One of the common ways to finish the ceiling is to cover it with clapboard. Materials used for this include solid wood, MDF and plastic. In any case, the ceiling surface correct installation turns into a perfectly flat surface with a characteristic appearance. The location of the stripes can help ensure correct visual perception rooms. Any interested owner who is not afraid of work and is not averse to working can make a lining ceiling with their own hands construction tool. After reading the detailed instructions and purchasing everything necessary materials, you can begin to implement your plans.

In the usual sense, in order to cover the ceiling with clapboard, a frame is first formed. Its purpose is to separate the future finishing surface of the ceiling from the uneven and unattractive base, to bring out a single level plane and ensure the strength of the entire structure. It is on the frame that the lining and lighting fixtures will subsequently be held. The lining of the selected type is already sewn on top of the frame. Even when they say that they sew the lining directly onto the wall or ceiling, it seems like without a frame, a sheathing is still formed.

Strips of material (actually “lining”) are fixed across the frame guides. General direction stripes are selected in accordance with the requirements of the room design. Visually, the room will appear longer, precisely in the direction in which the lining is laid.

You can form a frame from. The same ones used to secure drywall. Besides classic version the use case remains wooden beam.

What exactly should you choose from these materials? It all depends on the material from which the lining is made and operating conditions. So for wet rooms like the bathroom or kitchen would be better suited metal frame and plastic lining for the ceiling. Wooden or MDF lining is allowed in the kitchen, again with a metal frame.

various types of wooden lining

In residential premises, wooden beams in combination with any material you like are perfect. On the positive side wooden frame The process of installing the lining becomes simpler. It is easier to nail small nails to wood, tighten screws and attach clips.

What will you need?

You will need the following set of tools, which should always be kept nearby when covering the ceiling with clapboard with your own hands:

1. Hammer;
2. Impact drill or hammer drill, screwdriver;
3. Construction corner, water level, bubble level or rule;
4. Tape measure, centimeter;
5. Hacksaw, metal scissors (for metal profile).

The material is naturally selected from the selected materials. So for a wooden frame it is best to use timber 20X40, 40X40, 50X50 mm. The entire structure will be made up of the selected timber and its derivatives. To fasten the beams and attach them to the ceiling and walls, plastic dowels are used together with nails-screws (8X45) or anchors, and hardened wood screws (4X50, 4X75).

For metal frame the list of purchases will already increase, at least in the number of components:

• UD profile for perimeter formation;
• CD profile as the basis of the frame;
• U-shaped fastenings and cross fastenings “crab”;
• Flea-tapping screws with a drill tip, metal screws with a piercing head.

The instructions below will help you find out how much material you need to purchase, after reading which you will be able to calculate the quantity based on your needs.

To fasten the lining to the ceiling, or rather to the frame, staples of a construction stapler, self-tapping screws with a press washer, nails, special clips are used, the latter mainly for plastic lining, also called PVC panels. Nails can only be used in combination with a wooden frame.

Frame installation

Even before starting the main work, the lowest point on the ceiling is selected and a measurement is made from it 6-10 cm down the wall, where the first mark is made. Next, the mark is transferred to all four walls using a water level. In the best case, a laser level is used. As a result, a line will be obtained along the perimeter of the room, along which the installation of the frame will be verified.

Important: If wooden beams and boards are used in construction or renovation, they must also be treated with a fire retardant to protect them from rot, pests and increase fire safety.

Option 1: frame based on wooden beams

The beams must be fixed to the ceiling in a direction perpendicular to how the lining will be sheathed. The distance between the bars is selected in the range of 40-60 cm for plastic and 60-100 cm for wood. The beams must be mounted so that their lower edge is strictly parallel to the floor and at the same level as all other beams. You can check this using a water level.

So, at the beginning, two beams are fixed on opposite sides of the room at a distance of approximately 10-15 cm from the wall. Be sure to check the level not only at the edges of the beam, but also in the middle. For every 60 cm it is necessary to attach a beam to the ceiling. Impact screws and dowels or anchors are used for this. If the beam is distant from the ceiling, wooden plates made from the remnants of the same beam are placed.

A rope or fishing line is stretched between the installed beams along their lower edge. Using the line on the wall and the stretched line as a guide, the remaining beams are installed. Once everything is ready, you can start strengthening.

For reliability, you can install jumpers between the main beams. So, from the same timber, pieces are cut with a length equal to the distance between the installed beams and attached to them in the middle of the ceiling. However, it is enough to install jumpers only in those places where an increased load on the frame is implied, that is, places where lamps are installed. At this point the frame is considered ready.

Option 2: frame based on a metal profile

The rules for constructing the frame are the same as for and. Along the perimeter of the walls, according to the drawn line of the suspended ceiling level, a UD profile is attached using dowels. Next, the first two outer CD profiles are attached at a distance of 10-15 cm from the wall, also perpendicular to the direction of the lining. Along the length of the profile, it should be secured with U-shaped fastenings to the ceiling, with a frequency of every 40-60 cm. Using a stretched rope or fishing line, the remaining profiles are installed and secured along the ceiling at a distance the same as when using timber. Jumpers in places where reinforcement of the frame is required are mounted using crab crosses.

