materials. It is recommended to use such drainage in places with high soil moisture, since it is the structures of this type can completely solve the problem of flooding in the basement or basement.

How to make a wall drainage system?

The wall system is a structure based on drainage pipes. To form a drainage system you will need following materials and tools:

First of all, in order to install a drainage system, a trench is dug at a distance of approximately 1 m from the foundation for laying drainage pipes. If a perforated drainage pipe is used, the width and depth of the trench must be at least 30 cm, since not only the pipe, but also the cushion must fit in the trench. The trench is made along the contour around the house to ensure high-quality drainage on all sides. The bottom of the prepared trench must be covered with a 5 cm layer of sand.

Scheme of the drainage “pie” near the foundation.

When preparing a trench for laying pipes, you need to ensure that its bottom has a slope of at least 2 cm. On top sand cushion a layer of rolled geotextile is laid. When laying geotextiles, you need to make sure that its edges extend to the sides of the trench. A 10 cm layer of fine gravel is poured on top of the geotextile, which is covered with the edges of the geotextile, previously folded over the edges of the trench. This drainage device allows water to easily penetrate the pipes and be drained away from the foundation.

After the preparatory work, you can begin laying the pipes. The design of the drainage pipes should be such that they are located around the house and both ends of the ring of pipes converge in one place - thus, water through downhill pipes will flow into one common pipe. The common pipe should lead to the water intake. Inspection wells should be placed in the corners of the house so that clogged pipes can be cleaned if necessary. After the installation of drainage pipes around the perimeter of the house is completed, you need to fill the remaining part of the trench with gravel.

The water intake device does not require extra costs, for this, take an empty tank with holes made in advance with a drill in the bottom. The tank is dug into the ground and connected to it common pipe on a slope so that the collected water flows into the catch basin. From the reservoir, water will flow into the soil through holes in its lower part. Thus, the drainage system works completely autonomously, but once a year the pipes need to be cleaned to prevent clogging of the holes in the perforated pipes.

Drainage around the house

Drainage around the house is effective way protection of building elements and outbuildings from moisture.

The creation of such a drainage system is especially important if groundwater is located at a depth of less than 2.5 meters. This is also necessary if the residential structure is located on a site prone to seasonal or weather-related flooding. The drainage device is not challenging task, but to organize it correctly you need to follow simple rules. How to properly make drainage around the house with your own hands?

System Description

For effective drainage of groundwater, rain and melt water, which not only destroy structural elements of the building, fill the basement and cellar, but also reduce bearing capacity soil, there are several ways to arrange drainage. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, deciding which type to choose and how to make drainage around the house with your own hands remains with the owner of the country property.

The design and location of the system for protecting against excess moisture is selected taking into account the terrain, the presence of buried rooms, the depth of groundwater, and the type of soil. By design, the following drainage systems are distinguished: backfill, open and closed.

How to make drainage around the house with your own hands

Depending on what area of ​​land needs to be drained, what type of drainage and what depth of the drainage system will be most effective, the location of the entire system is chosen. If necessary, eliminate the impact of water on the foundation and basements, create wall or ring drainage. The first type is appropriate if there is a basement or basement and is located in close proximity to the foundation walls. Trenches are dug around the perimeter, a perforated pipe is laid (below the basement floor level) and covered with crushed stone or gravel. The wall is fenced off with a layer of geotextile with one-way conductivity. Water from the ground does not reach the walls, but enters the drainage system and is discharged to a safe place.

To protect the entire area, the drainage system is located around its perimeter. The most labor-intensive, expensive, but also the most effective method is a closed system using plastic perforated pipes. The price in Moscow for perforated plastic pipes is low and affordable for any family budget. It takes you away from the area perfectly excess water, preventing mold from occurring, destroying garden and vegetable plants, and destroying supporting building elements and not spoil the appearance of the house.

To create such a drainage, you need to perform several operations:

• draw a diagram of the future system on paper indicating the dimensions and distance from the edge of the site, as well as taking into account the landscape design and location of plantings;
• will mark future routes on the site itself using paint or sand;
• with your own hands or using small equipment, dig trenches along marked routes (depth and width depend on the level of groundwater and the diameter of the pipes used, vary from 70 to 150 cm in depth and from 25 to 40 cm in width);
• line the bottom and walls of the trench with geotextile (the material will significantly reduce clogging of the drainage and significantly increase the period of effective operation);
• Apply a layer of sand (about 15 cm) to the bottom, and then a layer of crushed stone or gravel (about 20 cm);
• using the device and the gravel layer, set the desired level of slope;
• if the site area is large, it will be necessary to create inspection wells at a distance of 50 meters from each other in places where pipes bend or change the slope;
• perforated pipes are laid (best with a filter element - fiberglass, coconut fiber, non-woven or needle-punched textiles) and connected to each other using fittings;
• the most optimal diameter of the drainage pipe, ensuring good water drainage, is considered to be 110 mm;
• check the slope again (this can be easily done using a stretched rope), and it is necessary to create a uniform level, eliminating sagging of the drainage pipe;
• it is very important that the drainage system is below the soil freezing level;
• the pipes are covered with crushed stone or gravel on top; the thickness of the layer should not reach the soil surface of about 15 cm;
• Geotextiles are laid on the crushed stone layer and soil is filled.

