The range of floor coverings is regularly updated with new products. Often these are modern materials created using the achievements of the chemical industry, but there are also solutions that can be described as “well forgotten old”. A striking example is parquet boards. In terms of its aesthetic appeal, durability and reliability, it is comparable to parquet, but installation parquet board It is simple and does not require highly qualified workers.

Parquet board, what is it

Parquet boards as a type of flooring appeared in the early 40s of the last century. It was created as a cheap and practical replacement for expensive parquet that requires skilled craftsmen. These days it is experiencing a rebirth. The main reason for this is absolute environmental safety, because the coating is made exclusively from natural wood.

Externally, the parquet board is similar to the usual laminate, but differs from it in its internal structure. If you look at it in cross-section, you can see three layers of planks different thicknesses, the direction of the fibers of each of which is perpendicular to the previous one. This design ensures the strength and reliability of the material.

Upper layer

The top (front) layer primarily creates the floor pattern. The lamellas from which it is assembled are selected according to pattern, shade and texture, and boards are selected without defects or damage. Some types of boards are covered with valuable wood veneer. In a sense, this is a piece product that allows you to create a luxurious and unique floor without any special investment.

In addition to its purely decorative function, the surface is resistant to abrasion and insensitive to constant pressure. That is why the top ball is made of hardwood, the layer thickness reaches 4 mm or more.

An additional advantage of the material is that it is completely ready for installation and operation. The front side is polished and impregnated from the factory protective compounds and varnished. All that is required from the consumer is to prepare the subfloor and lay the covering correctly.

Middle layer

The job of the middle layer is to distribute the load evenly. The best material for this is wood. coniferous trees. Longitudinal fibers give the material bending resistance, which ensures the durability and reliability of the coating as a whole.

The middle layer is assembled from planks about 7 mm thick. The width of each of them is up to 30 mm, the package is assembled with glue. Among other things, connection elements are formed in the middle layer, thanks to which the parquet board will be installed.

bottom layer

The entire layer cake rests on the base. These are one or two solid boards up to 4 mm thick, laid lengthwise long side, which provide stability and prevent the floor from sagging under pressure.

Advantages and disadvantages

There is no ideal material, parquet boards are no exception. When planning to lay this covering, it is worth familiarizing yourself with its main advantages and disadvantages.

You need to start with the obvious advantages:

• absolute environmental cleanliness;
• a skillfully laid board is comparable to parquet in appearance and characteristics;
• the board is much cheaper than parquet;
• easy to install, no experience or knowledge required;
• allows for the possibility of replacing a section of the floor without completely dismantling it;
• does not require subsequent surface treatment, scraping, or varnishing;
• A wide range of textures and colors are on sale.

At good care The service life of the coating is 20–30 years. This can be considered a disadvantage, because the same parquet will last much longer. True, the obvious advantages outweigh this conditional disadvantage. And besides everything, you can lay a parquet board with your own hands, but for parquet you will definitely have to invite specialists.

Preparing the subfloor

Parquet boards are not too picky about the base material. It can be laid with equal success on a leveled screed, on a base made of wood or plywood, moreover, it can be used to renew an old floor made of ceramic tiles. The only condition is that the base must be reliable and necessarily level.

In any case, before laying the tiles, you need to do a number of preparatory work. First, you should visually assess the quality of the floor using a simple building level. Identify problem areas and take measures to level the surface. High spots are smoothed out, cracks are widened and sealed concrete mortar, they also fill the recesses.

Note! Such “pothole” repairs are only possible if the surface is close to ideal and the height difference does not exceed 2–2.5 mm per square meter. Otherwise, you will have to think about creating a new subfloor.

The easiest way is to prepare the base for parquet boards using self-leveling compounds. They are easy to work with; just dissolve the mixture in water, following the instructions, and pour the solution in an even layer, of course, not forgetting about waterproofing.

You may also consider using sheet material wood based. Multilayer plywood is perfect for this, chipboard sheets or OSB. Using this material, you can create a new floor on joists or patch up an old one that is quite durable, but with a large difference in height.

The concrete floor must be primed and allowed to dry. It is necessary to lay a backing between the base and the board. Cork seems to be the best material for these purposes. It will smooth out possible unevenness in the foundation, help conserve heat in the house and protect from noisy neighbors.

Preparing to lay the coating

The technology for laying parquet boards is not particularly complicated; even a novice master can handle this task, but in any case it is easier to work with an assistant. And yet, before getting down to business, it’s worth preparing the tool. You will need:

• hand or electric saw;
• hammer with rubber striker;
• level and plastic rule;
• spatulas (smooth and serrated);
• tape measure, square, pencil;
• screwdriver;
• bracket for tightening rows.

In addition to the tools, you need to prepare the room itself. It would be a good idea to go over the floor with a vacuum cleaner again, paying special attention to the corners; a stray pebble can ruin the whole job.

Methods for installing parquet boards

Once the tool is assembled and the work front is prepared, you can proceed directly to installation. It’s worth mentioning here that there are three main installation methods:

• floating;
• glue fastening;
• using additional fasteners.

According to the installation method, a distinction is made between the longitudinal and diagonal method. When laying longitudinally, the boards are placed parallel to the wall, moving in the direction of the door, in the second case, diagonally from one of the corners. The longitudinal method is simpler; there is not much waste left during the work, but the diagonal method looks more impressive.

Floating installation

The peculiarity of floating installation is that the boards are not attached to the floor. The rigidity and immobility of the coating is achieved only through reliable locking connections. It is from this that all the pros and cons of such a configuration emerge:

• easy to install;
• it is easy to correct mistakes made during work;
• it’s easy to replace several damaged boards;
• it is possible to dismantle the floor and literally move it to another room;
• the coating is immune to changes in humidity and temperature;
• saving on adhesive composition.

As disadvantages, it is worth noting the need to carefully level the subfloor, the limitation on surface area, you should not use this method if the room is more than 50 square meters. Also, you cannot lay the board in this way in a room where a high load on the floor is expected.

Step-by-step instructions for carrying out the work are as follows.

1. First, lay the board along the longest wall of the room, from left to right. The part of the castle that will face the wall is cut off from the board. A complete row is assembled, the end board is cut to fit.
2. The coating should retreat from the walls by 10–15 mm; to achieve this, spacer wedges are used. Many people recommend completely assembling three rows before installing them, then placing wedges and using a bracket to pull the finished canvas, setting it in the desired position. Boards of each next row lay with a shift, if necessary, selecting a pattern.
3. The following rows are assembled sequentially; if necessary, the canvas is tapped with light blows rubber mallet. The hardest part to lay is the outermost row. Each board must be precisely adjusted in width, and it is important not to forget to leave a gap along the edge to compensate for thermal expansion.

Once the covering is completely laid, the wedges are removed, baseboards and door thresholds are installed. It is advisable to turn on the floor heating or any heating device to raise the temperature in the room and the board sat in place.

