If we talk about what the comfort in the house primarily depends on, then one of the primary factors will be warmth. It is it that "breathes life" into any building, regardless of whether we are talking about a luxurious house of several floors or a small apartment in an old building. What provides warmth? Naturally well-designed heating system. Moreover, in modern conditions, it should be not only effective, but also economical, and such a balance is not easy to achieve. Although, nothing is impossible in principle, does not exist, therefore on the pages of our site we consistently tell how to create excellent heating in a home. This time our topic is: heating radiator connection diagrams. This is one of the most important points when installing a heating system, which can be implemented in several ways.

What types of heating systems are there?

In order to understand how to connect a heating radiator, you need to clearly understand which system it will integrate into. Even if all the work will be performed by masters from a specialized company, the owner of the house still needs to know what kind of heating scheme will be implemented in his home.

One-pipe heating

It is based on the supply of water to radiators installed in a multi-storey building (usually in high-rise buildings). This connection of a heating radiator is the simplest.

However, with the availability of installation, such a scheme has one serious drawback - it is impossible to regulate the heat supply. Such a system does not provide for any special devices. Therefore, the heat transfer corresponds to the design norm laid down by the project.

Illustrative diagrams for connecting radiators for different heating systems: one-pipe and two-pipe

Two-pipe heating

Considering the options for connecting heating radiators, it is naturally worth paying attention to a two-pipe heating system. Its operation is based on the supply of hot heat carrier through one pipe, and the removal of chilled water in the opposite direction through the second pipe. The parallel connection of heating devices is realized here. The advantage of this connection is the uniformity of heating of all batteries. In addition, the intensity of heat transfer can be regulated by a valve, which is mounted in front of the radiator.

Important! Correct connection of heating radiators implies compliance with the requirements of the main regulatory document - SNiP 3.05.01-85.

Choosing a radiator installation location: why is it important?

Regardless of whether a series connection of heating radiators is realized or parallel, the functional purpose of these devices is not only room heating. By means of batteries, a certain protection (screen) is created against the penetration of cold from the outside. This is exactly what explains the location of the batteries under the windowsills. With such a distribution of radiators in places of greatest heat loss, that is, in the area of ​​window openings, an effective heat curtain is created.

In this place, the battery simply cannot be. With its help, a barrier is created from the cold air from the street.

Before considering how to connect heating radiators, it is necessary to draw up a diagram of the location of these devices. At the same time, it is important to determine the correct mounting distances of the radiators, which will ensure their maximum heat transfer. So, the heating batteries are absolutely correctly located if:

• lowered from the bottom of the window sill by 100 mm;
• from the floor are at a distance of 120 mm;
• spaced from the wall at a distance of 20 mm.

Coolant circulation methods

As you know, water, and usually it is she who is poured into the heating system, can circulate forcibly or naturally. The first option involves using a special water pump that pushes water through the system. Naturally, this element is included in the general heating circuit. And it is installed in most cases either near a heating boiler, or is already its structural element.

The natural circulation system is very useful in places where there are frequent power outages. The scheme does not provide for a pump, and the heating boiler itself is non-volatile. Water moves through the system due to the fact that a cold heat carrier is displaced by a heated column of water. How the connection of radiators will be implemented under such circumstances depends on many factors, including the need to take into account the peculiarities of the passage of the heating main and its length.

Any of the four connection methods can be implemented if there is a circulation pump in the heating system

So, let's look at these options in more detail.

Method number 1 - one-way connection

Such a battery connection involves the installation of a supply pipe (supply) and a discharge (return) pipe to the same section of the radiator:

Thus, uniform heating of all sections of each individual battery is ensured. A one-sided heating system is a rational solution in one-story houses if it is planned to install radiators with a large number of sections (about 15). However, if the accordion has more inclusion of sections, then there will be significant heat loss, which means it is worth considering another connection option.

Method number 2 - bottom and saddle connection

It is relevant in those systems where the heating pipeline is hidden under the floor. In this case, both the supply pipe and the discharge pipe are mounted to the lower nozzles of the opposite sections. The weak point of such a battery connection is its low efficiency, since in percentage terms the heat loss can reach 15%. Logically, the radiators in the upper part heat up unevenly.

Method number 3 - cross (diagonal) connection

This option is designed to connect batteries with a large number of sections to the heating system. Thanks to the special design, the coolant is evenly distributed inside the radiator, which ensures maximum heat transfer.

The direction of movement of the coolant when cross-connected (1-Mayevsky valve; 2-plug; 3- heating radiator; 4- directional movement of the coolant)

The answer to the question of how to properly connect the heating battery in such a situation is extremely simple: supply - from above, return - from below, but from different sides. With diagonal connection of radiators, heat loss does not exceed 2%.

We tried to reveal the topic of possible connection diagrams for heating radiators in as much detail as possible. We hope you will be able to evaluate all the pros and cons of each of the described options, and choose the most relevant in your particular case.

Ways to connect heating radiators - possible schemes and options

The most common schemes for connecting heating radiators are proposed in this article. You will learn what the correct connection of heating radiators depends on and how to carry it out correctly.

Connection of heating radiators, piping schemes, installation of batteries

Any heating system is a rather complex "organism" in which each of the "organs" performs a strictly assigned role. And one of the most important elements are heat exchange devices - it is they who are entrusted with the ultimate task of transferring heat energy or into the premises of the house. In this capacity, the usual radiators, convectors of open or hidden installation, which are gaining popularity of water underfloor heating systems - pipe circuits, laid in accordance with certain rules, can act.

Connection of heating radiators, piping schemes, installation of batteries

This publication will focus on heating radiators. We will not be distracted by their variety, structure and technical characteristics: on our portal there is enough comprehensive information on these topics. Now we are interested in another block of questions: connecting heating radiators, piping, installation of batteries. Correct installation of heat exchange devices, rational use of the technical capabilities inherent in them are the key to the efficiency of the entire heating system. Even the most expensive modern radiator will have a low return if you do not listen to the recommendations for its installation.

What should be considered when choosing radiator piping schemes?

How is a heating radiator

If you take a simple look at most heating radiators, then their hydraulic design is a fairly simple, understandable diagram. These are two horizontal collectors, which are interconnected by vertical bridging channels, along which the coolant moves. This entire system is either made of metal that provides the necessary high heat transfer (a vivid example is cast-iron batteries), or is "dressed" in a special casing, the design of which assumes the maximum area of ​​contact with air (for example, bimetallic radiators).

Very simplified - a diagram of the device of most heating radiators

1 - Upper collector;

2 - Lower collector;

3 - Vertical channels in the radiator sections;

4 - Heat exchanger housing (casing) of the radiator.

Both collectors, upper and lower, have outlets on both sides (respectively, in the diagram, the upper pair B1-B2, and the lower B3-B4). It is clear that when the radiator is connected to the pipes of the heating circuit, only two out of four outputs are connected, and the remaining two are muffled. And the efficiency of the installed battery largely depends on the connection diagram, that is, on the relative position of the coolant supply pipe and the outlet to the "return".

And above all, when planning the installation of radiators, the owner must figure out exactly what kind of heating system is functioning or will be created in his house or apartment. That is, he must clearly understand where the coolant comes from and in which direction its flow is directed.

One-pipe heating system

In multi-storey buildings, a single-pipe system is most often used. In this scheme, each radiator is, as it were, inserted into the "gap" of a single pipe, through which both the coolant supply and its outlet towards the "return" are carried out.

Options for one-pipe heating risers in a multi-storey building.

The coolant passes sequentially through all the radiators installed in the riser, gradually dissipating heat. It is clear that at the initial section of the riser, its temperature will always be higher - this must also be taken into account when planning the installation of radiators.

One more point is important here. Such a one-pipe system of an apartment building can be organized according to the principle of upper and lower flow.

