Frame houses are especially popular today: they are easy and quick to assemble, do not require a reinforced and expensive foundation, are inexpensive, and therefore accessible to all segments of the population.

Nevertheless, many do not dare to build houses using frame technology, since they consider them not warm enough and intended exclusively for summer living. However, this opinion is wrong, because if you approach the insulation of a panel house wisely, you can feel comfortable in it at any time of the year. "But how to insulate frame house For winter accommodation"- you ask. The answer to all questions related to the process of insulating such buildings will be our article today.

Insulation options

First of all, you need to decide where you will install thermal insulation - outside the building or inside. To make the right decision, you should consider the features of each insulation method.

The following facts speak in favor of the external location of thermal insulation:

In the process, the interior of the house does not suffer at all.

Wooden walls accumulate heat in the room, and when the temperature drops, they release it back into the room, allowing you to save on heating costs.

It should also be noted that the insulating material installed outside the house, in addition to its main function, reliably protects the facade from the harmful effects of moisture, ultraviolet radiation and temperature fluctuations. As a result, the service life of the building increases significantly.

If you are wondering how to insulate the walls of a frame house from the inside, pay attention to several disadvantages of this method:

For the internal one, you will need to dismantle the entire decorative finishing premises, which will have to be restored again after installation of thermal insulation. This leads to an increase in work completion time and additional costs.

With internal insulation, flows of warm and cold air meet inside the wall, which leads to the accumulation of moisture in the room, and as a result, the service life of wooden partitions is significantly reduced.

The insulation layer located inside the building does not protect the facade from external factors. The wall goes through many freeze and thaw cycles, causing its structure to deteriorate.

Selection of insulation material

When wondering how to insulate a frame house for winter living, you should understand that when we're talking about For walls made of wood-based materials, the insulation must have the following qualities:

1. Environmental friendliness. The heat insulator should not release substances hazardous to humans into the air (even when heated).

2. Fire safety. You should choose materials that prevent fire from spreading along the walls of the building and do not emit a lot of smoke in the event of a fire.

3. Low thermal conductivity.

4. Durability. must fit tightly between the walls and retain its original shape over time.

5. Low cost. The price of insulation should not exceed the cost of the building itself.

Expanded polystyrene and mineral wool are considered to be closest to the above requirements.

Expanded polystyrene

The main advantages of polystyrene foam include its low weight, which is very important when it comes to frame structures. The material tolerates well sharp jumps temperatures, is not afraid of moisture and does not freeze.

The durability and low cost of polystyrene foam attract many homeowners, but along with positive qualities This insulation also has disadvantages.

These include:

Rapid flammability;

Susceptibility to mechanical and chemical damage;

Poor air permeability (which creates a thermos effect in the house).

As an alternative, many use an improved type of foam - penoplex, which is resistant to various kinds damage, but has a higher price tag.

Most often, this insulation is installed with outside Houses.

Mineral wool

The most popular material used as thermal insulation in frame houses is considered to be Isover mineral wool (insulation, the price of which, compared to similar materials, quite low). On sale it is found in the form of rolls, mats and durable slabs.

It is characterized by environmental friendliness, light weight, excellent heat and sound insulation properties, the ability to bend around any irregularities, as well as long service life.

The fire safety of a material depends entirely on its density. Products in the form of slabs do not burn at all.

When choosing this insulation for frame walls, it should be taken into account that after some time the wool can cake and sag, which leads to a violation of the integrity of the heat-insulating layer. It is also necessary to pay due attention to waterproofing, since, when wet, glass wool loses its original properties and becomes a favorable environment for the formation of mold.

Facade insulation

Let's take a closer look at how to insulate a frame house for winter living from the outside.

For these purposes, you can use technology. It involves installing insulation between outer wall And decorative cladding. In this case, the thickness of the thermal insulation layer directly depends on the climatic conditions in the region of residence (20 cm or more).

This method can also be used for internal wall insulation, and lining or plasterboard can be used as finishing.

Technology of insulating external walls with foam plastic

1. The wall is cleaned of dirt and dust, all protrusions are smoothed out. The base is completely treated with a primer, and if cracks are found, they are covered with special adhesives.

2. Next, install vertical hangers. Nylon strings with weights are placed at a distance of 0.5 m from each other in order to identify and eliminate all irregularities (if the walls of the panel house are as smooth as possible, this step can be skipped).

3. Using special glue, the foam boards are fixed to the walls. It is very important that the material fits as tightly as possible to the base.

4. Finishing material is installed on top of the heat-insulating layer.

Insulation of internal walls

Now let’s figure out how to insulate a frame house with mineral wool.

Laying insulation should be started only after the wall has been treated with antiseptic compounds.

Installation of thermal insulation includes the following work:

1. Place a vapor-permeable wall on the walls so that it smooth side“looked” inside the room.

2. Guide rails made of wood or metal are installed on top of the membrane using self-tapping screws. The distance between the slats must correspond to the width of the insulation material.

3. Installation of mineral wool can begin either from the top or from the bottom of the wall. If you use rolled “Isover” (insulation, the price of which varies between 1500-2000 rubles per package), installation should begin from the ceiling. Mineral wool in mats is installed starting from the floor. Fastening is carried out using dowels with a wide head.

4. It is located on top of the insulation. For these purposes, you should choose vapor-permeable products that will contribute to natural ventilation premises. The film is fixed using wooden slats so that it is not too tight and does not sag. Next, the cladding is installed.

Conclusion

Now you know how to insulate a frame house for winter living. To conclude the topic, I would like to draw your attention to the fact that thermal insulation will not make the building suitable for living in the cold season - it is designed to keep warm air indoors. Therefore, if you want your home to be warm and comfortable even in severe frosts, take care of its heating.

Frame houses in our country are treated without much respect. And they are short-lived, and are blown by the winds, and freeze in the winter - what they don’t say about them. In fact, a frame house, built according to all the rules, is one of the most durable and warm. And in terms of speed of construction, simplicity of design and cost, it has no competitors. Another plus is the ability to do all the work yourself.

Inexpensive foundation, a fairly light and durable frame made of timber and boards is assembled quickly and without additional questions. But before you do the insulation frame house(from the inside or the outside?), it is important to understand what is happening in the construction of the frame wall pie.

Moisture vapor passes through the walls and, meeting cold air, turns into water. We don’t need water either on the walls (they will rot) or inside the thermal insulation (it stops “working”). Therefore, the main rule of insulation is that the vapor permeability of the insulation cake should increase from the inside to the outside.

Now let’s look specifically at the insulation of a frame house. It doesn’t matter whether you start placing all the “ingredients” from the inside or the outside. The main thing is to follow the correct sequence.

Insulation with mineral wool and other modern materials.

OSB boards or slabs (the most popular material today) are attached to the frame posts on the inside. Then mineral wool slabs are tightly inserted between the frame posts. It is recommended to lay several layers, overlapping the joints of the previous ones.

Also, instead of mineral wool (some varieties of which tend to shrink in size over time), it is recommended to use other modern environmentally friendly insulation materials in the form of tiled basalt blocks like Rockwoll light batts.

The completely filled frame is covered with a membrane film. It serves to protect the thermal insulation from external mechanical influence (wind) and from moisture from the outside. Fasten it with a regular stapler.

