In areas where there is no centralized water supply, it is necessary to build wells or wells. The type of source depends on the hydrogeological conditions of the area, the needs and personal preferences of the owner.

Digging wells is a time-consuming and expensive process, but it can be made cheaper by doing everything yourself. Therefore, we suggest that you figure out how to make a well with your own hands and what is required for this.

Aquifers can occur at several levels. The topmost is usually located close to the surface of the earth. This layer is called the top layer. It may be contaminated with agricultural chemicals, faecal bacteria from sewage, etc.

Verkhovodka is not suitable for feeding the well, unless the water is planned to be used exclusively for technical purposes or for watering garden plants. It should also be taken into account that during seasonal changes, the amount of water can significantly decrease or increase.

Wells are dug into the groundwater horizon. This aquifer lies below the perch. The waters in it are often free-flowing, so their level in the well is the same as in the aquifer. During the construction of hydraulic structures, groundwater is cut off from the layers of perched water to protect it from pollution.

An aesthetically designed well will not only provide the site with water, but also decorate the local area

Artesian waters lie below groundwater. Wells are not dug on this horizon, and the construction of wells is very expensive. In addition, it is necessary to issue a permit for the use of water resources.

Artesian waters are pressurized, so the water level in the well is higher than in the horizon, even gushing is possible.

Another advantage of the shaft structure over the tubular one is the ease of construction. How to dig a mine well with your own hands, you can find out by reading the specialized literature and articles.

If desired, everyone can take their advice, independently dig and equip a high-quality source of water.

A column, or tube well, is a shallow well, the walls of which are lined with a pipe, and the water is raised using a manual or electric pump.

A tubular well is built if the aquifer is not deep, and the owner can use drilling equipment. The advantage of tubular construction is faster construction. Due to the small diameter, tubular structures are less polluted. They can be built next to residential and commercial buildings.

Both types of wells have their own advantages and disadvantages. When choosing a suitable design, all the nuances should be taken into account. Since it is easier to build a shaft well without the use of special equipment, in the future we will consider the issues of digging just such a source.

The best time to start building

When is the best time to dig a well? If you start work in the spring, after floods, you can make a mistake with the depth of the mine. Groundwater rises, and until their level drops, it is undesirable to dig. Otherwise, it may be necessary to deepen the structure, because. in summer and winter water will not be enough.

The autumn rainy season is also not the most favorable time for building a well. But in the summer heat or winter it is quite possible to start work. During these periods, the water is gone. If you manage to build a workable well, it is guaranteed to remain productive in other seasons.

Winter construction is complicated due to freezing of the soil, but nothing prevents earthworks from starting in summer or early autumn. However, there is one exception. If a well is built on quicksand, it is better to dig it in winter.

The first frosts are not an obstacle for the construction of a well. You can start work even if the first snow has fallen. The main thing is that the ground does not freeze too much.

Two main ways to dig a mine

Before digging a well at home or in the country, you should decide on the type of soil and choose the appropriate method for building a mine. There are only two methods - open and closed. They differ significantly, each of them has its own characteristics.

The technology of open well digging is applicable on clay and loamy soils. For sandy and sandy soils, a closed method is more suitable.

Method #1 - Open Digging Technique

The open method of digging a well is convenient and simple. Its essence lies in the fact that you first need to dig a shaft to the desired depth, and then install concrete rings. This method is suitable for areas with dense soil that is not prone to shedding.

The mine is dug to the aquifer. If necessary, the walls are strengthened as they go deeper into the ground. The diameter of the pit should be slightly larger than the calculated dimensions of the finished structure. When the shaft is dug, its walls and bottom are equipped, and the remaining gap is covered with a layer of sand or gravel.

In order for the joints between the rings to be airtight, they are installed on a cement mortar. A good option is to use lock rings, the design of which immediately provides for the possibility of connection. A well of them will be stronger and more reliable

Method #2 - private method features

If the soil on the site is sandy, then the open digging method is not suitable, because. the risk of shedding the walls of the mine is too great. This makes work difficult and can be potentially dangerous for builders. Then use the method of digging a well "in the ring". The technology itself is more complicated than the open method, but safer.

Having chosen a place for the well, you should dig a shallow hole for the first ring. The recess can be from 20 cm to 2 m. The diameter must correspond to the size of the rings. Having installed the first ring, they begin to select the soil from the inside of the structure. The heavy concrete ring will sink under its own weight.

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Mankind, alas, cannot do without water, physiological needs affect, and it is also necessary for technical purposes. If your private house is connected to a central water supply or there is a natural reservoir nearby, this is very good. And if not, then you will either have to equip a well on the site, or dig a well yourself, which will be discussed below.

Choose a place

It is desirable that it be close to housing and to places where water will be directly needed.

Criterias of choice:

• it should be understood that water, after it passes the upper permeable horizons, can be polluted, especially if there are large sources of various pollution nearby. Therefore, do not arrange a well near compost, garbage and manure heaps, and at the point of sewage discharge. When you have to dig a well yourself on a slope, it should always be higher than the source of pollution;
• also take into account the local hydrogeological situation, for example, in a swampy area, well water will not be potable, since water from the surface will penetrate into it along with everything that gets in its way.