• On the left (item 1), the upper flow is shown - the coolant is transmitted through a straight pipe to the upper point of the riser, and then successively passes through all the radiators on the floors. This means that the direction of flow is from top to bottom.
• In order to simplify the system and save consumables, another scheme is often organized - with a bottom feed (item 2). In this case, radiators are installed in the same way on the pipe ascending to the upper floor, as well as on the pipe going down. This means that the direction of the coolant flow in these "branches" of one loop is reversed. Obviously, the temperature difference in the first and last heatsinks of such a circuit will be even more noticeable.

It is important to understand this question - on which pipe of such a one-pipe system your radiator is installed - the optimal tie-in scheme depends on the direction of flow.

A prerequisite for piping a radiator in a single-pipe riser is a bypass

The name "bypass", which is not entirely clear for some, is understood as a jumper connecting the pipes connecting the radiator to the riser in a one-pipe system. What is it needed for bypass in the heating system what rules are followed during its installation - read in a special publication of our portal.

The one-pipe system is also widely used in private one-story houses, at least for reasons of economy of materials for its installation. In this case, it is easier for the owner to figure out the direction of the coolant flow, that is, from which side it will be supplied to the radiator, and from which side - the output.

In any one-pipe heating system, when installing radiators, it is important to know exactly the direction of flow of the coolant.

Advantages and disadvantages of a one-pipe heating system

Attracting by the simplicity of its device, such a system is nevertheless somewhat alarming by the difficulty of ensuring uniform heating on different radiators of the house wiring. What is important to know about single-pipe heating system of a private house how to mount it yourself - read in a separate publication of our portal.

Two-pipe system

Already from the name it becomes clear that each of the radiators in such a scheme "rests" on two pipes - separately on the supply and "return".

If you look at the two-pipe wiring diagram in a multi-storey building, you can immediately see the differences.

Both risers act as a kind of collectors, to which heating radiators are connected in parallel, independently of each other.

It is clear that the dependence of the heating temperature on the location of the radiator in the heating system is minimized. The direction of flow is determined only by the relative position of the pipes cut into the risers. The only thing you need to know is which particular riser serves as a supply, and which is a "return" - but this, as a rule, is easily determined even by the temperature of the pipe.

Some tenants of apartments may be misled by the presence of two risers, in which the system will not cease to be one-pipe. Take a look at the illustration below:

There are two risers in both cases, and the heating systems are fundamentally different

On the left, although there seem to be two risers, a one-pipe system is shown. The top supply of the coolant is simply carried out through one pipe. But on the right - a typical case of two different risers - supply and "return".

Dependence of the efficiency of the radiator on the scheme of its insertion into the system

For what all that was said. what is posted in the previous sections of the article? And the fact is that the heat transfer of a heating radiator very seriously depends on the relative position of the supply and return pipes.

Connecting heating radiators, piping schemes, installation of batteries - we consider in order

Connecting heating radiators, piping circuits, installing batteries is a block of questions that often arises from the landlord. Let's try to deal with them in order.

Connection diagrams for heating radiators in a private house - installation rules and regulations

In order for an autonomous heating system to work as efficiently and efficiently as possible, it is important not only to choose the right heating devices included in its design, but also to connect them accordingly, using the optimal connection diagrams for heating radiators in a private house.

The comfort of living in the house directly depends on how competently and professionally this will be done, therefore it is best to entrust the calculations and installation of the system to specialists. But, if necessary, you can perform the installation work yourself, paying attention to the following points:

• Correct installation of the wiring.
• The sequence of connection of all elements of the system, including pipelines, shut-off and control valves, boiler and pumping equipment.
• Selection of the optimal heating equipment and components.

Choice of connection point and installation standards

Before connecting a heating radiator in a private house, you must familiarize yourself with the following installation and placement standards for these devices:

• The distance from the bottom of the battery to the floor is 10-12 cm.
• The gap from the top of the radiator to the window sill is at least 8-10 cm.
• The distance from the rear panel of the device to the wall is at least 2 cm.

Important: Failure to comply with the above standards can lead to a decrease in the level of heat transfer from heating devices and incorrect operation of the entire heating system.

Installing heating radiators in a private house in a niche or using a screen affects heat loss

Another important point that should be taken into account before installing heating radiators in a private house: their location in the premises. It is considered optimal when they installed under windows... In this case, they create additional protection from the cold entering the house through the window openings.

Please note that in rooms with several windows, it is better to install radiators under each of them, connecting them in sequential order. It is also necessary to install several heating sources in corner rooms.

Radiators connected to the system must have an automatic or manual heating control function. For this purpose, they are equipped with special thermostats designed to select the optimal temperature regime depending on the operating conditions of these devices.

Types of pipe routing

Heating radiators in a private house can be connected by one-pipe or two-pipe scheme.

The first method is widely used in multi-storey houses, in which hot water is first supplied through the supply pipe to the upper floors, after which, passing through the radiators from top to bottom, it flows to the heating boiler, gradually cooling down. Most often, in such a scheme, there is a natural circulation of the coolant.

The photo shows a one-pipe radiator connection diagram in an apartment with a bypass (jumper)

• Low cost and material consumption.
• Relative ease of installation.
• Compatible with underfloor heating systems and various types of radiators.
• Possibility of installation in rooms with different layouts.
• Aesthetic appearance due to the use of only one pipe.

• The complexity of the hydro and heat calculation.
• The inability to adjust the heat supply on a separate radiator, without affecting the rest.
• High level of heat loss.
• Increased pressure of the heat carrier is required.

Please note: During the operation of a one-pipe heating system, difficulties may arise with the circulation of the coolant through the pipeline. However, they can be solved by installing pumping equipment.

Installation of heating radiators in a private house with a one-pipe wiring using a circulation pump

Two-pipe scheme connecting heating batteries in a private house is based on a parallel method of connecting heating devices. That is, the branch supplying the coolant is supplied to the system, in this case it is not connected with the branch through which it returns, but their connection is carried out at the end point of the system.

• Possibility of using automatic temperature controllers.
• Serviceability. If necessary, flaws and mistakes made during installation can be corrected without damaging the system.

• Higher cost of installation work.
• Longer installation time in comparison with the one-pipe type of wiring.

The diagram shows an example of a two-pipe heating distribution

Radiator connection options

To know how to properly connect the heating battery, you need to take into account that in addition to the types of piping, there are several schemes for connecting batteries to the heating system. These include the following options for connecting heating radiators in a private house:

In this case, the connection of the outlet and supply pipes is made from one side of the radiator. This method of connection allows you to achieve uniform heating of each section with minimal equipment costs and a small amount of coolant. Most often used in multi-storey buildings with a large number of radiators.

Useful information: If a battery connected to the heating system according to a one-sided scheme has a large number of sections, the efficiency of its heat transfer will significantly decrease due to poor heating of its remote sections. It is better to ensure that the number of sections does not exceed 12 pieces. or use a different connection method.

• Diagonal (cross).

Used when connecting heating devices with a large number of sections to the system. In this case, the supply pipe, as in the previous connection option, is at the top, and the return pipe is at the bottom, but they are located on opposite sides of the radiator. Thus, heating of the maximum area of ​​the battery is achieved, which increases heat transfer and improves the efficiency of heating the room.

This connection scheme, otherwise called "Leningrad", is used in systems with a hidden pipeline laid under the floor. In this case, the connection of the supply and discharge pipes is made to the lower branch pipes of the sections located at opposite ends of the battery.

The disadvantage of this scheme is heat loss, reaching 12-14%, which can be compensated by the installation of air valves designed to remove air from the system and increase the battery power.

Heat loss depends on the choice of the method of connecting the radiator

For quick dismantling and repair of the radiator, its outlet and supply pipes are equipped with special valves. To adjust the power, it is equipped with a thermostatic device that is installed on the supply pipe.

What technical characteristics aluminum radiators have, you can find out from a separate article. In it you will also find a list of popular manufacturing companies.

