Experienced farmers know that creating optimal conditions for animals is one of the most important factors influencing their health and proper development. It is not necessary to purchase ready-made cages for rabbits; you can make them yourself. In this case, first you need to figure out what type of structure is most suitable for rabbits, what drawings with dimensions to use, what will be required in the work.

Sizes for animals of different ages

Before you make a cage for rabbits with your own hands, you need to select simple diagram designs. There are many ready-made solutions, but often they do not fit the size parameters. In this case, all dimensions are increased to the required value or a new layout is prepared.

They mainly use wood and mesh - it's inexpensive, but practical option for arranging a rodent's home

Beginning livestock breeders should keep in mind that one house will not be enough to breed animals. Even if you increase the size of the enclosure, this is not the best for rabbits. suitable option. In this case, a minimum of 3 separate sections are required:

• for adult animals;
• young animals;
• rabbits with offspring;
• large breeds.

Grown-up and adult individuals

The dimensions of the enclosure for adult or grown-up rabbits must meet the following parameters:

• length - 2.1-2.4 m;
• width - 0.6-0.7 m;
• height - 0.5-0.7 m.

But here this area also needs to be divided into 2 separate sections, between which you need to place a feeder with hay and grass. Many rabbit breeders, in order to save space, make rooms in two tiers, doubling the height due to the reduced length.

Baby rabbits

As a rule, young animals are kept in groups. But despite this, rabbits need small enclosures. The area for one animal should be only 0.3 m2. Approximate dimensions:

• length - 250 cm;
• width - 100 cm;
• height - 40-50 cm.

In rare cases, separate houses are not made for rabbits and they are kept in standard sections. But here you will need to initially calculate the area based on the number of young animals.

Rabbit with young animals

Before you build a house for a rabbit with offspring, you should draw a diagram dividing the total area into two sections. This will be the feeding section and the uterine section. Also, the design should include a manhole located slightly above the floor, approximately 150 mm. The female rabbit will be able to easily step over the elevated threshold, but this eliminates the possibility of the baby rabbits falling out of the nest.

The size of the livestock house corresponds to the following parameters:

• depth - 800 mm;
• width - 1200 mm;
• height - 600 mm.

These are the parameters of the uterine section; it is located in the house before the birth.

• length - 400 mm;
• width - 400 mm;
• height - 200 mm.

Giant breeds

The size of the enclosure for domestic giant rabbits depends entirely on the breed of the animal and the intensity of its growth. In houses of standard dimensions, such individuals will be very cramped; larger enclosures will be required here. The minimum dimensional parameters for which you need to make a cage for rabbits are 0.75x0.55x1.7 m.

To prevent your home-made rodent enclosure from collapsing in the first month of use, you should take into account some recommendations from experts:

1. Rabbits are rodents, eager to taste everything that comes into their field of vision. Therefore, if you plan to make your own cages from wood, you need to protect the material by covering all protruding parts metal sheets. This does not require large investments and time, but the enclosure will last for many years.
2. It is not recommended to treat sections with antiseptics, varnishes, impregnations and other chemical protection. The fact is that animals do not tolerate fumes well. chemical substances and may get poisoned.
3. A moisture-resistant coating should be used for the roof. If the animal cage you make will be located on the street, the most the best option Traditional slate will serve.

IN street structures the roof is made of wood, ondulin or slate - the metal heats up quickly, and animals can die in the summer

1. For the frame you need to use wooden blocks with a section of 5x5 cm or metal profiles. The cladding material is a regular chain-link mesh with 2.5 x 2.5 cm cells. The back part must be made blind, since drafts are dangerous for rabbits.
2. To make the floor, a mesh of 2.5x2.5 cm or 1x2.5 cm is used. These cell sizes make it possible not to hold waste inside the house and drain it into a special tank.

A cast floor for an enclosure is not only inconvenient, but also unhygienic. The fact is that rabbits have very pungent urine with a concentrated odor, and this will lead to rapid rotting of the material and create unpleasant aroma. If the rabbit breeder wants to make the enclosure more environmentally friendly, then instead of a mesh on the floor, you can lay a lattice of wood blocks in increments of 5-10 mm.

The floor can be covered with plywood to prevent pododermatitis in pets, but it will have to be dried regularly. It is convenient when there are 2-3 such sheets, while one is in the cage, the others are drying.

Making rabbit cages with your own hands

Blueprints rabbit cage can be found on the Internet, and also made independently, taking into account the necessary parameters or focusing on the standard ones - 1.5x0.7x0.7 m. But the scheme, as experienced rabbit breeders do, often involves the construction of paired houses. This way you can significantly save on material. In this case, the frame will have the following parameters: 3x0.7x1.2 m with a rear height of 100 cm.

Simple design

Before building a rabbit cage with your own hands, prepare the tools and the following materials:

• plywood sheet - 1.5x1.5 m with a thickness of 1 cm;
• wooden beams 3 m with a section 30x50 - 10 units;
• screws for 3 cm and 7 cm - 2 kg;
• mesh netting with cell parameters 1.5 cm - 3 m.

The work order is as follows:

1. From wooden beams, assemble a strong frame with dimensions of 3x0.7x1.2 m and a rear wall height of 1 m. The result will be supports for a slanted roof and a raised floor from the bottom. As flooring the mesh is attached. In the queen cell, the lower part will be monolithic.

1. Cut from plywood sheet part with the required dimensions for the back wall and attach it with self-tapping screws. Also install a piece on the side where you plan to place the queen cell.