Where does the water in the well come from?

Before you learn how to properly dig a well yourself, you need to understand at what depth you can get high-quality drinking water or ordinary technical water. After the rains pass, the snow melts, the water begins to accumulate just above the water-resistant layer, which consists of thick dense clay.

Consider the depths of groundwater underground:

• top water - up to 5 m;
• soil - up to 10 m;
• ground - up to 40 m;
• artesian - below 40 m.

We calculate the water needs and choose the diameter of the well

The water supply of a small suburban area consists of irrigation and own needs, which requires approximately 1-2 m 3 of water. It should also be noted that the full filling of the source after its drying occurs in 2-12 hours and depends on its volume, the characteristics of the place and the season.

Tip: the smaller the diameter of the well, the faster it will fill.

If this source is drained once a day, and the water column when completely filled is up to 1 m, the diameter of the concrete rings will be 1.12 m. The owners of such wells should be reminded that water has a regeneration time, so get 1.5-2 m 3 liquid you will not succeed.

Know also that frequent filling of the source will affect the quality of the water in it, which will not have time to settle, especially. If you need it for drinking. Concrete rings with a lock are best suited for such structures.

They will provide a good density of connections, allowing to protect the well shaft from possible displacements. Their only drawback is the price, which is more than that of ordinary concrete rings without a lock. The service life of products is about 50 years.

Time for a well

If you decide to start digging it with your own hands in the spring, when the snow has almost melted, you can make a mistake with the depth of the source, since the groundwater horizon is high. Therefore, the April well will be dry in winter.

Keep in mind that seasonal level fluctuations can be 1-2 m. Because of this, experts recommend starting to dig a well in autumn and winter, at a time when the water horizon is at its lowest level. When the water horizon suddenly drops, you can deepen the source with rings with a smaller diameter.

The most acceptable depths when entering the aquifer are 5-20 m. There are wells up to 30 m, but such a construction is fraught with complications and will be unprofitable compared to a well.

Process

In fact, there are neither technical specifications nor SNiPs explaining how to dig a well on your own. It is usually built by a team of three people.

Below is an instruction that will clearly explain the whole process.

1. Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare fixtures and equipment. You will need a winch to lift the buckets, and you will also need a tripod to mount it.

In the photo - a tripod for attaching a winch

1. To work in the face, you will need a shovel and a short crowbar. All encountered stones must be tied with a rope and raised to the surface.

1. The assistant lifts the bucket and carries the soil to the dump.
2. You can connect another person who will periodically change the miner and lifter, since the work is usually intensive. Also keep in mind that after a depth of 3 m, the temperature in the structure will drop to 10 ° C, and the air will no longer be ventilated.

Tip: for artificial ventilation, you can use an umbrella, which must be lowered into and out of the shaft, improving the microclimate.

1. After the hole has been dug according to the parameters, the first concrete ring with a flat end or with a lock is inserted into it. Its weight exceeds 700 kg, so you need to be careful.

1. Pick up the soil from under it and it will slide down smoothly, making room for other rings. If it falls too deep, you can put one ring on top of the other, however, its manufacturer prescribes that the installation should be carried out using crane equipment. Therefore, all cracks and chips will only be your fault.

1. Continue building up the column until it reaches the aquifer. For a shift in dry loam or sand, a team can put 2-3 rings. In heavy soils - stony and on wet clay, work becomes hard labor.

A noticeable cooling will indicate the approach of the aquifer, when the temperature drops by another 1-2 ° C, and mini-fontanelles begin to run along the walls. In strong dry soils, you can first dig a shaft, and then lower the rings into it using a rod and collar.

Residents of country houses, developers and summer residents, in the absence of a central water supply in their personal plot, are forced to solve the problem of water supply on their own. To feel comfortable away from the benefits of civilization, underground sources are used. It is possible to provide yourself, a garden and a household with water if you build a well with your own hands.

Water well in the yard

It is very important to choose the right place for the hydraulic structure and dig it to the optimum depth. Then the composition and volume of water will be acceptable in order to use it for domestic needs and drinking. In some regions of the Russian Federation, the construction of wells up to the first aquifer requires permission from local authorities.

In order for water to meet sanitary and hygienic requirements, whether it is a well in a country house or a personal plot, the place should not be near objects polluting the soil and air:

• sewers;
• cesspools;
• sheds for livestock;
• storage facilities for fertilizers, chemicals;
• highways.

Wells are filled with groundwater located at a depth of 8-30 meters. This is the first aquifer, which is fed by precipitation, melted snow, rivers, lakes, reservoirs. That's why it's so important to keep the environment clean.

• moisture-loving plants grow well;
• the morning mist gathers;
• mosquitoes and midges curl;
• dug to a depth of 1-1.5 m, a pot with dried broken brick becomes heavier due to the absorption of water from the ground.

From time immemorial and to this day, underground springs have been searched for by dowsing. Read also in a separate article, we described in detail all known modern methods. They bend a fresh branch in a certain way and observe its behavior. In the place of water occurrence, it should vibrate. For the same purpose, metal frames or pendulums are used. The method is called dowsing. No official confirmation or refutation has been received.