And about what constitutes an expansion tank for closed-type heating, read another article. Volume calculation, installation.

Tips for choosing an instantaneous water heater for a tap are here. Device, popular models.

As a rule, the installation of the heating system and the installation of heating radiators are carried out by invited specialists. However, using the listed methods of connecting heating radiators in a private house , you can install the batteries yourself, strictly observing the technological sequence of this process.

If you perform these works accurately and correctly, ensuring the tightness of all connections in the system, there will be no problems with it during operation, and installation costs will be minimal.

The photo shows an example of a diagonal method of installing a radiator in a country house

The procedure for this will be as follows:

• We dismantle the old radiator (if necessary), having previously blocked the heating main.
• We mark the installation site. The fixing of the radiators is carried out on brackets, which must be attached to the walls, taking into account the regulatory requirements described earlier. This must be taken into account when marking up.
• We fix the brackets.
• We collect the battery. To do this, we install adapters on the mounting holes in it (come with the device).

Attention: Usually two adapters have a left-hand thread, and two - a right-hand one!

• To plug unused collectors, we use Mayevsky taps and locking caps. To seal the connections, we use sanitary flax, winding it counterclockwise on the left thread, clockwise on the right thread.
• We fasten the ball valves to the joints with the pipeline.
• We hang the radiator in place and connect it to the pipeline with the obligatory sealing of the joints.
• We carry out pressure testing and trial run of water.

Thus, before connecting a heating battery in a private house, it is necessary to determine the type of wiring in the system and its connection diagram. In this case, installation work can be performed independently, taking into account the established norms and process technology.

Diagrams for connecting heating radiators in a private house: how to connect the battery correctly, options

Using rational schemes for connecting heating radiators in a private house, you can not only achieve the most efficient operation of the system, but also save on heating.

Types of piping, or how to properly connect the heating battery

Providing a house or apartment with heat is the number one task in the cold season. Therefore, every man in the street strives first of all to create an efficiently working system, which would be economically justified at the same time. And since most of the heating systems are of the radiator type, the question of how to properly connect the heating batteries is one of the most urgent.

For many, this does not mean anything, especially for those who first encounter the problem of piping a heating system. But those who have already dealt with the creation of such schemes perfectly understands what is at stake.

There are not so many classifications of types of piping and piping, especially when it comes to piping radiators. Therefore, it will not be very difficult to understand this issue. Most often, it is the piping that affects the nature of the connection of battery radiators. Therefore, it is necessary to consider the classification of various heating systems and establish which one is best suited for this or that connection.

Heating system classification

The main criterion for dividing heating systems is the number of circuits. On this basis, all heating systems are divided into two groups:

1. One-pipe.
2. Two-pipe.

The first option is the simplest and cheapest. This is, in fact, a ring from boiler to boiler, where heating radiators are installed in the gaps. If it comes to a one-story building, then this is a justified option in which the natural circulation of the coolant can be used. But in order for the temperature to be uniform in all rooms of the house, it is necessary to provide for some measures. For example, build up sections on the extreme heatsinks in the chain.

The best option for such a pipe scheme is to connect the battery using the Leningrad method. In fact, it turns out that an ordinary pipe runs through all the rooms near the floor, and radiator batteries cut into it. In this case, the so-called bottom frame is used. That is, the radiator is connected to the pipe through two lower nozzles - it enters one coolant and exits the other.

Attention! Heat loss with this type of battery connection is 12-13%. This is the highest level of heat loss. So before making such a decision, weigh the pros and cons. Initial savings can turn into high operating costs.

In general, this is a good wiring diagram that pays off in small buildings. And in order to evenly distribute the coolant over all radiators, you can install a circulation pump in it. The investment is inexpensive, and the device works perfectly and requires little power consumption. On the other hand, an even distribution of heat throughout all rooms is ensured.

By the way, the one-pipe piping scheme is very often used in city apartments. True, the bottom battery connection cannot be used here. The same should be said for the two-pipe system.

Other types of connection

There are more profitable options than the bottom connection, which provide a decrease in heat loss:

1. Diagonal. All experts have long come to the conclusion that this type of connection is ideal, regardless of which piping scheme it is used in. The only system where it is not possible to use this type is the horizontal lower one-pipe system. That is, the same Leningrad woman. What is the essence of the diagonal connection? The coolant moves diagonally inside the radiator - from the upper branch pipe to the lower one. It turns out that hot water is evenly distributed throughout the entire internal volume of the device, descending from top to bottom, that is, in a natural way. And since the speed of water movement is not very high during natural circulation, then the heat transfer will be high. Heat loss in this case is only 2%.
2. Lateral, or one-sided. This type is very often used in apartment buildings. The connection is made to the side connections on one side. Experts believe that this type is one of the most effective, but only if a coolant circulation under pressure is installed in the system. There are no problems with this in city apartments. And to provide it in a private house, you will have to install a circulation pump.

What is the advantage of one species over others? In fact, the correct connection is the key to effective heat transfer and reduced heat loss. But in order to properly connect the battery, you need to prioritize.

Take, for example, a two-story private house. What to prefer in this case? There are several options here:

Two and one pipe systems

• Install a side-connected one-pipe system.
• Install a two-pipe system with a diagonal connection.
• Use a one-pipe system with lower wiring on the first floor and top wiring on the second.

So you can always find connection diagram options. Of course, you will have to take into account some nuances, for example, the location of the premises, the presence of a basement or an attic. But in any case, it is important to correctly distribute the radiators among the rooms, taking into account the number of their sections. That is, the power of the heating system will have to be taken into account without fail even with such a question as the correct connection of radiators.

In a one-story private house, it will not be very difficult to correctly connect the battery, given the length of the heating circuit. If this is a one-pipe Leningrad circuit, then only the bottom connection is possible. If there is a two-pipe scheme, then you can use a collector system or a solar one. Both options are based on the principle of connecting one radiator to two circuits - coolant supply and return. In this case, the top piping is most often used, where the distribution along the contours is carried out in the attic.

By the way, this option is considered optimal both in terms of operation and during the repair process. Each circuit can be disconnected from the system without shutting down the latter. For this, a shut-off valve is installed at the point where the pipes are split. Exactly the same is mounted after the radiator on the return pipe. One has only to close both valves to cut off the circuit. After draining the coolant, you can safely engage in repairs. In this case, all other circuits will operate normally.

Many people think that the option of connecting a radiator is not so important when it comes to heat dissipation. After all, a lot will depend on the type of heat source chosen. For example, bimetallic heating radiators have a higher heat transfer than cast iron ones. But imagine that cast-iron devices are installed according to the diagonal principle of the movement of the coolant, and bimetallic ones along the bottom. In the first case, heat loss is 2%, and in the second - 12%. The difference in losses is as much as 10%. For a heating system, this is a fairly high indicator that will affect not only the temperature regime inside the premises, but also the amount of fuel consumed. This is very important for private houses.

Today, experts give recommendations on how to increase the heat transfer of devices. To do this, a reflective panel can be installed on the wall behind the radiator, for example, a regular piece of fiberboard trimmed with aluminum foil. But keep in mind that the distance from the wall to the radiator in this case should be at least 1.5 cm.

Conclusion on the topic

What is the conclusion? Correct connection of heating radiators is an important criterion for the effective operation of the entire system. This will affect not only the temperature inside the rooms, but also the fuel consumption. And saving today has become the main indicator on which the well-being of every inhabitant of apartments and private houses depends.

How to connect a radiator correctly - professional advice

The question of how to properly connect the heating battery is one of the most relevant today. Not everyone understands that the connection scheme affects the comfort of living due to the correct distribution of heat in the rooms. And this, in turn, determines the savings.

In order for the autonomous heating system to give the maximum effect, to work efficiently and without interruption, it is necessary not only to choose the right heating devices, but also to connect the radiators. Comfort and coziness in the house depends on this.