Before installing the lining, wiring for the lighting system is also laid. Loops or wire leads are left in the right places. After covering with clapboard, they can be pulled out through the prepared holes and.

Cladding

If the lining is made of wood or MDF

The lining made of solid wood and MDF is mounted identically. To do this, strips of material are cut to a length equal to the distance between the walls minus 5 mm. A slightly smaller size is necessary to form a gap; this will protect the ceiling from the effects of thermal expansion. If you are not sure that the walls are perfectly parallel, it is better to cut a strip of lining for a specific installation location.

The installation of the lining on the ceiling begins with the first strip, which is fixed on both sides along the entire length, that is, to each guide. This leaves a gap of 3-5 mm to the wall. Subsequent stripes are inserted under small angle groove into the lock of the previous strip, and slides tightly into it. For reliability, you can use rubber hammer, which should be lightly tapped on the end of the strip. The second side is nailed or screwed to the frame guides behind the lower edge of the lock. As mentioned above, either self-tapping screws with a press washer or nails are used for this.

Advice: When using self-tapping screws, it is advisable to pre-drill holes in the places where they are installed on the strips, otherwise the material may chip. When using nails, use a hammer to avoid damaging the front part of the lining with a hammer blow.

In the process of assembling the ceiling, it is important to take care in advance of the output of the supply wires in the required places and make the corresponding holes on the lining strips. After the ceiling is completely installed, it will be almost impossible to do this without the risk of damaging the front side.

Continue installing stripes to the opposite end of the room. The last strip is best driven into the lock using small wedges that are driven between the strip and the wall. Most likely, you will have to cut the strip along its entire length, because the whole strip will not fit. MDF lining, just like plastic, is easier to cut with a knife. Incisions are made along the entire length on both sides, after which the strip is carefully broken. Strips of solid wood will have to be cut using either a hacksaw or a jigsaw. There is no need to additionally glue ceilings made of wooden lining; securing all the strips to each of the guides will result in a strong and durable structure. Moreover, the glued lining will begin to creak and crack over time.

Video: finishing the ceiling in an apartment with wooden paneling

If the lining is made of plastic

Plastic lining, or PVC panels, are laid in the same way as wooden lining, and with the same gaps on all sides to compensate for thermal expansion of 3-5 mm. However, before installing the first strip, a U-shaped groove should be secured around the perimeter of the new ceiling, in which the extreme ends of all strips will be hidden. Often this groove is an integral part of the plinth or represents collapsible design from L-shaped parts. One of them is fixed before covering with clapboard, and the second is snapped in after. It all depends on which option will be purchased.

Since a single ceiling level is already determined by the frame, when covering with clapboard you just need to carefully ensure that each strip fits tightly to the guides and does not move away at the joints.

Final stage

At the stage of securing the entire lining, the work is not yet over. It is also necessary to secure around the perimeter of the new ceiling or a corner that will close the gap between the lining and the walls. You can secure the plinth using liquid nails, clips or screws. Only after this can you consider that finishing the ceiling with clapboard is complete and enjoy the new look of the room. The lining itself does not require any additional finishing works. Only if the simplest version of the cladding made from untreated profiled boards is used, will it be necessary to open it with varnish. However, it is better to complete this process in advance, even before installing the ceiling.

The abundance of various building materials on the market allows owners of apartments and houses to carry out ceiling repairs in accordance with modern trends and fashion. Stretch and suspended ceiling structures have become very common nowadays. However, for lovers of rustic style and natural materials, ordinary wooden lining looks more attractive. In this article we will tell you how to properly sheathe a ceiling with clapboard, choose suitable materials and assemble the sheathing. All those who decide to equip the ceiling with wooden lining should be prepared for the fact that this process will require a large investment of labor, time and patience.

Selecting lining for the ceiling

More recently, when it came to ceiling lining, it was wooden figured strips that were meant. However, currently construction market offers several types of lining. Based on the intended purpose of the room, material capabilities and buyer preferences, you can choose one or another material.

The material for making lining can be:

• wood;
• polyvinyl chloride;
• MDF boards.

It is worth going into more detail on each of the materials.

Wooden lining

When finishing the ceiling with wooden paneling, the natural rustic style of the room is preserved. Wood lining is used in premises for any purpose and is absolutely safe for human health. The price for this varies depending on the type of wood. construction material. Most often, lining is made from alder, cedar, fir, oak, aspen, larch and other types of wood.

Pine has antiseptic properties because it is rich in resins. These substances cause mold to form on the surface of the lining. In addition, pine itself is considered a fairly smooth tree, with a small number of knots, which makes it ideal for creating lining.

Lining from coniferous varieties wood is considered almost universal, unlike hardwood, which is used primarily indoors. However, any wood is susceptible to moisture, so it must be impregnated with special products and provide air access to ventilate it.

Depending on the quality of the wood, there are 4 types of lining:

1. Top class (extra). This board looks perfect in appearance, there are no chips, dents or cracks on it. The price of such material is very high, since it is made by splicing. At high humidity, this material begins to crack, so this lining is not used in damp rooms.
2. Class A. Small knots are allowed, but there are no other defects on such material. As a rule, it is this category of lining that most consumers choose.
3. Class B. There may be small defects on the surface of the board. Although such lining is usually not used in residential premises, it is best suited for cladding balconies and country houses.
4. Class C. This is the lowest grade material, which has a large number of knots and defects.