More reliable research methods of engineering geophysics - electrical or seismic. Due to the high cost of testing in private areas, they are rarely used.

Perhaps the most informative source is the water level in the wells of the neighbors. It is most likely that the aquifer will be located in this way. But there are exceptions. The impermeable layers are unevenly distributed, and quicksands may be present in the underground channel.

The place for the well is chosen after a comprehensive analysis of the signs of the presence of groundwater. In order not to reduce the productivity of the well, they retreat as far as possible from the existing water intake facilities. Read also on our website an article about which ones are and which one is better to choose, we examined in detail.

The best time to dig a well

The groundwater level changes throughout the year. Fluctuations in the depth of the liquid reach 2 m. The most suitable season for building a well is after a long drought at the end of summer or in the second half of winter, when the flow of precipitation into the soil is minimal. The filling of underground sources decreases naturally.

If you dig a well with your own hands after the rains or in the off-season, it is possible that the water will leave in a couple of months and the mine will be empty.

The time for digging is chosen depending on the type of soil. Clay soils freeze with the advent of winter, the water in the capillaries turns into ice. Such land is very difficult to hollow out, it is easier to cultivate it in the warm season. Sands and sandy loams remain loose despite frosts. A well can be dug both in summer and in winter.

Installation of rings in winter

If there are difficulties in removing the top frozen layer of soil, specialized equipment can be involved for these works. Below the freezing depth, which reaches 0.7-1.2 m in the European part of the country, the sands are already quite loose and accessible for processing.

Another argument in favor of the winter device of the well is the prices for earthworks. They are significantly lower than in summer, when demand increases.

A team of three people digs a mine in 3-4 days. It has the equipment and well-established technology. If you work alone, it will take much more time. Sometimes it's weeks or even months - you need to select several cubes of rock. The work is complicated due to precipitation, soil erosion and possible collapse of the walls. It is necessary to arrange the structure in the right way so that you do not have to re-clean the bottom and remove dozens of buckets of crumbled soil.

Well types

Man began to use man-made wells with the beginning of settled life about 7 thousand years ago. They were deep pits lined with wood or stone from the inside. Having settled in a new place, people first of all dug out a source of water for themselves and animals. Agriculture, especially in warm countries, cannot be imagined without irrigation and canal systems.

Wells differ in depth and method of extracting water:

• Russian. A bucket was lowered into the shaft, laid out of logs, with the help of a gate. To prevent it from floating on the surface, a weight was attached to the edge of the container. From above, the source was covered with a well house from debris.
• Shaduf. In ancient Egypt, it was used to irrigate fields. The water was lifted by a lever mechanism. Today, similar structures are still found in the countries of Africa and Asia.
• Screw well of Archimedes. The water is extracted by a mechanism that sets in motion a donkey walking in a circle.
• Abyssinian. A pipe with a diameter of 25-63 mm and a surface pump are installed in a narrow well drilled to an underground channel. To filter water, the end of the conduit is provided with a sieve tip.

The most common designs of wells in personal and summer cottages are concrete rings immersed in the ground. The depth of the mines reaches 2-18 meters. The bottom is covered with a layer of sand, pebbles and rubble, which purify the groundwater from impurities.

Well made of concrete rings

Concrete rings are produced in various sizes:

• inner diameter - 70-200 mm;
• height - 290-890 mm.

For water wells, structures with a diameter of 1000 mm and a height of 890 cm are used. They are installed one on top of the other. For a tight fit, the rim of the rings is formed in the form of a lock. The volume of one element is 0.23 m³. For home construction, 8-12 products are most often enough.

Type of well shaft

The well consists of a water intake shaft, a shaft and a head, which rises above the ground.

There are three types of well shafts:

• imperfect - the trunk is lowered to the upper boundary of the water-resistant layer, filled through the side surfaces and the lower opening;
• perfect - the bottom of the mine rests on the underlying layer of clay, water enters only through the walls;
• perfect with a sump - the trunk is deepened into a water-resistant layer to create an additional reservoir.

If you improve the well with your own hands - arrange an expansion below the static water level, a kind of "tent" is formed with a supply of liquid.

The simplest and most common design of the mine in individual construction is imperfect. This is an inexpensive option that provides the daily need for water for household needs.

Important. An increase in the diameter or depth of a structure leads to an increase in labor costs and material consumption, which is unjustified in a suburban area.

Materials for the construction of wells

In the private sector, the following materials are used to form a well shaft:

• Wood. The log cabin is immersed in the shaft, creating the necessary support for the walls. Water seeps through the gaps and the bottom. The lower part is made of beech, bog oak, ash, elm. These rocks do not emit tannins or resinous substances. The upper crowns are made of pine, larch, cedar. They are not afraid of moisture, do not rot, but are rich in resin.
• Natural stone or brick. Wells made of these materials are durable and strong. The construction of mines is long and laborious, but the water in them is clean, without impurities.
• Concrete. The barrel is mounted from prefabricated rings or made from a monolith. In the first case, special attention should be paid to sealing the joints, otherwise contaminated surface drains will enter the well.

