The bathhouse is one of the integral parts of Russian life. Despite modern technologies and development, it is unlikely that our compatriot will refuse the opportunity to steam in a bathhouse, which he built with his own hands on the site. Even if you are not the happy owner of a city mansion, you can build it in your country house. ABOUT own bathhouse Many people dream, but how to make dreams come true?

DIY sauna from foundation to roof. Features of construction

Classic Russian baths are, of course, wooden buildings. They have some similarities with Finnish sauna. To construct them, a frame is cut down and hewn from the inside. In Russia, pine and some other types of wood are used as construction materials. The main indicator when choosing is the minimum amount of resinous substances, since when heated and humidity such material begins to “sweat”.

The construction technology itself log bathhouse has its own characteristics and differences from the construction of a residential hut. First of all, these are increased requirements for the characteristics and quality of the material. The logs must be seasoned, straight and capable of providing a quality connection.

The tightness indicators are given Special attention. Unnecessary heat loss will be very noticeable, which reduces efficiency. For maximum temperature preservation, the walls are caulked using moss or tow.

A bathhouse built from timber or logs has an impressive and attractive appearance, but not everyone can afford the price of such a structure. A cheaper option is to use frame-panel technologies. It requires a small amount of materials, and the foundation itself will cost less, since mineral wool or similar analogues are used as insulation. In this case, there is no need to build a massive foundation due to the insignificant weight of the entire structure.

Advantage frame walls for a bathhouse is the absence of settlement of the building. However, there are also disadvantages to using frames - the appearance of moisture during snowstorms and rains. It is formed during the process of vapor condensation. To avoid such troubles, use waterproofing.

Before starting construction, you need to understand the main steps that need to be completed:

• The correct approach begins with drawing up estimate documentation. It will allow you to display prices for all types of work and necessary materials. In addition, the estimate will allow for adjustments and redistribution of the budget.

• After this, you can start creating a bath project. Without skills and abilities in this area, you will not be able to think through everything to the smallest detail. Because of this, it is best to invite a professional architect who will draw up drawings with the basic requirements and wishes of the client.

• One of the main stages in the construction of a bathhouse is the selection of materials for the foundation. This building element directly affects the durability and strength of the entire structure.

• Next, you need to select the most optimal materials for walls and roofing in terms of price and quality. Today the construction market has a lot of offers that can satisfy everyone’s wishes.

• When building a bathhouse, special attention is required to internal communications, such as electricity and plumbing.

• Depending on the size of the bath space and personal wishes, it is necessary to select a stove and consider its installation location.

• The final stage in the construction of a bathhouse is the finishing work inside the room.

DIY sauna from foundation to roof

First you need to decide on the location on the site. This requires special attention from the owner. The choice itself depends on the size of the territory and the evenness of the surface. It is also worth considering the geometric parameters of the bath itself. It is worth considering the most optimal conditions for supplying communications in the future. To support bath traditions, it is built near bodies of water in order to experience all the charm and contrast of sensations when plunging into cool water.

Development of a project for building a bathhouse

In the classical style, the bathhouse consists of three rooms: a dressing room, a steam room and a washing room. Often last rooms combined into one. The dressing room is necessary for the location of the locker, benches, table and chairs. This is where company gathers for friendly gatherings. Shelves for bath accessories, firewood or coal are also installed here.

The choice and development of a bathhouse project depends on wishes, free territory and financial capabilities. It is quite difficult to create a high-quality and thoughtful plan on your own. To do this, it is best to invite an architect who can quickly turn your dreams into a real project. It should be noted that the dimensions can be arbitrary. But for maximum convenience, it is necessary to carry out calculations. For comfort, each person steaming should have about 5-6 m2. However, in reality, bathhouses are built both larger and smaller.

Do-it-yourself bathhouse foundation

Like other buildings, a bathhouse requires the construction of a foundation, which must be laid to the depth of soil freezing. In this case, it is necessary to decide on the material for the walls. This is necessary to calculate the maximum loads, since the massiveness of the base itself will differ from the weight of the wall.

If you plan to build stone walls, you will need a strip foundation made of rubble stone. The materials for the foundation can be concrete, iron ore and brick. It is necessary to understand that red and sand-lime bricks are destroyed in the ground due to exposure to moisture.

Having chosen the material, it is necessary to build the foundation half a meter above the soil level. To level the surface, use a cement-sand mortar. After drying, it is necessary to lay the roofing felt on the mastic. This will allow moisture coming from the ground to be cut off from the building.

What type of foundation to choose for a bathhouse

For a bathhouse, you can use several foundation options. Their choice depends on the depth of occurrence groundwater, geometric dimensions of the structure and wall materials. The most effective for a bath are:

• Lightweight concrete strip with a reinforcement belt. It is used in the construction simple designs, which have a small specific gravity. To create a strip foundation, rubble stone or concrete is used. They are held together with mortar. For the device, it is necessary to prepare a pit with a gravel or sand cushion 15 centimeters thick. As for the width of such a foundation, it depends on the size of the bathhouse and the type of structure.

• Columnar with supporting concrete brick or metal pillars. This type used when soil water is deep. It consists of support pillars located at the corners and along the perimeter. The distance between such pillars should not exceed two meters. Concrete, brick, asbestos-cement or metal pipes are used as materials for supports. They are buried in the ground to a certain depth, after which they are filled with concrete.

• Floating. This Alternative option, for which a monolithic slab is used. It can be used on any soil, regardless of the depth of soil moisture. To arrange such a foundation, it is enough to dig a trench with a depth of 50-60 centimeters, at the bottom of which gravel or sand is poured. After this, a layer of waterproofing is laid down and filled with concrete.

• A screw foundation is used when building a bathhouse on loose or unstable soil. It is created using screw pipes that have a pointed tip for easy penetration into the ground. It should be noted that the depth of immersion of piles may vary. The pillars are screwed into the soil by two or three people.

• Pile-screw grillage. It is used as additional strapping using metal channels or timber.

In practice, people want to build a wooden bathhouse because of its unique properties. In this case, the most optimal type of foundation for building a bathhouse with your own hands is a columnar one. Unlike other options, it has a number of advantages:

1. Almost everyone can install a columnar foundation. This does not require special knowledge or the use of construction equipment.
2. A wide range of materials that can be used: concrete, brick and metal pipes.
3. Minimum expenditure of effort and time for its construction. Unlike poured concrete, it dries very quickly.
4. This option is the most effective for a bathhouse, since ventilation and water drainage systems are very easy to organize.

Preparing a trench for the foundation

For example, let’s take conditions in which the soil freezes to 70 centimeters, and soil water is located at a depth of one meter. In this case, it is necessary to use support pillars with a diameter of 200 millimeters, deepened one meter into the ground.

First you need to create a preliminary layout of all support pillars. Along the perimeter of the future building they must be placed in increments of one and a half meters. Additional supports are installed at the intersection of walls and corners. After marking all the pillars, it is necessary to drill holes. They should have a diameter 50 millimeters larger than the pipes themselves. The bottom of the pits is filled with sand 20 centimeters thick, followed by compaction.

After this, pipes are prepared, which should protrude from the ground by at least 40 centimeters. As a result, they will have a length of 1.4 meters. Before installation in the ground, the piles are wrapped in roofing material. During the installation process, the pipes are covered with fine crushed stone or screenings, which will add additional strength to the structure. Rods are mounted into the supports to reinforce the structure. The last stage is concreting.

Features of the foundation for a bathhouse stove

The design of the foundation largely depends on the type of heating furnace that will be used. If you plan to use a device weighing more than 500 kilograms, you should consider creating a separate concrete pad for the furnace. To do this, you can use two options:

1. A columnar or strip foundation is created over the entire area of ​​the furnace with additional structural reinforcement.
2. Another widely used option is a monolithic concrete pad. It is placed exclusively under the stove.

Creating a water drain in a bathhouse with your own hands

When creating a bathhouse you need to think about effective system drainage of water from the premises. As you know, moisture is the enemy of buildings and reduces the service life of materials. Because of this, water must be diverted at least 3-5 meters from the structure. It is necessary to install a drain in the floor of the bathhouse, which will carry moisture through the pipe system into the sewer system. Pipes must be laid below the frost line with a slope of 3 centimeters per meter. You can also use surface trenches with a depth of up to half a meter, the walls of which are lined with clay.

The option for arranging a drainage system largely depends on the volume of water and, of course, material capabilities. However, you need to understand that there is a risk of icing when using a surface gutter. This situation can lead to uncontrolled flow at the ground surface.

If water leaves the bathhouse using a drain, the slopes in the floor must be carefully calculated. If the floors are filled with cement, then drainage is not a particular problem, since modern systems The bottom drain will drain the required volume using pipes.

Another element is sewer well, which has several versions. If there is no drainage well on your site, then you need to build a separate system for the bathhouse. In this case, a size of 1 cubic meter is sufficient.

Digging a well will not be much of a problem. To prevent it from crumbling during operation, it is necessary to lay out the walls with brick or cinder block. Many owners use car tires. For better filtration of removed moisture in wells, it is necessary to install additional horizontal channels.

Bathroom floor installation

First of all, under the future floor it is necessary to cut off the living layer along with the turf. If a bathhouse is being built on a summer cottage, the land should not be removed, since it can be used on the site in the future. The soil must be cut to a depth of 15 centimeters. After leveling the surface, you can begin to work.

The best material for the floor in a bathhouse is a wooden board. The flooring should not be made higher than the level of the foundation, but strong lowering is also unacceptable, since the flooring will absorb moisture from the ground. You need to install additional brick posts under the wooden logs. All frames are covered with tongue and groove boards.