Characteristics of MDF lining

In appearance, the ceiling made of MDF paneling resembles wood laminate, although this material is essentially a slab of pressed sawdust. This material is very sensitive to moisture. At the slightest contact with water, it begins to swell, losing its appearance and original quality.

It is worth noting that MDF paneling is used more often for walls than for ceilings. It allows you to organize various decorative elements and diversify the interior. In addition, the material has high thermal and noise insulation qualities.

If desired, you can combine MDF lining with different colors and textures. Installation of such material is not difficult.

Features of polyvinyl chloride lining

Covering the ceiling with PVC lining is an excellent option, since the material is very easy to handle and easy to install. However, it is worth remembering that PVC planks are fragile and very easy to damage.

There are two types of PVC lining:

• with seams;
• seamless.

Seamless lining allows you to create an almost seamless, smooth surface on which the seams between the individual planks will be almost invisible. If you want to create a surface reminiscent of eurolining, you should use panels with seams.

One of the main advantages of polyvinyl chloride panels is that they are resistant to wet environments. However, you should avoid exposing such a ceiling to direct sunlight, since under ultraviolet radiation the lining will begin to lose its original color.

Thus, optimal options For finishing the ceiling, the clapboard will be plastic (PVC) panels, as well as wooden planks.

Material calculation

Before sheathing the ceiling with clapboard wooden house, it is worth taking care of the purchase sufficient quantity material so that during the work there is no need to take breaks for additional purchases. The standard dimensions of one lining board are 15 cm wide, 600 cm long and 1.2-2.5 cm thick. These are the requirements of GOST 8242-88.

For interior decoration panels with a thickness of less than 1.6 cm are used for indoors, and for external panels - from 1.8 cm or more. To determine the number of boards for finishing the ceiling with eurolining, you need to calculate the area of ​​1 plank and compare it with the total area of ​​the surface to be sheathed. Thus, if we took a panel 9.5 cm wide and 6 m long, its total area will be 0.57 m 2.

Let's assume that the total ceiling area in the room is 9 m2. Then for work you will need 9÷0.57=17.3≈18 boards. This is the minimum number of panels, since during the cladding process the width of the canvas will be reduced due to the peculiarities of the installation of the lining. It is fastened with a comb into the groove.

Material quality control

After you have decided on the type, color, and quantity of the lining and delivered it to the work site, you need to check its quality. On horizontal flat surface You should lay out all the panels and check how well they correspond to the declared characteristics. Sometimes unscrupulous sellers place defective samples inside the packaging to avoid losses due to their rejection. Of course, it is advisable to pay attention to this during the shopping process in the store.

The next step if you plan to work with wood paneling is to dry it. PVC and MDF panels do not require this manipulation. To prevent the wooden lining mounted on the ceiling from becoming deformed, it must be thoroughly dried on a horizontal surface. The minimum drying period is 2 weeks, but a longer interval is allowed. If you do not want the wooden ceiling lining to soon lose its presentable appearance, drying cannot be neglected.

Preparation of tools and materials

To install the lining on the ceiling as quickly as possible, it is worth preparing in advance all the tools that may be needed during the work process:

• hammer drill with a drill, cross-section from 6-7 mm (if you have to work with concrete ceiling), or an impact drill;
• screwdriver;
• electric jigsaw or hacksaw (tools are suitable for any type of lining);
• level;
• roulette.

In order to cover the ceiling with clapboard, you will need to purchase a number of auxiliary materials.

Since the lining is attached to the frame, that is, the sheathing, you need to select the type of material for it:

1. Wooden slats - they are best suited for fixing any type of lining, since working with them is easier and more convenient, and their cost is much lower than metal profiles.
2. Metal lathing made of steel profiles. It is usually used for fastening plasterboard sheets.

It is worth noting that for work in rooms with high humidity it is recommended to choose a steel version of the lathing and PVC lining, since they do not deform when exposed to moisture, unlike wood.

For a wooden frame you will need:

• strip 4x4 cm based on surface area;
• wooden or plastic wedges for the frame;
• brackets;
• self-tapping screws

For metal sheathing you need to purchase:

• steel profiles;
• fasteners;
• pendant;
• self-tapping screws;
• anchors.

You can begin installing the lining on the ceiling after purchasing materials and thoroughly drying the wood.

Preliminary work with the ceiling

It is very important before making a lining ceiling to prepare it correctly. First, you need to remove a layer from the ceiling surface old plaster and clean the surface from dirt so that it is as smooth as possible.

Next, we proceed to marking the ceiling for the frame. In this case, it is worth deciding on the direction of the lining strips. In the process of further laying the lining on the ceiling, it is advisable to place it so that there are as few end joints as possible.

Because the wooden elements exposed not only to moisture, but also to mold, they must be coated with an antiseptic before installation.

In private houses, the ceiling should be pre-insulated. A layer of thermal insulation is laid between the profile posts, mounted with an indentation of 50-60 cm. If we're talking about about the apartment, then additional thermal insulation is not needed.

Next, we find a level for attaching the sheathing. Having decided on the direction of the slats, we mark the ceiling. Please note that the lining is fixed perpendicular to the sheathing beams. If desired, it can be placed at right angles to the walls or diagonally.