It is better to entrust such work to professionals with the necessary knowledge and skills. In the absence of financial opportunity to use the services of masters, it is recommended to install radiators yourself, taking into account the following important points:

• competent installation of the wiring;
• the correct choice of heating equipment, as well as the entire set required for connecting radiators;
• the technological sequence of connecting the main elements of the system, such as an engineering structure made of cylindrical products, fittings, a pumping station and a boiler.

Regardless of the type of unit and the material used for its manufacture, it is important to know how to connect it correctly.

Single pipe... Hot water is supplied to the upper floor. From there, flowing down the radiators, it flows down a single looped engineering structure made of cylindrical products. This type of connection is considered the simplest. It is highly reliable and is used in all apartment buildings where central heating is connected.

To achieve this simplicity, temperature control sensors are not installed on the radiators. Therefore, the difference in the cooling of the coolant between the upper and lower floors can sometimes exceed 10 degrees. It all depends on the material from which the radiator is made.

This is why one-pipe systems are equipped with cast iron batteries. These devices have a high heat transfer, as a result of which the difference in cooling of devices between floors is reduced.

One-pipe heating systems are divided into two groups:

• without jumpers;
• with multiple jumpers.

The second type of design is equipped with a valve that allows you to monitor the flow of water, as well as a thermostat that controls the temperature of the coolant.

Two-pipe... In order for the liquid to circulate in the radiator, several looped pipelines are installed. A hot coolant is supplied through one ring, and through the other, called a return, the liquid returns for heating.

Radiators in such a heating system have the same temperature. However, the two circuits require more consumables. Similar designs are installed in cottages and luxury multi-storey buildings.

Where to integrate the radiator

It does not matter if it is connected in parallel or in series, heat supply is not the only function of such systems. Among other things, they must protect the room from drafts and cold winds.

That is why heating radiators are installed under windowsills. In such a location, the devices create a good thermal curtain in the window area.

It is not recommended to install radiators next to each other, as this is fraught with large heat losses. The density of hot air decreases, which leads to a decrease in the efficiency of the heating system.

Before proceeding with the connection of heating devices, it is required to draw up a work plan, where it is necessary to indicate the location of all products. It is also important to calculate the mounting distances that must be maintained when installing the device.

In order for the location of the radiators to be correct, the following requirements must be taken into account:

• the distance from the window sill to the battery must be 100 mm;
• a gap of 120 mm is maintained between the floor and the radiator;
• the gap from the wall to the heater must be 20 mm.

Basic battery strapping methods

1. Diagonal. In this case, the supply pipe is at the top. On each side of the radiator, a discharge line is installed at the lowest point. Such a system is taken as a standard. The heat transfer efficiency is 100%.
2. Lower. For such a strapping, the connection of cylindrical structures is carried out at the bottom of the radiator on both sides.
3. Lateral one-sided. The supply pipe is installed from the top. The discharge line is made only from one end of the battery.

Batteries with bottom connection

Types of connecting heating radiators in a private house:

• lateral;
• bottom.

The second option involves the following actions. First, two branch pipes are installed, the first of which plays the role of the inlet, the second - performs the functions of the outlet. The coolant is connected on one side, and is discharged through the outlet pipe. The installation instructions for the heating system indicate exactly where the supply pipe must be connected, where the return must be located.

Lateral connection of radiators is used where devices with more than 14 sections are mounted. A direct pipeline should be installed at the top, and a return line should be connected at the bottom. It is important that cylindrical products are on both sides.

When reconnected, the heat dissipation is reduced by more than 10%.

Manufacturers attach a technical passport to the radiator, which indicates the power of the device with a diagonal connection and the presence of a certain temperature difference.

For example, if "1900 W 70/55" is shown, therefore, the power of the device Q reaches 1.9 kW, provided that the indicated values ​​of the temperature of the inlet and outlet of the heating medium are maintained.

With a decrease or increase in the temperature regime, the power indicator also changes. In recent years, diagonal strapping has become quite popular. Such a system is installed in apartments and private houses, as it increases the efficiency of heating.

Bottom connection is considered the ideal method of strapping a battery when the number of sections does not exceed 14 pieces. Usually, this option is suitable for old multi-storey buildings where central heating is connected, and the area of ​​apartments does not exceed 20 square meters. m.

Such a scheme for connecting radiators does not provide such a high heat transfer. In comparison with the diagonal connection, it is less by about 5%. However, this technique helps to save material. The return pipe has a shorter length when connected to a riser. At the same time, the price of the device is significantly reduced.

The least effect is obtained by connecting hot water at the bottom of the radiator when the outlet is made from the opposite side at the bottom. The top of such a battery is almost always cold, so the heat transfer efficiency does not exceed 85% in comparison with the standard.

However, this setup has not been forgotten. It is used when it is necessary to hide pipes, for example, under the floor or baseboard, and make the batteries invisible. This technique is usually associated with a specific design when custom building takes place.

Installation work

First done markup to ensure proper installation and compliance with all regulatory requirements. The dots show where the brackets will be fixed.

Several types are used to install the radiator fasteners... The most common are special pins that are installed directly into the wall and then cemented.

Quite often used corner brackets, which are fixed with dowels. For reliable fastening, two such elements are usually enough.

Before installing the radiator, you must first perform preparation of threaded connection... After that, all the necessary parts for venting are attached to the heating device.

At the next stage, the following are connected:

• locking equipment:
• control valves;
• fitting;
• union nuts;
• cranes;
• thermostats.

All connections must be carefully sealed and secured with special keys.

Before applying the polymer composition, tow must be wound clockwise when the thread is right-hand, and vice versa, if it is left-handed. In this case, it is quite enough to make several turns.

After installing the battery on the brackets, its evenness is checked using a building level. If necessary, the position can be corrected by adjusting the bracket.

It should be noted that accurate horizontal placement of the device is required only in pumping systems with counter movement of air and coolant. Air pockets may appear in such pipes.

At low operating pressures, where liquid and air have the same direction, it is advisable to make a slight slope of the pipeline. This will ensure the removal of the excess gas mixture into the common line.

To connect radiators to the riser, various types of pipes are installed. In the past few years, polypropylene products have become the most popular. They are easy to install and fairly cheap. Shut-off valves and other parts must also be made of this material.

When it is necessary to connect a battery with plastic cylindrical products to a metal riser, professionals recommend replacing this section of the vertical element of the pipeline with a polypropylene structure, which significantly extends the service life of the entire system.

Conclusion

Choose the appropriate methods for connecting batteries in a private house from the options proposed in this article and be sure that with the installation of high-quality parts and the correct connection of the unit, the heating system will confirm high efficiency and reliability.

As you know, the efficiency of heat supply to a house depends on many factors: the supply-drainage scheme, the movement of the coolant, the type and power of the heat source, heating devices, the presence of control equipment, etc. And so that the created system is reliable, i.e. provided an optimal microclimate in the premises with minimal costs for maintenance, operation and repair, it is necessary to pay attention to a number of other issues, one of which is, for example, how to install a heating radiator.

In doing so, it implies consideration of such aspects as:

• places for placing heating devices (near the wall, in a niche);
• radiator parameters (type, power, dimensions);
• strapping scheme;
• features and quality of installation.

It should be noted that the problem of connecting heating devices exists not only in the design and creation of new circuits, but also in the case of replacing old equipment in operating systems.

Conditions for choosing the location and parameters of radiators

The main condition for choosing a place for installing heating devices is the creation of a thermal curtain in those areas of the room where the greatest heat loss is noted. Usually this is a part of the wall under the windows, which can be flat or made in the form of a niche, or blind fences in contact with the external environment.

It is clear that the design features will also determine the way of placing heating radiators, which, in turn, will determine the efficiency of heat transfer.

