From how correctly the planting of peonies is done, it will depend on how quickly the bush will take root, and how long it will delight you with lush flowering. If you were not able to inspect the delenki during the purchase (in stores they are usually packed in tight bags), be sure to do it at home. Before planting peonies in the country, you need to make sure that the acquired rhizomes are healthy, otherwise you risk infecting the entire garden. Also, before planting peonies, you need to check the usefulness of the divisions, so as not to wait in vain for seedlings from obviously unsuitable planting material.

Before deciding where to plant peonies, one must remember that at the moment of flowering these plants overshadow all other flowers, so this luxury should be planted where the bushes will be visible from different points of the garden. It is also a place for planting, taking into account the prospect of long-term residence of the peony. It could be decades. Unfortunately, flower growers often do not think about this.

Where is it better to plant peonies on the site: choosing a planting site

When planting peonies in the ground, choose places where virgin lands used to be.

It is important to avoid unfavorable predecessors: trees, shrubs, large perennials that greatly deplete the soil. You cannot plant a peony right away in the same place where another peony has just grown. In such cases, the soil must be allowed to rest for at least 2 years, or the soil must be completely changed at the planting site. Where you want to plant peonies, there should be no roots of trees, shrubs and large perennials on the site. And don't forget that the bushes will grow over time. Landing in lowlands, flooded for a long time by spring waters and torrential rains, is unacceptable. To plant peonies correctly, as practice shows, you need to ensure the flow of water from the garden.

Peonies can withstand a period of heating in spring no more than 4-5 days. When choosing a place for planting, remember that the groundwater level should be at least 70-80 cm below the surface level.For peonies designed for long-term planting, more than 6-7 years, this rate should be 100 cm.

The optimum acidity of the soil is close to neutral. and on slightly acidic soils (lactic-flowered peonies), but preferable (especially for all types and species) are neutral and slightly alkaline soils with an acidity index of PH 6-7.5.

To plant peonies in the way that proper agricultural technology suggests, the place must be sunny or partially shaded, up to 5-6 hours in summer. Shading is preferred at midday, especially during hot hours. For dark-colored ones, such shading is even desirable - the flowers do not fade. It is important that the site is protected from the winds. It is better to plant peonies where the distance from the walls of the house and solid fences to the garden is at least 1-1.5 m.

Inspection of the delenka before planting herbaceous peonies in the garden

Before planting peonies, the delenki must be examined. In this case, one should pay attention to its appearance and shape, parameters, freshness, the number of buds and the volume (weight) of the root mass. Also, before planting herbaceous peonies, you need to compare cuttings with optimal sizes (from maximum to minimum) in terms of the number of buds and weight for different in origin.

What should be the size of a peony cut for planting in open ground? Do not use too large cuttings with a large volume of roots, all the more, transplant whole adult plants. Here there is a complete analogy with failures in the case of and bushes: the development of young roots and shoots is not stimulated, and the existing roots are not able to provide adequate nutrition for the seedling.

The dimensions of the cut must be sufficient to:

• guarantee a successful start of the plant in a new place, providing an initial supply of substances for rooting;
• stimulate the primary intensive growth of young shoots and a new young root system, the fastest possible transition to the consumption of nutrients from the outside;
• contribute to the formation of a completely new plant, ready to bloom for a long time and fruitfully in a new place.

How many kidney renewals should there be? It is not so important how many kidneys have renewal: 2, 5 or more. The balance between the number of buds and the mass of storing roots is more important. Even if there are 10 buds in a normal size division, next year 1-3 shoots usually germinate (usually 1-2), and this is quite enough for the further successful development of the plant.

How many storage roots should there be? An ideal division has 3 roots sticking out in different directions, and a rhizome with 3-5 buds. But only a separately grown young plant can look like this. In practice, when dividing an adult plant into several parts, this does not work.

Most often, in the delenka, the roots look to one side and the buds are placed not in the center of the delenka, but closer to the edge. It does not really matter for the subsequent development of the plant after planting.

Before planting a peony cut, you should pay attention to some points.

The thickness of the storage roots must be at least 18-20 mm. Such roots are formed in sufficiently mature, already flowering plants and are able to stimulate the development of a young plant in a new place. Too thick, more than 30-40 mm, roots are also undesirable, since old roots have already significantly depleted their resources and are not able to provide a supply of nutrients for a long period.

The total length of storing roots in varieties of the lactic-flowered plant should be at least 12-15 cm, and in hybrid varieties - 15-20 cm. These dimensions are given for a delenka with one root; with two roots, the values ​​for each of the roots can be half as much.

In other words, it is not the length of the roots and their number that is important, but the value of the total mass of the nutrients of these roots.

How healthy cuttings for planting peonies look like are shown in these photos:

How to prepare peony flowers for planting

A label with the name of the variety should be attached to the purchased share. Conveniently cut labels from, for example, metal coffee or beer cans. The name of the variety is squeezed out with a pencil with a hard lead or a ballpoint pen. Such a label can be stored in the ground for several years and will help to identify the variety when dug up.

Before planting herbaceous peonies, carefully examine the rhizome. Delenka has protruding remains of stems, on these stems a label with the name of the variety is fixed. A case common for domestic production. When planting such a cut, the remnants of the stems will rot, and through them rot and infection will penetrate into the plant. The stems must be cut to the base of the root collar. Rub in places of cuts with ash. Attach the label securely to the divider.

Severely faded cut. If the cut is very wilted, it is recommended to place it for several days in slightly damp moss or in damp sand, moistened with a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate.

Delenka weighs more than 250-300 g. The roots are very long: more than 15-20 cm. Such large cuttings are often supplied abroad. When planted as a whole, such a plant outwardly develops faster in the first year after planting and often blooms in the second year. But this quick external effect is achieved due to the stocks in the root system of the delenka, and new roots develop weaker and there is no complete renewal. In the future, such a plant may develop more slowly than from a normal-sized cut. In the long term, it is better to divide such a division into 2 parts (this is sometimes possible) or to shorten the roots.

An exception to this rule is plants with a closed root system: such plants are carefully removed from the pot and transplanted whole with a lump of earth into a planting pit.

Delenka with a very thick and old root. Such divisions are often obtained by dividing perennial plants. In this case, the root should be shortened to 5-7 cm and the cuts should be dried for 2-3 days as mentioned above. If it is left entirely, this is a variant of the overweight division. In addition, in this case, most of the new adventitious and storage roots often appear at the end of the old root or in its middle part. The plant develops one-sided, one-sided.

