To be honest, the idea of ​​building a kitchen myself came quite unexpectedly, especially considering that my main specialty has nothing to do with “handicrafts.” Now that it has long been implemented and has been serving faithfully for several years, we have to regularly consult friends and acquaintances about the design and construction of furniture in general and kitchens in particular. So this post is intended to kill all the birds with one stone - those interested can simply send a link, and remember where to go and what to see if you ever need to enter this river again.

Initial data: new flat, the renovation is almost complete. As usual in such situations, the only cash left is debts, and it’s time to think about furniture. Wardrobes and sofas are a costly endeavor, but you want a good kitchen right away, especially after a couple of hours of surfing the Internet about “what happens.” Of course, you want everything, everything, everything, and that it all smoothly opens, slides out, and the like. A visit to a couple of showrooms showed that our needs were met by kitchens whose price was comparable to the cost of a car. The presence of a load-bearing column in the apartment, which had to be “built” into the kitchen, inflated the price even more. In addition, Natka wanted something classic, but at the same time with modern notes, which immediately puzzled the salon managers. I understand design like a pig knows oranges, so it was my beloved’s willingness to take on this part of the project that dispelled the last doubts. For the money that was asked in the salon, it was easy to “screw up” a couple of kitchens for training and build a third one.

Stage one - figure out what and where you can buy

About one day off at the computer, continuously Googling phrases like “cutting chipboard”, “ furniture fittings", "filling for kitchen cabinets""Facades for kitchens". As a result, the following picture of the world emerged:

Stage two - preliminary design
Here, in fact, everything is simple, the main thing is to decide what exactly you need from the kitchen. You need to roughly estimate how much space you need to store supplies, pots/pans, whether you need to have a built-in dishwasher and if so, for how many people. How much free countertop surface will you need for cooking? How many different pieces of equipment will you need to mark in the depths of the furniture (preferably, taking into account the perspective)? The result will be predictable - no matter how large the kitchen area is, you still won’t be able to accommodate everything you want, so you’ll have to choose and focus on the main thing. In our case, the main thing was the place, so we decisively discarded all pretentious design ideas and subordinated everything to obtaining the most spacious, comfortable, and functional kitchen.
Kitchens, as we know, consist of upper and lower cabinets. There are also columns, but it was clearly not possible to squeeze this one in as well. An oven, hob, dishwasher, and large sink were not in doubt, but we decided to do without a built-in microwave and refrigerator.
Height Assembled lower cabinets in most salons are standard - 85 centimeters, but we wanted it higher - 91 cm. It consists of the thickness of the tabletop, the height of the adjustable legs and the cabinets themselves. This way the height of the lower cabinet is calculated.
Width determined by the contents (all sorts of pull-out baskets, etc.) and built-in appliances. As a rule, full-scale dishwashers, ovens and hobs are designed for a 60 cm cabinet. Please note that this outer size closet, not internal. That is, some of the lower tables are calculated almost automatically. You can “play” only with the width of bedside tables with shelves and drawers, but even here it is preferable (although not necessary) to stick to round numbers (most often these are 30, 45, or 60 cm). For example, I ended up with several facades 33 centimeters wide, since I had to play with the load-bearing column and use every centimeter.

Stage three - purchase of accessories and final design
Why do these two stages occur simultaneously? The fact is that the kitchen is ultimately built around fittings and contents. That is, in order to finally decide on the dimensions, you need to know exactly what kind of accessories you are going to buy, or even better, buy it right away in order to be able to twirl it in your hands and finally figure out how it will all be. As a rule, not everything that was planned will end up in the warehouse, and it will be necessary to make changes to the project so as not to waste time.
In addition, we immediately buy built-in appliances. Let it stand in a corner, but we will finally be convinced that it will fit into our closets.
How to transfer brilliant ideas to paper - everyone decides for themselves. After fiddling with specialized software for a couple of hours, I gave up and drew everything in the usual Adobe Illustrator on a 1:1 scale, as taught at the school-institute, in three projections. The trick is in scale, that is, if a part is half a meter long, then in Illustrator it is exactly 500 mm. So put the mouse in your hands, and pretty quickly the drawing was ready. All you have to do is draw one cabinet, and then the magic copy-paste comes to the rescue. In the future, when drawing up specifications for cutting and during assembly, it is convenient to take dimensions directly from the screen - I poked the part with the mouse, and all the dimensions are shown.

What I took into account during the final design and rendering.

• For lower cabinets, the side walls stand on the bottoms and are covered with lids on top. For hinged (upper) walls, it is the side walls that are load-bearing.
• According to the standard (I don’t remember where I found it), the façade should either fall short of the edges of the box by 2 mm on each side, or its height and width should be less than the height and width of the box (pedestal) by 4 mm. In practice, the precision of manufacturing and assembly turned out to be so high, and there are so many “finishing” adjustments available, that it was easy to reduce this gap by half.
• After installation and adjustment, the lower cabinets will be covered with a tabletop, so a solid top cover for the box is not necessary. In addition, most of these covers will have to be holed in vain (for washing and hob). At the same time, it is necessary to ensure rigidity, and the tabletop must be screwed to something, so you cannot completely abandon them. I used two pieces of chipboard instead of a solid cover (clearly visible in the assembly photo)
• Full extension drawers are the most comfortable spot to store something. There are never too many boxes. The more boxes the better. Boxes should be everywhere where they can be stuck.
• The back wall (4mm fiberboard) is usually inserted into a special milled groove so that it is not visible from the side. Since according to my project this very end is nowhere to be seen, I decided to simply nail it from behind.

Stage four - drawing up specifications for cutting chipboard
To place an order, you need to submit a completed form to the company, which indicates the width and height of the parts, as well as which ends should be edged and with what.
With the help of a picture from Adobe Illustrator and spatial imagination, this task can be solved easily, but requires care and double-checking. Looking ahead, I will say that due to a stupid error in the numbers during assembly, I had to adjust a couple of parts myself and edge them with an iron. But these are all minor things.

