It is not always necessary to choose the land for the site. For the most part, it frankly does not really fit the description of fertile lands: either some former peat bogs, or former sand pits, or even heavy clay soils. To begin with, we will try to determine what type of soil the land you have inherited belongs to.

Determine the type of soil

We divide all soils into four conditional types: clay, loamy, sandy, sandy loam. To determine, you can conduct a simple well-known test: take a sample of soil and carefully moisten it, adding water to the point where something can be blinded. First, a ball is molded, then we roll out a thin stick from it (approximately 3 mm in diameter). And at the third stage, we try to roll it into a ring. If the ball does not roll up, it is most likely sandy soil. If it was not possible to roll out the stick, then this is sandy loamy soil. If everything worked out, then it is loam or clay. Dry the ring. If cracks appear and the ring collapses, then it is loam. A clay ring will keep its shape well.
very poor, it contains practically no organic compounds and alo inorganic. Improve such soil by adding peat.

sandy soil are sand and clay. Improved by adding organics and peat.
loamy soil- is considered quite fertile. She knows how to accumulate moisture, stores heat, retains nutrients. You can improve such soil by adding mineral fertilizers and organic matter.
- very heavy. It is waterlogged in the rain, as it passes water very poorly, and in the heat it overheats, becomes covered with a crust, which makes it impossible to grow crops on it. To improve it, sand, organic matter are added, and sometimes it is even necessary to bring fertile land from other places.

Determine the acidity of the soil

Wouldn't it be nice to know how acidic your soil is? The plants that settled here can tell about this. For acidic soils are typical: horsetail, plantain, oak veronica, passerine sorrel. Neutral and slightly acidic soils are characterized by: coltsfoot, chamomile, field bindweed, meadow clover, creeping couch grass, field horsetail. Healthy, dense stinging nettle grows on good fertile soil.
The acidity of the soil can also be determined using ordinary school litmus paper. A little earth is taken, water is added. We wait until the whole earth gets wet. Now we put litmus paper on the soaked clod of earth and press it firmly. Red color will report strongly acidic soil. Green means neutral. Pink is medium acid and yellow is slightly acid.

Acidic soil is poorly fertile, the plants on it do not develop well enough, they often get sick. It is necessary to strive for slightly acidic, and preferably neutral soil. The acidity of the soil decreases by liming, that is, when lime dust, chalk, and lime fertilizers are added to the soil. As a rule, lime is applied in autumn, when cultivated plants are harvested. Application rates of slaked lime: for strongly acidic soils - 50 kg per 1 hundred square meters, for medium acid soils - 40 kg, for slightly acidic soils - 30 kg with a frequency of 5-7 years. Having scattered slaked lime over the surface, it is necessary to dig the soil well. It is also impossible to abuse the introduction of lime, because this leads to negative consequences.

Growing the same plants in the same place, we greatly deplete the soil. Yes, and the earth accumulates a large number of diseases. Therefore, it is necessary to apply crop rotation. This will increase soil fertility and crop yields.

Weeds are also plants, and they also deplete the earth. Therefore, weed control is simply necessary, and even when cultivated plants have already been harvested.

It must be remembered that the formation of fertile soil is a laborious and long-term process. Especially for clay soils. Manure, compost, peat - this is what will lighten and improve such soil. Before spring planting, compost and fresh manure must be applied. It is advisable to do this every season. Also, for clay soils, it is recommended to raise the beds. This will free them from excess water. The edges of the beds are best reinforced with sides. By the way, compost can be added to clay soil at any time.

Soil is a complex biological complex that includes mineral (mechanical) and organic parts, soil air, water, microflora and microfauna. The quality of growing horticultural crops in your backyard depends on this complex and a combination of influencing factors, such as climatic conditions, planting dates, variety, timeliness and literacy of agricultural practices. Also no less important when laying a garden, lawn or vegetable garden is the type of soil. It is determined by the content of mineral and organic particles.