1. Decide on the location of the queen cell and, after making the markings correctly, install a vertical wooden beam and fix the wall with the hole and logs on it for subsequent installation of the lid.
2. Next, after partially making the rabbit enclosure with your own hands, you need to build a feeder. It is mounted in the middle of the enclosure on a pre-installed vertical beam. A hay section is installed near this feed container; it is made of steel wire stretched over a square wooden frame.

1. A frame for installing doors 30x50 cm is mounted on the front part. roof covering with an allowance of 5 cm in front and 10 on the other sides.

It should be noted that the doors of the aft compartment should consist of mesh, but for the uterine compartment, 70% should be made of wood, and a small part should be covered with chain-link to allow light to enter.

VIDEO: Detailed instructions for building houses

Making cages for little rabbits

Babies, already weaned from their mother, are kept, as a rule, in one large house of 15-20 individuals. The size is chosen based on the minimum area per animal - 0.3 sq.m. In total, for 20 kids you should get a cage measuring 3x2 meters with a ceiling height of 0.6 meters. The back wall is covered with plywood to prevent drafts. The floor is made of thin metal slats, covered with a metal mesh with rods up to 1.5 mm thick and cells 1.5x4 cm.

Group design for young animals

If the floor is mesh, be sure to install a warm booth where the rabbits can warm themselves. With the onset of cold weather, it is insulated with hay and straw.

If it is not possible to build a separate “kindergarten”, young animals can be housed in cages for adults, but select the area based on the minimum sanitary standards and ease of care.

Cages for large rabbits

It is clear that conventional dimensions are not suitable for such large breeds. For example, a blue Viennese at one year of age already reaches 60 cm and weighs more than 7 kg.

If you are planning to have giants, you need to immediately understand what kind of cages they will need and what sizes you need to focus on. Among the large breeds:

• butterfly;
• German Risen;
• white giant;
• gray giant;
• mottled giant;
• Flanders;
• Soviet chinchilla;
• ram;
• Vienna blue, etc.

The minimum dimensions for one representative of the breed should be as follows:

• height 0.6-0.65 m;
• length 1.0-1.6 m;
• width 0.7-0.8 m.

Please note that this is the maximum permissible minimum; in reality, these dimensions should be increased by at least another 10-20 cm in all directions.

Considering the massive weight, the floor is well strengthened - it is also made from wooden blocks and covered with a metal mesh with a rod diameter of at least 2.5 mm.

Some livestock breeders recommend making a solid floor with plastic trays, but this is only justified if there are few cages. They clean here twice a day, otherwise the animal very quickly gets sick with pododermatitis.

What should be inside the cell

Depending on age and breed, it differs internal filling. So, for young animals there should be a warm house inside the cage where they can warm up. For a female with offspring, queen cells and nesting compartments will be needed.

Separately in the cage, you can set up an enclosure for walking (for young animals). Plus, you will need storage bins, drinking bowls, feeders, and grass compartments.

The feeder and drinker, regardless of what material they are made of, are located outside the cage. This makes it easier to add food and water, and the animal is not tempted to chew it off.

In conclusion, it must be added that rabbit cages are always located in a place protected from the wind - outdoors or indoors. It is advisable to choose the western or southwestern side so that the animal does not suffer from the heat in summer. The dimensions must exactly correspond to the breed, age and number of individuals.

VIDEO: Construction of queen cells

Raising rabbits requires patience and knowledge of their physiology. Without this, results will not be achieved. In winter, rabbits feel better in a heated room specially allocated for them, which is called a rabbitry. A small one is suitable for home breeding.

What should a rabbitry be like?

In order for rabbits to feel normal, not get sick, grow well and reproduce quickly, they need to create a certain atmosphere. They are demanding of living conditions and often get sick in poor conditions. To prevent this from happening, they need the following conditions:

• The optimal temperature is 14-16°C. The temperature in the rabbitry is determined in a place remote from heating devices, walls, windows and doors. Both overheating and hypothermia have a negative effect. When the temperature drops, more feed is required, which is unprofitable. But a gradual rise or fall in temperature is not as destructive as sudden changes. From all this it follows that it is necessary to build an insulated rabbitry, with the possibility of heating and air conditioning. The most justified are rabbit hutches built using insulation mineral wool(thickness is calculated depending on the region). No less attention should be paid to the insulation of the floor and ceiling. The roofing material may not be insulated; it must provide protection from moisture. In this case, it is necessary to take care of the insulation of the ceiling. The cheapest way is to pour a layer of expanded clay onto the ceiling, apply a layer of clay mixed with straw on top, and then you can even throw fallen leaves onto the dried clay for additional thermal insulation.

  

• Rabbits are demanding of air humidity - it must be maintained at 60-75%.
• Drafts have a negative effect on the health of rabbits. This is another argument in favor frame buildings- with proper construction there should be no drafts. However, the rabbitry must have ventilation because they need fresh air and the gases that come from the rabbits' urine and feces must be removed. But the air speed should not be more than 0.3 m/s. Usually, an inlet opening is made, covered by a movable grille at floor level in one corner of the rabbitry, and an exhaust pipe under the ceiling in the other. You can install a damper in the exhaust pipe. Using a movable grille and a damper, you can regulate the speed of air movement in the rabbitry depending on weather conditions. If natural ventilation is not enough, fans are installed in the exhaust or supply pipe with the ability to regulate the speed of rotation of the blades (there should be several modes).
• The second factor that affects the state of the atmosphere in a rabbitry is the regularity of cleaning and the design of the cages. About the cells - a little lower, and here - about cleaning. It should be regular - at least 2-3 times a week. The main indicator is the presence or absence of a strong odor.
• In order for less ammonia to be released, it is necessary to organize the collection of stool so that urine is separated from feces. If the collection goes into trays under the cages, they have a slope and a trench through which the urine is drained into a separate container. If waste is collected through gutters into a pit (with large numbers of rabbits), the ditches must be made so that urine leaks into a lower gutter separated by a mesh. This is enough difficult task, since one part is separated from the other using a mesh, and it often gets clogged. To keep everything in working order, you have to clean it often.

