Often in our time, the walls in a frame house are not made of sufficient thickness, this is especially important in the regions of Siberia.

What is the minimum and optimal width must be internal and external walls? Let's look at this question in more detail
The technology of building houses actively used today prompts many potential homeowners to be interested in their performance qualities.

First of all, of course, everyone is interested in the question of how warm and cozy such a frame dwelling will be.

Therefore, most questions come down to the main thing: how thick are the walls of a frame house?

It is impossible to give a specific and precise answer to this question. The problem is that there are many different technologies for constructing buildings and covering walls with the most different materials. It is clear that they all have their own performance characteristics and have different thicknesses. The final thickness of a particular wall is the sum of the total size of all wall materials.

Let's consider various options technological solutions and determine the numbers characteristic of different types of frame buildings.

What is the structure of the wall of a frame dwelling?

Conventionally, you can imagine it something like this:

• Vertical racks;
• Horizontal strappings;
• Insulating material;
• Internal and external finishing material.

It should be noted that regardless of specific type design, the main principle of the structure of all walls is the same.

Thanks to it, the structure is reliable and durable, protected from wind and moisture, and has low heat transfer. Even in the harsh conditions of the northern climate, a house built using this technology turns out to be warm, cozy and comfortable. At the same time, the thickness of wall insulation in different cases can vary greatly.

IN frame construction It is assumed that various technologies will be used. Depending on the characteristic features of each, various construction and finishing materials are required. They are chosen not only taking into account their visual appeal and aesthetics, but taking into account their working and performance qualities.

Walls of a frame structure: the importance of calculations

Summer house

It is important to know exactly for what specific purposes the structure is being built.

Maybe this is a neat country house exclusively for summer living. Then the requirements for it will be unique, its walls may well be lightweight.

If it is a solid structure, then the size and thickness of the walls are calculated in accordance with the load-bearing load.

If you are planning a solid structure for year-round use, or a two-story house, or a house with an attic, then you must take into account, in addition to its strength qualities, the mandatory need for insulation. In such a case, the thickness will depend on the massiveness and size of the timber, and on the thickness of the insulation used.

How to correctly determine the thickness of the walls of a future structure? The calculations must take into account such an indicator as the thermal conductivity coefficient of the materials used.

There is another one interesting option frame house designs - Its meaning is that for the construction of such buildings, industrially manufactured ones are used. Using similar technology thickness load-bearing walls will be determined by the size of the finished panels themselves.

Each frame structure is based on a thoughtful engineering calculation, on the basis of which the specific device and the material from which it will be made are determined.

Walls of a frame house: choice of materials

This method is perfect for building a small house on summer cottage, and for the construction of a permanent residential building for permanent, all-season residence.

The thickness of the walls of these houses varies from 140 to 160 mm - this does not count the thickness of finishing materials, both internal and external.

Those who doubt the ability of houses to reliably retain heat need to know that the wall of a frame house with a thickness of 160 mm corresponds to two meters of brickwork.

Frame-cladding houses: wall thickness

This method of housing construction involves the additional use of 25 mm boards, slabs or chipboards with a thickness of 16-18 mm in addition to the supporting structure of the base made of beams for cladding the frame. All cavities inside the structure are filled with insulation.

In such structures, all important dimensions of the load-bearing wall are calculated taking into account the operating coefficient and the load-bearing loads of the entire structure.

For houses with year-round use, the thickness of the walls, together with the external and internal cladding, ranges from 182 to 200 mm.

The outside and inside of such wall structures are usually sheathed with a variety of finishing materials.

For interior upholstery they use either, the outside is covered with, or other materials. Between the main wall and curtain façade Can also be used for additional insulation thermal insulation material.

Frame-and-fill houses: wall thickness

This technology is rarely used for building houses today. It is mainly used for the construction of various outbuildings. For construction residential buildings this scheme continues to be the most economical among others.

The thickness of the walls in such structures can be from 150 to 200 mm, not counting the thickness of the insulation and finishing.

Houses made of sip panels: frame wall thickness

A special feature of this method is the use of panels of the same name. They are manufactured industrially, their thickness can range from 50 to 200 mm. The specific indicator depends on the selected project.

A separate advantage of this use of this construction method is that construction occurs quite quickly. It is quite possible to build such a house on your own. The main thing is to know the order and sequence of all manipulations, and strictly follow them. Built according to all the rules, such a house will serve faithfully for many years. Living in it will be quite comfortable and convenient.

When the entire house is built below ground level entirely or partially with appropriate modern structure. The design of the central part of the home and the courtyard can accommodate underground house and still provide an open feeling while using modern photovoltaic systems.

This type of home is built entirely underground on a flat site, with the main living spaces surrounding a central open courtyard. Windows and glass doors, which are on the open walls overlooking the central area, provide light, solar warmth, views and access via stairs from the ground level.

The design is visible from ground level and creates a private outdoor space and provides good protection from winter winds. This design is ideal for construction sites in harsh areas.

Passive sunlight is likely to be received through windows, as in an ordinary residential building, and the amount is thought out by the design.

Advantages and disadvantages

Bulk types of insulation in most cases belong to environmentally friendly insulation (if natural materials were used in the production process). For example, perlite or perlite crushed stone is cast from glass of volcanic origin. Vermiculite also has a mineral origin - granules are formed during the heat treatment of certain rocks. Polystyrene (polymer insulation) does not have such characteristics - its granules begin to release into environment styrene

Operational advantages of mineral insulation:

• They allow steam to pass through perfectly, preventing the walls from becoming damp;
• serve for a long time without loss of technical characteristics;
• resistant to open fire - can withstand temperatures from 1,000 degrees;
• not interested in rodents and insects;
• do not collapse under the influence of high humidity;
• do not lose their shape - granules or crushed stone do not split over time.

The disadvantages include the need to construct an additional partition (the insulation is poured between the facing material and the wall). Which, as a result, requires expansion.

Vermiculite

1. Experimental verification of the physical parameters of building materials

Having carried out theoretical studies related to the topic of our work, we formulated the goal of our experimental work: to identify energy-efficient materials.

Based on the purpose of the work, the objectives of the experiment were formulated:
1. Identify and classify the main building materials used in the construction of low-rise residential buildings.
2. Conduct an experimental study of the physical parameters of selected materials.
3. Analyze the results obtained.
4. Detect the dependence of the amount of heat spent on heating a house on the physical parameters of building materials.

Hypothesis: based on the analysis of the thermal conductivity and heat capacity of materials, wood is the most optimal.
Conditions for conducting the experiment: when conducting experiments, it is necessary to ensure maximum thermal insulation of the system to reduce heat loss.
Equipment and materials: kettle, water, electronic thermometer, stopwatch, scales, building materials, thermal insulation.

The research took place in several stages.
In Study 1, we examined all found building materials. And they came to the conclusion that most often for the construction of low-rise buildings in rural areas use the materials presented in the table. Thermal characteristics were determined for each material.

Table 1. Thermal properties of materials

After analyzing all the materials, we chose those that could be tested at home.
Study No. 2 was devoted to determining the dependence of the thermal conductivity of a material on the type of substance. The following materials were used in the experiment: brick, wood and cinder block and building board. To determine the temperature, materials with holes were immersed in a container with water at a temperature of 90˚C, inside of which alcohol and electronic thermometers were placed:

Rice. 1. Measuring the heating temperature of the material with an alcohol thermometer

Rice. 2. Measuring the heating temperature of the material with a digital thermometer

After 15 minutes, measurements were taken, the results of which are presented in the table.