An additional row of bars is stuffed on top of the film and the material is already attached to them. exterior finishing.

The inside of the OSB board is covered with plasterboard and wallpaper is glued.

Foam insulation

Polystyrene foam is not a very good option for insulating a frame house. He's not breathing. There is only one way for moisture to escape from the room - through wooden structures. Naturally, they begin to rot if no action is taken.

This is done as follows: under the OSB boards on the frame posts, a vapor barrier material is attached with foil inside the room. The joints of the vapor barrier are sealed with tape, negating the penetration of moisture into the walls of the house.

Next, the frame is filled with polystyrene foam, sealing the seams with foam. In this case, a membrane film is not needed. Further finishing of the wall is at the request of the owner. Polystyrene foam can be plastered, finished with siding or other materials.

This method of insulation requires good ventilation. Essentially, we turned the room into a thermos.

IN Lately The method of insulation with polyurethane foam is becoming increasingly widespread. But this method is not for those who like to do everything themselves.

dacha-service.ru

Insulation of a frame house from the inside: technologies and materials (photo, video)

In order for a house built using frame technology to become a full-fledged dwelling, and not a utility shed, it is necessary to insulate the enclosing structures. Thanks to the peculiarities of construction, all work is quite easy to do with your own hands, without the help of assistants.

Materials and principles of work execution

Insulation of a frame house from the inside

Currently, the problem is rather not where to get it, but what to use for insulation. Range of materials

very wide and varied:

The use of fiber insulation should be done in conjunction with steam and hydro- or wind insulation. Otherwise, moisture quickly condenses and accumulates between the fibers, creating favorable conditions for destruction. wooden frame.

Foam plastics, due to their structure, do not have this disadvantage. They consist of many closed capsule cells filled with air and practically do not absorb water. Foam insulation can be used on its own without the use of auxiliary protective layers.

When carrying out work, you should remember that there is no universal material. In various designs various brands insulation will work differently. Not only thermal parameters will play a role, but also the structure, density and form of thermal insulation (roll, elastic mat or rigid sheet).

Floor insulation

Floor installation example

In a wooden frame house you can find two insulated floor designs, fundamentally

different from each other:

• floor on the ground;
• floor with joists.

In the first case, rigid extruded polystyrene foam is used as a thermal insulation material. The use of foam plastics is undesirable, since their structure is less durable. When choosing sheet material, preference should be given to sheets not with flat edges, but with folds along the perimeter.

After the backfill layers of sand and fine gravel have been completed, interrupting the capillary rise of moisture, a rough screed is placed on top of them. To prevent the cement mortar from going deep into the crushed stone layer, a dense layer of concrete is first laid on its surface. polyethylene film.

After the surface of the screed has hardened, it is rolled out roll waterproofing with overlapping and sealing of seams. Expanded polystyrene sheets are laid on the waterproofing and filled with finishing screed. On finishing screed You can now lay the base or install the floor covering directly.

The design of the insulated floor along the joists is actually a wall laid horizontally. The insulating floor pie looks like this:

• subfloor - laid on skull blocks or hemmed from below directly to the joists;
• waterproofing layer - you can use roofing felt or glassine;
• thermal insulation - placed in space between the joists;
• layer of vapor barrier film. An alternative to specialized vapor barrier can be foil foamed polyethylene, which, in addition to vapor barrier properties, provides additional protection against heat loss by reflecting radiant heat into the room;
• counter-lattice – provides ventilation gap between the vapor barrier and the finished floor covering;
• finishing floor

In this case, fibrous materials based on basalt fiber (mineral wool) are best suited as an insulating filler. It is available in the form of rolls or mats. In principle, both forms of release are quite widely applicable. Thermal insulation is located on a horizontal surface and is not subject to shrinkage under the influence of gravity.

Due to their small size, mats are more convenient to work with. However, there is a need to tightly join their joints and perform joint spacing when laying in two or three layers. The rolled material does not have this drawback and, when laid, produces a solid monolithic layer.

Wall insulation

The process of insulating walls is usually carried out from inside the room. At this point, hydro-wind insulation and external decorative cladding have already been installed on top of the frame from the outside.

Mineral wool is placed in mats between the vertical posts of the frame. Fixation is carried out due to the internal elasticity of the material. The distance between the posts should be 1-2 cm less than the dimensions of the mat.

Wall insulation

In principle, foam plastics can also be used. But achieving complete filling of the inter-rack space with rigid sheets will be quite problematic. You will have to use polyurethane foam as a filler for the inevitable cracks and voids. The only clear advantage in this case will appear due to the elimination of the need to use an internal vapor barrier.

When using mineral wool, the use of a vapor barrier is mandatory. Specialized membranes are best suited for this purpose - the smooth side should be facing the mineral wool.

An air gap must be provided between the vapor barrier and the finished inner lining. It performs the function of ventilation and removes moisture from the structure. Structurally ventilation duct formed by installing sheathing bars. The final interior decoration of the room is subsequently attached to these bars.

Insulation of interfloor ceilings

The peculiarity of interfloor ceilings in a wooden frame house is that the floor on the second floor is also the ceiling of the first. The technology for performing the work in this case is the same as when carrying out floor insulation along joists. The difference will be in replacing the bottom waterproofing layer with a vapor barrier.

Insulation of interfloor ceilings

The final finishing of the first floor ceiling will be hemmed from below to the floor beams. Thermal insulation is installed inside the structure from above (from the second floor).

The process of insulating a frame house allows you to use various materials, and technology to obtain the desired result. When doing work with your own hands, the final choice always remains with the owner of the house, and this must be approached quite carefully and carefully so that later you do not have to redo a large amount of work done.

uteplenievdome.ru

Do-it-yourself insulation of a frame house

Frame construction is becoming more and more popular. This is due to the low costs of constructing buildings, ease of installation, and short construction times. In this article we will tell you how to properly insulate a frame house with your own hands.

First of all, it should be noted that the insulation of a frame house occurs even at the stage of its construction in the process of laying out the space between the frame racks with a certain type of material.

Choosing the type of insulation for a frame house

After the construction of the house, additional insulation of the house can be carried out both in the outer part (insulation of facades) and from the inside. There are a variety of ways to insulate houses. Almost all existing insulation materials are also suitable for insulating frame structures erected for subsequent living. They usually differ in breathability, environmental friendliness and, of course, price.

As a rule, problems with insulating a frame house do not arise, because upon completion of construction we have even and smooth walls without unnecessary protrusions. Sheathing such walls with insulation is a pleasure.

We insulate the facades of the house

The insulation of a frame house from the outside is carried out using well-known materials - mineral and ecowool, polystyrene foam (polystyrene) and OSB boards. Everyone chooses according to their own pocket, of course health is more expensive, so it is recommended to use environmentally friendly insulation. If you want to understand the types of insulation and choose insulation for your home, watch the video.

Types of insulation - video

Successfully executed insulation will increase energy savings and ensure comfortable living.

Each of these materials has its own advantages, as well as weak sides. You can find out about them in the sections of our website dedicated to these insulation materials.

Waterproofing insulation of a frame house

Here, stopping at general issues insulation of a frame house, we only note that the technology of insulating a frame house with any of the listed materials requires good waterproofing.