To drain water from the sink, perforations are made in the floor. It must be remembered that there is high humidity in the bathhouse, which affects the wood. Because of this, it is necessary to leave gaps between the boards that will allow the material to move without further deformation.

Another option for flooring is a dirt floor. To do this, you need to use fatty clay that will not allow water to pass through. The water drainage system can be made from gutters. To avoid getting your feet dirty on the clay, install wooden gratings. In this case, it is worth paying special attention to the efficiency of drainage, since stagnant water may cause an unpleasant odor.

As in other buildings, the floor can be made of concrete. This will facilitate the installation of communication systems and increase the service life.

Building bath walls with your own hands

Once the previous steps have been completed, you can begin building the walls. A wide range of materials can be used for this. In the standard view, a bathhouse is a wooden structure, but nowadays it can be created from brick, concrete or rubble stone.

There are standards for wall thickness with different materials. The thickness of concrete or brick for walls should be 51 centimeters (two bricks). Using rubble stone, these indicators increase to 75 centimeters. As for wood, a thickness of 20 centimeters is sufficient.

When using wood as a building material for the walls of a bathhouse, it is necessary to carry out preparations. The main thing is that the logs are well dried and sanded. It is better not to use material damaged by insects or rot.

Of course, using concrete or brick, there are no such problems, but the structure itself will be colder. In addition, constant temperature changes cause condensation to form, which will need to be dealt with. When using wood, moisture is not a problem as it is quickly absorbed into the fibers and released through the pores.

For maximum protection of the log house for a bath, it is necessary to treat it with special antiseptics and fire retardants. It is worth noting that wooden walls cannot be plastered, since moisture will not be removed outside. As a result, rotting of the logs may occur. It is not superfluous to use vapor and waterproofing of the structure.

Choosing material for building bath walls

At the beginning of building a bathhouse from the foundation to the roof with your own hands, a lot of questions arise about what to do and how to do it. One of the main ones is the choice of material for building walls. Today, experienced experts in this industry advise using the following options:

• Profiled timber is one of the most popular and sought-after materials for building a bathhouse. They have a huge number of advantages. The main one is low thermal conductivity. In addition, the timber has an attractive appearance and gives clear and neat lines to the building. When choosing a profiled beam, you need to wait some time for the material to shrink, after which the log house is professionally caulked.

• Glued laminated timber is perfect for a bathhouse because it has a smooth surface and does not require additional finishing work. Unlike profiled timber, this material does not require additional time for shrinkage. Because of this, the bathhouse can be used immediately after all work is completed. When using laminated veneer lumber, the walls retain heat well, and the material is not subject to rotting. It is worth noting that it is highly resistant to chemicals and exposure to rodents. The only drawback is the high price, but it can adequately justify its quality in practice.

• Quite often planed timber is used for bathhouse walls. This is, indeed, a high-quality and affordable material that combines excellent thermal and sound insulation properties of the room.

• To build a classic Russian bathhouse, most owners use logs. Of course, a log structure has its own subtleties during construction that must be observed. One of the features is maintaining the straightness of the fibers. Bends in wood fibers are an accurate sign of poor quality material. In addition, the service life depends on this indicator. After constructing walls from logs, it is necessary to caulk gaps and cracks.

• To create not only a high-quality, but also an attractive building, rounded logs are often used in the construction of bathhouses. The material is reliable and very durable. The disadvantage is the duration of shrinkage, which is one year. Only after waiting for final shrinkage can you continue finishing work and laying communication systems.

• One of the economical options is to use a frame. This perfect solution, since the structure itself will be light in weight, which in turn will save on the foundation. However, the main advantage is the speed of construction. If technology is followed, such structures have excellent characteristics and can last a very long time.

• For maximum safety and durability of the bathhouse, brick is used as a wall material. This is a modern and affordable material that is widely used in all types of construction. To prevent the bathhouse from being cold, it is worth making the walls two bricks thick.

• Today, the cheapest option for building walls in bathhouses is cinder block. This material also allows you to quickly and easily complete construction.

• Aerated concrete is modern and of high quality. Due to its excellent resistance to moisture, the structure will last a very long time. At the same time, the thermal conductivity of aerated concrete is very low.

Despite the abundance of various materials, for building a bathhouse with your own hands, bursa and gas blocks were preferred. Because of this, it is necessary to consider in more detail the features and characteristics of the data. building materials.

Features and advantages of aerated concrete baths:

1. The blocks are relatively light in weight, which significantly reduces the pressure of the finished structure on the foundation.
2. Perfectly protects the room from winds and frost.
3. The porous structure allows moisture to escape.
4. Quick and easy installation work.
5. Construction does not require the use of specialized tools or equipment.

Advantages of timber in the construction of bathhouse walls:

1. The material does not require additional finishing. With personal initiative, you can carry out simple manipulations to improve the appearance of the building.
2. The timber is easy to install and does not require the use of complex technologies.
3. Using this material, there is no need for additional insulation.
4. Timber is a durable and environmentally friendly material.

Technology for laying beams for bath walls

A do-it-yourself bathhouse from the foundation to the roof will last a very long time if you adhere to the technology of laying beams. This material is placed tightly against the pins along the entire perimeter of the constructed foundation. To strengthen the structure, holes with a diameter of 25 millimeters are made in the timber. At the ends, cut-outs are made for grooves or tenons. Insulation materials are placed where the elements are connected to each other.

Professionals recommend using larch beams for the lower rows. This wood is practically resistant to rotting and can withstand temperature changes well. After this, you can use material from any type of wood. Before you start building walls, you need to prepare blanks that will fit geometric parameters future bathhouse. After that they are collected in boxes.

In parallel with the construction of walls, it is necessary to insert window openings and door blocks. You also need to remember that the places where the beams are connected to each other should not be very tight. The resulting gaps are filled with insulation.

The order of laying the beams

• The second wreath is laid on the first beam, which rests on the foundation. After this, through holes are made in the upper one, the lower one is drilled halfway.

• After this, the top beam is removed. Dowels are driven into the holes made, the length of which should be one and a half times the height of the beam.

• Before you apply next row, tow is applied along the entire length. Only after this can the next beams be placed and the dowel driven in.

• It is imperative to cut out the dowel. Its height should be more than 2 centimeters. This will allow you to firmly fix the bars and avoid lifting in the future.

If you decide to use a different material to build walls in the bathhouse, then the technology is the same as for conventional construction. At the same time, do not forget about door and window openings. In the steam room, it would be important to install glass blocks that effectively withstand high temperatures, moisture and transmit light perfectly.

Bathhouse ceiling and roof

Only dry wood is used as a material for covering the bathhouse. These can be boards, slabs or plates. The final choice depends on whether the attic will be used in the future or not. If you plan to use this space only as thermal insulation for a bathhouse, then you can safely use a slab. This will save money. But if you plan to use the attic for your needs, you need to use high-quality materials that can withstand the weight of a person or property stored there.

The front side of the ceiling requires sanding to create a more beautiful view. If plastering is planned in the future, then this procedure is not carried out.

As for the attic side of the ceiling, it should be covered with roofing felt or roofing felt. As insulation, you can use furnace slag or fill it with earth, the layer of which should be 20 centimeters. Before filling the soil, it is necessary to sift it to remove the roots or seeds of plants. You can also use adobe as insulation for the attic of a bathhouse. This is a layer of straw with clay. This option is very common, as it will allow the clay to trap vapors and prevent fire.

The roof of the bathhouse itself can be made of various materials, namely: slate, roofing felt or tiles. To create a colorful look, use reeds or straw. Such options can emphasize the individuality and peculiarity of the structure. When constructing a roof, it is necessary to provide an overhang of at least 50 centimeters. It is also worth taking care of effective ventilation attic. Before heating the bathhouse, the ventilation must be closed.

Doors in the bathhouse

Bathhouse doors can be made with dowels with your own hands; this will require boards 4-5 centimeters thick. If financially possible, you can buy ready-made designs. In any case, it is necessary to take into account that exposure to steam will increase their size. Because of this, it is necessary to maintain a technological gap so that there are no problems with opening in the future.

The doors of the steam room should have a width and height of 70x170 centimeters. If desired, they can be higher. The disadvantage of a high doorway is that the heat that has accumulated at the top of the room escapes when they are opened. To avoid drafts in a heated room, it is necessary to make the threshold quite high, from 15 centimeters. Despite the slight discomfort, it avoids the unpleasant cold that runs down your legs.

Windows in the bathhouse

Like any other buildings, the bathhouse must have windows, the total area of ​​which must be at least 10% of the total floor area. By adhering to such standards, you will receive sufficient daylight. In addition, it will help fight mold and mildew that will dry out when exposed to sunlight.

Given the rather cool climate of Russia, windows must be located at a height of 80 centimeters above the floor. If you plan to place two window frames side by side, you should leave a partition half a meter wide. When installing adjacent frames, a gap of 15 centimeters is required.

As you know, glass actively transfers heat from the building. To reduce these losses, it is worth using designs with two or three glasses. For maximum tightness, the gaps formed between the frame and the window are sealed with tow or similar insulating material.

As for the size and geometry of the windows in the bathhouse, they can be made at the request of the owner. There are no strict criteria in this aspect.

Installation of a stove in a bathhouse

A do-it-yourself bathhouse from the foundation to the roof cannot exist without a special stove, which will produce heat. Their configurations can be very diverse.

The most optimal and effective option for a bathhouse is a stone stove. When creating it, it is necessary to carefully bandage each seam on the masonry, and the seams themselves are made as thin as possible. For construction, baked and heat-resistant bricks are used. Lower level sauna stove should be located 10 centimeters above floor level.

