When decorating the interior of a bathroom, it is necessary to choose the right finishing materials for the walls and floor, and select the necessary plumbing fixtures. The design of the room is often spoiled by various engineering Communication, water supply and sewerage. A pipe box in the bathroom will help hide elements from prying eyes.

Materials for creating the structure

When installing the box, there is no need to resort to the help of a specialist; you can do it yourself. At the initial stage of work, a frame is made that will serve as the basis for securing the finishing material. The element is made of galvanized metal profile. The guides are placed vertically or horizontally, then secured with jumpers.

A wide variety of materials can be used as finishing. They must have the following properties:

• high levels of moisture resistance (air humidity in the bathroom is constantly changing, which can lead to the formation of fungus and mold on surfaces);
• minimal weight of the finish and small thickness (due to such qualities, the installation of structural elements is simplified);
• environmental safety of the products used;
• attractive appearance finishing.

Several materials meet these requirements.

PVC

Panels made of polyvinyl chloride have an attractive appearance. Products are available on construction market in a wide range. A person can choose the finish according to personal preferences; in any case, the panels must fit into the existing interior of the room.

A toilet box made of PVC panels has the following advantages:

• excellent moisture resistance;
• strength and durability;
• minimum weight of panels;
• ease of installation without special construction tools;
• easy to clean, just wipe the surface with a damp cloth;
• low cost of material;
• possibility of carrying out repair work: damaged panels are removed from the frame and replaced with new elements;
• compactness.

A plastic box for pipes in the bathroom is ideal for small spaces, because the panels are thin. Alternative option This material can be considered plasterboard panels.

Moisture-resistant drywall

You can find several product options in stores. Standard drywall is used in ordinary residential premises, but it is not suitable for the bathroom, where high humidity is constantly present. The way out of this situation is to use sheets moisture-resistant plasterboard. Products are suitable for standard designs rectangular shape or parts with convex surfaces, but this will require special skills in working with the material.

Moisture-resistant sheets can be identified by their green surface. The slabs are treated with antiseptic solutions that prevent the appearance of fungus and mold. Installation of plasterboard boxes in bathrooms has the following features:

• installation of elements is much more difficult than fixing plastic panels;
• get collapsible design will not succeed, therefore it is necessary to provide a small door or hatch in the box that will provide unhindered access to the shut-off valves;
• Plasterboard slabs are considered the base; ceramic tiles or moisture-resistant paint can be used as a finishing material.

Important! For increase performance characteristics The surface of drywall is coated with special impregnations, which additionally protect the material from the harmful effects of moisture.

Waterproof plywood

The products differ from sheets of ordinary plywood in their special composition. Natural wood veneer is securely glued together using a special glue, which increases the strength and moisture resistance of the material. A person can choose required thickness sheets, this parameter ranges from 6 to 40 mm. The main disadvantage of finishing is its high cost; its surface must be additionally coated with waterproof compounds.

MDF and HDV

Some craftsmen recommend assembling a box from MDF panels. In fact, it is not advisable to use this material in the bathroom, because fiberboards absorb moisture well, which will lead to their destruction in the future.

You can close the pipes using HDV slabs. The products differ from the previous version in increased density, they are better resistant to moisture. HDV will last in the bathroom for at least 10 years without losing its initial technical characteristics.

OSB

Oriented strand boards (OSB) will become ideal option for finishing the box. They contain synthetic resins and other components that prevent wood from rotting. You can find several types of slabs on the construction market, but for the bathroom, panels with additional impregnation, labeled OSB-3 or OSB-4, are best suited.

Design selection

There are several ways to disguise utility lines: different ways. The most popular box designs:

• the cabinet is installed above vertical pipes and can be equipped with shelves for various small utensils and household items;
• a partition box is a fairly large structure that is installed along the entire length or height of the room. Specified option Well hides all engineering systems, including sewer pipes, ideal for large premises. The box can be used during installation various elements plumbing, it hides the toilet installation well or the inlet pipes from the sink coming from the mixer. Behind the partition, shelves are installed for storing household chemicals;
• compact horizontal or vertical boxes are used in small bathrooms. The structures occupy a minimum amount of usable space.

Important! Before choosing a specific option, it is necessary to determine the dimensions of the structure and make appropriate notes on the wall.