In addition, you should seal all the connections in the walls that sometimes appear during frame construction. You can seal the cracks using polyurethane foam.

Insulating a frame house with mineral wool is the most popular option. And also, despite the low noise insulation and flammability of this material, the option of insulating a frame house with polystyrene foam is often chosen. But be careful about the environmental friendliness of these materials. Mineral wool can cause serious damage to your lungs if it leaves gaps in your home and allows air to blow in, and polystyrene foam releases harmful benzene when exposed to sunlight.

How to insulate a frame house from the outside and inside?

Waterproofing material. It is attached to the frame of the house using construction stapler(this is the most convenient option). Important! Monitor the integrity of the waterproofing sheet. Damage even in the form of small cuts or punctures is unacceptable. Attach the individual parts with a slight overlap.

Lathing. It is necessary if it is decided to make the insulation of a frame house from the outside from mineral wool. Foam plastic, penoplex, etc. – hard and durable materials. They are glued directly to the wall; there is no need for lathing for their installation.

Insulation. Placed on top of the waterproofing layer. Work technology in accordance with the selected type of insulation.

Vapor barrier. Necessary if mineral wool was used for insulation, because it, as we will discuss, is highly hygroscopic and, absorbing moisture, loses its heat-saving properties.

Facing. A very important stage! Almost all types of insulation require high-quality and reliable cladding, which will protect the material from destruction under the influence of atmospheric conditions. It will also ensure the environmental safety of their use.

Insulation of the floor of a frame house

The insulation materials already stated above - mineral wool and polystyrene foam (and its derivatives) - are also suitable for insulating the floor of a frame structure. Expanded clay and gypsum fiber boards can also be used.

Most a good option is a double sex technology. Those. one in which a rough and finished floor is installed, separated air gap. Such a floor will meet all the requirements for floors in a frame house: heat retention, sufficient strength, water resistance and safety.

How to make floor insulation with your own hands

1. Waterproofing. Important! The waterproofing layer must extend onto the wall slab of the frame.
2. Frame (joists and floor base).
3. Insulation + vapor barrier.
4. Finish floor + interior floor finishing (in accordance with the designer's plan).

Insulation of a frame house, made in accordance with technology, will provide you reliable protection even from severe frosts. Warmth and comfort to you in your home!

domsdelat.ru

Insulation of a frame house: walls, floor and ceiling

Insulation of any frame house is a necessary measure when building such housing.

Frame houses are deservedly very popular in our latitudes: they are convenient for living and do not require complex assembly and a massive foundation, are inexpensive, and therefore accessible to many people.

But there is an opinion that such a home is not suitable for winter period, therefore the house is considered a good option only for a summer residence.

However, this statement is only partly true.

If you know how to insulate a building from the outside and inside, then you can use a frame house for living at any time of the year.

In a frame house, any convenient materials are used for the foundation (most often it is concrete pouring), and certain requirements are put forward for the walls.

However, it also happens that it is necessary to insulate the floor in a frame house on stilts - the technology of work in this case will have its own nuances.

At its core, the dwelling has a simple structure: vertical lintels that are connected by horizontal piles or reinforcement.

The resulting cells are filled with insulation, and the outside and inside of the house are finished. The entire wall structure with insulation is called a “pie”.

Of course, the insulating material plays a key role here: it allows you to better retain heat in the house, protects against moisture and drafts, and performs soundproofing functions.

To prevent the cake from getting wet (for example, from rain), you can use special films. The most important requirement is the correct installation of the insulation, and then the cake will perform its functions correctly and for a long time.

How to reliably insulate a frame house? Insulating a frame house from the inside is a whole system of actions. The design is primarily based on the choice of material.

They use both natural and synthetic materials for insulation.

In the first case, the frame building is insulated with peat, sawdust (wood shavings, tyrsa), straw slabs or ash.

The technology of insulation with natural insulation is such that it is quite difficult to organize the installation process with your own hands - when working with sawdust, peat or other materials, dirt and many unpleasant moments cannot be avoided.

Imagine how the insulation of a house with ash will proceed - both the floor and the walls of the house will inevitably be covered with black dust.

If you choose straw, it is extremely difficult to immediately understand what quality it is - as a result, there may always be straw in the house. bad smell.

Synthetic materials are not much more expensive, but they do not have such obvious disadvantages as working with sawdust, they are easy to install, and most importantly, they provide high insulation and durability.

Frame dwellings are insulated with mineral wool, polystyrene foam, and polyurethane foam.

How to properly insulate walls and ceilings

How to insulate the floor in a frame house correctly? The most successful is considered to be the insulation of a frame house with polystyrene foam. The opinion of many experts confirms that such material is absolutely safe, it is easy to install with your own hands, and during work you will not have to deal with a large amount of debris, as, for example, when working with sawdust.

It is also better to choose polystyrene foam for a frame house because it does not rot, it does not need to be changed for a very long time, and it is vapor-proof (all these advantages are not available when working with sawdust).

In order for the insulation of the walls and ceiling of a frame house to be fully justified, you need to choose the right foam sheet.

We choose its thickness depending on the purpose (we plan to insulate walls or ceilings, a private house or a winter country building), it varies from three to ten centimeters. The denser the material, the better its insulating properties for a frame house.

Remember also that if the foam is too thin, it will easily crumble.

First of all, the installation technology outside the house requires careful preparation walls This stage should not be ignored under any circumstances.

If inside the frame structure there is construction garbage, then we must delete it.

External cladding should not have protruding nails, splinters or corners - they can damage the foam and the insulation from the outside will be inadequate.

To avoid drafts in the house, cracks are filled with polyurethane foam. Inspect the frame for damp spots - there should not be any.

If you do the insulation yourself, then the cake can be dried using a regular hair dryer in a matter of minutes.

Step-by-step instruction Insulating a home with synthetic material (foam or polyurethane foam) is quite simple.

First, we install slabs of insulating material between the frame structures. To ensure the correct dimensions, you can cut to size.

It is done with your own hands using a sharp knife. It is important not to miss a single crack, from the foundation to the ceiling.

External insulation means that the sheets will be secured using special dowels.

If installation is needed from the inside, then in order not to shift the dew point to outer skin, you also need to install a vapor barrier membrane.

After all the dowels are secured and the mounting foam has dried (this takes several hours), you can cover the walls with acrylic-based plaster.

A small layer of coating with a homogeneous mass is applied to the entire surface, after which it is mounted reinforced mesh.

We wait until it hardens (at least a day), after which we re-coat it with plaster or paint.

Such step by step diagram work will help even a non-professional to insulate a winter building quickly and without special effort.

We insulate a panel frame house

What should the owners of a panel frame house do? After all, the pie in it is different in design from the usual one.

It also has its own step-by-step installation instructions and a clear action plan suitable for insulating a panel frame house even with your own hands.

For a panel house, insulation is only necessary if you live in the winter.

Since the thickness of the panel housing frame is twice as thick as usual, it is not possible to insulate the entire area, but individual elements.

It is best to calculate the thickness of the insulating layer during the construction of a panel house, because installation will be carried out directly into the walls.

For additional protection of the panel house, air-tight membranes are also installed in the pie. When starting insulation, all joints and cracks should be treated with mastic or polyurethane foam.

