Reliable thermal insulation helps to reduce heat loss and create comfortable conditions in a brick building. Thermal insulation of a house made of silicate bricks is necessary and due to the instability of the material to moisture. Additional thermal insulation corrects this disadvantage. Insulation is chosen depending on the type of brick and type of masonry.

What is insulated with?

Moisture absorption and moisture permeability of structures in silicate brick buildings is eliminated by insulating them. In addition, thermal insulation keeps your home warm in winter and cool in summer. Wall insulation depends on them. Insulation is carried out in two types:

• from the inside;
• outside.

Internal insulation of structures in silicate brick houses is rarely done, since the dew point shifts inward, which contributes to the formation of condensation on the walls and requires the installation of an effective ventilation system. In addition, you will need to insulate the slopes, floor and ceiling. Insulation can be fiber basalt slabs and foam glass.

To insulate the walls from the inside, only environmentally friendly materials with a low flammability are used in order to avoid the release of harmful substances into the room.

The house can be insulated with polystyrene foam.

Outside, silicate brick is insulated using the following materials:

• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam;
• polyurethane;
• expanded polystyrene.

Material calculation

To effectively insulate the house and avoid moving the dew point inward, you need a correct calculation of the thickness of the insulation. The thickness of the material depends on its thermal resistance. The average indicator of this value for walls in private and multi-storey buildings should be at least 3.5. The layer of material for insulation will be the thicker, the lower the thermal resistance of the wall. The calculation is performed according to the formula: R = d / k, where d is the thickness of the material, k is the coefficient of thermal conductivity. Indicators k are constant and are shown in the table.

For polyurethane foam, you need to calculate the thickness of the insulation.

For example, the thickness of the polyurethane foam layer is calculated for insulating a structure made of silicate bricks with a thickness of 0.5 m. First, the thermal resistance of the wall is determined: R = 0.5 / 0.7 = 0.71. Calculate this indicator for polyurethane foam: R (p) = 3.5-0.71 = 2.79. The insulation layer is found by the formula: d = R (p) x k = 2.79 × 0.02 = 0.0558 m. Thus, the polyurethane foam layer must be at least 55 mm.

Brick is a traditional material for private construction. But unlike wood, it necessarily requires high-quality insulation. If this is not done, then life in the house is unlikely to be pleasant and comfortable, especially in the cold season.

Peculiarities

Insulation of a brick house is a large complex of works. It is not enough to execute them only on the walls of the facade, it will be necessary to carry out certain manipulations with the roof, the rest of the walls, the base and the floor. It is imperative to take into account what kind of brick was used, how the masonry was made, in which climatic region the construction or repair is being carried out.

It is impossible to insulate solid blocks from the outside using the same method that is suitable for parts with air cavities. The way of laying (continuous or providing an internal air gap) is also important.

When assessing thermal conductivity, one cannot rely only on tabular indicators that can be found on the Internet or in special literature. Technologies are changing rapidly, and also each manufacturer is trying to put their own know-how into circulation, vary the recipe and processing modes. Therefore, you should focus only on official information from suppliers.

If you plan to lay a brick in a continuous layer, the insulation can be placed on one side or on both sides at once. The use of front panels and in-wall insulation of hollow masonry has its own subtleties.

The best materials

The coefficient of thermal conductivity is a decisive indicator for any thermal insulation material. It is equal to the heat energy that passes through 100 cm of the coating in 60 minutes. If we proceed only from this parameter, then it is best to cover the brick wall with expanded polystyrene and mineral wool.

But you need to take into account other nuances, because if the material keeps heat well, this does not mean that it is suitable for all possible cases. It is very important to pay attention to the intensity of moisture absorption - depending on this indicator, no material can compare with extruded polystyrene foam.

The same method of protection is the most dense of all. If we take into account the flammability (minimum class G1 - stopping combustion after the fire ceases), then EPS and foam are in approximately equal positions. It is not always possible to use expanded clay, it is suitable only for houses with well masonry.

Such thermal protection is very simple to create, but over time it can become heterogeneous, which negatively affects performance. It is possible to use drywall for insulation only indoors, because manufacturers' statements about the resistance of some options to high humidity should not be taken seriously.