  

  Construction of a rabbitry is a serious matter

The rate of weight gain and fur density are also affected by the illumination of the rabbitry and the length of daylight hours. Rabbits are most active at dusk and at night. Bright lighting is undesirable for them. A sufficient level of illumination is 50-70 lux for adults, 25-30 lux for fattening young animals. At the same time, the duration of daylight hours is 16-18 hours, so in winter lighting is required, but dim. To make the lighting more comfortable when servicing the rabbitry, install several additional light bulbs above the cages, but connect them to the second switch (or to the second key). Another option is to install a brightness control (dimmer). It is installed instead of a regular switch and allows you to change the illumination by turning the control knob.

Rabbit cages

The easiest way to keep rabbits is in cages under a canopy. outdoors. But this option is available in regions with more or less mild winters. Often this type of keeping is practiced at the beginning of a rabbit breeder’s “career,” but gradually they come to the conclusion that a rabbitry is necessary. It’s just that during the winter the livestock often decreases greatly, feed consumption increases significantly, and the gain is very small. It turns out that it is more profitable to build a rabbitry and heat it.

Dimensions and design of rabbit cages

The size of rabbit cages depends on the breed. How larger rabbits, the more space they require. On average, the height of the cage is 500-700 mm, the roof can be sloped back, then the height at the back is 50-100 mm less. The depth of the cage is 50-70 cm. The width is more difficult - cages are made for males and females different sizes. In cages for female rabbits, it is advisable to fence off the queen cell - a closed, small volume in which the female rabbit will build a nest. Without taking into account the queen cell, the length of the cage for males and females is the same - 500-800 cm.

There are several options for constructing a queen cell:

• A cube of boards of a suitable size is placed in spacious cages, in which a hole is made for passage.
• Immediately, during construction, part of the cell for the queen cell is fenced off.
• There are wide removable doors on the sides of the cage. Before the female rabbit has offspring, the doors are removed and the queen cell is hung (reliable fastening is required).

The optimal dimensions of the queen cell are: depth 80 cm, width 60 cm, height 40 cm (or whatever the size of your cell is). It is advisable to make a shelf inside the cell or above the queen cell. On it the rabbit will hide from the annoying little ones. In this case, she will not accidentally trample them, as happens if there is no shelf.

Queen cell hung to the cage for a female rabbit

A hole is made from the queen cell into the main cell. It should not start level with the floor; there should be a threshold of at least 5 cm. In the first days, it will keep the babies inside the queen cell.

How to make a floor

Regardless of the type of keeping rabbits, the cage must be dry. Therefore, a solid floor is made very rarely; it is better to make a cracked one, with large gaps or from metal mesh with a small cell. If the floor is made solid (from a piece of moisture-resistant plywood or OSB), then it is made inclined towards the back wall (you can also towards the front, but this is less convenient). A grate or mesh is nailed into the back of the floor, through which urine pours out and excrement falls out.

It is better to make the floor in a cage for rabbits double - the first level is made of wooden slats or a metal grid

It is much better to make a double floor - the first is lattice, the second is solid. For a slatted floor, take wooden planks 20-25 mm wide and fill them with a gap of 15 mm. All waste, both liquid and solid, normally falls through such gaps. Instead of slats, you can use a rigid mesh with thick wire and small cells.

Mesh floor made of galvanized wire - also performed well

The lower level of the floor - the pallet - is often made of galvanized iron, preferably from a single piece. In this case, a slope is formed (usually in the center of the cell or between two adjacent ones), and a gutter is formed in the center. The height of the pallet is 25-35 mm. Less is inconvenient, more is not necessary.

To make the metal last longer, it can be treated with drying oil. If it is necessary to splice the pieces, make the connection so that everything drains, and it is advisable to coat it with bitumen mastic - so that sewage does not flow onto the floor of the rabbitry.

Cages for female rabbits are queen cells on the sides. The lower level of the floor is made of galvanized steel and has a trough for urine drainage and ease of cleaning.

At the same time, the lower tier of the floor must be movable so that it can be pulled out and washed/cleaned. To do this, corners are stuffed onto which a sheet of metal rides, like on a sled.

It is not necessary to make the lower tier of the floor for each cell. It can be common to two or three located nearby. If these are cages for rabbits, you usually end up with a common tray for two cages, with queen cells on each side. If cages of young animals for fattening or males are located in a row, three cages can be combined.

Sometimes they are also used as a lower floor. flat slate. But in this case, the drain can only be organized backwards or forwards and only into the gutter that runs along the cage - the sheet cannot be bent in any way.

Doors

Doors are usually made with mesh. A frame is made from a block onto which a mesh is stretched. Tighten the nails or screws so that their points do not stick out inside the cage. It is better to stuff the mesh so that it is flush on the side of the cage. This way there is less chance of rabbits chewing through the door. Those who are more comfortable with welding weld a frame from a small corner, stretch the eraser onto a steel wire 3-4 mm in diameter, and weld this wire to the door.