First, special profiles are attached to the frames using dowels. After this, they are treated both outside and inside with clapboard.

In this case, the outside of the house should be damp, and the inside should be dry.

Not only the walls, but also the floor require special attention in panel frame houses. Therefore, if you are not sure of the strength of the foundation, the floor can be additionally covered with foam insulation.

After insulation has been carried out outside and inside the house, and work has been done to insulate the foundation (floor), the facade can be sheathed with panels or covered with plaster.

The step-by-step instructions for this process are not much different from those described above.

Insulation with polyurethane foam

Insulation with polyurethane foam is becoming increasingly popular because it is suitable not only for external use in frame houses, but also from inside the home: on stilts, for ceilings, floors, and walls.

This material is universal: it forms a reliable cake and helps to strengthen the thermal insulation of the foundation. Compared to sawdust insulation, this option has many advantages.

Spraying polyurethane foam is used for insulation. The technology is quite simple, but requires additional equipment.

That is, you won’t be able to do everything completely with your own hands - you’ll have to call professionals with spraying equipment.

However, insulation with polyurethane foam for a frame house has a number of advantages - such material will serve you for a long time, it can withstand any temperature changes.

Spraying polyurethane foam will save metal carcass from corrosion.

Insulating the walls of a frame house with such spraying eliminates rotting or the possibility of insects or rodents infesting the walls (which is sometimes observed when insulating with sawdust).

In addition, the installation technology is carried out in such a way that you do not have to use additional foam with your own hands, so that the cake or floor is protected from drafts - the material penetrates tightly into all the cracks.

On average, covering a large frame house, even on stilts (where special care is required if the floor is too thin), takes a couple of hours.

We insulate floors and ceilings

Insulating the floor and ceiling when working with your own hands is as important a process as laying material in the walls. The thickness of the insulation layer depends on the thickness of the foundation.

Instructions correct installation dictates the need to choose a fairly impressive coating thickness.

The technology for insulating the inside of a house starts from the ceiling. The insulation cake is laid from the attic side.

The vapor barrier layer is securely attached using a stapler or glue to the beams and the entire area of ​​the attic.

After that we put mineral wool or polystyrene foam. It is better not to experiment with sawdust, because, as mentioned above, they are not a good material. The joints here are processed in the same way as on the walls.

And already in last resort In a frame house, waterproofing is installed, and on the sides there is a protective row of boards.

When insulating the foundation and ceiling, you must not forget about ventilation. Its installation in a frame house is done after insulation, but the holes for it are made in advance and are not covered with material.

The size depends on the pipes, usually their diameter is no more than ten centimeters.

In order to prevent the cold from the foundation from penetrating into the frame house in winter, we should think carefully about the choice of material for the floor and its thickness.

Instructions for successful insulation most often involve choosing polystyrene foam, because it is affordable and retains heat well.

However, remember that the laying pattern of polystyrene foam is such that it is better to lay it only on top of the vapor barrier material.

You should not neglect the ventilation of the equipment, otherwise the floor will begin to rot.

If the technology for insulating the walls of a frame house is not complicated, then you will have to tinker with the floor.

To install insulation, everything floor coverings will have to be removed, starting from the linoleum and ending with the bottom boards.

If heating is provided in the floor design of a frame house, then it is better to install it under a layer of insulating material (you can choose either synthetic or natural insulation, but when working, for example, with sawdust, there will be more trouble).

The insulation itself occurs similarly to the procedures with walls and ceilings. Choose mineral wool or polystyrene foam for this.

It is better to give preference to slabs of the material rather than rolls - they are more durable and will last longer. Installation takes place using glue or dowels.

After all the actions, the boards and linoleum are put back into place.

How to insulate the ceiling of the top floor of a brick house

To achieve comfortable living in a house during the winter, you need to think about insulation at the construction stage. This will prevent cold air from entering the room and ensure compliance with temperature and humidity conditions. You can do the insulation of a frame house yourself. Step-by-step instructions for each type of structure are given below.

Why is it necessary to insulate a house?

Using thermal protection of structures in contact with cold air, the following problems can be solved:

• condensation from inside the premises;
• the appearance of dampness, mold and mildew;
• increased heating costs;
• non-compliance with the temperature regime of the living space and a decrease in the comfort of living in it.

In addition, competent technology for insulating a frame house can extend the service life of the main structures of the building.

Materials for thermal protection

House insulation can be carried out using the following materials:

• mineral wool;
• extruded polystyrene foam;

Types of mineral wool

There are two classifications of this insulation. The first is based on the raw materials used for manufacturing:

• basalt;
• glass;
• slag.

The most popular is the insulation of the walls of a frame house and other structures with basalt mineral wool.

The second classification is based on the form of insulation:

• rigid slabs;
• roll material.

It is worth noting that glass wool is only available in rolls.

For floors, rigid slabs that can withstand fairly high loads are suitable. Insulation of the walls of a frame house can be carried out using both slabs and rolls. For attic roofing, it is best to use slab material. This will allow you to easily install mineral wool insulation between the rafters.

Insulated frame house structures

Before insulating a frame house, you need to decide which structures require this additional measure.

You can protect the following building elements from the cold with your own hands:

1. first floor floor;
2. attic floor (if the attic is cold);
3. attic roof;
4. exterior walls.

Do-it-yourself insulation work can be done both outside and inside. It is best to install thermal insulation between the racks, as this will ensure proper operation of the material. Insulation wooden house applying mineral wool from the inside of the wall will greatly simplify the work and allow events to be carried out in any weather conditions.

Double-layer insulation – guarantee of 100% thermal protection

An insulation scheme from the outside is possible if the insulation from the inside is not sufficient and additional insulation is required. Peculiarities:

• external thermal insulation material should not create a barrier to steam. Otherwise, the resulting condensate from water vapor will accumulate between two layers of insulation, which is fraught with the formation of mold and mildew;
• thickening the house wall

Based on all of the above, it follows that thermal protection of a wooden house from the outside with mineral wool should be carried out only in exceptional cases when the scheme from the inside is not applicable.

Wall insulation

Double-layer insulation (double frame)

To guarantee a comfortable stay during the winter period, it is important to take care of the thermal protection of the walls. To reliably insulate walls with basalt or other wool from the outside with your own hands, you need two-layer insulation. Adhere to the following layer order:

1. interior decoration;
2. vapor barrier;
3. insulation with mineral wool (2 layers with offset racks);
4. windproof membrane;
5. OSB-3 for sheathing;
6. external finishing of the facade.

It is important to remember that the scheme for using this type of insulation requires the presence of a ventilated layer with a thickness of at least 4 cm. This is necessary due to the high hygroscopicity of the material. So that the insulation retains its performance characteristics, it is necessary to remove excess moisture from its surface. This is ensured by the circulation of cold air outside the surface of the mineral wool.

Most often, the technology for insulating the walls of a frame house is the following scheme: the material is not laid on any side, but between the frame posts. This allows you to reduce the overall thickness of the wall and significantly reduce the construction time of the building. Mineral wool is fixed between the frame posts, after which sheathing is done on both sides.

When carrying out DIY work, vapor barrier and wind protection are positioned similarly to the previous cases: steam protection is on the inside, and wind protection is on the outside.