It is relatively simple to use polystyrene, including penoplex. Large slabs are sometimes equipped with a thorn-groove system, they can be glued from the basement profile. This solution is suitable for siding, but the level of permeability of the finishing layer for steam will not satisfy anyone. If, nevertheless, there is a desire to choose just such heaters, it is worth equipping a full-fledged ventilated facade on top.

Penoplex can be laid in a variety of ways. A typical sheet has a width of 600 mm, a length of 1.2 or 2.4 m. In different modifications, the thickness of the sheet varies from 20 to 100 mm. Among all versions, in the first place is deservedly the modification "Facade", specially designed for finishing and thermal protection of capital external walls.

Some amateur builders choose brick wall cladding with aerated concrete blocks for insulation. Such a measure is recommended if there is a suitable fulcrum and the whole structure is well thought out. It is worthwhile in advance, in the process of preparing the load-bearing wall, to put fiberglass reinforcement in the form of outlets.

It is not worth using expanded clay concrete for thermal protection of brick structures, since its thermal qualities are not good enough. It is justified to insulate a wall made of silicate brick with basalt wool because it lasts a long time and is a completely natural solution. Instead of a loose or roll version, it is most correct to take cotton slabs, they are considered the most reliable.

They began to insulate houses with granulated foam glass back in the 1930s, but then it was very expensive and was not very practical. The porosity of such a material, obtained using modern technology, ranges from 80 to 95%. The color depends on which particular raw material was used. Despite the lightness, the resistance to compression of this material is very high, and the release of heat to the outside is noticeably ahead of even wood.

The advantage of foam glass is excellent damping of external noise; but we must not forget that it is quite expensive and can be destroyed by mechanical action.

Specifications

The standard thickness of insulation for brick walls is determined by the simplest formulas. It is better to focus on the rate of thermal resistance established for a specific region of the country. The second indispensable parameter for an accurate calculation is the thermal resistance of the main bearing surfaces, and the third is the same, but for thermal protection.

A half-brick wall is taken equal to 12 cm, one brick - 24 cm, and for a three-layer structure, the calculation is carried out at a thickness of 0.8 m. A three-layer structure is a very rare and rather expensive option. The main part of the structures is made in one or one and a half bricks, and if there are less than three blocks, then on the entire post-Soviet territory one cannot do without insulation. This rule also applies to the coast of the Black and Azov Seas.

A common mistake is to insulate walls from the inside, it leads to condensation and other negative phenomena. For siding or a ventilated facade, most often mineral or glass wool with a density of at least 40 kg and 17 kg per 1 cubic meter is used. m respectively. When it is planned to insulate the walls with decorative bricks, it will be necessary to strengthen the foundation by adding mortar.

Whether the wall after finishing with insulation will be permeable to water vapor or not depends on the personal preferences of the owners. An exception is made only for the steam room, where the release of vapors outside is required.

Which to choose?

After reviewing the basic information on insulation materials, it is easy to understand that their choice cannot be dictated solely by financial considerations. An attempt to save money on insulation only turns into an additional expense during the operation of the building. It should be borne in mind that, depending on the chosen option, the following changes:

• the composition of the required hand tool;
• types of used machinery;
• list of components;
• sequence of work;
• execution of the foundation.

A very light base will easily withstand the load created by the foamed polymer, but if ceramic granules are used, it will already be unreliable. And you also need to pay attention to whether an external decorative finish will be needed or whether the heat protection parts themselves will turn out to be quite attractive in performance.

If you need to mount siding, facing brick or plaster, you will need more adhesives, fasteners, geotextiles, and so on. This circumstance will significantly complicate the work. Materials for internal and external insulation should be carefully separated.

In the second case, the requirements for environmental safety are much less, but the danger of the destructive effects of moisture and wind increases. External heaters are preferable for another reason: they allow you to leave the entire load-bearing wall in the area of ​​freezing temperatures and completely exclude its freezing.

The use of internal insulation materials becomes mandatory in the following cases:

• by the decision of the state supervision authorities, this is the only way to do it;
• an unheated technical room is located immediately behind the wall (this is irrelevant for the facade of the house);
• very severe frosts are likely, which require the most intensive protection of the habitable space.