Stage five - placing orders and revising tools
The simplest one is to take the completed forms to be cut, order a tabletop and facades. In the meantime, all this is being manufactured (usually no longer than 10 working days), it’s time to think about the tool. In addition to the standard “awl-hammer-screwdriver-pliers” set lying around in every home, we will need:

Stage six - assembly
The cherished day has come. We mentally say goodbye to the weekend, call at least one person to help, open the packages of parts, stare at the printed specifications and monitor, and finally put the “firewood” into piles. It's already beautiful...

We start with the simplest “linear” boxes in order to get the hang of it and perfect the technology. However, everything is simple to the point of disgrace. We put a confirm drill in the drill, a hexagon under it in the screwdriver, set it to 8 mm on the caliper (half the thickness of the chipboard), set this distance from the edge of the part and prick it with an awl. We attach one part to another, zip with a drill, insert the confirmation, zip with a screwdriver. If your hands do not shake, then no special devices, clamps or clamps are needed. When pulled to the “factory” end by a Euro tie, the part itself occupies a perpendicular position, even if it was held slightly crooked. At first, you can use a square or a third piece to control the perpendicular, but very soon we get used to it. If you drilled a little not perpendicularly, it’s also not a big deal. The main thing is that they “remained in the body,” that is, the drill did not jump out. Since, thanks to the magic drill, holes of three diameters were made in one pass, they are absolutely coaxial, and nothing more is required. We screw the legs to the assembled boxes. After assembly, we control the perpendicularity with a tape measure along two diagonals.
We attach the drawer guides to the sides before assembling the cabinet itself. It’s convenient to do it on a table - in my case, these were sawhorses left over after the renovation, onto which I added a “finishing” surface from the remains of a parquet board. We attach a couple of “thrust” bars to the table - we get an excellent assembly device. When assembling boxes of other sizes, we twist the bars from time to time to a new position, which takes seconds in the case of a good screwdriver and bat.

So, the simple lower cabinets are assembled. We first try on the oven - everything is like in a pharmacy.

The corner cabinet is a separate story because of the previously mentioned column. After preliminary assembly, we customize it in place. Armed with a chainsaw and a jigsaw, we cut out holes for the pipes.

We begin assembling the upper cabinets. Heavy corner monster - part back wall also made of chipboard for rigidity and strength.

We install a 12-volt lamp into the lid of the display cabinets. After hanging and leveling the cabinets, the wires and transformer will simply be routed over the top.

Using kitchen hangers, we hang the top drawers on a steel rail and level them. We tighten them using furniture ties - we get an absolutely monolithic structure.

The dishwasher is a cabinet in itself, we carefully attach it to the rest...

And connect it to the water by passing the hose under the bottom of the adjacent cabinet

The main assembly is almost finished, the “clean” little things like hanging the facades remain pleasant. We also install the brought tabletop (the joint has already been sawed down at the factory, all that remains is to adjust it a little from the back with a jigsaw to compensate for the unevenness of the walls, connect it with a screed, and screw the tabletop to the lids of the lower cabinets).

We close the bottom with a plastic base, which snaps onto the legs with clips.

Since one of the main criteria was the most efficient use of space, then with the help of such a set...

We make a couple of secret drawers in the base. The wheels run on “rails” hidden inside, allowing the drawers to fit perfectly into place when closing. The rails are attached to the legs of the cabinet.

We attach roof rails to the wall and install lighting working area, which we cover with a decorative strip so that the light does not hit the eyes.

Again, take a chainsaw or jigsaw, cut it in and connect the hood, hob, and sink. On top, using corners, we attach a decorative cornice from a profile accidentally seen on construction market(according to the project, this element was not provided for - I just didn’t think about it). Subsequently, it turned out that another heap of rubbish could be thrown on top of the cabinets, since thanks to the cornice it (the heap) was not visible.

We put a pull-out basket with two trash cans. Since our country has not yet matured enough to sort garbage, it is convenient to use the distant basket for potatoes. During the design, the dimensions were chosen in such a way that to pull out the bucket it would be enough to open one door.

The second door is folding and consists of two facades connected by special hinges from Blum. This design allows easy access to the corner shelves.

That's what the hinge is called - for folding doors. As with all Clip Top hinges, errors in “elbow” installation are fully compensated for by all possible adjustments.

The drying door opens almost 180 degrees, again thanks to special hinges. With regular ones, it would be easy to hit your head on the corner of the open door while washing dishes.

Finally, we adjust the facades and set all the gaps equally. Well, that’s all, the kitchen is ready. The main assembly took two weekends, then two more half days to install all the little things. Yes, by the way, neat plugs to match the color are then put on the visible heads of the confirmations at the attachment points.

An L-shaped furniture arrangement is appropriate for any area, and for small kitchens it is completely indispensable. It’s easiest to just buy a corner set, but you can make and assemble it yourself. For what? The second method has significant advantages:

• A kitchen made by yourself will cost you 2-3 times cheaper than a factory one. The market offers facades, laminated chipboard, MDF, fittings for every taste, and cutting of the material can often be done in the same store;
• In addition, you can independently make a custom kitchen that will exactly match the room and your requirements for space and design;

• And if you do everything right, then appearance, ergonomics and durability of the kitchen cabinet will justify the time and effort spent. In addition, this work will be pleasant and interesting for you, and your loved ones will be grateful and proud!

It is impossible to describe in detail all the nuances of the work in one article; if you are a beginner, we advise you to get acquainted with the website of the famous furniture maker Andrei Lappo and look at Vitaly Luzhetsky’s channel on Youtube. And we will describe the general sequence, give advice, useful links, a selection of videos, as well as photo examples of work with cost estimates. Perhaps we'll start with them.

Stage 1. Planning - drawing up drawings, thinking through the design, taking measurements

So, let's assume you have already planned the design, color, additional features (like the same drawers in the plinth) and place for your future corner set. Next you need to take measurements, and then design a drawing using the data obtained.

Before taking measurements, you should determine the configuration of the corner kitchen set, which may include:

• Corner sink and cabinet underneath;
• At least 2 cabinets to the left and right of the cabinet with the sink. They can be niches for, or they can just be storage cabinets;
• Upper sections (2-5 or more cabinets);
• Places for stationary equipment - refrigerator, stove, etc.

Advice! Vertical measurements must be taken at three points - in the middle, along the baseboard, under the ceiling. This will help level out the difference in measurements due to the curvature of the walls.