In terms of size, a larger door is more convenient - it will be more convenient for you to maintain the cage. Constipations are ordinary hooks or latches; they are also made in the old fashioned way with a piece of a block that spins on a nail driven into its middle. But this type of constipation is very unreliable.

One of the most simple options constipation for rabbit cages

If carpentry is not your thing, to make the door more rigid, you can fill the block diagonally. It will prevent the door from warping (as in the photo above). Please note that the bar is padded on the outside - this will prevent rabbits from chewing on it.

Roof

You can cover rabbit cages with any inexpensive material. But we must remember that overheating and hypothermia are destructive for rabbits. Therefore, simply throwing a piece of metal or any material based on it will not work. It is better to use a material with low thermal conductivity. For example, you can stuff plywood (moisture-resistant, construction), OSB and any other similar material.

If the cages will be placed outside, without a canopy, something will need to be placed on the sheet material to protect them from precipitation. In more northern areas or when installing the cage in the shade, you can lay roofing material or more modern material for waterproofing. It can not be fused, but glued to bitumen mastic.

Another option is to lay slate, preferably wave slate. Moreover, it is better to raise it above the cage by 15-25 cm. This will create an air gap, it will not be hot in the cage. And the resulting gap can be used for drying/withering grass. Dried in the shade, it retains more nutrients.

Sennik, drinking bowls, feeders

For rabbits you don’t need much equipment - a hay barn, feeders for bulk small feed, drinking bowls. The design of the drinking bowls should be such that they can be easily removed - they need to be washed and the water changed. For these purposes, they usually adapt some kind of trays, under which they are made from a strip of metal." seat", fixed on the door (the most convenient option) or on the wall, close to the door.

There is one very good option for a drinking bowl from the “cheap and cheerful” category. A cutting is used as a “cup holder” sewer pipe with a diameter of 100 mm. Trimming height - 80-100 mm. A trimmed 2-liter bottle is inserted inside this ring. plastic bottle. The bottle is cut flush with the “glass holder”, only a strip 2-3 cm wide and 5-7 cm long remains so that the glass can be easily pulled out.

Senniks are made either between two cages, bevelling adjacent walls in the shape of the letter V. This method is more convenient when building cages for rabbits (seen in several photos above). The second option for cages of males and young animals is to make one of the walls (or part of the wall) lattice-like, and attach a piece of plywood, OSB, a board made of planks, etc. to it on hinges. Fix it in the desired position using a hook, rope, or wire.

In principle, if there is not enough space on the side, such a canopy can be made in the front, on the door. It’s just that in addition to the drinking bowl, they often nail/make a feeder on the door.

Feeders are made by anyone using whatever they can. Some people have plastic or metal trays attached, others make them out of wood, they even try to make them out of drywall. An interesting option seemed to be an attached piece of a large-section plasterboard profile (pictured below).

You can make a feeder out of wood, but the edges must be covered with tin.

If you have some tinsmithing skills, you can make a feeder from galvanized sheet metal.

To get rid of the dusty part of the feed, several small holes are made in the bottom of the feeder.

What materials are the frame and walls made of?

The frame for cages in a rabbitry is made from wooden beams or from a load-bearing (wall) galvanized profile for plasterboard; welded frames from metal pipe. They are the most reliable, but also the heaviest. More suitable for permanent installation in the rabbitry.

The lightest cages are made from a profile, but the choice of materials is very limited - heavy ones cannot be used. When using timber, there are no questions about the weight of the material, but there is a problem - rabbits chew the wood. Therefore, they try to make cells so that there are fewer protruding corners - smooth surfaces they can't chew.

As you saw in the photo, the walls of rabbit cages are made from different materials- plywood, OSB, wooden boards and planks. They often use whoever has what. Most problem areas they beat it with tin or put a mesh on top - this also prevents the wood from being chewed. There are cages that are almost entirely made of mesh. Young animals for fattening feel good in them.

Photo report on the manufacture of a cage for a rabbitry from a galvanized profile

This option is suitable for those regions where wood is expensive or for those who have a lot of profile remains after construction/repair. When making cages, the dimensions are adjusted to the existing molding - small deviations in one direction or another are acceptable, but the rabbits should have room in the cage.

This cage was built for a female with rabbits up to 20 days old. It consists of two sections. The main part is 55*75*55 cm, the mother liquor is 35*55*30 cm. The racks have a reinforced profile, the crossbars are used for normal work - as usual with drywall - the pieces are fastened with self-tapping screws (fleas).

The floor in the main part is made of a block 2 cm thick and 5 cm wide. The planks are attached to the profile with self-tapping screws. The screws must be screwed in so that they can be easily unscrewed - if (or rather, when) the strip is chewed, it will be easy to replace with a new one.

In the queen cell the floor is solid, without cracks. If in winter you are not sure that your rabbitry will be warm enough, it is better to make a double floor in this part and fill the gap with insulation - even expanded clay. In this case, even with a sharp cold snap, the babies will not freeze - their mother usually warms them from above. If it is warm from below, they will not get sick.

The height of the queen cell is 20 cm lower than the main cell. From the inside, in the cage, there is a shelf on which the rabbit will escape from the annoying little ones.

To prevent the external joints of the plywood from being chewed, we cover them with perforated metal corners. You just need to look for the ones that are thicker. We cut the edges of the corners at 45° so that they do not ride up or stick out.