The type of soil prevailing in your area determines the choice of crops, their placement, and ultimately the yield. Depending on this, a specific complex is developed to maintain fertility through proper processing and the application of the necessary fertilizers.

The main types of soils that owners of personal and summer cottages most often encounter include: clay, sandy, sandy loam, loamy, calcareous and swampy. A more precise classification is as follows:

• By organic composition- chernozems, gray soils, brown and red soils.

Each soil has both positive and negative properties, which means it differs in recommendations for improvement and selection of crops. In their pure form, they are rare, mostly in combination, but with a predominance of certain characteristics. Let's consider each type in detail.

Sandy soil (sandstones)

Sandstones are light soil types. They are loose, loose, easily pass water. If you pick up a handful of such earth and try to form a lump, then it will crumble.

The advantage of such soils— they quickly warm up, are well aerated, are easily processed. But at the same time, they quickly cool, dry out, weakly retain minerals in the root zone - and this flaw. Nutrients are washed out by water into the deep layers of the soil, which leads to a decrease in the presence of beneficial microflora and suitability for growing crops.

Sandstones

To increase the fertility of sandstones, it is necessary to constantly take care of improving their sealing and binding properties. This can be achieved by introducing peat, compost, humus, clay or drill flour (up to two buckets per 1 m²), using green manure (with incorporation into the soil), and high-quality mulching.

A more non-standard method of improving these soils is the creation of an artificial fertile layer by claying. To do this, in place of the beds, it is necessary to arrange a clay castle (lay clay in a layer of 5 - 6 cm) and pour 30 - 35 cm of sandy or loamy soil on it.

At the initial stage of processing, it is allowed to grow the following crops: carrots, onions, melons, strawberries, currants, fruit trees. Cabbage, peas, potatoes and beets will feel somewhat worse on sandstones. But, if you fertilize them with fast-acting fertilizers, in small doses and often enough, you can achieve good results.

Sandy soil (sandy loam)

Sandy loam is another variant of soils that are light in texture. In terms of their qualities, they are similar to sandstone, but contain a slightly higher percentage of clay inclusions.

The main advantages of sandy loam- they have a better holding capacity for mineral and organic substances, warm up quickly and hold it for a relatively long time, pass moisture less and dry out more slowly, are well aerated and can be easily processed.

sandy soil

With conventional methods and the choice of zoned varieties, anything can grow on sandy loamy soil. This is one of the good options for gardens and orchards. However, methods of increasing and maintaining fertility for these soils are also acceptable. This involves the introduction of organic matter (in normal doses), the sowing of green manure crops, and mulching.

Clay soil (alumina)

Alumina are heavy soils with a predominance of clayey and loess (silty) sedimentary rocks. They are difficult to cultivate, have little air and are colder than sandy soils. The development of plants on them is somewhat delayed. Water can stagnate on the surface of very heavy soils due to the low water absorption coefficient. Therefore, growing crops on it is quite problematic. However, if clay soil is properly cultivated, it can become quite fertile.

How to identify clay soil? After digging, it has a large-lumpy dense structure, when wet, it sticks to the feet, does not absorb water well, and easily sticks together. If a handful of wet alumina is rolled into a long "sausage", then it can be easily bent into a ring, while it will not crumble into pieces or crack.

Clay type of soil

To facilitate the processing and beneficiation of alumina, it is recommended to periodically add substances such as coarse sand, peat, ash and lime. And you can improve the biological quality with the help of manure and compost.

The introduction of sand into clay soil (no more than 40 kg per 1 m 2) makes it possible to reduce the moisture capacity and thus increase its thermal conductivity. After sanding, it becomes suitable for processing. In addition, its ability to warm up and water permeability increases. Ash enriches with nutrients. Peat loosens and increases water-absorbing properties. Lime reduces acidity and improves soil air conditions.