It’s possible to design, complete the elements and assemble a kitchen, even if you only have simplest scheme, drawn on graph paper or on a sheet of notebook in a square, where, for example, 1 square corresponds to 10 cm. But it is better to make a thoughtful drawing, that is, a full-fledged three-dimensional color project, using a special program, for example “PRO100”.

When drawing up the drawing, you will also need to take into account the place where the gas pipe is inserted and the place where the hood is installed (passage of the air duct route). A diagram or drawing is created with maximum detail, after which a material cutting map is drawn up. And for this, in turn, a list of assembly parts for each module is required. As a rule, to assemble a cabinet you will need:

• Top;
• 2 side walls;
• Shelves;
• Facades;
• The back wall is made of lightweight but durable chipboard;
• Edge (with a margin of 12%).

And, of course, the kitchen must have a countertop and an apron.

Stage 2. We purchase materials, make a cutting map, detailing and order cutting

Now we need to buy everything necessary materials, make a cutting map and detailing, and then order a cut. The cut material will be ready in 2-3 working days.

Advice! It is better to order sawing in the same store where you bought the chipboard, and not in another place. This is much more convenient and cheaper - you won’t need to order delivery twice.

A cutting map is documentation showing which parts need to be cut from a sheet of chipboard. The map allows you to: see how the parts can be laid out on a sheet, how many leftovers you will get after cutting, and determine how much material you will need to make a corner set with your own hands.

You can make a cutting map yourself in special programs, for example, in the Cutting program, or you can order it in the same store where you buy laminated chipboard.

The nuances when drawing up a cut map are as follows:

1. It is better to make hanging modules of frame furniture from chipboard with a thickness of 16 mm.
2. For modules installed below, on the floor, 18 mm chipboard is used.
3. Width wall cabinets selected from standard model range– 200, 250, 300 mm and so on (dimensions are multiples of 50 millimeters).
4. To make the back wall from fiberboard, you need to reduce its dimensions compared to the parameters of the module by 4 mm.

Advice! Most craftsmen prefer fittings from the BLUM brand.

Stage 3. Preparation of surfaces and tools

Assembly of a corner kitchen necessarily includes preparatory stage. So, all surfaces along which the furniture will be located must be made smooth, and the walls at the junction of the furniture must meet at right angles. In order to assemble a corner set, you will need not only a well-developed detailed diagram, but also the appropriate tool:

• Hammer;
• Pliers;
• Square ruler;
• Jigsaw and circular saw;
• Roulette;
• Knife, awl;
• Level;
• Screwdriver;
• Hammer;
• Hex key for fastening;
• Drills with a diameter of 4.5 mm, 7 mm, 8 mm;
• Confirmations (50x7) or self-tapping screws 3x16, 3x30;
• Hairdryer or iron for gluing edges;
• Conductor (not necessary, but highly recommended! Assembly will be easy and of high quality).

Advice! To install confirmations, holes are first drilled in the parts to be connected, and then the fasteners are screwed in with a screwdriver.

Stage 4. Assembling the corner cabinet

When the drawing is completely ready and specified, and all the elements for assembly are prepared, the most important stage begins - assembling the corner cabinet with sink. It is always collected first, and therefore the process is carried out with maximum responsibility and care. Then, based on the installed corner cabinet, you can make a finished set by attaching the corresponding elements to it.

The main structural nuances of the corner cabinet are:

• Hole in the countertop (almost always this cabinet is made with a sink);
• Holes in the side or rear wall for the passage of pipelines supplying water to the sink, under the drain outlet.

These holes are necessary if the corner cabinet with sink has back and side walls made of chipboard or fiberboard. But an option is also possible when side walls are not provided in this element, and rigidity is provided by special connecting posts.

Stage 5. Assembling the remaining elements of the kitchen set

After the corner cabinet has been assembled and installed, it will be possible to make the remaining elements using pre-made drawings. The sequence of actions in this case is as follows:

1. To assemble the main box and side cabinets, the necessary parts are sorted and places for fasteners are marked in them.

1. The panels are fastened together, legs and rails for retractable systems are installed. To make it easy to assemble elements with retractable guides, you must first assemble the three walls of the box, insert the fiberboard into the bottom, and then secure the facade through an eccentric tie - so that the sleeve in the side wall grips the screw head with façade panel. The rollers on the guides must be located at the back - this is necessarily stipulated in the drawing. The already assembled box is placed in the closet, inserting it there at a slight angle.

Adviсe:

• Wooden dowels used as fasteners in blind holes are recommended to be installed with glue;
• The joints of the drawer walls can be treated with silicone so that the chipboard does not swell or crumble from moisture.

1. Edge cutting can be ordered from specialized companies along with cutting, or you can do it yourself. Glue the edge to the visible ends of the chipboard suitable color, ironing it with an iron in the silk ironing mode, that is, at 2 k. Trim off any excess trim around the edges with a utility knife.

1. Mark the countertop slab and cut it. The joints must be treated with sealant, and the ends are covered with a durable metal strip.

1. Wall cabinets can be secured using mounting plate- one part of it is fixed on the wall, and the second - from the back wall of the cabinet. However, the drawings may also include the usual loops.

1. Then you need to install the facades.

1. All that remains is to integrate the equipment into the niches.

1. The final stage of assembly is the installation of decorative plugs for fasteners and plastic skirting board, hiding the gap between the wall and the countertop.

Beautiful kitchen set from natural wood from the manufacturer

Today, kitchen furniture manufacturers produce a whole arsenal of various products. However, this abundance does not always satisfy the consumer. In this case, a do-it-yourself wooden kitchen set will be an excellent alternative to purchasing ready-made kits.

DIY wooden kitchen in a modern style

Kitchen is one of the most functional corners home, which means that increased operational requirements are placed on its furniture. At self-production kitchen furniture, the following nuances should be taken into account.

– Small area. In apartments old building All rooms are quite compact, and therefore it is important to plan carefully rational organization workspace.

– Exposure to temperature changes and high humidity. Resistance to these factors is mandatory.

– High degree of exploitation. All coatings must be wear-resistant.