Photos of rabbit cages for installation in a rabbitry and outdoors

Cages in a rabbitry are rarely placed in three tiers - the lower ones are difficult to maintain

Wire walls, pipe frame. Only back wall deaf - to avoid drafts

Many novice farmers wonder where to start raising rabbits. This activity will not require any special expenses. First of all, it is necessary to arrange a place of residence for eared animals, prepare cages, drinking bowls, and feeders. All this can be easily done with your own hands. The main thing is to choose suitable design and size for the cage, prepare drawings, necessary tools and building materials.

First of all, you need to decide on the sizes. The most common are double designs with two separate sections. There are other types of cages: single-section, group for young rabbits, three sections or for a rabbit with babies. There are also original designs: from farmer Zolotukhin, from breeder Tsvetkov. Based on what will be built, materials are selected.

First of all, you need to decide on the type of cell, and then purchase the material.

Necessary tools for construction:

• hacksaw;
• hammer;
• corner;
• pliers;
• plane;
• screwdriver.

Any design requires a frame, walls, floor, ceiling and door. Most often, wood and metal mesh are used to construct cages. Each cell of such a grid should be no more than 2*2 cm and at least 16*47 mm in diameter (depending on the age and weight of the rabbits).

The minimum set of materials includes:

• large sheets of plywood;
• slate;
• screws and nails;
• bars;
• slats;
• durable galvanized mesh (with small cells).

To make the door, curtains and latches, as well as feeders and drinking bowls are additionally purchased.

The wood must be well sanded and sanded, and the ends of the mesh must be securely fastened. Be sure to remove all sharp edges so that the animal does not get hurt. It is better to cover all protruding wooden parts inside the cage with tin. Rabbits love to chew on wood to wear down their teeth. Therefore, you need to put twigs in their feeder more often. The walls and roof can be made of plywood and mesh, and thick blocks of wood are chosen for the main frame.

Attention. If the cage is located in an open space, on the street, then you cannot do without good roofing materials. But metal roof It's not worth doing. In the summer, the sun will become very hot, which will lead to heatstroke in rabbits.

Most often, rabbit cages are made of wood and mesh.

The frame is made of thick bars, the length of which depends on the location of the cage. If it is installed outdoors, then the length of the frame legs should not be less than 80-100 cm. For a cage standing indoors, 35-40 cm in length is sufficient.

Sizes and types of cells

First of all, you need to find or do it yourself, correct drawing. It is important to remember that one cage is not enough to breed rabbits. You need to build three or four at once.

The average dimensions of a standard cage are:

• length 120-140 cm;
• width 70-80 cm;
• height 40-50 cm.

For young rabbits, a length of about 90 cm is sufficient, and other parameters can remain the same. It is customary to allocate at least 0.7 square meters per adult animal. m. area, for young animals - 0.2 sq. m. m.

There can be several types of cells:

• for young animals;
• for adult rabbits;
• for a female rabbit with offspring;
• for giant rabbits;
• solid wire;
• cells from Zolotukhin;
• cells from Tsvetkov;
• Rabbitax.

It is customary to keep female rabbits and babies together, and a separate house is built for older rabbits.

A standard two-story house for adult rabbits is not difficult to build.

In the drawing it will look like this:

Drawing of a two-tier cage for rabbits.

Cage for young animals

Grown-up rabbits, weaned from their mother, are kept together in groups of 10-20 individuals. When manufacturing cells, they are guided by minimum sizes: total area 300×100 cm and ceiling height 50-60 cm. It is advisable to make the floor in such a house from thin wooden slats, covering them on the side with a metal mesh (1.5 mm thick and cell diameter 15 * 40 mm). You can install a completely mesh floor, but make a separate warm room for the rabbits. In winter, it is carefully insulated with hay and straw.

Important: One rabbit should have at least 0.2-0.3 square meters. m. area.

Some farmers do not make separate housing for young animals, but place them in cages intended for adult animals. At the same time, it is calculated how many rabbits can be placed in one cage to provide them with comfortable conditions.

For adult rabbits

For medium-sized adult animals, cages with a depth of about 70 cm, a height of 60 cm and a length of at least a meter are suitable. A block design is used here, and each block, in turn, is divided by a grid into two cells. During the mating period, the partition should be removed, combining the two sections into one.

For adult rabbits, you can make a block of cages in 2 or 3 tiers.

You can make a two-tier and three-tier cage. This will be a little more complicated, but it will save space on the site.

Any cage should be equipped separate place for sleeping, eating or walking. To do this, the cage is separated by a plywood partition with a hole (20x20 cm) located at a height of 15 cm from the floor. The sleeping compartment must have a solid wooden door, and the place for eating and walking is mesh. The resting place does not need to be made large. Ideal sizes, approximately 30x60x50 cm.

House for a female rabbit with offspring

You can often hear the opinion that a rabbit with babies needs a separate queen cell only for winter period, and in the summer an ordinary cage is enough. But you need to remember that in an open room, fenced only with a net, the female will be nervous and worried. This can have a negative impact on the health of the offspring. The queen house must have a closed, warm place for the nest and a large space for walking, with a mesh front wall.

This is one of the simplest and most functional options for a house for a female with offspring:

On the picture bunk cage for female rabbits with hanging nesting compartments.

The frame is made from strong bars, and the back wall and two side walls are made from plywood. The cage is immediately divided into two sections: a large one for walking and a small one for the nest. For each of them, separate doors are made (mesh and solid wood). The walls, floor and ceiling in the queen cell should be double, according to the sandwich principle. You can lay foam or straw between them. The roof is covered with slate.