Table 2. Heating temperature of materials

Diagram 1. Dependence of heating temperature of a sample made of different materials

From the presented data it is clearly seen that wood has the lowest thermal conductivity, followed by brick and cinder block, but the slab sample under study has a higher temperature value, which indicates the highest thermal conductivity among all the studied samples, since the slab contains iron reinforcement .

In study No. 3, the calculation of the specific amount of heat required to heat the material. During the work, the material under study was placed in water to transfer the amount of heat. All samples were heated to temperatures of 50˚C. Next, the material was transferred to a thermally insulated system, and temperature measurements were taken every 15 minutes:

Rice. 3. Measuring the temperature of the material in a thermally insulated system

The results obtained are shown in Table 3.

Table 3. Dependence of material cooling temperature on time

Diagram 2. Dependence of the cooling temperature of a sample from different materials over time

Based on the constructed diagram, we conclude that despite the fact that the thermal conductivity of wood has the minimum value of all the proposed materials, when using a small-volume sample, and when sawing timber across the grain, the material cools faster than others.

Let's calculate the amount of heat required to heat the material to 50˚C:

So, according to the calculations obtained, it is clear that in order to heat a house made from the materials we have chosen, a greater amount of heat must be spent to heat a building made from reinforced concrete slabs, since with the same dimensions the mass of the slab is greatest. It is also worth noting the high heat costs of heating a house made of wood.

By jointly analyzing the data in Diagram 2 and calculating the amount of heat, we came to the conclusion that it is effective to make wooden houses from timber with a diameter exceeding the diameter of the brick at least twice, and should be approximately 20 cm. Construction of a house from timber 10*10 cm is energy efficient not effective.

For ceilings

Just like floors and walls, ceilings require insulation. The insulation materials discussed above may well be used in this case.

A more specific insulation material is penoizol. In appearance it somewhat resembles foam chips

This is where the similarity ends, if you do not take into account the thermal conductivity characteristics.

Penoizol is absolutely not flammable. Has high chemical and biological resistance. Rodents avoid it. It is good for insulating ceilings because it is very light in weight. Its density is from 5 to 75 kg/m³. Due to low thermal conductivity, a thickness of insulation layer of 5 cm is sufficient. When working, bulk material is used, in sheets and in liquid form.

Note: Penoizol shrinks slightly (0.1 - 5%). It is compensated when work is performed by professional craftsmen at modern equipment. Otherwise, cracking of the insulation is inevitable. (this applies to the use of the liquid fraction).

When considering bulk insulation for ceilings, one cannot ignore such a widely used material as sawdust. as the cheapest material. Their use as an independent insulation material is highly undesirable. The fact is that they are susceptible to rotting due to moisture absorption.

They are also excellent breeding grounds for mice. Even if you do not take into account the fact that they are a fire hazardous material, it is easy to conclude that they are unsuitable. “Craftsmen” go to all sorts of tricks in order to somehow reduce these negative factors. To do this, sawdust is mixed with expanded clay, lime, even broken glass and other building materials. Such measures somewhat improve the properties of the insulation, but not much.

As a conclusion, it should be noted that when insulating ceilings, the advantage is on the sidebackfillheat-insulating materials.

Construction of houses using frame-fill technology

Scheme for assembling a frame-panel house with your own hands.

If it is not possible to build a house using frame-panel technology, then backfill type wall partitions are erected. In this case, the construction of the object on the construction site begins from scratch.

As a filler for the space between walls in frame houses, both slab and roll heat insulators and cheaper bulk materials can be used: sawdust, peat, sunflower husks, moss, tow, straw or reed chaff. Before laying, bulk insulation must be treated with an antiseptic: soak the mixture with a 10% solution of iron or copper sulfate, then dry thoroughly. Inorganic insulation materials can also be used: expanded perlite sand, pumice or slag.

The construction of houses using this technology begins from the inside. The sheathing is made from the same material that is used in the manufacture of the wall panel. In this case, the same requirements for the vapor barrier layer remain. The material is installed along the frame racks and to the top of the wall.

The next stage of construction frame houses there will be installation of material with laying of a windproof layer with outside. During the cladding process, as it builds up, the space between the walls should be gradually filled with the selected insulation. Insulation of slab or roll type it is necessary to nail it down, and the loose material must be compacted well every 200-300 mm.

Insulation scheme for a frame house.

The lower part of the wall must be carefully sheathed, avoiding any cracks. Otherwise, rodents may enter from the underground. To enhance protection against them, a roofing material gasket is used and the material sheathing is carefully adjusted to the bottom trim frame structure. Do not forget about the top of the wall, since the junction of the walls and the ceiling are quite vulnerable. If natural insulation is used, an antiseptic layer must be laid in the lower and upper parts of the wall. The final step in the installation of bulk walls in frame houses will be covering the joints with flashings.

During the construction of houses frame technology you may need:

1. Jigsaw.
2. Electric planer.
3. Drill with drills.
4. Circular Saw.
5. Construction pencil.
6. Plumb and level.
7. Hammer.
8. Nail puller.
9. Chisel.
10. Screwdriver.
11. Nails.

In general, the construction of frame houses is a very realistic project for any craftsman with experience in carpentry. The only condition for the successful construction and further operation of the building is a thorough study of the properties and technical characteristics of the wall panels used and the backfill insulation between the outer and inner surfaces of the walls.

Thickness of frame walls, specifics and composition

What is the structure of the wall of a frame dwelling?

Conventionally, you can imagine it something like this:

• Vertical racks;
• Horizontal strappings;
• Insulating material;
• Internal and external finishing material.

It should be noted that regardless of the specific type of structure, the main principle of the structure of all walls is the same.

Thanks to it, the structure is reliable and durable, protected from wind and moisture, and has low heat transfer. Even in the harsh conditions of the northern climate, a house built using this technology turns out to be warm, cozy and comfortable. At the same time, the thickness of wall insulation in different cases can vary greatly.

In frame construction it is assumed that various technologies will be used. Depending on the characteristic features of each, various construction and finishing materials are required. They are chosen not only taking into account their visual appeal and aesthetics, but taking into account their working and performance qualities.

3Creation of the Energy Efficient House model

So, having analyzed all the results obtained during the experiment, we assume that a house made in accordance with the following requirements will be energy efficient:
1. Made of wood, the average diameter of the log should be at least 30-35 cm.
2. Made of brick with the condition of using additional insulation from mineral wool or expanded polystyrene.
3. It is possible to build houses that are financially less expensive - frame-insulated, since the thermal conductivity of insulation is several times less than even wood, so in such a house you will not freeze even in severe frosts.

However, when building a house, it should be remembered that the outflow of heat is not mainly due to the wrong choice of material, so during construction it is worth paying attention to the insulation of window openings, ceilings and foundations. . When choosing building materials, we recommend refraining from using cinder blocks, since the thermal conductivity of such material is quite high, and harmful effects part of the slag is poorly studied and you probably do not know its origin

But foam blocks can be used, but with additional strengthening of the house frame.

When choosing building materials, we recommend refraining from using cinder blocks, since the thermal conductivity of such a material is quite high, and the harmful effects of the slag included in the composition are poorly studied and you probably do not know its origin. But foam blocks can be used, but with additional strengthening of the house frame.

And it is absolutely worth excluding the construction of a house from reinforced concrete building slabs, due to their high thermal conductivity and low moisture resistance. It will also be quite difficult to insulate a house made of such material.