Compact corner kitchen from light wood with your own hands

Wooden kitchen for country house with your own hands

Personal participation in the furniture business provides a number of significant advantages.

– Personal quality control of products at each stage of production. Employees of furniture companies do not always show proper responsibility, and therefore various flaws are often found in their products. This can be avoided if you do the kitchen yourself.

– Freedom in choosing shapes, models and designs. You can design a kitchen set taking into account all your wishes.

- Choice quality materials and accessories. The owner is interested in purchasing high-quality components for his future furniture.

– Cost savings. Labor costs are excluded;

– Pleasure from the process. Creating a kitchen out of wood with your own hands is a creative and exciting process.

Unusual kitchen in rustic style, made by yourself

Deciding on design and construction

Simple and reliable wooden kitchen frame

Particular attention should be paid to the design kitchen frame. Kitchen cabinets come in frame and frameless varieties. In frame ones, the frame serves as the basis, making the structure quite stable and durable. It should be noted that the frame is not the most common type of facade for wooden furniture. For a DIY kitchen set, a frameless façade is more suitable. In this design there is no base frame, and the doors are fixed directly to the frame. The absence of a frame significantly expands the cabinet space, making it more convenient and functional. It is important to remember that the appearance of such a kitchen set will be a little unusual. Therefore, adherents of traditional forms are better off opting for frame furniture.

The process of assembling a frame kitchen on site

As for the frames themselves, they also have different variations. The most common are prefabricated and glued. Prefabricated frames are cheaper, but lower quality. A responsible master will not skimp on quality and will opt for a glued frame.

DIY installation of a finished kitchen frame

Choosing the right design is also very important. It must be carefully considered, taking into account the placement of the stove, oven, sink, dishwasher and washing machine. The main design highlight of DIY wooden items is the emphasis on naturalness, simplicity and environmental friendliness. By embodying this idea, the product acquires its true meaning, uniqueness and character. Since the entire composition is a complex and intricate system, it is better not to overload its individual parts with decorative delights. The cozy texture of wood more than compensates for such minimalism.

Original DIY wooden kitchen in rustic style

Necessary materials

Materials for wooden kitchen units

When choosing a material, you should take into account its operational and aesthetic characteristics, and what the final appearance of the kitchen set will be. It is advisable to personally examine samples of wood, study the texture, feel, touch the texture. The most common wood species are:

- birch.

Ash has excellent performance properties. Products made from it are of high quality and durable. Its universal texture is suitable for both classic and high-tech interiors.

Durable material – ash for the kitchen

Oak is a vivid embodiment of stability and reliability. It is resistant to various types of deformation, humidity and temperature changes.

Reliable material – textured golden oak

Beech is prized for its refined hue. In addition, it can be tinted in any color, which gives the master unlimited freedom of artistic imagination.

Unusual material - beech for hand-made furniture

Alder is ideal for classic design DIY kitchens. It is very flexible and allows you to create a wide variety of facades. A kitchen set made of alder is elegant in its simplicity and does not require decorative items.

Alder material - for classic kitchen design

The popularity of pine is mainly due to its low cost. However, its performance characteristics are not much inferior to expensive breeds. In addition, pine has a healing effect by releasing useful phytoncides involved in the prevention of colds.

Texture of cheap material - pine

Another budget option is birch. Despite its cheapness, it is durable and easy to use. There is one caveat - birch is susceptible to rotting, but this problem is easily eliminated by treating it with special compounds.

Budget-friendly and durable material for the kitchen with your own hands - birch

As for the materials directly involved in the assembly process, their list includes the following elements:

– doors for cabinets;

– Euro screeds;

– laminated MDF as the back wall;

– laminated fiberboard for the walls of drawers;

– shelf holders;

– chipboard sheet for table top;

– fittings parts;

All items should be checked for defects beforehand.

Required Tools

Tools for assembling a kitchen set with your own hands

For independent work above the array you will need the following inventory:

– hacksaw for cutting;

– tape measure for taking measurements;

– confirmations;

– screwdriver, emery sheet, hexagon, primer;

– a manual router – you will need it in order to efficiently profile the edges and holes for fittings;

– Forstner drill;

– level for accuracy of placement of parts;

– iron – it helps to glue edge tapes well;

– electric drill;

– jigsaw;

– plane (preferably electric).

Manufacturing process: step-by-step instructions

1. Preliminary preparation

Before you begin assembling it yourself, you need to prepare all the components and parts of the future array. They are cut out from the selected material using a jigsaw. Their saw cuts need to be sanded. Sandpaper works well for this purpose. To prevent moisture and mold from entering, a melamine sheet is placed on each of the cuts. edge tape. In order for the dimensions of all elements to be clearly verified, it is advisable to create a cutting map. There are special services for this on the Internet. Such preliminary work will allow you to avoid errors in cutting. In addition, this diagram will take into account the size of the saw cut.

The initial stage of the kitchen furniture manufacturing process

1. Assembly of elements

Assembling upper cabinets in the kitchen

After taking into account all the measurements, individual parts and elements have been prepared, they need to be laid out in order of assembly. This will make the assembly process more streamlined.

Kitchen cabinets are assembled according to the following algorithm:

• If there are drawers, then the guides are installed first. In this case, be sure to use a level.
• If shelves are provided, you need to drill holes to attach them.
• Separate holes are drilled for inter-wall fastening.
• Its side walls are attached to the bottom of the cabinet.
• The top part is attached.
• The legs are attached.

Once all the products are assembled, you can begin their installation.

Kitchen furniture assembly

1. Installation

If the process of assembling the kitchen coincided with the renovation, then everything construction works must be completed before installation begins. The walls and floor of the room must be prepared for fastening furniture. You can take a piece of MDF as an apron. Installation usually begins with the lower elements. To do this, use a level. After all the products are connected to each other (Euro-ties are used for this), a common wall is fixed behind the entire array.

DIY kitchen installation and assembly

In the countertop you need to mark the location of the stove, work surface and sinks. At each section, corresponding holes are cut out and treated with construction sealant. The tabletop itself is attached with self-tapping screws to the finished cabinets.