Recommended Trees for Clay Soils: hornbeam, pear, pedunculate oak, willow, maple, alder, poplar. shrubs: barberry, periwinkle, hawthorn, weigela, derain, viburnum, cotoneaster, hazel, magonia, currant, snowberry, spirea, chaenomeles or Japanese quince, mock orange or garden jasmine. From vegetables potatoes, beets, peas and Jerusalem artichoke feel good on clay.

Particular attention on clay soils must be paid to loosening and mulching.

Loamy soil (loams)

Loamy soil is the most suitable type for growing horticultural crops. It is easy to process, contains a large percentage of nutrients, has high air and water permeability, is able not only to retain moisture, but also to evenly distribute it over the thickness of the horizon, and retains heat well.

You can determine the loam by taking a handful of this soil in the palm of your hand and roll it up. As a result, you can easily form a sausage, but when deformed, it collapses.

Due to the combination of available properties, loamy soil does not need to be improved, but it is only necessary to maintain its fertility: mulch, periodically apply organic and mineral fertilizers.

All types of crops can be grown on loams.

calcareous soil

Lime soil belongs to the category of poor soils. Usually it has a light brown color, a large number of stony inclusions, does not give iron and manganese to plants well, and can have a heavy or light composition. At elevated temperatures, it quickly heats up and dries out. In crops grown on such soil, foliage turns yellow and unsatisfactory growth is observed.

calcareous soil

To improve the structure and increase the fertility of calcareous soils, it is necessary to regularly apply organic fertilizers, mulch, sow green manure, and apply potash fertilizers.

Everything is possible to grow on this type of soil, but with frequent loosening of row spacing, timely watering and thoughtful use of mineral and organic fertilizers. Will suffer from weak acidity: potatoes, tomatoes, sorrel, carrots, pumpkin, radish, cucumbers and salads. Therefore, they need to be fed with fertilizers that tend to acidify (ammonium sulfate, urea), and not alkalize the soil, for example.

Marshy soil (peat)

Marshy (peaty) soils are not uncommon in garden plots. Unfortunately, it is difficult to call them good for growing crops. This is due to the minimum content of plant nutrients in them. Such soils quickly absorb water, just as quickly give it away, do not warm up well, often have a high acidity index.

The only advantage of marshy soils is that they retain mineral fertilizers well and are easy to cultivate.

swampy soil

To improve the fertility of swampy soils, it is necessary to enrich the earth with sand or clay flour. You can also apply liming and fertilizer.

To lay a garden on peat soils, it is better to plant trees either in pits, with soil individually laid for cultivation, or in bulk hills, from 0.5 to 1 meter high.

Using as a vegetable garden, the peat bog must be carefully cultivated or, as in the variant with sandy soils, a clay layer should be laid and loam mixed with peat, organic fertilizers and lime should be covered with it. For the cultivation of gooseberries, currants, chokeberries and garden strawberries, you can do nothing, just water and weed, since these crops grow on such soils even without cultivation.

Chernozems

Chernozems are soils of high potential fertility. A stable granular-cloddy structure, a high humus content, a high percentage of calcium, good water-absorbing and water-retaining abilities allow us to recommend them as the best option for growing crops. However, like any other soil, they tend to deplete from constant use. Therefore, already 2-3 years after their development, it is recommended to apply organic fertilizers to the beds and sow green manure.

Chernozem

Chernozems can hardly be called light soils, so they are often loosened by adding sand or peat. They can also be acidic, neutral and alkaline, which also needs to be controlled. To determine the black soil, it is necessary to take the guest of the earth and squeeze it in the palm of your hand. The result should be a black bold print.

Serozems

For the formation of serozems, loess-like loams and loess with pebble bedding are necessary. Plain gray soils are formed on clayey and heavy loamy deluvial and alluvial rocks.