Glue mounting

The essence of this method is reflected in its name - the parquet board is glued to the base using special adhesives. This method is more labor-intensive, but it also has a number of significant advantages:

• there are no restrictions on the area and purpose of the room;
• Can be used in conjunction with water heated floors.

But this is a labor-intensive installation, and in the future it will be problematic to correct the mistakes made and replace the damaged area. The floor will cost more due to the need to purchase glue. You will have to wait until the glue hardens before you start using it.

It is worth noting that you need to buy the right glue, the composition of which is suitable for the specific selected board. In addition, you need to work extremely carefully to prevent glue from getting on front side coverings.

As in the first case, installation is carried out along the longest wall. Before applying glue, the board is laid out and the outermost one is cut off to create a full row.

A layer of glue 80–100 mm wider than the width of the board is applied to the prepared surface. The glue is evenly distributed over the area using a notched trowel.

Spacer wedges are placed between the first row and the wall. When laying the boards, they must be joined immediately using locking joints. Each laid plank is pressed for better grip. After laying the entire row, it must be additionally secured with self-tapping screws. They are screwed at an angle into the grooves of the lock.

The operation is repeated. Apply glue and lay the next row with a shift of half or a third of the length. First, the ends of adjacent boards are connected, then they are attached to the previous row. If a gap has formed, you need to get rid of it immediately, move the row using wooden block and a hammer.

The finished coating is left for several days until the glue dries completely. After this, the baseboard and thresholds are installed. It would be a good idea to treat the floor with a special compound that will fill the joints and create a perfectly flat surface.

Installation using additional fasteners

The third option is ideal for creating a floor on a wooden base. These could be logs, a base made of plywood or OSB, or old floorboards. A special feature of the method is that each board is attached to the base using screws or staples.

The optimal floor created using this method seems to be a structure on joists. The advantages of this approach are obvious - heat-insulating or sound-insulating materials can be laid in the space between the beams.

Parquet boards can be laid directly on the joists; in this case, you need to choose thick (at least 22 mm) material. The logs should lie at a short distance from each other (less than 0.5 m). The board is fastened across the joists, the joints should be located in the middle of the joists.

There is another way to create a floor on joists; it will take more time, but will help save on material. An additional advantage is the fact that owners are not limited to simple longitudinal laying; they can lay the board diagonally, creating complex drawings, for example, “herringbone”. In this case, sheets of plywood with a total thickness of about 20 mm are attached directly to the logs, and a parquet board is already attached to it. This significantly simplifies the installation work and removes the limitation on the thickness of the board.

Parquet board is a good choice for a beautiful and practical floor covering. The board is perfect for a stylish apartment and country house. It is easy to work with, its installation does not require special equipment and skills, even a beginner can handle it. Parquet boards are not that expensive, and when laid with trowels, they are in no way inferior to noble parquet.

People who want to emphasize their high status, good taste and wealth by choosing flooring, as a rule, they give preference to parquet. And all because this material has excellent wear resistance, a high level of reliability, it is environmentally friendly and looks simply gorgeous. The most problematic aspect and difficult type of work has always been considered to be covering the floor with parquet. But fortunately, with the advent of parquet boards, the situation has changed better side, and even a novice builder or a person far from repair work can cope with this work. Today we will learn how to lay parquet boards yourself, guided by the recommendations and advice of experts.

Types of parquet boards

Today this material is produced in several variations. Multilayer and solid parquet boards are available on the market. Their main difference lies in the manufacturing method. And depending on the production method, they are divided into:

1. Solid boards are made from solid pieces of hardwood and softwood. They are fastened using ridges and grooves located at the ends of the boards. Such materials are not cheap due to the fact that huge pieces of the most expensive wood are used for their production.
2. Multilayer boards - two or three layers of wooden sticks glued together. To give them additional strength, during the production process the layers are stacked on top of each other exclusively at right angles. But they have such unique performance characteristics due to the use of different types of wood. Thus, the top layer is usually made from the hardest wood species, and the second layer is made from softer wood. Subsequent layers are formed from plywood or previously discarded pine or spruce lamellas. Such boards cost much less than massive ones, since smaller materials are used to make them.

Depending on the number of planks, parquet boards are also different. Namely single-lane, two-lane, three-lane and even four-lane. To understand which materials are best to choose, you need to know the following:

• The most popular are three-strip boards, because they are most similar in appearance to parquet and are inexpensive.
• The most budget option are parquet boards consisting of four strips, because they are made from the narrowest lamellas. Unfortunately, their unattractive appearance does not allow the designers’ ideas to be realized through a successful combination of lamellas.
• Single-strip and double-strip boards are the most expensive, because they are made from the widest pieces of expensive wood. A room with such a floor looks solemn and rich.

Important! They can also vary in thickness from 7 to 22 mm. And it is this parameter that directly determines how the board will be laid.

Features of laying parquet boards

Despite the fact that even a beginner can install parquet boards, there is still a risk of completely ruining the coating. Therefore, during work you need to adhere to a certain installation technology.

If you want your parquet floor to last as long as possible, be sure to follow the rules below:

• The base must be well prepared. To do this, it is necessary to create a flat and durable surface, without any differences or deep cracks.
• It is necessary to maintain the required level of humidity. Although, thanks to modern technologies, wood is reliably protected from moisture, it is still not recommended to put this material on the floor in the bathroom, kitchen and toilet, because this is where the most high level humidity.
• The parquet board must be well prepared for installation. To prevent it from starting to warp and crack after all the work is completed, it should be left immediately after purchase in the room where it will be stored for several days.

Important! It is necessary to maintain a certain level of humidity and temperature during the installation process. Make sure that the temperature does not fall below 18 degrees and the humidity remains at 35-65%.

• The board also needs to be additionally insulated, because it is especially susceptible to negative impact moisture and temperature. For this purpose, a substrate is equipped, which consists of a layer of thermal insulation and waterproofing.
• Choose the correct laying direction. The boards must be laid in the direction of the sun's rays so that the joints are almost invisible.
• If the house where you want to lay parquet has a heated floor system, then you will have to create separate coverage from boards for each room. The fact is that each room has its own temperature microclimate and therefore the temperature can fluctuate within wide limits.

How to prepare the base for laying parquet?

Before learning how to properly lay parquet boards, read the information regarding the required preparatory work. This refers to the base on which the installation will be carried out.

Important! Parquet boards can be mounted on both concrete and wooden base. Therefore, it is important that they are smooth and durable. If you are creating floors from scratch, then you will have to make them taking into account the future installation of parquet. If you have to work with an old floor, you will need to carry out its repair and complete inspection.

Features of preparing a wooden base

If you want to use an existing wooden floor as a base, then you will need to perform whole line work before laying the parquet board:

• First you need to remove the old covering and check that the floor does not creak or fall anywhere, that there are no gaps between the boards and that all elements are firmly attached.
• If no problems are identified, then installation can begin. Otherwise, you will have to work hard if any defects are discovered.