Required Tools

To make a removable box for pipes in the toilet, you will need:

• galvanized metal profile for framing;
• dowel-nails for fixing guides on the surface of the walls;
• laser or regular building level used for marking work;
• Serpyanka or reinforcing tape is used to securely connect plasterboard sheets;
• stationery knife;
• screwdriver and screws or self-tapping screws for fastening finishing materials on a frame;
• perforator;
• putty and spatula;
• electric jigsaw;
• tin snips or a grinder with an abrasive disc are used to cut the guides.

You will need putty and a spatula, a primer for treating drywall surfaces before finishing.

In addition to the specified tool, other devices can be used, it depends on the specific finishing material.

Creating a box from plasterboard

For creating decorative box from sheets of moisture-resistant plasterboard, you must follow the following step-by-step instructions:

1. On preparatory stage work, take measurements on the walls at the locations of the pipes, transfer the distances to paper, make detailed plan design devices (opposite the meters and shut-off valves, a hole is provided for a hatch).
2. Marking lines are applied in the bathroom on the surface of the walls and ceiling, if necessary (the minimum distance between the extreme part of the utility line and the inner surface of the box is 3 cm).
3. Proceed to the construction of a frame made of galvanized profile (dowels-nails are used to fix the guides, for fastening to wooden structures– screws or self-tapping screws).
4. In the case of a masking box vertical pipes engineering systems, first of all, a metal profile is installed on the walls, then on the ceiling. To ensure the rigidity of the structure, jumpers are installed. The box should have a minimum number of bends, this will greatly simplify installation work.
5. Cut sheets of moisture-resistant plasterboard in such a way that a minimum number of joints is obtained.
6. The sheets of material are secured with self-tapping screws to the previously installed frame.
7. Lay serpyanka (reinforcement mesh) and apply putty on the corners of the structure and at the junctions of the sheets.
8. Insert doors or an inspection hatch.

At the final stage of work, cover the box with primer and begin finishing works. The structure can be painted or tiled to match the color of the walls in the bathroom.

Collapsible design

If necessary, you can make a collapsible box, which will simplify the repair of utilities. In this case, sheets of drywall are secured with screws to the edge of the frame. The finishing material in the end part is not puttied; in the future it will be covered with a metal corner. To disassemble the structure, simply remove the corners and unscrew the screws.

Tiling

To disguise utility lines, ceramic tiles must be selected according to the color and pattern of the existing finishing material. At the initial stage of work, drywall is coated with a primer, which will promote better adhesion base surface. Make a preliminary layout of the tiles and determine the most advantageous placement of the elements.

Now you need to prepare the glue. The solution is mixed with water according to the manufacturer's instructions. The mixture is applied to the surface using a notched trowel, after which the tiles are laid. To maintain equal gaps between adjacent elements, plastic crosses are used. The position of the ceramic tiles is adjustable rubber mallet and building level.

To trim tiles, use a tile cutter or grinder with an abrasive disc. During work, it is necessary to take into account the size of the gap between the tiles. When the glue has dried, fill the seams with grout of the selected color using a rubber spatula and clean the surface of dirt.

Creating a box from plastic panels

The construction of a box made of plastic panels is carried out using the same technology. First, marking lines are applied on the walls of the room. After this, they begin to install the U-shaped and corner profile. When the frame is installed, measurements are taken, plastic is cut, and panels are inserted into the frame. Plastic products don't need additional processing, they perfectly withstand the effects of humidity.

Access to communications

For unhindered access to utilities, water meter and shut-off valves, a door or inspection hatch is provided. The products are made from the same material as the box trim. For ease of use, a furniture handle is attached to the doors. To prevent spontaneous opening, the product is equipped with magnets.

• when installing vertical design marking lines are drawn in the direction from the floor to the ceiling;
• it is necessary to treat the inner surface of the finishing material with an antifungal agent or antiseptic;
• it is important to provide inspection holes in the design for using shut-off valves or monitoring the amount of water used;
• you need to use a metal profile to construct a frame for drywall;
• It is better to secure the sheets with self-tapping screws every 30 cm.

And the last, but very important requirement: if the pipes are in close proximity, they should be placed in one box. Minimum distance from inner surface structures to utilities is 3 cm.

August 10, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works(laying a foundation, erecting walls, constructing a roof, etc.). Internal construction work (laying internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communications, high technology, computer equipment, programming.

The best way to disguise utility lines in a plumbing room is to construct a box in the bathroom for the pipes. I recently renovated a city apartment and constructed a similar structure using plasterboard. The result is a fairly simple and functional design.

Features of the bathroom box

A sanitary room is a room with a specific microclimate in which public utilities - water supply and sewerage - run.

