When the heating system at home, after many years of operation, ceases to give the expected result and to properly heat the premises, it is time to think about carrying out unscheduled preventive maintenance. Of course, there is no need to rush to hasty conclusions. The equipment must be thoroughly inspected, cleaned if possible. But if all else fails, or it is too old, then the batteries in the apartment need to be replaced with more modern and efficient ones.

Video on how to replace the battery in an apartment

Getting ready for work

Any job, even the simplest at first glance, starts with good preparation. It is recommended to resort to replacing radiators and pipe lines during the off-season, when there is no need for heating. In an apartment building, do not forget about the people living in the neighborhood.

In a private house, each owner is for himself, so it will not be difficult to turn off the water. In an apartment building, it is not recommended to do this without the permission of the utilities. If someone complains about what is happening, they have the right to issue a fine.

Necessary materials

The preparatory stage is not limited only to notification of utilities and agreements with neighbors. One of the issues to be considered in the instructions on how to change the battery in an apartment is the preparation of everything you need. You cannot do without a torque wrench - it will allow you to tighten the threaded connections as accurately as possible.

Having previously made measurements and calculations, you should purchase radiators and pipes, couplings, taps and other components of the system. Do not interfere with American women at the entrances and exits, allowing you to quickly shut off the heating.

Consumables and torque wrenches are only part of the essentials. For work, you will probably need:

1. Electric tool (grinder, drill, puncher)
2. Adjustable wrenches and wrenches
3. Soldering device
4. Drawing accessories
5. Roulette and level

You cannot do without building materials that will be needed for finishing the premises. It is hardly worth relying on laying new pipes and installing radiators without touching, for example, the wallpaper.

We dismantle old batteries

In most cases, heating devices are connected to pipes using a squeegee. It is an oblong thread, onto which a coupling is screwed, and then fixed with a lock nut.

First you need to try to unscrew everything with your own efforts. If they do not give in, you can use special anti-corrosion compounds, for example, WD-40... When working with very old batteries, you should be prepared for a worse option - the pipe connection will need to be cut with a grinder.

At this stage of replacing batteries in an apartment, you should think about and answer the question of how the heating system will be dismantled:

• Completely, together with pipe lines
• Partially, exclusively heating radiators

In the first case, you don't have to worry about how old batteries will be removed. In the second, you will have to be much more careful:

1. First, try to unscrew the locknuts on all wiring so as not to spend money on new ones.
2. Next, marks are placed at the cut points. In order for the new radiator to be level and not have to build up pipes, you need to make sure that the latter are cut at the same level.
3. In this case, it is necessary to leave more than 1 cm of the threaded end on each of the pipes.
4. Having disconnected, the old batteries are carefully dismantled and the brackets holding them are removed from the walls
5. The rest of the thread is tidied up, burrs are removed

After going through the whole house, you need to dismantle each of the ones that will be replaced. As a result, only pipes will remain, which, in case of further replacement, are also carefully removed.

Heating pipe laying

When the old heating system has been removed, it is time to think about a new one. One of the questions of the instructions on how to change the battery in an apartment is the method of laying new pipes. First of all, one of two options is selected:

• Open
• Hidden

From an aesthetic point of view, a hidden gasket is much better. Communications will be hidden from the human eye. However, this method has several disadvantages:

• Further maintenance of the system becomes difficult
• The cost of the work being carried out increases, additional costs for building materials will appear in the estimate
• A certain percentage of the heat will go to heating the decorative structure

The advantages of open heating systems, thanks to which they are preferred, are obvious to everyone:

• Lower cost of installation work, since materials are consumed in a minimum amount
• Pipes are in direct contact with the environment, thereby eliminating heat loss
• Simple further maintenance of communications
• Small time spent on laying pipes

Concealed pipe laying

As noted, hidden pipe laying is laborious and time-consuming work. First, they prepare:

• For natural circulation of the coolant, the pipe is placed directly into the ceiling hinged ceiling, and the outlet risers are run through a protective decorative box
• For forced circulation, a good solution would be to lay pipes in the walls or in the floor.
• Marking is applied to the working surfaces and made with a puncher or grinder.

Directly in the grooves, the pipe is fastened with clips. In this case, near future radiators, the line should end with removable threaded adapters.

It is necessary to start decorating surfaces only after all the batteries are in place and will be.

Open pipe laying

Open pipe laying is more popular. At the first stage, you need to install radiators, an expansion tank, a boiler and other heating equipment.

To make the pipes look aesthetically pleasing, their exact location should be calculated. Diagrams sketched on paper, taking into account the location of the furniture, will not be superfluous.

Open method laying can be organized in one of the following ways:

• An injection upper pipe of a large internal section is laid between the radiator plugs under the windowsill, while the pipe running along the bottom is led along the floor
• Both pipes are fed along the floor, but this method is only suitable for forced circulation
• For natural circulation of the coolant, the lower pipe is launched directly at the floor, and the upper pipe is placed as high as possible

Having decided on the method of laying the pipe line, you need to mark the walls and install the retaining clips. The frequency of their location is 1-2 m. It should be noted that the areas between the radiators are recommended to be made solid. On non-standard areas, two clips are placed at the connection points - on one and on the other side.

Pay special attention to branching and turning. Before trimming, you will have to make careful measurements, have a design and engineering vision.

Installing new batteries

Before installing the heating batteries in the apartment, it is necessary to calculate everything again and accurately measure their location. In this case, one should not violate the rules prescribed in specialized documents. (SNiP):

1. Approximate distance between floor and bottom edge - 15 cm
2. The approximate distance between the window sill and the top edge is 15 cm
3. The gap between the radiator and the wall is at least 2 cm

First, you need to fix the brackets on which the new radiators will be suspended. Then nuts are put on them. All connections must be well sealed to prevent water seepage. It is also recommended to apply tow. There will be taps at each entrance.