House for giant rabbits

Cages for these large animals must be significantly larger than usual. Adults can grow up to 60 cm in length and reach a weight of 7.5 kg.

There are many giant breeds:

• butterfly;
• German Risen;
• grey;
• Belgian;
• ram;
• white;
• Viennese blue.

The minimum dimensions of a house for one rabbit should be as follows:

• height 55-65 cm;
• length 0.9-1.5 m;
• width 70-75 cm.

If possible, it is better to increase the parameters of the home.

For young rabbits, a special group cage is built, 40-50 cm high and about 1.2 square meters in area. m. Considering the considerable weight of the animals, the floor is well strengthened. It is also made from galvanized mesh, only thicker. To prevent such a floor from sagging, a sheathing is made under it from bars located at a distance of 3-4 cm from each other.

It is recommended to keep giant rabbits in spacious cages with a solid floor.

Some rabbit breeders install a solid wooden floor in their cages and install plastic trays underneath. But cleaning such a cage will have to be done at least twice a day.

All wire cage

This is the most budget option for rabbit housing, which can be installed both outdoors and indoors. These lightweight and durable cages take up little space and are easy to clean and maintain. To make them, you will need two types of mesh: a larger one for the walls and ceiling (diameter 2.5*5 cm) and a smaller one for the floor (1.5*5 cm). The frame is built from durable timber, with legs 50-70 cm long. In winter, such a structure is placed in an insulated shed, and in summer it is taken outside.

Cages for rabbits from Zolotukhin

The famous breeder N.I. Zolotukhin developed his own, original, simple and inexpensive design of housing for rabbits. There is no need for daily cleaning in the cages, and the animals in them feel comfortable and get sick less.

Zolotukhin's cell is a three-story structure with a sloping plywood floor. The mesh is laid on the floor only on small space against the back wall, without a tray. The second tier is shifted relative to the first by the width of this grid. The third one is located in the same way. The front wall (common to all three floors) forms a slope. Each compartment is equipped with a tilting feeder.

This is what Zolotukhin’s three-tier cage looks like from behind.

To build a cage you will need: wood, straight slate sheets, metal mesh, polycarbonate and tin. A wooden frame, partitions and doors of the queen cell are pre-fabricated. Mesh is used for cage doors and the back of the floor. The floor itself is made of slate, and the back wall is made of polycarbonate. All wooden parts located inside the cage are covered with tin.

Cage dimensions:

• height 150 cm;
• width 200cm;
• depth about 70-80 cm;
• floor slope 6-8 cm;
• mesh width in front of the back wall is 15-20 cm;
• door size 40*40 cm.

Each floor is divided by a partition into two sections, and between them there is space for a hay barn.

Cells from Tsvetkov

Experienced farmer A. A. Tsvetkov proposed the idea of ​​a two-story mini-farm for rabbits, consisting of 4 separate sections. Distinctive feature Such cages are: two gravity feeders, two mounted queen cells, original ventilation and manure removal systems.

The frame is built from coniferous timber and must be painted with white nitro paint. To make a hay barn, moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of at least 8 mm is suitable. The inside of the hay barn is lined with metal mesh, which also acts as a door in each section.

The photo shows rabbit cages made according to the drawings of farmer Tsvetkov.

All wooden parts sheathe sheet metal, the cone for collecting manure is covered with slate mastic. For the roof you can use slate or roofing felt. The water in the drinking bowls is heated using a boiler.

Rabbitax cells

Rabbitax cells come in different designs and modifications. The simplest ones are small two-section options. There are also environmental models based on air flow redirection technology.

There are even real farms for Rabbits rabbits, in which more than 25 individuals live and breed at the same time. You can find a huge number of varieties of such cells on sale. You can make Rabbitax yourself. You can take the drawings of rabbit breeder I. N. Mikhailov as a basis.

Rules for making a cage

In order for the rabbits to be comfortable and comfortable in the new house, during construction you need to follow a few simple rules:

• all wooden protruding parts inside the cage are covered with tin;
• It is better to use slate for roofing;
• Antiseptics, varnishes and impregnations cannot be used;
• for the floor, take a mesh with cells with a diameter of 1 * 2.5 cm to 2.5 * 2.5;
• the frame is built from durable wooden beams (at least 5*5 cm);
• The back wall of the cage is made of plywood.

The floor in rabbit cages is made of wooden slats or mesh.

How to build a rabbit hutch

When a drawing has been selected, materials and tools have been prepared, construction can begin. First you need to assemble a frame from timber and lay a mesh floor. In outdoor conditions, the floor will have to be insulated and there will be removable trays underneath (for cleaning).

Next, install the back wall made of plywood. It should be lower than the front one. It is also advisable to make the side walls of plywood. In a double cage, a hay barn is set up in the middle. And the front wall can be made of mesh, with a door. If the cage will always be located outside, then it is worth taking care of an insulated compartment for sleeping. Sloping roof covered with slate.

What do we place inside the cage?

The internal contents of the cell may vary. It depends on who will live in it. So, for a female rabbit with babies, it is necessary to arrange special queen cells and nesting compartments. When keeping young animals in groups, warm nesting rooms will also be needed. Often special indoor enclosures for walking are set up for them. Each cage must have bunkers, drinking bowls, feeders, and hay barns.

It is advisable to place the feeder and drinker outside the cage so that the rabbit cannot chew them.