There is no need to be afraid of increasing the cost of creating drainage: purchasing additional geotextiles and separating all layers from each other will only increase the efficiency and service life of the entire system.

Following these simple instructions will allow you to install long-term water protection with your own hands and preserve your property and health throughout the entire life of your home.

Backfill design

The backfill drainage structure is a deep trench (below the upper groundwater level) filled with coarse gravel, crushed stone or other rubble material.

How to properly make drainage around the house

The upper part of the trench is covered with a layer of turf, and to reduce swimming and silting of the passage space, the walls are laid with a layer of geotextile material. Such drainage is easy to create, low cost, long service life and no need for maintenance.

In addition, in its final form it does not disrupt the overall appearance of the site and does not introduce dissonance into the landscape design. The disadvantages include the low throughput of the water flow and the impossibility of cleaning the drainage channel if it is clogged.

Open type drainage device

The open option or surface drainage involves the creation of shallow open trenches (about 0.5 meters), through which rain and melt water is drained into special containers or discharged outside the site. To prevent swimming and destruction of the trench walls, plastic or metal trays are placed in them. Additional security is provided by the grilles placed on top.

How to properly make a closed drainage system

The most complex and labor-intensive type of drainage is the closed type. When organizing it, trenches are dug, a layer of gravel or coarse crushed stone is poured onto the bottom, and then perforated pipes are laid. From above, the entire structure is again covered with crushed stone or gravel and at the end a layer of soil is applied. To increase the efficiency of water drainage and reduce siltation, filter material (geotextile) is used on perforated pipes. The materials for making perforated pipes are steel, asbestos cement, and ceramics, but now almost all types have given way to plastic. Widespread received corrugated plastic pipes, which are already in finished form have holes, are long and easy to install.

When choosing any method of removing excess moisture, you should definitely take into account the slope of the drainage channels. For proper operation system, the level of inclination towards the outlet to an artificial or natural water intake must be at least 3° along one branch or 1 cm for each linear meter. When deciding how to properly tilt the drainage, you can use the adjustment of the thickness of the gravel cushion.

There are several options for how to make drainage around the house. However, upon closer examination, the optimal solution is a closed drainage system, the arrangement of which has many secrets.

Drainage system around the house - why is it needed?

A typical construction misconception (typical of people without experience, but with money) is the substitution fundamental concepts. Drainage does not replace foundation waterproofing! A foundation that is perfectly insulated from moisture still needs a drainage system! The reason lies deep in your site - in alternating layers of clay and loam, in seasonal changes in the groundwater level.

The relative height of the site on the ground is no less important - the lower it is, the more relevant it is to install drainage around the house with your own hands. The amount of precipitation and external permeability of the soil also contribute to the need for drainage. There are many factors, and not all of them can be taken into account before building a house. And they manifest themselves quite tangibly - in the form of basement mold, fungi on load-bearing beams and in other unpleasant forms.

Therefore, the drainage system is laid at the excavation stage, when digging a pit for a house. All other drainage schemes for melt and groundwater, precipitation, etc. should be recognized as patching holes in a unraveling shirt, although for the sake of objectivity we will consider them too.

How to make drainage around the house - installation options

There are only three of these, and the first two are carried out with great reservations. They pose a potential danger to the life and health of residents and are more relevant for those houses in which there are no children:

• Open option. A ditch is dug around the house, and its depth should exceed the depth of the foundation. The width of the ditch can be narrow, plus it is necessary to make a slope for the natural flow of water. As a result, on own plot a slit-like trench appears, which fatally affects the impressive appearance. It can be decorated with external ceilings, but the danger of children and animals falling into such a ditch remains;
• Backfill option. The same open ditch, but covered on top with rubble stone, cinder blocks, crushed stone and decorated with turf. No one will fall into it, but the technical operation of the backfill system is fundamentally impossible. In the event of an emergency blockage of the drainage, the entire ditch will have to be opened and localized problem area it will have to be on a whim. That is, you will need to dig through the entire area as if you were looking for treasure;
• Closed option. Performed by drainage pipes, safe and effective, allows Maintenance and various arrangement methods. We will consider this in more detail: how to make drainage on a site with your own hands using buried pipes. And let's start with their choice.