It should be borne in mind that the installation of devices on a flat wall ensures the maximum possible system efficiency - about 97%; placing them in an open niche reduces this indicator to 93%, in a partially closed one - to 88%, and completely closed - to 75%.

Figure 1 - Heat loss with different installation options for heating radiators

The selection of the required type of radiator should be based on the following principles:

• compliance of the device dimensions with the dimensions of the window-sill space (it is believed that the best option is to fill the niche area at least 75%);
• the correct choice of the power of the radiators (with the same dimensions, different models can significantly differ in heat transfer; in addition, it is recommended to provide a power reserve to compensate for various heat losses);
• reliability and durability of the heating device;
• compliance of the type of radiator with the general style of interior decoration (when creating a modern heat supply system, you should not neglect aesthetic requirements either).

Existing options for piping radiators

It is well known that heating systems are of one and two pipes. The first type is the most common and is used in both centralized and individual schemes. The second option is used, as a rule, in private low-rise construction.

In this case, the connection of heating radiators is possible in several ways:

• side scheme - implies the supply and removal of the coolant from one of the sides of the device; most often it can be found in multi-storey buildings, where the heating radiators are connected sequentially from floor to floor;
• diagonal piping - provides for the supply of heated water from one side of the radiator, and the outlet - from the opposite;

It must be remembered that in case of lateral and diagonal connection options, to ensure maximum heat transfer from the equipment, the coolant should be supplied from the top, and the return from the bottom.

• bottom or saddle diagram - supply and return are carried out in the lower part of heating devices, usually connected in series.

Figure 2 - Options for piping heating radiators

It should be borne in mind that the choice of the type of system and the most effective option for piping the radiator is possible only when designing and creating a new heat supply scheme. In operated houses, in most cases, it is possible to correctly connect the replaced devices only according to the existing option, because any adjustments (for example, changing the side connection to diagonal) either entail additional costs for the purchase of materials and installation, or are completely impossible for a number of reasons.

Features of installation of heating devices

If you have certain skills, installing heating radiators with your own hands is not a problem. However, owners of apartments in a multi-storey building are advised to contact the appropriate services to connect the replaced devices. This will help not only to avoid many problems, incl. and bureaucratic, in the future, but also get expert advice on how to install heating radiators correctly in this particular case.

The radiator connection process consists of several stages:

• preparation - includes the choice of the optimal model of the device, the acquisition of the required materials, components and tools, as well as the repair of the wall on which the radiator will be hung;

Before the installation of heating equipment, all windows must be installed, and the structures under the openings must be plastered. At the same time, it is not recommended to carry out fine finishing of the floors.
If devices are being replaced, it is first necessary to properly dismantle the old radiators and fixtures (if necessary), and then repair the surfaces.

• installation work, including wall marking; installation of fasteners or brackets; hanging the device and checking its location on the level; connection of the necessary shut-off and control valves (taps, thermostats, etc.); piping of the radiator;
• pressure testing of the system and elimination of defects.

Preparatory stage

To ensure correct connection and quality installation, the following tools, accessories and materials may be required:

• a set of special wrenches for screwing nuts, adapters, etc .;
• radiator fittings (plugs, adapters, fittings, shut-off valves, Mayevsky's air vent valve, thermostatic valves, thermostatic heads);

Some manufacturers complete the radiator with basic components, but in most cases the mounting kit will have to be purchased separately. At the same time, ready-made kits are universal and allow you to connect the device according to any of the existing schemes.

• seals;
• special thread, paste or tow for threaded connections;
• pipes.

Figure 3 - An approximate set of necessary tools and materials for connecting a radiator

If the radiator is being replaced, the supply and return are first blocked, then the old heating device is cut off and removed. It is also recommended to dismantle the existing mountings, especially when installing other types of equipment.

Installation work

This step begins with the markings that are necessary to install the appliance correctly in compliance with all regulatory requirements for indentation to building structures, as well as to determine the attachment points for brackets or pins.

Various fasteners can be used to fix the radiators. The most common are special pins that are mounted directly into the wall using a cement-sand mortar. Recently, corner brackets are often used, fixed with self-tapping screws or dowels. As a rule, two pin connections or a crumb is sufficient to ensure a reliable installation of the devices.

Figure 4 - Diagram of a heating radiator and its placement on the wall

Before hanging the radiator, you must first prepare the threaded connections on the pipes. Then the device requires the installation of a plug, a Mayevsky valve or other element to remove air. On the holes used to connect to pipes, it is required to mount shut-off and control valves, for which you first need to install a fitting, union nuts with the correct thread in the radiator, then seal them with paste, thread or tow. After that, the taps themselves, thermostats are installed and securely fixed with special keys.

Tow or sealing thread should be wound clockwise for right-hand threads and vice versa for left-hand threads. In this case, it is enough to make several skeins on the outer edge of the joint, and not wind the material over the entire surface of the thread.

After the radiator is hung on the mounts, it is required to check its level position and, if necessary, correct it by bending the pin or adjusting the bracket.

It should be noted that a strictly horizontal position of the radiator is required in forced (pumping) systems with the opposite movement of the coolant and air, where the formation of air jams is most likely.

In circuits with low working pressure or in those where air and coolant move in the same direction, a slight slope from the supply pipeline is not only allowed, but also desirable, because will ensure the removal of excess air into the line.

Figure 5 - Radiator piping diagram

Various types of pipes can be used to connect heating devices to the riser. But recently, polypropylene are increasingly used, due to their acceptable cost and ease of installation. In this case, stopcocks, which can be angular or straight, as well as other elements, must be made of the same material.

Figure 6 - Scheme of connecting radiators to a polypropylene riser

If it is required to connect a battery that has been replaced and tied with plastic pipes to an existing metal riser, it is recommended to replace some of it with polypropylene.

System pressure testing

This stage is required to check the quality of installation work, as well as whether heating radiators and other equipment are installed and connected correctly.

In the latter case, you can focus on tactile sensations (touch) or use a pyrometer. In this case, the main indicator of the correctness of the work will be the uniformity of heating of the radiators.

It should be borne in mind that in most cases there is some temperature difference in different sections or in one element in height, which is the norm with small deviations in values.

Too large a range of indicators may indicate:

• about the formation of an airlock in the system, after which it is eliminated by bleeding with the help of air vents, Mayevsky taps, etc. all radiators begin to warm up evenly; if this phenomenon occurs too often, it will be necessary to change the slope of the supply and discharge pipes;
• about the wrong (reverse) connection of the heater, when the coolant is supplied from below, and the return flow is from above (it is required to dismantle the connections and correct the error);
• about strong clogging of the lower duct with deposits and other contaminants (this can be observed in radiators that have been in use for some time; either cleaning or the purchase of new equipment is required);
• about insufficient speed of movement of the coolant or pressure in the system (it is often noted when devices are connected sideways; it is recommended to change it to a side scheme or add an extension of the fluid flow).

Various heating systems provide a comfortable air temperature inside living quarters. The vast majority of heating concepts are based on special heat transfer devices, in everyday life called batteries.

Features and rules of placement

Any heating equipment is a complex system, where each component has its own role. The most important part of the entire system is considered to be heat exchange units, which are the final link in the transfer of heat energy in the house. These are conventional radiators, open or closed convector devices, water floor heating devices, which are pipe profiles laid on the basis of certain rules.

Any type of radiator is installed indoors according to general rules. There is a specific installation order that must be followed. The installation procedure will not cause any particular difficulties, but there are many nuances in this matter. So, first of all, they affect the installation site. In most cases, the heating installation is located in areas of the most significant heat loss, for example, under window openings. Even modern energy-efficient double-glazed windows cannot trap warm air in the room. Old wooden frames need not be mentioned.