Mineral wool, while not bad on its own, is quickly soaked in water. Therefore, you will need to cover it from the outside with waterproof films. If you want to make the "cake" as thin as possible, you should pay attention to extruded polymer mixtures, because they are almost impervious to moisture and are characterized by increased strength. When assessing flammability, it is recommended to compare the actual performance of the material with the requirements set by the fire department.

The advantage of roll and sheet coatings over liquid options is that they can be easily assembled even by non-professionals who do not have specialized tools.

Actual technologies

The best solution would be not to look for a suitable option among all possible approaches to insulation in principle, but to focus on modern methods. They fully meet all the requirements of the standards and, in addition, have absorbed the concentrated experience of many centuries. There are two key areas that are most in demand now:

• Sandwich format. A frame (made of wood or metal) is mounted on completely finished walls, into which insulation is inserted. Outside, decorative material is applied to the frame. The advantage of this method is high strength and reliability, but the foundation of the building must also be strong and solid.
• "Wet Facade". The insulation is glued with special mixtures, then it is covered with a reinforcing mesh and finishing. It is worth noting that expanded polystyrene will be correctly installed as a substrate for vinyl siding and other finishing materials.

The method of fastening when choosing a "wet facade" is approximately the same as when working with foam, namely:

• the first step is to clean the walls from dirt, dust and plaster;
• large cracks are covered with a putty, and the surface as a whole should be covered with a layer of primer;
• a starting profile is placed, it is fastened around the perimeter with dowel-nails. Be sure to check horizontal lines with a building level;
• in addition to gluing polystyrene foam, sometimes it is attached with anchors or special pastes;
• fastening in the central part of the panels with dowel-nails increases the rigidity of the structure;
• it is required to seal the joints of the plates with polyurethane foam, and take a reinforcing mesh that is not destroyed by acids and alkalis.

If well masonry is being made, roll materials can be used to waterproof it from the inside. Insulation itself is carried out by filling in special reagents - lightweight concrete, slag, expanded clay and some others. It is required to ram the material every 50 cm.

Much attention should be paid to warming the corners, while the effect of a thermos should be achieved. It is recommended to carefully study the chemical composition of the coating to be installed or the mixture poured into it in order to be completely confident in their safety and reliability.

How to make self-assembly?

Calculations

Even the most modern methods of insulating brick walls are available to ordinary people. The main condition for their use is an accurate and competent calculation of the structure. Only he allows you to simultaneously guarantee the retention of heat inside and the minimum cost of work. The simplest and most effective solution in many cases is wall insulation with extruded polystyrene foam. Calculating the required metrics is fairly straightforward.

For example, the wall is lined with solid bricks, each 30 cm thick. Resistance to heat transfer is determined by dividing this thickness by the thermal conductivity of the material. It turns out the difference between the normatively prescribed and real thermal resistance.

Now you need to multiply this difference by the thermal conductivity of the selected insulation. The calculated result must, if necessary, be rounded to the nearest whole value (since roll and plate heat shields are produced in multiples of 1 cm).

When several layers are used at once, their energy characteristics must be added together in order to avoid mistakes.

The insulation of the end wall in a house or apartment has its own subtleties. In apartment buildings, such manipulation is rarely carried out outside, as it is very expensive and impractical. This must be preceded by a thorough search for probable cold bridges. As in other cases, it is recommended to use expanded polystyrene, foam or basalt-based materials.

Sequence of work

Ceramic brick not only insulates the facade, but also looks attractive and serves reliably. But this is carried out only on the condition that the masonry is made according to the rules, its seams are completely even and not dirty. The presence of the slightest cracks or mortar stains on the blocks is unacceptable. The mixture for fixing the masonry is formed by M-400 cement and sand in a ratio of 1: 3.

It is worth noting that you cannot take river sand, because it leads to a rapid shrinkage of the solution, if you do not add a plasticizer. It is not at all necessary to create a classic gray seam: a wide variety of pigments are willingly sold in a set for facing bricks.