Important! If the floorboards have simply dried out and there are large differences in height between them, then you can level the floor using putty or scrape it off. And if they are simply loose, then using self-tapping screws they can be attached to the joists.

• The most complex and time-consuming process is restoring damaged joists. The fact is that in such a situation you will have to completely dismantle the floor. Sagging joists can be raised by placing wooden chips or bars under them. And rotten boards will definitely have to be replaced.
• Maximum attention should be paid to the lag level. It is necessary to check that they are all in the same plane along the horizon.

Preparing to lay the concrete base

Here everything is much simpler and there is less work. You will have to do the following:

1. Remove the old coating and check for breaks, cracks and unevenness. If everything is fine, and there are small unevenness and cracks, then you can treat them with a primer on top, fill them with a special screed, which will level itself after drying.
2. If the concrete floor is severely crumbled, you will have to use a hammer drill to remove the old screed and re-lay it. And only after this it will be possible to start working with parquet.

Features of laying parquet boards in different ways

And now we will look at how to lay a parquet board with your own hands in all possible ways. Today there are three of them:

• floating method;
• using fasteners;
• through glue.

Important! It should immediately be noted that:

• Floating and glue methods require the creation of a continuous base for laying parquet. As a rule, they are used when working with panels of any type and thickness.
• By means of fastening, the boards are laid directly on the joists or wooden base - in this case it is very important that the board is at least 20-22 mm thick.

To choose best option For yourself and to find out the styling features, you need to familiarize yourself with each method separately.

Floating installation of parquet boards

This option is considered the fastest, simplest and does not require much labor. In this case, the boards are placed directly on the substrate, and the panels are connected to each other in a lock. And now in more detail how to lay a parquet board using a floating method:

• We lay the waterproofing on the already prepared base. It is better to use polyethylene film with a thickness of 200 microns for this. In order to end up with a solid surface, you should overlap the pieces of film next to each other so that the overlap is 15-20 cm. Then they are glued together with tape. It is also necessary to make an overlap of 10-15 cm on the walls.
• The second layer is a substrate laid on top of the film. Foamed polyethylene or cork can be used as a backing. They need to be laid end to end. All cracks and joints will need to be taped.
• Before laying the board itself, you need to make a calculation required quantity material. We do this so that if it is necessary to trim the last row, its width does not exceed 5 cm.
• Now we connect the panels of the first row and lay them with a tenon directly to the wall. To ensure a tight fit of the boards to the wall, it is necessary to cut off the tenons.

Important! In order to avoid damage and swelling of the boards due to fluctuations in humidity levels between seasons, gaps of 10-15 mm should be left between the boards and the walls. And in order for them to be preserved, pegs should be driven in.

• The panels of the second row are connected first, and then the entire row is connected to the first. You need to hammer the boards through a wooden block.
• You need to start laying the third row with a board, the length of which is equal to ⅓ of the normal panel.
• We start the fourth row with the whole board. All remaining rows are laid according to the same pattern.
• After laying the last panel, it is necessary to remove the bursting pegs and install the plinth.

Important! Often when performing work of this nature, problems arise related to bypassing water pipes and heating riser. To ensure perfect coverage in these places, you need to carefully trim the parquet board. As for the doorway, it is enough to make markings and cut the panel in the shape of a rectangle.

Laying parquet using glue method

Installing parquet boards in this way allows you to create a stronger monolithic structure, but you will have to work hard. In this installation option, all actions occur in the same sequence as in the method described above. But there are still some differences:

• In the case of working with glue, the role of the substrate will be played by waterproof plywood, which must be laid in rows at intervals. It must be additionally secured to the base with self-tapping screws or special pneumatic nails.
• Apply glue to the base and boards using a notched trowel. They should also fill all the grooves at the ends of the panels. You can remove excess glue with a damp cloth.

Important! The only disadvantage of this method is the high labor costs and complexity of installation.

Fastening method for laying parquet boards

This method is used when laying parquet on joists. In principle, most of the work is carried out similarly to the previous methods. But, of course, there are some differences:

• This method is used in cases of laying massive and multi-layer parquet boards with a thickness of 20 mm.
• Laying with fasteners is also used when laying solid boards produced on a continuous basis wooden surface or on lags.
• Even at the installation stage of the logs, waterproofing and insulation are carried out.
• The boards are fastened by driving nails into the groove at an angle of 45 degrees or screwing in self-tapping screws.

Important! During the process of laying the joists, you need to make sure that the joints of the boards run right in the middle of the joists. And nails and screws must be at least 2 times longer than the thickness of the panels.

Parquet boards have been popular at all times. And today's fashion does not ignore it. Moreover, if you install parquet boards yourself, you can significantly save on repairs. Let's try to understand this issue in more detail.

Rules and subtleties

The first copies of this building material were presented to the world in the early 40s of the last century. Small company from Sweden has set itself the task of producing an equivalent analogue expensive parquet. The second task was the desire to significantly speed up the process of laying the floor, since with a small parquet it was necessary to work hard.

The presented board consisted of two layers and did not receive wide application. The prototype of a modern coating appeared on the construction markets eight years later. And its main difference from its predecessor was the appearance of another layer.

Today, the dimensions of parquet boards differ depending on the manufacturer. Its length in its minimum dimensions is two meters, in its maximum – 2.6 m. The width starts from 13.9 cm and ends at 21 cm. The thickness is on average 14 mm.

A three-layer board consists of a stabilizing layer, a base and a top layer. The bottom layer protects the product from the concrete base. It is made from spruce veneer. Additionally, it prevents the board from deforming.

The central layer is made from pine. Special strips are laid out across the entire width of the product. And the top layer is directly responsible for the drawing. Depending on the price, these can be expensive or less expensive breeds valuable wood. These include oak, maple and alder. In African countries, cocobolo and mahogany are used. Fix the slats to the board with glue.

The fibers of the main layer are not parallel, but perpendicular to each other. Thanks to this, good fixation is achieved and the building material does not deform.

The base can be tinted or bleached to give certain shades. Heat treatment and brushing are also performed.

Upper layer may consist of polyurethane, oil or wax. Some manufacturers additionally cover alkyd varnish. Since the front layer is sanded and varnished, this building material becomes wear-resistant, moisture-resistant and serves long term. The main thing is to install it correctly.

It is very important to pay attention to what exactly the parquet board will be laid on. The floor must be level, solid, without chips or depressions. Only a minimal difference is allowed, otherwise the board will not hold up.

There is no need to tempt fate and lay parquet boards in rooms with high humidity– bathrooms, kitchens, swimming pools. Otherwise, the laid floor will quickly become unusable.