Exterior design of the house

Since walls are mainly designed for enclosing rather than load-bearing function, it is important to initially provide a solid foundation for attaching external decorative material. As a rule, this function is performed by sheathing - a structure made of wooden planks and bars, which is mounted on the main cladding panel of the wall and serves for subsequent fixation of the cladding

The following materials can be used as finishing:

• Wooden plank. These can be wide planks or lining with locking grooves. Reviews of infill houses with this design emphasize the advantages of natural texture, environmental friendliness and ease of installation. On wooden sheathing The board can be mounted using ordinary nails with putty and biological treatment.
• Siding. Also easy to install, the material is plastic, wood or metal panels. It is more practical to use aluminum sheets, which weigh a little and look quite presentable. The only drawback is that aluminum is easily deformed, but it is also quite easy to restore.
• Block house. Imitation of the textured image of a classic log house on a metal base. In essence, a combination of siding and boards - semicircular sheets are fixed to the sheathing with hardware and interlocked with each other using a "joint-groove" connection.

Construction of houses using frame-panel technology

Diagram of the structure of the walls of a frame house.

The advantage of constructing objects using prefabricated wood panels on the face. In addition to the above advantages, the method also allows you to diversify the layout of the interior and facade of the house. The wall blocks used include wood, sheathed on both sides unedged boards or fiberboard. The core of the panel consists of a vapor barrier layer and insulation.

With development, many manufacturers have switched to the production of fully finished panel panels (readiness is about 75%), which can only be connected to each other at the construction site. Thanks to this, the time required for the construction of houses was reduced as much as possible, while maintaining the excellent performance characteristics of the house and the high quality of work.

Panel panels differ from each other not only in their outer cladding and types of insulation, but also in the way they connect the wall elements to the frame. So, in the first method, the frame structure of the building is first installed, onto which the factory-assembled panels are subsequently attached.

In the second case, construction does not involve the construction of a frame structure, since it is already embedded in the body of the panel panel. In order to install such elements without their mutual movement, they must be installed on the beams of the lower frame, the power circuit of which contains floor joists.

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Backfill vermiculite

Thermal insulation backfill Vermiculite is a natural material, since it is a mineral of the hydromica group that has been fired. Thermal conductivity depends on the size of the fractions. For backfill thermal insulation in civil engineering, expanded vermiculite of a coarse fraction up to 1 cm with a luster and scaly structure characteristic of mica is used. Roasting allows you to increase the volume of raw materials by 7-10 times, it volumetric mass about 90kg per cubic meter. The heat insulation layer does not cake and easily releases absorbed moisture. Used for insulating floors, roofs, inter-wall spaces, and backfilling foam blocks.

The most positive thing about its environmental friendliness is that when heated, Vermiculite does not release toxins and is odorless. It is bioresistant, fireproof, and breathability has a beneficial effect on the formation of the microclimate of rooms insulated with backfill expanded vermiculite. Vermiculite does not interfere with natural air circulation (not to be confused with drafts and convection). Used as an additive in cement mortars and finishing materials. High cost is not always a positive aspect when choosing.

3. Thermal conductivity of the material

If there is a temperature difference inside the body, then thermal energy moves from the hotter part of it to the colder part. This type of heat transfer, caused by thermal movements and collisions of molecules, is called thermal conductivity. Thus, when a steel rod is heated at one end in a flame gas burner thermal energy is transferred along the rod, and a glow spreads over a certain distance from the heated end (becoming less intense with distance from the place of heating). The intensity of heat transfer due to thermal conductivity depends on the temperature gradient, i.e. the ratio of the temperature difference at the ends of the rod to the distance between them. It also depends on the cross-sectional area of ​​the rod and the thermal conductivity coefficient of the material. The relationship between these quantities was derived by the French mathematician J. Fourier.

For a building in winter conditions, the latter values ​​are practically constant, and therefore, in order to maintain the desired temperature in the room, it remains to reduce the thermal conductivity of the walls, i.e. improve their thermal insulation.

1. Tree

In Russia, wood has long been used for construction. It is great for areas with any climate. And today, this traditional material is often used in the construction of beautiful and warm houses. Its special properties make it possible to achieve indoor high level comfort.

Our ancestors were very careful about the selection and preparation of wood for felling. Construction timber was usually harvested in winter or early spring, “while the tree is sleeping and excess water went into the ground." The wood was taken out of the forest and immediately cleared of bark. It is known that freshly cut wood has a moisture content of 30% in winter. But dried wood (18–20 percent humidity) is suitable for making a log house. To obtain such wood, it was kept under a canopy. The logs were stacked on pads to ensure through ventilation. Bark, sawdust and other waste were burned to protect the harvested logs from the wood beetle.

In wooden houses there is no problem of excessively dry, excessively saturated with carbon dioxide atmosphere in rooms. In wooden houses optimal humidity and the composition of the atmosphere in residential premises is maintained due to the natural air exchange of wood. Wood has remarkable thermal insulation qualities, which are an order of magnitude higher than that of the notorious brick. By by and large Wood has only one serious drawback - comparative fragility. In addition, wood cannot withstand fire, damage various insects and putrefactive decomposition.

One of the advantages of wood is its relatively light weight. Due to this, you can save on laying the foundation. The wood is frost-resistant, which makes it possible to carry out construction and repair work in winter time. Wood has a low single radiation background. In wooden houses it is not even necessary to carry out additional finishing of the inner surface of the walls. You can limit yourself to only varnishing and sanding. Since wood has low thermal conductivity, the thickness of the walls of the cottage can be made minimally acceptable in these climatic conditions. And, of course, a wooden house has a beautiful appearance. There are many possible architectural options for wooden buildings.

The disadvantages of wood include: high fire hazard, shrinkage, exposure to atmospheric influences, pest damage, and comparative fragility.

Thickness of frame walls - characteristics

Construction of private residential cottages based on a frame is an excellent option for purchasing comfortable and at the same time economical housing. Frame wooden walls perfectly retain heat indoors even with a large temperature difference between inside and outside the house. To ensure good thermal insulation, it is not so much the thickness of the wall structure that is of decisive importance, but the quality and reliability of the insulation. In addition, this indicator directly depends on the assembly technology and the features of a particular design.

Thickness of frame wooden walls (frame-panel)

Frame-panel houses are one of the most popular types of buildings in this direction. They are economical, easy to install and have excellent performance characteristics. Construction using this technology is actively used not only for summer cottages, but also for permanent residence. In the latter case optimal thickness the walls of a frame house should be approximately 140-150 mm, the main part of the structure being insulation. Modern materials, used for insulation, make cottages based on a frame in terms of thermal insulation characteristics equivalent to two-meter brickwork.

Thickness of frame walls (frame-sheathing)

Frame-sheathing technology involves the use of a frame itself, which is sheathed on both sides with 2.5 cm boards. The inside of the structure is filled with non-flammable insulation, and the outside is sheathed. Drywall is usually used on the inside, as it opens up more possibilities for further interior finishing. The outside of the house can be sheathed with different materials: siding, block house, imitation timber. Thus, the thickness of the walls is formed by the combination of several materials: boards, a layer of insulation and finishing.

Thickness of frame walls (frame-fill)

The use of frame-fill technology is suitable for both the construction of commercial facilities and residential buildings. The wooden frame is sheathed on both sides with slabs or boards. Bulk materials are used as insulation: slag, expanded clay, sawdust, etc. Since these materials tend to cake and form voids over time, they must be carefully compacted during the construction stage. As a result, the thickness of the walls of a frame house ranges from 150 to 200 mm. The choice of the optimal indicator, first of all, depends on the characteristics of climatic conditions and the quality of the insulation.