The first step in the work is to prepare the waterproofing. For her, take either roofing material or thick polyethylene. Begin laying from the corners, leaving an air gap to the main wall (40-50 mm). The prepared mortar should be relatively dense, but not too heavy to work with a trowel. A metal rod with a section of 8x8 to 12x12 mm is placed on the front edges of the masonry.

Next to it, the solution should be level, and on the back side - about 1 cm higher. A vertical seam is created in a similar way. All stripes will need to be rubbed with a fine brush after 120-180 minutes, to cover any holes or scuffs that appear. Then it will be excluded from the ingress of water from the external environment.

Content

The owners of private houses are well aware of how serious the issue of insulating the facade of the house is. This has become especially relevant with the rise in energy prices. Insulation of the facade will allow you to keep thermal energy inside the house, creating a comfortable and cozy atmosphere in it. In addition, it allows you to significantly save on utility bills. To understand how to insulate a brick house from the outside, you need to familiarize yourself with existing technologies and installation features.

Features of external thermal insulation

When insulating the walls of a brick house externally, many nuances must be taken into account. The thermal conductivity of the wall depends on the structure of the brick, for example, it is hollow or solid. The quality of the selected heat insulator is important. It is unacceptable to use thermal insulation intended for internal insulation, for insulation of the facade. After all, it has significant differences in technical characteristics.

Materials for thermal insulation of external brick walls

Insulation of walls from the outside implies a change in the appearance of the house. The final result will be influenced by the chosen thermal insulation technology.

Among the advantages:

1. Saving energy during the heating season.
2. Increase in the service life of the bearing part.
3. External insulation of the facade of a brick house allows you to change the appearance.
4. Sound insulation is increased.

There are two known technologies, using which you can competently insulate a house from the outside.:

1. Multilayer.
2. Wireframe.

In the first case, the insulation is glued directly to the wall. For this, a special adhesive mixture is used. Additionally, the heat insulator is fixed with plastic dowels. The surface is treated with special plaster mixes, with the help of which the external appearance of the facade is formed.

Thermal insulation of walls outside

In the second case, a frame is constructed according to the principle of a ventilated facade. Insulation is placed between the frame posts. The frame can be made of wood or aluminum profile. Cladding material is mounted on it, for example, lining, siding, etc.

The choice of thermal insulation material for warming the house from the outside

You can see a large selection of thermal insulation materials on the market. Each of them has its own technical characteristics. Our article will help you understand the question of how to insulate brick walls.

There are several important criteria that insulation must meet.:

• Coefficient of thermal conductivity. The higher the ratio, the better.
• Water absorption. This indicator should be minimal.
• Density. Determines the total weight of the material. The higher the density, the heavier it is.
• Flammability. To insulate the outer walls of a brick house, it is recommended to choose a G4 class insulation. In the absence of a fire source, the material stops burning.
• Lifetime.
• Water vapor permeability.

Determining the thickness of the heat-insulating layer, it is recommended to pay attention to:

• The type of building material. There are different types of bricks: silicate, stove and so on. Silicate double has the lowest thermal conductivity. For him, the layer of thermal insulation can be minimal.
• Laying method. If the masonry is solid, the outer walls are insulated. If the masonry has air pockets, then installation is carried out only for internal walls.

Thermal insulation of house walls with external facade plaster

So, what is the best way to insulate a brick house from the outside? Let's compare several technologies with each other:

Material	Properties
Styrofoam	This is expanded polystyrene, the cells of which are filled with gas. This structure provides a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, which reaches 0.033. Polyfoam, in addition to insulation, increases the quality of sound insulation of the structure. This insulation is lightweight. Density - from 35 to 50 kg / m 3. For facade finishing, a thickness of 100 mm is recommended. Disadvantages of foam: flammability, sensitivity to ultraviolet rays, vapor permeability.
Extruded polystyrene foam	Possesses all the properties of foam. But it has an additional advantage: the coefficient of thermal conductivity is up to 0.028. Extruded polystyrene foam is stronger than polystyrene and easier to install.
Mineral wool	Resistant to combustion. Environmentally friendly. The minimum density is from 35 to 125 kg / m 3. Thermal conductivity ranges from 0.04 to 0.045. It allows steam to pass through, which eliminates the likelihood of dampness. Possesses good sound insulating properties. Sold in rolls, slabs and mats. For reliable protection of a brick house, a material with a height of up to 150 mm is recommended.
Basalt wool	The density of slab basalt wool ranges from 75 to 150 kg / m 3. Easy to install. A big minus is a high level of water absorption. The insulation must be protected with a special waterproofing layer.
Warm plaster	It is a mixture of perlite, expanded clay, expanded polystyrene granules, plasticizer, lime and cement. Thermal insulation level from 0.06 to 0.065. Does not support and spreads fire. Has a high vapor permeability coefficient. Copes with the negative effects of moisture. Increases sound insulation of walls. The density of warm plaster is from 200 to 350 kg / m 3. Because of this, a serious load is placed on the foundation. Recommended thickness is 50 mm.
Thermal panels	The thermal panel has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity (no more than 0.025 with a product thickness of 100 mm). The thermopanel is based on polyurethane foam. Thanks to the large assortment, in addition to insulation, you can immediately decorate the facade. The front side of the thermal panel is lined with ceramic tiles. The insulation is highly resistant to moisture and frost. Very easy to install.

When deciding how to insulate the facade of a brick house, one should not take into account the individual technical characteristics of the structure.

How to insulate the exterior brick walls of a house with modern materials

Of all the materials listed, the most popular are foam and mineral wool. If the work is done by hand, then we offer step-by-step instructions on how to properly insulate a brick house.

Mineral wool insulation

We suggest considering 2 ways of fixing mineral wool: on glue and in a frame.

Mineral wool for thermal insulation

Mineral wool insulation technology for glue:

• The evenness of the walls is determined. It is possible to glue mineral wool on relatively flat and smooth walls. Therefore, the quality of the brickwork must be appropriate.
• A line is bounced along the perimeter of the facade with a laser level to secure the starting bar. The profile is fixed with dowels. It will serve as a support for the first row.
• The surface of the wall is coated with a primer to increase the adhesion quality.
• A special composition is prepared for gluing the plates.
• The glue is evenly distributed over the entire surface of the mineral wool.
• The insulation is neatly pressed against the wall.
• The board must be fixed with plastic dowels. For this, mounting holes are drilled through the plate and fungi are clogged in them. Their caps should be slightly recessed so that there are no bumps when finishing the facade. Up to 5 dowels can be used for one slab.
• Having fixed the first row in this way, the second begins with an offset of exactly half. All subsequent rows are also staggered.

Advice! When insulating a house using mineral wool slabs, you may find irregularities that form at the joints of the joint. They should be removed with special mineral wool graters.

In conclusion, it remains to perform the reinforcement of the insulating surface. The finish is covered with a decorative layer of plaster and painted.

How to insulate walls with mineral wool using the frame method... Sequence of work:

• A crate is made for attaching the facing material from wood or metal.
• The step between the battens should be 20 mm less than the width of the thermal insulation so that it fits snugly.
• Mineral wool is installed between the battens.
• After the installation of the insulation, the polyethylene film and the facing facade material are fixed.

Frame method of insulation

Warming with expanded polystyrene

There are features of the insulation of brick walls from the outside with expanded polystyrene. Sequence of work:

1. The technical condition of the base brick wall is analyzed. The cracks are covered up. The surface is well cleaned from dust, dirt and other contaminants.
2. It is imperative that the entire plane is primed to increase the adhesion of the adhesive to the wall.
3. A starting profile is fixed along the perimeter of the facade. It is recommended to use a laser level during installation.
4. An adhesive is being prepared.
5. Plumbing glue is laid out on a sheet of expanded polystyrene.
6. The sheet is moderately pressed against the wall. The evenness of the glued sheet must be controlled using a long strip or rule.
7. For additional fixation, plastic dowels with caps are used. For their installation, technological holes are drilled through the insulation.
8. In case of gaps between the sheets of expanded polystyrene, fill them with polyurethane foam.

Expanded polystyrene for thermal insulation of brick walls

Each subsequent row is staggered. In conclusion, the surface is reinforced and a decorative finishing plaster for outdoor use is applied to it. After complete drying, the plaster can be painted in the desired color.