How to make drainage on a site - we choose pipes with our own hands

Drainage pipes are produced by our (and not our) industry in the following varieties:

• Asbestos-cement, the strongest, most durable... and heaviest. Additional joy comes from the need to make through cuts in them, in a checkerboard pattern and quite long - every 15-20 cm with a size of at least 5 mm. Manufacturers emphasize the service life of such pipes, which reaches 50 years, and asbestos cement itself is not afraid of aggressive environments;
• Ceramic - that is, simply clay. This means they are fragile and can be damaged during transportation and storage. However, some varieties ceramic pipes good for the presence of additional surface grooves, they contribute to enhanced moisture collection. Perforation of ceramic pipes is similar to asbestos-cement, that is, it is performed independently, on site. Installation is difficult due to the low strength of the ceramic drainage material;
• Porous pipes are made from plastic concrete, expanded clay glass and other modern building materials. They do not require perforation at all due to their porous structure - moisture collects through capillary channels in the walls. Financially expensive, effective drainage is ensured with a significant pipe diameter;
• Polymer pipes - made of polypropylene, polyethylene and other plastics. Lightweight, economical, easy to install and effective for a long time long term operation - 90% of drainage work in private houses is carried out by them.

Installing drainage around the house - do it yourself and step by step

Step-by-step instructions with practical tips on how to make drainage around the house, consists of next stages on its arrangement:

Do-it-yourself drainage around the house - step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Surveyor

We determine the lowest point of our site - yes, yes, the trench will have to be pulled to it, there will be a drainage well there. Because avoiding mold in your basement is important, but preventing waterlogged soil is also a good idea. Given the flat nature of the site, the presence tall grass and other external complications, the theodolite will help determine the lower point. This tool can be rented or asked from friends - it cannot be classified as a permanent construction necessity.

The ditches around the house must have a slope of at least 1 centimeter per linear meter. Water will flow even with a slope of 3 mm per meter, but dirty moisture with fine sand and loam will flow through our drainage, inner surface pipes will become coated with plaque over time. So you will have to lay a slope of at least 10 mm per 1 meter. This will lead to an increase in the volume of excavation work, but will benefit the durability of the drainage system.

Step 2: Digger

Dig, Shura, they are golden... The depth of the ditch around the house itself must exceed the lowest point of the foundation by at least 30 cm. This is also why drainage work is carried out at the foundation pit stage, because... they still dig it out “with a reserve” sufficient for laying pipes. For the excavation stage of the work, a sharp bayonet shovel is required, and a shovel assistant will also be useful for lifting the soil upward.

The top point of the ditch is located on the opposite side of the drainage well in the lower part of the site, the width of the ditch is about 50 cm. Each linear meter must be checked with a bubble level to ensure compliance with the required slope.

Step 3: filling and covering

Crushed stone of 10-15 mm fractions is poured onto the bottom of our trench - that is, quite large. A layer of sand is placed on top and compacted. The total thickness of the sand and gravel layer is approximately 15 cm. The slope profile must be accurately maintained - 1 cm per meter is visually difficult to recognize, especially in a narrow trench. Again we use a level; uniformity of slope is important for long-term gravity flow of water in drainage pipes.

The bottom of the trench, extending onto the walls at least 60-70 cm on each side, is covered with geotextile; this material will not allow moisture to go down to the gravel-sand layer. At the junction of geotextile strips we make a wide overlap. We again pour crushed stone on top, this time of a small thickness - 5-7 mm, repeating the slope line.

Step 4: Finally Drainage

Drainage pipes are laid along the second crushed stone surface. Their joints are insulated with special tape. Inspection wells with covers are laid in at least two opposite corners of the house - their height must immediately correspond to the level of the turf on the garden plot.

The pipe line is pulled to inspection and drainage wells and checked by pouring water from the top point, at least several buckets. As long as the drainage communications are open, any error can be easily corrected. When there is no doubt about the accuracy of the slope and the tightness of the joints, the pipes can be backfilled.

The foundations of private houses require protection from excessive wetting, since precipitation and rising groundwater levels can lead to destruction monolithic foundations. In this regard, the question arises: how to properly make drainage around the house with your own hands. The opinion that with a blind area you can avoid excess moisture getting into the soil adjacent to the base is erroneous. Only the installation of a well-thought-out drainage system will protect the house without reference to the presence or absence of premises below ground level.

Installation of any type of drainage system around a residential building must necessarily begin with the design of all stages of work to create structures that facilitate the removal of excess moisture. To protect the foundation of the house and basements optimal solution will be the use of wall drainage, ensuring complete removal of precipitation from the building.

If the groundwater is located quite high on the site, then the presence of waterproofing alone will in no way save you. In this case, sediment can be removed from the foundation of a residential building only by installing a well-thought-out drainage system.

If we approach the issue of creating engineering structure comprehensively, the following scope of work will be required:

1. Through use quality materials produce foundation waterproofing.
2. Install a system that can affect groundwater in terms of reducing its level ( drainage).
3. Mount surface drainage at home.

Types of drainage

When choosing a specific engineering structure for installation around a residential building, it should be taken into account that there are several types of such systems.

Wall-mounted

This type of drainage is required to be installed if the house has basements and basements. Installation of a wall watercourse is carried out along the perimeter of the foundation, which is preferably done at the excavation stage when building a house.

This approach eliminates unnecessary excavation work, and this in turn reduces the cost of installing the system and reduces labor costs.