Installing a countertop is a responsible process

After this, the upper elements are installed. The most optimal distance between the tabletop and the bottom of the upper cabinets is 650 mm. In order to determine the height of the canvas for fastening the upper elements, it is necessary to add to the indicated distance the height of the cabinets and 10 mm occupied by the fastening structure. The upper tiers are secured with special canopies installed on the rear walls.

At the end of the kitchen installation, the doors are fixed in place with your own hands. open position. For this door hinge fixed on the door and then mounted on the wall.

Installed doors in open position

After installing the headset itself, electronics, built-in elements and various accessories (handles, rails, dryers, etc.) are installed.

Installation oven and built-in hob

Video: Homemade kitchen made of wood. DIY kitchen made from tongue and groove boards.

Blanks from furniture panels

It happens that the choice in furniture stores is large, the price range is varied, but you just can’t find a kitchen set! Either the color is wrong, or the quality is not satisfactory, or the dimensions are not suitable for a particular apartment. Then there is only one way out! Make your dream kitchen with your own hands from furniture panels - a high-quality, rewarding and responsive material.

DIY kitchen set from furniture panels

Advantages of furniture board

This one is environmentally friendly pure material I often use it for making stairs and furniture; it is also in demand in decorative works. The furniture panel is wooden board, but the board is glued and pressed, where is the strength of the connection individual parts happens to be the highest.

Types of lamination of furniture panels

Furniture panels are made from oak, birch, and pine wood. This material is durable and easy to process. It holds nails, screws and other fasteners securely.

The process of assembling a kitchen from furniture panels

Furniture panels are used to make kitchen sets for a number of reasons:

• Durability and practicality. Such furniture can last for more than one year. And during operation it is not subject to deformation or distortion.
• Environmental friendliness. The basis of the shield is wood. And during gluing, PVA glue is mainly used - a safe material that, after hardening, does not emit harmful substances.
• Aesthetics. The appearance of products made from panels is not very different from furniture made from solid wood.
• Low cost. Furniture panels belong to economy-class materials, but the price-quality ratio is the best here.
• Large size range. What makes it possible to make furniture? different sizes, and also save significantly on material.

Kitchen made from furniture panels with an island area

Work design

Before starting work on creating a kitchen set, it is worth updating the entire room. Check the condition of the windows; if you do not have double-glazed windows, then you can think about installing them. Pay attention to the ceiling, how long ago you plastered it. If the walls require new wallpaper, apply it before installing the furniture. You also need to check plumbing equipment. Changing or repairing it after installing the furniture will be quite inconvenient.

Drawing of a kitchen set from furniture panels

In parallel with these works, you can come up with a plan for placing kitchen furniture. It is best to make your own drawing or sketch with the dimensions of the future furniture. It must show the dimensions of the kitchen, communication and ventilation diagrams.

Kitchen set made from furniture panels

Its functionality and practicality in use depend on the arrangement of furniture. Typically, a kitchen set is installed in several ways:

• Linearly, along one wall;
• In the form of the letters G or P;
• With the addition of an island.

Corner kitchen made of furniture panels with a dining area

Before drawing up a sketch, try to imagine what kind of kitchen you want. Consider the placement of built-in appliances: hob, oven, microwave, as well as the placement of the rest electrical appliances and backlight. The classic triangle: sink, stove, refrigerator are usually located close to each other.

note! Sockets and gas shut-off valves must be in an accessible place.

Location of sockets in a kitchen made from furniture panels, assembled with your own hands

In do-it-yourself kitchen drawings, five mandatory sections are distinguished from furniture panels:

• Worktop;
• Gas or electric stove;
• Washing;
• Place for dishes;
• Grocery area.

Kitchen made from furniture panels with a bar counter according to your own design

Furniture set calculations

All communications are drawn on the drawing, which is preferably done to scale. Naturally, the washing needs to be done next to the drainage and water supply outlets. Between the stove and gas pipe should be no more than 2 meters.

Wooden kitchen with geyser

When designing kitchen furniture, the height of the housewife must be taken into account, because she will be the one who will spend a lot of time preparing food. In addition, the sketch should reflect:

• Socket installation locations;
• Location of switches and lamps;
• Height of working surfaces;
• Finding a sink.

Making a kitchen sink from furniture panels

Each element of furniture, shelves, drawers is carefully calculated. There are also free computer programs that will help you correctly make calculations based on the location of the built-in equipment, and select the necessary dimensions of the furniture, taking into account specific wishes.

DIY upper kitchen cabinet made from furniture panels

Required tools and materials

Usually, if a man knows how to do some housework: change sockets, repair plumbing, screw shelves, then necessary tools there are in the family.

DIY door installation

You can check if it is in stock:

• Wood saw or jigsaw;
• Plane;
• Drill;
• Grinder;
• Angle clamps;
• Screwdrivers (screwdriver), hammer, nails;
• Construction level, tape measure, square;
• Chisel.

Each master can add something of his own to this list.

When purchasing furniture panels, know that they can be of different thicknesses: 15 mm are suitable for the back walls of furniture, 20 mm for the rest of the cabinets, 25 mm are used for complex decors.

The process of gluing furniture panels

Furniture panels are cut according to drawings. This must be done carefully using a jigsaw; inaccuracies can lead to distortion of the entire headset. For a beginner, it makes sense to order cutting of the material at the place of purchase.

Screwing door mechanisms using a screwdriver

After cutting, you should have parts for each cabinet, doors, shelves, countertop, sink, and fittings. Check quantity door hinges, handles, ball guides, furniture legs and other components. If you planned a tabletop from the same material, then to protect it you should cover it with furniture oil in several layers, and silicone the ends and cuts.

Kitchen set made from furniture panels in the process of assembly

Note! To prevent the cabinet doors from touching the neighboring ones, they are made smaller in height and width by several millimeters.

Cabinet assembly

The prepared and numbered parts of each module are laid out where it is planned to be installed. Such actions will prevent confusion and loss of some parts.