At the request of the owner, the firebox can be located in the washing room itself or on the side of the dressing room. The latter option is more convenient because the waiting room is drier. Despite all this, three sides of the stove should be led into the washing room, which will significantly increase heat transfer. It is also worth leaving a gap of 25 centimeters from the walls of the building. This will allow the room to heat up faster.

Design features of a sauna stove

Don’t think that building a stove yourself is very difficult. The design of the stoves may differ slightly from each other, but they are still made according to the same principle.

All heating design installed on a ground base. For maximum strength and safety, a layer of crushed stone or rubble is placed under the stove, and the gaps are filled with sand. Next, they create the foundation for the furnace, and it must have a flat surface.

To lay out the firebox, burnt brick is used, and a sand-clay mortar with a small proportion of cement is used as a binding material. When making a solution, it is worth adding more sand, since an excessive amount of clay will create cracks and reduce viscosity. In addition to the firebox, a ash pan is laid out for draft purposes, which is located below. To be effective, it must have an area half as large as the firebox itself.

Frames and doors for the stove must be purchased in the store, since making such structures yourself is problematic.

The back of the stove should be covered with a sheet of high-quality metal with a thickness of 10 millimeters. To increase heat transfer efficiency, it is better to use cast iron over the entire length and width of the stove. This is what will happen work surface, which will give off heat. A chimney hole with a diameter of 150 millimeters is cut out in the center of the sheet. An afterburner with a height of 70 centimeters is installed in it. A pipe with a diameter of 30 centimeters is suitable for this production. This chamber is necessary for extinguishing sparks and afterburning gases.

The entire structure of the afterburner and heater is covered with 5 mm steel. As for the heater, it is filled 1/3 with stones. It should have one door installed on the washing side, and the second one opens into the steam room. To remove smoke from the heater, use steel pipe. All gaps between the furnace structure and the pipe are sealed with mortar.

A tank for heating water is installed near the afterburner system. Its volume should be within one hundred liters. It can have a wide variety of geometric shapes. The main thing is that the bottom is in contact with the stove tiles.

A variety of types of wood can be used to fire a stove in a bathhouse. It is worth noting that conifers give a large number of resin When using oak you will get a lot of heat and a minimum of soot. You can use coal or gas, but you shouldn't, because they don't have the same spirit at all.

A similar design of a sauna stove produces light steam and low wood consumption. When the tank is full, the water can heat up to 90°C. These are the most optimal indicators for a Russian bath.

Interior and interior decoration of the bathhouse

The bathhouse from the foundation to the roof must be finished with your own hands in the original Russian style quality boards with a minimum content of resinous substances. The best option for arranging the interior space are materials from aspen, linden and birch. You can also use cedar. Pine can only be used after special treatment.

If financially possible, you can not limit yourself to the flora of the temperate zone. For creating unique interior Tropical tree species can be used in the bath. Mahogany looks enchanting in a bathhouse. IN Lately Abashi wood, which the indigenous people of Africa use to make kitchen utensils, has become very popular among our compatriots.

When making the interior lining of a bathhouse, it is customary to place the boards vertically, with careful adjustment to each other. The walls inside are not painted to avoid highlighting harmful substances at high temperatures. In addition, painting will reduce the vapor permeability of the material. In the steam room itself, walls up to a height of one meter can be covered with modern glazed tiles. This makes it easy to wash the most contaminated areas.

The floor and ceiling of the premises must be covered with skirting boards along the entire perimeter. The floor plinth must be waterproof with a height of at least 10 centimeters. It is installed in such a way that the bottom row of sheathing covers it. This technology installation allows water flowing from the walls not to fall behind the baseboard.

Concerning flooring, then it should also be wooden, but without insulation. This is explained by the fact that water constantly gets on it, and the insulation system will not allow moisture to be effectively removed. To facilitate the cleaning process in the bathhouse, especially in the steam room, the floor is covered with ceramic tiles. In this case, it is necessary to maintain slopes up to the drain hole. If a sewer system is used, a siphon is installed in the floor. It will eliminate unpleasant odors from sewer pipes.

The humidity and temperature in the bathhouse varies greatly; therefore, it is necessary to carefully select the material for the doors. The best option is laminated wood, which practically does not change its size due to changes in humidity. As for windows, to minimize heat loss it is worth using modern thermally efficient double-glazed windows.

If someone tells you that he is absolutely indifferent to the bathhouse, do not believe it. In order to convince such a person, it is enough to take him to a bathhouse built with his own hands. Having steamed, he will definitely say that he has always loved to steam. In our country there are a lot of people who are waiting for the weekend to go to the bathhouse with friends to relax.

Now you know how to build a bathhouse from the foundation to the roof with your own hands. Of course, there is a little more wisdom and tricks than is described in this article. Still, you got an idea of ​​the stages of building a bathhouse with your own hands. May you have an easy trip and good health.

A vacation without a bath is not a vacation. Neither a summer shower nor a bath can replace a bathhouse in a suburban area. Of course, if your budget is very limited, you should not attempt to build a two-story bathhouse complex with a swimming pool. But it is possible to build a small cozy bathhouse on a suburban plot with minimal investment.

In this article, we will look at how to build a budget sauna with your own hands, reveal the secrets of choosing and saving building materials, and tell you how to prevent lapses and mistakes for novice craftsmen.

The most popular materials for building baths are wood, bricks and blocks. Wooden sauna can be in the form of a log house or frame.

Wood

Tree - classic material for the construction of baths. Wood is valued for its environmental friendliness and ease of processing. Wooden baths quickly warm up, and the essential resins released into the air have a beneficial effect on the well-being of visitors.

However, wood is far from an ideal option for construction. In order for the walls of the bathhouse to be smooth, you need to choose high-quality timber or logs. Don't forget about shrinkage. The better the wood is dried, the lower the percentage of shrinkage and the risk that the log house will “lead.”

It is important to be able to work with an ax and saw, to have sufficient physical strength and endurance to cut out locks to connect corners, external and internal walls, and ceilings. Of course, you can buy a ready-made log house with delivery to the site, but this involves additional costs and not relevant for the construction of a budget bathhouse. It is best to carry out the construction with at least two people, because it is extremely difficult to lay the crowns alone, especially the top ones.

For the construction of a bathhouse, hardwood, such as linden, is best suited. This material is considered relatively light, therefore, if the geological conditions of the area allow, you can save on the foundation and limit yourself to a lightweight strip version (monolithic or prefabricated).

What else can you save on? For example, on insulation and finishing. If the bathhouse will be used for its intended purpose only in the warm season, there is no need to purchase insulation, beams for sheathing, steam and wind insulation, or finishing decorative material for the facade of the bathhouse. Wood, if thoroughly sanded and coated with protective impregnation and varnish, is quite aesthetically pleasing and fits perfectly into landscape design private land plots.

In a budget bathhouse, you can save on organizing a full-fledged sewerage system and water supply. Since ancient times, in Russian baths, the floors were made to pour, and water was carried in buckets in advance. Yes, this causes some inconvenience, but it will not spoil the overall pleasant experience of the bath procedures.

What can't you save on? Wood is a highly flammable material. If you just neglect to close the ash door, a falling hot ember will lead to a fire and damage to property. A similar situation is possible if fire safety rules are neglected when installing a stove and Therefore, in no case should you skimp on:

• fire-bioprotective impregnation;
• fire cutting;
• materials for insulating the floor in front of the firebox and

We strongly do not recommend saving on fasteners. Firstly, the difference will be insignificant, and secondly, low-quality metal hardware will quickly begin to rust, and unsightly black smudges will appear on the walls. The worst thing that rusted fasteners will lead to is the collapse of building elements due to the loss of their strength.

It is very important to properly organize ventilation in wooden baths. Even if the bathhouse is only 4-6 square meters. Visitors are unlikely to like the aroma of mustiness and mold, and the owner will not be pleased with rotting floors and walls.

Now let’s talk more specifically about wood prices in order to roughly calculate construction costs.

Lumber	Breed	Section or diameter, cm	Price in rubles per cubic meter
Profiled timber	Pine, spruce	140x140	From 11.5 to 14.5 thousand rubles.
Profiled timber	Larch	140x140	From 16.5 to 18.5 thousand rubles.
Round timber	Larch	From 180 to 460	From 8.5 to 10 thousand rubles.
Carriage	Larch	150x250	From 15 thousand rubles.

*The average cost of building materials is current for 2017.

Based on the cost of new lumber, a budget bathhouse will definitely not work. The way out of the situation is to buy used timber at a price of 1000 rubles per cubic meter or from 80 rubles per 1 piece. Used pallets can also be useful if used correctly.

Bricks and blocks

A bathhouse made of blocks or bricks will undoubtedly be more durable than a wooden one. And a fire that suddenly breaks out is not scary for stone walls. At your own taste and discretion, you can build a bathhouse of any size and shape, as long as funds and personal time allow.

Brick manufacturers always have a wide range of products of various shapes, shades, and textures. For example, by combining bricks of two different shades when building walls, you can build a bathhouse that will be very neat and aesthetically pleasing in appearance.

On a note! In a brick bathhouse, the window can be replaced with glass blocks. They have sufficient light transmittance. But in this case, it is important to take care of effective ventilation.

A brick bath takes longer to warm up than a wooden one, and cools down much faster. Brick walls need finishing, and this adds expense items to the overall estimate. Used for laying bricks cement-sand mortar, which you can buy ready-made and simply dilute with water in the required proportions, or prepare the mixture yourself and spend less money.

How much will it cost to build a bathhouse made of M100 ordinary brick?