Over time, the old root will die off and the new roots will lose their connection with the rest of the plant. Shortened roots are also preferable because they stimulate the development of adventitious and storage roots directly at the root collar and more symmetrical relative to the root collar. And this is favorable for the further development of the plant.

There are places affected by rot on the root collar or roots. Cut the lesions and wipe the cuts with ash, stand for a couple of days before planting in moss or a cool dry room, so that the wound surface has time to dry out.

This video demonstrates the preparation of peonies for planting:

When can you plant peonies in open ground: planting time in spring and autumn

The best time to plant peonies in central Russia: period from late August to early October. In the third decade of August, after the soil temperature drops to 12-15 ° C, suction roots begin to grow in peonies, contributing to the rooting of the planted cut. Adequate regrowth of roots takes 30-35 days and stops when the soil begins to freeze.

In the Moscow region, the beginning of soil freezing falls on the 10th of November, which means that the optimal time for planting peonies is until October 5-10. As a result, peonies can be planted in the middle for 35-40 days, starting from about August 20-25. Accordingly, in the south, the end of the planting of peonies is shifted to a later time, and in more northern regions - to an earlier one. These periods are considered classic for planting peonies.

However, there are times when peonies are planted in the Moscow region at a different time. And this has its own peculiarities.

Late autumn planting. If you have to plant later than normal, then after planting the peonies should be covered with an insulating layer of decaying materials. Usually, when planting peonies in late autumn, oak leaves and spruce branches are used for shelter.

In our conditions, a layer of 12-15 cm is sufficient, protected from rain and moisture by roofing material or film on top, but always open from the sides for ventilation. It is advisable to install a waterproof visor on the shelter.

With very late plantings of peonies in the fall in the ground, a shelter above the prepared place should be built in advance, it should be thicker - up to 20-25 cm, and immediately after planting it should be restored again.

There is another way to plant peonies in late autumn: you can pre-plant the delenki in a large pot of 7-10 liter capacity. The pots are placed in a non-freezing basement (underground) or stored in a shelter covered with a thick layer of peat or sand. In early spring, after the ground thaws and the spring water recedes, peonies from the shelter and pots are transplanted to a permanent place in the garden. It is possible to keep them in pots in a shady place in the garden until autumn, and then transplant to a permanent place.

Delenki purchased in the spring. In recent years, more and more deals have been made, primarily from foreign supplies. Peonies can be sold in two versions: with a closed root system - sprouted in a pot and with an open root system (delenki without soil).

A closed root system means that the cuttings are not just placed in a pot on the eve of the sale, but have already taken root and overgrown with roots. In this case, the peony with a lump of earth is transferred to a prepared place in the garden. Planting peonies in the spring in the ground can begin after the snow melts and melt water has melted and continue until the end of May (in the middle lane), in extreme cases - the whole season. After planting, abundant watering is required. For the first 2 weeks, it is advisable to cover the plant with a white cap during hot daytime hours. Usually, such an operation is successful, although the plant will lag somewhat behind in development.

A more difficult case is planting a delenka with an open root system. It should have a standard appearance: with normal buds, maybe very swollen, but in no case overgrown. For a successful planting in this way, I recommend following some rules.

Acquire and plant only in the first half of spring, before the onset of warm weather. In our strip until about April 20. In this case, the delenka has time for at least partial rooting in a sufficiently cold ground before the stems begin to grow. At later planting dates, try covering the peony with a protective layer of covering materials to keep the soil from heating up.

The method of planting peonies in spring is used as the main method by Finnish flower growers. Rationale: avoid wetting and decay of plantings during the first wintering period before the plants take root.

If, nevertheless, the cut was bought very early, it can be stored in a store package or an earthen mixture in the refrigerator until planting. At. growing in pots, not all the buds of the delenka awaken, and in the future not all shoots from the awakened ones will grow and develop.

Try not to get open plots with sprouted stems and leaves. They take root very poorly and may die.

If there is a need to divide the peony on your site in the spring (due to urgent redevelopment of the site or the transfer of plants to another place), you should start as early as possible, immediately after the soil thaws. Divide the bush as usual. Delenki are slightly dried for 1-2 days and planted in the ground. In this case, plant development and flowering are usually delayed by a year.

Delenka did not have time to plant in the fall and was placed in storage in the underground. When can peonies be planted in this case? If there was not enough time and a place for planting was not prepared in the fall, with a rainy fall or late receipt of planting material, many flower growers began to practice spring planting.

Before planting peonies in spring, the cuttings are placed in slightly moistened moss or in pots and stored underground. In the spring, when the soil thaws, it is immediately planted in the ground.

The peony was divided too early. The kidneys are not fully formed. With an early division of a peony, earlier than August 10, especially in late-flowering varieties, the buds of renewal in the divisions are small, and immediate planting will take place under unfavorable conditions with high soil and air temperatures that do not contribute to the rooting of the plant. In this case, the plots are placed for ripening in wet moss or in a trench in the sand in a cool place, protected from the sun, for ripening and planting in place at the usual time: early September - first ten days of October .. By this time, the kidneys will be fully formed in the stored plots resumption of shoots next year. And, in addition, after the soil temperature drops to 12-15 ° C, the growth of the suction roots will begin, contributing to the rooting of the delenka.

Small divisions. Small plots of small size, with a small mass and 1-2 buds, I grow in a school - a ridge with nutritious soil. Then, after 1-2 years, I transplant them in the fall with a lump of earth to a permanent place in the planting hole.

Another method used by experienced growers in recent years is growing small parcels, especially valuable varieties, in pots. The pots are left in the ground for the winter or stored for the first winter in cold, but not freezing rooms. After growing in a pot, in the fall of the first, sometimes second year, the plant is carefully removed from the pot with a lump of earth and transplanted to a permanent place in the planting hole.

Plant transplant. The best time to transplant young 1-2 year old plants is in spring or early fall. To plant peonies in the spring correctly, as advised by experienced flower growers, they must first be moistened, and in the fall they must also cut off the stems and then transfer them with a lump of earth to a prepared hole in a new place. When transplanting in the summer, it is better to wait for a rainy time. After transplanting, cover for some time (up to a week) with a plastic bag or lutrasil.