Important! If you follow the recommendations, all the work can be done with your own hands without the involvement of specialists. Moreover, there is no need to use expensive equipment and tools.

Conclusion

We tried to consider in detail the question of how and what is the best way to insulate brick walls. The choice of thermal insulation material should be based on the features of the masonry and the structure of the brick. You should not save on the quality of a heat insulator, because a high-quality insulated facade will save money when heating a house in winter. We suggest watching a video in which you will discover many nuances that will help you do your own editing.

Hello! My husband and I bought a house built in 1976 from white sand-lime bricks, in which no one had lived for 7 years. The windows are boarded up with boards, the roof is slate, in the attic there is probably slag and grease (from the operation of the furnace) as a heater. We bought it in October last year, and immediately began a major overhaul of the rooms. They drilled a well, brought water into the house, made a septic tank. Heating - convectors. The windows are plastic. The site is wet, the groundwater is close, 50-60 cm near the house, and on the site, 20-30 cm. The house stands on a hill in relation to the site. During the inspection of the house before buying, we took into account the moment that the house is dry, the floors are not rotten, but this is probably due to the constant ventilation of the clogged windows. The cake of the wall is like this: brick, a brick-wide void, and again a brick. There is no insulation in the void. The foundation, as it turned out later, was only 20 cm high, the base 10 cm. Between the base and the masonry, it was either bitumen, or mastic, i.e. waterproofing seems to be present. There was a blind area in some places, in some places not. The walls were sheathed from the inside with moisture-resistant plasterboard, and on some walls they were glued directly to the walls, having previously treated them with an antibacterial solution against the fungus, on other walls, first profiles, then GK in order to align the corners of 90 degrees. When the first room was sheathed, plastered, the corners began to get damp, then no one lived in the house, only the repairman came, they drowned a little and sinned that the house was not yet warmed up, it was January. Then the repairman made round holes in each wall at a height of 20 cm for ventilation. And the dampness has passed, only blowing through these holes is not sickly, especially when the door is closed. By April, this room was covered with vinyl wallpaper and moved to live. In the summer, on the cool days, they turned on the convectors and heated the house. But it was still somehow humid. Now the furniture has been pushed aside, and behind the sofa the wall is wet, the sofa is against the outer wall, the drawers have been pulled out of the wall - and there is mold on the drawers below. How to deal with this? Tell! When installing the floors, they did the following: they removed the old wooden floors, put the film on, poured the screed, put 5 cm foam plastic, reinforcing mesh, again the screed, the film, the underlay for the laminate, the laminate. Wet walls only in the place where the furniture is close to the wall, the closet is 2 cm - the wall is dry, but the things in the closet are damp. In the summer, they dug up the house and poured concrete around the perimeter of the type of reinforcement of the foundation 40 cm wide and 50 cm deep. Is it possible to insulate the house from the outside with foam plastic, or will this not solve the problem with humidity? The walls are all crooked, they thought to somehow level them with foam plastic under the plaster. Help with advice!

Content

Brick is a classic material for building a house, designed for many decades of use. The thermal conductivity of brick walls depends on its thickness - the number of rows of masonry. If, in the very first winter after construction, a wall in a brick house freezes, this means that the construction technology is broken or the thickness of the enclosing structures is insufficient. In this case, it is required to solve the issue of thermal insulation of the external walls of the building. Priority should be given to external insulation, but its installation is not always possible. Consider how to insulate a brick house from the inside, what materials are preferable to use and how to properly perform the installation of thermal insulation.

How to insulate the internal brick walls of a house Features of wall insulation

Human activity is associated with a large release of heat and moisture. Bodies and household appliances radiate heat. Moisture is released during breathing, during cooking, using water for hygiene procedures, washing dishes, watering flowers. And the warmer the air, the better it retains moisture.

If the walls are not sufficiently insulated, condensation will form on them when the heated humid air cools down. It will provoke the development of the fungus, and dark spots will appear on the surface of the walls and ceiling. Fungal spores are harmful to human health - they enter the respiratory system, causing asthma attacks or an allergic reaction. In addition, mold has a destructive effect on the materials from which the walls are erected, irreparably spoiling the finish.