Choosing a place to install the cage

Before you begin construction, it is important to decide on the placement of the cage. This should be a comfortable place, protected from draft winds. You should not install a rabbit house on the south side, because in summer the animals will suffer from the heat. It is necessary to strictly observe the size of the cage, depending on the breed and number of rabbits. For ease of cleaning, the cages have a removable roof.

If the animals will live outside all year round, then it is better to make the floor from wood in the form of a retractable tray. And then stuff the sheathing of slats on top. Feeders and drinkers can be removable. The walls and ceiling are insulated with foam plastic, and a heated floor is installed in the uterine compartment.

We offer video instructions for viewing that will help you build cages for rabbits with your own hands.

Rabbit breeders rarely buy ready-made factory cages. In the manufacture of the latter today much attention is paid aesthetic side premises for rabbits: such products are beautiful and original, but they are expensive and do not always meet maintenance standards. It is much more economical to make housing for rabbits from available materials with your own hands. This is within the capabilities of many animal breeders.

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Outdoor cages

The external cage system for keeping rabbits is considered the most profitable and most appropriate to their physiology.

Cells can be produced from any building materials:

• brick;
• building blocks;
• boards and timber from any wood;
• metal mesh and die cutting;
• slate and roofing felt.

Beautiful and original designs for keeping rabbits



Classic double design



Double cage with permanent queen cell

The manger for roughage is hung outside, and the feeder and drinking bowl are placed inside. Sometimes a hole is constructed into a paddock surrounded by a metal mesh.



Option 1: with a permanent queen cell

The most common design for breeding rabbits at home is a cage for two rabbits, developed by scientists from the Institute of Fur and Rabbit Breeding almost 70 years ago.

Main dimensions:

• length 200 cm;
• width 65 cm;
• height of the facade wall 55 cm;
• rear wall height 40 cm.

The structure is installed on wooden supports at a height of 80 cm, this is the optimal size for convenient handling of animals. For breeding large breeds, it is permissible to increase the width and height by 5-10 cm, and the length by 50 cm.

The nesting department is set up permanently. Primary requirements:

• plank or plywood floor;
• front length 40 cm;
• the width of the queen cell is equal to the width of the cell;
• manhole 20 cm high and 17 cm wide;
• the presence of an external door for monitoring the offspring.

The cage is separated by a hay manger made of two frames covered with a mesh with a mesh size of 35x35 mm. Mesh doors are installed on both sides of the aft compartments. Feeders and drinking bowls are mounted and removable.



Option 2: insert queen cells

The difference between cells with an inserted queen cell is that it is used as needed. The dimensions of the portable nest compartment are 40x30x20 cm, it is made of plywood. When installing it, the queen rabbit appears extra bed rest at the top of the insert drawer.

The absence of a permanent nesting compartment allows you to slightly reduce the size of the house for rabbits:

• length 142 cm;
• width 70 cm;
• height of the front and back walls: 79 and 56 cm.

A design of this type is called Klenovo-Chegodaevsky. When the cages are not occupied by adult rabbits, they can contain young animals of 3-4 heads per place.



Insert queen cell

Need for building materials

The consumption of building materials for one double cage is:

• board, timber - 0.2 cubic meters. m;
• metal mesh for the floor with a cell 18x18 mm - 1.3 sq. m;
• mesh for walls with a cell of 35x35 mm - 0.6 sq. m.



Exterior view of a double cage

Group cages for young animals

The area requirement or planting density of young animals, sorted by age and sex, is 0.25 square meters. m per head, optimal joint keeping is up to 10 rabbits. Based on these figures, simple group dwellings are built. They can stretch up to 7 meters in length; groups are separated only by partitions in a common long cage.

The structure has a shelter 70 cm wide and a mesh run 1 meter wide. Single-tier structures are grouped into blocks for ease of maintenance.

In the south, housing for rabbits is installed with a facade facing west to avoid heat strokes in animals.

Roof and additional tiers

The roof of the cages is made of boards with a front overlap of 25-30 cm and a rear overlap of up to 20 cm.

The insulating roofing covering can be anything: profile, slate, roofing felt or other materials. But it is better to cover structures for keeping rabbits natural materials, for example, reed or straw mats.

tiers

If you build a plank roof without a slope, and install another cage similar to the first one on top of it, you will get a two-tier structure. This optimal solution if there is not enough territory to arrange cages on one floor, but on the condition that a metal or plastic tray for collecting feces is installed under the bottom of the top one.

Three-tier and multi-tiered structures. But in this case, difficulties may arise with servicing the upper cells.



Two-tier cages under a canopy

8 Basic Steps to Making a Cage

A detailed guide to making a house for rabbits, with all the variety of options for structures and methods of their construction, is based on one diagram.



Diagram of a classic double cage

Step-by-step instructions for making a cage:

1. 1. A drawing is drawn up or a standard version of the cell is taken.
2. 2. A place for the rabbitry is determined, on which, according to the dimensions in the plan, supports from wooden (brick, stone, block, metal) pillars are installed.
3. 3. The reference points are connected (connected) to each other by wooden beams in a single plane at the same mark.
4. 4. On a flat, large table set strictly horizontally, a strong frame frame for the floor of the future cage is assembled (from timber with a cross-section of at least 50x50 mm).
5. 5. A mesh for the floor is attached to the frame or boards are filled in the case of solid floors for the queen cell.
6. 6. The frame frames of the side and rear walls are assembled one by one with the simultaneous strengthening of a metal mesh on them, the required number of doors to the aft and uterine compartments, and, if necessary, continuous cladding of the rear walls is performed.
7. 7. The roofing board is assembled from boards.
8. 8. Starting with the floor frame, all manufactured parts of the floor, walls and roof are assembled into a single structure, which is fixed on supports.