Pipes in the bathroom are also usually equipped with monitoring devices (hot and cold water) and control ( shut-off valves). And herself engineering system requires periodic maintenance - monitoring the integrity of connections, cleaning filters, replacing damaged areas and so on.

In this regard, the bathroom box must meet several important requirements:

1. Take up minimal space. Considering small area plumbing room, the structure must be made of such a size that it does not take away free space. But at the same time, the casing and profiles must be at least 3 cm away from the pipes.
2. Provide free access to engineering systems. The design of the box should be such that you or a plumber can easily access pipes, meters and taps for inspection or repair. It is better if the box is removable, but as a last resort it is necessary to install sufficient quantity inspection doors.
3. Be safe.
4. To harmonize with the decorative finish of the bathroom.

There are many more requirements that can be named, but these, in my opinion, must be taken into account without fail.

Choosing the right material

Now let's figure out what to make the box out of. Most often I had to construct it for pipes from plastic panels and plasterboard.

A plastic box is more suitable for a riser in a plumbing room, the walls and ceiling of which are finished similar material. Then the bathroom interior will look holistic and harmonious.

I prefer to use drywall. This material, when compared with plastic panels, has more advantages, which I have listed in the table:

Characteristic	Description
Easy to install	Plasterboard sheets are easily fixed to a frame made of galvanized profiles, so they can be used to construct a box of any shape and size. You do not need to have any special skills or use complex engineering equipment.
Light weight	Plasterboard sheets weigh little, so they do not put additional load on the structural elements of the building. And to hold them, thin and light galvanized parts are sufficient.
Flexibility	When wetted with water and trimmed on one side, the gypsum board can be given a rounded shape, creating a spectacular and unique box in the plumbing room, which will become the central element of the design.
Smooth surface	Drywall sheets have ideal flat surface, which facilitates their subsequent decorative processing of the box. You do not have to perform additional leveling using beacon plaster.
Variety of finishes	The surface of a box made of plasterboard sheets can be decorated with any finishing material. Most often, tiles are glued to gypsum boards, but you can also use wallpaper, paint, and lining (plastic or wood).
Fire safety	The described material consists of hardened gypsum and thin sheets cardboard, therefore it is difficult to ignite in a fire and does not support combustion. When exposed to an open flame, it does not emit toxic smoke or combustion products hazardous to health.
Environmental friendliness	The material has zero level formaldehyde emissions, therefore completely safe for the human body both during installation and during further operation.
Affordable price	The cost of plasterboard sheets is low, so anyone can afford this method of covering a box, even if the amount planned for toilet repair is small.

I would like to note right away that to construct the box it is necessary to use moisture-resistant drywall, which is painted in green color. It tolerates operation better in conditions high humidity and is specially designed for installation in sanitary facilities.

By the way, from plastic panels assembled on galvanized profiles, you can construct an excellent laundry box. Including portable. If you choose the color of the panels to match the tiles or the color of the plumbing fixtures, such a container for dirty things will look quite natural in the bathroom.

Tools and additional materials

In addition to drywall, you will need other tools and materials. Personally, I use this set for work:

1. UD profiles for constructing frame parts running along the walls and ceiling.
2. CD profiles for mounting the frame racks of the future box, as well as the production of stiffening elements for the future structure.
3. Dowel nails or screws with plastic dowels that will be used to secure wall profiles to the surface.
4. Building level. It is best to use a laser, but a regular water one is also quite suitable. A long tool is more suitable, since you will have to mark the walls.
5. Reinforcing tape for strengthening seams between sheets of drywall. It is called serpyanka.
6. Knife for cutting drywall sheets. A regular stationery knife with replaceable blades or a specialized tool will do.
7. Hammer for drilling holes in reinforced concrete walls bathroom.
8. Screwdriver for securing plasterboard sheets to a constructed galvanized frame.
9. Self-tapping screws for drywall. You will need regular ones (with a sharp tip) and special ones (their tip looks like a metal drill). The latter are useful for installing drywall sheets on the installation frame.
10. Putty for drywall. Used together with serpyanka to seal seams between sheets of sheathing.
11. Acrylic primer. It is used to treat the surface of gypsum boards in order to reduce their absorbency and increase adhesion to tile adhesive (or other decorative material).
12. Metal scissors. With their help, parts of suitable size are cut from long galvanized profiles.
13. Spatulas. Used for puttying drywall joints and gluing tiles.