The vegetation cover of zones with gray soils is characterized by pronounced zonality. At the lower level, as a rule, there is a semi-desert with bluegrass and sedge. It gradually passes into the next zone with a semi-desert and bluegrass, sedge, poppy and barley representing it. Higher areas of the foothills and low mountains are mainly occupied by wheatgrass, barley and other crops. Willows and poplars grow on river floodplains.

Serozem

The following horizons are distinguished in the profile of serozems:

• Humus (thickness from 12 to 17 cm).
• Transitional (thickness from 15 to 26 cm).
• Carbonate illuvial (60 to 100 cm thick).
• Silty-loamy with inclusions at a depth of more than 1.5 m of fine-grained gypsum.

Serozems are characterized by a relatively low content of humic substances - from 1 to 4%. In addition, they are distinguished by an increased level of carbonates. These are alkaline soils with insignificant indicators of absorptive capacity. They contain a certain amount of gypsum and easily soluble salts. One of the properties of gray soils is the biological accumulation of potassium and phosphorus. Soils of this type contain quite a lot of easily hydrolysable nitrogen compounds.

In agriculture, gray soils can be used subject to special irrigation measures. Most often they grow cotton. In addition, beets, rice, wheat, corn and melons can be successfully cultivated in areas with gray soils.

To improve the quality of gray soils, in addition to irrigation, measures are recommended to prevent secondary salinization. It will also require regular application of organic and mineral fertilizers, the formation of a deep arable layer, the use of the alfalfa-cotton crop rotation method and the sowing of green manure.

Brown soils

Brown forest soils are formed on variegated and red-colored gravel-loamy, proluvial, alluvial and alluvial-deluvial rocks of the plains, located in the foothills under deciduous, beech-hornbeam, oak-ash, beech-oak and oak forests. In the eastern part of Russia, they are localized on foothill and intermountain plains and are located on clayey, loamy, alluvial and eluvial-deluvial bases. They often grow mixed, spruce, cedar, fir, maple and oak forests.

Brown soils

The process of formation of brown forest soils is accompanied by the release of soil-forming and weathering products from the thickness of the soil profile. They usually have a mineral, organic and organo-mineral structure. For the formation of soil of this type, the so-called litter (fallen parts of plants), which is a source of ash components, is of particular importance.

The following horizons can be identified:

• Forest litter (0.5 to 5 cm thick).
• Rough humus humus.
• Humus (up to 20 cm thick).
• Transitional (thickness from 25 to 50 cm).
• Maternal.

The main characteristics and composition of brown forest soils vary significantly from one horizon to another. In general, these are soils saturated with humus, the content of which reaches 16%. A significant part of its components is occupied by fulvic acids. Soils of the presented type are acidic or slightly acidic. They often undergo processes of claying. Sometimes the upper horizons are depleted in silty components.

In agriculture, brown forest soils are traditionally used for growing vegetables, cereals, fruit and industrial crops.

To determine what type of soil prevails on your site, it is best to contact specialists. You will be helped to find out not only the type of soil by the content of minerals, but also the presence of phosphorus, potassium, magnesium and other useful microelements in it.

Each of us who is at least a little familiar with biology understands that the success of growing horticultural crops immediately depends on a combination of many versatile factors. Climatic conditions, planting dates, variety, timeliness and literacy of agricultural practices - these are far from all that have a direct impact on the harvest.

Chernozem, humus-rich soil. © NRCS Soil Health

One of the fundamental points that often plays a dominant role in the outcome of laying a garden and laying out a vegetable garden is the type of soil. It is on what kind of soil is on your site that the possibility of growing certain crops, the need for certain fertilizers, the frequency of watering and weeding will depend. Yes Yes! All this can have significant differences and be beneficial or harmful if you do not know what kind of soil you are dealing with.

Main types of soils

The main types of soils that gardeners in Russia most often encounter are: clay, sandy, sandy loam, loamy, calcareous and swampy. Each of them has both positive and negative properties, which means it differs in recommendations for improving and selecting crops. In their pure form, they are rare, mostly in combination, but with a predominance of certain characteristics. Knowing these properties is 80% of the success of a good harvest.