The final working stage will be to check the entire heating system for operability. To do this, one end of it should be muffled, and on the other side, a pump or compressor should be created with a pressure that exceeds the operating pressure by 1-2 atmospheres. If after some time the reading of the measuring manometer does not change, you can screw all the connections and connect to the central system.

Additional video

Summing up

Something definitely difficult and impracticable in how to change the battery in an apartment will not work. However, one cannot count on easy work either. After the completion of the work, it is recommended to call the master and let him make sure that the system is assembled correctly.

In many countries of the world, the concept of heating apartments is absent at all, but our climate does not at all allow such a luxury. For this reason, radiators are present in any apartment of a multi-storey building, replacing older stove structures. At the same time, the installation of batteries was most often carried out at the stage of construction of such high-rise buildings, which usually have been around for several decades, therefore the question of replacing radiators periodically arises in each apartment. This procedure is far from the easiest, so it is worthwhile to understand it in more detail.

Reasons for the need

Due to the fact that many Soviet high-rise buildings did not initially assume too long service lives, engineers usually did not provide for the possibility of simply shutting off the water supply in the pipes to replace the battery. Because of this, even during a major overhaul, the batteries do not always change - often they are changed precisely out of necessity, and not on a whim.

There are several reasons at once why it is simply necessary to replace the batteries in the apartment:

• Nothing lasts forever, and metal pipes, which are in close contact with hot water for several months every year, even more so. As already mentioned, some of them have been in operation for decades, so in some cases their wear is not surprising at all. During operation or when heating starts in the fall, such a battery may leak, after which its further use becomes impossible.
• Over time, the heating efficiency of the radiator decreases. This is due to the fact that over the years, deposits accumulate inside the pipe, which thicken the walls of the battery, because of which the heat simply does not reach the room. Moreover, during the repair, the owners often also paint old radiators, which only exacerbates the situation. Since it is impossible to clean the inside of the pipe, you have to replace it entirely.

• Often, the owners are simply dissatisfied with the size of the battery installed in a large room. In their opinion, more sections could be used for a room of the appropriate size, which in many cases turns out to be true. Again, there is only one solution here: dismantle the old battery and install a new, longer one.
• In the end, an old radiator can just spoil the design of the room. Agree, in modern renovation, where plastic and other modern materials predominate, old cast-iron pipes, often peeling, look like a completely foreign body. Whether it is modern counterparts, which in themselves can become an excellent decoration for the interior.

Who is editing?

In theory, the management company, that is, the ZhEK, should finance and carry out the work on replacing the radiators. Since 2006, the Resolution of the Government of the Russian Federation No. 491 has been in effect, according to which absolutely the entire heating system of an apartment building is in common ownership, even if individual batteries are located in a privatized apartment. If the battery becomes unusable in any of the above ways, the housing office is obliged to change it without charging the tenant or the owner of the living space an additional fee, since such replacement is paid for by the monthly payment of the rent.

In practice, of course, everything looks completely different. It is somewhat easier to achieve free replacement in a state-owned apartment, but in privatized housing one will have to face illegal extortion, when the management company demands to buy a radiator for its own money, or even pay for the work performed. Moreover, it will be very difficult for the ZhEK employees to convince that the radiator is really worn out - they will agree with the arguments of the owners, unless the accident rate of the radiator is not just obvious, but inspires concern. This cool attitude is especially noticeable when trying to get free repairs.

Often, the management company also postpones the replacement of the radiator as long as possible, preferring to do with minimal repairs to the existing equipment. Even a noticeable excess of the planned operational period (maximum - 40 years) is not a sufficient argument for the housing office, if they consider it possible to limit themselves to cosmetic repairs. If, however, everything is in relative order with the battery, and the main motivation of the owner is to update the appearance of the apartment, then you can forget about free replacement - if the housing office starts to do this, it will be solely for your money.

In any case, the procedure is not so simple. If we are still talking about a free replacement through the housing office, it is necessary to submit to the institution two copies of the corresponding application, each of which must bear the number and date of the document, as well as the signature of the office employee who accepted such an application. In reality, such a document is needed in one copy, the second is done just in case - to make it easier to assert your rights to free repairs.

In this case, it is necessary to agree on the replacement in accordance with the parameters of the heating system in the house. The fact is that the system of each house is designed specifically to use batteries of the same size as they were at the time of construction, therefore the installation of any other radiator (larger, with increased heat transfer, from a different material, or simply in an unidentified place) can lead to serious crashes of the entire system. If the repair is organized by the housing office, then they must solve this issue on their own, but if the owner does everything on his own, he will need a special permit, unless one radiator is changed to another, completely similar.

A permit can be obtained only after a package of documents is submitted to the regulatory organization, which includes, in fact, an application for replacement and a registration certificate of the living space, a document confirming the ownership of the premises, as well as certificates confirming the compliance of absolutely all replaced components, including even fittings , the requirements of the existing system. In some cases, a document is also required confirming the positive conclusions of the examination about the possibility of modernizing the system. The examination of the thermal calculation is mandatory in situations where the new radiator differs significantly in technical characteristics from the old one or will be installed in a different place, as well as if they want to add new links to the old battery. This service is, of course, not free.

Do not think that getting a permit is a quick procedure. From the moment all the documents were received by the managing organization, two months may pass until the permit is received.