Kitchen layout from furniture panels

The assembly procedure includes the following:

1. Parts made from furniture panels are pre-ground, polished and varnished. If you decide to make the facades yourself, you can use hand router apply to the front of the doors simple pattern. It is better to carry out such work outdoors or in a special room, because there is a lot of dust and shavings.
2. The assembly of the lower tier of furniture begins. First, the legs are marked and screwed to the bottom of the cabinets using screws.
3. Let's move on to the sides. If soft-closing drawers are planned, then guides are marked and screwed. Usually for such boxes there are detailed diagrams installations. The boxes are assembled and inserted into the grooves. Where there will be regular shelves, special corners are attached.
4. The sides are attached to the bottom panel using corner clamps. The screws are screwed in. To avoid through holes, do not rush when working with the drill. The top cover is attached in the same way.
5. Plywood cut to the size of the cabinet is screwed onto the back side. Facades are installed in last resort. Install them in an open state. The doors are fixed at 95° and the fastening points are marked with a pencil. Place the facades on hinges, attaching them to the sides with self-tapping screws.
6. Finally, the handles are attached, and then the modules are filled with shelves, drawers, and grids. The rest of the cabinets are also being assembled.

Ready-made kitchen set in the kitchen interior

Installation of kitchen units

The entire set is assembled in a renovated kitchen with smooth floors and dry walls.

1. You need to put furniture in place from the outer cabinet. The lower modules are leveled to the building level. If the horizontal line is uneven, problems may arise when laying the countertop. After installation and alignment, the sections are connected to each other with ties. To do this, drill a hole, insert the part and tighten it.
2. A tabletop is placed on top of the cabinets and secured with self-tapping screws. The place for the stove and sink is marked with a pencil, the holes for which are cut out with a jigsaw.
3. The next stage of creating a kitchen with your own hands from furniture panels will be the installation of the upper tier. Unlike the bottom line, wall-mounted modules are mounted on the walls. It is necessary to carefully calculate the weight of each cabinet with shelves and fasteners. Usually they are hung using special loops attached to the back walls from above.
4. The standard distance between the bottom and upper cabinets- approximately 65 cm. This is the height of a traditional kitchen apron. We add to it the size of the cabinet minus a few cm for the fastening. The resulting number will be the height of the upper tier.
5. Finally, they install the hood, sink, hob. Glass and mirror elements of facades are inserted.

Kitchen interior made from furniture panels

Making a kitchen with your own hands from furniture timber is not a difficult task. With a strong desire and a certain skill, you can get not only exclusive furniture for little money, but also the title home handyman, and respect from all household members.

https://youtu.be/uXb6yr_IXtI

Photo gallery (52 photos)

Making a kitchen with your own hands, from designing a kitchen unit to installing and connecting built-in appliances, is not the easiest task for a home craftsman. On the other hand, a modern kitchen is nothing more than a set of cabinet furniture, many of whose elements are standardized, and the assembly technology does not differ from the manufacture of more “simple” home furnishings.

If you have never made furniture from laminated chipboard, I recommend reading this, and as your first product, I would recommend assembling, for example, a sliding wardrobe. Personally, I acted according to the described scheme and at some point I “grew up” to making a kitchen with my own hands.

What kind of kitchen are we planning to make?

Our kitchen has an area of ​​about 8.5 meters, a large tri-hung window and a fairly convenient door location. As a window sill, when installing new windows, I installed a 38 mm thick laminated chipboard table top. Its height above the floor level (920 mm) sets the parameters of the lower section, since it is planned to combine everything into a single working area.

In fact, we need to design a corner set with a total length of 4 linear meters, which will be located along two walls and cover the space under the window sill with facades, resulting in a U-shaped kitchen.

Like anyone sensible person not burdened with extra money, I wanted a “more budget-friendly” one, but I understood that it only makes sense to save on things that do not affect the functionality of the system. Therefore, the facades in the kitchen will be made of MDF, covered with film, and not natural veneer, but the fittings will have a margin of durability and reliability.

Kitchen design provides... What does it provide?! I need to place a bunch of things that are used in the household in this space and make it convenient and work - this is the main message. Color solution and the choice itself beautiful shape pens - things are subjective and should be taken on family council, so I’ll just show you what we got. I don’t dare recommend that this way is beautiful, but this way it’s not.

I didn’t do the entire kitchen project in PRO 100, I just calculated individual complex elements. It is of course necessary to sketch out a sketch and the general arrangement of the structures of the lower and upper tier, but to create a 3D model with an accurate rendering of texture and shadows is only possible if you do not mind your time.

The traditional photograph of the imported cut (this is only part) reminds that even small kitchen consists of a significant number of parts.

We begin assembly and subsequent installation from the corner lower cabinet. As a rule, this is the location of the sink and, accordingly, the water supply and drainage pipes pass through this element.

Assembling the cabinets

All cabinets have a depth of 500 mm, and with a tabletop depth of 600 mm. we get a front overhang of 50 mm. and correspondingly, free space between the wall and the cabinet is also 50 mm. Is this too much or normal? 18 mm facades will be added to the front, but there will also be handles - in my case 30 mm, so the overhang is 50 mm. quite justified.

The pipes, hose for the hob and, in addition, the gas meter pass with a gap of 50 mm to the wall. (if we take into account the thickness of the tiles on the apron and the pressure of the countertop is not zero, then all 60). But the desire to gain a couple of centimeters of depth that arises at the design stage is not justified. For the section with drawers this does not matter, but with the rest of the cabinets it will only cause confusion. We simply order 12 sidewalls for six cabinets, all of the same size, convenient and understandable.

There are 3 connections in the corner cabinet, two of them are in the area of ​​the back wall and are located vertically. The third, when positioned vertically, will reduce access inside, and when positioned horizontally, it will have to be sawn through along with the countertop to install the sink. I took the second route and had to shorten the confirmations, but when opening the door there is no bar closing the opening.

All cabinets are assembled according to the principle of a false bottom, that is, the sides stand on the base. Each cabinet is installed on 4 adjustable feet(for the sink - 6 pieces), subsequently closed with a plinth. In order not to rest your feet when approaching the kitchen work area, the base is recessed.

The distance from the front edge of the cabinet to the base of the support is 55 mm, which in practice gives a normal appearance and ease of use.

Having assembled all the cabinets on one side of the corner, they can be leveled and tied together with ties.