Building material	Description	Price
	Width 120 mm, height 65 mm, length 250 mm.	From 6.20 rub. for 1 piece.
	Has the same dimensions as a regular one. Used for laying those walls that are exposed to direct heat. For example, a base for a stove and a protective screen are laid out of fireclay bricks.	From 41 rub. for 1 piece.
	River sand for preparing masonry mixture or concrete mortar for pouring the foundation	From 68 rubles for 30 kg
	The purpose is the same as that of sand. Crushed stone fraction 5-20 mm.	From 86 rub. for 30 kg
	M400	From 195 rub. for 50 kg

As an example of calculating the cost of masonry, let’s take a single brick and laying it in one brick (the wall thickness will be 25 cm). Using the table data we get:

• taking into account mortar joints per 1 sq. m of masonry requires 102 bricks;
• 102 bricks x 6.20 rub. = 632.4 rub.

Brick prices

Typically, bricks are purchased with a margin of up to 15%, taking into account possible defects. And to the cost of laying 1 square meter of wall you need to add the cost of the mortar. Don’t forget that you may need a concrete mixer, joint compound, a set of mason’s tools, etc.

Foam blocks and gas blocks are materials that are increasingly used for the construction of baths. Their main advantage is the high speed of construction. The disadvantages are similar to bricks.

The blocks are laid with reinforced rows, fixation is carried out with special glue or cement-sand mortar.

To build a bathhouse, blocks measuring 200 x 300 x 600 mm are often used. One such block costs from 93 rubles. For internal partitions blocks of smaller thickness are suitable - 100 or 120 mm and cost from 50 rubles per 1 piece.

Number of blocks in 1 sq. m the following:

• with a wall thickness of 20 cm, there will be 5.5 blocks in one square meter of wall (5.5 x 93 = 511 rubles);
• with a wall thickness of 30 cm, there will be 8.33 blocks in one square meter of wall (8.33 x 93 = 774.69 rubles).

We conclude: for the construction of a budget bathhouse, it is preferable to use not brick, but blocks 200 x 300 x 600 mm, construction should be carried out with a wall thickness of 20 cm. You need to take into account the cost of glue for the blocks (from 155 rubles for 30 kg, consumption is approximately 1.2- 1.4 kg per 1 sq. m of masonry) and do not forget that blocks are purchased with a reserve.

Important! In an effort to save money, you should not sacrifice the reliability and durability of the bathhouse. You can always buy, for example, a used brick for pennies, but there is no guarantee that in the next decade such a brick, and with it the walls of the bathhouse, will not begin to collapse.

A big plus of building a bathhouse from blocks is the high strength of the walls, which is achieved by reinforcing the rows. Provided the reinforcement is done correctly, the walls will not crack. Even when building a budget bathhouse, you should not neglect the safety margin of the walls, so as not to start major repairs of the bathhouse in the next few years.

Prices for foam blocks

foam block

Construction of a bathhouse made of aerated concrete with a brick base

We will consider the process of building a bathhouse with dimensions of 6x5 m. This area is enough to arrange three main rooms: a relaxation room or dressing room, a shower room, and a steam room. If the free space on the site does not allow the construction of a 6x5 m bathhouse, you can reduce the dimensions to 4x4 m, and divide the internal space into a dressing room and a steam room, without a shower or other amenities.

So, let's begin. Inspect your plot of land and prepare the site for construction. It is necessary to remove debris, uproot stumps, remove the top layer of soil with grass growing on it, level and compact the area.

You need to prepare a bathhouse design in advance with the order of the masonry. Using the drawings it is easier to calculate the amount of building materials and carry out construction.

Mark the area, dig trenches, and pour a shallow strip foundation. Don't forget about the products. You can read more about pouring technology.

It is important to especially carefully level the upper surface of the foundation during the pouring process. If, however, the base has horizontal deviations, it is necessary to level everything with cement-sand mortar.

Step 1. We lay it on the foundation strip waterproofing material, for example, strips of roofing felt.

Prices for roofing material

roofing felt

Step 2. Mix cement-sand mortar for brick laying. To prepare the solution we use the following proportions:

• cement M400 – 1 bucket;
• sifted river sand - 2 buckets;
• dishwashing detergent or any similar - from 50 to 100 ml.

Important! We recommend that you first add water and detergent to the concrete mixer or solution container, then add cement and sand, stirring constantly. Consistency ready solution it will resemble thick sour cream, and if you run your finger over the mixture, a clear, non-blurring trace will remain. Kneading should be carried out for 3 to 5 minutes.

We transfer the finished solution into buckets and transport it to the construction site.

Step 3. Let's start laying brick plinth. We will work from the corners of the bathhouse.

Apply the mortar to the brick with a trowel. We lay the brick on the corner of the foundation (along the outer edge). Place a bubble level on the brick and, if necessary, tap the brick with the handle of a trowel. We repeat the procedure at the next corner of the bathhouse foundation.

It is important that the bricks laid at the corners are at the same level. To check, we tighten the mooring thread and additionally check the position of the bricks with a water level. Place the second brick at each corner perpendicular to the first.

We lay the plinth “in one and a half bricks”. With standard brick sizes, the total width of the plinth will be 38 cm. This width is made up of one brick length (25 cm) and one brick width (12 cm), 1 cm is the connecting mortar seam.

Place the first outer row with a spoon facing outwards. We lay the bricks on the mortar previously applied with a trowel, pressing it into the mortar and moving it slightly back and forth. We leave a gap between adjacent bricks, into which we add mortar with a trowel. We immediately remove the excess solution with a trowel. We knock the bricks so that they are all in the same plane (the reference point is a stretched mooring thread). As a result, if you look at the base from the “street” side, you will see a row laid “in half a brick.”

We lay the inner row with a poke towards the future premises of the bathhouse. Next, we carry out the laying according to the order scheme, observing the bandaging of the seams.

We lay out 2 rows of bricks and move on to arranging the floor covering.

Step 4. To arrange the floor covering, you need to prepare the beams.

The beams must be fixed in the “sockets” of the plinth to a depth of 10 cm. We measure the width of the interior, add 20 cm, and get the length of the beams. The section of beams can be selected using the table.

*Section is indicated in millimeters. The beams are laid on edge. Maximum load for overlap 400 kg/m 3.

We cut the roofing felt into rectangular pieces 15 cm wide. We wrap the ends of the beams with roofing felt and fix it with a construction stapler.

We lay the beams on their ends, maintaining an equal distance between them.

We continue with bricklaying.

We lay out two more rows, observing the dressing. We also lay brick between the beams, sawing it with a grinder if necessary.

The height of a single row brick is 65 mm. Accordingly, two rows of bricks plus two mortar joints will be 150 mm high, the top surface of the beams will be flush with the surface of the brickwork.

Laying the fourth row

Recommendation! If the brick is pre-moistened with water (without soaking it), it will not absorb moisture from the mortar. The masonry will be very strong. The recommendation is relevant for work in hot weather.

Step 5. The basement is built, we move on to laying walls from aerated concrete blocks.

We lay a layer of roofing felt on the brick over the entire surface of the external and internal walls of the bathhouse.

We begin work again from the corners of the bathhouse. Mix the solution and place a layer on top of the roofing material.

Level the solution with a notched trowel. Installing the first block.

Similarly, we install the second block on the adjacent corner of the plinth. The most difficult thing is to bring both blocks to zero. We check using a hydraulic level, bubble level, if available. laser level, it's better to use it.

There is no hurry here. If necessary, you can remove the block, remove excess solution, or add more solution. The horizontal deviation should not be more than two millimeters.

We lay out the first row of blocks on the solution. If the distance between adjacent blocks does not allow installing a whole block, you need to use a hacksaw with small teeth to make a cut. After cutting, sweep away the dust with a brush.

When laying out the blocks, do not forget about the doorway.

Step 6. Let's move on to reinforcing the first row of blocks.

We prepare a set of tools for work in advance.

Tool	Approximate minimum cost, rub.
	450
	490
	500
	600
	365

*Used tools will cost less.

For reinforcement we use corrugated rods of class A3. The diameter of the rods is 8 mm. It is not advisable to take reinforcement of greater thickness.

Using a hand wall chaser, we cut two grooves for the reinforcement. For convenience, you can draw two parallel straight lines using a ruler on the surface of the blocks in advance with a pencil. At the corners of the bathhouse and at the junction of the internal partitions with the external walls, the grooves are round and parallel.

We clean the surface of the groove from dust using a damp brush.

We take the reinforcement and put it in grooves. We bend the reinforcement at the corners. Please ensure that the reinforcement bars are not connected at the corners. The rods can be connected at a distance of more than 30 cm from the corners.

We remove the reinforcement from the grooves and place it on the surface of the blocks.

Mix the aerated concrete adhesive ( approximate cost for 25 kg – 220 rubles).

Pour water into the bucket, then add the dry mixture from the bag. Mix the glue with a drill with a mixer attachment at low speeds (up to 800 rpm). The consistency of the glue should be similar to thick sour cream. The glue should not spread.

Fill the grooves with glue. Spread the glue with a spatula. We embed the reinforcement in the glue. If necessary, add more glue on top of the laid reinforcement so that the surface of the gas blocks is smooth, without grooves or bumps.

Step 7 We proceed to laying the second row of gas blocks. We start traditionally from the corner. Let's start applying glue under the block.

Important! Do not forget about the need to lay blocks with a dressing similar to brickwork"half a brick." The displacement of the upper block relative to the lower one should be from 15 cm to ½ the length of the block.

It is most convenient to apply glue with a ladle (trowel). The working width of the trowel must correspond to the width of the block. This will allow you to apply the glue quickly and accurately. But sometimes builders use homemade devices, for example, as in the photo. The main thing is to evenly apply a thin layer of glue over the entire surface of the blocks.

On a note! The applied layer of glue can be continuous, but it is the use of notched spatulas or special ladles that can reduce glue consumption.

We continue laying the blocks of the second row. We check the correct installation of the blocks in two planes - vertical and horizontal. If necessary, grind the surfaces of the blocks.