When thermally protecting walls from the inside under a curtain wall, the order of layers is as follows:

1. interior decoration;
2. vapor barrier;
3. mineral wool;
4. superdiffusion membrane;
5. wall design;
6. façade finishing.

Insulation of floors

A wooden frame house is characterized by ceiling beams. When arranging thermal insulation with your own hands, insulation boards are laid between the load-bearing structures of the floor. You can also use rolled materials, but spreading them will require preliminary installation of the bottom sheathing or continuous flooring.

When insulating with mineral wool in the form of rigid slabs, the step wooden beams It is better to take the ceilings so that there is a clear gap of 580 mm between them. This will ensure maximum ease of working with 600 mm wide slabs and complete filling of the space with heat-insulating material.

When doing things with your own hands, you need to remember that the vapor barrier is located from the inside of the room, and the waterproofing is on the cold air side. In the case of interfloor ceilings, protection from steam should be provided from the ceiling.

Insulation attic floor

It is also important to remember that when working with any type of mineral wool, it is better to prevent particles of the material from getting on your skin and into your lungs. For this, it is best to use gloves and a mask. Workers must also have special clothing that completely covers their arms and legs.

Insulation of pitched roofs

The DIY installation technology is similar to ceilings. The pitch of the rafters, as in the previous case, is selected to maintain a clear distance of 580 mm.

The work is performed in the following order:

1. installation of the rafter system;
2. laying a waterproofing layer on top of the rafters;
3. thermal insulation;
4. installation of vapor barrier;
5. top and bottom sheathing;
6. laying roofing material;
7. interior ceiling decoration.

Preparatory work

Before properly insulating a frame house, it is necessary to prepare the surfaces. To do this, follow simple steps:

1. treating all wooden house structures with antiseptic compounds to prevent damage by various microorganisms;
2. cleaning the surface from dirt and dust;
3. elimination of significant irregularities.

These simple do-it-yourself manipulations will ensure that the insulation securely adheres to the structures and lasts as long as possible. long term services.

Frame houses are being built very, very actively. But even such reliable and high-quality structures in the Russian climate cannot do without insulation. And this means that from the choice correct option A quiet life in the house depends on him and his ability to work properly.

Why is it necessary?

Panel buildings are very popular among summer residents: they are attracted by the opportunity, having started work in late autumn, to have a full-fledged house by the beginning of the season. In this case, such buildings:

• environmentally friendly;
• are inexpensive;
• serve for many decades.

But all these advantages are realized only if the insulation of the frame house is done properly.

Otherwise, it will be quite difficult to call it comfortable. It is worth immediately distinguishing between two types of buildings.

• Buildings for permanent use by default must have solid thermal protection.
• If you plan to be there only from late spring to late autumn, thermal insulation should be minimal - strictly to maintain the stability of the structure itself.

The “frame”, intended for the summer period, has a wall thickness of no more than 70 mm. During the cold season, the required figure is at least twice as high. If you limit yourself to a thinner layer of material, the heat leakage will be disproportionately large, and you will either have to freeze or lose a lot of money on heating.

Important: for winter living you will have to insulate not the entire volume of the frame, but only its individual parts, first of all:

• stingrays;
• basements;
• attic planes;
• basement structures.

It will not be possible to get by with a heated floor alone, even if its power is excessive. Through basements, external walls and other parts of the panel house structure, heat will flow away just as vigorously. Considering the variety of conditions where insulation will be installed, it is impossible to give a universal answer about the best option. Basement walls are equipped with some types of thermal protection, load-bearing walls with others, and cold attic ceilings with others. But in any case, the choice of suitable insulation formats always comes first.

Types of thermal insulation

Cross (additional) insulation of frame structures is carried out, as its name suggests, by adding an auxiliary volume of insulation to one layer. This solution allows you to reliably close existing cold bridges. Most builders prefer the external location of insulation- because it does not take away the precious internal space, which is always in short supply in dachas and rural homes. In addition to thermal protection of the facade plane, special attention should be paid to preventing heat from escaping through the corners.

They are the most problematic points in any home; Now you can find out which solutions to all these problems should be preferred.

What should you use to insulate?

Insulation for a frame house cannot be bulk; standard technology involves the use of only tiles or rolls. The difference is not only that “one is put down, the other is unwound.” Technologists are aware of the differences in nominal thickness. Typically, increasing the layer thickness increases the energy efficiency of the material.

But it is worth remembering that even a material that is impeccable in itself can be used incorrectly, and this immediately devalues ​​all the advantages. Therefore, it is better to either turn to professionals, or study the slightest subtleties and nuances of each coating.

The vast majority of amateur builders and official firms use the “brilliant four”:

• mineral wool;
• expanded polystyrene;
• mineral slabs;
• isolon.

There are many other options, the main division of which is carried out by chemical nature (organic or inorganic substances in the base) or by structure - solid blocks and bulk substances. You can even choose expanded clay, metallurgical slag and other bulk reagents. But the problem with this solution is the gradual shrinkage of the thermal protection layer. You will have to thoroughly compact the layer being laid, and not just fill the entire volume of the wall, floor, and so on with the selected composition. Slab materials do not cause such problems - but they also have their pitfalls.

So, using mineral wool in its pure form for external insulation of walls is pointless: it will not hold up well and will retain its thermal properties only until the first rain or snow. A prerequisite for success is attachment to a special structure of bars packed vertically. Each beam is placed only where the border between the mineral wool slabs passes. You should also take care of external protection from getting wet.

When working, it is important to wear respiratory protection, wear special glasses and not take off gloves.

Polystyrene foam is an organic substance. Its undoubted advantages are:

• low specific gravity;
• protecting walls from strong winds;
• exclusion of rotting.

But these advantages also have a downside: high fire risks. Therefore, it is impossible to decorate walls with foam plastic that has not undergone special treatment.

Mineral wool is absolutely not prone to ignition. A similar advantage can be obtained by using basalt wool, but it also has a significant advantage - ease of processing and perfect safety for builders.

Many people call the use of penoizol the ideal solution.

But it also has weak points - after a few years, areas will form where the material will not fit tightly. Therefore, heat loss will increase sharply. The liquid version of the coating has more powerful adhesion and lasts 50–60 years (a guarantee is provided for this period). The disadvantage, however, is also obvious - without special equipment it will not be possible to achieve success. But penoizol is in any case acceptable for retaining heat in the floor, roof and walls.

Internal insulation of walls of frame buildings using rolled materials is impossible. More precisely, it will be possible to attach them to the walls, but then the walls themselves will shrink, and the thermal insulation will inevitably be damaged. Regardless of the option chosen, and whether the work is done inside or outside the house, it must be carried out very carefully. It is useful to remember this whenever the thought arises of saving money by working on your own. If among all the materials the choice fell on penoizol, its installation is preceded by the installation of profiles.

Frame structures are rarely insulated with expanded clay, and even its low cost does not justify this choice. Yes, the material is very dense and does not absorb water well. But if it has already absorbed liquid, its return will be very slow. Expanded clay is very heavy, and even with a minimum density in dry form, it puts pressure on the walls and foundation very strongly. This circumstance will have to be taken into account when exterior decoration, choosing the most durable solutions for it.