Chipboard table top

In a corner kitchen, the countertops are connected in at least one place. For this purpose, connecting strips are provided that repeat the shape of the mating surfaces. Quite convenient, except that it is necessary to make a hole at the bottom to install the tie rod.

I was specifically interested in whether the connection would be reliable if the installation of a tightening element was abandoned. I was attaching a tabletop to a window sill made of the same material, and my question was addressed to a professional furniture maker specifically about this area.

In fact, the window sill stands tightly and does not allow the connection to diverge. The cabinet on which the joint will rest is located in such a way that it allows you to screw self-tapping screws through the body of its lid into both the window sill and the attached tabletop. I assumed that this would be enough, but the specialist’s answer was categorical: “definitely not!” It’s worth taking this into account and not taking risks, especially since the solution is not that complicated.

We saw off the tabletop to length and, if necessary, give it the required shape. A feather drill, a hacksaw and a chisel will help to make the necessary selection.

Now you can install the tabletop in place. I would really like to perform this procedure only once, but it turns out that the lack of proper experience forces you to pay with unnecessary manipulations. I had to take it off and put it back in place twice, which in conditions small room The kitchen is not only inconvenient, but also increases the risk of damage.

By placing the tabletop in its place and securing it with self-tapping screws through the connections, we get something like a workbench on which we can cut. But there is one problem: when we cut wood, we get sawdust, and when we cut sawdust, we get fine dust, which in the case of a chipboard tabletop is green. You will have to remove it because of the installed cabinets, which is very inconvenient. I had to remove it one more time and saw it in the open.

We install and connect the hob. Nothing complicated, everything is quite clearly described in the attached instructions. The Gorenie cooking company has two ways of attaching the device to the countertop: mini brackets with screw fixation and wedges. I received wedges, which in my opinion should be called “without room for error,” since during installation the surface is pressed all the way. You can't take it back out - the wedges work on the principle of a fish hook.

The junction of the countertop and the window sill began to look like this:

Electrical connection

Moving sockets and switches when installing a new kitchen unit is a common occurrence. Of course, it’s good when, during renovations, you have a design for the future kitchen in your hands and all the wiring is done according to it. I didn’t have a project and this is what it led to.

There is a washing machine in the kitchen and a separate machine is placed in a niche under a group of sockets. I did not imagine that we would choose an electric oven as an oven and place it on the countertop. I had to move the sockets. The only good thing is that in the case of a kitchen, you can install external wiring; anyway, nothing will be visible behind the cabinets.

I also miscalculated the hob during the renovation. For electric ignition, a connection is required in any case and this must be remembered. It’s good that there are sockets nearby and you can stretch the wire through the drywall in a few minutes.

There remain two more electricity consumers present in any modern kitchen. This is a hood located above the stove and lighting of the work area. Here are mine approximate calculations almost coincided with what was actually needed when installing kitchen furniture. The error is only a few centimeters, fortunately in the direction that will be closed.

The conclusion suggests itself - the location of sockets, lamps and the layout of wires is optimally done with finished project. In this case, you will save time, money and own strength, and installation kitchen appliances it will happen much easier.

Washing machine cabinet

How do you make a cabinet in a kitchen unit designed to accommodate a washing machine? The correct answer is no. In the case when the machine is located between two full-fledged cabinets, simply leave a place for it and cover everything with a single tabletop. We have a different layout and had to come up with our own design.

It is assumed that the car will be closed with a facade, so an additional sidewall was added to the last cabinet. To save material, it is quite possible to limit yourself to a bar that allows you to fully install the hinges.

The second side of this conventional cabinet also consists of two layers of chipboard of different sizes in height. Adjustable supports on M6 threads are installed at the lower end. The parts are connected with furniture ties.

The scraps from two tabletops were enough to cover the car only with additional joining. This added extra connecting strip and reduced the aesthetics, but at the same time it works properly.

At the end of the tabletop there is a ledge 16 mm deep, at a distance of 550 mm. Therefore, it is pressed against a part made of light chipboard and rested on a dark one. Additionally, three confirmations are screwed into the end of the tabletop through the body of the light-colored part.

Before installing the washing machine in place, I placed a piece of sheet rubber on the floor, sold in hardware stores under the name “rubber mat.” This is an additional measure that prevents the machine from shifting during operation; however, this mat resists installation in a cabinet with the same force.

The next module to be assembled is the space for installing the oven. The only design feature that can be noted is the presence of a gap for air circulation. In my case, this is the right wall and lid - they are 30 mm. don't reach the wall.

The lid is mounted on dowels, in contrast to the bottom fastening, which is made on confirmations and will be covered with a plinth.

Drawers

It's no secret that various pull-out systems are the basis of a modern kitchen. But many people experience an unpleasant feeling when they get acquainted with the prices of various ready-made solutions from European manufacturers. The number of drawers that you want to have in your kitchen, multiplied by the number of dollars at which the seller values ​​them, is by no means equal to the number of rubles that are expected to be spent on this purchase.

How can you save money and not lose in functionality and reliability? We need drawers made to the dimensions we require, fully extendable and capable of smooth closing with fine-tuning.

The meaning of all ready-made systems extensions, this is the sale of a set of guides and parts for creating drawers various sizes. By purchasing a kit, you do not receive a fully assembled set for assembling a drawer, but are forced to order cutting of parts - usually the bottom of the drawer and the back wall.

If you decide to make the boxes entirely from chipboard, you can significantly reduce costs. In this case, guides are used hidden installation, which are produced by the same manufacturers. The design process must begin with the choice of guides, since the design of the box is tied to technical features extension mechanism.

I used Blum guides, with dynamic load up to 40 and 60 kg. The photo shows that the sides of the box protrude below the bottom plane (13 mm). All recommendations for filler dimensions and installation features are in the manufacturer’s catalog.

Regarding the Blum company, I would like to say a few words. Recommending the purchase of accessories from this manufacturer is like recommending the purchase of Mercedes cars. There are quite a lot of manufacturers and Blum is one of the most famous. His products are reliable, functional, durable and, as a result, not cheap.

But is it always justified to purchase all kitchen fittings from this particular brand? A similar question was raised on a specialized forum and this is what the collective mind decided: there is one type of common device where alternatives to Blum various parameters, simply doesn't exist. This is the Aventos HF folding lift.