Transplanting an adult plant. The case is extraordinary and highly undesirable. All the stems of the plant are cut off. Then they dig in the rhizome from all sides and, carefully wrapping an earthen ball with a layer of gauze, transfer it to a new place.

What is the best way to plant peonies in the country: the depth of planting divinues (with video)

The size of the pit and the depth of planting the peonies depend on your capabilities and goals, that is, on how long you plan to plant the peony in the place of your choice, how close other plants are and from the water table.

Short-term landing. Sometimes, when acquiring peonies, you still definitely do not imagine their decorative possibilities or have not yet prepared (made room) for their permanent planting. In such cases, the peonies are planted in a temporary place tightly, it is possible on the ridges, for a period of 2-3 years. Sizes for fit can be within 30X30X30 cm.

If you want to plant a peony for a short time, for 5-7 years, pits 45X45X 40 cm are sufficient. Approximately the same size of a hole or slightly larger is sufficient for planting varieties of hybrid origin, since their lifespan is limited.

Landing for a long time. When planting lactic-flowered peonies, designed for several decades, the pit is increased to 80X80X50 cm or even up to 100X100X60 cm. An increase in the planting area in comparison with the depth stimulates the development of the root system to the sides, and not in depth. This simplifies further watering (reduces water consumption and watering time) and. In addition, the shallow location of the root system makes it easier to dig the peony before dividing it.

Often in the literature you can find the recommended dimensions 80X80X80 cm and even wider and deeper. Of course, such a pit is not bad at all, but consider your strengths and capabilities. Can you shovel more than half a cubic meter of dense earth? And will you be able to enrich it enough with organic fertilizers and improve its structure? For such a volume of land, at least 10 buckets of organic matter will be required, not counting everything else, often not less in volume.

Landing in holes in the ridges. With groundwater close to the surface, it is necessary to arrange high fill ridges of such a height so that the distance from their surface to the groundwater level is at least 70 cm.In this case, the depth of the pit is limited to 40-45 cm, and the area can be expanded to 80X80 cm.

Watch a video on how to plant peonies:

Drainage in the planting pit for peonies

Many novice flower growers, anxious about how to plant peonies in the garden, are interested in whether drainage is needed at the bottom of the pit? Quite often in the literature for drainage, it is recommended to pour a layer of rubble, stones and broken brick on the bottom of the pit. But such a recommendation cannot be universal and it is not entirely clear when it will be useful. If the soil around the pit, especially from the bottom, is clayey, there is no benefit from drainage, as from shards at the bottom of a pot without holes, there is still nowhere for the water to go. And if the soil around the pit is sandy, you do not need drainage, but, on the contrary, clay in the lower layer of the pit in order to keep moisture there longer.

Local drainage in the planting pit when planting peonies will not protect the flowers from nearby groundwater. In this case, it is necessary to install a general drainage system at the planting site, capable of lowering the level of standing groundwater. Or drainage grooves if the landing site is lowered. For the latter case, bulk elevated ridges have already been recommended.

How to plant peonies in spring and autumn: soil preparation

In the planting pit for peonies, there should be two layers of earth for different purposes. Potting mixes for the bottom and top of the pit play different roles in the life of the plant. Accordingly, they must differ in physical and chemical composition. It is important to consider the fact that in most cases we have to partially use the earth extracted from the pit. Its composition is usually far from what is desired. Therefore, organic and mineral fertilizers and deoxidizers are added to it. Exception: on the site - black soil, then only the addition of ash can be useful. The boundary between the upper and lower layers is at the level of the delenka planted in the pit.

The bottom layer of soil for peonies, located below the delenka, is the main storehouse of food. For peonies, a nutrient mixture is prepared from organic and mineral fertilizers with the land you have. Additives:

• well-rotted 2-3-year-old manure or compost. It should be at least 20-25% of the volume of the lower layer;
• clay (for sandy soils);
• 1-2 cups double superphosphate
• 1-2 glasses of wood ash;
• 1-2 glasses of dolomite flour (limestone, bone).

This mixture is needed in order to lower the acidity of the soil. In the conditions of central Russia, soils have a constant tendency to acidification and their use is necessary.

The top layer serves to securely hold the plant in the ground, protect it from direct atmospheric influences (from frost in winter and daytime overheating in summer). According to its composition, it should be well breathable and water-permeable, freely pass moisture and dissolved fertilizers into the lower feeding layer and provide protection of the rhizome from fungal diseases. No fertilizers should accumulate in it: all the suction roots of the peony are located below, in the feeding layer.

Top layer composition: light sandy soils without fertilizers, ash and a small amount of limestone (dolomite) flour.

How to plant grassy peonies correctly (with video)

So, everything is ready for planting: a place has been chosen, a hole has been dug, mixtures for the upper and lower layers have been prepared separately. A label with the name of the variety is attached to the delenka. To plant peonies in autumn or spring in open ground, when laying the bottom layer, you should compact it (just with your feet). This is necessary so that the divide stays in place after planting and does not sink deeper. When compacted, the bottom layer should be about 10-12 cm below the upper edge of the pit.

Then the cut is placed in the center on the bottom layer, trying to arrange it buds up, and place the storage roots horizontally or obliquely. Thus, the entire division is located in the upper layer of the earth. Its thickness is 10-12 cm. The buds of the delenka should be buried 3-5 cm in the ground. It is especially important to maintain this rate for varieties of lacto-flowered peony. If you break it, peonies may not bloom for a very long time. They will tend to grow the rhizome upward, creating peak tops around some of the stems. Having finally reached the optimal burial option, the shoots will begin to bloom. And hybrids bloom even when deepened above the norm.

To plant herbaceous peonies correctly, it is useful to put some sand around the delenka and under it. To do this, a thin sand lining is laid under the delenka, and a cylinder with a diameter of 8-10 cm is sometimes placed above the installed delenka, into which sand is poured to the soil level.

The rest of the pit is carefully filled with soil prepared for the top layer, trying not to move the division from its place. Slightly compact and sprinkle with a layer of 1-2 cm of loose earth above the level of the surrounding soil.

You can dust the planting site with dolomite (limestone) flour or ash on top: this makes it noticeable until spring and additionally deoxidizes the soil, preventing the occurrence of fungal diseases.

So, you have planted a cut with a certain number of buds. And you expect all of them to sprout next year. However, according to long-term observations, this does not happen. All buds never germinate.

For a better understanding of how to plant peonies, watch this video:

The history of growing peonies has more than two millennia, during which a great many varieties and varieties have been created. But no matter how much the peonies have changed, planting and caring for them in the open field has not undergone major changes since then.

In order to admire the lush carved foliage and spectacular flowering year after year, the summer resident will have to master all the subtleties of agricultural technology and find out the preferences of these amazing ornamental plants.

All species of peonies that exist in nature are from Eurasia and the American continent, represented by herbaceous perennials and dwarf shrubs. In Russian gardens, plants have long proven their unpretentiousness and the ability to grow and bloom in one place from 10 to 20 years without transplanting.

A place for planting and caring for peonies in the open field

A place for planting peonies is chosen so that the plant is as comfortable as possible for not only one season, but also several years. Since this culture belongs to light and heat-loving, up to 3 hours a day it can endure a transparent garden shade, but is afraid of cold winds and drafts, the peony is selected a site according to its requirements and shading for the hottest, noon hours.

For several years, the root system of peonies can deepen to 70–80 cm. To simplify the care of peonies in the open field, before planting, pay attention to the danger of flooding the site and stagnation of scarlet or groundwater. Constant humidity greatly increases the risk of root rot and the death of the entire bush.

Actively growing peonies need space, tightness leads to a deterioration in flowering, the appearance of diseases and pests.

Planting conditions for peony:

1. Planting holes are made at a distance of at least 1–1.5 meters from shrubs and other perennial plants.
2. A gap of at least 2-3 meters is left to the nearest tree.
3. You should not plant peonies directly under the walls of buildings and fences.
4. Between the bushes, depending on the type and variety, they leave from 70 to 180 cm of free space.

A bright, wind-protected area has been found, it's time to take care of the soil in which the peony is to grow. Soil with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction should be loose, aerated, nutritious. Sandy soil is flavored with humus, peat, and deoxidized with dolomite flour. Mix in garden soil as needed. Dense clay soil can be made more airy with river sand and a little peat. The sand is used to structure the nutritious, but rapidly caking black soil.

Rules for planting peonies for outdoor care

Unlike many horticultural crops, when planting it is important to leave the growth point on or above the soil, peonies deeply deepen. The buds, from which the stems will subsequently develop, are sunk into it by 3–7 cm, depending on the density of the soil.

If this is not done, the most sensitive and important part of the plant will be unprotected in rain, snow and sun. However, even with an excessively deep planting of a peony in open ground, caring for it can be not only laborious, but also in vain. Such plants form lush foliage in spring, but bloom weakly or refuse to form buds altogether.

Peony planting rules:

1. Planting pits for peonies are made up to 80 cm deep for tree-like plants and up to 60 cm for more common herbaceous varieties. The width of the pit is 60 and 50 cm, respectively.
2. The bottom, in order to avoid stagnation of water, is covered with drainage.
3. The pit is filled two-thirds with the prepared substrate mixed with 100-150 grams, one spoonful of ferrous sulfate and a liter jar of bone meal or sifted wood ash.
4. When the straightened peony roots fall into the ground, they are covered with loose soil by another 15–20 cm so that the buds are reliably hidden below the ground level.

Outdoor peony care in spring or autumn begins immediately after planting. The soil is carefully compacted and watered at the rate of 8-10 liters of water per bush. If the plants are in front of autumn rooting and wintering, they are thickly 10-centimeter layer of peat. With the onset of spring, care for the perennial continues.

Planting peonies in the ground: spring or autumn

The most convenient planting time for a grower and favorable for a peony is the beginning of autumn. By this time, the root system of the perennial grows, and it itself recovers after flowering and accumulates strength.

If you plan to plant in the open ground and care for peonies in the fall, it should be carried out 30-40 days before the onset of stable cold weather. In this case, an adult transplanted plant or a young seedling obtained from dividing a bush is guaranteed to take root and does not freeze in winter.

The timing of planting of decorative perennials depends on the characteristics of the climate of a particular region. The shorter the summer, the earlier it is worth taking care of the preparation of pits and planting material.

Landing dates:

1. Planting of peonies in open ground in Siberia takes place in August, September and October, and in the northern regions it ends 1.5–2 months earlier than in the south.
2. In the Urals, where the weather is extremely changeable, seedlings are brought into the ground from the second half of August to mid-September.
3. A week later, you can plant flowering perennials in the middle lane and in the North-West of the country.
4. And in the south of Russia, peonies can be planted without fear for the condition of the plant from September to mid-October.

When buying seedlings from a nursery or because of the early arrival of cold weather, planting is postponed to spring. Unfortunately, if the plants have an open root system, they do not tolerate this procedure very well. Weakened after wintering, they acclimatize for a long time, and sometimes even over the whole summer they cannot recover.

To exclude unpleasant consequences, planting of peonies in the ground in the spring is carried out very early, in the soil moist after the snow melts, until the hot weather sets in, and the plants themselves do not grow.

The exception is peonies with a closed root system in containers. They can be planted without fear from spring to autumn.

Caring for peonies after planting in open ground

Vegetation of peonies begins in early May and ends in late autumn. Caring for peonies in the open field in spring begins with very gentle loosening of the soil, watering, if necessary, and fertilizing.

Peonies are watered infrequently, but very abundantly, in order to completely wet the earthen clod and the roots that braid it. Since the plant has to grow foliage and prepare for flowering, the peony needs full and nitrogen.

Top dressing of peonies in the open field is done on wet ground. So that the mixture gets to the suction roots faster, a shallow hole is made around the bush at a distance of 10-15 cm, into which the solution is poured. In the summer, especially for young plants that have not reached the age of 3-4 years, foliar top dressing with urea is useful. They are introduced three times at intervals of 15–20 days from the moment the shoots appear.

In dry periods, peonies are watered at the rate of 10-15 liters per bush. It is especially important to maintain soil moisture in the first month after spring planting.

On blooming peonies, wilted flowers are regularly removed. On young plants less than 3 years old, any weak buds are also removed. All summer I weed the area under perennials, and in the fall, before the onset of cold weather, the shoots are cut off, and the soil is mulched. If the planting is carried out correctly, and the plants receive competent and sufficient care, the first flowering of the peony will begin in 2-3 years, gradually becoming brighter and more magnificent.

Planting a peony in autumn - video

Peonies are distinguished by high decorative flowering and foliage, unpretentiousness and longevity. They are planted in late summer, early autumn. This is due to the peculiarities of the growth of their root system. Important points that determine the lush flowering of plants are the choice of a permanent place, proper planting and care, especially in the first year of the growing season. The peony needs fertilization, abundant watering. It is better to avoid flowering in the first year of the growing season and cut the peduncles so that the plant takes root well and forms a healthy root system.

Peonies can be grown from seeds. However, this is the most difficult and time-consuming way of obtaining new plants, which does not guarantee the preservation of varietal traits. For these reasons, growers rarely use it. It is easier and faster to propagate peonies vegetatively:

• stem and root cuttings;
• kidney renewal;
• layering;
• dividing the bush.

The simplest and an effective way to obtain planting material is to divide the bush.

The division is subject to adults, bushes growing in one place for more than 8 years. The method allows not only to quickly, simply and in sufficient quantities to obtain planting material, but also to rejuvenate the bush.

The division of the bush is carried out in the first half of August and consists in the sequential execution of a number of actions.

1. 1. The selected bush is undermined on all sides with a garden pitchfork and carefully pulled out of the soil.
2. 2. The rhizome is freed from the earth: shaken, then washed with water.
3. 3. The bush is left to dry for 3-5 hours, then the shoots are cut to a height of 10-15 cm.

After that, you can start dividing the rhizome. Most often, the bush is easily separated into parts, and only in rare cases it has to be cut. Each division should have 2-3 buds of growth and roots at least 15 cm long.

Features of the root system

The underground part of peonies consists of rhizomes and roots proper, different in origin and vegetation.

The rhizome is the hibernating part of the plant on which renewal buds are formed. New shoots topped with flowers grow out of them every year.

Actually, the roots of the peony are divided into 3 types, differing in appearance, timing of development and the function performed.

• Storage roots - tuberous thick brown formations that develop due to thickening of adventitious roots that have accumulated nutrients.
• Accessory roots - extend directly from the rhizome and perform a penetrating function, going deep into the soil up to a meter. Having reached solid soil layers, they grow to the sides.
• Suction - thin white roots that grow annually from adventitious and die off for the winter. They provide the plant with a solution of nutrients, being the most working part of the root system.

The formation and growth of the root system of a peony takes place in 2 stages.

1. 1. In the spring, in April or May, adventitious roots grow. After flowering, when the growth of shoots and leaves stops, a supply of nutrients is formed in the adventitious roots. They thicken and turn into storage. Due to the presence of this stock, the shoots develop quickly and early next spring.
2. 2. In autumn (end of August, September), the suction roots grow vigorously.

When to plant flowers?

All manipulations with the roots of peonies (dividing the bush, transplanting) are best done before the start of the autumn growth of the suction roots, in the first half of August. Otherwise, the thin suction roots are severely injured and the plant does not take root well in a new place.

Additional arguments in favor of the August landing are:

• termination of the growing season of the entire aboveground part of the plant;
• formation of kidney growth or renewal;
• increased development of suction roots in September, thanks to which plants have time to take root before winter.

It so happens that it is possible to acquire the desired variety of peony only in the spring. In this case, you will have to carry out an unscheduled spring planting.

If the plant was purchased before the snow melted or the threat of frost on the soil disappeared and it is still too early to plant it in open ground, then:

• the peony is placed in a wide container and covered with soil;
• put in a dark cool place;
• watered occasionally.

As soon as the first reddish arrows of the sprouts appear, the peony is transferred to a lighter place.

At a daytime air temperature of 10 ° C, peonies can be planted in open ground, in a permanent place.

Seat selection

Varietal peonies have been growing in one place for more than a dozen years, so when planting it is worth taking it seriously. Light, soil composition and properties are significant factors.

Lighting

Peonies need good lighting, but they do not tolerate prolonged (several hours) exposure to direct sunlight: the buds fade and shrink.

The ideal place for a peony would be:

• the eastern side of the garden or cottage, with good morning and evening lighting and slight shading from midday rays;
• at a considerable (at least 1.5-2 m) distance from trees and bushes, walls and fences.

Lack of light negatively affects flowering: the number of buds, their size and color brightness are reduced.

The soil

Peonies grow on any soil, but they also look different:

• Flowers growing on sandy soils are characterized by a large number of thin shoots with small leaves and numerous small buds.
• On clayey lands, peonies develop powerful shoots, large leaves and large buds, but the development of the plant is slow. Flowering occurs later.
• They look worst on peaty soils, characterized by an acidic environment.

For peonies, cultivated, well-drained, slightly acidic or neutral loamy soils with high air and moisture permeability are needed.

If there are none on the site, then you will have to take appropriate measures:

• clay soils are enriched with humus or low-lying (black) peat and sand is added;
• acidic ones are neutralized by adding lime, dolomite flour or chalk: 1 kg / m2.

When choosing a landing site, you should pay attention to the moisture content of the soil on the site. Peonies are hygrophilous, but at the same time they cannot stand even a slight stagnation of water, especially in spring and autumn.

To prevent root decay when planting, drainage is placed on the bottom of the pits: fine gravel or broken red brick with a layer of 20 cm, sprinkled with sand on top.

Choosing the right place for planting is the key to quick adaptation of the plant, good development and lush flowering.

Landing rules

Prepare for planting peonies in advance. 1-2 weeks before the planned date, cone-shaped holes are dug. Their size is determined by the height of the plants.

The planting pits are 3/4 filled with nutrient soil, which is used as:

• grass compost with the addition of charcoal or ash;
• a mixture of humus, sand, black peat and sod land, taken in equal amounts, with the addition of mineral fertilizers: 100 g of superphosphate, 300 g of bone meal or wood ash, 1 tbsp. l. iron sulfate;
• humus or compost, enriched with superphosphate (200 g) and potassium sulfate (100 g), with the addition of 300 g of wood ash and 100 g of lime.

The nutrient mixture will provide early development of the peony in the spring and will greatly facilitate maintenance. The soil must settle, which is important for a favorable plant survival. Immediately before planting, the pit filled with nutrient soil is spilled well, allowing the water to be completely absorbed.

After 1 - 2 weeks, the separated parts of the peony are placed in the pit, deepening the growth buds by 5 cm. With a deeper embedding, the plant will need a lot of effort to distill the shoots. Growth buds left on the surface can freeze in winter. The plant is well watered. After that, mulch with compost or the remaining soil mixture without fertilizers.

Care

Peony care is simple and consists in carrying out the activities traditional for the florist: feeding, watering, weeding and loosening, removing faded buds and preparing for winter.

The most active period of development of peonies is the first year after planting. At this time, the plants are looked after with great care.

Top dressing

In the first year of the growing season, from May to mid-June, complex mineral fertilizers enriched with nitrogen are applied once every 2 weeks.

• Dry mixtures are scattered and mixed with the ground around the bush, followed by watering.
• The near-trunk circle is spilled with a solution of mineral fertilizers.

Fertilizing the soil is combined with foliar dressing, carried out 3 times with an interval of 2-3 weeks:

1. 1.the emerging reddish shoots are sprayed with a urea solution (30 or 40 g per 1 liter of water);
2. 2. the bush is treated with a less concentrated urea solution (30-40 g per 5 liters of water), adding a micronutrient tablet to it;
3. 3. the latter is carried out with a nutrient solution from micronutrient fertilizers: 2 tablets per 5 liters of water.

Foliar dressing is especially important in the first year of bush growth, since the plant has not yet formed a full-fledged root system.

Subsequently, feeding is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. 1.prophylactic: immediately after the snow melts, the soil around the bush is spilled with a solution of potassium permanganate (1-2 g per 5 l of water);
2. 2. nitrogen-potassium: carried out during the active growth of shoots (May) using rotted organic matter with the addition of nitrogen and potassium: 15-20 g of fertilizer is evenly distributed in the soil at a distance of 15-20 cm from the rhizome;
It is carried out by:

• in the first 2-3 weeks after the emergence of shoots and in the absence of rain: once with an interval of 2-3 days, 15-20 liters under a bush;
• subsequently moistened less often, but abundantly: once a week, 2-3 buckets of water are poured under each adult bush.

The next day after moistening, to retain moisture and enrich the soil with oxygen, the near-stem circle is carefully loosened, combining this procedure with the removal of weeds.

Regular watering is especially important during flowering and after flowering, so it is carried out until the end of August.

Preparing for winter

In September, peonies are prepared for wintering:

• bushes spud;
• shoots of herbaceous forms are cut to a height of 10-15 cm;
• the bush is covered with a layer of spruce branches, dry foliage, sawdust or shavings.

Don't assume that the larger the dividend, the better. On the contrary, the peony in this case will use the reserves of the storing roots for several years and not develop new ones. And after a few years, to your great surprise, it will suddenly refuse to bloom. And again transplant and division will be required.

If you buy peonies at fairs, carefully examine them. They should not have serious defects, each must certainly have at least 2 large kidneys. Good planting material is supplied to us by European nurseries, you can subscribe to rare varieties. But the whole trouble is that they come to us in the spring, when it is not time to plant peonies. In such cases, I plant them in spacious pots in the garden land without (!), Before leaving to the dacha I keep them on the glassed-in balcony, and in the garden I bury these pots in the ground until autumn.

Delenki bought in spring must be planted in pots.Photo
I slowly prepare pits for them and then transplant them to a permanent place. During the summer, I water them and feed them in the same way as other peonies. A little trick: in order not to damage the roots of young peonies, when planting them in pots, I spread a layer of gauze inside, leaving free edges, beyond which the peony can be easily removed later.

Preparing the cut for planting

The roots obtained as a result of division must be dipped for an hour in a solution of the drug "Maxim" or potassium permanganate. Dry, dust the cuts with wood ash, equip with tags.

Soak the cuttings in Maxim (left), then dust with ash (right).Photo

Experience has shown that confusion is inevitable when working with several varieties at the same time. Great, durable tags come from beer cans. It is necessary to cut the strips and squeeze out the name of the variety on them with a ballpoint pen or a hard pencil. When planting, bury it next to the peony, since it will not bloom soon and it will be possible to determine the variety only after 3-4 years. Such tags are eternal, nothing is done with them, they do not rust and, unlike plastic ones, retain the inscription.

If planting is postponed for some time, the delenki are wrapped in slightly damp sphagnum moss - this is an excellent aseptic material, and then in craft paper. Polyethylene cannot be used, the roots will be covered with mold, as they will not "breathe". The workpieces are placed in a cool room, for example, in a dark garden closet. By this time, the nights are already getting chilly, and these will be the most suitable storage conditions.

Pit preparation

The preparation of the pits is a rather responsible matter, because the vital foundation is laid for a plant that will sit in this place for more than one year, but almost decades. The long-lived peony makes us quite stringent requirements for the quality of the soil substrate and location in the garden. These plants do not like acidic soils; the soil must be alkalinized with dolomite flour or slaked lime. For the same reason, it is better not to get carried away. It is best to use mature. Perfectly deoxidizes the soil and woody, which also serves as a source of trace elements.

The preparation of the pits is quite a responsible matter.Photo

The holes are dug spacious and deep enough, measuring 60x60x60 cm, since the peony needs to create special, exclusive conditions for growth and flowering. In ordinary garden soil, the peony will not show all its excellent qualities, it will bloom weakly and have a blighted appearance.

1-2 buckets of rotted cows must be placed on the bottom - this is a "depot" of nutrients that will provide the peony with everything it needs. Fresh manure is also allowed, only in this case it will need to be covered with a layer of earth of at least 15 cm so that the peony roots do not come into contact with it. By the time the peony develops a full-fledged root system, this manure will already turn into humus and will not be dangerous.

Rotted manure should be put at the bottom of the pit.Photo

Then the pit is filled with ordinary garden soil with compost (3-4 buckets), the addition of ash (1 liter can), or phosphate rock (1 glass each), complex fertilizers with microelements (2 generous handfuls). According to science, it is advisable to prepare the pits in advance so that the earth in them has time to settle. But if they have just been dug, it does not matter, after filling them almost to the top (leaving 10-15 cm), the soil in them must be slightly trampled.

The lower (fertile) part of the mixture in the pit must be tamed.Photo

Landing

Delenki are placed in the center of the pit so that the kidneys are no deeper than 3 cm from the surface of the ground. With a deeper planting, the peony will not bloom, do not wait. Therefore, the main task is maintain the correct planting depth... Do not rely on an eye, you must literally plant with a school ruler (for this purpose I am holding a piece) or a specially made yardstick.