To make tying the blocks easier, you can start laying with half a block. We cut the gas block with a hacksaw. Sweep away the dust with a brush. Apply a thick layer of glue (2-3 mm) to the ends of the block. Installing the block.

We continue laying the blocks of the second row. We check the correct installation of the blocks in two planes - vertical and horizontal.

Important! If the bathhouse is more than 6 meters high, it is recommended to reinforce every fourth row of masonry.

Prices for cement M600

cement M600

Step 8 We move on to laying lintels and their reinforcement.

There should be reinforced lintels above the window and door openings. The easiest way is to use U-blocks, but this comes with additional costs.

To save money, you can manually make recesses in ordinary gas blocks. To do this, we make two cuts along the width of the recess on the block with a hacksaw, then remove the excess material using a chisel and a hammer.

To lay the blocks, we make formwork from boards. The blocks will rest on the top of the formwork. We fix the horizontal board with supports and fasten the elements with ordinary self-tapping screws.

The reinforced belt should protrude beyond the window and door opening by at least 15 cm. We install the blocks on the formwork. We fasten the ends of the blocks with glue.

Inside the blocks, closer to the outer edge, we lay pieces of EPS (Penoplex) 50 mm thick.

Let's start knitting the armored belt. For tying we use plastic clamps (ties). The reinforced belt consists of four long parallel rods, and every 0.5 m there are vertical sections of reinforcement. In cross-section, the armored belt should form a square.

Important! The armored belt cannot be laid directly on aerated concrete. Plastic clips must be used. Without clamps, the reinforced frame will not take the correct position and will not be filled with concrete mixture on all sides.

We install the frame with clamps and fill it with concrete flush with the edges of the gas blocks. We compact the concrete mixture by piercing it with a rod or wooden strip. Level the surface as thoroughly as possible.

Now you need to take a technical break and wait until the solution sets. This will take from 10 days to two weeks.

Step 9 So, the concrete in the lintels has hardened, we continue construction. If the height of the walls is insufficient, we lay out another row of blocks. In our case, this row will be the final one on the first floor and at the same time will serve as an armored belt.

We make the armored belt on the floor using the same technology as the lintels, but with one difference. Now the armored belt will be poured along the entire perimeter of the external and internal walls. For the sake of economy, we do not use U-blocks, but cut and hollow out solid wall blocks.

1. We lay the entire row of prepared blocks on the glue.

   

   

   

2. We install polystyrene foam boards. We cut them carefully, using a ruler, so that the edges are even.
3. We knit a reinforced frame.

   

   

4. We install the clamps and lay the frame inside the blocks.

   

   We pour concrete.

5. Level the surface.
6. We are waiting for the concrete to harden.

Step 10 The first floor cannot immediately end with a roof, of course. Let's move on to arrangement interfloor covering. It will be wooden. We place antiseptic beams with waterproofed ends on an armored belt. A similar technology was discussed above when the base was built.

But since now we are not laying brick, but gas block, we make cuts in each block under the ends of the beams.

It is important to accurately measure the distances between the beams and carefully select even rectangular niches in the blocks with a chisel and hammer. We lay the blocks in a standard manner, observing the dressing, applying glue to the previous row and the ends of the blocks.

Important! In our construction example, the bathhouse will have a small balcony. Therefore, several beams extend beyond the bathhouse wall.

Step 11 Laying the subfloor. We lay the edged board on top of the beams. We fix the boards to the beams with self-tapping screws right through the board. If the board is 50 mm thick, take hardware 8 cm long.

We leave a rectangular opening in the floor for access to the attic.

In the future, when the floors are ready, windows and doors are installed, decorative finishing will be done, a foil vapor barrier will be stretched in the steam room, clapboard or a simple board made of hardwood will be nailed.

Step 12 Usually, a one-story bathhouse is enough for owners to spend their time comfortably. The space under the roof is often used to store fragrant bath brooms.

Sometimes in the bathhouse on the second floor they put a small sofa and a table, setting up a relaxation room. Our project provides just such a room on the second floor. After the bath procedures, it will be pleasant to relax, cool down, go out to the small balcony. A window on the second floor will increase the efficiency of ventilation and reduce the cost of building materials.

The roof has a complex configuration. On both sides there are two trapezoidal pediments, tightly laid with gas block. And if you look from the side of one of these gables, the perpendicularly located roof slopes on both sides are clearly visible.

Advice! If you are not confident in your abilities, limit yourself to building a simple pitched or gable roof.

The main stages of work during the construction of the second floor and roof:

• installation of vertical racks made of timber;
• installation of horizontal piping;

  

• laying floor beams on top of the frame;

  

  

  

• installation of extreme roof trusses along the gables;

  

  Floor beams and rafters

  

  

• installation of intermediate trusses;

  

• masonry of gables from blocks;

  

  

• installation of vapor barrier on the room side;

  

• lining the ceiling and slopes from the inside with boards;

  

• styling mineral wool in two layers;

  

• installation of wind protection on top of the insulation;

  

• installation of counter-lattice under metal tiles;

  

  

• assembly of a gable canopy over the balcony, installation windproof membrane and counter-lattens on the canopy slopes;

  

• installation of metal tiles and additional elements.

  

  

  

  

You can watch the video to see how a roof of complex configuration is erected.

Prices for gas blocks

gas blocks

Video – Roof construction

Video - Construction of gables

Video - Rafters, armored belt

Video - Completion of installation of rafters, laying aerated concrete walls of the second floor

Video - Overlapping, vapor barrier

Video - Roof insulation

Video - Counter-lattice for metal tiles

Video - Washed down the ends of the counter-lattice, filing the ceiling

Video - Laying metal tiles

Shed roof for a budget bathhouse

Step 1. We attach the Mauerlat on top of the armored belt. It is a board fixed with dowels (wood grouse).

We drill holes in the boards and then in the blocks. We hammer in the dowels. We lay a layer of roofing felt as waterproofing. We lay the Mauerlat board and screw in the screws (capcaillie).

Step 2. We install vertical posts and horizontal strapping beams. The height of the front part is 130 cm, from the rear of the bathhouse – 30 cm. The roof slope will be 18 degrees.

We fix the beams with metal perforated corners and wood screws.

On a note! To prevent the racks from loosening due to gusts of wind, we temporarily fasten the boards connecting the front and rear frames with self-tapping screws.

Step 3. We lay the rafters (we place straight boards on edge and fasten them with perforated corners to the horizontal beams of the front and rear frames).

Step 4. We install counter-lattice boards perpendicular to the rafters.

Step 5. We fasten the corrugated sheets. We cut off the counter-battens sticking out at the edges of the boards.

Step 6. We strengthen the frame with jibs. On the sides we install posts made of timber and one additional jib to later attach the sheathing.

Step 7 We hem the rough ceiling.

Step 8 We cover the frame with plywood. We treat plywood sheets with protective impregnation.

Step 9 We foam the gaps between the blocks and plywood.

Step 10 If decorative finishing of the facade is not yet planned, we attach protective canopies made of tin.

Plaster can be used as a decorative finish for the facade of a bathhouse. It is necessary to select a mixture for cellular concrete. Conventional cement-sand mixtures are not suitable for this purpose. Aerated concrete quickly absorbs all the moisture from the plaster, the decorative coating cracks and falls off.

To plaster the facade, you need to clean it with a grater from any remaining glue and sand off any unevenness, if any. After sanding, you need to apply the “Aerated Concrete-Contact” primer to the walls. Plaster mortar applied with a wide spatula over a fiberglass mesh secured with self-tapping screws. After the plaster has dried, you can paint the facade or simply apply a water repellent.

Not everyone has the desire or ability to invest a lot of money in the construction of a bathhouse. And in most parts of our country, sometimes it’s simply necessary to warm up. The only way out is to build a sauna inexpensively, with your own hands. Eat sufficient quantity building materials and technologies that can be called budget.

If we talk about the construction of full-fledged, albeit small, but separate standing baths, then frame and monolithic are considered the most budget-friendly technologies. Cheap baths are often made on a wooden frame, lined with plywood, OSB, boards - whoever has what. Insulation is placed inside between the two skins.

One of the options for a frame structure is with board cladding

At monolithic construction The most popular for the construction of baths is arbolite - a mixture of cement and sawdust. Sawdust can be completely free or cost very little. Little cement is required in wood concrete, so this type of construction is unlikely to hit your pocket hard. Removable formwork is placed around the perimeter of the building, the mixture is loaded into it, and compacted. The next batch is mixed. It's that simple. The disadvantage of this material is considered to be flammability, but wooden and frame baths are also flammable. So this is not an argument.

Sawdust concrete or wood concrete - warm, natural material which consists of sawdust, sand, cement and water

Polystyrene concrete (granulated foam plastic mixed with cement and water) is not much more expensive, but not everyone likes the use of “chemistry” - foam plastic - in the construction of a bathhouse. However, this material itself makes it possible to obtain a cheap and lightweight building, which, if properly finished, will only delight the owners.

All three technologies provide a combination of low price and good thermal characteristics, that is, heating such buildings requires little fuel, which in baths is the main indicator of efficiency.

There are regions in which forest is still the most cheap material. It might be cheaper to put them in chopped bath. From round timber or from timber - this is optional. The advantage of this solution is that it is a natural material (although it must be impregnated with chemicals to preserve its appearance and protect against diseases and insects). But chopped baths have their drawbacks - you can start steaming no earlier than a year after the walls are built and the roof is installed. We must wait until the main shrinkage has passed and only then begin insulation and finishing work. The second disadvantage is that the protective coating must be regularly updated, otherwise the building will become gray and unsightly. But on their own wooden baths very good special atmosphere.