Box installation technology

This time I will tell you how to install a box in a bathroom made of plasterboard, with the help of which you can not only cover the pipes, but also hide the installation for wall hung toilet(since the plumbing room in the case I described was combined).

I divided the technology for installing such a box into several successive stages, which are shown in the diagram below:

Marking

I'll start by marking the walls for installation of U-shaped galvanized profiles. As I already said, I will sheathe the installation together with the pipelines, to which the toilet will subsequently be attached. Initially, the future battlefield looks like this:

Let's start marking. Despite the apparent simplicity of this process, the technology has several secrets, which I want to talk about in more detail:

1. I mark the walls near the vertical pipes. This is done as follows:
   • First you need to find a section of the pipe that protrudes further than others, then measure a distance from it equal to 3-5 cm (minimum acceptable) and make a mark on the wall.

• Using a laser or water level, draw a strictly vertical line that starts from the ceiling, passes through the mark you made and ends at the floor.
• The same should be done with the adjacent wall. First, a mark is made indicating the surface of the future box, after which a strictly vertical line is drawn through it.

1. I mark the boundaries of the future box on the ceiling and floor. These will be guidelines for securing the profiles to the mentioned surfaces. The work flow is as follows:
   • Near the ceiling, a square is applied to the line on the wall so that its long part is perpendicular to the bathroom wall.
   • After this, the square is installed flush with a vertical line drawn on the wall.
   • Using a pencil, draw a line on the ceiling along which you subsequently need to secure the U-shaped profile.
   • Conducted in a similar manner perpendicular to the wall line from the adjacent wall. The markup should look like this.
   • After this, you need to mark the floor in the same way, on which profiles will also be installed to secure the frame of the future box.

1. I mark the installation locations for the profiles near the toilet installation. In this place, the box will occupy a minimum of free space in the bathroom, therefore the profiles will be installed at the same level as the border of the installation frame. The sequence of actions is as follows:
   • You should attach a square to the frame, using it as a guide to make a mark on the bathroom wall that will be flush with the frame.
   • Using the marks made, you need to draw lines on the wall.
   • Check that the markings are done correctly using a water level. The marks must be strictly vertical and horizontal.

1. When marking, you can focus not on the dimensions of the pipes, but on geometric parameters tiles In this case, marking the boundaries of the structure is done as follows:
   • In the corner opposite to where the box will be placed, it is necessary to retreat approximately 1.2 cm from the junction of the walls (the thickness of the tile is adhesive composition) and mark it with a pencil. Then, through this line, draw a vertical line along the entire wall - from ceiling to floor.

• The distance from this mark to the intended location of the box is measured. After which the resulting value is divided by the width of the tiles used for cladding plus 2 mm for the seam between each.
• Then a mark is placed for the box so that after laying the tiles there is no need to trim them. Or so that the cut tile is wide (that is, the cut part is narrow). This way the box will look as organic as possible.

After completing the marking, you can proceed to the installation of galvanized profiles, onto which the drywall will subsequently be attached.

Installation of profiles

Let's start work by installing frame profiles that will sheathe vertical water and sewer pipes. The installation sequence is as follows:

1. I install galvanized profiles on the floor of the room. To secure them, dowels and nails will be used:
   • First you need to cut the U-shaped galvanized profile so that its length is equal to the length of the floor mark. You can cut the part using metal scissors.
   • After this, the cut piece is tried on at the place of its installation. If for some reason protruding parts interfere with its installation, small area the profile can be trimmed with scissors and bent with pliers.

• The fitted part is then pressed to the floor and straight through it into concrete surface Using a puncher, a hole is made with a depth of 5 cm and a diameter that corresponds to the diameter of the selected dowels (usually 6 mm).

• After this, a plastic dowel with a metal core is driven into the hole, which will firmly hold metal part in the place designated for it.
• Holes are drilled in the same way and the remaining dowels are driven in. The distance between adjacent fasteners is approximately 20 cm.

1. I install galvanized UD profiles on the ceiling of the room. The sequence of actions is described in the previous paragraph. It is very important to ensure that all profiles are installed strictly according to the markings. Otherwise, serious difficulties will arise when installing intermediate profiles and securing sheets of drywall.
2. I install vertical parts on the walls. This also requires UD profiles and dowel nails. The work flow is as follows:
   • Using metal scissors, a part is cut from the profile, the dimensions of which correspond to the distance from the floor to the ceiling.
   • After this, the profile is inserted inside the parts that are already fixed to the ceiling and floor.