Clay soil. © nosprayhawaii

It is quite easy to determine the clay soil: after digging, it has a coarse-grained dense structure, sticks to the feet in rainy weather, does not absorb water well, and easily sticks together. If you roll a long sausage from a handful of such earth (wet), it can be easily bent into a ring, while it will not crumble into pieces or crack.

Due to the high density, such soil is considered heavy. It warms up slowly, is poorly ventilated, and has a low water absorption coefficient. Therefore, growing crops on it is quite problematic. However, if clay soil is properly cultivated, it can become quite fertile.

To facilitate and enrich this type of soil, it is recommended to periodically apply sand, peat, ash and lime. Sand reduces moisture content. Ash enriches with nutrients. Peat loosens and increases water-absorbing properties. Lime reduces acidity and improves soil air conditions.

How much to contribute is an individual question, directly related to the indicators of your particular soil, which can only be accurately determined in laboratory conditions. But, in general: sand - no more than 40 kg per 1 m², lime - about 300-400 g per m², for deep digging once every 4 years (on soils with a slightly acidic reaction), there are no restrictions for peat and ash. If there is a choice of organics, then the best option for increasing the fertility of clay soils is horse manure. It will not be useless to sow green manure, such as mustard, rye, oats.

Plants on clay soils have a hard time. Poor warming of the roots, lack of oxygen, stagnant moisture, the formation of a soil crust do not work in favor of the crop. But still, trees and shrubs, having a fairly powerful root system, tolerate this type of soil well. From vegetables on clay, potatoes, beets, peas and Jerusalem artichoke feel good.

For other crops, we can recommend high beds, planting on ridges, the use of a smaller depth of seed and tubers planting in the soil, planting seedlings in an oblique way (for better heating of the root system). Among agricultural practices, special attention should be paid to loosening and mulching on clay soils.

Sandy soil. © extension

Sandy soil refers to light soil types. It is also not difficult to recognize it: it is loose, free-flowing, easily passes water. If you pick up a handful of such earth and try to form a lump, nothing will work.

All the qualities inherent in sandy soils are both their plus and minus. Such soils warm up quickly, are well aerated, are easily cultivated, but at the same time they cool quickly, dry out quickly, and weakly retain minerals in the root zone (nutrients are washed out by water into the deep layers of the soil). As a result, they are poor in the presence of useful microflora and are poorly suited for growing any crops.

To increase the fertility of such soils, it is necessary to constantly improve their compacting and binding properties. Regular application of peat, compost, humus, clay or drill flour (up to two buckets per 1 m²), the use of green manure (with incorporation into the soil), high-quality mulching after 3-4 years give a decent stable result.

But even if the site is still in the process of cultivation, it is possible to grow carrots, onions, melons, strawberries, currants, fruit trees on it. Cabbage, peas, potatoes and beets will feel somewhat worse on sandy soils, but if you fertilize them with fast-acting fertilizers, in small doses and often enough, you can achieve good results.

For those who do not want to mess with cultivation, there is another way to improve these soils - the creation of an artificial fertile layer by claying. To do this, in place of the beds, it is necessary to arrange a clay castle (lay out clay with a layer of 5-6 cm) and pour 30-35 cm of sandy or loamy soil taken from the side onto it.

Sandy soil. © pictonsandandsoil

Sandy loamy soil is another variant of soils that are light in texture. In its qualities, it is similar to sandy soils, but contains a slightly higher percentage of clay inclusions, which means it has a better holding capacity for mineral and organic substances, not only warms up quickly, but also retains heat for a long time, passes moisture less and dries out more slowly, is well aerated and easy to process.

You can determine it by the same method of squeezing a handful of moist earth into a sausage or lump: if it forms, but does not hold its shape well, you have sandy loam soil in front of you.