In the absence of a radiator structure under the windows, cold air masses descend along the wall and spread along the floor. The situation changes after installing the battery: warm air rising to the ceiling prevents the cold air from falling down. Remember that the effectiveness of such protection depends on the size of the heating device: it must be at least 70% of the window width. For this reason, small radiators will not provide an appropriate degree of comfort. In the lateral zones, areas with a cool air mass descending to the lower level will appear. You will be able to see the "sweating" of glass, walls. The collision points of heated and cold air will be covered with condensation, and dampness will form in the room.

Therefore, do not try to purchase the sample with the highest heat dissipation. They are suitable for areas with harsh climatic conditions. In this case, it will be useful to install a heat curtain at the front door. This is the second problem area in private residential buildings. Often, residents of the first floors of apartment buildings encounter it. The principles of placing the heater are simple: installation is carried out close to the entrance. Determine the site based on the features of the layout and the possibilities of laying the pipe.

The heating unit must be positioned exactly in the center of the window. Find the center before installing, mark it. Then, on both sides, calculate the distance to the fastening points. The gap between the product and the floor should be between 8 and 14 centimeters. If it is made smaller, then cleaning under the radiator will be difficult, a greater distance will cause the formation of zones with cool air.

Measure 10-12 centimeters between the window sill and the radiator and start installation. Closer positioning will impair convection and reduce heat output. 3-5 centimeters is the distance between the wall and the back of the device. Thanks to this gap, normal convection and heat distribution will be ensured. A shorter distance will cause dust to settle on the wall.

In addition, batteries can be installed in:

• extended inter-window spaces - a popular alternative;
• corners and "blind" walls of corner rooms - enhance the heating of spaces characterized by increased heat loss due to increased exposure to wind;
• bathrooms, storerooms, bathrooms, in which one or two sides are connected by a load-bearing wall;
• unheated entrances, halls of private houses;
• apartment corridors of the first floors of multi-storey buildings.

Modern samples of heating devices can be installed under the balcony door or above the balcony entrance.

Heating devices

Batteries are divided into several groups: radiators, convectors, registers. Radiators are the most common type. The basis of the radiators is made up of vertical separate compartments-sections. They are connected in the required number using threaded internal connections. A similar arrangement of batteries makes them versatile.

Before installing this equipment, you should determine the required number of sections to obtain the required amount of heat. The horizontal cavity of the radiator, which is formed by connecting the blocks, is called a manifold. With the help of modern developments today, less versatile, but higher quality non-separable structures are produced using welding and solid casting methods. There are no joints and seals characteristic of collapsible analogs.

Overview of battery types

Convectors are one of the one-piece types of heating units, made of tubular or cavity heat exchangers with rows of heat-dissipating fins.

They are:

• Wall mounted. The raw material for their production is steel, which explains the low price. These models will not be able to withstand water hammer, for this reason they are unsuitable for the heating main. Samples made in the likeness of a pipe bristled with plates are installed in the back rooms.
• Floor (channel). Suitable for insulating spaces near balcony doors or loggias. Thanks to their robust, corrosion-resistant base, these batteries require little maintenance.
• Skirting boards. They can function under any conditions and modes. Ideal for creating a microclimate in those rooms where other heating equipment will look impressive. They are suitable for installation in a bathroom, a pantry that is adjacent to a cold street wall or an unheated staircase.

The register is called a one-piece heating system, which was built from several smooth horizontal pipes arranged and assembled in a certain order. The unaesthetic appearance is the reason that they heat mainly auxiliary premises: garages, basements, storerooms, the entrances of some old multi-storey buildings.

Radiator devices are divided into groups based on the material of production:

• Cast iron models. Are sold at a low price. They are able to withstand all modes of operation. The service life is 50 years. Their only drawback is their high weight, which, nevertheless, contributes to the long-term retention of heat after turning off the heating.
• Steel. They are structures made of joined steel pipes. Withstand any conditions, however, the service life is shorter than that of cast iron. They are characterized by low heat dissipation.
• Aluminum. This type of structure is made of lightweight metal. Stand out for the best heat dissipation. Serves 15 years. They are installed only in autonomous heating circuits. They function in all operating temperature conditions, but they will not withstand water hammer.
• Bimetallic. Made on the basis of steel internals, which are covered with an aluminum shell. The characteristic features are similar to steel, the level of heat transfer is close to that of an aluminum radiator. It is distinguished by its high cost.
• Made of copper. They are considered "eternal" sources of heat generation for any room. But they have a very high price.
• Plastic. A novelty in the family of radiator designs. Today they are suitable only for autonomous heating schemes for private residential buildings with heat carriers heating up to 80 degrees.

The main criterion for choosing the type of radiator is compatibility with the heating structures of a residential building.

It is determined by the following technical characteristics:

• Equipment temperature. It can be found in the installation passport. Thus, panel types made of aluminum raw materials with andorized coating are used in case of high pressure in the installation. It is important to pay attention to the level of the working temperature indicator for which the pressure value is indicated in the technical documentation. Most foreign manufacturers indicate the maximum pressure level in the structure based on a temperature indicator of 60 degrees.
• Operating pressure. This indicator is different for each installation. So, aluminum representatives function at pressures from 6 to 16 atmospheres, steel ones generate heat at 9-10 atmospheres, bimetallic ones - 20-35 atmospheres.
• The size of the internal cut of the radiator tube. It is recommended to give preference to models that have a large internal duct diameter. This will prevent blockages and breakdowns from large particles in the heating fluid (particularly corrosion).

• Heat transfer. The performance of heat, the time for heating the air in the room depends on it. The heat transfer is affected by the material of manufacture of the radiator installation. The best indicators are shown by copper and cast iron samples. Aluminum counterparts are in third place. The lowest level is characteristic of steel products.
• Heating the room. An important role is also played by the total surface area of ​​the heating structure: the larger it is, the better heating is carried out. In this case, we mean the dimensions and number of units of the device. The size of the batteries is affected by the size of the window opening in the room. Since the main purpose of the radiator is to create a thermal curtain, its width should be 60% of the same window parameter.
• Appearance. Manufacturers offer a wide range of heating products of different colors, textures and configurations so that the technical device can harmoniously fit into the overall interior design.
• Various sizes of batteries from 200 to 600 millimeters high. Medium models are made from a steel base, while tall ones are represented by cast iron samples. Choose suitable ones based on the distance between the floor surface and the window.

Power calculation

To correctly determine the power of the batteries and their required number, a special formula should be applied: Q = k * A * T

In this case, Q is the power of the device, k is the heat transfer rate of the radiator, A is the surface area of ​​the heating device, presented in m², T is the temperature head of the heat carriers. Using this mathematical expression, it is possible to determine any of the values ​​if there are other indicators. As a result, you will get the maximum efficiency of the radiator, and the number of sections required to warm up a certain room based on its size and other parameters.

Sample calculation of indicators.

Suppose we need to purchase a device to maintain a comfortable temperature in a 15m² room. We carry out the following calculations - 1.5 * 1.15 = 1.725 kW. Then go shopping for the best look. Determine the size for the room you want. Also, do not forget about the level of product performance. If it is noted in the technical documents for the installation that k * A = 31.75 W per 1, and if it is assumed that the head is 35, then Q = 35 * 31.75 = 1111.75 W. The resulting result was less than the 1.725 previously calculated for the desired room.

If only this unit is installed in a 15-meter room, the generated heat will not be able to heat the room.

As a solution, you can:

• buy additional radiators (for example, 2);
• add more sections to the existing installation;
• purchase another device.

Materials and tools

Installation of a radiator unit is possible if the necessary components are available. So, the collector of any block of the product is made with an internal thread G1 (1 inch), in addition, on the left edge there is a left thread, and on the right - right. A similar opposite direction of the turns serves to combine the nodes into one battery through the use of a nipple. Consequently, several adapters will be required to allow the transition to a standard right-hand thread, which in most cases is used for 1⁄2 or 3⁄4 inch sizes. In another way, they are called futorki or transitional plugs. The size of the inner connecting diameter depends on the pipe product that will be used for the connection.