Retaining brackets are fixed to the ceiling with equal intervals between them. Then they are laid on the brackets wooden slats, leveling them using small wedges.

In order for eurolining ceilings to be beautiful, the lathing must be installed very carefully and perfectly level.

The maximum step between fasteners is 50 cm. If eurolining is used, then the step must be halved.

How carefully you pay attention to preliminary preparation the ceiling depends on its final appearance and durability.

Fastening the lining

Installing lining on the ceiling with your own hands is not something too difficult; even inexperienced performers can do it. True, it is advisable to work with the paneling together to make it easier to fasten long panels.

We begin to attach the lining to the ceiling with our own hands, perpendicular to the sheathing from the wall. The first board is tightly fixed to the wall with a tenon. Using a level, adjust the position of the board and then secure it. To lay the lining, you can use both small nails and clamps. In those rooms where the design of the lining ceiling should be ideal, clamps are used, and in other rooms, ordinary nails are also suitable.

Then we take the next board and insert it with a tenon into the groove of the previous one. At the points of contact between the panel and the sheathing, we firmly fix the board. We fix all other lining panels onto the battens in the same way.

On the opposite wall, the last strip of lining may need to be trimmed. In this regard, it is advisable to place it in a place where it will be least noticeable. When working with plastic panels it's better to take advantage hand hacksaw, and wooden lining and MDF panels are easier to cut with a jigsaw.

It is better to make any holes for wiring or mounting lighting fixtures immediately at the time of fixing the lining, so as not to damage it.

If you use nails to cover the ceiling with clapboard yourself, then you must first cut off their heads. At the end of the work, the nail holes are opened with wax.

The final stage of arranging a lining ceiling will be attaching the baseboards around the perimeter of the room. These decorative elements will add completeness to the ceiling and hide the gaps along the edges. Typically, wooden lining is opened with varnish, and baseboards with a darker stain and varnish. If desired, this ceiling can be painted.

Here are a few useful tips which may be useful to you:

1. Before covering the ceiling with eurolining, it is advisable to check how good the electrical wiring and other communications running under the ceiling are. If in the future you have to dismantle the lining for repairs, it can be damaged.
2. The ceiling lining in places of contact with electrical wires must be insulated to prevent fire.
3. When working with wooden panels, it is advisable to use fasteners that will not rust. For PVC panels, the type of fastening is not important.
4. Ceiling covering should be done in a dry room at a temperature not lower than 10 ℃.

The cost of a lining ceiling

The final cost of ceiling repair will largely depend on the price of materials. In turn, the price of lining varies depending on the type and species of wood, the length of the board, as well as production technology.

Depending on these factors, lining is divided into several categories by price:

1. The most expensive is considered to be lining made of soft hardwood. Their processing is carried out in accordance with European standards.
2. Hardwood lining falls into the middle price category.
3. Wood paneling coniferous species is the cheapest.

Also, if you want to equip two-level ceiling from the lining, you may have to invite a specialist, for whose services you also need to pay.

How to care for the ceiling

If we are talking about lining made of wood, it must be treated with antiseptic impregnations and primers that slow down the destruction of wood and prevent the development of fungus and rotting. When choosing a specific product, pay attention to its color, which should match the desired result.

As an option, wooden panels You can coat it with a special oil, apply varnish or paint of your choice. The processing option depends only on the wishes of the owner.

In order for the ceiling to retain its presentable appearance longer, it is advisable to periodically wipe off dust from it. If just a damp cloth is not enough for cleaning, you can use special household products, which in large quantities sold in supermarkets.

Lining is considered one of the most the best materials for interior decoration of housing, since it is made from natural raw materials and serves not only as a decoration for the premises, but also acts as an excellent means for noise and heat insulation. Installation of the lining is simple, and a huge selection of textures and colors allows it to be used to decorate any design. Special attention clapboard ceilings deserve - they give the room stylish look and fill it with an atmosphere of home comfort and warmth.

Peculiarities

The lining is a board that has a special groove on one side and a protrusion on the other. Thanks to this design, when assembled, the parts form a solid coating, which is reliable in operation and does not deform under the influence of temperature. Typically, lining is made from various types of wood, but panels made of plastic and metal can also be found.

The ceiling in an apartment is usually sheathed with boards made of coniferous wood - they are characterized by a beautiful texture and patterns, withstand mechanical loads and give the room a pleasant aroma.

The lining ceiling can be installed as a single-tier or decorated complex designs, consisting of several levels. Difference between models suspension systems consists only of assembling the frame. Finishing the ceiling with clapboard has many advantages, which include:

• Beautiful decor. Similar view design is always in fashion and can be used for any style.
• Ease of installation work. Suspended structures do not require additional processing– it is enough to cover them with stain or varnish.
• Masking of surface defects. Facing panels can not only brighten up unevenness, but also allow you to hide communication systems and wiring that are necessary when installing lamps.
• Excellent thermal conductivity and sound insulation.
• Possibility of combination with others decorative materials . Thanks to original combination wood with metal and glass can achieve a stunning design effect.
• Environmental friendliness. Wood is a natural raw material and therefore completely safe for human health. In addition, board structures are able to maintain a certain microclimate in the rooms.