After transporting the building material, it is necessary to allow it to get used to the temperature and humidity of the room. Typically, specialists wait about two days, after which they begin installation. In this case, the room temperature should be higher than or equal to 17 degrees, and the humidity should be moderate.

Like laminate, parquet boards are laid along the sun's rays, thus hiding the seams and minor defects. Don't forget about the backing. It acts as a noise-canceling material.

Tools and accessories

You should start laying parquet boards only after measuring the humidity in the room. Its indicators should not exceed sixty percent. A device called a hygrometer helps take measurements.

A set of tools designed for installing parquet boards:

• Jigsaw. For household suitable for use a regular jigsaw made in South Korea, Japan, countries European Union or in the United States of America. IN hardware store You can also find good examples from domestic manufacturers. The main thing is that the power of the device is at least 550 watts.
• Hammer or mallet. It is not necessary that this hand tool It was from a renowned manufacturer; for household needs, any that is on hand will do.
• Tape measure and square. Useful for measuring work.
• Pencil. You can use a construction one, or a regular one.
• Mounting block. Using this device, you can reduce the load on the locking joints and on the parquet board itself. In this case, cracks and chips are excluded.

• Wedges. They are used as stops between the wall, door and parquet board. Remember that it is unacceptable to lay building materials without limiters, otherwise the board may fail due to changes in temperature and humidity.
• Cutters and staples. Will be needed to secure the last row.
• Hacksaw. A wood saw may be needed when fitting the final boards.
• Hammer. With its help, holes are drilled for joining at the location of the heating system. The first holes are made with this tool, and the subsequent work is done with a jigsaw.
• Miter box. It will be an indispensable assistant when installing skirting boards.
• Sealant and a notched trowel.

Types and methods

The floating flooring method is the most popular throughout the world. The only limitation is the size of the room - it should not be more than 60 square meters. m. In this case, the base must be leveled, and the parquet board must have either lock connection, either ultralock or combiloc.

The second method of laying parquet boards is with polyurethane glue. With this, the concrete base must be leveled, the surface must be dried and dry. The moisture content of the screed should not exceed three percent. Special sheets of plywood are laid on the screed, which are subsequently sanded.

The glue is applied to the surface using a spatula, and the parquet board is tapped with a block to improve the effect. The glue dries in about 24 hours. But remember that some manufacturers advise using their own adhesive mixtures, so it is best to familiarize yourself with the manufacturer’s recommendations in advance.

In some cases, experts resort to a screwdriver and self-tapping screws. If you fix the board with self-tapping screws at a certain angle, it will fit securely to the base. This method is known among layers as mechanical.

The methods of fastening the board were discussed above, now it’s worth familiarizing yourself with the methods of laying it.

The easiest way to lay parquet boards is either along or across the room. This method is often chosen, since installation does not require specific skills and experience. If you lay the parquet board lengthwise, the room will visually become longer, and if it is laid across, then, on the contrary, it will increase in width.

Mirrors will help enhance this visual effect. This must be taken into account in rooms of non-standard shape.

Diagonal masonry can only be done by professionals. It is less economical compared to laying along or across, as it creates sufficient quantity scraps. From a design point of view, the diagonal laying method is best used in square rooms. You will need a miter saw to make the correct cut. The cutting angle should be 45 degrees in some places, 30 degrees in others.

Laying begins in the center of the room. To maintain a straight line, you need to pull the thread or draw a felt-tip pen along the floor. The first row is the central one; you can continue laying from it in one direction or the other.

The herringbone layout has been known to many since Soviet times. The parquet was laid in this way. The installation principle is no different, the only difference is the length of the parquet board - it significantly exceeds the length of the parquet.

Deck masonry is slightly different from the longitudinal method - the offset of the new row should be greater than half the parquet board of the previous one. This ensures good fixation, which means the life of the flooring increases.

Preparing the base

Before laying the parquet board, you need to take care of the base. The subfloor not only levels the surface, but also contributes to noise reduction and thermal insulation. Craftsmen recommend making a permanent foundation and never returning to it again. This approach saves not only money, but also time and effort.

The subfloor has two types - dry and self-leveling. The first type is made on logs, and the second is done using concrete. Concrete expanded clay can also be used for wet floors. You only need to start from the availability in the hardware store and your financial situation.

Self-leveling subfloors are mainly made in panel city houses. This is due to the fact that the ceilings of such houses are made of reinforced concrete slabs. IN country houses do concrete screed It is possible, but this requires an appropriate foundation.

Remember that you need to pour the concrete screed only after fixing the waterproofing. Plastic film sold in a hardware store is quite suitable for this.

If waterproofing is not done, there is a high probability that liquid concrete will flow through the cracks to the neighbors living on the floor below. Therefore, the film must be firmly attached, and along the edges of the room it should be supplemented with penoflex.

The next layer of the “pie” is thermal insulation material. Commonly used ones include polystyrene foam and penofol. The latter has an additional coating consisting of aluminum foil, which reflects heat. Foamed polyethylene is a new product construction market, its cost is slightly higher than its predecessors, but thanks to its unique features the material is gaining popularity.

It would be useful to cover the thermal insulation material with another layer of waterproofing.

Before pouring the floor with concrete screed, it is necessary to set up beacons. The screed will subsequently be leveled along them. For accuracy you should use building level, it must be of suitable size and characteristics.

Concrete expanded clay has improved noise absorption and thermal insulation properties. It is the benchmark in this segment and is head and shoulders above the outdated concrete.

Mix the solution according to the instructions, then pour it onto the prepared base in a short time. Leveling the concrete screed is carried out using a tool - rules, do not forget about the beacons. Excess must be removed without sparing. After the surface becomes smooth, the floor is left to dry.

The subfloor made of wood is mounted on a concrete base. To do this, logs are laid on the prepared surface.

In this case, the base must be leveled and not have significant distortions, otherwise the parquet board laid on such a base will “creak”. And the floor itself will be crooked.

If the concrete floor in the room is uneven, it is recommended to “tweak” it slightly. It is correct, from the point of view of the layers, to use an additional layer of screed. A small amount of solution is enough to just correct this deficiency. TO next stage start after it has completely dried.

Subsequently, you need to put a waterproofing film on the screed. All cracks are thoroughly sealed with regular adhesive tape. Natural material can be used as sound insulation - Cork tree or the previously mentioned foamed polyethylene. Without this layer, there is a high probability of noise occurring when walking.

Directly for lags it is best to use high-quality edged board made of solid wood with dimensions 25 x 100 mm. It is not advisable to save money in this matter, otherwise the result will be disastrous. Remember that the miser pays twice. The logs are installed on a noise reduction layer, the result of the work is constantly checked using a building level. The joists are secured to the floor with corners.

The insulation is placed between the joists so that it is flush with them, there should be no protrusions. Plywood is laid on top of this structure. If the budget is limited, then plywood can be replaced with floorboards.