Foam glass backfill insulation

Foam glass. As a fill-in insulation, it comes in several types and is associated with different technologies its manufacture. This:

• filing of foam glass slabs;
• foam glass crushed stone obtained by foaming the mass and rapid cooling. This leads to destruction; additional mechanical crushing produces crushed stone without an outer fused layer;
• granulated foam glass, which is widely used in construction market, both as an independent backfill and as a basis for heat-insulating plasters.

Granulated foam glass is obtained from foamed raw granules. Essentially it is glass foam with a fused outer surface. The porous structure of the melted surface gives unique properties inorganic insulation. It is rigid, with high compressive strength, waterproof, and not subject to chemical and bacteriological destruction. Eco-friendly. It has practically no temperature restrictions during operation (from -200 to +500°C). Excellent for arranging and insulating inversion roofing, insulating basements, foundations, since it is not afraid of external and groundwater. Reuse and reuse is possible, the thermal conductivity coefficient remains unchanged (0.05-0.07 W/(m °C)). Can be used as fill-in insulation in ceilings and walls. But this is not a budget option.

Advantages and disadvantages

Like any home design, underground homes have advantages and disadvantages.

On the other hand, a protected home is less susceptible to extreme outside temperatures than a normal one. In-ground homes also require less external maintenance, and the ground surrounding the home provides sound insulation. In addition, most earthen house plans “blend” the building into the landscape more harmoniously than a conventional one. Finally, underground homes may cost less to operate because they offer additional protection from strong winds, storms and natural disasters such as tornadoes and hurricanes.

The main disadvantages of underground homes are the initial construction costs, which can be up to 20% higher than conventional ones, and the increased level of professionalism required to prevent moisture problems during design and construction.

Requirements for materials for infill construction

The base of the frame is formed by wooden bearing structures, which must be made from coniferous lumber dried in a dry room. For elements that will be located in the area of ​​the foundation or plinth (at a level below the ground surface or less than 25 cm above it), they must also be subjected to antiseptic treatment. It protects wood from rotting and physical destruction.

According to SNiP 2.03.11, facing, finishing, roofing, insulating, sealing and other building materials for a frame house must also comply with local conditions of use.

Environmental requirements are taken into account separately. This is one of the aspects that distinguishes a frame-fill house from conventional prefabricated panel buildings. It is the rejection of synthetic thermal insulation layers in favor of loose fillers that determines the higher environmental friendliness of the structure. The regulations also approve the rules for the use of wood panel materials, which should not contain toxic inclusions such as formaldehyde above 5 mg per 100 g. If they cannot be abandoned, then the material will have to undergo a preliminary detoxifying primer.

Asbestos-containing elements are often used in frame housing construction - in particular, when interior decoration premises. When installed, such materials must either be covered with glazed tiles or coated with waterproof paints and varnishes. Such treatment is required to protect against the effects of disinfectant solutions during household care.

Use of bulk insulation

Insulation building structures with bulk materials is carried out after installation of vapor and waterproofing. Bulk insulation for interfloor ceilings is rammed (except for ecowool), for which it is necessary to ensure that spillage through cracks and cracks is impossible. To save heat in houses built from different materials, appropriate insulation should be used, so different materials are used for stone and wooden buildings.

The best option for insulating wooden buildings is ecowool, which ensures absolute filling of volumes without the formation of cavities and seams, and also eliminates the occurrence of cold bridges and associated losses internal heat. Its cellulose base is related to wood, so the use of ecowool in timber, log and frame buildings is even more justified.

Abroad, the material is known under the following names: Ecowool, Isofloc, Ecovilla, Termex, Termofloc. In our country, not far from St. Petersburg, a special plant was built for the production of ecowool from waste newspaper.

The Teploservice company effectively carries out suburban wooden buildings, taking into account the specifics of their construction and various construction projects.

Cellulose insulation ecowool

Backfill ecowool is recommended as an excellent insulation and soundproofing material for any designs. But having a wood base - recycled cellulose treated with borates, it is ideal for wooden structures, since it has 100% compatibility of characteristics with wood. This avoids many problems of incompatibility of contacting materials. Widely used in low-rise frame construction as a backfill heat insulator for walls, roofs and ceilings. Environmentally friendly material, does not rot, and is fire resistant. Ecowool is the right insulation for houses with natural ventilation. without the risk of exposure to volatile toxins. Eliminates the issue of rodent populations appearing in overlapping areas. Along with the advantages, backfill ecowool has disadvantages. Manual laying is a very labor-intensive process, in which it is difficult to adhere to the recommended density. It is “dusty” because it has the fibrous structure of wood fluff. It is advisable to include in the cost of insulating a house with ecowool the service of installing the layer using a mechanized method (under measured pressure and using a blow molding machine). But ecowool insulation produced once, it does not reduce its thermal insulation properties under the influence of time and external factors throughout the life of the house.

The Teploservice SPb company provides services for the supply and installation of ecowool in St. Petersburg. Any consultations are possible by phone and in the feedback form in the section Contacts .

Panel walls

The dimensions of the wall panel are selected based on the adopted module, which, in turn, is linked to the width window opening. In our case, a 1.2 m module was chosen, that is, a wall 6 m long will be made up of 5 panels, each 1.2 m wide. The height is usually taken equal to the full height of the wall - 2.4–2.5 m. Under the windows and Shields of smaller height and appropriate width are installed above the doors.

Wall panel frame with diagonal wind brace

The assembly of shields is carried out on a large workbench. 4 slats are nailed to its surface, serving as templates. They ensure that precise dimensions and angles are maintained.

First, a frame of 2 vertical boards and 4 horizontal boards, 30 mm thick and 100–120 mm wide, is knocked together using nails in the template. If the outer and inner cladding of the shield is made of boards, then a wind brace (stiffening brace) is cut diagonally into the frame. Walls reinforced in this way will prevent the house from warping due to wind pressure (especially with high roofs with attics), as well as in case of uneven settlement of the foundation.

When making at least one of the skins from sheet material, wind braces are not needed.

A layer is placed on the frame vapor barrier material(glassine, polyethylene film). The purpose of the layer is to protect the insulation from moisture, water vapor rushing out of the house.

Normal air exchange in a room occurs due to ventilation, as well as through leaks in windows, doors and other structural elements.

External cladding with lapped and quarter boards

As a vapor barrier, internal cladding boards are nailed - horizontally or vertically, depending on the available material and for interior design reasons. Sometimes the inner lining is made slightly protruding beyond the frame (20 mm on each side) in order to hide the frame post (its thickness is 40 mm) when installing the shield. However, this makes sealing the joint between the shield and the stand somewhat more difficult.

After installing the sheathing, the frame is turned over (the wind connection is at the bottom) and its internal volume is filled with slab or roll insulation (glass wool, mineral wool, peat slabs, reeds). The insulation is laid tightly, without the slightest cracks, otherwise the walls will freeze in winter.

Wall shield:
1 - shield frame; 2 - outer skin; 3 - windproof layer; 4 - insulation; 5 - vapor barrier; 6 - internal lining

The next layer is laid over the insulation - windproof. It protects the walls from blowing. Material - thick paper or thin cardboard. Finally, the outer cladding boards are nailed on top. They are positioned horizontally in a quarter or overlap and should reliably protect the wall from getting wet even in slanting rain. Materials for the windproof layer must allow water vapor to pass through. This is necessary so that the insulation into which water has entered can dry out.

With vertical external cladding, the boards are placed 10–15 cm above and below the frame so that they cover the upper and lower frame trims.

The wall panel assembly scheme described above is classic. This or something like this is how they are made in factories for prefabricated houses. In the driven version, the outer and inner cladding is made of boards.