Basically, only two inputs work, and the remaining 2 should be muted. For this purpose, a standard plug (plug) with an external thread that matches this adapter is suitable. The best option for a plug is a sample with a strong O-ring that does not require additional rewinding. The “set” of foot and plug can be replaced with a standard blind plug with a suitable left- or right-hand 1G thread.

One pair of plugs (there are 4 of them in total), as a rule, are not installed. Experts recommend replacing the plug of the upper collector with a Mayevsky crane, which is a simple device that will help free the battery from accumulated air before the heating season or during preventive maintenance. This device is located diagonally to the supply pipe, in the case of a two-way bottom connection. A wrench is included with the tap to help release the air. This component is necessary for safety reasons so that a small child cannot turn on the tap and flood the apartment.

These materials are sold both separately and as ready-made assembly kits. This set consists of two pairs of pass-through plugs, one plug, a Mayevsky valve with a key. Additionally, in some kits, brackets can be found to hang the unit on the wall (3 medium batteries up to 10 blocks will require three brackets). The accessories are sold for 1⁄2 and 3⁄4 inch pipe. Installation measures, performed in accordance with all the requirements, provide for the disconnection of the device from the centralized heating for preventive, repair purposes, when replacing. Therefore, you should buy two standard ball valves with a union nut - "American", which will facilitate future procedures related to the maintenance of the device.

The fitting, which has a union nut, will be packed into the transition tubes of the structure, the valve - onto the supply pipe, then joining the unit will not cause unnecessary trouble.

With the peculiarities of the heating circuit, which include the possibility of installing adjustment devices (with excessive thermal performance of the centralized heating system or the need for fine tuning of autonomous devices), standard ball valves are replaced with other elements. For example, a thermostatic valve with a thermostatic head can be adapted to the supply pipes. They are produced in straight and angular models, depending on the methods of supplying pipe fittings to the heating structure.

Correct balancing and maximum output of the generated heat will be ensured by the control valve installed at the outlet. To preserve the settings, install a block valve, the adjusting screw (for a screwdriver or hexagon) of which is closed with a stopper. We add that you can use a ready-made thermostatic kit suitable for installation with a thermal valve, balancing valve, thermostatic head.

Mounting methods

Basically, heating equipment is fixed to the wall. It is installed under the windows to create a thermal barrier that does not allow cold air masses to pass through the glass. Install the appliance on the wall taking into account the weight and material of the wall. Cast iron samples have the largest weight. Brick and concrete walls can withstand them. Installation must be done using standard dowels. Wooden or plasterboard walls will require a special base. This support will bear the bulk of the weight. The use of a wall bracket is required to hold the radiator enclosure upright.

Bimetallic radiators also need to carefully select fasteners. Despite the lower weight compared to cast iron samples, the load they create on the wall will be impressive. In this case, it may be necessary to install a floor support component. The light weight of the aluminum models allows them to be installed on any wall.

The floor mount has a number of advantages, such as reliability, speed and the ability to accommodate any different-sized heating devices. The procedure for installing the device to the floor surface is the same as for wall mounting. Since the floor is a hard and hard surface, you will have no difficulty in choosing materials. A conventional fastening system can be used.

The only exceptions are the wooden floors in the country cottage. Here, for heavy installations, it is recommended to use a safety wall bracket to reduce the load on the floor. Decide on the area for each of the floor brackets before starting the installation. Next, secure each holder firmly. With a low weight of the device, compact legs are included in the set, the elements are fastened in a similar way.

For the design and installation of heating structures, one-pipe or two-pipe heating circuits are used. They are vertical and horizontal, and collector types are referred to as two-pipe.

The vertical one-pipe system is considered the most popular and is installed everywhere in multi-storey and multi-apartment buildings. The horizontal one-pipe method is rarely used in private buildings. Most often it is used to heat buildings with a huge territory. In this case, the pipe that supplies the liquid passes in turn all the heating installations located at the same level. The liquid is alternately cooled in each unit and is supplied to the latter when it has cooled down to a large extent.

The one-pipe option allows you to reduce the cost of purchasing, installing and further using the pipeline.

Despite its excellent technical characteristics, it may not fit into the overall interior of the room, since it has two main disadvantages:

• Frequent problems with the regulation of the generated heat in one single device. It is impossible to reduce, increase the degree of heat transfer, or turn off the entire radiator circuit. During installation, you can use a special jumper called "bypass". With its help, the radiator device can be turned off without completely shutting down. In this case, heating will be carried out in an alternate way through the supply pipes or a riser.
• Another disadvantage is the use of devices of various sizes. In order to set approximately the same level of heat transfer for the entire chain of devices, it is necessary that the first device in the chain be small in size, and the latter, on the contrary, stand out in large dimensions. Naturally, this will negatively affect the appearance of the entire room.

The two-pipe version is a variant of joining a pair of pipelines to heating devices: direct and reverse. The liquid cooled in each unit will not flow to any of the parts, but will be redirected to the boiler through the return line. The result of such a connection will be practically identical inlet temperature of the liquid. This allows installations of similar dimensions to be used.

Heating circuits based on a two-pipe connection usually have no drawbacks. The dimensions of the diameter of the supply and return pipe lines and connections are much smaller than their one-pipe counterparts. In this regard, such structures look more aesthetically pleasing when installed by an open method, and are also more suitable for hidden laying of reinforcement in a concrete floor screed or in a "shtroba" (a small recess in the wall for mounting and installing pipes, then hidden with a layer of plaster).

The main advantage of two-pipe systems is the ability to regulate the heat output in the room by installing a special element on each part - an automatic thermostatic valve. Installation of a horizontal two-pipe scheme can be carried out with top and bottom wiring. The lower wiring has one distinctive feature - the ability to stage-by-stage connection of individual sections of the structure. For example, this will be needed during the construction of the floors of a building.

The collector two-pipe version, due to the presence of engineering features, differs from others. It is being built where there is no need for a main pipeline. Here, each radiator is connected to the distribution manifold with individual supply and return lines, which allows you to connect different heating devices in one circuit and introduce "secondary" heating structures ("warm floor" lines and so on).

Connection diagrams

Before starting the independent installation of heating radiators, you should choose one of several options for connecting to the central system. The lateral (one-sided) installation method is based on the fact that a pipe product that supplies a hot coolant is connected to the upper pipe of the heating system. The outlet pipe is joined with the lower pipe, due to which a high heat transfer is obtained. The reverse order of connection (the supply element is connected to the bottom, and the discharge element to the top) will reduce the output of the generated heat. A similar method of connection in a one-pipe circuit is carried out by installing jumpers that will facilitate the functioning of the structure. If, after using this option for piping a multi-block system, the edge parts do not warm up enough, a fluid flow extension should be installed.

The diagonal installation method is based on the fact that the pipe fittings supplying the coolant are connected to the upper branch pipe of the batteries, the "return" is connected at the bottom on the parallel side of the installation. Suitable for long batteries and a large number of nodes. This option provides the maximum level of heat transfer. When connecting the supply element at the bottom and the discharge element at the top, the level of generated heat will decrease by 6-10%.

The lower version is suitable in cases where the heating pipes are laid under the surface of the floor or skirting board. It is considered the most aesthetic. The supply and return pipes are placed from below and directed at right angles to the floor. Serial connection provides for the movement of the coolant under the influence of the pressure created inside the system. Excess air is removed by the Mayevsky tap installed on the radiator. The disadvantage of this method is that work on replacement, repair or elimination of accidents will be possible when the heating is completely turned off, which is impossible in winter cold.

Parallel connection is based on wiring, where the heat carriers pass through the heat pipe, which is built into the heating structure. The withdrawal is carried out in a similar way. Taps at the entrance and exit allow changing the radiator device without shutting down the centralized heating circuit. The disadvantage of this method is the insufficient degree of heating of the installation of the structure in the case of low pressure.