Regarding hinges, guides and other things, the opinion of forum members was not so categorical. Actually, I was going to buy lifts from Blum, and I had already chosen the guides and hinges and was going to buy from Grass, but a trip to the Perm representative office of Blum changed my plans.

In addition to the fact that they offered me a price for the lift lower than indicated on the website, the issue with the guides was also resolved in favor of Blum. With a difference of 150 rubles per set, I think the choice is obvious.

In total, the kitchen will have two modules with drawers, four in each. The bottom one is made for storing large dishes and has a useful depth of 240 mm. The other three are equal in height and can accommodate items up to 110 mm.

This is a cabinet above which it is installed hob. Pay attention to the installation of connections, they are located under the top drawer and do not block the air circulation necessary during operation gas burners. The gaps are 6 mm. There is enough air exchange between the front of the top drawer and the countertop.

Pay attention to the filler dimensions when assembling boxes, since for two outwardly similar guides from the same company, but with different articles, a parameter important for assembly may change. I didn’t look for dimensions in the company’s catalog, but simply searched for “installation of Blum guides” and did the drilling according to the diagram from the article. The result is an error in the location of the blind hole in the back wall of the box.

It’s good that such a mistake can be corrected with the help of dowels and a drop of PVA. We hammer the beech dowel into the hole, after applying glue.

We saw off flush with the plane and use an awl to mark the center of the new drilling.

After these steps, the box is securely fixed on the guide and works properly. Since the corrected hole is located on the outer part of the back wall, no one will see the error and its correction.

Kitchen wall cabinets

Here are some questions that arose during the design process:

• What sizes are applicable for kitchen cabinets, that is, their range and what size is optimal (used in industrial series and therefore thoroughly tested)?
• What canopies are optimal for attaching cabinets?
• How to calculate the front for a corner cabinet?

The fact that the width of wall cabinets can be anything and depends solely on ease of use and overall design becomes clear when viewing kitchen catalogs. Looking at the parameters of Ikea products, one can determine that in their understanding, a cabinet height of 100 cm is a common practice. We have forced ventilation installed in our kitchen, closed with a box and the maximum that can be counted on does not exceed 75 cm.

In the Western standard, the most common depth of a cabinet without a front is 37 cm, which can also be considered a kind of guideline. Although, when it comes to depth, it is much more important to start from the minimum. It can be determined by the characteristics of the fittings and equipment used in the dish drying cabinet. In my case, the acceptable minimum was 310 mm. In practice, it turns out that we choose a dish dryer and a lift - their dimensions and installation requirements will determine the depth parameters of the wall cabinets.

Adjustable canopies are made of plastic (only some parts are made of steel) and all-metal. The difference in price is approximately 2-3 times. Plastic manufacturers claim that permissible load calculated with a reserve, etc., but there were precedents for the fall. Of course, this can be attributed to a small percentage of defects, but somehow I don’t want to check it on myself. That's why I chose all metal.

Calculating the size of the facade for a corner cabinet is devoted to sufficient quantity materials on the specialized forum. But the disputes do not subside and when ordering I could not shake the feeling that there was an error somewhere. For straight cabinets and cabinets, the calculation algorithm is clear - the width of the cabinet is minus 3 mm. or 4 mm, if you want to see the gap between the facades bigger size. For a corner cabinet, the calculated width of the facade depends, among other things, on its thickness.

I ordered facades from MDF 16 mm thick. and used the formula: facade width = opening size + 1 mm. In my case, the opening size is 400 mm, respectively, the facade is 401 mm. Everything works and opens, but be it 1 mm. wider, problems with opening cannot be avoided.

The installation of a number of wall-mounted modules begins with the installation of a corner cabinet. But first you need to secure the mounting strip. In my case, the walls are made of plasterboard, and one wall is a partition covered with a double layer of gypsum board. Therefore, it is extremely important to get the screws into the racks.

Unobtrusive domestic service - not all cut parts arrived the first time...

Connecting the hood is complicated by the fact that you have to connect to an already installed forced hood. But when purchasing, I was interested in only one parameter - the noise level during operation. Of course, the manufacturers are lying. They indicate in tables the noise level for the first position of the power regulator. Turn it on to 3 and you will feel all the decibels you forgot to mention.

On the sides of the hood there are two cabinets, when assembling them, it is better to use dowels, at least to secure the bottom. I got a little carried away when drilling and first assembled it like this:

Glue, clamps and beech dowels will allow you to change the appearance without losing strength.

While you are waiting for the facades, life in the kitchen continues and, accordingly, the photographs are somewhat different from the production samples displayed in catalogs...

A niche under the window sill made it possible to organize a small storage compartment.

I did not assemble the cabinets with legs, but assembled the base and bottom into one structure, which will be “tightly” attached to the wall.

Heating battery cannot be closed. In addition, I wanted to have easy access to it, but hide it out of sight. We decided to cover it with a frame-shaped façade and stretch rattan on the inside. It turned out that paint adheres well to rattan, and the process of attaching it to the frame is not too complicated.

Facades

By this time, all the facades were already ready and safely delivered to the apartment. Make a kitchen using MDF facades covered with film, it is not only economical profitable solution, but also an opportunity widest choice color scheme. This option for kitchen fronts is well suited for use by those who do not have serious experience in furniture making. A wood-like film pattern will never replace the tactile sensations of touching wood facades. But if you have an extra 100 thousand for noble material, then, as a rule, the question of “do it yourself” is not so relevant.

The process of installing facades is a pleasant task and brings a lot of positive emotions, because you can finally see the final product of your many days of effort. It is assumed that all the strikers for the hinges were installed during the assembly of the cabinets and cabinets.

Pay attention to the extremely convenient template for marking for installing the striker. I bought it together with Blum hinges and I can say that the thing is very convenient and saves a lot of time.

I install the hinges themselves to the facades using a strip that is pressed against two hinges at the same time. sets their correct position.

We hang the facades and adjust the size of the gaps.

This completes the process of making a kitchen with your own hands. The lighting located at the bottom of the hanging drawers remains behind the scenes. These are 4 overhead LED spotlights, flat - about 30 mm. in height.