You can reduce the cost of manufacturing panels by using fiberboard for the interior cladding (under wallpaper), and for the exterior - a flat asbestos-cement sheet, which is resistant to weathering, has a smooth surface, and is easy to paint.

Large-sized asbestos-cement sheets are produced in lengths of 1200–3600 mm, widths of 800–1640 mm, and thicknesses of 6–10 mm. They are attached to the shield with a gap of 15–20 mm along a grid of slats using screws protected from corrosion by galvanizing or painting. If these measures are not taken, the walls will be damaged by rusty streaks.

Sheathing with thin sheet material (hardboard, plywood) requires a frame with a more dense grid. It can be assembled from 3 vertical boards and 4–6 horizontal ones. In general, both the wall panel module and the location of the frame boards must be selected taking into account the size of the available materials, so that cutting and waste are minimal.

Joining two shields:
1 - wall panel; 2 - frame stand; 3 - flashing; 4 - sealing gaskets; 5 - insulation; 6 - sheathing with asbestos-cement sheet

When installing wall panels, they are fastened to the frame elements with nails. Before installation, the outside of the shield frame is covered with some soft and thin insulation along the entire perimeter. After tightening with nails, the gaskets crumple and reliably seal the cracks. Additionally, they can be coated with putty and covered with a strip on top.

Features of wall construction

A frame strength base is also created for the walls in the form of vertical posts and auxiliary horizontal support units. Jumpers are installed over the openings, and strapping belts are installed throughout the supporting system of columns - at least at the top and bottom. The cladding of the walls of a backfill house is made of rigid sheet or slab material. The panels must correspond to the loads from the own weight of the house floors and from the wind. If rigid sheathing is excluded, then additional reinforcement with diagonal ties or struts will be required.

It is advisable to fill the walls with insulation in warm weather, so that the risks of waterlogging the material are initially minimized

During the filling process, it is important to eliminate voids, openings, gaps and unfilled areas. Such defects affect not only thermal conductivity, but also structural integrity

Wall niches can be provided with sawdust, wood concrete, sand, expanded clay, etc. The cheapest and most practical option would be to build a backfill house from sawdust, which can be obtained free of charge and in the required volume at sawmills. Another thing is that pre-processing of the material will be required. Experts recommend drying the sawdust well, compressing it, and mixing it with cement, which will also eliminate the risk of the filler becoming waterlogged during the operation of the house. If the task is to increase the structural reliability of walls, then it is better to use an adhesive binder instead of cement. It is advisable to choose compounds with antiseptic and fire-resistant properties.

Backfill mineral wool

Raw materials for mineral wool serves whole line rocks, metallurgy slag, quartz (fiberglass). Slag mineral wool is inferior in quality and characteristics to a heat insulator made from molten rocks. Since mineral wool fibers affect the mucous membranes and respiratory tract, the production process does not always stop at obtaining the fibers and their deposition. Cotton wool is either glued with glue based on polymer resins (plates, roll insulation) or granulated mechanically. Loose mineral wool includes both fibers and granules. Loose mineral wool is not always suitable for insulation, since compaction breaks the fiber structure and there is a risk of shrinkage. And it is difficult to work with it; protective measures are required for the skin and respiratory tract. Granulated mineral wool is recommended as an effective insulation of process equipment and chimneys; it is resistant to high temperatures (resistance threshold 1090°C), non-flammable and has a lower weight in volume (250 kg/1m3) than loose mineral wool. The size of the granules is usually 10-15mm. Minerals are not characterized by bio-destruction, so mineral wool does not rot, it has good vapor permeability, but when wet, the thermal insulation properties decrease. Mineral wool is difficult to dry.

Benefits of technology

As a variety frame construction, a house with loose wall filler provides a lot of advantages from the point of view of organizing construction. They are expressed in optimizing work processes, reducing the cost of materials, increasing the speed of construction, etc. Even compared to traditional wooden houses, this method will have noticeable organizational benefits. Compared to other frame buildings, the pros and cons of an infill house will also be very noticeable. Loose filler, unlike mineral wool, expanded polystyrene and other synthetic insulators, makes it possible to provide an environmentally friendly and cheap thermal barrier.

Insulation of walls and ceilings

To make the house warm and comfortable, it is necessary to insulate the external walls. For this purpose, foam glass, granulated environmentally friendly material, obtained from raw fractions by foaming. This wall insulation is chemically resistant and can form the basis thermal insulation plaster. Foam glass is ideal for insulating basement walls and foundations, since it is not afraid of groundwater.

A granule of foamed polymers is the basis of penoplex, a lightweight and moisture-resistant thermal insulation material. This heat insulator does not have a very wide operating temperature range, so it is not recommended to use it. Penoplex can be covered quite easily frame walls. The granules fill the smallest voids.

Mineral walls can be used not only in the form of conventional slabs or rolls, but also in the form of granules larger than 10 mm in size. Such bulk insulation is vapor-permeable and fire-resistant, and is not afraid of high temperatures. In addition to thermal insulation properties, granulated mineral wool has good sound insulation properties. When laying mineral wool, it is necessary to provide protection for the skin and respiratory tract.

Mineral wool for wall insulation can be used not only in the form of conventional slabs or rolls, but also in the form of granules larger than 10 mm in size.

To preserve heat in rooms, ceilings are often insulated. IN Lately penoizol, which looks like foam chips, has gained popularity. This lightweight, low-density material is characterized by increased biological resistance. Rodents and mold will not grow in such a thermal insulation layer.

When choosing heat-insulating bulk materials, you should pay attention to such characteristics as thermal conductivity, density, moisture absorption, weight and particle size. Most of the bulk insulation can be delivered and installed independently, which will significantly reduce the cost of insulation work, which is especially important for owners of dachas and small country houses

Bulk

Bulk house can be built partially below ground level covering more wall buildings. The design involves covering the sides and sometimes a roof with dirt to protect and insulate the mound house.

The open front of the house, usually facing south, allows the sun to illuminate and warm the interior. The floor plan is arranged so that the common areas and bedrooms share light and warmth with southern exposure.

This may be the least expensive and in a simple way build a ground protected structure. Strategically placed skylights can provide ample ventilation and daylight in the northern portions of an earthen home.

In a penetrating mound design, the earth covers the entire house except where the windows and doors are. An infill house is usually built at, around, and on top of the ground level. This design allows cross ventilation to access natural light from more than one side of the house. will give the desired amount of heat and other resources in general.

Perhaps in the future people will live in underground cities.

If we recall the science fiction novel by the famous English writer H.G. Wells, “The First Men on the Moon,” the local inhabitants of the Selenites, who lived in “sublunar caves,” created an entire highly organized civilization with a complex society and division of labor. At the same time, they did not understand what war and violence were, and earthly people seemed to them to be enjoying war and alien moral values. Perhaps people will soon live underground, creating a society of the future.

What to consider when building an underground house

About the most specific factors for earth sheltered home design.

Before deciding to design and build a secure, energy-efficient underground home, you will need to consider the climate, topography, soil and groundwater levels.

Climate

Research shows that earth-sheltered homes are more cost-effective in climates that have large temperature swings and low humidity, such as rocky areas and black soil plains.

Ground temperatures change more slowly than air temperatures in our areas, and can absorb extreme heat in hot weather or insulate an underground home to keep warm in cold weather.

Relief and microclimate

The topography and microclimate of the site determine how easily a building can be surrounded by land. A modest slope requires more excavation than a steep one, and a flat site is the most demanding, requiring extensive excavation. A south-facing slope in a region with moderate to long winters is ideal for a sheltered building.