• Then the profile is nailed to the surface using dowel nails. First, it’s better to drill a hole and hammer in fasteners near the floor and ceiling so that the part is firmly held in place, and then make intermediate fastenings at a distance of approximately 20 cm from each other. It is important to ensure that the galvanized profile is installed strictly along the line drawn on the wall.
• After this, the vertical and horizontal parts must be fastened together using small self-tapping screws (“bugs”). To do this, you need to squeeze the two parts together with pliers, and then screw the self-tapping screw into this place. If this is not done, the surface internal detail When screwed into it, the fasteners may bend.

• If the length of your existing profile is not enough, then you can build a suitable part from two. To do this, they are inserted into each other at a distance of 15-20 cm. On the wall, this area must be reinforced with a separate dowel and screw.

1. Installing corner piece for the vertical part of the box. It uses not UD, but a CD profile, which has the required strength. The installation diagram is simple. Part needs to be cut required length, then insert it into the profiles on the ceiling and floor, and then fasten it together with small screws, as described in paragraph 3.4.
2. I install intermediate stiffeners. They are made from CD profiles. The vertical distance between adjacent elements is approximately 30 cm. They connect the wall profile with the central part and provide the required stiffness and structural strength during subsequent cladding and operation. Make sure that the stiffeners are installed strictly horizontally. As a result, you should get something like this design (1 – wall profile, 2 – central profile, 3 – stiffener).

1. I install galvanized profiles for the box that covers the installation. The workflow here is even simpler:
   • First, UD profiles are attached to the wall using pre-made marks using dowel nails or screws.
   • Then the corner of the installation is connected to the profiles on the wall with another piece. All of them are fastened to each other using self-tapping screws (node ​​number 1 in the figure below).
   • Please note that in the case I am describing, the frame for covering the installation was attached after covering the vertical box with plasterboard. However, I describe this process here so as not to violate the logic of presentation (node ​​number 2 in the figure below).

At this point, the frame manufacturing process is completed and you can proceed to covering it with plasterboard.

Fastening drywall sheets

How to attach drywall to a made frame:

1. I cut gypsum boards into parts of the required size. Despite the apparent simplicity of this operation, it has several nuances that I would like to dwell on in more detail:
   • First, using a tape measure, you need to measure the width of each surface of the resulting frame, and then transfer these dimensions to the plasterboard sheets.

• Then, along the resulting lines, the sheets are cut into parts. To do this, an aluminum rule (or level) is applied to the line, after which a knife is used to cut through the cardboard layer on the plasterboard and part of the plaster. The part is then turned over to the other side and broken. All that remains is to cut off the second layer of cardboard and trim the end.

• If necessary, technological holes must be made in the sheathing sheets before screwing them to the frame. To do this, drywall is applied to the installation site, after which the areas to be removed are marked. Then they are cut out using the same knife or a piece of blade from a metal file (for holes round shape you can't think of anything better).

• Holes are required for installing inspection doors. Usually they are cut in places where meters or shut-off valves are located. It is also necessary to provide access to inspection holes in sewer pipes to clean them if they become clogged.

1. I screw the plasterboard sheets to the profiles and guides. The sequence of actions is as follows:
   • To secure the gypsum board to the frame, black self-tapping screws with sharp tips are used.
   • You need to tighten the fasteners using a screwdriver that can rotate at low speeds.

• The profiles are attached to both the side and intermediate guides. The distance between adjacent screws is 20 cm. Thus, it is necessary to sheathe all sections of the constructed frame. I came up with this design.

1. I am covering an installation for a wall-hung toilet with plasterboard. There are several here important features, which are worth special mention:
   • I started constructing the box and covering the installation only after finishing work with the vertical part of the box, since according to my idea, the guide part is attached to the drywall.

• The top and side parts of the installation are sheathed plasterboard sheets in one layer, since during operation it does not experience increased loads, and the front side of the structure must be sheathed with two layers of plasterboard.

• To secure the gypsum board to a metal installation, you need to use special self-tapping screws (number 1 in the figure below), the tip of which is shaped like a metal drill. If you don’t have these, then before screwing in a regular self-tapping screw (number 2 in the figure below) you need to drill a hole with a diameter of 3 mm in the installation.

• TO front side installation, first screw the first sheet of drywall, and then, on top of it, the second. All necessary technological holes must be pre-cut in both parts.

At this point, the process of attaching drywall to the frame of our box can be considered complete. I ended up with this design.

Now you can start decorative finishing surface of the box.