The top of the structure is protected from precipitation, dust and animals by well houses with a lid. They are made of wood, stone, concrete. Lined with decorative materials.

Important. Often a well in a country house serves as a bright art object that attracts everyone's attention.

Bottom filter

The bottom filter protects water from pollution by the rock particles that have risen up. It is arranged from clean, washed materials - quartz sand, pebbles, gravel, crushed stone.

Smaller fractions are poured first, then large ones:

• sand - 15-30 cm;
• gravel - 15-30 cm;
• river pebbles - 15-30 cm.

The higher the layer height, the better the cleaning. If the bottom is liquefied and the water flows quickly, wooden boards are laid first, leaving gaps, then filter materials.

To improve the organoleptic properties of water and neutralize toxic substances, it is recommended to add a small amount of shungite, zeolite or jadeite between layers. These are natural minerals that man has used for healing since ancient times.

Backfilling is mandatory on quicksand, as the well will quickly become clogged and cease to function. But the layers are laid in the opposite order - first large, then small fractions. In this case, heavy stones prevent the movement of sand in the underground channel. At the bottom, as a base, you need to put a shield made of oak, aspen, larch or stainless steel.

Bottom filters are regularly cleaned and replaced with fresh ones. Otherwise, instead of benefit, they can cause harm.

Important. Regardless of the presence of stone materials in the well, drinking water is recommended to be additionally prepared - filtered and boiled.

Definition of an aquifer

When digging a well, the question arises of how deep you need to dive if the water has already begun to seep through the walls of the mine. To find out where it is time to stop, it is worth considering all the layers passed during digging.

The top layer is fertile soil. Its thickness is 25-40 cm. Further, sedimentary rocks, sand and clay, which is an aquiclude, alternate.

Between impermeable layers, underground sources pave their way. The closest to the surface is perched water, which consists of seeped precipitation, melt water and occasional runoff. It is not suitable for domestic needs, it is too polluted, and the level is unstable, depending on the weather.

When constructing a well, they try to get to the second or third aquifer. After passing through the thickness of the soil, the water is purified and becomes suitable for consumption.

When digging, you need to stop in time - there is a danger of passing the aquifer and going deep into a thick layer of clay. It is also possible for the shaft to sink over time, which will lead to blockage of the water supply path. You need to navigate the neighboring hydraulic structures in order to "catch" the moment and not make a mistake.

Construction of a well from concrete rings

Before you make a well with your own hands from concrete rings, determine the type of soil. The method of construction depends on this characteristic - open or closed.

open way

It is used on dense clay soils that hold their shape well. When digging mines, the walls do not crumble, it is possible to carry out work in less cramped conditions than with a closed method.

The sequence of the open device of the well:

1. Dig a mine to the desired depth.
2. Upon reaching the aquifer, concrete rings are successively installed using a manipulator hoist.
3. Joints are fastened with rubber gaskets or mortar.
4. The sinuses are covered with coarse sand, the upper part is covered with clay to avoid getting inside the perch.
5. From the inside, the rings are fixed with brackets, the seams are sealed.

After finishing the work, the walls are cleaned, washed, the water is pumped out several times. Lay the bottom filter, install a well house.

If, when digging a mine, the walls suddenly began to crumble, further work is carried out in a closed way.

Closed way

This option is used for arranging wells on loose or swampy soils that do not retain their shape well. It is more difficult to work in a limited space; they use a shovel with a shortened handle. But there is no risk of wall collapse, and the rings can be mounted without the involvement of lifting equipment.

Stages of building a well in a closed way:

1. Cut off the top layer of the earth.
2. Install the first ring.
3. They dig a mine from the inside, evenly freeing the space under the reinforced concrete structure from the ground. It falls under its own weight.
4. After deepening the first ring, a second one is installed on it and they continue to dig.
5. Consistently mount structures until reaching the aquifer. The top of the last ring is left above the ground.
6. The elements are fastened together with overlays or brackets so that when the soil moves, they do not move relative to each other.
7. Seams are sealed, washed, the bottom filter is filled up.

To facilitate the installation of a reinforced concrete shaft, the lower end is equipped with a shoe with knives or the edge is shaped into a cone. The incoming water is pumped out by a drainage pump. Mechanical or electric winches are used for lowering a person into the mine, lifting buckets with earth and adjusting the position of the ring during installation.

It is almost impossible to cope with the amount of work carried out in a closed way alone. Usually a team is invited, which is equipped with everything necessary for a quick well device.

Working at depth is associated with a risk to health and life. We must not forget about security measures. A helmet is put on the head, the handle of the bucket is strengthened, strong ropes or cables are used. Regularly check the reliability of fasteners, serviceability of mechanisms.

Seam waterproofing

Waterproofing the joints between the rings is a necessary operation that will protect the water from pollution by external drains. It is performed after the installation of the shaft, as well as during the repair of an existing structure, if leaks are noticed.

Methods used for sealing seams:

• a hemp rope is placed in the gap, covered with cement mortar on top;
• instead of a rope, a bentonite swelling cord is used;
• the joint is sealed with ready-made high-speed hydraulic seals;
• the solution is made on the basis of liquid glass and the seams are filled with it.