Direct laying of drainage is carried out along the perimeter of the base of the building with pipes leading from its corners to inspection wells. The lowest located part of the system should be used to construct an outlet well in this place, which, from a functional point of view, will play the role of a storage tank for atmospheric precipitation with its further removal beyond the territory of the site.

To ensure a greater level of security, it is advisable to install a so-called clay castle at a distance of one meter from the home.

Trench

If the house is located on soil that is saturated with clay and has no basements or basements, then a trench drainage system known as a ring drainage system can be used. Such a drainage channel is laid at a distance of 1.5-3 m from the building.

Here, as in the previous case, it is assumed that clay castle, the location of which should be determined by the space between the foundation and the drainage system.

It is important that the depth of the drains corresponds to a level located 0.5 m below the deepest point of the foundation. The pipes are laid on a layer of material that does not impede the passage of water, for example, crushed stone.

When is the best time to install drainage?

The most appropriate time to install systems designed to drain precipitation from the house is considered summer period, starting from the 15th of July and ending in mid-August. The choice of this time is explained extremely simply: due to the peak of summer heat falling during the designated period, the groundwater level decreases.

Although you should not relax in this case, since no one can exclude force majeure circumstances. Therefore, it is worth making sure that you have a pump with which you can quickly pump out precipitation. Still, digging trenches brings you closer to underground waters, but does not remove you in any way. I would not like the rather labor-intensive process of installing an engineering structure to have to be repeated again, since water in the trenches can cause trouble.

Drainage scheme

In practice, drainage systems such as trench and wall are used. Choice a certain option the implementation of the varieties under consideration largely depends on the following factors: soil type, terrain, etc.

Which is also called ring, finds its application in those areas where sandy soil is present. In structure, it is a closed system that accumulates atmospheric precipitation in a collector with its further discharge into ravines and various reservoirs. Such a system cannot be installed closer than 5 m from the house, since failure to comply with this requirement may cause soil shrinkage, and this in turn will negatively affect the condition of the foundation.

Wall drainage used in the presence of other conditions compared to the trench system. In particular, it is used on soils with a high clay content and characterized by high groundwater levels.

The main elements of wall drainage are drains, that is, perforated pipes. In addition, such a structure consists of wells that serve as water storage tanks and inspection pits necessary to monitor the functioning of the system at the pipe connections and at the turning points of the water pipeline.

Wall drainage of a country house is a system consisting of pipes and other elements, which is a closed structure, the location of which is determined by the perimeter of the building at a distance of half a meter from the walls of the building.

If the terrain of the area does not allow installing drainage around a private house so that water is removed from the collector naturally, care must be taken to install pumping equipment.

Installation of wall drainage

If you have a desire to arrange a drainage system yourself, then know that this work can be done by anyone. Therefore, feel free to correct mistakes made during the construction of a house, since it is advisable to install drains at the stage of construction of a particular structure.

To put your plans into practice, you should understand the basics of creating the type of system in question, and then dig trenches and lay pipes. Water conduits, known as drains, must be placed at a certain slope in relation to the storage well, which should be approximately 2 degrees, starting from the highest point of the drainage system.

If we translate this into centimeters and linear meters, it turns out that for each specified pipe length there should be a 2 cm reduction.

When laying cylindrical products without bends, inspection wells should be installed at a distance of no more than 40 m. If water pipelines are expected to have turns, then such wells should be located at a distance of no more than 25 m from those places where such bends are observed.

The pipes are installed to a depth of 30 to 50 cm from the reference point, which is installed at the level of the lower base of the foundation. In this case, one more condition must be observed: the depth of the drainage system cannot be higher than the depth of soil freezing.

At the same time, the blind area being constructed must be wide enough to prevent water from entering the soil located between the house and the drainage system. The blind area should be perceived as a layer of thermal insulation, which helps reduce the depth of soil freezing and protect water pipelines.

Foundation waterproofing

Before installing the drainage, you should carry out some preliminary work aimed at protecting the base from water penetration. To do this you will need to do the following:

• apply geotextile fabric and then cover it with bitumen mastic;
• use roofing felt, which means compulsory construction the so-called brick pressure wall;
• apply sprayed waterproofing followed by its reinforcement with geotextiles.

Installation of drains

At this stage, you can begin installing water lines. Such a process involves quite labor-intensive work, including the following:

1. Initially, you need to dig a trench to lay drainage pipes. The long ditch must be located at a distance of at least 1 meter from the foundation, provided that it is located lower than the foundation of the house. Since it is assumed that a 110 mm perforated polymer pipe will be used to lay the drainage, the width of the trench must correspond to it. The cylindrical product should not be laid close to the walls of the ditch, as this will not allow backfilling with soil properly. It is necessary that on each side of the pipe there remains free space not less than 10 cm.
2. The bottom of the trench must be leveled with a layer of sand 5 to 10 cm thick. At the same time, we should not forget that the bottom of the ditch must have a slope of 2 cm per 1 linear meter.
3. It is necessary to lay geotextiles on the resulting sand layer so that the edges of the fabric touch the walls of the trench, where they need to be securely fastened.
4. The next layer should be gravel - from 10 to 15 cm.
5. Then you can proceed directly to the installation of drains installed with a slope in the direction of the well.
6. Another layer of gravel of the same thickness as below is poured on top of the laid pipes, that is, from 10 to 15 cm.
7. Above construction material covered with a geotextile cloth, the ends of which are fixed.
8. At the last drain, installed at a distance of at least 5 meters from the house, a water receiver is installed.
9. The area under the sediment collection tank is lined with geotextiles that cover the bottom and walls. Then a plastic container is placed here, with holes made in the bottom, which is preferable to other solutions.
10. A tank with openings must be firmly secured, since heaving forces can simply squeeze it out. At the last stage of work, this structure is necessarily covered with gravel and laid on top of a layer of soil.