But the main thing is not even this, but the fact that expanded clay is three times worse in thermal qualities than mineral wool and polystyrene foam. Therefore, you will definitely have to use layers of waterproofing and vapor barrier. Insulation with stone wool also competes strongly with this material. Working with her slabs is a pleasure; there is no need for complex instruments. Cutting into the required fragments is done with a knife or saw with fine teeth.

Please note: stone wool blocks should not be compressed, tamped or squeezed. This will definitely lead to negative consequences. You also need to use ecowool wisely. So, in its pure form, ecological wool is very flammable, but if you mix it with brown and boric acid, the level of fire hazard will sharply decrease. In addition, such processing will avoid interest from microscopic organisms and certain animal species.

Near the surface, ecowool can contain up to 20% water (by weight) and retain its basic insulating properties.

When the material dries, it fully restores functionality. People will also find such advantages as an optimal microclimate, suppression of extraneous sounds, absence of seams and sanitary safety to be attractive. Concerning possible problems, they are:

• you will have to limit yourself to vertical backfilling in order to guarantee thermal protection;
• You will definitely need specialized equipment;
• if the fastening control was poor, the material may settle;
• Ecowool is not very appropriate where high humidity may be present.

Insulation frame houses sawdust is another traditional, even centuries-old technology. But there is no reason to consider it exclusively primitive, as is often done modern people. Careful consideration of the characteristics of the material allows it to be realized profitably positive features and weaken the negative ones. The undoubted advantage of sawdust is natural origin, affordable price and decent heat retention. You just need to deal with the risk of fire and the establishment of rodents in the material.

Antiseptic components, lime, clay, gypsum or cement help solve such problems.

Important: when choosing an additive for sawdust, you should pay attention to how hygroscopic it is.

In many places high humidity can lead to very unpleasant consequences. Sawdust of a large fraction is usually used for the rough insulating layer, and heat retention is mainly ensured by a finer substance. When purchasing or preparing yourself, you should pay attention to the dryness of the material; the quality of thermal protection depends on it.

Followers modern materials And latest technologies can insulate frame houses with extruded polystyrene foam. It is quite widely used when working on floors, including:

• over unheated basements and technical undergrounds;
• under attic floors;
• to enhance the acoustic protection of structures separating the floors of the house.

Typically, on the floors of frame houses, polystyrene foam is placed between the joists; at the request of the owners or craftsmen, it can be mounted under a reinforced screed made of cement and sand. The disadvantage of the material (easily eliminated, however, with a careful approach) is the need to strictly observe the specified gaps between the plates. Expanding when heated, polystyrene foam can be damaged - to prevent such a development of events, gaps are needed. It is important to remember that this synthetic substance is flammable and should be used with caution.

It is unacceptable to glue it to mixtures containing any flammable or simply caustic component.

In addition to insulation, it is worth remembering that reliable, well-designed ventilation must be provided in a frame house.

Enter fresh air always organize from utility rooms, and the flow is carried out under the doors separating the rooms. If you do not take care of the presence of a gap under them, then not only freshness, but also uniform distribution of heat in the home will not be achieved. When it is not possible to form such a gap, the following come to the rescue:

• special channels for flow;
• bars across the wall;
• separate channels for the passage of air into a specific room.

Specifications

The more monolithic the insulation layer, the more stable it usually retains heat. Because It is worth paying primary attention to the density of the structure, it is much more important than a big name or whole line certificates. The only one especially lightweight material, worthy of attention is polystyrene foam (including its modification such as polystyrene foam). Even mineral wool belongs to the simply light category, although its specific gravity can vary widely. It is this circumstance that allows you to choose the optimal solution for a wide variety of conditions and situations.

If you want maximum cold blocking (in living rooms and on the floor), you need to use the thickest versions. For a non-residential attic, the requirements are lower. With a density of 75 kg per 1 cubic meter. m. cotton insulation is suitable only on surfaces that carry a relatively light load, as well as for thermal protection of pipes.

Brand P-125 is already more worthy; it can be used in different procedures:

• covering ceilings and floors;
• thermal insulation of walls;
• thermal protection of partitions;
• suppression of external noise.

Cotton wool of category PZh-175 has increased rigidity and is not used in frame houses, to a greater extent it is used in stone and concrete buildings. If you plan to cover the walls with siding, you can use basalt wool with a density of 40 to 90 kg per 1 cubic meter. m. Moreover, the densest material is recommended to be used in upper parts walls For plaster, experts advise using cotton wool with a specific gravity of 140–160 kg per 1 cubic meter. m. The requirements for insulation used in the interior of a frame house are less stringent.

When the home is covered with a pitched roof, the optimal parameters are 30–45 kg per 1 cubic meter. m, and if you plan to insulate the attic, the lower bar is already 35 kg.

Five times higher than the minimum value for mineral wool under flat roof, and for polystyrene foam it is much more gentle, only 40 kg per 1 cubic meter. m maximum. In floors, loose insulation can only be used when laying between joists. Otherwise, the thermal protection will be a mechanically loaded element, which will negatively affect its characteristics.

Residents of frame houses naturally strive to ensure that their habitats are not only warm, but also environmentally friendly; errors in the selection of insulation can prevent the achievement of this goal. Until recently, it was possible to find an environmentally friendly method of thermal protection only in elite areas, but now such schemes have become much more accessible. Quite predictably, natural fibers take first place:

• woody;
• linen;
• hemp and some others.

The advantage of such substances is the zero degree of allergic and toxicological risk. The softness of the structure makes it difficult for individual components to penetrate into the external space. There is absolutely no place for mineral and glass wool in an environmentally friendly home. Insignificant shards of glass and stone fibers cannot be seen without magnifying glass. But they can cause significant harm to health.

Important: no matter how great the desire for cleanliness and health protection, this is not a reason to refuse antiseptic treatment of a number of materials – where it is really needed.

Fire retardants are most often made from borax, a natural mineral that is completely safe. The vast majority of thermal protection components, however, do not pose a danger only under strictly specified conditions. One of them is always maintaining the integrity of the insulating “pie”, from which one or another substance cannot normally escape. Linen insulation is relatively cheap and at the same time quite normal, based on data obtained from medical studies in different countries.

Peat blocks are now becoming increasingly in demand in frame construction. 1 cu. m of such material costs approximately 3 thousand rubles, and it will last for 75 years, all this time being a sharply unfavorable place for microbes. What is important in our troubled era, such insulation can reduce the entry of penetrating radiation into the house by 80%. The only problem is that there is still little operating experience, and it is unclear how peat blocks will behave in different conditions after many years.

Cork structures are easily placed under wallpaper, on interior walls and under the floor; but due to the very high price, it is unlikely that many people will be able to appreciate their quality in the foreseeable future.

Review of manufacturers

Reviews allow you to appreciate not only different kinds insulation materials, but also the professionalism and integrity of individual companies.

Attention: you need to take into account that we will only talk about the truly best of the best companies that have shown all their capabilities over the years of competition.

Firm "Rockwall" supplies the market with fireproof thermal insulation made from stone wool. It places emphasis on ensuring the highest environmental and sanitary performance of its products. You can use this mineral wool as part of thermal protection:

• pipes;
• facade walls;
• room partitions;
• roofing structures;
• areas experiencing intense loads.