Finishing

As finishing For my installation box, I chose ceramic tiles. Although, as I said above, the beauty of drywall is that it can be finished with any decorative material- with wallpaper, paint, and, if desired, plastic.

The work plan for gluing tiles is as follows:

1. I fill the gaps between the gypsum boards. For this, joint putty is used. For example, Knauf Fugenfüller. To further strengthen these areas, you can use fiberglass tape - serpyanka. The work is done in this order:
   • The seams are treated with a drywall primer. It will remove dust from these areas of the box and improve the adhesion of the surface to the putty used.
   • Pre-mixed with water or already ready mixture You need to apply it with a spatula to the seams between the sheets, then carefully press it inward.
   • Glue the sickle strip on top of the seam, then apply a small amount of mortar on top and level it with a spatula.

1. Primer surface of drywall. It is better to process gypsum board twice. The putty can be applied using a roller or a regular brush. Processing in two layers increases the adhesion strength of the glue and, accordingly, the latter is better able to hold the tile on the surface of the finished box.

1. I am laying tiles. This process is described in detail in my articles posted on this site, so those interested can refer to them for the necessary information. I will not dwell on this process here.

After finishing laying the tiles and drying the glue using silicone

In this material we will talk about this method of hiding pipes in the bathroom, such as installing a box made of plasterboard or plastic, and also consider the main points for its installation.

As a rule, pipes for cold and hot water They look, at the very least, unattractive. Naturally, apartment owners make every effort to hide them. Currently there are several practices simple ways solutions to this problem, the most common of which is to install a pipe box in the bathroom.

Before making a pipe box, you need to organize access to the laid pipes after installation finished design. This will greatly simplify the implementation of possible future work for preventive or repair purposes.

Making a box frame

Box designs for plumbing pipes there may be several, but the stages of their installation will be the same in any case.

First you need to decide on the material for the frame and cladding. The frame can be made from aluminum profile or wooden slats. Next, the dimensions of the space occupied by the pipes are measured, after which they proceed to assembling the frame from sections. The structure is attached to the wall and floor with self-tapping screws.

It is worth noting that in order to facilitate the work, wooden blocks can be installed in advance at the frame attachment points.

After assembling and positioning the frame, they proceed to cladding operations.

Types of boxes

Plasterboard box

Most often, the box for covering pipes in the bathroom is made from plasterboard.

This method consists of performing the following work:

• First of all, draw reference lines on the wall, retreating from the pipes by 3-5 cm on both sides. To ensure straight lines, you can use a building level.
• Next, a profile of a certain size is set along the drawn lines, and a cut piece of drywall with a thickness of 9.5 mm is attached to it.
• Now another piece of the profile is cut off and attached to the outer ends of the workpieces. The front part is mounted on the base, which is fastened with self-tapping screws every 25 cm.

• The joints are thoroughly puttied, and then the surface is either painted or covered with any material that the owner liked best.

It is worth noting that the place where the drywall meets the wall can be hidden by installing decorative plinth, for example, a corner intended for the bathroom.

Using polystyrene panels as a box

Also quite a popular material for finishing bathrooms and toilets are polystyrene panels. It can be installed without constructing a frame. That is, plastic box for polystyrene pipes is also perfect for solving our problem. Such panels have special legs that can be adjusted in height, which is also a big plus when used in rooms with a slightly curved floor. The legs will make it possible to take into account all the irregularities, up to 10 cm.

Installation of a box for plastic pipes is carried out in the following sequence:

• The end support is attached to the wall.
• The edges of the panels located on the sides and top are lubricated with glue, then they are installed and adjusted.

• Use a wrench to adjust the legs of the panels to obtain required height. After this, you can consider that the installation of the box is complete.

Ready-made box plastic material It turns out to be very high quality and durable.

Lining the box with tiles

Ceramic tiles are suitable as lining for a box made of fiberboard, moisture-repellent plywood or plasterboard. Tiles are most suitable for use in the bathroom because they are very durable and are not afraid of moisture.

In addition, it comes in many shades and textures. The cladding, as a rule, starts from the front side, and after that they move on to the sides.

Please note that the tiles are attached using a special glue.

Carrying out markings, creating a work plan, installation

The pipe box in the room can be mounted in any place where it is required. The main thing is to make the entire list of calculations in time, even before installation, so that, thanks to the correctly selected location for placing the box, you can make the most efficient use of the available space.