Caring for the wall drainage system

For the full functioning of this type of artificially created watercourse, it should be regularly inspected at least once a month. This refers to control over wells that may become contaminated, which involves mandatory cleaning of them from debris.

In spring and autumn, these types of checks must be carried out more often, since during these periods of the year there is usually a lot of rain. In the spring, snow melts, which provokes the appearance large quantity melt water Here it is already necessary to clean not only the drainage system itself, but also the storm sewer.

Drainage system around the house

Even the most reliable and high-quality foundation waterproofing cannot indefinitely resist ground moisture. Sooner or later, water will find its way through opened capillaries, cracks and mechanical defects in the insulating layer. To prevent this from happening, and to prevent the foundation from becoming a capillary pump over time and a source of dampness in the premises, it is necessary to divert groundwater away from the foundation or, at least, reduce the capillary pressure on the waterproofing surface.

The most reliable way to protect the foundation from getting wet is to remove water from it through drainage. The following describes various drainage systems and provides examples of their implementation.

What is drainage and how does it work?

If waterproofing can be compared to a wall for water, then drainage is like a drainage pump. Waterproofing and a drainage system around the house complement each other perfectly and provide the most complete protection of the foundation from ground moisture.

As you know from a school physics course, liquid, according to the law of communicating vessels, always flows into a lower place. Do not forget that in the soil moisture spreads through the capillaries quite slowly. Therefore, quick drain collected water through drainage pipes allows you to create a dry area behind them. It is this effect that is used to protect the foundation of the house.

It is not difficult to lay drainage around the house with your own hands. It is a system of perforated pipes that collect groundwater, which flows by gravity to a discharge point in a suitable place, for example, to a special well.

In any case, drainage pipes are installed at a slope. Ideally, the soil around the house has a slight slope, and there is a ravine nearby where water can be discharged. In a horizontal area located in a lowland, water has to be collected in a special storage tank - a drainage well, from where it is periodically pumped out as it fills. The accumulated moisture can be used both for technical needs and for watering plants.

Ready-made drainage pipes can be replaced with homemade ones. A do-it-yourself drainage pipe is made from orange water pipe (thick-walled pipe for outdoor installation). The effect is achieved by drilling many drainage holes in it.

Types of drainage for a private house

There are two types of do-it-yourself foundation drainage for a house: surface and deep. The first of them is necessary for draining water after melting snow and rain from the surface of the soil or blind area. Structurally, this is an ordinary storm drain. Water is collected into it along the foundation area, which has a slight slope from the wall of the house in the direction of the sewer pipe. The size of the storm drain depends on the maximum precipitation level in the area and the area of ​​the roof that collects water.

To protect from groundwater, it is necessary to equip a deep drainage system. Moreover, it should be located as low as possible, ideally below the base of the foundation.

To save money and time, some inexperienced developers combine the waste and drainage systems by organizing the drainage of roof gutters into a drainage pipe. This should not be done under any circumstances, since during rain the drainage pipe does not have time to drain the drainage water, and it actively penetrates into the soil through the perforation, causing waterlogging around the drainage. If there is nowhere to drain rainwater, you can drain it directly into a drainage storage tank, but always through its own separate pipe.

The drainage arrangement itself greatly depends on the type of soil. So for sandy soil with a high clay horizon lying above the base of the foundation, drainage should take place at the junction of the clay and sandy horizons. Heavy clay soil does not allow water to pass through well, and to determine the depth of water penetration, you will have to dig an exploration pit. On very wetlands, it may be necessary to create a local watershed using a waterproof film or even a concrete barrier in the ground.

Arrangement of deep drainage

The main element of underground drainage is a perforated drainage pipe that collects water from the ground and transports it due to its slope. The greater the slope, the more efficiently the home’s self-installed drainage works, and the more water is drained from the ground. But a strong slope leads to a sharp increase in the amount of work, especially with a large length of the water drainage system.

On the other hand, a small slope of the pipes slows down the movement of water and leads to gradual silting of the internal channels. A slope of at least 1 cm per linear meter of pipe is considered acceptable. The slope angle must remain constant throughout the drainage. Otherwise, sediment will begin to accumulate at the fracture sites, which will gradually lead to blockage of the pipes. This angle during drainage installation should be monitored using a meter gauge. bubble level and a centimeter lining.