Before waterproofing work, the seams are thoroughly cleaned, if necessary, they are moistened. As sealants, materials are used that do not change the composition of water and are harmless to humans.

Commissioning and maintenance

The walls of the well before operation are thoroughly cleaned with metal brushes and washed. Water is pumped out to absolute purity and transparency.

Maintenance consists of regular cleanings and repairs. If a deterioration in water quality is detected, its volume has decreased, mold or algae are present, and deposits have appeared on the walls of the mine, cleaning of the well is necessary.

The event is carried out manually or with the help of mechanical equipment. All the water is pumped out of the well, a ladder is installed and descending, they clean the walls with a metal scraper. Silt deposits are removed from the bottom, the stone filter is partially or completely replaced. If the trunk is shallow, dirt can be removed without immersion. Use a brush with a long handle.

After cleaning, the concrete walls can be disinfected with a bleach solution. After 24 hours, the water must be completely pumped out.

The well is quite reasonably recognized as the optimal source for organizing autonomous water supply. Its most attractive quality is rightfully considered a debit that exceeds all available options. The well does not silt up and does not require regular use like a well. The owners of suburban property may not visit the property for a long time, and the water supply will not decrease and the quality will not suffer at all. It can be cleaned without any problems. Even a home “digger” will be able to dig a well with his own hands if he has patience, at least one assistant and information about the rules for constructing a water supply source.

Questions of starting preparation

It is advisable to start any work, including digging a well, with planning and thinking through the upcoming actions. A balanced assessment and preparation will save unnecessary costs. In order for the money and effort to be invested with benefit, the future owner of a personal well needs to solve a number of important issues.

First question: to dig or not to dig?

It is advisable to start the activity on the arrangement of an individual water intake facility with an independent study of hydrogeological conditions. Naturally, we are not talking about drilling a “grid” of three to five exploratory wells in our personal area. What, in principle, can be done with a rented collapsible drilling rig. Tritely go through the neighboring properties and ask the owners:

• what water source they use;
• at what depth in their wells or wells "there is water";
• whether their water intake facilities differ in sufficient flow rate.

At the same time, we will find out how much money was invested in the construction and arrangement of a well or well. And after collecting the information, we will carefully consider the upcoming independent enterprise.

We will be able to unconditionally focus on the survey data only if all sites in the study area are at approximately the same height level. If a dacha/cottage settlement is built in a hilly area or on a slope of a river bank, information about hydrogeological conditions in neighboring areas will not provide a real picture. In the best case, the depth of the aquifer will differ from the verbally explored figure, in the worst case, there may not be any water at a depth suitable for digging a well.

Before figuring out where and how to dig a well, you should decide on the rationality of its construction. It is reasonable to dig it if the estimated depth of the well shaft is within 10-15m. In general, SNiP number 2.04.02-84 allows the depth of a mine well in loose layers up to 30m. It’s not worth investing your own efforts in digging such a deep mine. It will be too hard to lift the blade to the surface. It is cheaper and safer to order drillers with a drilling rig.

If not too clean water is suitable for supplying water to the bath, the depth of the well can be only 5-7 m. By the way, it is not a fact that the water obtained even from an artesian well, when the working is deepened by 35 meters or more, will necessarily be of a drinking category. In any case, the quality and composition of groundwater must be checked at the SES. However, the upper aquifer, fed by the so-called perched water, is acceptable only for use for technical purposes. In addition, it is usually clogged with sewage, fertilizers introduced into the upper soil layers along with atmospheric precipitation, and technical fluids.

The second question: if you dig, then where?

If we nevertheless preferred a well for the bath water supply device, we should decide on a place for its construction. It should be noted that the water intake object:

• should be removed from probable sources of pollution at a distance exceeding 25m relatively safe for water quality. But the optimal distance is 50m. Sources of pollution include cesspools, landfills, latrines, etc.;
• must be removed from the foundation at least 8 m, preferably more. Otherwise, the ground stream rushing into the well will gradually wash out the loose rock and weaken the soil under the foundation;
• should be placed in a clean, dry, slightly elevated area.

It is desirable to locate the well at the highest possible point in the direction of groundwater flow. It is impossible to determine it "by eye". You just need to orient yourself on the ground: if the earth's surface of the site has some slope, then it is better to choose a place for the well in the highest zone.

It is possible that 2-3 neighboring estates experience a similar need for a water intake facility. Then it makes sense to join forces and share the financial costs. True, it must be taken into account that viewing analogues will be required for the water supply from a well remote from the bath. They represent a narrow pit, a depth just below the water branch. The bottom needs to be concreted, it is desirable to sheathe the walls with a board or overlay with bricks. Manholes are arranged at each turn of an autonomous water supply system, as well as every 15m of a direct water supply line. They can simply be closed with a banal lid, decorated with a bush of climbing roses or an interesting garden figurine.

In general, according to the beliefs of hydrogeologists, you can dig a well anywhere. The water will still be there. The question is at what depth it will appear.

Third question: when to dig?