Remember that the thickness of the plywood must be more than 20 mm, otherwise it will deform under the weight of human traffic. Negatively on thin plywood Massive furniture can also have an effect.

Plywood must be laid in a checkerboard pattern. This ensures that the joints will not be in the same row. Installation is carried out using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws. Do not forget that you need to lay plywood by making an indentation from the wall. It must be at least 3 cm.

If the house is wooden, then the subfloor can be installed according to load-bearing beams. In this case, the beams will play the role of a log, which means that thanks to this you can save significantly. But remember that p The distance between the beams should be small, otherwise you will have to “build up” an additional base from the logs.

Selecting a substrate

If the parquet board is laid without the use of polyurethane glue (or any other), then a backing must be laid between the product and the base. Recommendations for the underlying layer are also given by manufacturing plants. This layer comes in the form of non-woven rolls or ordinary mats.

The underlay promotes a tight fit of the parquet board to the concrete or wooden floor, thereby reducing the likelihood of squeaks or other extraneous noise.

The backing layer protects the locking connection from premature failure. It retains heat well in the room and prevents damage to the parquet board due to moisture.

Despite all the advantages, it is worth remembering that they are achieved only if the thickness of the substrate does not exceed 3 mm. “Overdose,” as in the case of tablets, leads to negative consequences, in particular, to the destruction of the locks of the parquet board.

The choice of substrate is determined by the type of subfloor. For concrete, you can use a “non-breathable” substrate. And for a wooden base - only from natural materials, since if you use polyethylene, the wood may begin to rot under the influence of moisture.

The most affordable is an elastomer backing layer. It is available in three varieties. Ordinary can be called non-crosslinked polyethylene, in the second “place” - having a layer of aluminum foil - either on one or both sides. And foamed polyethylene, but do not confuse it with polyurethane and polypropylene.

The popularity of this synthetic material is due to its affordable cost, ease of installation, and excellent water-repellent properties. The material does not deteriorate even under the influence of a chemical environment. Unfortunately, there is also a significant drawback - during operation, the material may settle, which means that air will appear between the base and the parquet board, which can lead to squeaking.

Another one is used as a base layer synthetic material– foamed polystyrene. On sale it can be found in the form of an accordion; there are also improved versions with a foil heat-reflecting layer. This material is easy to install, it protects the parquet board from moisture, has good noise-reducing properties, and retains heat. Unfortunately, it also has its drawback - it is high cost.

An underlayment made of pine or spruce is sold in hardware stores as pine mats. Coniferous underlayment is suitable for any subfloor. It has all the previously mentioned qualities, like other representatives of this segment. Among the disadvantages, experts note the high cost and installation - it is uneconomical and labor-intensive.

In addition, like any natural material, it is damaged by pests and fungal spores. It is desirable that the thickness of the substrate be less than 5 mm.

Construction paper was developed in the country that invented parquet boards. Therefore, we can safely recommend this underlying layer as an alternative to the others. Cardboard is dense, it is very difficult to tear, it “breathes” and has noise-reducing properties. But like any paper, cardboard does not tolerate moisture; it should not be laid in kitchens or bathrooms. Another disadvantage is the cost.

Cork substrate is available in the form of special sheets and rolls. This is a natural building material obtained by pressing tree bark. The most commonly used bark is oak. It is glued together using various resins. Like anyone natural material, it is subject to colonization by fungal spores, so it is necessary to lay waterproofing.

There are varieties in the store that have two layers. Second waterproofing layer is either rubber or bitumen. The addition gives the product soundproofing qualities, resistance to deformation and static electricity. Depending on the presence of the second layer or its absence, the thickness cork backing can be either 2 or 7 mm.

One of the latest innovations in the construction segment is the Tuplex underlay, which is suitable for parquet boards with a thickness of over 10 mm. This is a synthetic material consisting of double polyethylene film and filler. The filler is mainly made of polystyrene. The base layer is also suitable for underfloor heating systems. Adhesive tape is used to secure it.

A plywood underlay is only required when leveling the base. If there is no such need, then a substrate will not be needed.

You can choose a base layer at any hardware store, based only on your preferences and financial situation.

Lay it on concrete

As an example, we will consider glue method styling Before you begin installing the parquet board, you need to treat the concrete floor with an acrylic primer. The application layer should not be too thick. After the primer has covered the entire surface, you need to wait until it dries.

In terms of its physical characteristics, the glue should not resemble liquid sour cream; it is better that it be denser. The glue is applied to the concrete base in any convenient way, preferably with a brush. It is spread over the surface with a wide metal spatula.

Without waiting for the glue to dry, a base layer in the form of plywood sheets is laid. The glue must be applied evenly in all areas so that the plywood lies equally level - the work is checked using a building level. Plywood can be laid in any way, there is no difference, the main thing is not to forget to sand the seams acrylic sealant. After two days, the work is checked again with a level, and if the installation was done efficiently, then it is necessary to consolidate the result - sand the surface.

A tape is suitable for this stage Grinder, it speeds up the process and does its job efficiently. You won't be able to achieve the same result with sandpaper.

The second stage involves laying the parquet board; either polyurethane glue or acrylic glue is suitable for this. First, wedges are installed - they limit the parquet board, and the gap is equal to 10 mm.

The glue is prepared in small containers and used in the first minutes, the board is laid with spikes against the wall. To distribute the glue you will need a spatula with a serrated design.

If you cut the next row by a third, you can achieve a beautiful pattern. In addition, the locking connection will hold better and will not collapse after some time. The leveling of the parquet board must be checked using a building level.

If the glue protrudes through the edges, it must be removed. After installing the floor, all seams are sealed with sealant. Finishing The parquet is made after waiting five days.

If the room has a wooden lining, then the floor is installed without glue or screws. The main condition is the small dimensions of the room or terrace. In this case, the locking connection will cope with its task with a bang, and the parquet board will last a long time.

How to put it on a “warm floor”?

First of all, I would like to note the fact that for a warm floor it is necessary to lay parquet boards made of either oak or walnut. It is these two types of wood that, in terms of their physical characteristics, ensure compatibility with it, since they do not deform under the influence of temperature. If the base is maple or beech, then such a board will fail in a short period of time, because their thermal conductivity is higher.

It is very important to take into account the thickness of the parquet board, and if the board is thick, then the “warm floor” effect will not be felt. The fact is that thick wood will not allow heat to escape. Only products whose thickness does not exceed 14.5 mm cope with this task.

The floor must be laid in a floating manner. With this method of laying, the wood does not deform under the influence of humidity and when the temperature changes. The floor heating system also plays an important role. Remember that wood is highly flammable, which means there is a risk of fire.

Warm floors come in infrared, water and electric type. Water and electric heated floors have been known to the world since the beginning of the last century. For electric heating element are cables, but in a wooden box there is a risk of fire, and it is completely forbidden to lay water cables in city apartments, since you can flood the neighbors below.