A drainage ditch is dug along the perimeter of the foundation no closer than 50 cm from it. If the blind area of ​​the house is wider than half a meter, we dig a ditch along its edge. The minimum width of the ditch is also 50 cm. The wall closest to the foundation is made vertical. The opposite slope of the ditch has a slight slope. Further actions depend on the type of soil and the level of waterlogging in the soil.

Construction of a drainage system on light soils

If the soil does not suffer from high humidity and has a light mechanical structure, drainage can be arranged according to a simplified scheme. Water-permeable geotextiles are laid at the bottom of the ditch with overlapping edges. A layer of coarse sand and several centimeters of medium and fine gravel are poured onto it. A drainage pipe is laid on top of the crushed stone.

Then it is completely covered with crushed stone and the whole thing is covered with the edges of agrofibre. Sand and crushed stone act as a filter, trapping solid particles that can clog drainage holes. The ditch with the pipe is filled with a thin layer of small crushed stone and then with soil.

How to make drainage around a house with high levels of waterlogging

For heavily waterlogged soil, the drainage described above will not be enough. To separate excess moisture, waterproofing is first installed along the outer edge of the ditch. The simplest option to make such an artificial watershed is to cover the outer wall of the ditch with a waterproof membrane or several layers of roofing felt. The depth of the ditch in this case must exceed the level of the waterproof clay horizon or be below the base of the foundation.

For complete protection, the drainage must complete a perimeter around the foundation. The drainage point is installed in the place where the pipes are most buried. As already mentioned, a storage tank can serve to collect both groundwater and precipitation. In this case, the joint use of drainage and drainage pipes is unacceptable, and the groundwater discharge point should be located below the connection point for the rain drain.

Bottom line

A drainage system around the house provides a fairly high level of protection against the foundation getting wet. Thanks to a properly equipped water drainage system, you will be free from many problems associated with increased dampness for many years.

Drainage at home: do it yourself, step-by-step instruction, videos, tips and tricks. From this article you will learn the features of such a design as the drainage system of a house: the installation of drainage at the foundation part of the house, the rules for performing this procedure and the requirements put forward for storm drainage. You will be able to study in detail the technology for creating wall-type drainage, and also get acquainted with the prices for this type of work, performed by turnkey specialists.

The drainage system is equipped to protect the house from storm, melt and groundwater

Do not confuse the process of arranging drainage around the house with your own hands with performing waterproofing. These two concepts are incompatible, but the two technologies are not mutually exclusive. Together, they make it possible to create reliable protection for the base of a residential building from moisture.

Installation of a drainage system for a private house

Organizing a drainage system for a home, or as it is also called a drainage system, makes it possible to reduce the water level in the area suburban area or completely eliminate excess liquid.

Note! The danger of flooding is likely both from the outside and from the inside. From the outside, the foundation may be affected by flood waters and sediment accumulation. WITH inside Flooding is caused by groundwater if it lies close to the surface. In this case, waterproofing protection comes in handy.

Even high-quality waterproofing is not able to properly protect the foundation of a residential building, its basement part And basement from water penetration over a long period of time. Long-term exposure to moisture will eventually expose weak spots and holes in the waterproofing. It is simply impossible to do without foundation drainage when the groundwater level is high.

The feasibility of installing drainage around the house

Constant exposure to moisture can not only destroy the concrete foundation of a building, but also provoke the appearance of other negative impact factors. Such factors include putrefactive processes, the development of fungi and other microorganisms that can live in load-bearing structures building.

Wall drainage is necessary to remove ground, rain and melt water from the foundation

This result can be caused either by the lack of drainage of the foundation of the house, or by errors made during calculations or direct installation of the system. Even if such a problem already exists, this does not mean that the situation cannot be corrected. Advantage similar system is that the installation of wall foundation drainage can be carried out even after all construction work on the construction of the building has already been completed.

Installation for private houses is advisable in the following cases:

1. The site has a low-lying location - the lower the territory is located in relation to the surrounding landscape, the more pressing the problem of the lack of a drainage system becomes.
2. The quality of the soil does not allow moisture to be absorbed into the ground in a natural manner - loamy and clayey soil options slow down the processes of natural decrease in water level in the area.
3. The area is characterized by a high level of precipitation - storm water collects on the surface in such quantities that it simply does not have time to be removed through natural means.
4. Groundwater is located too close to the surface.

Design of foundation drainage for a residential building

Note! Drainage patterns around the houseshould take into account the presence of waterproof coatings on the site. These surfaces include paths, driveways, and rest areas that have asphalt or paved tile surfaces.

Main types of drainage and stormwater around the house

Proper drainage around the house, as well as installation of a stormwater system garden plot, easy enough. The main thing is:

• perform the calculations correctly;
• select the type of system appropriate to the site conditions;
• select the ones that are suitable for technical and operational characteristics materials;
• carry out drainage of the foundation and blind area in accordance with the requirements and technology.