Definitely: digging a well should be done in late autumn. During the period when precipitation is minimal. At this time, the elevation mark of the water level is close to the lowest values. In winter, of course, it is even lower, but the upper 0.5-1.2 m of soil caught by frost will be difficult to break even with a hoe. The earth frozen to the depth of seasonal freezing will prevent the natural immersion and shrinkage of the elements of the well in the mine shaft. Yes, it's cold to work outside in the cold.

Summer and spring should initially be excluded from the possible periods for digging. The water table in summer and rainy spring reaches peak levels. You can “miss” and not dig to the required depth, reassured by getting enough water. Such a well in the autumn-winter season will grind, will not cover the needs of the owners. In addition, with the highest possible groundwater table, it will be necessary to constantly pump out in order to ensure normal conditions for earthworks in the well shaft.

Well construction technology

In a simplified way, digging technology can be described as deepening into the ground of a mine working with the simultaneous construction of walls. The walls of the well can be wooden, representing an ordinary log cabin, chopped into a paw. Concrete rings are a technological alternative to a log house. Building a well from them is much easier and much faster, but a lift is required to install the rings. For a shallow source of water intake, a concrete pipe is suitable, which can simply be lowered into a pre-dug pit, or a plastic corrugated analogue.

Most wells are now built from concrete rings. However, there are many fans of environmentally friendly wooden water intakes. Consider the most popular methods, and find out how to properly dig a reliable well with strong walls that do not allow surface runoff.

Option #1 - wooden well

A wooden well frame is traditionally assembled from crowns, using standard ones without a trace, i.e. without corner bypasses that go beyond the outer outline. The part of the log house immersed in the ground, in contact with water, is made from solid or split logs of alder, willow, birch, because. they do not affect, and even improve the quality of produced water. For the construction of the surface part, pine or oak timber is used, because these types of wood can introduce a bitter taste. Oak is initially able to change the color of water, saturating it with tannins. But this fact can be perceived only as an initial obstacle to receiving bath procedures.

For the construction of a log house for a well, logs are taken with a diameter of 18 to 22 cm, the same size of plates chopped from a log is from 14 to 20 cm. It is difficult to calculate the number of crowns in advance, but you can approximately “estimate”. It depends on the depth of the planned development and on the thickness of the material. The gaps between the crowns of the well log house do not caulk, because the caulk quickly rots in the water. But the underwater part of the log house does not deteriorate from 20 to 50 years, depending on the type of tree species, because. under water there is not enough oxygen for the development of putrefactive microorganisms. But the surface part, which is constantly in a moist state, will periodically need to be changed over the course of many years of service of a wooden well.

Step-by-step instructions describing how to dig a wooden well for a bathhouse in the country or on the territory of a personal household plot:

• we chop into a paw and collect on the surface a part of a well log house of 3-7 crowns, given that a rather heavy structure will need to be moved and lowered into the pit;
• dig a pit with a depth of about 1.5-2m. The dimensions of the pit in the plan should slightly exceed the dimensions of the log house so that there are no problems with its installation;
• we install the finished part of the well log house in the pit, we verify its horizontalness by installing a building spirit level on the upper crown. In the absence of horizontality, we correct the position of the structure by digging the ground from below in the required place with a sapper shovel;
• to lift the blade, we install a lifting tripod above the working. It can be rented or made independently from three logs by attaching a chain hoist, gate or winch to the structure. The choice of a lifting device should take into account that it will be necessary to lift not only the selected soil, but also the excavator;
• we select the soil from inside the log house, first in the center of the shaft, then under the central parts of the logs. The corners of the structure at this time rest on unselected ground;
• under the walls we bring pre-prepared supports-chocks, which should be equal in height;
• while we are deepening, our assistant cuts and builds up the next 1 or 2 crowns on top. The number of stackable crowns is determined by the fact;
• we temporarily sew the frame from the outside with a board, fasten the corners with staples or nailing a beam so that there are no distortions when lowering. We hammer nails into each crown;
• having dug the corners, we remove the supports so that the log house spontaneously settles;
• We stimulate the “tight running” of the log house in the body of the mine by blows of a sledgehammer on the upper crown, having previously placed cutting boards on its logs. If the structure rested against a dense rock or “sat” at an angle on a boulder, we build up the crowns from below. We undermine the ground to the thickness of one log and sequentially install the elements of the crowns;
• we repeat all the steps, following the above algorithm, until we “bring” the well log house to the aquifer. Well digging most often stops in the sand. If the thickness, which is also the power, of the aquifer is more than 3 meters, the base of the well should not rest against the underlying water-resistant layer so that water can freely penetrate into the water intake;
• we pump out the water that has appeared in the well and continue to work on the front of increasing depth, not reaching the lower aquiclude - clay, loam, rock;
• we level the bottom of the well shaft and form the simplest bottom filter by filling in coarse sand, then gravel, gravel or pebbles on top. The total thickness of the backfill is 40-50cm. The bottom filter will prevent water agitation;

It is impossible to predict the flow rate and thickness of a water-saturated reservoir in advance. If water comes abundantly, then the technology for building a wooden well will have to be somewhat changed. The well log house is then reinforced with pledges - logs, the length of which is at least 50 cm longer than that of ordinary logs. Because pledges are longer than ordinary logs, in the walls of the mine it is necessary to dig furnaces - recesses in the ground for their installation. You will need to go deep with the help of a box knocked down from thick boards on the surface of the earth. The soil from the mine is selected as long as the work can be carried out.

