A home sauna has the simplest design and small dimensions, which greatly facilitates its construction. The most important process is the arrangement of the stove and ventilation; everything else will not require much effort and material costs. An inexpensive and convenient do-it-yourself sauna at the dacha is not only an opportunity have a nice rest, but also a reason for pride.

To build a sauna, choose a site located near the house, where it is possible to dig a hole for a septic tank. It is not advisable for them to grow nearby big trees, destroying the foundation of the building with their roots. For the convenience of those steaming in the sauna, there should be at least 2 people per person. cubic meters premises.

If we also add the size of the locker room and washing room, then the minimum construction area will take 10 square meters. m. The pit for draining water can be located under the washing room, which will save space.

The sauna body can be made of brick, timber, or even metal frame, insulated and covered with siding. The interior must be upholstered with clapboard or ordinary boards. The choice of tree is very important: the most a good option is linden or alder. Conifers very useful, inexpensive and have pleasant smell, but at high temperatures they release resin.

The main element of the sauna is the stove. It’s best if it’s real, made of red brick and heated with wood. But the construction of such a furnace can only be built by an experienced craftsman, so without special knowledge it is not worth undertaking its construction. The optimal solution there will be a purchase of ready-made metal furnace with a built-in heat exchanger and a tank for heating water.

Construction of the foundation

For construction columnar foundation you will need:

• support pillars;
• garden auger and shovel;
• tape measure and level;
• container for a septic tank;
• crushed stone and sand;
• concrete solution.

Step 1. Marking the area

First, markings are made: the location of the corner support is determined, a peg is driven in and the distance to the second corner is measured. Next, perpendicular and lines mark the sides and 2 more corners of the building. You should get a regular rectangle. The perimeter of the future sauna and internal partitions marked using a rope stretched between the pegs. Support posts must be installed at each corner, under load-bearing walls at a distance of 2 m and at the intersection of internal partitions.

In addition to the location of the corner posts, you should immediately determine the location for drain hole. If available large capacity for a septic tank, the dimensions of the pit must correspond to the volume of the container, otherwise you need to dig a square pit with a side of 1 m and a depth of approximately 1.2 m. Holes for support pillars are easiest to make using a hand drill. For a light wooden sauna, the depth of the holes for the foundation pillars is 40-50 cm.

Step 2. Preparing the pit

Sand is poured into a 15 cm layer at the bottom of the pit, compacted and a layer of crushed stone is poured. After this, install a container with perforated walls, level and strengthen the top. If there is no barrel, the walls of the pit are lined with bricks, leaving small, uniform gaps in the masonry for water to seep through. Starting from half of the pit and up to the top, the masonry must be made monolithic to avoid soil shedding.

Step 3. Construction of the foundation

Logs are suitable for support posts, metal pipes And concrete pillars. Be sure to choose the densest tree possible, preferably pine. To avoid rotting, the surface of the logs is thickly coated with bitumen mastic and dried.

Metal pipes are first treated with a primer with anti-corrosion properties. Crushed stone is poured into the bottom of the holes, after which the pillars are installed and leveled in height and vertically. Next, the holes are filled with soil mixed with sand, spilled with water for greater compaction, and compacted.

The top of the pillars is covered with roofing felt and the base beams are laid along the perimeter of the future building. The beams are secured with staples or nails to the support posts. Additional bars are installed inside the perimeter in increments of 20 cm and parallel to each other. This will be the basis for flooring. You can replace the timber with a reinforcement grid, install formwork and fill it with concrete.

Even small brick buildings require skill, especially when building corners. It is much easier to build a frame from timber and cover it with boards. After insulation, such a building will be no worse than a brick one. You can assemble a frame from glued or profiled timber, which is the most popular option for a country sauna.

So, to assemble the frame you will need:

• timber 100x150 mm;
• wooden slats 40x60 mm;
• support beams;
• level;
• screws or nails;
• primer;
• metal staples;
• glassine;
• mineral wool;
• foil vapor barrier;
• boards for cladding.

Step 1. Installation of supporting structures

First, the corner support beams are mounted: they are secured with spacers, aligned vertically using a level and secured to the base with metal brackets. From above, along the perimeter, the frame is secured with beams. Next, intermediate vertical beams are installed along the walls every meter and secured with brackets to the lower and upper trim.

Door and window frames are mounted between the racks, and transverse slats are nailed to strengthen the structure. At the corners, braces made of timber are installed, directed in different directions.

Step 2. External cladding of the frame

The wooden frame is sheathed with boards 3 cm thick. Work begins from the corner and from the bottom: the first board is applied to the supports parallel to the ground, leveled so that the edge does not go beyond the corner, and nailed. It is not advisable to join the boards in the middle of the span; their edges should meet at one of the vertical posts. The rafters are sheathed last, and it is necessary to leave a hole in the roof for the chimney.

Step 3. Insulation of walls, floor and ceiling

The inside of the walls is covered with glassine or polyethylene film to waterproof the insulation. The film is overlapped along the edges by 10-12 cm, and the seams are sealed with construction tape. Mineral wool slabs are tightly inserted between the frame beams, the thickness of the insulation layer is at least 10 cm.

The top of the cotton wool is covered with foil material, which acts as a vapor barrier. The foil side must be placed on top to reflect heat from inside the room.

The floor and ceiling can be insulated using polystyrene foam 10 cm thick. The base boards are covered with polyethylene film, the edges of which should extend onto the walls by about 3-5 cm. Foam plastic is laid between the joists, cracks and gaps in the seams are blown out polyurethane foam, and a screed is poured on top. You can also make a wooden floor, although the boards will last less in such conditions. You can lay tiles over the screed - they are easy to clean and are not afraid of changes in temperature and moisture.

Where the stove will be installed, a fireproof base must be made: a square square is nailed to the floor a metal sheet, the dimensions of which exceed the area of ​​the oven, and bricks are laid on top in dense rows on edge. A clay-sand mixture serves as the binding solution. Only red fired brick is used; other types are not suitable.

The ceiling is insulated in the standard way: polystyrene foam is inserted between the ceilings, all cracks are filled with foam, and the vapor barrier layer is secured with foil on top using a stapler. After this, the wiring is laid, the walls and ceiling are sheathed with clapboard.

Interior arrangement

After the construction and thermal insulation of the building, you can proceed to the main part - installing the stove and interior design saunas. It is very important to properly insulate wooden surfaces located next to the oven. Red brick and aerated concrete blocks In extreme cases, you can use sheathing made of galvanized sheets.

To set up a sauna you will need:

• metal stove;
• stainless steel tank;
• connecting pipes and tap;
• boards for benches;
• self-tapping screws;
• roulette;
• screwdriver;
• chimney with a protective cap.

Step 1. Installation of the furnace

Lay out a wall made of brick or aerated concrete blocks, the width corresponding to the width of the oven. If you don’t want to mess with bricks, you can cover the adjacent walls and part of the ceiling with special felt, and then cover it all with galvanization. A stove is installed on a brick base, the chimney is led to the attic, pipes and a water tank are connected to the stove.

To avoid fire in the rafter system, around chimney They knock down a box from the boards and fill it with a mixture of sand and clay. The pipe ends up in the middle of the box and cannot heat wooden elements the buildings. A protective frame is also built around the stove from scraps of lumber. Wooden fencing can be round, square or rectangular; it should not rise above the heating elements by more than 5 cm. A distance of 7-10 cm is left between the heater and the fence.

Step 2. Installing shelves and doors

The lower shelf is attached to the walls at a level of 50-65 cm from the floor, the upper shelf - at a distance of 1 m from the sauna ceiling. Usually they make 3 shelves with a width of 30 cm, depending on the build of the household. For the manufacture of shelves, the same boards are used as for the interior lining. They are first thoroughly sanded, impregnated with an antiseptic, and then with a special varnish.

It is recommended that sauna doors open outward. IN door leaf you can install a window from frosted glass. The bottom edge of the door must be trimmed by 5 cm to ensure air flow. Roller or magnetic latches are used as locks, which, if necessary, open very easily.

Step 3. Laying stones

Stones are chosen for the sauna round shape, no cracks or deep potholes. Before installation, they must be washed and dried well. First, large stones are laid, trying not to leave gaps between them, and then the remaining space is filled with small stones. During the operation of the sauna, the stones will have to be periodically inspected, washed and broken pieces removed.

Step 4. Finishing

At the final stage, lamps, towel hooks, and a clothes hanger are installed. It is best to mount light bulbs above the doorway or in the corner opposite the shelves. To avoid getting burned by a lamp in a cramped room, it is recommended to cover it with a decorative grille. It should be borne in mind that all lighting devices must be moisture resistant.

Video - Do-it-yourself sauna in the country

Often, land plots only require the construction of vital buildings. Small area plot, the use of every piece of land for planting or thoughtful simply does not leave room for additional buildings. In this case, there is only one solution left for lovers of bath procedures: building a mini-bath. What is a mini-sauna for a summer residence, how to build it and what is needed to build it - let's figure it out.

Read in the article

Mini-sauna for a summer residence. Advantages and disadvantages

The main advantage of a mini-bath is the area occupied during its construction. The second, no less important parameter is the cost of building a mini-bath in the country.

Typically, mini-ovens for small volumes are metal structures designed to generate steam. As an example, consider the Varvara “Mini” sauna stove.

Sauna stove Varvara Kamenka mini

This is a wood stove with overall dimensions 48x66 cm and height 88 cm. Steel structure The top of the firebox itself is covered with a casing, inside of which there are convection channels. The air, heating up in the firebox area, escapes into the heater through the holes in the casing, thereby quickly heating the stones. As a result, the oven heats up very quickly, warming up a small room in a very short time.

In addition to this, there are more simple designs stoves in which the heater is heated directly by exposure to heat from fuel combustion. When using in a steam room, you need to provide a place for storing fuel, or a canopy not far from the bathhouse.

For small steam rooms, in some cases it is advisable to use electric sauna stoves and electric heaters.

On a note! Installing a heat exchanger on the chimney will allow you to quickly warm up the air in the steam room. But this option is possible with the appropriate dimensions of the bath.

Mini-pools for baths

Additional installation in the bathhouse will expand the functionality of the bathhouse and add comfort. It is worth noting that it is better to initially provide for the installation of a swimming pool in the bathhouse design, since mini-pools for a bathhouse require water supply systems, water drainage, and heating.

For this reason, embedding a pool into a finished bathhouse is quite troublesome and costly. There are several types of pools designed for installation in a bathhouse:

• Stationary. In this case, the pool is initially included in the bathhouse design, a pit is dug under it, the walls of the pool are concreted and covered with a decorative coating. This type of pool is used mainly for full-size bath buildings.
• Font. A metal or plastic structure designed for installation in a pre-prepared bed. To put it into operation, you only need to connect the font to the water supply system.
• Portable pools. Metal structures with plastic trim. Just like a font, they are installed in a prepared bed, after which they are connected to the water supply system.

Swimming pools can be equipped with water heating systems and hydromassage equipment, but in this case, connecting them requires the help of qualified specialists.

Mini sauna for a summer residence

It is distinguished from a bath by the type of steam and the temperature. In order to make a sauna out of a steam room, it is enough to install an electric steam generator, an electric heater or a wood-burning sauna inside the steam room. When using a steam room as a sauna, it is recommended interior decoration from one type of wood: pine, linden or alder. A mini-sauna in a country house should be as closed as possible, almost airtight. Particular attention should be paid to its thermal insulation. This is necessary to maintain a high temperature inside the sauna for a long time, with minimal energy consumption.

portable sauna

How to build a small sauna for your dacha with your own hands

Before construction, you should familiarize yourself with the designs of already built baths and choose the most optimal option. Do-it-yourself mini-bath projects for a summer residence (both frame and timber) are quite widespread, and finding them is not difficult. Before you build a small bathhouse with your own hands, you need to decide on the type of bathhouse, the material for its construction and its location.

After everything organizational matters decided, you should proceed directly to the construction process. First of all, build the foundation and then begin building the walls and interior decoration.

Related article:

This technology is used to speed up the construction of not too heavy buildings and other architectural structures. In the article you will find step by step instructions erection of the structure and useful tips specialists.

The main requirement during construction is accuracy. Everything needs to be done calmly and without haste. This will allow you to build a bathhouse in a short time without any incidents in the work.

Helpful advice! When purchasing materials for construction, focus on the medium and high price range. Soft materials for the roof, purchase insulation and vapor barrier according to a pre-calculated estimate, + 10% on the supply of material.

An important point when building a bathhouse is not to forget about. For a small steam room, a channel in the wall is sufficient; for larger rooms, a fan will be required. This is necessary so that our small bathhouse at the dacha is a place comfortable rest, and not a carrier of miasma.

Article

If the dimensions summer cottage do not allow the construction of a full-fledged building, then Alternative option– mini-bath. In terms of functionality, level of comfort and safety, it is absolutely not inferior to traditional steam rooms, but at the same time it requires much less usable space. Besides, self-construction Even a novice master can do baths made from affordable and safe materials.

Available materials for the construction of a budget bathhouse

Before you build a budget sauna for your dacha, you need to decide on the material for the wall structures. As a rule, natural wood is used to build a private steam room - timber, a simple or rounded log, but increasingly, in order to save money, site owners prefer simpler and cheaper materials. The most popular of them are:

• Brick.
• Wooden beam.
• Edged board.
• Steel frame with wood cladding.
• Plastic corrugated sheet.

Each material has its own strengths and weaknesses, which can be used to advantage when building a compact steam room.

Types of economy baths

An economical bathhouse in the country is perfect solution for small garden plots, the area of ​​which does not exceed 10 acres. This means that the structure itself must be ergonomic: up to 6 meters in length and 4 meters in width.

Let's consider the main design options that can be advantageously arranged on a small private plot.

Frame

The simplest frame bath is built on a lightweight base and has a wear-resistant wooden frame, covered with quality materials.

To provide a small frame bathhouse additional protection from the negative effects of moisture and temperature changes, the structure is insulated and waterproofed.

Dry logs with a cross-section of up to 112 mm are suitable for constructing a bathhouse. To make a compact bathhouse with an area of ​​up to 13 square meters. m, it is necessary to prepare 80 units of lumber. Can be used for insulation mineral wool, tow fiber and tow.

Frame structures do not require additional exterior decoration. If desired, it can be done, but this will significantly increase the cost of implementing the project.

Monolithic

Another economical option structures for construction on a summer cottage. It involves the use of cheap material - wood concrete, which is prepared from sand, cement, chemical additives and filler. Used as a filler sawdust conifers and deciduous trees, hemp and flax bonfires, rice and cotton straw stalks.

There are two technologies for constructing a bathhouse: from sawdust blocks, brickwork or monolithic casting. Monolithic technology provides for a preliminary removable type with subsequent filling of the walls with the finished mixture.

Mobile

The modern market offers ready-made ergonomic bathhouse designs with various technical and operational parameters. One of them is a small sauna, which is a tent on a steel base, equipped with a mobile heater and a backpack for transportation.

There are more affordable and lightweight designs that are equipped with a small-sized steam unit.

The undoubted advantage of a mini-bath for use in the country is the ease of assembly and installation in any accessible place. Depending on the design features, dimensions and type of bathhouse, it can accommodate from 2 to 5 people.

Ergonomic

The budget barrel sauna is the most popular and sought-after design option, which has almost all the advantages of a stationary building.

This structure is a large barrel made of wood. It is divided by a special partition into two functional areas: a steam room and a shower room - for recreational and water procedures, dressing room - for installation of heating equipment. A mobile barrel-shaped sauna can accommodate from 2 to 4 people in one session.

For the construction of walls, edged boards from hardwood trees up to 6 cm thick. A mobile economical sauna does not require a foundation, but to increase the stability of the structure it is recommended to use additional wooden base from boards up to 5 cm thick.

If the bathhouse is intended to be used not only in summer period, but also with the onset of cold weather, then prerequisite is the insulation of the structure. For thermal insulation, frost-resistant and durable materials are used, inert to rotting and the negative effects of external factors.

Choosing a site for the construction of a country bathhouse

On a small site, it is better to build a bathhouse near existing buildings - a residential building, summer kitchen, sanitary unit. This option has many advantages, since it allows not only to effectively connect usable area various buildings, but also significantly save on construction and finishing materials.

When building a bathhouse, it is necessary to take into account the following basic recommendations:

1. The bathhouse should be located at a safe distance from any bodies of water to avoid possible flooding of the premises.
2. The distance of the building from the hydraulic structure should be 15 meters, from neighboring areas - 5 meters.
3. It is better to place the bathhouse on backyard or the south side of the site.
4. You should not build a building near a road, field or garden.
5. All fire safety rules must be observed.
6. When developing the project, the competent organization of ventilation and wastewater systems, as well as the safe arrangement of steam and heat insulation protection, are taken into account.

Construction of a budget bathhouse at the dacha using frame technology

Build a bathhouse in the country with minimal investment available to any owner of a small plot, according to construction technology All work is carried out step by step in the following order:

1. Preparing the site for construction.
2. Construction of the foundation.
3. Tying a wooden frame.
4. External wall cladding.
5. Thermal insulation.
6. Arrangement of communications.
7. Installation of heating equipment and furniture.

Site preparation and foundation construction

On initial stage it is necessary to prepare the site for construction. The area is cleared of dirt and vegetation and leveled. Next, the foundation for the bathhouse is arranged.

Cheap foundation option for frame bath– it is distinguished by its strength and durability. It is recommended to use asbestos cement pipes as supports.

Getting ready for pipes required quantity recesses around the perimeter and at the junctions of walls.

The installation step of the supports is selected taking into account the type of soil and the maximum load exerted on the base.

Shrinkage of the supports is carried out to a depth of up to 150 cm, while a drainage (15 cm) cushion based on sand and fine crushed stone is first poured into the bottom of the pit.

The pipes are installed in a vertical position, with fittings placed in each. The cavity of the pipes is concreted, the area around each pipe is also filled with mortar.

After the concrete has hardened, a wooden or metal grillage under the frame is installed on each support.

Timber frame strapping

Frame for budget wooden bath It is made from timber sized 15×15 cm, dried and treated with moisture-proofing compounds. The initial crown is laid on the waterproofed base with alignment along the perimeter. Laying method - in the paw.

The walls are erected to the required height with the organization of door and window openings. The crowns are fixed to each other using wooden dowels. The beams are insulated with jute fiber or tow.

On the upper crown, the rafters are fixed to metal brackets, taking into account the configuration of the future roof. For pitched roof rafters are fixed with external and internal supports, for gable roof– below the rafters are mounted to load-bearing walls, and are brought down from above in the form of a roofing ridge.

External wall cladding and thermal insulation

Even simple and compact sauna needs high-quality thermal insulation and external cladding. For the frame structure, you can use available and cheap materials - OSB and CSP (cement-bonded particle boards), moisture-resistant plywood and boards.

The sheathing is mounted on the finished frame using self-tapping screws, and the joints are filled with foam or sealant.

Reliable thermal insulation will provide additional protection wooden structure from increased moisture and temperature changes. Mineral and ecological wool, polystyrene foam sheets, reed boards and jute can be used as a heat insulator.

Thermal insulation materials are installed in free space between the inner and outer cladding, preventing the formation of gaps that could lead to heat loss.

A vapor barrier layer made of glassine or polyethylene film.

Arrangement of communications

At this stage, all main communications are laid - water supply (cold and hot), sewage and ventilation systems, electrical wiring.

Gasket sewage system- arrangement of a drainage well, septic tank or connection to the central sewer system - must be provided for at the stage of constructing the foundation.

It is better to make a wooden base a leaky structure with a small hole for drainage. The floor is arranged with a minimum slope of 5 degrees.

Next, reinforced electrical wiring is laid. Afterwards the insulation of the wall and ceiling structures using available and moisture-resistant materials, decorative finishing with clapboard or plywood. Finally, doors and windows are installed, heating equipment and electrical appliances.

Installation of heating equipment and furniture

For frame village bathhouse At the dacha, it is recommended to choose a compact and economical heater - an electric stove or a wood stove with a metal body. Massive stoves require the construction of an additional foundation, which will entail increased costs for the construction and maintenance of the bathhouse.

Finally, a standard set of furniture is installed - shelves and benches for the steam room, a table, chairs and hangers for the dressing room (dressing room), benches and shelves for the shower room.

The construction of a small private bathhouse on a personal plot is a complex and responsible undertaking. To get a decent result of your work, experts recommend drawing up a detailed plan for the construction process. This will simplify the passage of the main stages of work and avoid serious mistakes.

Step-by-step instructions for building a mini-bath include the following steps:

• Choosing a location on a building site.
• Construction of a foundation for a bathhouse.
• Construction of walls, partitions and interfloor ceilings.
• Installation of the rafter system.
• Thermal insulation, waterproofing and vapor barrier of walls, ceilings and floors.
• External insulation and cladding.
• Installation of heating equipment and chimney.
• Laying floors, installing door and window structures.
• Communications supply.
• Internal cladding of premises.
• Selection and arrangement of furniture, bath accessories.

Projects of small-sized baths

Construction work begins with the preparation of the design of the future bathhouse. It is important to take into account all the main parameters: dimensions and internal layout, location, construction and Decoration Materials, furniture and equipment.

The most common sizes are the following budget baths:

3x3

Square one-story building of 9 square meters. m - the most affordable option for a small-sized bathhouse. It provides for a steam room and a washing room, located on 4 squares with a minimum set of furniture, as well as a dressing room of 4 square meters. m with a folding table and benches. Here you can also organize a locker room and a relaxation area. A small corridor is intended for convenient storage bath accessories.

4×3

Bathhouse project for 12 sq. m provides for a budget construction designed for small company of 2-3 people. The total space of the bathhouse can be divided into several functional zones thin partitions made of timber: steam room, washing room and dressing room. Installed in the washing room small pallet with drain hole. For such a bath, it is recommended to choose a compact metal wood-burning heater or an electric stove.

4x4

Bathhouse project for 16 sq. m is quite in demand due to its spaciousness. A standard building is built on one floor and may include the following premises: steam room, washing room, dressing room, sanitary unit and rest room. In some cases, such a project provides for the presence open terrace. The bathhouse may have a second floor, equipped as a guest room, a playroom or a study. To build such a bathhouse, timber, logs, cinder blocks and bricks are used.

4x5

Budget project country bathhouse for 20 sq. m includes a minimum of structural elements. As a rule, the building is built on one floor and is divided into a steam room, washing department, lounge and terrace. Heating equipment and furniture are installed in the steam room, an area with a shower and sanitary unit, in the rest room are mounted Appliances and furniture. This project may not include a dressing room, which allows you to get a fairly practical summer option baths

6x4

The most popular project for a small-sized bathhouse of 24 square meters. m, which consists of a steam room and a washing room of the same area, a dressing room, small room for relaxation combined with a terrace. Such dimensions of the building allow it to be used for a company of 4-6 people. To save space, multi-tiered folding shelves can be installed in the steam room. If desired, you can reduce the area of ​​the rest room by allocating a small room for a locker room.

Photo examples of ready-made baths in the country

Before starting the construction process, it is necessary to develop a working design and draw up a detailed drawing indicating technical parameters future building. Original and popular options for budget bathhouses in summer cottages, built with your own hands, in our photo selection.

A functional frame bathhouse on a summer cottage is an accessible and relatively cheap construction option for home use. To reduce construction costs, you can create own project, and also use only inexpensive and practical materials. A compact heating stove, made by yourself, will also help to significantly reduce the cost of servicing the finished bath.

Self-construction of a sauna in a summer cottage is a procedure that can be performed quite simply if you follow the main steps and features construction work. The article will talk about how to build a sauna in a country house with your own hands, and also provide basic recommendations from experts for those who want to end up with a high-quality, reliable and safe structure, where every visitor will take bath procedures with comfort and pleasure.

Sauna at the dacha

A standard sauna for a summer cottage must meet the basic condition: maximum enclosure with complete tightness of the structure. Such a building must be equipped with basic communications: ventilation system, electrical wiring and water supply.

Linear proportions are selected in such a way that at least 3 cubic meters of space are allocated for each visitor. Only if these proportions are observed, you can get a sauna that will look aesthetically pleasing in the photo and during visual inspection, and will also be comfortable to use.

If the property does not have a building of suitable dimensions, then you can think about such a phenomenon as a sauna in country house, but again there are various risks to consider. The article itself is dedicated to phased construction saunas at the summer cottage.

Construction of a sauna at the dacha

The sauna building can be erected using various materials: wood, brick, cinder block, etc. Today, the choice of material is the prerogative of the owner. When choosing a material, you can only rely on how the structure will look in the photo and during visual inspection, as well as on the final estimate for the construction work. There will not be a detailed discussion of the construction process, but the main stages will be touched upon. To begin with, each owner will have to decide what linear dimensions They will have a small sauna at the dacha, unless of course you want to make the building larger.

After finishing the floors of the mini sauna for the dacha, you can begin cladding the walls. On brickwork First, glassine is laid, but this condition applies exclusively to the specified material for creating walls. This material has waterproofing and vapor barrier effects and is sold in the form of rolls. Also, glassine can be replaced with bitumen paper. Special slats are used as fasteners for glassine. The material is laid overlapping with a spacing of 10-15 centimeters.

Then a solid frame made of wooden beams with a cross-sectional area of ​​5x5 or 4x6 centimeters. You can also use a metal structure, which will naturally be more durable. Can be placed on a frame under the ceiling electrical wiring, install ventilation and fire extinguishing systems.

When a mini sauna is built with your own hands at the dacha with additional installation security systems, then “dry pipe” technology is used. It consists in placing pipes under the walls along the entire perimeter of the sauna. Special corner holes are made in the pipes, directed directly to the center of the room. Also, for localized fire extinguishing, it is possible not to bring special sockets inside the room with the rest of the system laid under the frame cladding.

Also important element The fire extinguishing system is a valve on the ventilation system. Its purpose is quite simple. Sources of fire are usually located inside the premises of a bathhouse, sauna, dacha or other buildings, and any knowledgeable person will say that the supply of oxygen supports the combustion process.

When the fire extinguishing system automatically closes the valve, smoke does not spread outside the room. Particularly important ventilation valve in cases where the sauna is combined with a private house.

Thermal insulation of walls

Naturally, for a comfortable stay in the sauna it is necessary to provide high-quality insulation. Only in this case the heat loss in the room will be minimal. Used as insulation following materials: basalt or mineral wool. They are laid in the voids between the frame and the wall. You can also put a foil layer on top of the frame, which will turn the room into a kind of thermos.

The foil is fixed in such a way that the shiny reflective side is directed inside the room. Reflecting thermal energy, this layer prevents the room from cooling quickly and promotes its rapid heating. The foil is fixed using buttons, brackets or special tape. With proper insulation, you can make any sauna comfortable for visitors.

Finishing ceiling and wall finishing

After wooden clapboard If the walls and ceiling of the room are upholstered, it is necessary to install a ventilation valve on top of the place where the stove is installed. The diameter of the valve should be between 10 and 15 centimeters. When fixing the lining to the ceiling, it is necessary to lay the insulation at the very end.

When choosing a lining, you need to study the characteristics of the main types of material:

• fake– has a pinkish tint, a pleasant smell and has a beneficial effect on human body. The material has low thermal conductivity, which allows you to achieve warmth and comfort in the room;
• alder- most practical material With great history applications. It has a large palette of colors from pale pinkish to pronounced red;
• abashevaya- made from African wood, the structure of which resembles polystyrene foam. The material is pleasant to the touch and also has a remarkable property: it adapts to the temperature of the body with which it interacts. Thus, it is best to upholster benches with the help of abashe lining so that it is pleasant to sit on them;
• pine– is inherent in saunas that came from the Scandinavian Peninsula. This material has a characteristic pine aroma. Disadvantage coniferous material is the release of resin when wood is heated. Hot resin when interacting with the human body can cause burns. At the right combination Using different materials you can achieve an original finish in your sauna.

Installation of benches and other sauna equipment

A proper sauna should have a room height of 1.9 to 2.1 meters. When installing benches, it is necessary to take into account that the person sitting on the upper tier should feel comfortable without resting the top of their head on the ceiling (more details: " "). Then the bottom strip of benches will have a height of 65 centimeters. If such a design creates discomfort for visitors, then under the bench you can make a step 20-25 centimeters high.

Other conditions for arranging a steam compartment:

• To eliminate the effect of a closed space, you can install combined doors with glass or tinting. It is very important that the door is without any locks and opens to the side from the steam compartment;
• It is worth considering that a wood-burning heater is very difficult to install, and therefore it is best to opt for electric ovens, which can be purchased at many stores. Such a stove is placed with a gap of 20 centimeters from the floor and secured to the wall with screws;
• To increase safety, the stove must be fenced wooden fence at a distance of 5 centimeters. Stones are placed in the voids between the tubular electric heaters. minimum distance;
• V last resort are mounted lighting and switches, after installation of which you can put the sauna into operation.

Features of selecting and laying stones

The effectiveness of the sauna's healing effect depends on the quality of the stones used. It is important that their surface is perfectly smooth, and stones that have burst during use must be promptly replaced. After the stones are laid, a cracking noise may occur during their operation, but this is not a big deal.

The most popular types of stones:

• It is best to use diabase in a sauna, which can withstand about 360 cycles of heating and subsequent cooling;
• Porphyrite is also considered very effective, relieving headaches and having a beneficial effect on the functioning of the lungs and skin human body;
• soapstone heats to very high high temperatures and then retains heat for a long time. The stone is considered very useful for normalizing blood pressure and strengthening the immune system;
• jadeite is an expensive stone and is considered semi-precious. When it is heated, silver ions are released, which have a positive effect on operation. nervous system person. Read also: "".

Bottom line

The article provides a sufficient amount of information to understand how to equip a sauna in a summer cottage according to all the rules. You should not refuse the advice of professionals, since they will be able to confidently tell you exactly how to make the sauna comfortable and cozy.

Almost any owner personal plot I would like to build a bathhouse there. However, its area may be small and it is not possible to erect a full-fledged structure. In such a situation, you can build a mini sauna for your dacha. It will be as functional and comfortable as a traditional one, but its construction will require less materials and effort. Even a novice home craftsman can cope with this task.

If the area of ​​the dacha plot does not exceed 10 acres, then the best solution There will be a small-sized bathhouse. It is quite obvious that the dimensions of the building should also be ergonomic and not exceed 4x6 meters. There are several designs that meet these requirements:

• Frame - the simplest structure of this type is installed on a lightweight base and has a wear-resistant wood frame, sheathed quality material. Also to minimize negative influence temperature changes and moisture, the structure should be insulated and waterproofed.
• Monolithic - the material can be used as wood concrete, which is a mixture of sand, chemical additives, cement and filler.
• Mobile - there are several options for this design, for example, an awning tent.
• Ergonomic - the most popular here is the barrel-sauna made of wood.

Design Features

The beams are laid on top, which are then covered with waterproofing material, for example, bitumen. If the soil is soft or wet, it is better to use a strip foundation.

The prepared trench should be covered with a layer of sand and crushed stone, and then compacted well. Next thing to do cement mortar and pour it into the pit. As waterproofing material It is worth using roofing material.

You can build walls different ways. For a small bathhouse, the best option would be frame construction. To create it, a home craftsman will need the following materials:

• Wooden beam 5x5 cm.
• Boards at least 2.5 cm thick.
• Polyethylene film for waterproofing.
• Thermal insulation material.

The frame is assembled from timber in accordance with the drawn up project. Inner side the structure must be sheathed with boards. Anchors or self-tapping screws can be used as fastening elements. Then it is necessary to provide the building with reliable thermal protection. To solve this problem, it is worth using expanded clay or sawdust. Ideal as a waterproofing material bitumen mastic. The last stage The construction of the walls will include interior finishing with boards. To install it, you must perform the following steps:

To ensure complete drainage of water after the completion of the bath “session”, you should create drainage system. To do this, you just need to dig drainage well close to the building. It is necessary to make drain holes in the washing room and bring pipes to them at a slight slope in the direction of the well.

You can heat water using a heating element or a mini-oven. Create ventilation system It’s even simpler - just make several holes in the wall located near the entrance and close them with dampers. At this point, the process of creating a small-sized bathhouse can be considered completed.