Even before purchasing all materials, you need to draw up an estimate and make markings. In order for the calculations to be as accurate as possible, you need to take into account not only the dimensions of the box, but also the furniture and plumbing fixtures that will be installed in the bathroom.

There is nothing complicated in installing the box, since this structure is nothing more than a typical frame assembled from profiles for arches, partitions and other similar structures. It is noteworthy that it is even easier to use it in the bathroom, because there is no need to give the frame complex shape– you only need to make an even rectangle.

In addition, the frame is most often installed in a corner, which makes its installation even easier and slightly cheaper. To mount the box in the corner, you need to buy only three profiles in height from floor to ceiling, and a fourth profile for cutting lintels. To install the box, you need to fasten the profiles to the walls, ceiling and floor, and then fasten them together with jumpers to get a strong structure.

It is important to know that, in order to make it easier to attach finishing materials after installing the box, you can install pieces wooden beam in the middle of the box.

Last stage: sheathing and lining the box

The final stage, which consists in sheathing the box, also cannot be called difficult, because all the markings have already been made, you just need to accurately cut the material and start sheathing the frame with it.

The cladding material must have moisture-repellent qualities, since the bathroom is a room with excessive humidity. Under such conditions, the service life of a large number of materials is greatly reduced.

It is worth noting that the box must be additionally insulated and sealed so that condensation does not collect on the pipes inside. For this you can use polyurethane foam, sealants and other thermal insulation materials.

In the article above we looked at how to make a box for pipes in a bathtub. We can conclude that it is quite simple to complete all the work, the main thing is to acquire high-quality and the right materials, and make precise markings.

Collapsible box design

The box was made of moisture-resistant plasterboard and metal guides PN40x50. The design consists of three attached elements stacked on top of each other. Each section of the box is a corner element and is attached to the bathroom walls using conventional hinges. wall shelves. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the walls and there are counter holes in the guides. The box is hung with screws, but at the same time rests on the floor or lower section of the box. This fastening reliably holds the structure from moving. Can be used as an additional or main mount metal corners With inside boxes Access to them is provided through the hatch and from the outside when the upper section is removed. Handles are attached to the inside of the sections for ease of movement during installation.

Horizontal joints of sections are made along the seams of the tiles. Old tiles When the previous box was destroyed, it was not possible to save it, and there was only a dark one in stock. It was used for the bottom of the box. Mosaic was purchased for the middle and upper parts, suitable color. Tiles and glued to drywall using liquid nails. An opening hatch is mounted in the middle part for everyday access to valves and water meters. The design turned out to be not very light, but if it is necessary to provide access to the riser pipes, it can be disassembled and assembled by two people very quickly, which is exactly what was required. We left the seams between the sections unsealed; if desired, you can seal them with silicone or rubber seal, because it is planned to dismantle this structure only as a last resort.

When developing a bathtub frame project, the main attention should be paid to accuracy measuring tool(it is advisable to have a ruler or tape measure with a measurement accuracy of up to 0.5 mm). Be sure to transfer all measurement results onto paper, and then draw up a sketch of the future frame to scale with drawing exact dimensions. In the future, this will help you avoid mistakes when marking materials and their installation.

What is this article about?

What shape does a bathtub frame come in?

They can be roughly divided by type of material (wooden, metal, brick) and by shape (for corner, rectangular, round bowl). The main property of such a box is its strength and ability to withstand extremely high weight loads (the weight of a bowl of water and a person). The second condition is that the base material must have protective covering, protecting against high humidity, direct ingress of water and not deforming from temperature changes. The shape of the frame should copy the geometry of the bowl as much as possible and ensure strength.

Materials

Taking into account all the characteristics, we choose the option - a box in the bathroom made of plasterboard and a metal profile. Speaking in simple language, in order to assemble the bathtub frame we will need following materials and accessories:

• plasterboard (moisture resistant with improved characteristics of vapor permeability, water absorption and surface density);
• screws (with a countersunk head, with a cross-head slot and a sharp end);
• metal profiles (UD and CD);
• stationery knife;
• metal scissors;
• ruler and tape measure;
• building level;
• cordless screwdriver.

The advantages of drywall (used for installing partitions, suspended ceilings, wall cladding):

• lightness and strength;
• environmental friendliness and stability of characteristics.

Advantages of a metal profile (used for mounting frames):

• ease;
• corrosion resistance;
• obedience during work;
• price policy.