Drainage system around the house

Choosing a foundation drainage system

The type of system is selected based on the conditions in the area. The more acute the problem with flooding in a site, the more drastic the protective measures must be.

Main types of surface systems:

• storm drainage or installation of surface drainage around the house. Its main advantage lies in its simple and accessible technology. Most of the work is carried out quickly and without the help of specialists. The disadvantages of this system include limited capabilities. The storm drain can only remove melt and storm moisture; it cannot cope with the problem of groundwater;
• linear system - covers a wide range of tasks, is capable of draining the entire area summer cottage and the area around the building. In this case, water moves through channels and enters the well for drainage. In most cases, channels are characterized by a linear type of placement. Special grilles are put on top;
• a point system is a do-it-yourself option for foundation drainage, which allows you to quickly remove excess moisture from locally located sources. These sources include watering taps and drainpipes. Point-type drainage is covered with decorative grilles made of metal. They prevent the system from clogging with debris and fallen leaves. From each water intake point, drainage pipes are laid around the house with your own hands in accordance with technology that involves the subsequent connection of water transmission paths to a single main line leading to the well.

Linear drainage around the house

Helpful advice! Spot and linear system can be combined to obtain combined option drainage, allowing to increase the efficiency of drainage of the area around the building.

Features of a high-quality home drainage system: cost of work

The price of drainage around a turnkey house is, of course, much higher than the cost similar works, produced with my own hands. But in this case you get:

• guaranteed quality of result;
• full compliance with all technological standards;
• accurate calculation of all parameters and correct choice of materials;
• absence of errors fatal to the system;
• high speed of organization of turnkey foundation drainage.

Cost of drainage in the area around the house(storm drain):

To the indicated cost of drainage around the house, the cost of installing each additional rainwater inlet, if necessary, is added. It is 1500 rubles/piece.

To make a more accurate cost calculation, it is necessary to take into account the number of risers leading from the roof (for each riser you should purchase a storm inlet), as well as the length of the building along the perimeter (on the basis of this indicator the molding of the system is determined).

Helpful advice! If you want to organize a system for draining storm water, it is enough to limit yourself to a shallow storm drain (up to 1 m). It will only be able to function in the warm season. A system with a depth level below soil freezing (more than 1.5 m) can handle rain and melt water. This type of sewer can be used in combination with heated cable drain systems.

Common foundation and garden drainage schemes

All drainage systems around the house can be divided into two groups according to the type of location:

• drainage at the foundation part of the building;
• garden drainage systems.

Diagram of the drainage system at a summer cottage

To organize stormwater and drainage structures for garden plots, the following schemes are used:

• "herringbone";
• "partial sampling";
• "parallel placement".

In other cases, other foundation drainage schemes are used: wall and ring.

The wall drainage placement scheme involves digging in and installing a clay castle across the entire foundation along the perimeter. The width of this element is 0.5-1 m. This type diagrams are recommended to be used if the building has a basement or is equipped with a basement floor. In this case, the depth of drainage around the house is determined by the level of placement of the floors. The pipes are placed approximately 25-30 cm lower than the floor surface.

The drainage system at the base of the house consists of:

• sand cushion;
• geotextile film;
• pipeline (internal diameter 100-200 mm);
• a layer of sand with a drainage purpose;
• soil;
• layers of clay (can be replaced with a waterproof film coating).

Ring (trench) drainage – most suitable for sandy surfaces

The ring drainage scheme around the house involves laying trenches with a distance of 1.5-3 m from the building. To prevent the penetration of moisture into the area located between the base of the house and the trench, you need to arrange a clay castle.

Helpful advice! Select the depth of the trenches taking into account the placement of the base of the foundation. You need to step back 0.5 m from it. Thanks to this, you eliminate the possibility of flooding the basement floor, as well as basements.

House drainage installation: price of foundation specialist services

As in the case of storm drains, prices for organizing a drainage system at the foundation depend not only on the length of the building along the perimeter, but also on the depth level of the drainage structure.

Arrangement of the roundaboutdrainage around the house: cost of workFull construction:

Installation of a collector well for this system, complete with pumping station, will cost approximately 35,000 rubles. Provided that the diameter of the product is 1 m.

Calculation of the exact cost of turnkey work is carried out taking into account the depth of the foundation of the house (the level of depth depends on this indicator), as well as the length of the building along the perimeter (also take into account the required distance from the wall).

Arrangement of wallhouse drainage: cost of workFull construction:

When installing drainage around the house according to this scheme, the same collector wells are used as in the previous case.

Drainage system at home: do-it-yourself drainage system

To arrange drainage for a blind area around a house or other similar system, a soil analysis is carried out at the initial stage. As a rule, such data becomes known during the construction of the foundation part of the building. To do this, several wells (4-5 pieces) are drilled in the construction zone to a depth of 5 m and the area is studied.

On clayey and loamy soils, moisture from precipitation and snowmelt accumulates in the upper layer of soil. A similar situation occurs if groundwater passes at a depth of less than 2.5 m from the surface.