Wall with and without insulation

Before insulating the walls of a brick house from the inside, it is advisable to understand how this will affect the operating conditions of the external walls and the microclimate in the room.

Where to locate the insulation?

It is correct to insulate buildings from the outside, otherwise condensation of moisture from the vapor cannot be avoided when warm air comes into contact with a cold front (dew point). Consider three types of brick walls:

• There is no insulation. The dew point is located in the thickness of the wall, so it accumulates moisture in the winter months, damp and decays over time.
• The insulating layer is located on the side of the room. The wall freezes through, due to which the dew point shifts towards the room, to the inner surface of the enclosing structure. Because of this, moisture condenses between the heat insulator and the wall. To avoid dampness of the wall, it is necessary to provide for effective ventilation of the room.
• The insulating layer is laid from the side of the street. The wall does not freeze, therefore it remains dry and freely releases steam outside. It is important that a ventilation gap is provided between the insulating layer and the brickwork to remove moisture coming from the room.

Internal instead of external

Obviously, insulating a brick house from the inside is not the best solution. However, you have to resort to it if:

• The building is an architectural monument, and it is forbidden to make changes to the appearance of the facade.
• The walls of an apartment in a multi-storey building are freezing. According to the current regulations, it is impossible to unauthorized installation of structures that change the appearance of the building.
• The buildings are located close to each other, which makes it impossible to carry out work on external wall insulation.
• The outer masonry of the house is made of expensive facing bricks and it is a pity to cover it with a new finish, and laying a new outer layer of decorative bricks after installing thermal insulation requires additional serious financial investments.

The disadvantages of insulation of internal walls include a decrease in the space of the room due to the fastening of the insulation and the base for finishing. The thickness of the insulating “pie” is usually at least 10 cm.

When installing a heat insulator inside the house, it is important to take into account that the insulation of the inner surfaces of the walls threatens with condensation, which should not be allowed.

Ventilation gap improves the thermal conductivity of the wall

Vapor permeability

In order to breathe well in the living room and the air is not excessively humidified, high-quality ventilation is necessary. In buildings with brick walls, it is easy to breathe, since the material is vapor-permeable due to its porous structure. And so that excess moisture does not condense under a layer of insulation on the wall, but freely leaves the room, an important rule must be observed - vapor permeability should increase towards the outside, i.e. to the street.

This means that when insulating walls made of bricks from the inside, you cannot use materials that let steam through better than the brick itself. Otherwise, it will lead to the deposition of condensate on the structures. That is, sheathing of a freezing wall with plasterboard will provoke a constant dampness of structures in the cold season.

Material selection criteria

In the process of choosing how to insulate a brick wall from the inside, it is important to take into account the thermal insulation parameters of the material, as well as the indicators of its vapor permeability. To protect freezing brick walls from contact with steam, choose one of three options:

• A polymer heat insulator is used that does not allow steam to pass through. Extruded polystyrene foam, high-density foam (loose material is vapor-permeable), foam foam, sprayed polyurethane foam will help to insulate the walls from the inside.
• They carry out the laying of mineral wool insulation (as well as loose foam) using high-quality hydro and vapor barrier. A fiber heat insulator is vapor permeable and tends to accumulate moisture. Basalt wool does not collapse under the influence of water, but its insulating properties deteriorate sharply.
• A thick layer of heat-insulating plaster is applied to the enclosing structures.

When deciding what is the best way to insulate your brick house, consider the method of installing the heat insulator. In almost all cases, you can do insulation from the inside with your own hands. The exception is the spraying of polyurethane foam, since the work requires the use of special equipment.

Material properties and installation technology

Let's figure out which insulation is better for the walls of a brick house, taking into account the advantages and disadvantages of each option, as well as the installation features of popular materials.

Note! The thickness of the insulating layer is calculated individually, taking into account the heat loss of the house and the insulating properties of the selected material!

Mineral wool

Internal insulation of brick walls with mineral wool slabs has a certain specificity due to the vapor-permeable structure of the material. The heat insulator is required to be closed on both sides with a vapor barrier film, ensuring tightness to prevent heated humid air from contacting the enclosing structures.