When permission is finally received, you still need to submit an application so that the riser is turned off, and the coolant is drained from it, otherwise, during the repair process, you can globally flood your own apartment. But even this paperwork does not end there, because after all the work is completed, one more examination will have to be carried out - a technical one. This time, the management company must check whether the work performed corresponds to those for which you have received permission, and whether replacing the radiator has not hurt the entire heating system.

Optimal time

It is quite obvious that it is better to change heating radiators during the warm season, when the heating in the house is not turned on - in this situation, the coolant, most likely, is not already in the system, therefore, you will not have to turn off the riser, depriving people of heating. The pitfall here is the fact that even in the interval between two heating seasons, the management company can carry out hydraulic tests of the system, when the heating is briefly started in test mode. Before performing work, it is imperative to clarify when such tests are planned, and be sure to postpone the procedure to the day when they are not.

In life, everything happens and is much more complicated - for example, if the battery has leaked during the heating season, it must be changed immediately, without waiting for summer. It should be noted that the current rules suggest that emergency radiators should be replaced for a fee in a privatized apartment, if it is urgently required - it is assumed that the owner should have monitored the condition of the equipment and applied for replacement even before the situation became catastrophic. For this reason, you need to take care of replacing the old radiator in advance - as soon as it began to cause concern.

Choosing a new battery

It is assumed that the new radiator must necessarily be better than the old one, especially if it was changed not because of wear, but because of the desire to improve. For this reason, the choice of a radiator should be carried out at the very early stages of planning, because without knowing a specific model it will not even be possible to submit all the necessary documents.

First you need to figure out what types of heating batteries are:

• Sectional radiators- these are the very ribbed structures that are considered classical in the understanding of people. Inside, they are empty - the coolant circulates through these sections. A kind of "trick" of this solution is the ability to increase the number of sections without replacing the radiator itself, which will improve the situation with heating in the room. This modernization has only two limitations: the brackets must withstand the heavier structure, and the heating system must withstand the increased load. Such batteries are made from completely different materials - there are cast iron, aluminum, steel and bimetallic (from two different metals) radiators. Each of the materials has its own advantages and disadvantages, which will be discussed in more detail below.

• Column batteries resemble sectional ones, but it is problematic to build them up due to the design features. The water here passes through two horizontal collectors, which are interconnected by a certain number of vertical columns. Such radiators are available in aluminum and steel.
• Panel radiators They differ in a completely atypical look - their coolant is supplied not through pipes, but into flat panels, due to which heat transfer occurs much faster. This type of construction is produced exclusively from rolled steel.

When deciding on the choice of a specific radiator, one should pay attention to its practical characteristics, which largely depend not only on the type of construction, but also on the material from which it is made:

• Strength of materials- this is the main criterion on which the durability of the performed repair depends. The radiator must withstand the pressure of the supplied coolant with a significant margin. The instructions indicate the working pressure - that which does not harm the product, and the test pressure - the limit, from which the battery does not burst immediately, but wears out extremely quickly. It is the working pressure prescribed in the instructions that you should pay attention to. It should be noted that water is supplied to the 9th floor at a pressure of 6 atmospheres, however, for the 22nd floor, as many as 15 atmospheres are required, so different batteries are needed for different floors of the same house. Because of this, very "warm" aluminum radiators are suitable only for the private sector, and they are practically not used in high-rise buildings. Cast iron products are relatively inexpensive and therefore popular, but their limit is 9 atmospheres, so they are also inappropriate above the ninth floor. It turns out that only the best steel and bimetallic structures are suitable for the uppermost floors.

• Anti-corrosion qualities Is also an important characteristic. As you know, even a stone can be sharpened, and metal - even more so. The strength of the product does not matter if, due to interaction with water, it quickly rusts and loses its original qualities. In this context, aluminum again turns out to be the most useless, and if the choice still fell on it, when pouring water into the radiator, you need to mix in special anti-corrosion additives that will protect the material. As for cast iron, there is no better material in this sense.
• Indoor battery it is installed so that there is heat in it, therefore it is unacceptable to ignore such a moment as the thermal conductivity of the material from which the radiator is made. Here it should be borne in mind that not only the material, but also the wall thickness has an impact on the final indicator, therefore the exact thermal conductivity is usually specially indicated in the accompanying documents. When calculating, one should proceed from the fact that for each square meter of the room, 80 watts of power are needed if the ceilings are low and the walls are insulated, and as much as 120 watts if the description of the room looks completely the opposite. This indicator is the main factor due to which aluminum radiators are popular, because they give off heat better than any other materials.

Preparation for work

The first thing to do before starting repairs is to turn off the riser. It is much better if the replacement is done before the radiator has reached a catastrophic state - then you can perform the replacement in the summer, without shutting down the riser. A correctly chosen date, which is not included in the heating season and for which tests are not scheduled, will avoid unexpected flooding. Nevertheless, a thoughtful owner will definitely prepare special dishes in advance in order to collect water in it, which could have remained in the heating pipes since the heating season.

Ideally, it is better to agree in advance with the neighbors above and below. so that the new pipes dock with the old system not in your apartment, but in the neighboring ones - when docking with the old radiators of the neighbors. Because of this, the cost of parts will increase slightly and you will have to agree on dates with your neighbors, but the procedure will be much easier and more comfortable, and your apartment will definitely not be invaded with a new renovation. For neighbors, there is also a benefit in this, because at least part of their heating system will be updated. If an agreement does not work out, you will have to shred metal pipes right in the middle, in your apartment, because of which the repair will turn out to be somewhat defective.

If the neighbors have met halfway, it is necessary to carry out large-scale measurements of the entire front of work. It is worth calculating the diameters of the outlet pipes for both neighbors and at home, as well as measuring the potential length of the pipe, taking into account the floors. After that, you can go to buy all the components. Do not think that everything will be limited to one radiator - you also need to buy special pipes and taps for them, which allow you to shut off the heating only at home, as well as various plugs and gaskets that ensure uninterrupted operation of the system even when your battery is removed.

If the work is done with your own hands, it is worth stocking up with tools - a complete set, including a soldering iron and various keys, a drill and a grinder, a level, a pencil and a tape measure. If the neighbors refuse to interact, you will also need a special threading tool.

Dismantling and marking

When everything is ready for replacement, you can dismantle the old radiators. As a rule, they are attached to the pipe with a squeegee - a characteristic threaded connection, which is quite simple to unscrew. If there is one, it is logical to start by untwisting it. Most likely, the pipe will still have to be partially cut off, especially if the new battery is larger than the old one, but then, if possible, it is advisable to leave at least one centimeter of the old thread, and if it does not work out, you will have to weld on or cut a new one. It is worth noting that the old pipe may burst when you try to thread over it, so in this case it is better to work with welding. If the new battery is suddenly smaller than the old one, pipes are extended in any way possible.

Separately, it must be said that the cut edge of the pipe must be perfectly flat., otherwise you shouldn't even hope to hang a new radiator in the house exactly. The level in the process of dismantling is needed precisely for this - so that the master can clearly define and pre-mark with a pencil the line of the future cut. If it still turned out crooked, the edge can be trimmed with a grinder. The battery can then be removed from the brackets on which it is held. As a rule, along with the old radiator, the old brackets are also replaced.

After that, you should carefully mark the area, because it is impossible to hang the radiator correctly if you cannot tell in advance exactly where it should be. Here, too, everything is not done at random - there are certain requirements that it is desirable to fulfill. For example, the distance from the floor to the battery should be about 10-15 centimeters, otherwise there will be problems with wet cleaning, and ventilation will not work. The battery should not be raised much higher simply because otherwise it will interfere with the windowsill, which, by the way, must also be at least 15 centimeters away - for similar reasons. Finally, the battery should not be pressed against the wall either - at a distance of 3-4 centimeters, such an obstacle does not interfere with the release of heat and its further reflection back into the room. All of these points are adjusted by the location of the new brackets and their screw-in depth - which is why the old mounts are not used even if they still look well preserved.

Installation steps

It doesn't matter if you are installing a new radiator yourself or have resorted to the services of a hired worker - in any case, it is worth understanding what the procedure for installing a new battery looks like in order to know how soon the procedure will end. You can do all the work with your own hands, if you clearly understand the algorithm of actions.

As already mentioned, first you need to make sure that the riser is disconnected. If suddenly a replacement is needed during the heating season, the urgent need can be argued either by an emergency situation, or by too low a temperature in the apartment where the children constantly live. When the riser is turned off, and all the coolant is released from the system thanks to the open drain valve in the basement, you can proceed to the installation process. At the same time, in the case when it is required to replace all the radiators in the apartment, it will be necessary to turn off each riser one by one, about which the housing office should be warned.

First you need to prepare all the components. The radiator is supplied "naked", therefore it is necessary to immediately equip it with integral parts such as foot nuts. If it is planned not so much to replace the radiator as to replace the section or increase their number, you need to perform all the necessary manipulations with the radiator. At this moment, a new thread is cut on the pipe scraps, or, if the material seems too old and worn out, a new fragment with a ready-made thread can be welded to the old one by gas welding.

A sealing material is applied to the threads of the valves, which can take on the most unexpected shape. The most suitable and versatile solution is considered to be linen tow, impregnated with silicone sealant or even just well painted with any paint, except for water-based paint. To begin with, the thread is painted, then in a certain way (clockwise, as tight as possible and in the form of a cone) tow tow is wound on it and everything is painted over again, not sparing the paint. After that, the taps are screwed onto the pipe threads almost to the stop, and the protruding "extra" tow is thoroughly impregnated with paint again to prevent leaks.

The next step is fitting the radiator to the structures being erected. To do this, you need to find a stand of the appropriate height, which would be able to withstand the weight of the battery, and install the structure in such a position in which it should be in the assembled form. At the same time, the general positive impressions of the visible position should not provide confidence in the correct position of the battery - you need to check whether it is normally connected in this position with the taps screwed onto the pipes. If so, you need to formally secure it by connecting it to the cranes, and proceed to marking the fasteners.

The radiator is usually held in place with four brackets screwed into the wall, however, for the correct and stable position of the battery, it is very important that they represent a clearly horizontal line. For this reason, first, the initial marking of potential points for drilling is carried out, then their horizontalness is determined due to the level, and, if necessary, corrections are made. If the level shows an even horizon, you can drill holes in the wall for the brackets and fix them, and at this stage it will also not be superfluous to use the level to check the result. If the line turns out to be horizontal, a new radiator is installed on the brackets, and all transitions from the pipes to the battery are fixed with the nuts of the detachable connection. After that, it is worthwhile to once again make sure that all fasteners are tight and improve them with the help of sealants and welding.

System test

Ideally, the examination of the results of the completed work is carried out in the presence of representatives of the ZhEK, however, if the work was carried out independently, such a procedure can be performed without them in order to immediately correct possible shortcomings. To do this, first, the supply of the coolant to the riser is resumed, in the meantime, air is gradually released from the newly installed radiator. For these needs, a pre-installed part is used, known as the Mayevsky crane - when water instead of air comes from its hole, this will mean that the coolant has already reached the apartment. At this moment, Mayevsky's tap closes, instead, a tap opens, letting water into the radiator.

After that, you should wait a few minutes to make sure that the new battery is filled with water. If the central heating system in the apartment is not leaking anywhere and any strange phenomena are not observed, then the replacement was successful. If the procedure was performed outside the heating season, it is recommended to close the taps after the examination so that water that destroys the material is not stored in the radiator all this time. At the time of starting heating in the fall, the taps must be opened again, letting hot water into the battery, otherwise the coolant will not enter the radiator or burst the pipe.

Sooner or later, everyone has to change radiators. The reasons may be different: the appearance of a leak, deterioration of heat transfer, clogging, unpresentable appearance. In any case, there is only one way out - replacement.

In an apartment, the replacement of heating batteries should take place only with the permission of the operating organization. The point is that the heating system is communal property. And any changes to it - replacing pipes and radiators, installing control or shut-off valves - is a change in its design. All these modifications change its hydraulic resistance. This can lead to the fact that no matter how heated the coolant, the batteries will remain cold. Therefore, a permit is required for all types of work: an engineer or foreman will assess how the planned alteration will affect the state of the system and issue a permit or not. Before buying batteries, visit the ZhEK, DEU, DEZ, etc. If you do not do this, you will be subject to administrative fines. And the size of the sanctions is rather big.

It is difficult to replace radiators and pipes in an apartment and not inform the control campaign: it is required to drain the system, and it is impossible to do it secretly. Your work will not remain unnoticed. In general, in order to drain the water, you need to write a statement (before the end of the heating season). In the summer, when the season is over, the team will do the work.

The choice of heating radiators for an apartment and a house

With the choice of radiators for the home, everything is simple: if the system is with forced circulation (with a pump), put those to which the soul lies, or which are compatible with your pipes, boiler, etc. There are some restrictions for systems with natural circulation - heating devices with low hydraulic resistance are needed, and these are:

And you will also need to take into account the type of coolant: not all radiators can work with antifreeze. With non-freezing liquids, they are normal and. In all others, only some models that have gone through special processing can be used. In this case, you need to purposefully search for them. And one more thing - you will need to choose the right sizes (more on this a little further).

When choosing batteries for an apartment, there will be more criteria: the conditions are more complicated. You need to start, perhaps, with the sizes. You need to choose so that the following distances are observed:

• from the floor - 8-12 cm;
• from the windowsill - 10-12 cm;
• from the wall - 3-5 cm.

Moreover, the heater should cover at least 70-75% of the width of the window opening. Violation of these recommendations leads to a decrease in heat transfer or to the fact that there will be obvious zones of heat and cold.

Then you need to take into account the technical parameters of your system: the hydrogen activity Ph of the coolant, the degree of its contamination, the maximum temperature, the operating and test pressure (when starting the system). All these parameters can be found in the DEZ, ZhEK, etc. For all these criteria, choose the type of radiator. This question is described in detail in the article "". In short, we can say the following:

In other cases, you can install any radiators, but pay attention to the technical characteristics of each model. Even for one manufacturer, they can differ significantly.

And one more thing when choosing the thermal power of one section: maximum power is not always a justified approach. It is advisable to comply with the SNiP norm: the radiator must cover at least 70-75% of the window width. Only in this case, cold air from the glass will be effectively cut off and will not fall on the floor. Therefore, a powerful and short battery is far from the best solution.

After the permits are obtained (if necessary), the radiators are selected and purchased, you can proceed with the replacement of the radiators.

How to change batteries yourself

In short, the procedure for replacing radiators is as follows:

• Draining the system.
• Dismantling of old radiators and removal of old holders, sealing of traces from them.
• Marking for new mounts.
• Installation of brackets.
• Installation of fittings on the radiator.
• Hanging up the radiator.
• Connecting pipelines.
• Testing (crimping).

Draining the system

In multi-storey buildings, this is done by employees of the operating organization at your written request. In a private home, you will need to open the drain tap, substitute a container, or take the hose down the drain and pour out the water.

In some cases, it is possible to work on a filled system: if there are shut-off valves at the inlet of the radiators, the connection of new ones is the same, replacement of pipes is not planned. Moreover, the connection should not be welded, but on threaded connections. Then just shut off the ball valves and start replacing. With such an organization, heating devices can be changed or repaired at any time, even during the season.

The first step when replacing radiators is to drain the system

But for vertical one-pipe wiring, a bypass must also be installed in front of the taps. The coolant will pass through it if you turned off or removed the radiator. Without this piece of pipe, heating on the entire riser will become: there will be no movement of the coolant. Therefore, with one pipe system, the best connection is with a bypass and shut-off valves. If this is not the case, it is possible to change the radiators in the apartment only after the end of the heating season.

Dismantling radiators

The method of carrying out the work depends on the type of connection. If the connections are threaded, the nuts are simply unscrewed, if the radiators are welded, they are cut off. At this stage, you will need more containers for the coolant - some of it still remains in the pipes and in the radiators. The most convenient are basins, ideally if they are rectangular.

The nuts can be loosened using adjustable or open-end wrenches. Problems can be if these are old cast-iron radiators that have stood for more than a dozen years. Then it happens that the thread boils so much that it is difficult to move it from its place. In this case, try to warm up the connection with a blowtorch.

With old fasteners, the situation is similar: where possible, the holders are unscrewed, where it is impossible, they are cut off. The hooks embedded in the walls, on which the old cast iron was hung, can only be cut off. Only before that, it is necessary to remove a certain layer of plaster around - so it will be possible to cut them off so that they do not stick out of the wall.

Then the traces of the fasteners are repaired, the wall is leveled. Many manufacturers have a prerequisite for providing guarantees: install on flat walls. And it's not about aesthetics, but about heat transfer - heat rays are better reflected from a smooth wall.

Marking and installing new mounts

How to install the radiator correctly? Strictly in the middle of the window opening. Therefore, you need to find the middle on the wall, mark it. Then you determine where the fasteners will be located on the radiator. Sectional type heaters are hung on at least three brackets: two on the top - right and left, one on the bottom in the middle. If there are many sections (more than 10-12), you may need three hooks at the top and two at the bottom. Having decided how many holders are needed, measure the distances on the assembled battery, mark on the wall.

Now hang the radiator on the mounts. Be sure to check its verticality and horizontalness, if necessary, adjust the position of the holders. The heater must hang strictly horizontally. A slight bias is allowed in the direction where the air vent is installed (upper manifold, opposite the supply connection). This side may be 1 cm higher than the other. Reverse slope is not allowed.

Connecting pipelines

The question often arises: how to properly install the heating battery. There are several schemes with side connection, but only three are the most effective and common:

With insufficient heat transfer from radiators, the first idea that comes to mind is to increase the number of sections. But such a measure may not improve, but only worsen the situation. Either replacing the connection type with a more efficient (diagonal) one or (easier to implement) installing a flow extension will help.

It is a long tube with a squeegee that fits into the supply manifold. It conducts the coolant further, as a result, it is distributed more evenly. The tube length is either up to ¾ of the radiator width or up to the middle of the last section. Different options work better in different situations. First of all, put to the last section, if the result is "not very" cut a piece of the tube. This is a very effective way to increase heat dissipation if the radiator does not heat well. Only changing the connection to a diagonal one can work better, but technically it is more difficult to implement - you need to work with pipes. And the flow extension is simply put into the foot (adapter).

Now you know how to change batteries in an apartment or house, and how to increase their heat transfer. It is not easy, but special education is not required either.

Outcomes

Replacing heating batteries is not the easiest, but also not the most difficult process. It is more difficult to do this in an apartment, firstly, because of legal intricacies, and secondly, because of the more difficult operating conditions. Nevertheless, even a non-specialist can handle the replacement of heating radiators with your own hands.

Heating technology is getting better every year. The new generation radiators in their characteristics are in many ways superior to the outdated battery models. Therefore, the question of replacing heating radiators in an apartment arises more and more often. Installing modern heating devices is akin to buying new household appliances, which significantly increases living conditions in a house.

Why change batteries?

Heating devices that have been working in an apartment for many years (especially if they are 20 or more years old) have long exhausted their resource and are unlikely to be able to provide high-quality heating of the room.

Not everyone can boast of good heating in their home during the winter period; many blame service companies and the poor performance of boiler houses. But the problem is literally under the nose. These are batteries that need to be replaced for a long time.

If in private houses you can regulate the heat with your own hands using a valve in a heat boiler, then in city apartments it is more difficult to do this. Old cast-iron batteries simply do not have such functions, and their power is already weak. In these cases, replacing the heating batteries in the apartment is simply necessary.

When to replace

It is best to do this in the summer when the central heating is off. In the summer, it is much easier to get a permit from the housing office to replace heating radiators. Usually this item is the most difficult of all, so it is worth hurrying up on time when there are no queues. Do not wait for the beginning of autumn, when the number of those who want to make repairs will increase significantly. Agree that few people enjoy hanging around on their nerves in line for several hours.

Consider the fact that the old cast-iron batteries have long worked their way out, which means they can become unusable at any time. The consequences of a serious accident will be not only more difficult to eliminate, but also much more expensive. In addition to replacing the heating equipment, you will have to make repairs in the apartment. If the situation is completely critical, deal with the neighbors below in case of flooding.

What heating equipment is better to choose

Replacing radiators in an apartment is a serious matter. Here you will not be able to come to the store and choose the first model you like. Repair will require preliminary calculations. Otherwise, you risk only hurting yourself. Miscalculations will not be noticeable immediately, but only during operation, which will be doubly unpleasant. You will have to repair or replace a new unit.

If the technological characteristics of the batteries do not correspond to the operating conditions, then they will not last you long. Take into account the size of the room, the material of the pipes, the design features, or seek professional advice. Approach the matter with all responsibility, there is no need to rush.

Modern battery manufacturers (Russian and foreign) offer a varied selection of models made of cast iron, steel, copper, aluminum, or two metals at the same time (bimetallic heating devices). Depending on the material and design features, any battery requires different conditions. When choosing radiators, you need to pay attention to such parameters as:

• maximum coolant temperature;
• pressure and composition;
• heat transfer.

Consider the appearance and design of batteries, a heating device nowadays is not only a means for heating a house, it is also a decorative element in the interior.

Before replacing heating radiators in an apartment, ask about the features of your heating system. There are different types of heating systems:

• open, used in multi-storey buildings.
• closed, led to a private house.

These technical parameters are extremely important taking into account the conditions of subsequent operation. For these reasons, be sure to look in the battery passport for the apartment for the permissible temperatures and pressures.

Battery passport

Replacing batteries with your own hands in an apartment is complicated by the peculiarities of the old heating system, which was used back in the days of the USSR. Such systems are characterized by periodic jumps in pipe pressure and temperature. The situation is no better with the quality of the coolant. The maximum permissible temperature in such systems is +105 degrees, and the pressure is 10 atm. Sometimes these indicators go off scale when, with the onset of cold weather, heating is started. Imported batteries are not designed for such overloads and quickly fail. Panel radiator models made of aluminum can be used in high pressure conditions. Anodized coating does not require an additional layer of paints and varnishes.

Another important parameter is heat transfer. After all, it is on him that the efficiency of heating the room depends. The heat transfer itself depends not only on the area of ​​the radiator itself, but also on the metal. In this regard, steel and aluminum have the lowest rates. Maximum heat transfer for cast iron and copper. The quality of heating also depends on the design. Vertical batteries, despite their large area, heat up the air worse. In this case, a significant portion of the heat accumulates under the ceiling.

When choosing a battery, do not focus on only one indicator. Weigh the pros and cons, evaluating all the advantages and disadvantages of heating devices.

What material for connection is better to choose?

Many different materials are used when replacing radiators. Before starting the repair, it is important not only to choose the best suitable battery model, but also the pipes for connecting to the system. The main connection options are welding (steel requirements), propylene and metal-plastic.

The most popular are metal-plastic pipes. They are lightweight, affordable and easy to install. Such pipes look neat in the interior. However, metal-plastic has disadvantages. The material burns, and during installation it is necessary to make several connections, the condition of which must be constantly monitored to avoid leaks.

Plastic pipes will cost more, but their quality and service life are 100% worth their price. The plastic does not rot, does not corrode, and the joints have high strength, which reduces the risk of leakage to zero. Plastic has no drawbacks. The only thing that can spoil the mood is the wrong assembly.

Steel pipes are the most durable of all. They are resistant to any damage, heat up well, which means they will also warm the air in the room. The disadvantages of such pipes are the occurrence of rust and a complex installation that requires welding.

Choice of fasteners

When replacing heating radiators in an apartment with your own hands, you need to choose the right fasteners. They differ depending on the heater model and the wall material.

Both angle and pin brackets are suitable for securing sectional batteries. The latter option is used on gypsum, brick and concrete walls, while corner ones are better suited for wooden ones. Corner brackets are attached to the wall using dowels or self-tapping screws. If necessary, the fasteners are mounted in the floor. They usually come with a battery, for example, along with panel radiators.

Where is the best place to install heating devices?

For the most efficient heating, it is necessary not only to choose the right radiator, but also to position it correctly. The most suitable place for installing batteries is under the window.

Correct location of the heating radiator

Some models, such as vertical ones, are installed on a load-bearing wall anywhere in the room. Batteries located under the window will prevent cold air from the street from entering the room, heating it up and raising it to the ceiling. For proper operation of the heater, it is important to maintain the required distance to the wall, window sill and ceiling.

The distance to the wall should be 3 cm, and to the floor and window sill - about 10-15 cm. Some models need to be installed at a barely noticeable slope so that air does not accumulate inside.

1. Do not cover radiators with curtains, decorative screens or furniture. This will distort the operation of the thermal heads, impair the heat transfer and the efficiency of the device.
2. Water shocks that periodically occur in the heating system due to pressure drops can damage the radiators. Best of all, such loads withstand bimetallic models made of steel and aluminum. They are installed in the same way as heating devices made of other materials.
3. Take equipment with an increased number of sections (by 10%), since the thermal power indicated in the passport of the device by the manufacturer is far from always confirmed during operation.

Pre-assembly of units

The assemblies must be assembled in advance: put the gaskets, screw on all the plugs, screw on all the taps, including the "Mayevsky" valve. Mark the pipes and cut them into the required number of parts. Weld elbows or tees.

Crane "Mayevsky"

How to negotiate with housing department

When you have prepared all the components and pre-assembled the units, it's time to agree with the maintenance service to turn off the heating riser for half a day or more.

This stage is the most difficult, often you have to deal with the persuasion of workers to use the services of plumbers. You may be convinced that replacing radiators is a difficult and dangerous process that requires professional skills. If you are confident in your ability to handle the repair yourself, stand your ground. The whole procedure will cost about 500 rubles.

Dismantling old heaters

Most often, pipes with radiators are connected using a squeegee - a thread onto which a coupling is screwed and fixed with a nut. You can try to unscrew all this on your own. If it does not work out, then special anti-corrosion compounds. But if the battery is too old, you will have to act radically - cut it out with a grinder.

Until you dismantle the old battery, decide how you will mount the new one:

• together with pipes;
• heating radiator only;

In the first case, there is not much difference in how you remove the old battery. In the second situation, you have to do everything very carefully:

• Try to unscrew all locknuts. They can be used later when installing a new heating unit.
• Mark the cutting areas. The new battery should sit flat in place of the old one. The slightest miscalculation and you will have to build pipes.
• Be careful when cutting pipes. Leave at least 1 cm of thread intact.
• After disconnecting the old battery, carefully remove it and remove the brackets from the walls. Remove burrs from remaining threads.

Disassemble the rest of the batteries in the house, if necessary. As a result, you should be left with only bare pipes. Remove them carefully if you plan on completely replacing the heating system in your home. Cut them after turning to the neighbors above and below.

Installation of new heating devices

Changing an old battery to a new one is easy enough.

• Install the new battery in place of the old one and see if the pipes need trimming. If necessary, make markings and saw off excess.
• Make sure the new heatsink fits properly. Make a markup for the new brackets, there should be at least 3 of them.
• The brackets are mounted in the wall with dowels and sealed with cement mortar.

• Install the radiator wrapped in a protective film on the mounts. When doing this, make sure that the bottom edges of the battery lie directly on the brackets.
• The only thing left is to connect the battery to the supply pipes at the top and bottom. Do not forget to install an air vent in one of the battery holes at the top during the repair process. Its outlet must be directed strictly towards the ceiling.
• Once you have connected the battery to all communications, remove the protective film from it.

1. Experts recommend installing a special valve or valve to regulate the flow of water in the system. By decreasing or increasing the pressure of the coolant, you can regulate the temperature in the apartment.
2. This is convenient during repairs, when only one heating device needs to be repaired or replaced completely, without shutting off the entire system for this.
3. A thermal head is installed together with the valve. They are installed only in a one-pipe system. Otherwise, the heating devices will not work well.
4. To remove air from the pipes, you need to install a Mayevsky crane on each battery. The air is released at the very beginning of the heating season or already in the process.

Final system check

After carrying out work on the installation of heating batteries with your own hands, you must first test the system. Agree with those who drained the water so that after installation it is immediately fed into the pipes under high pressure. Keep in mind that the heating system will be completely filled with water only during the general start-up, therefore, if defects are detected during testing, they must be eliminated in time, without waiting for major problems.

Thinking about how to change heating radiators in an apartment with your own hands, sensibly assess your strengths and financial capabilities. Make a thoughtful plan of action in case something goes wrong during the repair. If you are not sure if you can handle it yourself, use the services of specialists.

Reading time ≈ 5 minutes

Replacing heating batteries yourself is not at all as difficult as it might seem. Proceed according to our step-by-step instructions with photos and videos, and you can refuse the services of the masters.

Preliminary work

Important! In order for the replacement of heating batteries with your own hands not to turn into an emergency, do not forget to turn off the water. Do this right before starting work. Otherwise, the thought of the need to turn off the water supply can "fly out" from the head.

Deliver the new heater from the packaging. Take your time to throw away the box. Cut it in half. Use one of the parts as a stand for the radiator (thanks to the backing, it will not be scratched or otherwise damaged). Another part can be placed between the wall and the old battery in order to protect the wallpaper.

Required tools

Before changing the heating batteries in the apartment, stock up on tools. You will need:

• Fitting press;
• Wrenches and level;
• Pipe bender and hammer drill with drills;
• Hammer and knife.

Step-by-step instructions for replacing the heating battery

If there is a three-way valve, unscrew it and make sure there is no water in the old radiator. To do this, unscrew the screw and remove the flag, or slightly loosen the stem. If water does not start to drip from the stem, unscrew the screw further. If there is liquid in the tap, you will hear characteristic sounds. If you see drops, tighten the screw back and find out why the water access has not been interrupted. If everything is in order, remove the top of the three-way valve.

If there are excess threads on the upper and lower riser pipes leading up and down from the radiator, respectively, you will need to cut them off. To do this, unscrew the first nut on the upper pipe, then do the same with the lower one. If a nut does not lend itself, clean the area with it from paint with a knife or metal brush.

In the place where the nut was removed, leave as many threads as you need in order for the replacement of the heating radiator to be successful. Note that there must be enough threads to tighten the fitting further. 7 threads are usually sufficient to install a 4-5 turns tee.

Remove the old battery from the mounts. Do it in a way convenient for you:

1. First, cut off the pipes, then unscrew the fasteners with a pipe wrench.
2. Unscrew the fasteners with a key, cut off the pipes.

Use a grinder to cut the pipe. The place of the cut is defined earlier (threads of the upper and lower pipes). Don't forget to leave 7 turns! Remove the old battery; you will no longer need it.

Remove old fasteners with a wrench or hammer. Connect the tee to the nipple. Screw the ball valve into the nipple (locking device in our design). Screw the press connection into the other branch. One branch of the tee is left for screwing into the pipe, part of which we just cut off. According to the scheme, make 2 such constructions.

Screw the resulting tee structures onto the threads of the upper and lower pipes. Pre-seal the pipe threads with thread. Tighten the tee fittings.

Cut a jumper section of the required size from the metal-plastic pipe. The segment will connect the free branches of the upper and lower tees. Calibrate the edges of the plastic pipe. Insert the pipe into the bends by bending it slightly. After installation, align it.

Take a press, press in a plastic pipe.

Take a set of liners that are sized for the pipe. For example, ½ inch. Screw the fins onto the new radiator. Tighten each thread with a thread. Screw the plugs on the battery using the hexagon. At the top of the radiator, use the Mayevsky tap.

Determine the middle of the battery, considering the number of sections.

Measure the window niche with a tape measure, determine its middle. Lean the appliance as follows: the middle of the radiator is in the middle of the niche. On the extreme places between the sections you will need to "put on" fasteners. Those. between the first and last sections between the rest of the sections. Make pencil marks on the wall, indicating the locations of the fasteners.

Move the battery to the side. Using a spirit level, mark the 4 fasteners vertically using the marks you just made.

It will be necessary to hang the battery, focusing on the window sill (if it is new) or by level (if the window sill is skewed).

Measure the distance from the sill to the center of the pipe. Suppose the distance will be 10 cm.In 2 areas where the markings for fasteners are made, outline 10 cm, adding another 1.5-2 cm.

Measure the center-to-center distance of the lintel-pipe. Make the appropriate marks on the 2 areas indicated above.

Use a punch to punch holes. Insert a bracket into each hole, making sure it fits completely. Re-deepen the holes if necessary.

Screw a bracket into each hole. Hang the radiator on the brackets. You just need to connect the upper and lower pipes of the risers and the battery. Bend two metal-plastic pipes, cut them to the required size, calibrate. Connect the structure by unscrewing the extreme branches of the tees and screwing the pipes into them. Crimp the connections. Tighten all nuts.