Inexpensive foundations

Inexpensive wall construction technology is not everything. Sometimes the construction of the foundation takes almost half of the funds required for the construction of the building as a whole. The technologies listed above are good because lightweight foundations can be made for them. In some places a columnar one is sufficient, in others a pile or pile-grillage structure is sufficient. Any of the walls listed above can coexist quite normally with them, leveling out their shortcomings (possible uneven shrinkage of different support points).

The foundations listed above may not be implemented on all soils. Sometimes a shallow or normal strip foundation may be required, and on particularly heaving or unstable soils a monolithic slab may be required. On such bases, to the wall construction technologies listed above, you can add more building blocks - foam concrete, cinder block, expanded clay concrete. All of them have their own characteristics (mainly, careful protection from high humidity is required), but the construction technology is also inexpensive, although more solid foundations are required.

Compact or temporary

If at your dacha you want to build a mini-bathhouse, a very small cabin in size, then you need to take a closer look at the construction technology or. If desired, even an ordinary construction trailer, barn or shed can be turned into a more or less normal steam room. It is only important to insulate it well and install the correct stove. Everything else is not so important.

Cheap frame bathhouse step by step - photo report

The initial data is as follows: the bathhouse is no more than 4*5 meters in size, the budget is small - no more than $200-300 per month. From the initial data - clay heaving soil, 4 meters from the fence - a cliff. Having brought all this together, it was decided to build frame bath on a columnar foundation.

The bathhouse itself turned out to be 5*3 m, plus long side terrace 1 meter wide. It was decided to make the pillars for the bathhouse from asbestos-cement pipes 34 cm in diameter, for the terrace from 15 cm. In the center of the plan, 4 more additional pillars are marked - this is the foundation for a brick oven.

We dig below the freezing depth - for this region 140 cm. By the way, we cut the pipes by 20 cm more - the total length is 160 cm, so that the bathhouse is 20 cm above the ground.

A frame made of reinforcement 12 mm in diameter is installed inside each column. 4 rods are tied, the release from the post is 10-15 cm, so that you can then safely weld the harness.

The concrete was ordered ready-made, grade M250. Formwork was placed along the perimeter between the pillars and a boot was immediately poured, which will close the gap between the bathhouse floor and the ground.

A week later, the concrete had gained enough strength and work continued. A frame was welded from a 70*70 mm corner with a wall thickness of 6 mm (the corner was on the farm). To connect the pillars and metal, we weld the fittings to the corner shelves.

It must be said right away that this foundation is redundant in terms of bearing capacity. It is possible to build a two-story heavy building on it, rather than a light one-story frame. But, since they were doing it “for themselves,” and there was also a clay cliff nearby, it was decided to play it safe.

It was decided to have heated floors in the washing room and rest room - sometimes you just need to wash yourself without steaming, but doing it on a heated floor is much more pleasant.

Therefore, insulation (expanded polystyrene) is laid on the subfloor, waterproofing and reinforcing mesh are placed on top, pipes are attached to it, and the whole thing is filled with concrete. Naturally, the heated floor was not poured under the stove.

Another week later, when the concrete had gained enough strength (they did not cover it, but watered it regularly), work began on constructing the frame. For the racks we used timber 150*150 mm, spacers - board 50*150 mm (again a significant margin of strength, but this was out of a desire to build a good bathhouse).

The bathhouse was built mainly alone, so a sequential installation method was chosen - the racks are placed first in the corners, then in those places where doors and windows will be installed or adjoining partitions. If as a result there are gaps of more than 1 meter somewhere, additional racks are installed. But in this case, since all the racks were made of very powerful timber, intermediate ones were not installed, and the rigidity of the structure was added by bevels.

Next, so that when laying the floor it would not drip on your head, we began making the roof of the bathhouse. It is made at the most budget level - single-slope, with a minimum rise of 15°. To ensure this slope, the beams for the racks were made in advance of different lengths.

A board is nailed to the posts at the same level top harness, are attached to it ceiling beams. Rafters with the required slope are attached to the same racks. A continuous sheathing is placed on top under the roofing material.

Rafter system a pitched roof is very easy to manufacture

After the roof was ready, the walls were sheathed with OSB, and then the floor was laid on the remaining part of the bathhouse.

The next stage is laying the stove. This is a long process - it took a whole month. The stove is folded with a closed heater. In the chimney formation area there is a built-in cast iron box into which stones are placed. There is a door leading into the heater, which opens into the steam room.

The stove also has a built-in register that heats water for the heated floor (outlets on the side of the stove). It is not always necessary to heat the floor, therefore there are two operating modes - summer without floor heating, and winter, with “turning on” the heating of the register. Transfer from one mode to another using a valve.

Next comes the finishing work, and it will be different in different cases. The only thing that will be more or less common is insulation. Mineral wool was used to insulate the walls and ceiling. The thickness of the layer on the walls in “cold rooms” is 100 mm, in the steam room and on the ceiling – 150 mm. The steam room is lined with foil on kraft paper on top of the insulation.

After the insulation, a vapor barrier is attached. In the rest room, the walls are covered with OSB, with cork glued on top. In the shower room, tiles are glued to OSB, the “dry” part is covered with clapboard (horizontally).

Washing area - dry area and shower

The steam room is filled first with lathing for clapboard cladding, then with wide clapboard. The steam room turned out to be quite small, and the stove also takes up a lot of space. Two can be accommodated comfortably, three are more difficult, but also quite comfortable. To regulate the number of seats in the steam room, the shelves were made retractable.

The entire construction process took two years, the work was carried out mainly “in one hand.” The assistants were present only at the stage of pouring the foundation, and then at the stage of installing the frame - to set up the racks (they must stand 100% vertically).

Video example of building a bathhouse from monolithic wood concrete

Inexpensive 3*6 sauna with your own hands - step by step photos

The log for the future bathhouse was prepared and sanded in advance, covered from the rains and dried for about 5 months. The structure will consist of two halves: the steam room and sink are made of logs, and the relaxation room is built on a wooden frame. It turns out two rooms 3*3 m. Construction began with markings: 6*3 in plan.

The soil is sandy, so we make it shallow. We dig a trench 60 cm deep and place the formwork. The width of the tape was taken with a good margin - 35 cm.

We make doors from a frame, on which OSB is stuffed on one side and lining on the other. About how to do

We leave it to winter in this form - the log house should “sit down”. In the spring, we insulate the frame part of the building and cover the insulation with a vapor barrier membrane.

Let's start finishing the ceiling. It was decided to do a budget ceiling lining - put short boards between the rafters. They can be bought very inexpensively. We process it and cut it to the required length. We fill the rafters with support bars, to which we attach boards cut to size from below.

The outside of the Yuan was covered with siding - both the frame part and the frame. It turned out far from perfect. And there is a ventilation gap between the siding and the wall, so there are no problems with moisture removal.

Budget sauna do it yourself - another inexpensive solution - siding

We started covering interior spaces. We fill the sheathing and the lining on it.

The inside of the rest room was lined with clapboard

Let's move on to finishing the steam room. First we covered everything with foil. The room itself will consist of a steam room area, separated glass door, and “washing” zones. IN washing wall We will cover it with moisture-resistant plasterboard, onto which we will then glue tiles, and in the steam room with clapboard.

We cover the steam room area with clapboard and

We cut an opening in the wall for installing the stove. She will drown herself from the rest room, and her “body” will be in the steam room. We lay a brick base under the stove and install it. We line the fuel outlet with fireclay bricks.

We tile the sink.

That’s it for the main work, all that’s left are the decor and all sorts of things - buckets, ladles, thermometers and the rest of the “stuffing.”

Almost every owner land plot, sooner or later, thinks about building a bathhouse. After all, the bathhouse is not just a room for washing, but also important element country holiday. The construction of a turnkey bathhouse can be ordered from professionals for a tidy sum, or you can try to build a bathhouse with your own hands.

After reading this article, you will be able to choose a project, find out the sequence of the construction process, get acquainted with boiler models and find the best bathhouse option for your dacha.

Before starting construction, it is necessary to develop a bathhouse design. To do this, you don’t have to contact an architect; you can develop a simple project yourself, especially since there are now many computer programs for design.
Think about what size bathhouse will be optimal for your family. What rooms will be located inside the bathhouse? What materials to make the foundation, walls and roof from, do not forget also about finishing the bathhouse. An important point in design is the placement of the boiler and the method of firing it.
Below you can see popular projects baths:

• • The design of the bathhouse is 4x4 meters in size.

• • Bathhouse design - 4x6 meters.

• • Bathhouse design - 5x6 meters.

• • Bathhouse design – 6x3 meters.

• Bathhouse design - 3x3 meters.

Once you have decided on the size and materials for the bath, you need to create a cost estimate.

Foundation

To build a bathhouse, several types of foundations are used. Depending on the weight of the walls and soil characteristics, the following types of foundations are made:

• Slab foundation.
• Columnar foundation for light walls.
• Pile foundation.
• Concrete strip foundation.

As practice has shown, the most reliable foundation for almost all types of soil, there is a concrete strip foundation reinforced with reinforcement.

To make a reinforced strip foundation for a bathhouse you will need:

• Cement.
• Sand.
• Gravel.
• Fittings.
• Formwork.
• Ruberoid.
• Wire.
• Shovels.
• Concrete mixer.
• Tourniquet.
• Stakes.
• Tools (pliers, hammer, tape measure and others).