Anything can grow on such soils, with the usual methods of agricultural technology and the choice of zoned varieties. This is one of the good options for gardens and orchards. However, methods of increasing and maintaining fertility for these soils will also not be superfluous. It is recommended to regularly apply organic matter (in normal doses), sow green manure crops, and mulch them.

Loamy soil. © gardendrum

Loamy soil is the most suitable type of soil for growing horticultural crops. It is easy to process, contains a large percentage of nutrients, has high air and water permeability, is able not only to retain moisture, but also to evenly distribute it over the thickness of the horizon, and retains heat well. If you take a handful of such earth in the palm of your hand and roll it up, then you can easily form a sausage, which, however, cannot be bent into a ring, since it will fall apart when deformed.

Due to the combination of existing properties, loamy soil does not need to be improved, but it is only necessary to maintain its fertility: mulch, apply manure for autumn digging (3-4 kg per 1 sq. M.) And, if necessary, feed the crops planted on it with mineral fertilizers. Everything can be grown on loamy soils.

lime soil. © midhants

Lime soil belongs to the category of poor soils. Usually it has a light brown color, a large number of stony inclusions, is characterized by an alkaline environment, quickly heats up and dries up at elevated temperatures, poorly gives iron and manganese to plants, and can have a heavy or light composition. In crops grown on such soil, foliage turns yellow and unsatisfactory growth is observed.

To improve the structure and increase the fertility of calcareous soils, it is necessary to regularly apply organic fertilizers, and not only for the main cultivation, but also in the form of mulch, sow green manure, and apply potash fertilizers.

Everything is possible to grow on this type of soil, but with frequent loosening of row spacing, timely watering and thoughtful use of mineral and organic fertilizers. Potatoes, tomatoes, sorrel, carrots, pumpkins, radishes, cucumbers and lettuces will suffer from low acidity, so they need to be fed with fertilizers that tend to acidify rather than alkalize the soil (for example, ammonium sulfate, urea).

Peat medium decomposed horizon of soddy-podzolic soil. © own work

swampy soil

Marshy or peaty soils are also used for laying out horticultural plots. However, it is quite difficult to call them good for growing crops: the nutrients contained in them are not very accessible to plants, they absorb water quickly, but they also give it away just as quickly, they warm up poorly, and often have a high acidity index. But, such soils retain mineral fertilizers well and are easy to cultivate.

In order to improve the fertility of swampy soils, it is necessary to saturate the earth with sand (for this it is necessary to carry out deep digging in such a way as to raise the sand from the lower layers) or clay flour, apply abundant liming on especially acidic options, take care to increase the content of beneficial microorganisms in the soil (apply manure, slurry, compost, do not bypass microbiological additives), do not forget about potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.

If you lay a garden on peat soils, then it is better to plant trees either in pits, with soil individually laid for cultivation, or in bulk hills, from 0.5 to 1 m high.

Under the garden, carefully cultivate the ground, or, as in the variant with sandy soils, lay a clay layer and already fill it with loam mixed with peat, organic fertilizers and lime. But if you grow only gooseberries, currants, chokeberries and garden strawberries, then you can do nothing - just water and weed, since these crops on such soils work out without cultivation.

Chernozem. © carlbagge

Chernozems

And, of course, speaking of soils, it is difficult not to mention chernozems. In our suburban areas, they are not so common, but worthy of special attention.

Chernozems are soils of high potential fertility. A stable granular-cloddy structure, a high humus content, a high percentage of calcium, good water-absorbing and water-retaining abilities allow us to recommend them as the best option for growing crops. However, like any other soil, they tend to be depleted from constant use, therefore, already 2-3 years after their development, it is recommended to apply organic fertilizers to the beds and sow green manure.

In addition, chernozems can hardly be called light soils; therefore, they are often loosened by adding sand or peat. They can also be acidic, neutral and alkaline, which also requires its own adjustment.

Chernozem. © Axel Hindemith

To understand that you really have black soil in front of you, you need to take the guest of the earth and squeeze it in your palm, a black greasy print should remain on your hand.