Work order

Correct and high-quality installation of heating equipment with your own hands is possible if you have a set of necessary tools: tape measures, thermostats or adjusting taps, drill, level, radiator holders, drill, pencil, flax with sealant, gas welding, gas wrench, angle grinder, dowels, protective points. It is necessary to make the necessary marks and indentations of the corresponding diameter. First of all, decide on a level suitable for mounting the device.

The distance from the floor to the radiator should be at least 10 centimeters, between the central points of the piping - 50 cm, add here 5 cm of indentation from the middle of the sections, as a result, you will calculate the mounting height of the upper fasteners. Next, measure 65 centimeters and, using a level, draw a horizontal line or mark the points of the approximate installation of the holders. On the resulting line, determine the distance between the two fasteners. Based on the type of heating batteries, it can be calculated both by the brackets on the back side and by the gaps between the blocks.

Then transfer the position of the attachment points or holders 50 cm lower. Using a spirit level, draw two straight lines 50 centimeters long from the attachment points of the upper brackets. As a result, all attachment points will be obtained, where using an impact drill, you should drill holes, insert plastic plugs with brackets there and screw the resulting fasteners. At the end of this stage, you can install the radiator, remembering to check its level, and start the process of connecting it.

The devices are connected to the centralized line based on the materials used. Various types of pipeline are characterized by their own subtleties and installation rules that are mandatory in the course of work. First of all, equip a radiator or a battery with detachable elements, a Mayevsky crane, and an air vent plug. Usually taps of detachable components or "American" are installed on the lower connections, and on the upper ones - a Mayevsky valve with a plug.

To ensure the strength and integrity of the above parts in the system, use tow. For the convenience of this procedure, remove the product from the wall. Then reattach all equipment to the desired location. The next step is the very docking with the central highway. Basically, the connection and installation of radiators is carried out using a polypropylene pipe, which is joined using a special soldering device.

Plug it in, wait for it to warm up, and start working. First of all, assemble the eyeliner by soldering a threaded adapter to a piece of tube and screwing a piece of the American into it. After that, adjust the dimensions of the supply line to the required ones, connect it by welding to the tee located on the central pipeline.

A distance of 3-4 centimeters between the inner surface heat-insulating material and the sections will ensure a high-quality passage of the air mass near the heating device. With a decrease in this digital indicator, difficulty in air movement, violation of convective exchange and a decrease in the efficiency of the heating device will be observed. Attach the foil to the inner surface of the wall if it is impossible to insulate the wall using a special heat insulating agent.

The standard of living and well-being of our fellow citizens is growing every day, at the same time, new ones are replacing outdated materials and devices, and apartments and houses are being renovated with the help of repairs, to an unrecognizable state.

Heating can be one-pipe or two-pipe, forced or natural circulation.

Repair is not an easy undertaking, as they say - it can only be started. It does not matter where the renovation work is carried out, in a private house, office, or city apartment. There are always a number of questions that remain unchanged. As well as the answers to these questions.

Water supply and electrical supply, ventilation, connection of heating radiators - all these works have their own tricks and secrets, which you need to know in order for the work to be successful. For example, how to correctly connect a heating battery, it would seem that everything is simple, but in practice you suddenly have to choose, sorting out various connection schemes. Do not forget that depending on which connection scheme is used, the result will be different.

Basic options

There are several different heating systems and several connection options. In particular, heating can be one-pipe or two-pipe, forced or natural circulation.

One-pipe variants of heating networks imply such a connection in which the coolant moves from radiator to radiator in one labor, passing them sequentially. As a rule, it is this scheme that is used everywhere in apartment buildings of old buildings, at the same time, a two-pipe connection option is already being made in new city apartments.

The second pipe serves to drain the coolant from the radiator, after it was fed there through the first. This allows the coolant to have the same temperature in all sections of the heating circuit and to regulate its movement, therefore, the temperature in each specific heating device. The connection diagram of the heating batteries in the apartment is carried out depending on the underwater piping. It is impossible to convert a one-pipe system to a two-pipe system if the rest of the apartments use a one-pipe system.

Now let's look at the question of how to connect a heating radiator, depending on the needs and capabilities of each of these systems.

Enter exit

Strictly speaking, each of the options presented, how to properly connect heating batteries, has its own advantages and disadvantages. For example, the simplest way is a one-pipe connection, from one side of the radiator a coolant is brought into the upper part, from the lower part it is removed further.

The most common connection option, it is also called normative. Virtually no heat loss. It is best to supplement such a connection with a bypass, for the possibility of adjusting and repairing the radiator.

As a rule, the series connection of heating batteries is carried out according to the described or following schemes.

The easiest way is a one-pipe connection, from one side of the radiator a coolant is brought into the upper part, from the lower part it is removed further.

Diagonal

Despite its high efficiency, it is quite rare, apparently due to the complexity of the strapping and the consumption of additional materials. Carry out as follows: a coolant is brought into the upper part of the radiator - from the lower part on the opposite side, it is exited.

Leningradka

The most correct connection of the heating battery, when it comes to the horizontal laying of the riser. The input is made from the side closest to the current of the coolant, the output is from the opposite side, and both connections are located in the lower part of the battery.

Often Leningradka is supplemented with a bypass in order to be able to control the flow of the coolant and regulate the temperature in the radiators. It is named so because it was developed and first began to be used in Leningrad.

Nevertheless, despite all the originality and controllability of the considered system, it has a significant disadvantage, namely heat loss, which will amount to 15% of the total. That, you see, is not very good when you heat your house with gas for your money.

We examined above the main methods of connecting heating batteries used for one-pipe networks. Parallel connection of heating batteries in a one-pipe system is impossible, since there is no way to supply the coolant separately to each heating element.

For a two-pipe system, there is no need to build tricky daisy-chain diagrams; usually, in such networks, radiators are connected in a normative way, less often in a diagonal way.

If the coolant circulates without a pump, in a natural way, the connection always goes in a diagonal way, since it provides the least resistance on the path of the coolant movement.

General rules

Regardless of how the network will be connected to the radiators, there are general rules, the observance of which is necessary for the high-quality operation of the system:

• Mayevsky's cranes. Devices for bleeding air accumulating in radiators for one reason or another. Be sure to install them on each heating element in order to easily blow it out later if necessary;
• At an angle. Place the devices at a slight angle towards the Mayevsky crane so that air jams accumulate in this part;
• Direct eyeliner. Be sure to make sure that the pipes to the radiators come as straight as possible, without bends, the fewer bends - the less the resistance of the coolant, the better the battery warms up;
• Bypass. This is a workaround for the coolant, it must be placed two-thirds between the device and the riser, closer to the latter. It cannot be placed very close, it will heat up and the circulation will be disturbed, the diameter of the bypass must be made slightly smaller than that of the underwater pipe;
• Cranes. Installed after the bypass, they will allow you to adjust the pressure of the coolant and adjust the temperature of each section individually;
• Threaded couplings installed after the taps will help, in case of an accident or breakdown, to replace the radiator without disconnecting the entire home heating network.

These rules are simple and pretty straightforward. Do everything as it is written in the article, and your heating will work as efficiently as possible. Regarding the choice of a radiator, we can say that the most popular now are hybrid batteries, in which the steel core is surrounded by aluminum elements that transfer heat to the room.

The bypass should not be placed close, it will heat up and the circulation will be disturbed.

In addition to all that has been said, do not forget to equip closed and open systems with the so-called "mud collectors", that is, coarse filters that retain all kinds of debris that enter the heating for one reason or another, and protect the pump from breakage and clogging.

And, of course, carefully choose the suppliers of equipment and performers of installation work - the reliability and durability of the entire system depends on their conscientiousness. A competently implemented pragmatic campaign will allow, spending time, money and efforts once - never again return to the topic of heating a house or apartment.