In the location chosen for building the bathhouse, mark a trench for the future foundation. To mark, use a tourniquet stretched between the pegs. The width of the trenches is based on the weight of the wall material. For a one-story bathhouse made of wood or brick, it is enough to make a trench 30-40 centimeters wide. After installing the markup, do the following:

1. Using the markings as a guide, dig a trench 50-80 centimeters deep.
2. Compact the bottom of the trench and fill it with water to shrink the soil.
3. Cover the bottom of the trenches with roofing felt for waterproofing.
4. Fill the trench with gravel to a third of its depth.
5. Install formwork along the edges of the trench.
6. Make a frame reinforcing the foundation from reinforcement bars tied together with wire.
7. Install the reinforcement cage into the formwork.
8. Using a concrete mixer, make a cement mortar in the proportion: one part cement to one part sand and two parts gravel.
9. Pour cement into the formwork, being careful not to allow any air voids.
10. After the concrete has dried, remove the formwork.

The foundation for the bathhouse is ready!

Walls

The following materials are used for the construction of walls:

• Wooden beam.
• Logs.
• Boards.
• Brick.
• Blocks from various building mixtures(cinder block, aerated concrete, wood concrete, and so on).

Since the construction of a bathhouse from logs or bricks is already quite widely described on the Internet, let's consider the option of building a frame bathhouse from timber 15x15 and 5x10 centimeters and boards with a section of 2x15 centimeters:

1. 1. Make bottom trim, to do this, take bars with a cross-section of 15x15 cm and install them on the foundation, connecting them together with special metal plates and corners. There is another way to connect bars, by cutting out tenons and grooves at their ends and then fastening them with screws or nails. When making the strapping, do not forget to place waterproofing under the bars.
   2. Install vertical posts from 5x10 cm timber. The distance between the posts is usually 50-60 centimeters. First of all, determine the position of the window and door openings and install the racks framing them.
   3. While working, secure the already installed racks with temporary strips so that they do not warp.
   4. Make the top trim, securing it to the ends of the vertical posts.
   5. When making the final fastening of the top trim, carefully monitor the position of the vertical posts, checking their evenness with a level.
   6. Be sure to strengthen everything corner connections diagonal posts, this will help avoid warping of the frame.
   7. Make the ceiling sheathing.
   8. After making the frame, make outer skin walls of the bathhouse with a board with a section of 2x15 centimeters. If you do not want gaps to appear between the boards, then make the sheathing - “overlap”, laying the bottom edge of the board on a nailed board. In appearance, this method resembles finishing walls with siding.

1. Having sheathed the bathhouse from the outside, proceed to installing the insulation. Sheets of foam or mineral wool are installed along the vertical posts of the frame.
2. On top of the insulation, it is necessary to install a layer of vapor barrier, which is attached to the vertical posts using thin slats.
3. After installing the vapor barrier, line the interior of the bathhouse with clapboard or slats.
4. Insulate the ceiling by laying vapor barrier sheets on the inner lining, then insulation. Sheathe the ceiling from the outside with sheets of plywood.

Please note that the manufacture and insulation of the ceiling can also be done after the roof has been installed.

Roof

There are three types of roof for a bathhouse:

• Single-pitch.
• Gable.
• Complex - consisting of four or more slopes.

Usually the first two options are used for a bath. Let's look at the option of a gable roof covered with metal tiles:


The manufacture of the roof begins with the installation of the Mauerlat. In the case of frame walls, the role of the Mauerlat is performed by the upper outline.

1. Place the uprights on the bench.
2. Connect the posts using purlins and ties.
3. Install the rafter legs by attaching them to the mauerlat, purlin and connecting the upper ends together. The distance between the rafters should be 50-60 centimeters.
4. Install sheets of metal tiles.
5. Sheath the gables wooden slats or sheet iron.

For a more visual understanding of the roof fastening, here is a drawing:


All dimensions of roof elements are given in the list:


Please note that the less you slope the roof, the more snow load it will bear in winter. Also, a small roof slope can lead to poor water drainage and leaks.

Floors

The design of the floor depends on the type of room. In the recreation room, ordinary wooden floors are made. In the wash and steam rooms, the floors are made of two levels:

• The first level is made of concrete and has a slope towards the drain hole.
• The second level is a finished floor made of boards with gaps for draining water.

If you want to make a floor of porcelain stoneware or tiles, then they are simply laid on the first level at a slope towards the drain hole.


In order to make a concrete floor and drain in a bathhouse you need:

1. In the center of the steam room and washing room, install plastic pipes 5-10 centimeters in diameter with a bell at the end. The pipes should go out through the foundation to the street and connect to the sewer system.
2. Lay down a layer of waterproofing material.
3. Spread a layer of gravel 10-15 centimeters thick over the entire area of ​​the rooms.
4. Make a cement mortar and pour the floor with a slope towards the hole installed on the drain pipe.
5. Install a screen over the drain hole to prevent debris from entering the drain.

At the second stage, wooden floors are made:

1. Install wooden logs in all rooms of the bathhouse. Make the distance between the logs 30-40 centimeters. As logs you can use bars with a section of 3x5 cm or 4x6 cm.
2. Nail boards with a section of 2x15 cm or 5x20 cm onto the logs.
3. In rooms where water is expected to drain, leave gaps of 0.5-1 cm between the boards.

Do not forget, before installing wooden floors, to treat all parts with wood impregnation. When making floors, keep in mind that they should be higher, or at the level of the upper edge of the foundation.

Boiler

The model of the boiler for the bath will largely depend on your financial opportunities and the fuel you will use for heating. If you know how to use welding, then you can make a simple boiler yourself from thick sheet iron. If you prefer more advanced colas with gas or electricity, you can purchase them from specialized companies.

The boiler in the steam room is installed in such a way that the combustion chamber is loaded with fuel either from the street or from the rest room (dressing room). The boiler itself, for fire safety purposes, is located 10-15 centimeters from the nearest walls. The walls are as high as the boiler and covered with iron sheets. A good solution would be to line the boiler with bricks, thereby reducing its cooling time and protecting the walls from fire.

When installing a chimney for a boiler, pay special attention to the place where the pipe comes into contact with the ceiling. The opening for the chimney should be insulated with refractory material. Also, pay attention to the place where the chimney pipe exits through the roof. This area is usually prone to leakage, so it should be sealed thoroughly. Below are the options for boilers for baths:

• • Homemade boiler made from metal sheets.

• • A gas boiler.

• • Electric boiler.

• Solid fuel boiler.

Arrangement of the bathhouse

After the bathhouse is built, it is necessary to equip it:

• • Connect all available communications to the bathhouse - electricity, sewerage, water supply.

• • Place a sink, shower stall, light sources, and furniture for relaxation inside.

• • Decorate the walls of the steam room with shaped slats and make stepped shelves.

• Buy wooden tubs, buckets, ladles and brooms.

After arrangement, you can safely invite guests to take a steam bath in your personal bathhouse!

You can also watch the instructions for assembling a mini-sauna for a summer house without a foundation in the video:

Options for beautiful and unusual baths

In addition to traditional materials and design for a bath, there are many alternative solutions. Below we present photographs of the most unusual baths:

• Mobile sauna made of clapboard, built on a car trailer.

• Bath in a huge wine barrel.

• Bathhouse made of plastic bottles.

• The dugout bathhouse was built directly into the ground.

• A sauna housed in an iron container.

• Forest sauna made of untreated logs.

• A beautiful bathhouse made from a gun carriage.

• Bathhouse from not edged boards.

At the end of the article, I would like to remind you that heating a bath is associated with fire and high temperatures. Therefore, when building a bathhouse from bricks, logs, cinder blocks or boards, pay great attention to fire safety. This warning also applies to electrical wiring, since the rooms inside the bathhouse have high humidity air and the risk of a short circuit due to condensation is very high.


We hope that reading our article will encourage you to self-construction baths!

A small do-it-yourself sauna is a great option when the area near the house or in the yard of the dacha is limited. In addition, with this solution you can significantly save your budget, but as a result you will get a full-fledged vacation spot, which will not only relieve stress after a hard day, but improve your health and have a pleasant time with family and friends.

Examples of projects

IN ideal The bathhouse includes 4 rooms in its design:

• dressing room;
• restroom;
• washing;

You can expand the functionality of some rooms by combining them with each other. At the same time, the comfort of your stay is not lost. Overall size the structure will largely depend on how many people will be inside at the same time.

• 1.20 m×2.50 m. Very compact solution. In this case, the bathhouse consists of only two rooms: a steam room and a dressing room. The dimensions of the first are 1.20 m×1.50 m, the second - 1 m×1.20 m. There is no rest room, but in the dressing room you can easily change clothes. The washing room can be combined with a steam room. This size will be enough for one person.
• 2.50 m×2.50 m. In terms of the number of rooms - the same as the first option. The size of the steam room is 2.50 m×1.50 m, the dressing room is 1 m×2.50 m. At the same time, it will be possible to organize additional space for storing firewood. In such conditions, two people can comfortably fit.
• 3 m×3 m. This option can be planned in different ways. If you want the steam room to accommodate three people, then it can be made 3 mx1.50 m in size, the washing room can be made separate by placing a shower stall there. The size of this room will be 1 m × 1.50 m. There is also a dressing room of 2 m × 1.5 m. You can combine a washing room and a steam room, then there will be space that can be used as a relaxation room, which will also serve as a dressing room.
• 4 m×3 m. In this case, you can separate 4 m2 for the steam room (for example, 2 m × 2 m). The washing room will occupy 1 m × 1.50 m, leaving 2 m × 3 m for the rest room. In such conditions, four people can comfortably fit. They will be able to be in the steam room at the same time, and also enjoy communication in the waiting room.
• 4 m×4 m. In such an area you can already turn around well. The steam room can be left measuring 2 m × 2 m. A separate dressing room can be made measuring 2 m × 1.50 m. The rest room in this case is 4 m × 2 m (one side will be 2.50 m). The washing room can be combined with a rest room; for this, an electric boiler and a shower stall are installed. They can be placed in one of the corners of the room, which does not take up much space.