The technological process of using plasterboard includes the following main stages of work:

• marking sheets in accordance with the design position of the structure;
• installation of a frame from a profile for fastening sheets;
• installation and fastening of sheets to the frame;
• sealing seams between sheets and recesses from screws with putty;
• priming the surface for finishing coatings.

Technological process of application metal profiles slightly simpler than drywall and involves marking, cutting and fastening.

Important! Before installing the frame, it is necessary to determine the installation height, depending on individual preferences for the placement of plumbing and communication systems (height is taken as a basis - 600 mm).

An equally important activity is the removal horizontal level. You can draw the “horizon” using construction or laser level. Correct marking is the main condition for accurate installation of the bathtub.

Installation procedure

How to make a plasterboard box in the bathroom? For example, consider the rectangular option, standard bath. If the installation of the supporting perimeter for the bathtub will be made from plasterboard profile, then the first thing you need to do is attach the profile strips cut to size to the floor with dowel nails and connect them into a rectangle.

The installation of support posts must be done as carefully as possible, since they will bear the main load. If the stand is adjacent to a wall, secure the stand to the wall in at least three places.

Next, you need to assemble the upper support rectangle, which is necessary to evenly distribute the load across all support posts. The shape accurately copies the assembly of the lower support. Lay the profiles on corner posts and fasten firmly with self-tapping screws.

If you doubt the strength of the structure, you can fasten vertical racks another longitudinal segment, placing it exactly in the middle. If you think that this rigidity is not enough, install wooden racks parallel to the profile posts, having previously treated them with a protective compound.

How to cover a bathtub? Drywall can be cut to size using a regular utility knife and ruler. Simply set aside the required size and run a knife along the surface of the sheet, bend the sheet as if you want to bend a sheet of paper so that the cut line remains on top. Drywall will easily break along the cut line. Everything is very simple, the main thing is not to be afraid, and you can practice on small fragments (scraps) of drywall. How to install a bathtub on a frame? If the box of profiles is assembled without errors and lined with plasterboard, then installing a bowl in it will not be a problem. If the bathtub is made of acrylic, then you can install it alone, but it is better to ask for help and, without straining, install the bathtub into the base of the frame.

After we assembled the frame for the bathtub with our own hands, we decided on the question of how to sew up a bathtub with plasterboard, the next step is next stage– how to hide plasterboard sheathing or how to decorate the box? The most popular option is to veneer the surface ceramic tiles or mosaic. To do this, we will need about 30 ceramic tiles of the most common size (300x300 mm) and 2–3 kg of tile adhesive.

The joints between the wall and the bathroom must be reliably sealed. Here again there are several options:

• plastic corner (attached with silicone sealant);
• ceramic corner for the bathroom (plays the role of decoration and prevents moisture from penetrating the seam between the bathtub and the wall, thereby preventing the occurrence of fungus and mold, as well as the destruction of finishing materials from the inside, attached to tile adhesive);
• seal the seams using sealant or liquid glass.

The most aesthetic and reliable way- ceramic corner. Plastic corner most susceptible to fungus, silicone glue becomes darker when exposed to moisture and loses its attractiveness.

Finally, let's look at frameless method when the bathtub is installed on universal standard racks. But even in this case, it is best to assemble the screen under the bathtub from plasterboard and line it with ceramics or plastic. The technology for arranging such a screen is very simple and convenient. Again, a profile is cut to the specified dimensions onto which the drywall is attached. Decorating such a screen is a matter of taste and your financial opportunities. It is best to mount such a screen using bolts with round heads to standard racks. On the racks, provide the option of having nuts (you will have to resort to drilling and welding) into which the bolts will be screwed.

When arranging a frame or screen, do not forget that the space under the bathtub must be ventilated and have access to the siphon. For this purpose, you need to make a technological grid that will solve the problem of access to plumbing and ventilation of the space. There are now a large number of such devices on sale; speaking of sizes, we can give practical advice– buy a door 300x400 mm. If you don’t like a plastic door, you can buy a special door that has the option of finishing with ceramic tiles. In this case, you will still need to consider installing a small ventilation window.

Conclusion

A bathtub installed on a homemade box, the design of which is based on the advice given in this article, is guaranteed to be able to withstand extreme loads and provide long-term safe operation. For a metal bathtub, a frame is desirable, but for long-term use acrylic bathtub it is urgently needed. To install the frame, you need to choose a material that is strong enough and affordable. The most common material for homemade structures is a galvanized profile for plasterboard structures. Installing a bathtub on a frame made of metal profiles covered with plasterboard is the most reliable and effective method, which couldn’t be better.