Despite the presence positive properties, lining ceilings also have their disadvantages, namely:

• Reducing the height of the room. Regardless of whether it is a simple or multi-tiered system, when installing it, it will not be possible to maintain the height of the room. Therefore, such ceilings are recommended to be placed in spacious rooms.
• Absence fire safety . Unlike finishing the ceiling with plasterboard, wooden structures can quickly catch fire, so it is advisable to cover them with special mixtures that will not only extend the life of the coating, but also protect it from a possible fire.
• Low level of moisture resistance. In rooms with high humidity, it is best not to install lining ceilings, since under the influence of condensation and evaporation, the panels may change in size and undergo deformation. For such premises, it is advisable to choose plastic lining. If the design provides wooden plank, then it will have to be coated with a protective varnish.
• Instability to mold and mildew. This only applies to wooden lining.

Types of lining

Today, linings made of natural wood, plastic and fiberboard are produced for cladding ceilings. At the same time, it is extremely popular in modern design solid wood material is used, as it is made from various types of wood. As a rule, boards made of pine and linden are chosen for finishing ceilings in residential premises - pine panels are well suited for the interior of private houses and cottages, and linden options can be used for cladding surfaces in apartments.

In addition, wooden lining differs in size, class of wood, pattern and fastening system. The wide board has the appearance of eurolining, and it looks beautiful on ceilings with beams.

Plastic panels come in two types: seamless and with a separated seam. Moreover, after installation, the latter outwardly resemble a wooden covering and are characterized by high aesthetics and affordable price, so they can be used if the house is budget renovation or you need to decorate ceilings in rooms with high humidity. Unlike natural material plastic lining is practical and presented in wide choice colors and textures. It is produced not only with imitation wood, but also decorative stone.

Seamless plastic panels have a special tongue-and-groove system in their design, so after their installation the seams are almost invisible. The width of this material is quite large, so it is used for finishing spacious rooms.

Fiberboard lining has also proven itself well. It is made from wood fiber by pressing. Such boards have standard sizes and shapes, but their designs are limitless. The outer layer of the panels is decorated with original drawings and patterns and covered with paint of various colors.

It is not advisable to use the material for decorating ceilings in damp rooms. Therefore, if you need to install suspended ceiling in the bathroom or kitchen, then aluminum or metal lining is recommended for this.

Design

There are many models of lining on the modern market, thanks to which you can make any design idea. It is considered a wonderful decoration for a room. white ceiling made of timber, as it will not only visually expand the boundaries of space, but also make the room bright and fill it with a special atmosphere of comfort. If desired suspended structure You can add colored areas or make inserts from dark boards.

Glossy lining also looks chic in rooms - unlike matte panels, it is practical to use, does not get dirty, and after cleaning there are no streaks left on its surface.

In the classic style, wooden boards are chosen for cladding ceilings - their natural pattern and color add beauty to the interior and go well with other decorative items. Mirror lining is also considered an interesting design option. Its seamless wide panels are well suited for finishing ceilings in bedrooms, bathrooms and living rooms.

In order to create an unusual room design when installing lining ceilings, it is recommended to combine materials of different textures and shades. You can also additionally apply patterns on the panels that would follow the lines of furniture and flooring.

At the same time, do not forget that wood paneling requires correct selection color scheme - there should be complete harmony in the interior, the ceiling should not protrude separate part design. Therefore, it is worth paying great attention to its shape, number of levels and complexity of design. For example, massive dark-colored structures will reduce the space and make it gloomy, while light panel inserts, on the contrary, will expand the boundaries.

To further highlight the beauty of wood, suspended ceilings should have good system lighting in the form of stylish chandeliers.

Scope of application

IN Lately used for interior decoration various materials, but the greatest demand among them is lining. The surfaces sheathed with it are highly durable, versatile and environmentally friendly. Ceilings made of lining can be installed in both brick and wooden houses; such structures also look interesting in apartments. Panels with imitation logs or timber can easily decorate any interior; they are especially often used for cladding the attic.

Wood goes well with stonework. The stone itself is a cold material, but if you add it with clapboard, the room will be transformed and become cozy.

For example, in a bedroom or living room one of the walls can be tiled decorative stone and install a clapboard ceiling. In the end it will work out chic design. Such panels will fit perfectly into the interior of hallways, kitchens and children's rooms. In addition, ceilings on balconies and loggias are often covered with clapboard.

How to sheathe it yourself?

The process of installing a suspended ceiling made of lining is simple, so its installation can be done independently, without the help of craftsmen. Finishing is carried out in two stages: first, the supporting frame is prepared, then the cladding is done with boards.

The frame is attached as follows:

• The direction of fastening the lining is determined. If it is longitudinal, then the frame sheathing is fixed transversely; if it is transverse, vice versa. In addition, before installation, you need to set the level of the future ceiling and draw markings along which the filing will take place. The frame must be mounted 5-10 cm lower from the main ceiling. To do this correctly, it is recommended to use a laser or hydraulic level.
• After all the markings, you need to secure an aluminum guide profile around the perimeter of the room. You can join the parts using self-tapping screws and dowels. In this case, the profile must correspond to the dimensions of the structure, so it is cut and positioned along the length and width of the frame. To increase the strength of the frame, it is additionally reinforced with suspensions, observing a step of 60 cm.