Some confuse chernozem with peat - there is also a trick for checking: a wet lump of soil must be squeezed out in your hand and put in the sun - peat will dry instantly, while chernozem will retain moisture for a long time.

Soil type is important for plant growth for several reasons. Soil provides plant roots with nutrients, water and air. The soil also serves to securely hold the plant.

The type of soil prevailing in your area determines the choice of crops, their placement, and ultimately the yield. Depending on the type of soil, it is necessary to plan the application of fertilizers.

Soil composition

Soil contains three minerals: sand, silt and clay.. The largest are sand particles, medium sized silt particles, and the smallest clay particles. In addition, the soil contains organic elements, water and air.

An ideal soil is 45 percent mineral (sand, silt, and clay), five percent organic material (humus, plant debris, soil organisms), 25 percent water, and 25 percent air.

The type of soil is determined by the composition of its mineral part. Based on this, four main types of it are distinguished: loamy, clayey, sandy and silty.

loamy soils They are considered the best soils as most plants grow well in them. In the composition of loamy soils, an equal ratio of sand, silt and clay, which is considered an ideal ratio. These soils are brown in color and crumbly to the touch. Loams are well-drained, they rarely become waterlogged, and at the same time they do not dry out in summer. Easily dug up and processed. Loams are rich in nutrients.

sandy soils With a predominant amount of sand. They are considered rough and too loose. The color is light brown, easily dug up. However, such soils do not retain moisture well, because they have a high air content. Therefore, they require constant abundant watering. At the same time, with an excess of moisture, sandy soils are quickly saturated with water, and puddles form on them, which is also not good. Because of this, the content of nutrients in sandy soils is extremely low, as they are quickly washed out of it. This problem can be partially solved by applying organic fertilizers to sandy soil. Sandy soils quickly warm up in the spring, which makes it possible to carry out early sowing on them.

Clay soils Dense, with a predominance of clay. Sticky to the touch, easy to form into a ball. The nutrient content is quite high, so plants that are suitable for such conditions grow well in clay soils. However, there are a number of problems. In hot summer, clay soils often dry up, and their surface is covered with a cracked crust, which prevents the flow of moisture and air to the roots of plants. During periods that are too wet, clay soils can accumulate excessive moisture and become waterlogged as they become waterlogged. do not pass water well. Such soils are difficult to cultivate. It is possible to improve the quality of clay soils by adding sand and organic fertilizers to them - rotted manure, compost, etc.

Silty soils With a predominance of silt. To the touch fine-grained, silky, very crumbly. When wet, muddy soils cannot be molded into a ball, but a sausage can be rolled up. Silty soils can accumulate moisture well, but do not become waterlogged. The air content in such soils is higher than in clay soils, but less than in sandy ones.

Based on the percentage of substances, there may be options - sandy loam, sandy loam, silty loam, etc.

It happens that the soil contains a large amount of other mineral impurities. Based on this, two additional types of soil are distinguished: peat and calcareous.

Differ in high acidity, but are suitable for cultivation of the majority of cultures. Plants grow well in peat soils if they adapt to acidic conditions. The color is almost black, easily dug up, spongy to the touch. Water in peat soil does not accumulate and they often remain dry in summer. Therefore, regular watering and mulching is necessary.

They are less common than others. Fine soil with pieces of white limestone or flint. Water retention is extremely poor, so they require plentiful regular watering. In processing it is not convenient due to the presence of hard limestone stones. Lime soils are always alkaline, so the list of plants that can grow on them is limited.

conclusions

Most crops prefer fertile, well-drained loamy soils. If the land on your site is different, remember that the properties of any soil. Regularly apply the missing substances, organic fertilizers in the right amount, and you will certainly be with the harvest.

To find out what type of soil prevails in your area, it is best to contact the experts. You will be helped to find out not only the type of soil by the content of minerals, but also the presence of useful microelements in it - phosphorus, potassium, magnesium and others.