Infrared film heated floors were invented in South Korea several years ago. This is a kind of novelty, although indirectly it can be called a variety electrical systems heating. It is worth remembering that the temperature set on the thermostat should not be higher than 28 degrees.

A water floor is the best option for country cottages, provided that the ceiling between the basement and the first floor is made using wooden blocks. It has significant disadvantages, including:

• Wear of plastic pipes. High probability of flooding basement and damage to parquet boards.
• Problematic temperature control.
• The floor will be raised ten centimeters.
• It is necessary to have your own boiler room.

There are also a number of rules when installing parquet boards on a heating system. Firstly, installation is carried out only using the floating method, using plywood as a substrate. Secondly, the parquet board should not heat up to 30 degrees or higher. If this happens, the tree will become unusable.

You can lay a parquet board on a heated floor system yourself, but to do this you need to carefully study the work algorithm, and if you have doubts about your abilities, it is better to turn to specialists.

Installation technology

Let's take infrared heated floors as an example, since this new product is easiest to install with your own hands in city apartments and country houses.

The step-by-step instructions assume that installation is carried out on a prepared concrete or wooden base; it must be level, clean and dry. Differences should be checked with a building level; they should not exceed 2 mm.

For a concrete floor, grinding will have to be done, and for a wooden floor, sanding will have to be done. It is very important to clean the surface after completing work using a vacuum cleaner and broom.

Next, you need to protect the heating system from the actions of the concrete base; for this, a base layer is laid. Polyethylene acts as waterproofing and thermal insulation. It is important to mark out the infrared floor system and find a place for the sensor and thermostat. He is responsible for setting the temperature. Infrared mats are mounted with the film down and secured to each other using adhesive tape. Bitumen insulation protects products from the external environment.

After all connecting stages, the operation of the heated floor is checked. If heating occurs evenly, then a plywood layer is attached on top. It is on this that the parquet board will subsequently be installed.

Laying solid parquet boards can be done by one person. Modern models with locking connections of combination units are easy to install and reliable in operation. It doesn’t matter whether a two-strip or three-strip parquet board will be used, the installation procedure for all products is the same and it has already been discussed in the previous sections.

How to dock?

Unfortunately, parquet boards do not tolerate moisture, and in some rooms it is necessary to make a transition between the boards and tiles or other building materials. Most often, docking is used in the corridor - in front front door, between the corridor and the kitchen, between the bathroom and the corridor.

In studio apartments, country houses and other premises, the joint with tiles without a threshold can be sealed with sealant and liquid stopper. It is desirable that the sealant matches the color of one of the building materials.

Remember that colorless sealant is universal and suitable in most cases. Unfortunately, a low-quality substance will quickly become unusable and the repair will have to be redone. It is applied using a gun or syringe.

Liquid cork can be applied even by a non-specialist in this field, since it is a kind of glue. The glue holds two building materials together and does not deform or crumble. It is advisable to apply it after pre-treating the surface with oil. After the glue has dried, it is cut off with a knife. To do this, you can use a construction or stationery knife.

As decorative material can be used wooden cork, plastic or metal profile. A cork made of wood is installed in the joints before sanding. The main feature of this material is that it takes on various geometric shapes, and this looks beautiful in most interiors. Another advantage is that the locking connection is not damaged during the operational period.

Metal and plastic profile lay only in a straight line. The profile protrudes above the surface. From a design point of view, this is the worst option. Metallic profile, as a rule, has additional holes; screws must be screwed into them.

Remember that you need to work with tiles with a special drill, otherwise they may lose their presentation.

Features of installation to the wall and ceiling

Attaching parquet to the wall and ceiling is another recent trend. In this way, the unity of the interior is achieved, a kind of “box” is obtained. Such a room is suitable for placing acoustic systems - a home theater, a music room and a projector room.

You need to attach the parquet board to a special frame; something similar was discussed in one of the sections - laying the floor on joists, only in this case the guides are located on the ceiling and on the walls.

If the sheathing is fixed to the wall, and especially to the ceiling, only with the help of a locking connection, then such a structure will fall apart like a house of cards. This is fraught with injuries and abrasions. Therefore, additional screws are screwed into each parquet board.

The transition between the ceiling and the wall can be left straight, but for elegance, craftsmen recommend bending the parquet board. Using a router, small indentations are made, after which the board “gives in.” The radius is selected by trial and error, but remember that it should be the same on all walls. The finishing is completed with the ceiling.

Common mistakes

Often, the installation of parquet boards begins immediately after its purchase. This is one of the common mistakes. Construction material must “get used” to the temperature conditions of the room and its humidity.

Remember that the temperature should not be lower than 18 degrees. The parquet board should lie idle for at least two days.

The subfloor must be leveled; differences of only about 2 mm are permissible. It is best to use concrete expanded clay; it gives the surface not only a leveled appearance, but also thermal insulation and sound absorption. All further actions performed only after 100% drying.

The waterproofing and underlay layers allow the parquet board to be used for a long time without squeaking, and if you skimp on them, the result will be the opposite.

It is very important to lay parquet boards in last resort, but if the room requires wallpapering the walls, then you need to start with them. Remember that after wallpapering, wallpaper releases moisture when it dries, which means that the humidity in the room will be increased.

The wooden base of a parquet board is not intended for rooms with high humidity; its indicators must be normal and comply with the recommendations given by manufacturers.

Examples in the interior

• In a country house You can use a parquet board to decorate the top floor where the wall meets the roof. Such a smooth transition is achieved due to milling grooves; it is only important not to forget about the screws when fastening. A conventional locking connection will not be able to withstand the own weight of the parquet board.
• In studio apartments It is very important not to forget that parquet boards do not tolerate high humidity, and it follows from this that it is advisable to lay them in the kitchen or hallway tiles or moisture-resistant parquet. In this case, docking can be done in any convenient way. In an apartment, such a transition is most often made in the hallway, because if you constantly step on the parquet board with wet shoes, it will become unusable in a short time.

Those who want to emphasize their status, wealth and good taste should pay attention to parquet when choosing flooring. It has high reliability, environmental friendliness, good wear resistance and excellent appearance. The process of laying parquet has always been one of the most difficult types of work, but with the advent of solid parquet boards, everything has become much easier. Laying parquet boards is a fairly simple task, and you can do it yourself, the main thing is to know how to use the tool and follow certain rules and recommendations.

Today there are two types of parquet boards on the market: solid parquet boards and multilayer parquet boards. They differ in their production method.

Solid parquet board made from a single piece of wood with a groove and a tongue at the ends. For its production, both deciduous and conifers wood

Multilayer parquet board consists of different types of wood

Created by combining several types of wood with different characteristics, thereby achieving exceptional performance characteristics boards. For the first layer of lamellas, hard and valuable wood species are used. The appearance and strength of the parquet board will depend on the first layer. The second layer of lamellas is located perpendicular to the first, and softwood is used for it. This layer is used as a connecting element both for this panel and for neighboring ones. The third layer is made of plywood or pine or spruce slats up to 4 mm thick.