South-facing windows can let in sunlight for direct heating while the rest of the house returns to the slope. In regions with mild winters and hot summers, a north-facing slope may be ideal. Careful planning by the designer will reveal the full advantage of the conditions at a particular site.

The soil

Another critical point is the type of soil on the site. Grainy soils such as sand and gravel are best for building such houses. These soils are compact and well cultivated construction materials and are sufficiently permeable to allow water to drain quickly. The poorest soils are compacted like clay, which can expand when wet and has poor permeability.

Professional soil tests can determine the load-bearing capacity of the soil on a site. Soil radon levels are another factor that needs to be considered when building an underground home because high concentrations of radon can be dangerous. However, there are methods to reduce the accumulation of radon in both conventional and earth-protected dwellings.

Radon is a chemically inert natural radioactive gas, odorless, colorless and tasteless. Radon is formed by the natural breakdown of uranium from rocks and soil.

Ground water level

The groundwater level at a construction site is also important. Natural drainage is far from the building most the best way to avoid water pressure against underground walls. Installed collection system required Wastewater which must be designed when laying the structure of the future building.

Rules for ensuring the mechanical strength of a house

As experts note, mechanical strength Properly constructed frame houses allow them to serve for more than 50 years. Structural reliability is also maintained in various ways. As already noted, much will depend on the supporting system of racks. These are vertical and horizontal elements that form power belts in the form of lower and upper harnesses. Also, jumpers above the openings are introduced into this system. The racks should rest on the floor of each floor, distributing the load over the entire area.

The structure is also strengthened by incorporating materials that are more durable than wood. For example, there is a technology for a combined brick-fill house, which uses one or more brickwork. Actually, the masonry acts as a load-bearing strapping belt, increasing the load-bearing capacity of the base

But it is important to take into account that a brick with a monolithic structure will not allow for proper thermal insulation - moreover, cold bridges can form at the joints. An alternative option would be to use polystyrene foam blocks

These are modular hollow wall segments that can be filled with any bulk insulation.

Walls of a frame structure, importance of calculations

Summer house

It is important to know exactly for what specific purposes the structure is being built. . Maybe this is a neat country house exclusively for summer living

Then the requirements for it will be unique, its walls may well be lightweight.

Maybe this is a neat country house exclusively for summer living. Then the requirements for it will be unique, its walls may well be lightweight.

If it is a solid structure, then the size and thickness of the walls are calculated in accordance with the load-bearing load of the frame.

If you plan a solid building for year-round living, or two-story cottage, or a house with an attic, then it is necessary to take into account, in addition to strength qualities, the mandatory need for insulation. In such a case, the thickness of the walls will depend on the massiveness and size of the timber, and on the thickness of the insulation used.

How to correctly determine the thickness of the walls of a future structure? The calculations must take into account such an indicator as the thermal conductivity coefficient of the materials used.

There is another interesting option for the design of a frame house - using Canadian technology. Its meaning is that for the construction of such buildings, industrially manufactured sip panels are used. When using this technology, the thickness of the load-bearing walls will be determined by the size of the finished panels themselves.

Each frame structure is based on a thoughtful engineering calculation, on the basis of which the specific device and the material from which it will be made are determined.

Backfilling process and its features

Thickness table for temperature conditions:

For backfilling there are the following recommendations. Firstly, bulk material It settles over time, so it needs to be compacted well. It is advisable to use boiler slag and expanded clay in regions where winter temperatures do not drop below -20°C. Insulation of pitched roofs with expanded clay and similar compounds is carried out from the outside, after laying the vapor barrier. Transverse stops are installed along the slope between the rafters - they evenly distribute the insulation.

After laying it on the floor or in the basement, it is well compacted to prevent shrinkage and deformation of the finish. The only problem is moisture ingress; bulk insulation materials are quite hygroscopic. In baths and saunas and, indeed, everywhere, the insulation layer must have high-quality hydro- and vapor barrier. It is necessary to ensure that there are no cracks in the finishing and that bulk material does not spill through them. It is also worth remembering that expanded clay is quite heavy. It is necessary to ensure that its mass does not push apart too weak partitions or walls.

K category: FAQ

How are wooden houses with backfill walls built?

To build a wooden house with backfill walls, they purchase bars with a thickness of at least 20 cm and arrange a frame, which depends on the design of the house. This frame is made strong by connecting it in the right places with spikes with eyes or sockets. It should be placed on a built-up strip (solid) or columnar foundation, placing the pillars at a distance of 70 cm to 1 m from each other. The foundation is well insulated with roofing felt in two or three layers, cutting it into ribbons or strips so that the lower frame can be laid on them. In this case, it is necessary to secure the lower frame of the frame (frame) with the foundation using staples or steel clamps. Then install vertical elements(pillars) of the frame, secure them with a horizontal frame at the top, lay beams, arrange a roof and roof, thereby protecting the frame from rain and snow water.

Then they begin to cover the frame with thin dry boards 20-30 mm thick, firmly attaching them with nails. Sheathing is carried out on both sides. The outer facing cladding must be planed, the boards dry and adjacent to each other tightly, without gaps, so that the backfill does not spill through them, filling the space between the cladding. After filling the walls with backfill, the ceiling is hemmed, lubricated with a not very greasy clay solution or covered with roofing felt. The clay solution is completely dried and only then is backfilled, adding to it as it settles.

The wall covering should be 20-25 cm higher than the ceiling.

To protect the backfill from moistening by air vapor moving from the side of the room in winter, it is necessary to lay an insulating layer of glassine, roofing felt, roofing felt or other insulating material on the inside under the sheathing. Slag, pumice, sawdust, moss, peat, and straw are suitable for backfilling. These dry materials are mixed with fluff lime in the following quantities: sawdust - 90%, fluff lime - 10%.

Frame-and-fill construction technology is a technology completely adapted to our climatic conditions. It is worth noting that this technology is based on the experience and construction approach of our great-grandfathers, who built Novosibirsk with private houses at the beginning of the 20th century. With the help of modern technologies, we have brought a lot of new and improved things to this approach.

We don't build canadian houses or houses from SIP panels, we build Siberian houses and they are frame-fill. Screw piles are most often used as foundations. This is currently the most reliable type of foundation for this technology. Piles are installed at a depth of 2.5 to 3 meters. Then the foundation is tied with hardwood timber and the construction of the floor begins. After this we begin to build the frame of the house. For this purpose very powerful wooden beams 50 x 200, which are lined up just 40 to 60 cm apart. This significantly increases the strength of the structure. After the frame of the house is built, it is covered with vapor barrier and waterproofing, and then it is sheathed on both sides with OSB board, which tightens the already strong frame.

OSB board is a multilayer sheet consisting of wood chips glued together with various resins. It should be noted that unscrupulous manufacturers use glue as an adhesive for thin wood chips. Those manufacturers with whom we work comply with environmental requirements and confirm the safety of this material with certificates. To insulate the house, it uses thermal insulation material - blown-in cotton wool. Blown-in wool is ordinary basalt mineral wool insulation processed into flakes. Using specialized equipment under high pressure, it is blown out and fills the wall space. During the blowing process, the insulation is compressed, and therefore joints and cold bridges are completely eliminated. The thickness of the insulation on the walls, floor, roof and ceiling is 200 mm, which exceeds the norm by 25%. The advantage of this material is its high sound insulation, since the main noise enters the house through technological joints, which blow-in wool does not have. Blown-in cotton wool is an environmentally friendly and non-flammable material, which is confirmed by a fire safety certificate. The undeniable advantage of this insulation is its excellent ability to transmit moisture. This material is “breathable”, and since wood releases moisture even after forced drying using technology, it must come out. That is why breathable insulation plays a very important role. It allows you to avoid the processes of wood rotting, which destroy the walls from the inside, and significantly reduces the life of the house.