• The next step In the installation of the ceiling is the laying of lining. First, you need to nail the slats to the frame, adjusting them to the size of the walls, then you can put decorative boards. At the end of the work, all joint gaps will be covered with strips, and the joints with the walls will be covered with plinths. When installing plastic lining, on the contrary, the baseboards are fixed first, and only then the panels are laid.
• The staples should be driven into the inner wall of the groove. Wooden lining is fastened with small nails, MDF panels are fastened with nails with a large head, and plastic boards are fixed to the frame using self-tapping screws and a stapler.

To learn how to attach the lining to the ceiling, see the following video.

The lining ceiling looks beautiful and original in modern interior, but so that it not only pleases with its aesthetics, but also serves reliably long term, you need to know how to attach it correctly. If installation work are carried out independently, then the following recommendations from specialists can help novice masters with this:

• Since wood is considered a “capricious” material, before use it should be kept for several days in the room where the ceiling is planned to be installed. Thanks to this, the lining will “get used” to the new conditions of temperature and humidity, take on the desired shape and be easy to install. The boards must be stacked.
• If, when purchasing the material in the package, you find several crooked planks, then there is no need to be upset - they can be used in covering those places where pieces of material are needed.
• The lining should be secured with nails with a small head. At the same time, to cover the ceilings in bathrooms and verandas, the nails need to be covered with a protective mixture, otherwise under the influence of humidity they will rust, and stains will appear on the white lining that will be difficult to wipe off.

Burrs and chips around the screws can be prevented if you pre-drill holes for the screws before attaching them to the board.

• In rooms where there is unstable humidity, it is recommended to purchase yellow self-tapping screws.
• When attaching the edges of the board, it is necessary to use a center punch - it will protect the surface of the lining from mechanical damage.
• You need to lay skirting boards around the perimeter of the installed ceiling, as they will help hide the joints between the structure and the walls.
• It is advisable to sheathe the ceiling with boards from the corners to the center.
• The last panel of the structure is adjusted in width and placed in the least visible place.
• If, while attaching the lining, the self-tapping screw on its edge splits the wood, and a small crack forms, then the self-tapping screw can be slightly unscrewed back and a small nail can be driven in nearby at an angle - this way the two halves of the board will be pulled together, and the defect will be invisible.

Beautiful examples in the interior

It is impossible to imagine a modern home interior without clapboard decoration. Especially it concerns hanging structures, which have the appearance of a slatted covering and fit perfectly into the design of apartments and country houses. These look beautiful wood planking in living rooms - a ceiling decorated in this way fills the room with comfort and homely warmth.

In order for the design to be harmoniously combined with other types of decoration and decorative items, outer part panels need to be detonated with varnish - a stunning effect will be obtained, and the natural patterns of the wood will be favorably emphasized in the general plan.

If the size of the living room allows, then you can also create a ceiling that will look like beam floor. As a rule, this design idea is used when decorating rooms in the Alpine style.

At the same time, it is not necessary to choose natural colors for the cladding; contrasting shades will also look interesting in the interior. It all depends on what colors predominate in the room.

An excellent solution would be to install such a ceiling in the bedroom. White or beige slats will create a good atmosphere in the room, which will be most conducive to relaxation. Typically, lining structures are chosen for the Provence style. To achieve an interesting design effect, you can lay out panels of several colors. In this case, the lining ceiling in the bedroom can become a continuation of the wall cladding.

Nowadays, lining is used for interior and exterior work. Of particular interest is the application of this finishing material for creating interior design country houses and city apartments. Let's find out how to cover a ceiling with clapboard so that the end result brings joy and satisfaction to the property owner.

Types of lining

Among the numerous materials used for its manufacture, the following are of interest:

• natural wood;
• plastic

Plastic samples are made in the form of long and narrow slats, supplemented with special docking grooves, this is convenient for fastening. Among positive characteristics plastic material we highlight:

1. Ease of fastening during the finishing process (convenience of working with the material).
2. Ceiling lining hides all defects on the surface of the ceiling.
3. No corrosion or rotting.
4. Aesthetic appearance.

This material guarantees additional sound insulation, high-quality insulation, and is ideal for exterior and interior decoration.

But the ceiling made of wooden lining suggests special care, special processing. Installation of such a covering will be much more expensive than its plastic counterpart. Wood has excellent thermal insulation characteristics, so when correct processing the ceiling will fit harmoniously into general interior premises. The finished wooden covering will be environmentally friendly; such a ceiling can also be made in children's rooms.

Algorithm of actions

Preparatory stage

First you need to prepare the tools, without which you cannot make a lining ceiling with your own hands. When installing this material you will need:

• wood hacksaw;
• electric drill;
• level;
• rule;
• rubber hammer;
• construction corner;
• roulette

Attention! The material for covering the ceiling surface is taken with a margin of 15-20 percent. Calculation of the amount of material required to cover the surface must be performed taking into account:

• the length of the area to be closed, the width of the slats. If the length is larger size slats, you will have to “finish” the ceiling over the entire surface, otherwise the external impression will be spoiled.
• Keep in mind that the slats are joined together, that is, 2-3 cm are lost during installation.
• Most likely you will have to trim the outer rail electric jigsaw to drive it into the groove. It's better to leave 2-3 wooden clapboards so that if one of them is damaged, a new strip can be cut.