In addition, parquet boards are sold with a coating applied at the factory, impregnated against fungi and rot. Regardless of the type of parquet board, its durability and strength are directly affected by compliance with production, storage and installation technology. And if it is impossible to influence the production process and storage conditions, then you can control the installation process, or better yet, do it yourself.

Specifics of laying parquet boards

To create a strong and durable floor covering from parquet boards, skill in using the tool will not be enough. If you do not adhere to installation technology during work, you will not get reliable and beautiful parquet. Therefore, before laying parquet boards, it is necessary to perform a number of preparatory work and adhere to certain technological requirements.

• The first thing you should pay attention to is the base on which the parquet board will be laid. It should be smooth, durable, without cracks, depressions or differences. The maximum permissible height difference is 2 mm per 1 linear meter. If the foundation is damaged, it should be repaired or rebuilt.

• Second important point Something to pay attention to is the humidity level in the room. Parquet boards do not tolerate high humidity well, so installing them in a bathroom, toilet or kitchen is undesirable.

• Thirdly, after purchasing and delivering a parquet board, it must be allowed to sit indoors for 48 hours. And only after the board has “accustomed” to the microclimate of the room can you begin laying it.

• Fourthly, in order to obtain a truly strong and durable coating, during installation indoors it is necessary to maintain a certain level of humidity, in the range of 35-65%, and a temperature not lower than +18 °C.

Laying plan for parquet boards

Another requirement for laying parquet boards is the presence of a backing and waterproofing, regardless of the type of base and room. The parquet board itself should be laid in the direction of the rays of light to hide the shadows at the joints.

Preparing the base for installation

Before laying the parquet board, the surface is leveled with a self-leveling mixture

Installation of parquet boards can be done on both concrete and wooden bases. The main requirements for it are strength, reliability and Smooth surface. Therefore, before installation, it is necessary to inspect the base and, if necessary, carry out repair work.

Let's prepare the wooden floor

If the parquet board will be laid on a wooden floor, you should check it for dips, creaks and differences between the floorboards. If the floor is in excellent condition, but there are small differences and gaps between the floor boards, then it needs to be leveled. To do this, the surface can be scraped and puttied, then sanded and further installation work can begin. If the floorboards squeak or loosen a little, they can be secured to the joists using self-tapping screws, and the surface can be scraped and puttied. But if a wooden floor fails, you will have to disassemble it down to the joists, level or partially replace them, and then reassemble the entire structure.

Preparing a rough concrete base

WITH concrete base the situation is somewhat simpler. Its surface should be checked for cracks, differences or depressions. If any are present, the surface should be cleared of debris, filled with a self-leveling mixture and allowed to dry for several days. But if the concrete has cracked, turned to dust and is wobbly in places, then you will have to use a hammer drill to remove the old concrete screed to the base and pour a new one. And only after the concrete has dried can you begin laying the parquet boards.

How to lay parquet boards correctly

Before laying the parquet board, you need to decide on the method of laying it. There are only two of them - glued and glueless (floating).

Gluing the parquet board to the base creates a monolithic structure

The adhesive installation method allows you to create a durable and reliable coating in large areas. The process itself is quite labor-intensive and requires increased attention and precision in the work. In addition, if there is a need to replace one panel, you will have to tinker a lot and, possibly, replace several adjacent panels at once. The glueless method is the simplest and fastest. The panels themselves are connected to each other in a lock and laid on a substrate, while the lock connection is sometimes glued.

Installation of parquet boards is carried out as follows:

• We lay waterproofing made of polyethylene film on a concrete or wooden base. We lay the film sheets overlapping (15 - 20 cm) and glue them together with tape. We also make an overlap of 10 - 15 cm on the walls and glue it with tape;

• Lay a backing on top of the film. For these purposes, you can use foamed polyethylene, polystyrene or cork. Polyethylene foam and cork are sold in rolls, and polystyrene is sold in the form of mats. We spread sheets of foamed polyethylene and cork along the entire length of the room and glue them with tape. We lay the polystyrene mats end to end and “staggered”, sealing the joints with tape. If you plan to create a completely environmentally friendly floor covering, then you should use cork as a substrate.

The adhesive method of laying parquet boards requires a base made of moisture-resistant plywood

Important! If you plan to use a glue method for laying parquet boards, then waterproof plywood is used as a backing. We lay its sheets directly on the base and secure it with self-tapping screws. We begin laying from the walls, moving towards the middle of the room so that the last row of sheets lies between the two previously laid.

• Now it is necessary to carry out small calculations of the number of rows of parquet boards. If it becomes necessary to trim the last row and its width is less than 5 cm, then you will have to make the first and last row the same width;

The first row of parquet boards is laid with a tenon against the wall (the tenon is pre-cut down)

• we lay the panels of the first row with the tenon to the wall;

Important! For a tighter fit, the tenon on the longitudinal side of the panels must be cut off.

• Since wood tends to expand or shrink depending on seasonal humidity levels, it is necessary to leave a gap of 10 - 15 cm between the wall and the parquet board. To maintain this gap during installation, we insert special pegs. We place three pegs on the longitudinal side of one panel, and two on the narrow side;

For a tight fit, we finish the parquet boards with a hammer

• We connect the panels of the first row together into a lock. To do this, place each next panel at a slight angle with a tenon into the groove of the previous one and, for a tight fit, finish it off with a hammer through a wooden block;

In addition to gluing the parquet board to the base, we secure it into the groove with pneumatic nails

Important! If we use the adhesive installation method, then before laying each new panel, apply glue to the place where it is laid and level it using a notched trowel. We additionally secure the panels using pneumatic nails in an inconspicuous place - inside the groove. It is necessary to ensure that parquet panels at narrow joints do not form ledges or bevels.

For greater strength, laying parquet boards must be done “staggered”

• In order for parquet to be a reliable and durable floor covering, it should be laid staggered. Therefore, we begin to lay the second row with a shorter board. To do this, you will have to cut the board so that it is 2/3 of the normal length;

• the second row of panels is connected to each other in the same way as the first, then the entire row is moved towards the first and connected. We place the panels of the second row at a slight angle into the groove of the first row and, for a tighter fit, we finish the panels with a hammer through a block. We do this gradually, first the first panel, then the second and so on until the end;

Important! The last panels in each row should be finished off using a clamp. With the adhesive laying method, the second row is laid by casting. To do this, glue is applied to the installation site and the parquet panel is immediately laid, which is achieved with a hammer, and only after that the next one is laid. We secure the second row of panels additionally in the same way as the first.