Drainage around the house allows you to slow down the process of foundation destruction due to the influence of groundwater

Helpful advice! If you are not sure about own strength, entrust the choice of drainage system to professionals. If problems arise, specialists will be able to correct the causes of their occurrence.

Planningdrainage around the house: how to do it rightcalculation of freezing depth:

The table shows the maximum freezing limit. In practice, this figure is usually less by about 20-30%.

Organizing wall drainage at home: how to install it correctly

Before installing a drainage system around the house with your own hands, you need to do a number of preparatory work, since this structure will be adjacent to the foundation part of the building. Preparation includes:

1. Treatment of the base with a bitumen primer from the outside.
2. Applying bitumen mastic over a dried surface.
3. Gluing a reinforcing mesh with a cell size of 2x2 mm.
4. Dry the surface during the day.
5. Applying a second layer of bitumen mastic.

The pipe laying pattern may be affected by specific gravity soil. Data on the main soil categories are presented in the table.

Distances between drains forDIY drainage devices around the house:

Pipeline installation depth, cm	Optimal distance between pipes, cm
	Light soil types	Soils with average indicators	Heavy clay soils
450	450-550	400-500	200-300
600	650-750	500-650	300-400
900	900-1100	700-900	400-550
1200	1200-1500	1000-1200	450-700
1500	1550-1800	1200-1500	650-900
1800	1800-2200	1500-1800	700-1100

Helpful advice! When drawing up a pipeline laying plan, take into account not only the specific gravity, but also the type of soil. On sandy soils the optimal pipe laying spacing is no more than 50 m, on clayey ones - 10 m, on loamy ones - 20 m.

Technology for creating drainage at home: how to do the main body of work

The procedure for creating foundation drainage with your own hands on clay soils:

• a collector well is being installed at the lowest point of the site;
• a trench is formed along the foundation with a slope towards the drainage basin, which is adjusted using a building level;
• a sand cushion 5 cm thick is created at the bottom of the trenches;
• geotextile fabric is laid on top of the sand cushion with a margin so that the ends of the fabric can be overlapped;
• formation of a gravel cushion 10 cm thick;

Home drainage is a priority task

• installation of pipes at an angle of 2°;
• joining pipeline elements using corner connectors and adapters;
• Inspection wells are placed in the corners of the structure. A pipeline with a slope is laid from them to the drainage well;
• formation of a gravel embankment 10 cm thick;
• wrapping pipes with gravel with the free ends of geotextile fabric, which is fixed with strong synthetic ropes;
• filling trenches with earth or sand (depending on the type of soil on the site).

Arrangement of ring drainage around the house with your own hands: how to install the system

To install this system, it is necessary to make a closed system of trenches around the structure, taking into account that their depth must exceed the level of the foundation by 0.5 m.

Helpful advice! Use perforated pipes in your work. The trenches must be removed 5-8 m from the base of the house, otherwise the soil around the structure will begin to sag.

For drainage system

In this case, the trenches should also be located with a slope towards the well to collect water. The minimum slope is 2-3 cm/linear m. By adding sand or removing it, this indicator can be controlled.

Step-by-step technology for arranging drainage around the foundation:

1. Sand is poured onto the bottom of the trench and geotextile fabric is laid with a margin (the free edges must be wrapped around the walls of the trench).
2. A crushed stone cushion 10 cm thick is formed.
3. A pipeline with an element diameter of 10 cm or more with an inclination angle of 2° is being installed.
4. Inspection wells are installed in those places where the pipes are turned. On straight sections, wells can be installed at a distance of 12 m from each other.
5. An embankment is made of gravel or crushed stone (layer thickness 20-30 cm).
6. The free edges of the geotextile fabric are wrapped.
7. The trenches are filled to the top with sand and earth.

Closed drainage, subject to device technology and proper operation, effectively collects water for many years

Organizing drainage around the house with your own hands without pipes

The process of arranging drainage around the house can be done without the use of pipes and even crushed stone. Alternative types of drainage:

1. Backfill system - available materials (concrete fragments, broken bricks, stones, pieces of hardened cement) and always geotextile fabric are used as filler for trenches.
2. Drainage based on plastic bottles - material with screwed caps is laid longitudinally in trenches, covered with turf and earth.
3. Fascine system - bundles of brushwood with a diameter of 30 cm, tied with nylon laces or wire, are used.
4. Perch drainage - spacer sticks are installed at the bottom of the trenches, where small young trees or long branches are then placed.
5. Plank system - boards are placed at the bottom of the trenches in such a way as to form a triangle in cross-section, with the apex pointing downwards. Before filling with soil, it is recommended to place moss on the boards as a filter.

Foundation drainage is necessary to protect the house when the groundwater level is high

However, such systems can behave unpredictably and the service life of drainage from scrap materials cannot be predicted.

For a more detailed look at the classic technology of creating drainage around your house with your own hands, use the video below. Only in this case will you be able to achieve truly high-quality, effective and durable results. By adhering to technology requirements, you will receive reliable system drainage, even if you create a trench system from crushed stone without a pipeline.