The algorithm for attaching the lining to the ceiling involves preparing a wooden frame made of timber, the thickness of which will be at least 20 mm. The cross-section option is selected taking into account the thickness of the insulation.

Installation of ceiling covering

Work begins with attaching a wooden frame, which will become the basis of the entire wooden structure. It is on this that the ceiling is then lined with clapboard. First you need to calculate exactly where the first typesetting strip should be located. If the wall is uneven, the strip is attached loosely, but with a small margin (5-6 mm), then it can be hidden under the ceiling plinth. To cover the ceiling with clapboard with your own hands, you need to adjust the width of the last strip and also leave a 5-6 mm gap.

Nuances of frame installation

The wooden frame is optimally made from timber 40 by 40, 20 by 40, or 50 by 50 mm. Fastening the beams, as well as their fixation to the ceiling, walls, is carried out with plastic dowels and nails - screws (size 8 by 45 mm), or anchors and hardened screws (4 by 75 mm, for wood). When choosing a metal frame you will additionally need:

• UD profile for perimeter formation;
• U-shaped fastening options, as well as cross “crab” fasteners;
• screws for metal, “fleas” with tips in the form of a drill;
• CD profile for frame

The amount of material required for the work is calculated after a detailed study of the instructions. To nail the lining to the ceiling, you will need construction stapler, nails, self-tapping screws with press washers.

When creating a wooden frame, pay attention to the following points:

1. When adjusting the slats, leave a 4-5 mm gap on both sides along the entire length to prevent deformation of the material during expansion.
2. Do not try to immediately cut wooden slats across the entire ceiling surface. The length adjustment is individual, and therefore each new workpiece must be cut immediately before fastening. This will save materials, but you will have to spend more time on fitting.
3. There is no need to fix the workpiece with nails; just insert it into the lock of the previous plank.

If there are any difficulties with insertion into the lock (grooves), you will need a rubber hammer. With its help, you can tamp down the attachment point and adjust the rail. Next, the workpieces are fastened with self-tapping screws on all frame guides; it is better to fasten them in the area of ​​the lock edge.

Base mounting options

Before you begin arranging the ceiling, you need to find the lowest possible area on the ceiling surface. From it they retreat down the wall approximately 6-10 cm, obtaining the initial mark. In the same way, place marks on all four walls, armed with a water (or laser) level. A line is drawn along the perimeter of the entire room, which will correspond to the location of the base.

Advice! If you choose only wooden blocks or boards for the base, be sure to pre-coat them with an antiseptic to protect them from rotting and increase fire safety.

1 way. Creating a frame on wooden blocks. The bars are attached perpendicular to the direction of installation of the lining. There should be a distance of at least 60-100 cm between the bars. Installation is carried out so that the location of the lowest edge is strictly parallel to the floor. You will need a level to check. First, the bars are attached at opposite ends of the room, retreating from the ceiling surface by 10-15 cm. Then, after 60 cm, the bars need to be attached along the entire perimeter of the room, using anchors, dowels, or impact screws. If the block moves away from the ceiling surface, dies made from bars are placed inside. The fishing line is pulled between the beams and a guideline is obtained for installing the remaining beams. To increase the strength of the frame, jumpers are made.

Method 2. Creating a base for lining from a metal profile. The algorithm of actions is similar to covering the ceiling surface with plasterboard. First, a line is drawn throughout the room (along all four walls) that will correspond to the suspended ceiling. Next, the UD profile is fixed with dowels. Then the last two metal CD profiles are attached, and the distance to the wall is taken to be 10-15 cm, and the direction of attachment is at an angle of 90 degrees to the lining of the lining.

The profile along its entire length is attached to the surface with special fasteners, the fixation frequency is 40-60 cm. A rope is pulled, but the rest of the profiles are not installed, they are fixed. If necessary, to strengthen the base, crosses are installed using “crabs”. Before fixing the lining, it is attached electrical wiring for installation pendant lamps, places are specially left for release electric wire. As soon as the ceiling is sheathed, the wire can be brought out through the holes left, and the lamps are attached to it.

Fastening the lining

Let's find out how to attach the lining to the ceiling. Finishing Do-it-yourself clapboard ceiling involves fastening the strips perpendicular to the guides of the finished frame. The selection of directions is carried out taking into account the design features of the room. If the plans include a visual expansion of the space, the slats are fastened along the length. When decorating the ceiling surface in a wide room, transverse fastening of the lining is allowed; the room will appear smaller. Even when stripping the lining directly onto the surface, lathing is required. A base made of specialized metal profiles designed for fixing plasterboard sheets significantly reduces total weight ceiling structure. For kitchen premises, hallways, it is advisable to use a metal base for the lining.

Let's talk about how to install lining on the ceiling with your own hands. As soon as the frame is ready, the MDF blank is cut in strips along the entire length, corresponding to the length between the opposite walls minus the gap size - 5 cm. To maintain the parallelism of the slats, it is better to install each board separately, checking the location with a level.