100 mm of such a slab is enough to replace almost 2 m of brickwork.

French corporation "Isover" sells glass wool to its consumers in roll, slab or matte configurations. Of course, environmental safety is somewhat less, but the cost of the products is noticeably lower and optimal fire-fighting properties are guaranteed. The level of thermal conductivity also corresponds necessary requirements. The company's line includes pressed materials that are easy to install even without the use of fasteners.

Glass wool is also supplied under the brand name URSA, which uses significantly less phenol in production, and in some cases got rid of it altogether. The product range includes:

• slabs of moderate rigidity;
• products adapted for medical and children's organizations;
• hydrophobic structures of increased density;
• products resistant to deforming loads.

Calculations

Regardless of what specific substance is used, the thickness of the insulation must be carefully calculated. If you miscalculate this indicator, you will end up with either an insufficient effect or excessively high costs for purchasing thermal protection and working with it. When the work is entrusted to a professional team, you still need to control the measurements and calculations made by it. As practice shows, installers left without supervision, making sure that no one is checking them, will sooner or later “make a mistake” in their favor.

The main role in the calculations is played by indicators such as thermal conductivity and thermal resistance.

Glass wool has a very high resistance to heat loss - but its disadvantages prevent wide application this material. When making calculations, it is worth focusing on the climatic properties of a certain area. So, in Moscow and its environs the recommended layer of most good insulation materials does not exceed 0.2 m. If you use such a number of them for Far North, the result will be disastrous for the residents.

A standard formula of the form δut = (R – 0.16 – δ1/λ1 – δ2/λ2 – δi/λi) × λut has the following components (sequentially):

• thermal resistance of structures in a specific area;
• total thickness of all layers;
• coefficient of thermal conductivity;
• the ability of insulation to transmit heat.

Raw materials and tools

When the type of insulation has been chosen, the calculations have been made, it’s time to get ready for work properly. You definitely need to choose necessary tools as carefully as possible, taking into account the slightest nuances.

• With a dry insulation option, the “raw material” can be considered, along with the selected thermal protection, timber or metal constructions the created frame. It is also useful to choose decorative materials, waterproofing films, membranes, and vapor barriers that match the material.
• The “wet” scheme is implemented using water-based adhesives.

Typical tools for insulating walls and roofs include:

• screwdriver;
• guns for applying polyurethane foam;
• hammers;
• jigsaws for precise cutting of wood and metal;
• perforator;

• spatulas;
• hydraulic levels;
• roulette;
• metal scissors;
• containers for preparing solutions, and so on.

The exact set cannot be predicted in advance, because it greatly depends on the chosen technology, on the nuances of the frame house and the amount of work. In any case, it is worth trying to purchase high-quality tools and supplies. All devices purchased specifically or already on hand should be carefully checked before starting work. Otherwise, it will not be possible to guarantee the quality and safety of manipulations during insulation. In almost all cases, craftsmen benefit from a square: it is able to both mark precise right angles and measure the actual angles formed by the sides of the part.

Among all the hammers, the machinist's type is best suited.

It is suitable for processing any surfaces. On the one hand, such a tool is smooth and allows you to strike, and on the other, it is pointed, like a chisel. If you have to dismantle building elements and structures, you need a nail puller. You can separate polystyrene foam and other insulating and decorative elements into pieces using fine-tooth saws. The teeth should be specially set and sharpened in a special way.

For the preparation of building mixtures, only mixers with a spiral-shaped working part made of strong steel grades are quite suitable. Using rollers, it is easy to apply primers and a variety of paints, even if the surface is very rough or rough. To apply the adhesive solution for subsequent implementation of the reinforcing mesh, it is recommended to use Swiss ironing tools with teeth. The optimal tooth size is 8 x 8 or 10 x 10 mm, it is determined by the manufacturer of the façade systems.

Self-coverage

In any case, the step-by-step instructions require installing a layer that protects from moisture. The only exception is made for those situations where such protection is already in place outside (or inside). The reason is simple - two-way blocking of water deprives it of outlet. The liquid will accumulate inside the walls and gradually destroy them.

The first step is usually to measure the external surfaces and cut the waterproofing material according to their size.

Next comes work with the vapor barrier. This point cannot be avoided even when hydrophobic or neutral substances that tolerate contact with water are used for insulation. After all, besides them, the “pie” also includes other parts that are much more sensitive to getting wet. When insulating inside and outside, it would be correct to use a special film or foamed polyethylene to contain water vapor. Such materials are attached to the frame racks, ensuring maximum tight pressure against the insulation.

Important: wrapping thermal protection blocks in film is a violation of the standard scheme - until all components of the frame, without exception, are covered from water, the work cannot be considered completed.

Only when all this is finished do they begin to work with the filler itself.

At the same time, safety requirements are strictly observed, especially relevant when choosing mineral or glass wool.

The final step is to cover the walls from the inside. Without competition in terms of the sum of their qualities, there will be drywall and oriented particle boards. It is recommended to install gypsum boards if the frame is perfectly flat, then the outer surface will be smooth. But OSB, thanks to its rigidity, will cope with flaws as efficiently as possible. But in any case, this is only preparation for the real finishing touches.

Master classes from professionals

Master classes organized by professionals allow you to obtain the latest and adequate information on all problems of insulation and related topics. As a result of the consultation, it will become clear what the width should be frame board in a certain case, and how to calculate the thickness of a fundamentally new material.

Experienced craftsmen understand safety measures and the storage and transportation of each insulating coating better than ordinary amateur builders. Many mistakes are made when attaching structures, drawing up diagrams and determining the sequence of layers in the “pie”. But communication with knowledgeable people helps correct this situation.

When mineral wool is used, try to prevent condensation coming from warm rooms from getting on it. But waterproofing and vapor barrier are also fraught with many pitfalls. The choice of material for cladding is often dictated by tradition, personal tastes or stereotypes - but meanwhile, a thoughtful design is much more pleasant. Professionals will tell you when you can use natural insulation, and when it is better to use artificial ones. It is very important to understand the compatibility of materials with each other: master classes again help here.

To find out which insulation retains heat better, see the following video.

Insulation of a frame house- a responsible process, which then determines how much you will pay for heating and whether there will be ventilation in your house, whether you can calmly walk barefoot even in winter and allow children to play on the floor for hours, or whether you will have to buy warm home clothes, socks and slippers.

I will define important concepts needed to understand the text:
Closing the outline of a house- this is the result of that stage of construction when the house is covered with a roof, doors and windows are installed in it, i.e. We are protected from precipitation from the street.
Insulation “by surprise”- this is insulation in which the pieces of insulation are wider than the cavity into which we insert it, which leads to the fact that the insulation supports itself due to natural expansion (we compress it so that it fits into the desired cavity).

Let's look at insulation various elements frame.

Insulation of the floor in a frame house can be carried out in a variety of ways and with various insulation materials. If your house is not built using USP, then this point is definitely relevant for you. I drew this diagram to immediately highlight all types of floor insulation in a frame frame:

Risk of insulating the floor of a frame house until the circuit closes is that during construction, moisture will most likely get into the insulation more than once (rains are not uncommon in Russia, but floors made of plywood or OSB still allow moisture to pass through), which means that the insulation may lose all its insulating properties ( unless, of course, it's foam).