These are indicative examples. You can easily vary the size of the premises within accessible limits. You may want to reduce the steam room because... there is no need for 4 people to be there at the same time. At the same time, it will be possible to expand the space of the rest room.

Note! All measurements are given in ideal values ​​without taking into account the thickness of the partitions. This was done for greater clarity. If the bathhouse is adjacent to the house, it can be made in the form of one steam room. In this case, the bathroom will act as a washing room, and the rest of the area is available for relaxation.

Choosing material

Various materials can be used to build walls. Much will depend on the project you choose, as well as the amount of money planned. For example, you can use ordinary brick. You can read how to build a brick bathhouse. The following points will be positive:

• availability;
• ease of delivery;
• relative ease of construction;
• long service life (with proper care– up to 150 years);
• ease of maintenance;
• possibility of combination with the main structure;
• when using new brick there is no need for cladding;
• freedom to choose the form of construction.

TO negative aspects can be attributed:

• high cost of material;
• the need for good ventilation, because brick has poor vapor conductivity;
• lighting such a bathhouse takes more time than building made of wood;
• high costs for interior decoration.

Along with brick, foam block is often used. This is a more progressive material; it has properties characteristic only of it:

• light weight with large size;
• high laying speed;
• ease of adjustment of block shapes;
• good thermal insulation;
• relatively low price;
• excellent sound insulation;
• environmental friendliness;
• If you follow the recommendations, there will be little glue consumption.

There is also a fly in the ointment:

• uneven pores can be a problem when hanging furniture;
• Shrinkage may occur over several months;
• poor bending resistance.

The most favorite manufacturing method is a rounded log. A lot can be said about its advantages, here are just a few:

• high environmental friendliness;
• pleasant appearance;
• low heat capacity;
• no need for interior and exterior finishing;
• pleasant internal atmosphere.

The negative side is:

• unprofitable to use in small buildings;
• some complexity of construction;
• high cost of material;
• long shrinkage time.

One of the cheapest and fastest options is the construction of a frame structure. Minimal construction skills will be required for this method. The advantages are:

• no need for a massive foundation;
• availability of materials;
• relatively low cost compared to other options;
• ease of care;
• very fast heating of the steam room with good insulation;
• ease of laying communications;
• seismic resistance;
• no shrinkage.

One of the disadvantages is the need to organize good sound insulation. High level boominess – transmission of various vibrations, which can cause inconvenience. It is also important to ensure good ventilation so that moisture does not accumulate inside, which will lead to the development of fungus and mold.

Strip foundation

In the case where a really small bathhouse is planned, there is no point in sinking the foundation to the level of soil freezing. This will only increase the overall cost of the project. With proper manufacturing and waterproofing, you won’t have to worry about the walls being cold. This type of base will be relevant for any of listed options buildings

At the stage of laying the foundation, provision is made for the supply of necessary communications. This could be a water supply and sewer drain for washing water.

Note! If the soil in your area is known to be highly mobile, then a shallow foundation would be a bad option, as it can easily collapse under the pressure of the layers. In this case, it is better to evaluate the possibility of installing piles.

Pile foundation

There are several ways to build a foundation. Piles can be bored or driven. In the first case, a well is drilled, formwork is made, reinforcement rods are lowered and the entire space is filled with concrete. In the second option, ready-made concrete, wooden or metal posts with a pointed end are driven in immediately. Most suitable options For small bathhouse there will be screw ones. They consist of a metal base in the form of a pipe and blades that help immerse the supports into the ground. You can purchase them or make them yourself. If you chose the second option, then you need to act like this:

In each of the described options, separate supporting elements for the stove, especially if you plan to use a heater. This is very important, because its weight can be large, which can lead to damage to the floor and joists.

Note! Such a foundation will be an ideal solution for frame structures, log buildings, as well as small foam block baths. If the soil in the area where construction is planned is quite strong and rocky, then you can use something between pile and strip foundation– columnar. In this case, separate holes with a size of 50x50 cm are dug every meter to a level below freezing of the soil. Formwork and metal lathing are installed inside and mortar is poured.

Construction of brick walls

For a bathhouse, it is better to use red brick, which has undergone heat treatment and has a lower thermal capacity. To calculate the quantity required material, you need to calculate the area of ​​each wall. To do this, the width is multiplied by the length. Then you need to divide this number by the area of ​​one brick. The area of ​​the masonry joints can be neglected, because you will still need to make a reserve in case of battle or marriage.

The wall can be erected using several methods:

• in two bricks with external insulation.
• with air gaps, they are about 6 cm;
• with a layer of insulation between two rows of bricks.

Work begins with the construction of corners. This is an important process because... It is they who will subsequently ensure the correctness of the entire structure. To comply vertical level future walls, two are dug into the corners metal profiles 5x5 cm and a length equal to the height of the future walls. They are leveled and secured with jibs. A fishing line is stretched between them to the height of one row. After it is laid, the line is rearranged to the height of the next one. The thickness of the seam should be about 20-25 mm. It should be applied at a distance of no more than a meter so that it does not have time to dry. Additionally, the plane is checked using a bubble level. If the second and third types of masonry are chosen, then it is necessary to ensure a bandage between the two walls. This is achieved by laying two bricks transversely opposite each other at certain intervals. Also, each row should be offset by half a brick to ensure the overall interweaving of the entire plane.

A lintel must be installed over windows or doorways. Usually it is reinforced concrete. You can purchase it ready-made or pour it directly on site. It should extend beyond the openings by at least 25 cm. Supports are installed and a wooden board is mounted on them. Two rows of bricks are laid out on edge. Between them there are reinforcement rods, which should also extend 25 cm beyond the opening, and it is better to bend them to intertwine them with the existing masonry. Concrete is poured inside. After complete hardening (usually 10-12 days), the lower supports can be dismantled and the logs removed.

Walls made of foam blocks

The general installation principle will be the same as in the previous case. You should also start with the corners, which must be accurately and clearly set.

In the same way, guides are made from profiled pipes. But there are some nuances:

• In order to achieve the best adhesion, the base row is laid on cement mortar. It is better to make the ratio with sand 1:3. It is very important to maintain a horizontal plane so that all other rows also lie correctly.
• All other rows are fixed with special glue.
• The thickness of the adhesive layer should not exceed 5 mm. Only in this case will it be possible to achieve ideal thermal insulation.
• Every 3 rows, a metal mesh is placed in the seam, which serves to provide additional rigidity.
• Foam blocks are placed on the edge.
• Lintels over doors and windows are made in the same way as in the case of brickwork.

Log walls

This is exactly the option that comes to mind when it comes to a bathhouse. To make it, you will need to stock up on rounded or profiled logs. It is better to make from this material external wall. Because The structure is small, it is good if the partitions are framed.

After the construction of the walls is completed, primary caulking is performed. During which the hanging insulation is simply driven into the joints. Complete shrinkage of the building can last more than 1.5 years.

Frame walls

After the foundation is erected, an additional foundation is made for such a structure. It is carried out according to the example of the grillage discussed above. For corner posts we will need exactly the same timber as for the base. In addition, you will need to stock up on edged boards with a length equal to the height of the future walls, a width equal to the width of the grillage and a thickness of 5-10 cm.

Erection of the roof

For small buildings the ideal solution would be pitched roof. It is necessary to plan its production at the design stage. It is very important to be able to raise one wall higher than the other. When this is done, in the case of a wall made of brick and foam block, waterproofing made of bicrost or roofing material is laid on the upper end. Additional beams are mounted on it, which will serve as a Mauerlat. They are attached to the base using anchor bolts or walled-in studs. Beams are laid on top onto which the sheathing will be placed. They can be secured to the Mauerlat using metal corners.

In another option, the walls are made the same. Ceiling beams are laid on the Mauerlat. On one side, vertical boards are installed that will form a pediment, from which the rafters are lowered onto the other wall. At the point where they adjoin the Mauerlat, they are cut to the required angle. They are secured with metal corners. To make it easier to maintain the roof in one plane, the two outermost elements are installed first. A string is stretched between them, which will serve as a level.

The ceiling must be insulated. A vapor barrier is attached to the top of the ceiling crossbars. Thick foil can play this role. Insulation in the form of mineral wool is placed in the space between the beams. Additionally, it is covered with plastic film. WITH inside hemming is done using wooden lining or polished edged boards. Read more about insulating the ceiling in a bathhouse.

Note! For a house made of timber when fastening rafter legs It is better to use floating corners for the Mauerlat. This is necessary to prevent the roof from skewing during shrinkage.

Finish line

An integral part of every sauna is the stove. It can be made independently from sheet material or a large-diameter metal pipe. In another version, it is laid out of brick, but in this case it can take up a large space. For small spaces, it is better to use electric options that are purchased ready-made.

A shelf is installed inside the steam room. It is better not to use coniferous wood for it, because... When heated, it may release resin, causing burns. Good material for it would be aspen, larch, linden or oak. If the space is small, a width of 40 cm will be sufficient; it is more convenient when there is a footrest. The fastening material must be flush so as not to burn the skin (it must also be made of stainless material). It is better if the entire structure is assembled on dowels.

For wiring, you must use a double braided cable. It is better if it is non-flammable (usually the marking has the prefix “ng”). Be sure to lay the conductor in the corrugation. There are no switches installed in the steam room itself. The lamps used are waterproof with an IP68 index.

Make sure there is good ventilation. To do this, you can install an adjustable supply valve, as well as anemostats with an outlet to the gable through the roof. This will be enough to ensure that all moisture is removed after taking a steam bath.

As you can see, there are no restrictions on what you can build from. small sauna. Choose the option that suits you best.

Scheme

Frame-panel bathhouse with porch