According to the requirements of the aforementioned SNiP, the above-ground part of the well should rise 80 cm above the ground. A clay castle is arranged around the working, which will prevent surface runoff and atmospheric water from entering the well. The depth of the castle, created from rammed clay or loam, is 1.5 m, the width is 0.5 -1.0 m.

Option # 2 - a well made of concrete rings

There are no fundamental differences in the construction methods of a wooden and concrete well. Construction is carried out in a similar way with a gradual build-up. The difference is that there is no need for felling. Work will go much faster and more fun. It is only necessary to purchase rings in advance, it is desirable that they be with a thorn-groove lock on the end circles. The diameter of suitable concrete rings is distributed in the range from 1m to 1.5m. The amount depends on the depth of the water intake. The lower water inlet ring must be with a factory filter in the wall.

A brief step-by-step instruction for those who decide to arrange a water supply for a bath with water supplied from a concrete well:

• we dig a mine without going deeper than 3m;
• we install 2-3 rings at the bottom of the working, the first of which should be with a filter. The outer side of the concrete well shaft is strongly advised to be treated with a sealant;
• for reliability, we connect the rings together with brackets, bolts or pins. True, ring fasteners are used mainly in cases where rings without a lock chamfer were purchased for construction. However, for your own peace of mind, you can also strengthen;
• under the base of the lower ring we tear out 4 recesses in which we place bricks or chocks;
• we dig in the space under the ring and raise the blade up. The concrete "pyramid" at this time rests on chocks;
• we remove the supports so that the well shaft settles on its own;
• we continue in the same sequence to go down and build up the rings from above;
• at the end, a filter is arranged at the bottom, and a clay castle around the ground part.

The described method is acceptable for the construction of a shallow water intake up to 6m. There is a seamless technology for building a deeper concrete well. To do this, a shoe with a cutting edge is installed on the leveled bottom of the pit, and then the formwork is mounted on it for pouring the concrete mixture. Do not forget that poisonous gas can accumulate in the well shaft! Every day before work, check the air in the mine with a gas analyzer. Do not work alone, tie yourself with a safety harness and wear a hard hat.

Digging a well on your own land means saving money and providing your site with water. Own water supply is a significant plus for a residential country house, and for a garden plot. Let's look at how to dig a well by hand and what is needed for this.

Choosing a place for a well

Before you dig a well with your own hands, you need to decide on the place of digging. under the soil layer is not located at the same depth. Sometimes the differences in the level of occurrence of the aquifer, even within the same area, reach several meters. As a result of the wrong choice of the location of the well, you will have to spend a lot of time and effort on driving these few extra meters of soil.

Another potential problem is the possible presence of hard rock under the soil layer, which it is simply impossible to overcome with a shovel. In such a situation, all the work spent on digging the water well shaft will go down the drain. Therefore, before people who decide to provide their land allotment with an autonomous source of water, the urgent question immediately arises - “how to dig a well?”.

Determining the depth of the water reservoir

It is possible to determine the depth of water occurrence using special geophysical instruments. True, not every homeowner has such equipment, and not everyone knows how to handle them. To determine the depth of the aquifer, you need to contact the nearest organization specializing in the construction of hydraulic structures.

Of course, the services of a geophysicist will cost some money, but this will avoid mistakes in determining the location of the well.

"Grandfather" methods of searching for water on the site: with their help, in ancient times, our ancestors found places where groundwater came out to the surface, where they began digging a well.

The easiest way to do this is to look at the composition of the herbs, trees, and shrubs that grow wild on your site. Each type of vegetation requires a certain supply of water.

In places where water is close to the ground, a light fog appears. Above such places in the grass, midges and mosquitoes like to swarm. Here it is easiest to dig a well on your own, without the involvement of earthmoving equipment.

For example, if some herbs love dry places, then others grow exclusively in wet areas, with a high level of groundwater. Using the presented table, you can determine the level of water occurrence by plants growing on the site.

Plants	Groundwater depth in meters
cattail	0 - 1
Poplar black	0.5 - 3
Sandy reed	1 - 3
loch	1 - 3 (up to 5)
Sarsazan	0.5 - 3 (up to 5)
Wormwood paniculata	3 - 5 (up to 7)
Whose brilliant	1.5 - 5 (up to 8)
Licorice naked	1.5 - 6 (up to 10)
Wormwood sandy	3 - 5 (up to 10)
alfalfa yellow	4 - 10

You can try to find water with the help of dowsing, or scientifically, dowsing. True, this requires certain experience and skills, and it is difficult to find a real vine in central Russia. But it can be replaced by two copper wires bent at a right angle.

If, walking along the site, hold them in relaxed hands parallel to each other, then in the place where the water approaches the surface, they should intersect. You should also watch the site in the summer, at sunrise.