The scheme of insulation of internal brick walls with mineral wool

Work progress:

• a vapor barrier film is attached to the wall (with an overlap on the adjacent planes of the walls, floor and ceiling), the joints of the roll material are reliably glued with tape;
• a vertical crate is mounted with a step slightly less than the width of the heat insulator, the depth of the cells must correspond to the thickness of the insulation;
• mineral wool slabs are embedded in the cells;
• a vapor barrier material with hermetically sealed butt joints is attached on top;
• a counter-lattice is stuffed for fastening sheathing from chipboard sheets, drywall or other materials.

Extruded polystyrene foam

The advantages of modern material are excellent thermal insulation properties, lightness and strength. Extruded polystyrene foam is fire resistant. It is possible to insulate structures with this material by analogy with mineral wool, but the lathing contributes to the formation of cold bridges, which lead to the formation of condensation zones.

The scheme of insulation of brick walls with expanded polystyrene inside the room
Consider how to properly insulate a brick wall from the inside using extruded polystyrene foam:

• the surface is cleaned, leveled with a thin layer of plaster and primed;
• with the help of polyurethane foam or foam glue, foam polymer boards are glued to the wall - the elements are positioned with a shift of half the width in order to avoid long vertical seams;
• the joints are filled with polyurethane foam, after hardening, the excess is cut off.

The best option after these works can be gluing a reinforcing mesh and plastering the surface for painting or wallpapering. You can also use the dowels "fungi" to attach pieces of metal profile length of about 10 cm, which then sew drywall. But the use of "fungi" violates the integrity of the insulating layer.

Styrofoam

The advantage of foam is its low cost, in all other respects it is significantly inferior to extruded polystyrene foam. The main drawback of the material is flammability with the release of toxic substances. Foam plastic with a density of at least 35 kg / m 3 can be used as a heat insulator. To make thermal insulation of the walls of a brick house from the inside, a high-density material (about 50 kg / m 3) can be mounted using the technology of fastening extruded polystyrene foam, and a looser, steam-permeable material can be used as mineral wool. In this case, the joints between the elements of thermal insulation and the crate are sealed with polyurethane foam.

The scheme of wall insulation from the inside with foam plastic

Penofol

The polyethylene foam heat insulator can be foiled on one side or on both sides. The material is characterized by low thickness with high thermal insulation properties. Penofol 4 mm thick can replace 80 mm mineral wool. At the same time, it is often used together with mineral wool slabs in order to increase the thermal insulation properties of the "pie", while reducing its thickness. In this case, it is attached instead of a vapor barrier film after laying the heat insulator in the crate.

You can make thermal insulation of walls and partitions from one foam foam. Rails with a thickness of 20 mm or more are stuffed onto the walls to create an air gap. With the help of staples, horizontal strips of foam foil are mounted with a foil layer to the room, gluing the joints with aluminum tape. Then a counter-lattice is stuffed for wall cladding for decoration. The foil layer reflects heat radiation, helping to retain heat in the house.

Sprayed PU foam

A warm wall without cold bridges will help to make a sprayed polyurethane foam. The foamed polymer is applied in an even layer to the prepared surface using special equipment. If the estimated thickness of the layer exceeds 3-4 cm, it is recommended to mount the crate-formwork, which will serve as the basis for fastening the cladding for the finishing. The disadvantage of the material is the high cost of work.

Internal insulated walls with polyurethane foam

Plaster

Plastering walls is a classic method of insulation. This is a good option if you do not want to turn the room into a sealed box with artificial ventilation, since the plaster layer is "breathable", like the brick wall itself. The disadvantages include the duration and complexity of the "wet" work - plastering will have to be done in several layers in order to achieve the required thickness of thermal protection.

Application of plaster for brick walls

Conclusion

Knowing how to insulate a brick wall from the inside, using various types of materials, their advantages and disadvantages, it is easier to choose the appropriate option. If you plan to do the whole range of work with your own hands, you must follow the instructions, because a violation of technology threatens with serious consequences in the form of mold on the walls and the gradual destruction of brickwork. We must not forget that internal insulation requires supply and exhaust ventilation, which will remove excess moisture.