Currently greatest distribution received houses of frame construction. In them the supporting basis is wooden frame, assembled from racks, frames, beams and crossbars. It takes the weight of walls, ceilings and roof.

In terms of consumption of building materials and labor costs, frame houses are considered one of the most economical. Other them dignity - opportunity DIY structures. The main work performed (laying a light foundation, cutting boards and beams, cutting sheet materials, installing window and door blocks, installing a roof) does not require special construction qualifications. Frame houses do not have heavy elements that require lifting equipment for installation.

Compared to houses made of logs and beams, frame houses have a number of operational advantages. They are warmer because... they do not have numerous grooves between the logs that require compaction. Even with careful caulking in log houses It is not possible to achieve complete airtightness of walls and corners. Frame house does not produce precipitation, and this greatly facilitates both construction and further operation. It is much less affected by grinders, which often settle in logs and massive beams. Finally, such a house warms up faster when heated and has less humidity, which is important when homeowners visit only periodically on weekends. This is explained by the fact that it is necessary to heat only the thin internal lining of the premises, separated from outer surface walls with effective heat-insulating material. All this taken together attracts amateur builders to the construction of frame houses.

Depending on the design of the walls, frame houses are of two types: frame-panel and frame-fill.

Frame-panel houses

IN frame-panel house the walls are completely finished and finished panels (small-sized panels), manufactured in advance, and only assembled at the construction site. They are usually collected in autumn and winter somewhere warm and under a roof. Made on a workbench according to a template, with high accuracy, careful installation of insulation, steam and wind-insulating materials, neat external and internal cladding, they allow you to quickly assemble a house with high quality construction. The dimension of the boards is usually chosen according to the length equal to the height of the wall, and the width depending on the size of the available cladding material. It is necessary that waste during cutting be minimal. Typically, the module (width) of panels is 1.2 m, but some projects are designed for a module of larger or smaller dimensions.

Frame-and-fill houses

A frame-and-fill house has walls that are assembled on the construction site from start to finish. First, the internal cladding is carried out along the frame racks with the laying of a vapor barrier layer (glassine, polyethylene film), and then the outer cladding is laid over a windproof layer (cardboard, construction paper). The space inside the wall is filled with heat-insulating material. Bulk insulation materials (sawdust, peat, perlite sand) can also be used in backfill walls. As the outer skin is built up, insulation is laid, and loose insulation is compacted tightly to avoid voids and sediment.

The design of the frame is determined by the type of walls that will be chosen for the house. Wall panels assembled on a frame are themselves capable of bearing the load. A frame-and-fill house requires a stronger frame.

Installation of the frame of an infill house

Bottom harness

Work begins with laying the lower trim on the foundation. It can be made from round timber (podtovarnik), hewn into 2 edges - from the bottom, facing the foundation, and front sides. It is better, of course, to use timber with a section of 120x120 (150x150) mm, because it is more convenient to work with him. In the absence of logs and beams of the required cross-section, the upper and lower frames (and other frame elements) can be successfully assembled from 40x120 mm boards, knocking them together into beams.

The wood of the bottom frame, which works in the most unfavorable conditions, must be antiseptic to protect it from rotting. In the simplest case, it is impregnated with 10% aqueous solution copper or iron sulfate. This impregnation does not clog pores, the wood can breathe. Often, novice builders make the mistake of treating the lower beams and joists with waste machine oil or painting oil paint. This leads to wood rotting and the appearance of house fungus, because the oil closes the pores and prevents moisture from evaporating.

If the bottom trim is laid on a solid strip foundation, then between it and the beam a strong, dry board 40–50 mm thick, impregnated with hot bitumen, is laid. In turn, the board is separated from the foundation by waterproofing made of 2 layers of roofing material. At columnar foundation Between the beam and the post a piece of the same board is laid, wrapped in 2 layers of roofing material.

At the corners, the beams are connected to each other in half a tree. At least at 4 points the harness is fastened to the foundation using embedded metal anchors. Right angles in plan are checked using a wire stretched along the diagonals of the strapping. Horizontal level is controlled by level.

First floor covering

After installing the bottom frame on the foundation, they begin laying the joists on which the floor will be laid. The logs are made from boards 40–50 mm thick and 100–120 mm wide. With a wall module of 1.2 m, the logs are placed in increments of 0.6 m, installing them on the edge. They are supported on columns made of asbestos-cement (100 mm in diameter) or scrap steel pipes. Wells are drilled under the pipes with a garden drill to a depth of about 1 m. Sections of pipes are lowered into them and filled with cement mortar. Then the pipes are slightly lifted so that the solution passes to the bottom of the well and forms a support cushion. The height of the posts is controlled by a cord; they are installed at a distance of 1.2 m from each other. Bars wrapped in roofing felt are placed under the logs.

If the foundation is strip, then the ends of the logs rest on its inner edge, and the floor is laid at the same level as the frame. With a columnar foundation, the logs can also be laid on the frame, in which case the floor becomes 10 cm higher.

Using logs or beams as lags allows you to install supporting posts less frequently. And the flooring made of tongue-and-groove boards 40 mm thick makes it possible to increase the distance between the joists to 1 m. It is recommended to antisepticize the wood used to make the joists.

Vertical racks

They are placed at a distance of 0.6 m from each other. Then every 3 racks form a module of 1.2 m. In practice, the module is often selected in accordance with the width of the available windows. Based on this indicator, the breakdown of the strapping is carried out. Corner drains are made more powerful: from hewn logs, timber or two boards 4050 mm thick, connected with nails by an angle or beam. During installation, the drains are temporarily embroidered with jibs to the strapping. Intermediate posts are made of boards 40–50 mm thick. Under and above the window block, above door block install horizontal crossbars from the same board. The window sill transom is supported by a short post. All posts are sewn to the frame with nails 120 mm long, and the logs and beams are fastened with staples.

The width of the racks is selected depending on the insulation used. If, for example, mineral wool boards with a thickness of 100 mm are used, then the racks should be taken with a width of 100 mm. It makes no sense to increase this size, because... air voids will not improve thermal insulation, but there will be an unpleasant prospect of the insulation sliding and settling. Bulk insulation does not create such restrictions. Therefore, the width of the racks, as well as the strapping, is chosen based on the width of the available lumber, but usually no more than 150 mm.

If the outer and inner cladding of the walls will be made of boards, it is necessary to install diagonal connections along the racks between the lower and upper frames. They protect the house from distortion under wind loads and uneven foundation settlements. To ensure that the wind tie boards do not interfere with filling with insulation, they are cut perpendicular to the plane of the racks. If sheet material (plywood, hard chipboard, asbestos-cement sheet) is used as at least one of the skins, then the installation of wind ties is not necessary. Sheets of sheathing nailed to the frame will give the house the necessary rigidity.

After all the racks are aligned and plumb, they are mounted on top harness. It is made from the same materials and using the same techniques as the bottom one. It is fastened to the posts with nails and staples.

Ceiling beams

The highest demands are placed on the strength of these frame parts. In the extreme case, the beam covers a span of up to 6 m without support. If an attic room is installed above, the loads become even greater.

For large spans, the beam must have its original curvature. Its convex side is turned upward so that later, bending under the load, it takes on a horizontal position. Otherwise, the ceilings will have a sagging appearance. In the presence of intermediate support The beam, of course, should be placed level. For a straight workpiece, the desired curvature is obtained by selecting the side facing downward by a few centimeters.