Insulation of the floor of a frame house after closing the circuit is devoid of this risk, but it requires additional movements: either removing the floor already under the roof or climbing under the house and insulating it from there, or building walls without a floor at all and installing the walls of the frame house directly on the logs (not recommended, this is quite dangerous).

As you already understood, the floor of a frame house can also be insulated both from above (while on the floor) and from below (from under the house). Let's look at all the possible options and potential problems.

Option 1. Insulation of the floor of a frame house from above until the contour is closed.


The most traditional option. Immediately after securing in place, we can insulate the floor of a frame house before covering it with plywood.

If our insulation glass wool or mineral wool, then we just need to simply insert the insulation rolls spaced between the joists. The width of the insulation should be 1-2 cm larger than the space between the joists (if the insulation is 600 mm wide, then the joist pitch is 630 mm, and the space between them is 580 mm). If the insulation does not match, then we cut the insulation to the required size.

To simplify this process, you can first hem boards or plywood underneath the joists so that the insulation cannot fall into the subfloor over time. To do this, before installation, either cranial blocks are nailed to the joists from below, onto which the slabs under the floor insulation will be attached (picture 1), or an inch is attached under it, with a pitch of 300-400 mm across the joists (picture 2).

Everything is simpler and more difficult at the same time. It’s easier, because it’s not scary for it to get wet, which means it’s not scary to insulate the floor of a frame house with polystyrene foam until the contour is closed. Harder because it's tough and doesn't stand up to surprise so easy, it needs to be cut into Exact size clearance between the joists (or even place it against one joist immediately during installation and press it with the adjacent joist, then there will be no gaps). True, when the boards dry out (unless, of course, the board was already dry), most likely, gaps will appear between the foam and the joists; it is better to foam this space (you can remove it from the underground later). You also need to hem something underneath the foam plastic (boards, plywood or wind protection).

Option 2. Insulation of the floor of a frame house from below after closing the circuit.

If you have a basement or your house is on, and it is raised from the ground by at least 40 cm, then you can easily insulate the floor from below. To do this, you will need to prepare rolls of insulation, crawl under the house and place the insulation there at random. Then pull it under the insulation in the same way (or slabs supporting the insulation as in option 1). Remember that even if your piles are only 30 cm high above the ground, then adding a grillage to them, you get a distance to the floor joists of 50 cm, and this is already a completely working option for insulation from below.

Option 3. Insulation of the floor in a frame house from above after closing the circuit.


Insulating the floor of a frame house in this way is the most comfortable option, in my opinion. First we put the logs, secure them in their places, put ours on top, securing it TEMPORARILY with 2-4 self-tapping screws to the joists.

After which we put the walls on the plywood (but only load-bearing ones; we don’t put up non-load-bearing partitions at all yet), we put floor joists, rafters, etc. on the walls. until we close the entire circuit walls-roof-doors-windows.
Then we unscrew the screws from the plywood in the floor and cut out the plywood in the places where the load-bearing walls lie on it and insulate everything as in the first option (just don’t forget to add jumpers under the joints of the newly cut places in the plywood).

Order your home

There is another variation. If, before installing the walls, you place under them not solid sheets of plywood, but cut pieces 150 mm wide. In this case, there is no need to make additional jumpers, and there is also no need to cut anything, just unscrew the screws, remove the subfloor and insulate it.

Ecowool and floor insulation in a frame house from above after closing the circuit.
With ecowool everything is the same, only you need to attach a windbreak to the bottom of the joists or sew it up with something, because... ecowool is bulk and it needs a solid base (it also makes sense to use MDVP instead of wind protection in this case). A big plus of ecowool is that with it you won’t need to cut anything in any case, make a step under the subfloor slabs (and of course, under the required load).
At all, ecowool, in my opinion, is the best insulation for a frame house. If you decide to insulate your house with ecowool, contact me, I work with a real professional in insulating walls with ecowool, who travels to various regions.
Personally, for myself, I chose the option with ecowool.

Insulation of walls in a frame house

Insulation of walls in a frame house proceeds in a similar way. We insert the insulation between the . Remember that the pitch of the racks should also be 20-30 mm greater than the width of the insulation. Typically, the pitch of the racks is 625 mm with a 40 mm board and 635 mm with a 50 mm board. By the way, it seems to me that it is better to trim OSB-3 a couple of times than to constantly trim the insulation.

Video about insulation of walls in a frame house from the Rockwool company (manufacturer of insulation of the same name):

What kind of insulation is there for walls?

Types of insulation for walls: mineral wool with a density of more than 30 kg/m3, ecowool (wet method) and polystyrene foam. It is these three modern insulation materials that are used in 95% of the walls of frame houses in Russia. It's difficult to say exactly what better thermal insulation the walls are ecowool or mineral wool or polystyrene foam, since each insulation has its own pros and cons.

Insulation for external walls

Special external insulation for walls it is used if you want to make a plaster facade using insulation. In such cases, you have 2 options: polystyrene foam or mineral wool high density(about 125 kg/m3).

The cheapest and best insulation for walls

We can say for sure that the cheapest insulation for walls is mineral insulation with a minimum density, but it is not recommended to use it, although some take risks and even use glass wool in the walls of a frame house. Over time, low-density basalt can settle in the walls and cracks will appear.

In my opinion, the best insulation for frame walls is. That’s why we insulate the houses of our clients, and we haven’t had any dissatisfied ones in 7 years of work. Ecowool can even withstand fires.
So contact us, we will insulate your walls with ecowool. But we had to throw mineral wool out of the walls more than once because it had become unusable. Of course, it wasn’t her fault, she just didn’t follow the insulation technology, but ecowool forgives even that.

Cross insulation of the walls of a frame house from the outside

Cross-insulation of the walls of a frame house from the inside

Insulate a frame house from the inside invented by the Scandinavians. In fact, it is much more convenient than outside, because... In this option, we are not afraid of precipitation and other weather disasters (in particular, hints from a neighbor). Insulation from the inside It usually also comes in a horizontal lathing 40x50 or 50x50 with a pitch of 400-625 mm, only the lathing goes on top of the plastic film (vapor barrier).

Do not forget that the sheathing breaks at the openings:

Insulation of the attic floor (ceiling) of a frame house

WITH top floor everything is the same as with the floor of a frame house, only there is no point in insulating from below, we do everything from above. Remember that you can pour or lay not only 150-200 mm of insulation (in the size of the floor joists), but also 300, 400 or even 500 mm of insulation. Walking on it will be problematic, but it will be very warm in winter and cool in summer.

Attic insulation

Video about insulating the attic with Rockwool:

Insulation of the basement of a frame house

It is convenient to insulate the base of a frame house with polystyrene foam or extruded foam plastic, which is attached to special fasteners.

So, in this article we introduced you to the most different options insulation of a frame house. This is a very important stage that can directly affect the health of you and your loved ones, so I urge you to take it responsibly.

And traditionally, I remind you about our services - you can buy a ready-made one from us or order its development according to your needs, and if you are still interested in insulation, we will insulate your house with ecowool or bring it.