Do-it-yourself video covering the ceiling with clapboard demonstrates the procedure. The first rail is fixed along its length, then attached alternately to the base guides. The distance from the first rail to the wall is assumed to be 3-5 mm. The rest of the workpieces must first be placed at an acute angle with a groove into the fixed strip, then pushed tightly until the “lock” snaps into place. To ensure high-quality fixation, gently tap the end of the inserted strip with a rubber mallet. The second side of the lining is screwed by the lower edge of the lock to the guides of the frame itself, using nails or self-tapping screws with press washers.

Before attaching the screws, it is better to drill small holes on the strips, in this case the board will not chip. For more information on how to attach the lining to the ceiling, you can watch the video. In order to get patterns from lining on the ceiling, you can use materials from different wood. The end board is inserted into the lock using small wooden wedges; they need to be driven between the base of the wall, the wall and the lath. The remaining gap will then be hidden under decorative plinth. To understand all the nuances of how to line a ceiling with clapboard, you can watch a video offered by professionals.

Today, such a finishing method as covering the ceiling with clapboard has become widespread. With the help of aesthetic, decorative and beautiful material It will be easy to transform the space and refresh the room.

What is a lining

Lining for ceiling cladding is represented by thin planks with a special type of connection, when the protrusion of another element is inserted into the groove of one plank.

The variety of types and quality of the material makes it suitable for installation in rooms with different operating conditions, and you can easily cover the ceiling with clapboard with your own hands. Panels are made from:

• solid wood species;
• MDF boards;
• plastic.

For example, for a bathroom or kitchen it is preferable to install plastic that is resistant to moisture, is not afraid of fungus, and is easy to wash. Wooden slabs or MDF is better used in living rooms.

Types of construction lining

Wooden lining - natural material(from hardwood or softwood), the main quality criteria of which are:

• strength;
• hardness;
• classism;
• fire resistance.

Wooden slats are divided into several classes:

• extra class or premium. Such boards are characterized by ideal smoothness and the absence of any defects. When finishing ceilings with premium eurolining, you will not have to adjust the parts to each other;
• class A. Possible availability minor defects:

— slight roughness in some areas;

— small inclusions of resin on the surface;

- small non-through cracks;

• B-class. This type is characterized by the presence of a significant number of defects. The end parts may have small chips. It is better to sheathe rooms with these panels country house, balcony or loggia;
• Class C- the lowest-grade and cheapest category of material. In this case, only rotten boards are prohibited. Ceiling cladding with class C clapboard is recommended for basements, attics or utility rooms.

Its advantages include:

• no need to carefully prepare the ceiling space for finishing;
• ease of installation will allow you to hem the ceilings with MDF panels yourself;
• ease of care;
• the variety of options for MDF slats allows you to choose suitable color or texture that will organically fit into the overall design and style of the room.

MDF lining is produced using the method of pressing wood fiber and then giving the material the desired size and shape.

Disadvantages include low performance characteristics, since over time the surface of such panels begins to crack and acquires a dark tint.

This is no less popular material than natural wood or particle boards. The production of this type of lamella is based on the extrusion method, in which a viscous polyvinyl chloride mass is squeezed out through special holes.

• from wooden beams. To do this, two beams are fixed on opposite sides of the room, 10-15 cm away from the wall surface. They are fixed with nails or self-tapping screws every 60 cm.

Important! The timber must be fastened perpendicular to the location of the lamellas.

The distance between the beams is 60-100 cm if the lining is made of wood, and 40-60 cm when it is planned to install plastic panels.

The bottom edges of each beam should be parallel to the floor and at the same level as the other beams. By stretching a nylon thread along the underside of the transverse strips, the remaining beams are secured. To strengthen the structure, lintels made of timber of the same dimensions are installed;

• from a metal profile. If such a frame is installed, then first horizontal line attach the UD profile to the dowels. The CD profile is fixed on opposite sides at a distance of 10-15 cm from the wall surface in increments of 60 cm. In this case, the CD profiles will be located perpendicular to the UD profile strips and the lining. The profile is fixed to the ceiling using U-shaped hangers with a distance of 40-60 cm.

Upon completion of the installation of the frame, wires are connected to the locations of the lighting fixtures using any of the methods.

Installation of lining

The first panel is fixed, pressed tightly against the wall. Next, the ridge of the next lamella is inserted into the groove of the previous one and secured with fasteners at the points of contact of the lining with the frame.

On a note! Holes for lamps are cut during the process of covering the ceiling with clapboard. Otherwise, damage may remain on it that is difficult to disguise.

Final stage

After the lining ceilings have been made, it is necessary to adjust the lamellas to length and file the corner joints. Gaps at the junction of walls and ceilings are masked with baseboards. Decorative plugs should match the color of the room's interior, so it is recommended to buy them together with the panels.

This finishing method is often used in the Provence style. Emphasizing its direction, the lining looks especially original and impressive. Designers advise applying a layer of special paint to clapboard ceilings, which gives them an aging effect.

Panels gray made of larch will highlight well, and the colorless varnish will give the coating additional shine and beauty.

If you first study the technology of how to properly cover ceilings with clapboard, then installation will not take much time and effort. As a result of the work, you will get an original and beautiful ceiling.

Ceiling finishing with clapboard video