For spans of 3–4 m, beams made of boards 50 mm thick and 150–200 mm wide, laid in increments of 0.6 m, will provide sufficient strength. For large spans, the boards are doubled to increase the thickness of the beam to 100 mm. The corresponding diameters and sections must be when using logs or timber. The ends of the beams are sawed off flush with the strapping, fastening is done with nails 120 mm long.

Rafters

Now all that remains is to install the rafters. Hanging rafters allow you to use the entire space of the attic. The material used is round timber with a diameter of 120–140 mm, a board 50 mm thick and 120–150 mm wide. Rafter beam can also be made from 2 30 mm boards sewn together.

Installation begins with the installation of end rafter pairs. At the junction with ceiling beams cuts are made in the rafters. If the beams and rafters are made of boards, then their joints are reinforced with wooden or metal overlays. They are nailed or bolted to the side. If it is made of round timber or timber, then it is fastened with staples. At the top, the rafters are connected in half a tree. Then a cord is pulled along the ridge.

Intermediate rafters are installed in the same way. If frequent or continuous sheathing will be laid under the roof, and the rafter legs are strong enough (round timber, double board), then the rafters can be placed in increments of 1.2 m.

To make the attic room higher, it is advisable to use the maximum length of standard lumber, which is usually 6.5 m. To do this, the lower end of the rafter leg is only slightly extended beyond the wall line. The required roof overhang, which protects the walls from getting wet, is achieved by nailing the stiles to the ends fillies(pieces of boards from which the cornice is hung).

Another frame assembly technology

You can assemble the frame of a house using another technology. First, the frame of each wall is mounted on a flat area, connecting the parts together, and then it is lifted and installed on the foundation. However, the weight of the structure is quite large, and several people will be required to install it in place.

Panel walls

The dimensions of the wall panel are selected based on the adopted module, which, in turn, is linked to the width of the window opening. In our case, a 1.2 m module was chosen, that is, a wall 6 m long will be made up of 5 panels, each 1.2 m wide. The height is usually taken equal to the full height of the wall - 2.4–2.5 m. Under the windows and Shields of smaller height and appropriate width are installed above the doors.

Wall panel frame with diagonal wind brace

The assembly of shields is carried out on a large workbench. 4 slats are nailed to its surface, serving as templates. They ensure that precise dimensions and angles are maintained.

First, a frame of 2 vertical boards and 4 horizontal boards, 30 mm thick and 100–120 mm wide, is knocked together using nails in the template. If the outer and inner cladding of the shield is made of boards, then a wind brace (stiffening brace) is cut diagonally into the frame. Walls reinforced in this way will prevent the house from warping due to wind pressure (especially with high roofs with attics), as well as in case of uneven settlement of the foundation.

When making at least one of the skins from sheet material, wind braces are not needed.

A layer of vapor barrier material (glassine, plastic film) is placed on the frame. The purpose of the layer is to protect the insulation from moisture, water vapor rushing out of the house.

Normal air exchange in a room occurs due to ventilation, as well as through leaks in windows, doors and other structural elements.

External cladding with lapped and quarter boards

As a vapor barrier, internal cladding boards are nailed - horizontally or vertically, depending on the available material and for interior design reasons. Sometimes the inner lining is made slightly protruding beyond the frame (20 mm on each side) in order to hide the frame post (its thickness is 40 mm) when installing the shield. However, this makes sealing the joint between the shield and the stand somewhat more difficult.

After installing the sheathing, the frame is turned over (the wind connection is at the bottom) and its internal volume is filled with slab or roll insulation (glass wool, mineral wool, peat slabs, reeds). The insulation is laid tightly, without the slightest cracks, otherwise the walls will freeze in winter.

1 - shield frame; 2 - outer skin; 3 - windproof layer; 4 - insulation; 5 - vapor barrier; 6 - internal lining

The next layer is laid over the insulation - windproof. It protects the walls from blowing. Material - thick paper or thin cardboard. Finally, the outer cladding boards are nailed on top. They are positioned horizontally in a quarter or overlap and should reliably protect the wall from getting wet even in slanting rain. Materials for the windproof layer must allow water vapor to pass through. This is necessary so that the insulation into which water has entered can dry out.

With vertical external cladding, the boards are placed 10–15 cm above and below the frame so that they cover the upper and lower frame trims.

The wall panel assembly scheme described above is classic. This or something like this is how they are made in factories for prefabricated houses. In the driven version, the outer and inner cladding is made of boards.

You can reduce the cost of manufacturing panels by using fiberboard for the interior cladding (under wallpaper), and for the exterior - a flat asbestos-cement sheet, which is resistant to weathering, has a smooth surface, and is easy to paint.

Large-sized asbestos-cement sheets are produced in lengths of 1200–3600 mm, widths of 800–1640 mm, and thicknesses of 6–10 mm. They are attached to the shield with a gap of 15–20 mm along a grid of slats using screws protected from corrosion by galvanizing or painting. If these measures are not taken, the walls will be damaged by rusty streaks.

Sheathing with thin sheet material (hardboard, plywood) requires a frame with a more dense grid. It can be assembled from 3 vertical boards and 4–6 horizontal ones. In general, both the wall panel module and the location of the frame boards must be selected taking into account the size of the available materials, so that cutting and waste are minimal.

1 - wall panel; 2 - frame stand; 3 - flashing; 4 - sealing gaskets; 5 - insulation; 6 - sheathing with asbestos-cement sheet

When installing wall panels, they are fastened to the frame elements with nails. Before installation, the outside of the shield frame is covered with some soft and thin insulation along the entire perimeter. After tightening with nails, the gaskets crumple and reliably seal the cracks. Additionally, they can be coated with putty and covered with a strip on top.

Backfill walls

1 - wall panel frame with wind connection; 2 - internal lining; 3 - vapor barrier; 4 - insulation; 5 - windproof layer; 6 - outer skin; 7 - flashing

If it is not possible to carry out frame-panel construction, backfill type walls are erected. With this technology, all work is performed on the construction site. Backfill walls allow you to use not only slab and roll insulation, and also cheaper bulk insulating materials. Good results gives, for example, the use sawdust. Other local organic materials are also used: peat, moss, straw or reed chaff, sunflower husks, tow, and firewood. Before laying them in the walls, it is recommended to antisepticize them (impregnation in a 10% solution of iron or copper sulfate) and dry thoroughly.

Inorganic insulation materials are often used to backfill walls: slag, pumice, expanded perlite sand.

The construction of the wall begins with the inner lining. It can be made of the same materials as the wall panel. The requirements for vapor barrier devices remain the same. The sheathing is carried along the frame posts to the very top of the wall.

Then they begin the outer cladding with laying the windproof layer. As it grows, the internal volume of the wall is filled with insulation. Slab and roll materials are nailed down, and bulk materials are carefully compacted in layers of 200–300 mm. If this is not done, the latter will settle over time, and voids will form in the upper part of the wall. For control and filling, the top boards are removable. The same applies to the window opening. There the window sill board is removable.

The cladding of the lower part of the wall must be carried out carefully, avoiding the formation of cracks. Rodents can penetrate through them from underground into walls. Reliable protection They serve as roofing material gaskets and a tight fit of the skin to the lower trim of the frame and to the racks. The same measures must be taken at the top, at the junction of the wall and the ceiling - this is how mice also penetrate walls and ceilings. In the case of using organic insulation in the lower and top part walls are laid with antiseptic layers to protect against rodents.

After completion of work on the installation of internal and external cladding the joints are covered with flashings.