Having covered the delenki with ordinary garden soil, install home-made improvised "huts" over them - this will save new plantings from the fact that someone, uneven hour, will step on them. After some time, the pit will sag a little, it will be necessary to add mulching material, preferably a mixture of peat and ash. This must be done without fail, so that rainwater does not linger in the hole in the fall, and melt water does not accumulate there in the spring.

Install homemade "huts" over the parcels - this will protect new plantings.Photo

The peony does not like excessive moisture, therefore, before planting peonies in your area, provide a common one. High standing and peat bogs in general will be an obstacle to breeding peonies, no matter how much you would like to have these beautiful plants in your garden.

In our market, which brings together large online stores, you can choose suitable varieties of peonies for your site. Take a look at the section.

Usually planted in a row along, so they are better ventilated and less susceptible to disease. The distance from the edge of the path should be at least 1 m, the same amount should be left between the plants. Use a cord for marking. Pull it parallel along the path, backing off the desired distance. Place pegs in the center of the future pits. Be sure to keep the same distance between them. With negligence, then all these flaws will come out and will get on your nerves for many years.

When planting, be sure to take into account the height of the plants: to obtain a harmonious picture, you should adhere to the joint placement of varieties of the same height. When planning to plant several varieties, be sure to keep this point in mind.

It is important that all plants in a group are of the same height.Photo

Peonies of the same variety look good along the paths; this is not difficult to achieve by dividing some of your old peonies. Under one indispensable condition - the delenki must be of equal value, only in this case, bushes of the same strength and beauty will develop from them. And on monoclumba it is better to plant varieties of different flowering periods, which will pass the baton to each other, maintaining the decorativeness of the flower garden for a month.

In the spring, when juicy red shoots appear from the ground, start a complex of agrotechnical measures for feeding and prevention. Contrary to the existing recommendations that in the first years nothing should be done with peonies, they say, well-filled pits will give them everything they need. But the paradox is that they will not get to this "nutrition" soon, in about 3-4 years, and we will give them a good start with our care and achieve the long-awaited early flowering.

Gardeners say that peonies need to be looked after for a whole year, and you can admire the flowering for only 10 days. In order to fully enjoy their beauty, you need to study the features and requirements for the conditions of different varieties. In peonies, planting and care in the open field should be carried out as carefully as possible, since these are fragile flowers. They grow in one place for 15-20 years and do not require transplanting. Before planting peonies in the country, you need to study the features of agricultural technology.

Brief description of the culture

These shrub plants reach a height of 1 m and are unpretentious. Peonies have a large rhizome from which several stems grow. The flowers are voluminous and are 15-20 cm in diameter. Gardeners are engaged in growing peonies in the open field because of their rich aroma and the absence of difficulties in care.

This herbaceous plant is valued for its longevity, because a bush can grow in a permanent place in the garden for more than 15 years. Even after flowering ends, lush green foliage remains until autumn.

Breeders have bred more than 5 thousand varieties of peonies, which differ in color, growing season, and size.

Agrotechnical conditions for growing

Under favorable conditions and with proper care, these flowers have been growing in one place for more than 50 years. The specificity of agricultural technology for growing tree peonies in the open field is that development is slow in the first year. Only in the second or third season does the bloom become abundant. With ignorance of this feature of the culture, many gardeners transplant it to another place, which only slows down its growth.

Soil requirements

Peonies should be planted in areas with loamy soil. They grow well in lowlands and places with high humidity. Gardeners who do not know where to plant peonies, if there is groundwater, are advised to make high beds or drainage ditches. Otherwise, the roots in the soil will rot and the plant will die.

Development and flowering depend on how prepared the land is for planting. As a rule, to enrich the soil, it is necessary to use organic fertilizers and maintain physical properties, in particular, moisture, friability.

Climatic conditions

The southern regions of Russia are considered the most favorable for cultivation. Before planting peonies, you need to assess the illumination of the site and choose a suitable place. These are light-loving plants, so they must be cultivated in sunny areas. Peonies tolerate partial shade well for 2-3 hours a day, but they do not like strong shading.

They cannot be planted within the radius of the root system of trees, shrubs, near houses. It must also be remembered that the incinerating sun harms all plants. Therefore, in those regions where the air temperature stays at + 30 ° C for a long time, peonies should be planted away from stone walls, slate fences, which glow the sun and reflect it on the flower bed.

When is it better to plant peonies

The timing of agrotechnical work depends on the climatic zone. It is necessary to adhere to the basic rule - you should plant peonies in open ground one month before the onset of the first frost. Accordingly, the earlier the cold weather sets in, the earlier you need to bury the rhizome in the ground.

When it is better to plant peonies - in spring or autumn, it is impossible to answer unequivocally. This is most often done in late August or early September. In this case, they will bloom 2-3 years after rooting. If the peony was purchased in the spring, you can dig it in a pot and keep it in a cool place before planting it in the open ground.

The earth must be constantly moistened, and if the first shoots have appeared, provide good lighting.

Benefits of spring planting

There is a belief that autumn is the best time for agricultural work. This opinion is due to the fact that when planting peonies in the spring, the active development of green mass and depletion of roots begins. Against the background of weak immunity, seedlings do not take root well and grow. Novice gardeners find it difficult to choose when it is more correct to plant peonies - in summer or spring. But the material purchased in February does not have to be kept for six months at home. As soon as warm weather sets in in spring, peonies should be planted in open ground immediately.

The advantage of early work on the site is that the roots do not lose their ability to grow at this time of the year. And until the hot days come, there is a high probability that the flowers will take root. However, it is worth remembering that after planting in spring, the plant will need increased attention and care.

Benefits of autumn planting

Peonies need to be rooted no earlier than August and no later than mid-September. As a rule, by the end of summer, the plant has time to form buds, which will give foliage and buds in spring.

With the arrival of the first frost, the growth of flowers will slow down, it is September that is considered the optimal time for the reproduction of young bushes. Breeders call the following advantages of planting peonies in the fall in the ground:

• the flower takes root faster in a new place;
• strengthening of immunity during wintering;
• building up rhizomes for the next season;
• you can get flowering as early as next spring.

In order to understand how and when it is better to plant peonies in autumn, you need to focus on the climate and monitor weather changes. All work must be carried out one month before the onset of cold. You can also focus on the lunar calendar.

Technology and rules for planting in open ground

Having chosen a suitable place for the future flower garden, you need to start watering it in 2-3 days. This time is enough for the earth to fill with moisture and become soft. Then dig a hole 70 cm deep, 1 m in diameter.You need to plant peonies, adhering to the following rules:

• put a mixture of humus and a potassium-phosphorus supplement on the bottom of the dug hole. You can replace mineral fertilizers with wood ash;
• if a large bush was purchased, its roots must be carefully divided. It is most often impossible to do this manually, so you will need garden shears;
• the roots must be laid out in the pits. It should be covered with earth in such a way that the upper kidney is located 1 cm below the ground;
• the soil needs to be pressed down a little to release the air;
• be sure to water abundantly after planting.

Care features

We must not forget about the importance of preparing the plant for wintering. Only if a number of rules for planting and care are observed, herbaceous peonies will give abundant flowering next year. Immediately after the roots are embedded in the ground, the active growth and development of the flower begins. All nutrients are concentrated in the thickened parts of the plant; for their distribution, it is necessary to provide the beds with abundant and regular watering.

In addition, you need to think in advance about actions to protect and control pests and diseases. If you properly care for peonies in the garden, abundant flowering will not be long in coming.

Watering

The plant especially needs soil moisture if it is dry autumn or hot spring. It is watering that stimulates rooting in the open field.

Caring for peonies in this regard consists in making grooves at a distance of 20 cm from each bush, which are filled with water. It is advisable to water in the evening, when the moisture will not evaporate in the sun and will reach the young roots.

On average, an adult plant needs to be watered once every 10 days. The norm for water consumption is 3-4 buckets per bush. When growing peonies, remember that the peak of watering occurs at the beginning of summer, when the buds are formed. On especially hot days, it is necessary to additionally moisten the ground under the bush, trying not to get on the foliage.

Top dressing

These perennial herbaceous plants are demanding on the composition of the soil. In the first year, there is no need for root feeding, provided that the bed has been properly prepared. In the future, gardeners enrich the soil in two stages:

• for the first time in early spring, when the snow has melted, 10-20 g of potassium and 15 g of nitrogen should be added to the ground per bush. Breeders recommend using mineral fertilizers. To do this, dilute 50-70 g of the flower mixture in water and water the peonies;
• during the period of bud formation, it is necessary to re-fertilize. To do this, you need to dissolve 10-15 g of potassium and nitrogen, 15-20 g of phosphorus. Water each bush with the resulting mixture.

It must be remembered that any kind of fertilizer can be applied only in the evening after watering or rain. If feeding is carried out in dry soil, flowers may die.

To prepare for winter, beds with peonies need to be covered with peat or spruce branches. Sawdust is suitable for this purpose. It is not recommended to cover flowers with cut leaves, as they become a favorable breeding ground for insects.

Diseases and pests

Not all varieties of peonies are susceptible to the effects of a virus or fungus. For example, American terry hybrids die immediately, while older subspecies remain resistant.
Among the diseases, the most common are:

1. - a fungus that appears as brown spots on the leaves. It is quickly transmitted, and all bushes on the site can be affected in 2-3 days. With this disease, the green mass of peonies dries up, the growth of the rhizome stops. As a preventive measure, you need to cut off the leaves and shoots in the fall and burn them, weed the ground regularly. It is also necessary to carry out a disinfecting spraying. To do this, you need to dissolve 200 g of nitrafen in 10 liters of water.
2. - a disease in the form of a white bloom on buds, leaves. First, it affects the stem, which in this place then darkens and breaks. The pathogens hibernate in the soil and become active in damp weather. For disinfection, it is necessary to spray the bushes with a 0.6% solution of copper oxychloride or 1% Bordeaux liquid. Stems or leaves that have been affected by the disease must be cut off.
3. - a virus that appears on the green mass in the form of yellow and light green stripes. The disease does not inhibit the development of the bush in any way. Infection occurs while working with garden tools that are not disinfected with potassium permanganate. Affected shoots must be cut to the rhizome and burned away from the site.

# gallery-2 (margin: auto;) # gallery-2 .gallery-item (float: left; margin-top: 10px; text-align: center; width: 33%;) # gallery-2 img (border: 2px solid #cfcfcf;) # gallery-2 .gallery-caption (margin-left: 0;) / * see gallery_shortcode () in wp-includes / media.php * /

Pests do not bring a lot of damage to these flowers, but you need to be prepared to fight them. Gall nematodes, sod ants, bronze beetles can annoy. Peonies planted in partial shade suffer from butterfly caterpillars that gnaw the buds. To combat pests, it is necessary to regularly spray the bushes with pesticide preparations Kinmiks, Aktara.

Reproduction methods

When properly grown and cared for, peonies thrive and bloom profusely. The natural desire of every gardener will be to propagate flowers in their area. At the same time, it is not necessary to buy expensive planting material. Breeding of peonies is carried out by seeds and dividing the bush, root cuttings. Each of the methods has its own characteristics, but they are united by their ease of performing the procedure.

Sowing with seeds

It will take a long time to get seedlings using this method. Breeders claim that peonies grown from seeds begin to bloom only in the 5-6th year. It is necessary to collect material from mid-August to early September. The seeds will need to be buried into the ground to a depth of 5 cm. With early planting, they have time to go through 2 stages of stratification. The next year, seedlings are formed, while part of the seeds will germinate in a season.

If purchased material is used in winter, it must be embedded in moistened sand in a pot and heated with an electric heating pad.

The temperature should be 30 ° C during the day and 15 ° C in the evening. The earth must be periodically moistened, and when the first shoots appear, transplant them into boxes with enriched soil. At this stage, the temperature should be no higher than 10 ° C. In the second half of August, seedlings can be embedded in the soil on the site.

Dividing the bush

This is the easiest way, the favorable time for which is the end of summer. During this period, the roots of the plant continue to grow, and the temperature of the air and soil decreases. For reproduction, you need to choose adult bushes over the age of 5 years, in which the root system is already sufficiently developed and stable.

The selected plant must be carefully dug out, rinsed with water underground and left in a cool place for 3 hours. After that, shorten the stems 10 cm from the rhizome. The most suitable division is with 2-3 replacement kidneys and adventitious roots.

Disinfect the selected planting material with a weak solution of potassium permanganate and lubricate all sections with a mixture of ash and clay. It can also be placed in a solution of the Heteroauxin or Cornerost rooting stimulant for 8 hours. Prepared delenki are planted in moistened pits and continue to look after them in accordance with the basic rules.