If this is not possible, then you can independently find out what kind of soil in your garden is sandy, clay or other. More about it.

We hope this information will help you learn more about soil types, which in turn will help you get good yields.

In contact with

There are several types of soils that differ in their content of sand, clay and other elements. Knowing their main characteristics and features, it will be easier for you to organize planting, since you can improve their properties by cultivating the soil and adding the required substances and fertilizers to it.

Characteristic:

1. Clay, characterized by a high level of fertility and, at the same time, difficulties in processing. Such land will retain water, compacting over time. In spring, planting on a site with clay soil should be carried out later than planned, because it heats up and dries out for a long time - because of this, it also needs to be watered often in summer. So that, like other crops, it goes well, it is best to add peat, coarse sand, leaf humus when digging, and lime the earth every three years. If you cultivate the land with high quality, then fruit trees and many garden crops (potatoes) and flowers (highlander and) will develop well and give rich harvests.
2. Sandy, which are easy to process. However, due to the fact that they are available for water, there may be problems when applying fertilizers - they will simply be washed out of the soil. To avoid this, it is necessary to apply nutrients and organics in small doses twice a year: in autumn and spring. On a site where sandy soil prevails, it is best to grow grapes, pears, and strawberries.
3. Loamy, which are best suited for gardening. Among their main characteristics, it is worth noting good moisture capacity, air capacity and ease of processing, so that they do not need to be constantly dug up and improved by fertilizing. Any crop can be grown on such land.
   
4. Peat, characterized by a low content of phosphorus, potassium and calcium. If the treatment is not carried out, trees and bushes, flowers and other crops will develop poorly. Soil properties can be improved by draining and liming.
5. Lime, which quickly warms up and is well processed. True, they are also distinguished by poor moisture absorption, and therefore, with rare watering, your plants will not have enough water. However, crops such as grapes, berry bushes, walnuts, and maples grow well on them.

Breakdown of soils by zones and regions

Zonal soil types is a new concept, it implies the characteristics of the soil depending on the region. Each zone has its own characteristics, which gardeners should also be aware of.

After all, 80% of success in the garden does not depend on fertilizers and plant care, but directly on the quality of the land.

The main areas of our country include:

1. Tundra, which is located along the coast of the Arctic Ocean and occupies a fairly large territory. Unfortunately, it is quite difficult to grow crops on such land, since it is very waterlogged and has a small amount of nutrients. However, here you can grow potatoes and oats.
   
2. Taiga-flattering, located on the territory, which occupies approximately 70% of the entire area of ​​the country. Alas, without the application of mineral and organic fertilizers in such a region, it will not be possible to achieve productivity. The high level of acidity is also not encouraging, due to which the owners of summer cottages will have to make limestone. But if you correctly carry out the processing, you should expect high results when planting vegetables, cereals and perennial grasses.
3. Swamp, which is most often used to create grasslands.
4. Forest-steppe, found in the Omsk, Chelyabinsk, Irkutsk regions. With proper processing and care of plants on the soils located in this zone, you can grow corn, potatoes, and various winter crops. The most important thing is protection against erosion (destruction), for which it is necessary to deepen the arable layer, apply liming and fertilizers.
   
5. Chernozem-steppe - such soils are considered the most fertile, since the land within the boundaries of this zone is distinguished by a large amount of nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus).

As you can see, it is very important to know these types, their location and gardening possibilities. This will allow you to properly till the soil and spend less time caring for the plants.

We determine the fertility of the soil

The main factor in determining the fertility of the soil is the acidity of the soil, which reflects the presence of nutrients in it. Knowing this indicator, you can quickly take measures to improve the characteristics of the soil. So, the acidity level at around 7 pH is considered a normal indicator: fertilizers are quickly absorbed in such soil. To determine the acidity, it is best to use a special indicator or contact a specialist in the laboratory.