What is required for work

After determining the most promising point for digging a well, you should prepare the necessary tools. From a technical point of view, it is best to dig in winter, when groundwater is at its lowest.

True, winter work is hindered by the human factor: doing hard physical labor, being wrapped in several layers of warm clothes, is not very comfortable.

To dig a well, you will need the following tools and fixtures:

• Two types of shovels - shovel and bayonet. The cuttings on them should be shortened for ease of maneuvering in a limited space.
• Crowbar or pick, for driving through dense layers of packed gravel or clay.
• Buckets for lifting waste soil. Particular attention should be paid to the reliability of attaching the handle of the bucket, in order to avoid breaking it when lifting.
• Ropes for lifting buckets. Their durability should also be given special attention.
• A tripod bed with a block or winch attached to it. It is installed directly above the well shaft and serves to facilitate the lifting of the soil.
• A plumb line to control the verticality of the mine shaft.
• Protective devices and working uniform - construction helmet, mittens, tops, etc.
• Pumping equipment for pumping water from an aquifer into a mine shaft.

More recently, the walls of the well were made in the form of a log house from logs or beams. Today, such a labor-intensive option is increasingly becoming a thing of the past. It is much easier and more reliable to make a well from concrete rings.

It is better to purchase rings with a ¼ lock for these purposes. This will make it easy to center their fit on top of each other, as well as simplify the work of waterproofing the joints.

Closed version of the dig

Before digging a well in a country house or in a personal plot, preparatory work should be done.

You should start by marking the place of the forthcoming laying of the well shaft, for this we make a rack cross template. Its size should be 20-30 cm larger than the outer diameter of the concrete rings that will be used as the walls of the mine.

Then we will remove the top layer of soil, remove the sod and delve into the soil. From time to time, in the process of digging, we monitor the verticality of the shaft with the help of a plumb line, and also measure its diameter with a lath template. The selected soil should be taken away by wheelbarrow so that it does not interfere with the installation of rings and the installation of pumping equipment.

At the initial stage, the earth is simply thrown out of the excavation with a shovel, but when deepened by 1.5-2m, this becomes difficult. To facilitate the removal of soil, a tripod with a block is installed above the shaft, through which the cable is thrown. A bucket is attached to the lower end of the cable. The assistance of a second person will be required to lift and remove the waste soil.

After deepening some distance from the surface, the first casing should be installed. The moment of its installation depends on the density of the soil - the softer and looser the soil, the earlier the ring is installed in order to avoid the collapse of the walls of the mine.

As the earth is removed from under the ring, it will sink down under the pressure of its own weight. Then we install the second ring on top, and so on.

Video instruction for digging wells:

Open digging method

In this case, we dig wells to the full depth, up to penetration into the aquifer, and only after that we begin the installation of casing rings. Such a technological method is characterized by the danger of collapse of the walls of the mine with all the ensuing consequences for a person. Therefore, open technology should be used exclusively on dense soils - clay or compressed gravel-sand.

After the installation of the casing elements, the seams should be sealed to prevent the ingress of polluted waters from the upper layers of the soil - the “top water”.

The advantage of the open digging method is that there is no need to constantly keep lifting and assembly equipment at the work site to install the rings. The crane is ordered only at the final stage of work, for the simultaneous installation of all concrete rings in the shaft.

Well bottom filter

Upon reaching the aquifer, a pump should be installed to remove the water entering the mine, and the rings should be deepened by another 1-2m. Excessive deepening at this moment should not be due to the danger of passing through the aquifer and deepening into a layer of soil that does not contain water.

After that, a filter should be equipped at the bottom of the well for natural purification of the water entering the mine. Without this, it will be cloudy, with impurities of suspended sand and clay.

It is done by backfilling stones or large gravel into the well. The thickness of this layer should reach 20cm. The second layer is filled with gravel of medium fraction (1-3 cm in diameter) with the same layer.

And on top of these two layers, the final layer of river pebbles and coarse-grained clean sand is poured. Water, rising from the bottom of the well, passes through this multi-layered filter and is purified in a natural way.

What safety precautions are required when digging a well

Digging a well in the country with your own hands, if desired, will not be difficult. But it should be remembered that earthworks carried out at such a depth are always fraught with many dangers. In this regard, when working, special attention should be paid to compliance with safety regulations.

• Initially, the work site should be fenced off or covered with wire so that random people, especially children, do not fall into the mine.
• All mechanisms and devices used for lifting the soil must be carefully examined for strength. This applies to both the tripod design itself and buckets, blocks and cables.
• It is recommended to tie a second safety cable to the buckets. It is thrown over a separate block on the frame, but its end is in the hands of a person at the bottom of the well shaft.
• With a deepening of 4 meters or more, there may be a problem with access to the clean air shaft. And when working in peatlands and swampy areas, there is a high probability that marsh gas, methane, will enter the mine shaft. Gradually accumulating at the bottom, it can lead to severe poisoning.
  To avoid this, you should consider a ventilation system: either regularly “blow out” the air from the bottom with the help of hand-held fan-type devices, or use a household compressor or even an ordinary vacuum cleaner to supply clean air to the bottom.

Creepy but fast digging of a well: