The front door is the face of the apartment and says a lot about its interior decoration. Often from the side of the apartment it is decorated using decorative panels, but the surface is not decorated from the outside, for fear of vandals. Such actions may result in the wooden surface suffering from the effects external environment, and metal has low insulation from noise and cold.

Lost appearance It's better to update the door. One of the long-lasting ways to give aesthetically pleasing is the door trim. It also increases noise and heat insulation in a house or apartment, which is especially appreciated by owners of apartments on the lower floors. Upholstery is the most affordable and budget-friendly way to decorate doors. It does not require special care.

A new door trimmed with leather is quite expensive. A good option will sheathe it yourself. Every man can cope with the job after studying all the stages finishing works. An incentive prize will be an insulated beautiful door, absorbing annoying sounds.

The most common material for door upholstery is vinyl leather (leatherette). It has a number of advantages: it does not fade in the sun, does not wrinkle, retains its structural pattern, and looks beautiful and elegant.

Properties of vinyl leather for upholstery

TO strengths artificial leather includes:

• Long service life. The material does not lose its properties for more than 10 years.
• Easy care. Use a damp cloth to clean, and cream to add shine.
• Moisture resistance. The material does not absorb liquids and works well in high humidity conditions.
• Frost resistance. Low temperatures do not reduce the technical qualities of the material or its decorative properties.
• Wide range of colors. There are various shades of all colors on sale: from dark to pastel. This makes it easy to choose the right color for a harmonious interior design.
• Antiseptic properties. Vinyl leather does not rot, mold and prevents the proliferation of insects on the surface and inside the upholstery.
• Resistance to chemical exposure. Leatherette can be washed with many household products.
• Low price. The cost of upholstering doors in a country house, apartment or private house will require minimal investment.

Self-finishing wooden or metal doors with leather will solve the issue of sound insulation and will prevent heat leakage from the room; the door material will be reliably protected from external environmental influences.

Among the disadvantages are:

• Flammability. Vinyl leather is resistant to direct exposure to flame and ignites quickly.
• Impossibility of repair. Damage to the surface of the leather is almost impossible to repair; it will need to be completely replaced.
• Low strength. Cutting the material is quite easy. Upholstery requires careful handling.

Upholstery material and tools

To work you will need to purchase required quantity material and some simple tools if they are not available.

At independent execution For finishing work, the following tools are required:

• hammer;
• several screwdrivers;
• construction scissors and knife;
• tape measure or ruler;
• glue brush;
• furniture stapler and staples 0.7-1 cm.

Materials:

• vinyl leather desired color and size by 5-15% more area door leaf;
• lining material - batting, isolon or foam rubber;

For the first time, it is better to use plastic batting, as it ensures uniform distribution of the material over the entire surface. If you have upholstery experience, you can use any material. However, during the work process it is necessary to constantly monitor the uniformity of distribution, eliminating the formation of lumps and unevenness.

• polymer glue (Moment universal);
• decorative nails with a large head;
• decorative braid for decorating and fixing upholstery.

There is no significant difference between domestic and foreign material, except for its cost. When purchasing by the meter, you should take into account the allowance: 15 cm for wooden canvas and 12 cm for metal. The thickness of the seal should not be more than 2 cm.

The braid and nails should be matched to the door fittings and not disrupt the overall style. Fasteners can be purchased by weight or packaged in packs of 100 pieces.

Today, construction stores sell ready-made kits for upholstering doors with leather. A complete set will eliminate the possibility of visiting a hardware store in the midst of construction work.

Upholstery technology

There are several ways to upholster doors with leather. The chosen option depends on the skills of the artist, the desired effect and the material used.

Finishing can occur on the outside or inside of the door, as well as on both sides at the same time.

Preparatory work

Preparation of the door occurs in several stages:

• Remove from the hinges and place on a couple of stands that can be made from chairs or a table. The door should lie flat with the side that will be finished facing up.

Some craftsmen manage to upholster a door by weight. If you have little experience in such work, it is better to place the door in a horizontal position.

• Remove old coating, decorative elements and fittings. There is no need to worry about the resulting unevenness - a layer of insulation will hide the imperfections and visually level the surface. On wooden surface It is better to apply a layer of antiseptic.
• Cut out a leatherette blank, the length and width of which should be with an allowance for each side of more than 10 cm.

Creating rollers

It is necessary to provide leather bolsters on the doors to ensure good insulation. Before you start making them, you should consider the direction of the door:

• for external opening, 4 rollers are required on each side;
• for internal ones, three are enough (the side facing the hinges is not covered with a roller).

For wooden door opening inward, the fourth roller can be cut to a smaller width and nailed to door frame, not the canvas.

To make a roller yourself, you need to cut a strip of material 10-15 centimeters wide. It is also necessary to cut a piece of lining material.

One edge of the strip is secured face down on the edge of the door. One long roll is made from the lining and covered with the second edge of the leather strip. Work begins from the upper right corner, continuing on the sides and ending at the bottom. The bottom roller should not touch the floor, as this will cause abrasion. The rollers must be secured with staples using a stapler. They are driven in every 20 centimeters along the entire perimeter of the door leaf. It is acceptable to use nails.

For metal door use glue to coat the surface and distribute the material evenly, pressing lightly. The average glue consumption is 100 ml on each side of the door. Before applying glue, the surface must be degreased. Next, glue is applied to the ends of the doors and the skin is pressed. Excess material is cut off with a knife.

Door trim

Covering stages:

1. Door insulation. A blank of paralon or batting is laid on the canvas and covered with leather at the top. The largest allowance should be on the side of the loops.
2. Tuck the edges of the leatherette, hiding the edges of the insulation inside.
3. Fastening the canvas with nails. You should start driving decorative nails from the side of the lock. They are distributed evenly over the entire area so that the seal does not move down, forming an unsightly fold at the bottom of the door. The number of nails depends on the aesthetic criterion and the type of filler. Not sheet material should be nailed more often.

When upholstering, you can use fishing line or thin wire for decoration, which is pulled between the nails.

To make the covering on a metal door look neat, the edges of the material are folded and secured with staples from the inside. Glue is applied to the lining material, the hem and the upholstery is pressed. All work should be done slowly, gradually moving in one direction.

With a wooden door everything is simpler. The edges are folded and nailed with decorative nails in 15 cm increments.

When fastening the sheathing, you should make sure that the fastenings of the rollers do not protrude from under the edges of the material. A few millimeters are set back from the edge of the door so that the trim does not interfere with the movement of the door in the opening.

Installation of accessories

Installation of fittings occurs at the final stage of covering. In all places of technological holes it is necessary to make small incisions on the skin and lining material. To determine the location of the cuts, it is enough to feel the old holes through the upholstery. The peephole, lock and door handle are installed in the right places.

Using decorative nails, you can easily create the desired pattern on the surface of the door. After all the work, the door can be put back on its hinges.

For better insulation you can purchase rubber compressor and cover the perimeter of the box with it.

"Lazy" cladding

This cladding method is not very different from the classic one. Its only advantage is that finishing can be done without removing the door from its hinges. The method is suitable for doors with a large mass.

Operating procedure:

• Cut a sheet of leather from a roll of leather to the size of the door with an allowance of 15 centimeters and 4 strips on each side, 14 cm wide.
• Similar fabric and strips are cut from insulation.
• Remove the door handle, lock and peephole.
• Secure the insulating rollers: nail one side to the edge of the door leaf, lay the insulation and wrap the other side of the strips.
• Lay the insulation, ensuring even distribution. Secure with brackets at a distance of 5-7 cm from the edge of the door leaf.
• Apply leatherette on top with a minimum allowance of 5 cm. Temporarily secure it to the surface of the door.
• Start the upholstery from the lock side, carefully tucking the edges and securing with decorative nails. Go along the entire diameter of the door. When nailing, the material is constantly tensioned so that the surface is even.
• TO door slope Secure the fourth roller on the side with a loop.
• Screw on the previously removed fittings.

Features of metal door cladding

Metal doors can be upholstered in two options. The first is democratic and involves gluing the material to the canvas. Another option is more expensive, based on the use of special panels. It provides better appearance, insulation and will last much longer.

Budget method

It was previously mentioned that the material is attached to a metal surface using glue. For greater clarity, let's take a closer look at the order of operations:

1. Glue is applied to the edges of the door and foam rubber is fixed to it. All excess material and protruding edges are cut off using scissors or a knife.
2. Apply glue to the upper end of the door. During work, watch for the formation of folds and distortions. They can only be fixed while the glue is still wet.
3. After securing the skin with a utility knife, remove excess material.
4. The lock and handle are installed.

Using panels

For external upholstery, MDF linings are used, which are made various sizes. When finished, the door will look no worse than its factory counterparts.

The inner side is chipped wall panels, which allows you to choose the material for any interior of an apartment or house. MDF can imitate the texture of expensive wood. The only drawback is that it requires careful use. Plastic panels simpler and cheaper, but more practical.

Stages of work:

1. Take dimensions from the door. Corners on the inside to increase rigidity will help you measure depth correctly. Internal height equal to the distance between the lower and upper corners. Width - the distance between the side corners. All measurements are required to correctly determine the amount of lumber and foam sheets.
2. IN hardware store you need to purchase panels, foam, wooden beam, decorative corner with a margin of 15%.
3. Saw the block into 4 parts, the width of which should be equal to the width of the door leaf. Take a block, apply it to the door and use a pencil to mark the line along which the cut will be made. The same is done with the bottom and in the middle. All 4 bars should be located at the same distance.
4. Using an electric drill, make 16 holes in the door for fastening: 4 holes for each block. The diameter of the drill must match the size of the screw.
5. Secure the bars to form a frame for fastening the panels.
6. Make holes for attaching decorative panels. The manufacturer indicates their quantity in the instructions.
7. Make holes in the panel for the lock, handle and peephole.
8. Secure the panels.

Inner upholstery:

• Fasten the frame bars as described for outside.
• Cut the foam into pieces so that they fit into the space between the bars. Make holes in it for the fittings.
• Lay polystyrene foam or other insulation, you can fix it with glue.

• Secure the panels. For plastic ones, a stapler is used, and for MDF - with clamps.
• Attach a decorative corner around the perimeter of the door to hide the edges of the upholstery material and give a more attractive look.
• Install the lock, peephole and door handle.

Upholstering the door with vinyl leather allows you to restore the appearance of the door on a budget, eliminate drafts and noise from landing. The work does not require special knowledge and skills and is completed in one day. Compliance with technology and following the advice will help you quickly and beautifully decorate the front door, which will not only delight you with its appearance, but will also become an insurmountable barrier to street noise and cold air.

If you have any questions, you can follow the stages of work in the video. The specialist will tell you in detail and show all the stages of fastening the upholstery material and give valuable advice.

There is no arguing about tastes and aesthetic preferences, which is why door manufacturers offer entire catalogs of their own various designs both the door leaf and the entire entrance group. For those owners who are not satisfied with the content of the catalogs, they open huge opportunities There are a lot of materials for door upholstery, one of which, perhaps the most popular, remains artificial leather.

How to sheathe doors. Video

How beautiful leather doors are is up to each owner to decide for himself, but it is difficult to blame this coating for its practicality. Dermantin, the price of which is several times lower than genuine leather, and if you buy domestic it is not too dense material for upholstery use indoors, inexpensive and available in thousands of shade variations and textures. You can buy everything from crocodile leather to the most incredible and fantastic textures. Yes, and less demanding flat canvases are also on sale.

Upholstering a door with leatherette with your own hands, a video of the process we presented above, does not require any special tools or skills, and you can finish both a wooden and a metal door in this way. Another undoubted advantage of the material is that you can cleverly hide any insulation under it, which will also insulate from excess noise. Moreover, in Lately You can find a ready-made kit for door upholstery, which includes nails with special heads, insulation, rollers and a piece of leatherette of the required size.

Selection and size of leatherette

Leatherette is distinguished not only by color, but also by thickness, so when choosing a material, you should take into account the complexity of the desired surface. The thicker the leatherette, the more difficult it will be to give it a certain form. But at the same time, thick material is more difficult to damage and retains heat better.

When choosing an upholstery kit, you should pay attention to the cut dimensions, since for metal doors and for wooden size piece will be different. Standard metal doors will require a leatherette cut 12 cm larger than the door leaf, and wooden doors - 15 cm larger than the door leaf. Select special nails with a shaped head large diameter, and the color of the hat can look harmonious with the color of the accessories or blend in color with leatherette. Perhaps a contrasting solution will look interesting if the pattern of the nails is somehow interesting.

Selection of nails and auxiliary materials

As an option, some decorate each hat separately - wrap it or cover it with the remains of leatherette, which also looks whole and harmonious. You can, of course, use foam rubber as a lining. It's cheaper, but it's of no use as insulation. It is better to choose a good and soft insulation, like Isoton. Metal doors are glued with simple Moment glue, following virtually the same algorithm of actions that we will consider for wooden doors.

To cover wooden doors with leatherette, you will need ordinary tools that are in every home - a hammer, screwdrivers, pliers, a glue brush, construction knife and scissors. Construction stapler will greatly simplify the task, but you can do without it by replacing the staples with thin nails.

Wooden door cladding technology

The main work is done, all that remains is to make rollers from the remains of leatherette to create a pattern on the canvas. In principle, you can use decorative tape for this, and the design can be anything you want. For some reason, rhombuses are incredibly popular. Feng Shui, probably.

Yes, and one more thing. In the word “leatherette” there has never been, is not and will never be the letter N. “Dermos” is Greek for “skin”, and leatherette, accordingly, is the material that replaces it. But in general, in this way you can quickly and inexpensively update the door leaf, give the doors a completely different appearance and at the same time learn something new about the use of borrowed words. Good luck with the renovation everyone!

The entrance door group is now mostly made of metal, so it primarily performs a security function. But budget options have certain disadvantages. These include poor heat and sound insulation. The simplest and affordable way compensate for these shortcomings, upholster the doors metal dermantin. Before ready-made entrance groups appeared on the market, they were often ordered individually and made from sheet steel.

An example of upholstery of metal doors with leatherette

They were distinguished by a sufficient degree of reliability, but did not have a very presentable appearance, so they required additional finishing with different materials.
The finishing options were:

1. The most common is covering a metal door with dermantine.
2. Wooden overlays.
3. MDF panels and laminated fabric were also used.

Finishing front door leatherette, as a more expensive option for genuine leather, was the most popular.

Existing leatherette colors

This is explained not only by the aesthetic appeal that the door acquired after finishing the entrance group, but also by practicality. Sound absorption and thermal insulation increased. The most used material to this day is vinyl leather (leatherette). If previously its range was not very wide, now you can choose a finishing option that will satisfy every taste. They will fit into interiors of varied styles.

Example of door trim with leatherette

On the street side it is finished, for example, with wooden overlays, MDF overlays, and inner side The fabric is upholstered and insulated with leatherette. This type of design is more suitable for private homes. IN apartment buildings More often than not, both sides of the fabric are covered with leatherette. Exterior finishing can be made in one color, vinyl leather texture, the interior is decorated with another type of material, more suitable for a given interior.


The reupholstery of metal doors is somewhat different from the upholstery wooden box, but in general the same methodology is used.

How to cover a door with dermantine yourself

Take your time to purchase a kit for covering canvases at a construction supermarket. Ready-made kits may have different configurations. You need to decide not only on the type of vinyl leather, but also on the purpose of finishing. Usually, except decorative effect, the door is additionally insulated and soundproofed.

Options for covering metal doors with leatherette

What materials are used and for what:

1. Iron cladding has the following disadvantage: increased vibration, this applies primarily to thin steel blades. To compensate for this flaw, vibration filters are installed. These are mastic-bitumen gaskets that neutralize vibration, no more than 2.3 mm thick.
   
2. The second problem is that metal does not absorb noise well. It is for this reason that sounds from the entrance penetrate into the apartment, and vice versa, neighbors can hear what is happening in the apartment. For these purposes, experts recommend using isolon (polyethylene foam consisting of closed cells with air). A layer of 5-8 mm will be enough to significantly increase sound insulation. Izolon is used in car tuning.

   

   The process of installing isolon on a metal door

3. Weak thermal insulation should also be considered a disadvantage sheet metal. The best options for ready-made door panels have insulation installed inside. In Chinese, many budget options There may be corrugated cardboard in there. But even in the case when the door was insulated, for example, mineral wool, it shrinks over time and becomes saturated with moisture. This increases the thermal conductivity of the insulation; it is better to change it.

   

   An example of insulating a metal door

   In combination with foam upholstery, under dermantine, the insulation will be as effective as possible. The size of the insulation inside is chosen based on the thickness of the fabric; outside it can vary from 10 to 20 mm. For the inside of the insulation, it is recommended to use dense mat insulation; it does not settle as much as mineral wool. It is this “pie” that will help eliminate the shortcomings of metal sheets.
   

4. Vinyl leather upholstery, The final stage finishing of canvases. This is a practical, aesthetically attractive material. Today the market offers the widest range, from inexpensive leatherette, the price of which is 200 rubles per sq.m., to eco-leather and genuine leather, where the cost will vary from 700 rubles to several thousand.
   

Leatherette– a leather substitute, is one of the most popular materials. The material is most widely used in construction and decoration.

The high demand for leatherette is justified by the following characteristics:

• Frost resistance. The material performs its functions well even with sub-zero temperatures. It also helps retain heat in the house, so it can be used on entrance doors;
• Durability. The material retains its properties from 7 to 10 years;
• Water resistance. The material has moisture-resistant properties, which prevents damage to the product or insulation;
• Soundproofing. The material can be used for the entrance door, since noise will not penetrate into the room through the canvas;
• Easy to care for. To preserve the appearance of leatherette, wiping with a damp cloth is sufficient. You can use a special cream that will add shine to the leatherette;
• Antiseptic properties. Resistant to bacterial rot, mold and other pests;
• Resistance to aggressive chemical environments. The material can be washed with any household chemicals;
• Low cost. Upholstery with leatherette is affordable for the average family;
• Wide range of textures and colors.

In the process of upholstering a product, you need to adhere to a certain technology. It will allow you to make the most of beneficial properties material and will ensure a long service life. The procedure includes the following steps:

1. surface preparation;
2. upholstery with insulation;
3. leatherette upholstery;
4. decor with accessories.

Each stage has its own nuances, so you need to carefully familiarize yourself with the specifics of performing the listed points.

Preparation

If the casing is being replaced, you need to stock up on a knife, pliers and, if necessary, a screwdriver. The procedure is as follows:

1. Remove from hinges.
2. Dismantling of fittings.
3. Using pliers, all decorative nails are removed.
4. Leatherette and insulation are removed. Removing the insulation may take some time if it was attached to the metal door with glue.
5. The surface is prepared for covering.

If the door was not previously chipped, then all the fittings are simply removed. It is necessary to remove all elements that stick out on the surface. There should be a flat surface underneath the leatherette, so you can level the relief using a slab of plywood. It can be secured with ordinary nails. It is important not to forget to treat the wood with special products.

Insulation

First you need to decide on the insulation material. The most suitable for leatherette are:

• Foam rubber. Low price, wide range of densities and thicknesses. Has a service life equal to leatherette. Has average insulating properties;
• Batting. Inexpensive material, with a service life of up to 30 years. However, over time it dents and can absorb moisture. It is toxic when burned;
• Izolon (a subtype of polyethylene foam). Most modern version. Has good insulating properties. The most expensive of all materials, but final cost won't be too high.

The insulation is secured to the wooden surface using a stapler. On the outside, you need to retreat up to 8 cm from the edges. Insulation is applied to the entire area, without indentation. Markings are applied for working with a stapler or driving nails. The step between staples or nails should be 10–15 cm. Treatment is carried out along the entire perimeter.

For a metal surface you need glue, which is also applied around the perimeter, up to 8 cm from the edges. Don't forget to cut off the insulation on the handle, lock and peephole.

Preparation of tools and accessories

To use your time efficiently, before upholstery you need to acquire a set necessary tools. The set includes:

• hammer;
• stationery knife and, if necessary, scissors;
• stapler (if not, use a hammer);
• roulette;
• marker;
• brushes (for metal surfaces).

The list of tools and materials for wooden and metal doors is slightly different. Therefore, each material has its own cladding technology. It is also important to acquire all the materials at once:

• leatherette;
• insulation;
• staples or nails (wooden surface);
• glue (metal);
• decorative nails;
• braid (in case you need to additionally fix the leatherette and decorate the door).

Reference! Choosing decorative nails by design will not be difficult, since the market is overflowing with products different shapes, sizes and colors.

Upholstery technology

Working together will go much faster. A second person will help stretch the fabric for comfort and evenness of the relief. The edges of the fabric are always bent inward, which will make the upholstery durable and aesthetically pleasing. The folds should be a few centimeters wide. The wooden door is covered with nails with a decorative cap. Step from 10 to 15 cm.

Important! You need to make sure that the insulating rollers do not peek out from the gates.

Leatherette should not cover the door to the very edges. A few millimeters need to be retreated to ensure free movement.

Often used figured design using decorative nails. Soft insulation allows you to create a relief on the surface, which will completely transform the door. Be sure to use a marker to mark the locations for installing accessories. Next, nails are hammered into the designated places, which usually have a removable decorative cap so as not to damage it during installation.

Exists a large number of patterns that can be created on the surface: from simple dots to geometric shapes such as rhombuses, squares. On the Internet you can find many patterns for decorating with furniture nails. You can stretch a decorative thread between the nails, which will change the pattern and relief.

For a metal door, you need to come up with a design at the preparation stage in order to secure the bases of the screw buttons with glue. Small holes for screw buttons are made in advance in the insulation and leatherette.

Upholstery of a wooden door: video

Upholstery has its own nuances. Wood needs care and protection. Therefore, wooden doors often have an unpresentable appearance. A good restoration option is leatherette upholstery. The tree must be treated with an antiseptic. When working with a wooden panel, the lining must be secured using a stapler. Since the iron surface requires glue, it is much easier to staple wood. Furniture nails are used on the edges.

To be able to decorate the doors correctly, you must follow the instructions given in the video.

How to cover a metal door with leatherette?

A metal door is usually placed at the entrance, so it is extremely it is important to use high-quality insulation. Often only the inside is insulated, but a range of decorative accessories allows you to decorate the outside using insulation.

A metal door does not require insulation beads on the outside. The size of the insulation should be 1–2 cm smaller at the edges of the surface area. You need to take a piece of leatherette that is 5–6 cm larger at the edges than the area of ​​the door. This is necessary for bending. The upholstery process consists of the following steps:

1. Glue is applied around the perimeter, retreating up to 2 cm, and thin stripes by area.
2. Insulation is applied and pressed for a while. The drying time for the glue is indicated on the packaging.
3. Starting from the top, glue is applied to the back of the product at a distance of 5 cm from the edge. Press the leatherette until the glue sets.
4. The same procedure is carried out on the lateral edges. It is important to stretch the fabric to a uniform relief. Sometimes you have to cut off extra pieces that will prevent the door from closing.

Upholstery on the inside

The inside of the front door can be insulated with polystyrene foam. Thus, it will also be possible to simplify the procedure for upholstery with leatherette. The insulation process is as follows:

1. A frame under the foam is fixed over the area of ​​the door. For this purpose, planks having the thickness of polystyrene foam boards are used. The slats are fixed using metal screws, which are fixed into pre-drilled holes.
2. All large seams and joints are sealed with polyurethane foam.
3. Foam boards are installed in the frame, which are fixed with special glue. The gaps between the plates and slats are also sealed with polyurethane foam.
4. A sheet of plywood, equal to the area of ​​the door, is nailed to the slats.
5. Next, the procedure is similar to upholstery. wooden products. It is only important to ensure that the decorative nails are nailed to the location of the slats.

On the inside, insulating rollers are attached to the door frame. They should be placed flush with leatherette on the hinge side. WITH reverse side and on top the protrusion should be up to 5 mm. From below, the roller is located at a height of 1.5–2 cm from the floor.

When choosing a material for upholstery, it is important to remember the disadvantages of leatherette:

• Low fire safety. A highly flammable material that emits acrid smoke when burned;
• Not the most durable material, which is easily scratched and cut;
• In case of mechanical damage, it will not be possible to return to its previous appearance.

There is also important points things to consider when choosing leatherette:

• The material must be elastic. The hardness of leatherette indicates a fake;
• Choose a coarser fabric;
• A pungent odor indicates poor quality of the fabric.

When upholstering with leatherette, it is important to maintain the consistency of the process and take into account the characteristics of the materials used. If the technology is not broken, then such upholstery will last up to 10 years.

(detailed video instructions For DIY door trim, see bottom of page)

In this instruction we will tell you how to sheathe the front door yourself.
To do this you will need:
1. Vinyl leather (dermantine, artificial leather, artificial leather, PVC film, vinyl artificial leather, leatherette). Vinyl leather is sold by the cut, the width, as a rule, ranges from 110 centimeters to 140 centimeters. If you have a standard metal door, then a piece of fabric 10-15 centimeters larger in size will be enough to cover it. If your door is wooden, then you need to take into account that in addition to covering the main door leaf, you will need to make rollers, for which strips of dermantine 12-15 centimeters wide are used. In total, we will need three strips of length equal to the height of the door.
2. Lining. For these purposes, you can use foam rubber with a thickness of 10-20 mm. If you need enhanced thermal insulation and then turn your attention to a material such as isolon. This is enough efficient material, which is used in the automotive industry. Although it is much more expensive than foam rubber, its thermal conductivity properties exceed those of foam rubber several times. Foam rubber is sold in sheets measuring one meter by two, which is just suitable for high-quality door upholstery.
3. . Usually special furniture nails with a wide head are used. The color range consists of shades of gold, silver, bronze and copper. We recommend choosing a nail color that matches the color of the locks and handles. This way your door will look quite harmonious. Also on construction markets You can find nails whose heads are covered with vinyl leather. You can choose nails that match the texture and color of the selected material, or you can, on the contrary, play with contrast.
4. . You will need it if you have an iron door that does not have holes for nails. “Universal Moment” is well suited for our purposes. To paste one side of the upholstery, a tube with a capacity of 100 ml is enough.
5. Tools.
1) Construction stapler and staples with a leg length of 8-10 mm.
2) Hammer.
3) Scissors.
4) Knife (you can use a regular stationery knife with replaceable blades).
5) Screwdrivers.
6) Pliers.
7) Brush (for covering a metal door).
Once you have made sure that all of the above items are in stock, we proceed directly to the process of upholstering the front door. First of all, you need to dismantle all the locks, the door peephole and get rid of the old trim (if you need to reupholster the door). Here we will not describe this action, but will immediately begin the story about the main thing. It is not at all necessary to remove the door from its hinges, as is advised in many similar instructions. So, we will divide our guide into three parts: upholstery on the inside, upholstery on the outside, and covering a metal door. But remember: the instructions for door upholstery only give general recommendations and does not take into account the features of a particular door. At some points, you may have to use your wits.

How to upholster a wooden door with your own hands

Let's consider a situation when the door opens into the apartment. In order to beautifully upholster a wooden door yourself, it is advisable to start work by making a roller that will visually close the gap between the door frame and the door itself, and in some cases, fit tightly to the frame itself (this depends on the design and profile of the platbands). First, take one strip of dermantine and use a stapler to nail it front side to the door surface so that it extends onto the door by about 3-4 cm. If your door has a rim lock, then it is better to start nailing the roller from there. If all the locks are mortise, then start upholstering the door from the upper corner of the hinge side. Having thus covered the entire perimeter of the door with strips of leatherette, we proceed to laying the foam rubber. First, it needs to be cut into strips 8-10 cm wide. We fix them on the door leaf with a stapler, tuck and nail the material so that the resulting roller protrudes by 1-3 cm, depending on the relative location of the door and trim. The roller is ready.

Next, measure the resulting distance between the inner edges of the roller and cut out the foam rubber, subtracting one centimeter from these dimensions on each side. Use a stapler to secure it to the door leaf. The final part remains - upholstering the main surface of the wooden door. We take a piece of dermantine by the corner, turn the edges in by 5-6 cm, place it in the corner of the door so that the material slightly overlaps the roller and hammer in a decorative nail, retreating about 5-7 mm from the edges. Then we take the second one top corner material, we also tuck it in and, pulling it a little, hammer in the second nail. Next, you need to check whether the piece of leatherette lies evenly relative to the surface of the door leaf. To do this, in the middle of the door, pressing slightly, we run our hand from the top to the very bottom and, holding it with one hand, with the other we apply the lower corners of the material to the edges of the door, smoothing them from the center. Accordingly, both on the left and on the right the distance to the edges of the dermantine should be the same. Having made sure that the beginning has been made correctly, we continue to trim the door. We nail the top edge, making the distance between the nails 10-12 cm. Then we begin to do the same with any side, tucking the artificial leather at an equal distance along the entire length and slightly, but not strongly, pulling it. Here it is important not to overtighten, otherwise you will end up with something like a pleated skirt. It won’t be easy to fix this, since you’ll have to rip it out hammered nails, in this case, there is a high probability that you will accidentally damage the upholstery material, and in any case, nail marks will remain on it. Having reached the bottom, we proceed to the second side. IN last resort We fix the lower edge of the upholstery material, having previously calculated the future distance between the nails so that it is the same along the entire bottom side of the door. All! The door is upholstered. All that remains is to install the locks and the peephole. Upholstering a wooden door with your own hands is quite difficult for an untrained person, so many companies offer their own.

How to sheathe the outside of a wooden door yourself

The outer side of a wooden door should be covered with dermantine in a slightly different way. The first thing you need to do is close the door tightly and use a pencil to draw a projection of the door frame onto the door leaf itself. In other words, draw lines with a pencil along the entire perimeter. You will get the outline of the future door trim, and the remaining indentation is needed for the so-called “quarter” of the door. If the door is installed professionally and the locks are correctly adjusted, then the door leaf should fit snugly against the frame and, If, when upholstering, we put the dermantine behind the line, then in the end the door simply will not close. Now we nail the lower part of the insulating roller. We attach it to the door so that when it is closed it fits snugly against the threshold. For this we already have an outlined border at the bottom. If the bottom roller is nailed to the threshold itself, then over time it will wear out from constant foot contact. Next, we fix the lining material with a 1 cm indentation from the line and, similarly to the previous paragraph, we nail the main piece of vinyl artificial leather. Now you need to make an insulating roller on the right, left and top. In this case, it will be mounted on the door frame. It is made almost similarly to the inner roller, only it is advisable to fill it with a large amount of foam rubber. On the hinge side we place it flush with the jamb, and on the top and lock sides we extend it by about 3-5 mm, depending on the size of the gaps between door leaf and a box. If the roller is made too large, the door will close with difficulty and force. If the roller works small size, it will not perform its main function - sealing the opening. Therefore, it is important to catch " golden mean" Finally, we nail the remaining bottom edge of the trim and install the peephole, handle and locks. Don't rush at this stage. As they say, measure twice, cut once. Make cuts in the upholstery for locks and handles with care, do not cut off excess. It would be a shame to screw up all the work done at the very end of the process. Now you know how to sheathe the outside of a wooden door yourself. This will significantly increase its insulating properties, and also increase the sound insulation of the front door.

How to upholster a metal door with dermantine yourself

We take a tube and a brush and coat the entire perimeter of the metal door. Then we apply a sheet of foam rubber and, pressing lightly on it, glue it. Next, use a utility knife to cut the foam exactly along the profile metal sheet. If the blade is sharp, this procedure will be quite easy and pleasant. Now we apply glue to the upper end of the door (if it is the inside) or on the back side of the top strip (if it is outer side). When using glue, be sure to follow the instructions for use! Next we glue the dermantine and, similar to the method above, check the uniformity of its distribution. Then we glue the leatherette on the hinge side. And then - from the lock side, pulling right hand with a slight effort, and with the left - driving away excess dermantine. So, all that's left is the bottom edge. This side of the metal door is the most difficult to apply glue to. There are situations when the gap between the bottom edge iron door and the floor is only two to three millimeters. If you are unable to glue the leatherette underneath, you will have to remove the door from its hinges. This way you can make your task much easier. When the fabric is glued on all four sides, use a utility knife to carefully cut off the excess at the corner at the junction of the end and the cover (narthex), install a peephole, door handles and castles. As you can see, it is quite possible to upholster a metal door yourself. Try it - and sooner or later you will succeed!