• We begin laying the third row of panels from a board whose length is 1/3 of the normal length. After which the installation is carried out according to the algorithm of the first and second rows;

• We begin laying the fourth row from the whole panel. We lay each next row, completely repeating the above-described algorithm for laying the first four rows;

• when laying parquet boards near doorways, it is necessary to make cutouts in the board so that it fits snugly against the door frame posts;

• Particular attention must be paid to the places in the room where the heating pipe risers pass. To make installation in such places, it is necessary to mark the position of the pipes on the parquet board. After this, drill a hole for the pipe with a diameter 2 mm larger than the pipe itself, and cut off part of the board exactly in the middle of the hole. Now we put most of the board in place and secure it. Apply glue to the ends of the cut piece and put it in place. We place a special plug around the pipe in the same color as the parquet;

• when the parquet board is laid over the entire area of ​​the room, remove the spacer pegs between the wall and the first row;

• The final stage of laying parquet boards is the installation of skirting boards. The plinth itself is attached to a special fastener - a clamp. To install the plinth, first cut off the protruding part of the substrate and waterproofing with a knife. Then we install the first clamps at a distance of 15 - 20 cm from the corners, install the next clamps in increments of 40 - 50 cm. The clamps themselves for the plinth are attached to the wall using dowels and self-tapping screws.

Important! If glue was used during the installation process, it must be allowed to dry for 24 hours, after which the parquet flooring will be ready for use.

Parquet board and “warm floor”

The parquet board itself is a fairly good thermal insulation material; in addition, the substrate provides additional thermal insulation. But if there is a need for additional heating, then the parquet board can be laid on a “warm floor” system. The main thing to consider is the type of “warm floor”. It should be water heated, but not electric. The fact is that “warm floors” with electric heating dialing too fast high temperature, and as a result, the locking joint of the parquet board begins to crack due to a sharp temperature change.

Also, before starting the installation process, it is necessary to turn off the system in advance and allow the floors to cool to room temperature, and only then begin installation. Upon completion of all work on installing the parquet board, the “warm floor” system can be turned on no earlier than 7 days later, and the temperature can be increased to the same level gradually, 2-3 degrees per day. In addition, in order for a parquet floor to not “lead”, the temperature over the entire surface must be the same. If the “warm floor” system is installed in all rooms, during installation it is necessary to ensure that in each room the parquet floor ends at doorways.

Parquet board served as an alternative classic parquet, which made it possible to create beautiful and natural floors on your own, significantly saving on the services of hired craftsmen. But, like any natural material, parquet boards require careful work and compliance with all standards, requirements and recommendations of the manufacturer, following which you can create a reliable and durable floor covering.

If you plan to perform high-quality work, pay attention to how the parquet boards are laid. This material is presented in a large assortment, which will allow you to choose the appropriate option. We propose to deal with technological features performing installation work.

Read in the article

What is a parquet board and what does it look like: photos of interesting solutions in the interior

Parquet boards are a popular type of flooring, manufactured in different countries. It is a rectangular multilayer product, which, when combined with other elements, forms a solid surface. We invite you to look at the photo of the parquet board so that you can appreciate the presentability of this type of flooring:

Advantages and disadvantages of parquet boards

The choice in favor of parquet boards is made because of its undeniable advantages. This material:

• is natural, environmentally friendly;
• has a unique design;
• has a presentable appearance. Thanks to the production technology used, the parquet board looks as noble as natural piece parquet, but at the same time has a lower cost;
• does not change its geometry with temperature fluctuations and changes;
• Installs much easier than parquet blocks. Installation work can be done in-house;
• all elements fit tightly enough to each other thanks to locking or tongue-and-groove connections;
• It happens different types. One- and two-strip panels are difficult to distinguish from plank floorboards. Three-strips imitate parquet well;
• does not require additional processing after installation.

Wooden base

The procedure for preparing a wooden base depends on the condition of the boards. If the flooring was formed relatively recently and has no defects or elements affected by fungus or mold, the restoration stage can be skipped. Damaged fragments should be replaced with new ones. If the wooden base sags, it should be strengthened. Those with cracks must. Knots – remove by sanding.

At the preparatory stage, it is necessary to check the degree of curvature of the base. To level the bases, you should use sanding equipment, putty the base or lay it. Laying parquet boards on plywood can also be carried out in the case of a concrete base.

Attention! The difference in height in any meter section should not exceed 2 mm.

How to lay a backing: important points

If the adhesive installation method is chosen, the parquet boards are laid directly on. In this case, you should refuse to use the substrate. With the locking method, work is performed in the following sequence:

Illustration	Description of action
	The floor is covered with film. It is laid with an overlap of 15–25 cm. Adhesive tape is used for fixation.
	Covered. The choice can be given to sheets or roll materials. Installation is carried out end-to-end.

Attention! If installation will be carried out on a heated floor, you should check its performance for 2 weeks, and then turn it off 3-4 hours before installation.

Technology of laying parquet boards in different ways

The technology for laying parquet boards depends on the design features of the selected material. Before starting installation work, read the manufacturers' recommendations.

Laying parquet boards using the floating method

Installation work begins with the longest wall. You should move from left to right. Expansion wedges are installed along the entire perimeter of the room during the installation of parquet boards using a floating method.

Attention! When laying parquet boards professionally, some specialists install the pegs after assembling the first three rows.

For panels laid in the first row, the protruding part of the lock should be cut off. The installation of the lamellas of the next row is carried out with some offset relative to the first.

We invite you to watch a video describing in detail how to lay parquet boards using the floating method:

Laying parquet boards with glue: detailed video instructions

The procedure for laying parquet boards with glue is slightly different. We suggest watching the video to make it easier for you to understand the intricacies of the process:

How to lay parquet boards on joists: algorithm of actions

We suggest you figure out how to lay parquet boards on joists. Installation work is carried out in the following sequence:

We control the spatial position of each log.

Illustration	Description of action
	Logs are installed. IN longitudinal direction they should be placed at a distance of 10 cm from the wall. At the end you need to retreat 3 cm.
	If there are deviations, the required level is ensured using plastic wedges. The latter must be secured with fasteners. We install parquet boards.
	We control the gap between the formed coating and the wall. It should not be less than 3 cm. We install a ventilated baseboard.

Features of installing parquet on the wall

Parquet is widely used in wall decoration. Depending on the panel, the panels can be mounted in different ways:

• along the wall;
• across the base;
• diagonally.

You can cover not only the entire surface of the wall with parquet boards, but also a certain part, or arrange it in any order.

The installation procedure is almost identical to laying it on the floor. We invite you to watch a video that explains in detail how to lay and fasten parquet:

Operation and care of parquet boards

In order for the formed floor covering to last as long as possible, it must be used correctly: it must be protected from mechanical stress. It is advisable that the legs of the furniture have special pads, or that it is operated on transparent plastic mats. A mat should be provided at the entrance to the apartment to prevent sand from getting inside from the street. You should walk around the room either barefoot or wearing special house shoes.