Cage frame

You should not nail or add anything to a cage already installed on supports unless necessary: ​​everything must be taken into account before installing the structure on supports. Otherwise, it will become unreliable and short-lived.

Using this plan, you can build homemade rabbit houses of any type from various materials.

Non-standard solutions and ideas for making cells

Rabbit breeding is considered a fast-paying and highly profitable business with skillful organization of a rabbit farm, even on a small plot and with insignificant start-up investments. A novice rabbit breeder can use new models and original ideas in technologies for arranging housing for animals, despite the fact that they solve only local problems.

Zolotukhin method

Professional rabbit breeders do not find anything particularly revolutionary in Zolotukhin’s method, but there are still original ideas. The main postulates of an experienced rabbit breeder, based on practice and long-term observation of animals:

• the floor should be solid, not mesh, and designed with a slope towards the drainage of feces, which will prevent pododermatitis in rabbits;
• only at the back wall there should be a small section of mesh floor;
• shifting the 2nd tier a short distance towards the feces drainage will ensure the normal sanitary condition of the lower row;
• the displacement of the 3rd tier relative to the second will ensure cleanliness in the second and so on.

Cell design according to Mikhailov

Academician Mikhailov’s method called “accelerated rabbit breeding” is aimed at creating the most comfortable and ideal conditions in terms of sanitation for raising rabbits. This goal is inherent in the design of the rabbit house, which is quite difficult to make on your own.

Application of the Mikhailov system gives good result. But the price of cells of this design is too high, and the payback period for investments is quite long.



Housing for rabbits according to Mikhailov

The cheapest options

These include designs fast production and durable, made entirely of metal mesh. But street keeping of animals in mesh houses on fresh air impossible in the Russian climate. Therefore, when using such cages, a room is required, and this may not be affordable for the rabbit breeder.

Create conditions for raising these animals that are identical to their natural natural habitat, It's hard enough. But developments in this direction are already underway.

Breeding rabbits in households can be profitable, as well as result in complete losses. Rabbits actively breed, grow quickly, eat green food, and their meat and skins are expensive - and this brings considerable profit to the breeder. However, they are capricious in maintenance and subject to high mortality. Therefore, the construction of a rabbitry should be given the closest attention. We will tell you how to create a rabbitry with your own hands in this article.

The word "rabbit" has a double meaning. This is the name given to the room where rabbit enclosures are located, as well as cages placed together and mini-farms located on the street.

Most often, rabbit farms are heated and lit rooms with good ventilation, where cages are located in tiers. In regions with a mild climate, open rabbitries are more often used, which are a structure of two or three walls covered with a canopy.

Rabbit farm - inside view

A good rabbitry must meet the following requirements:

• create comfortable conditions for living and breeding of animals;
• be easy to use for a person of average height and build;
• have a well-thought-out system for removing waste from cells and their subsequent disposal.

Buildings for rabbitry are made one-story and rectangular. They are built in accordance with GOST 23838.

In practice, cages with these animals can be placed in a frame-type barn.

Common designs and their features

A standard indoor rabbitry is an enclosed room equipped with lighting, ventilation and heating systems, and, less commonly, a water supply system. There are cages in long rows, usually in three tiers. There are passages between them, optimal width which is equal to 1.5 m. Often part of the rabbitry is separated for technical rooms and feed storage.

Multi-tiered mini-farms

Rabbit hutch in a hole

This is one of the most controversial decisions; there are approximately equal numbers of supporters and opponents of this design.

An example of “pit” rabbit keeping

Pros of “pit” content:

• life in burrows is natural for rabbits;
• in the pits a microclimate, humidity and temperature that is normal for rabbits is naturally formed;
• animals breed all year round;
• good litter survival;
• animals get sick less often and gain weight better;
• feed is given to all animals at once, this saves time and effort.

Disadvantages of “pit” content:

• it is impossible to regulate mating;
• it is difficult to monitor the condition of individual individuals;
• difficult to catch animals;
• there is a possibility that the rabbits will dig under the walls and escape.

Example No. 1 of keeping rabbits in pits
Example No. 2 of keeping rabbits in pits
Example No. 3 of keeping rabbits in pits

For pit housing in a rabbitry, a hole 1 to 2 meters deep is dug around the entire perimeter. The floor and walls are concreted to prevent escapes. The resulting hole is filled with sand approximately 20 cm thick, on which a net is laid for easy cleaning. Feeders and drinking bowls are placed inside, and you can let rabbits in.

According to a number of farmers, pit housing is the best option, as it is as close as possible to natural conditions residence of rabbits. It is believed that the characteristics of meat from rabbits living underground are much better. However, despite all the advantages, organizing such housing is associated with a number of difficulties. dealing with rabbits in pits in .

All-season option with insulated compartments

The climate of Russia is such that in most of its territory the winter is too cold for keeping rodents outdoors or in uninsulated rooms. Therefore, to successfully keep rabbits, you need to think about insulation. There are two options here, and to achieve the best result they must be combined. Either heat the rabbitry or insulate the compartments themselves in which the animals are kept.

The temperature in the place where they are kept should not fall below -5. The ideal range for this time of year is considered to be from +5 to +15-20 degrees. Approaching the upper threshold of the specified range is most desirable; in warm conditions, rabbits reproduce well and gain weight. This will help prevent seasonal “breaks” in this type of business.

In the queen cell, the temperature should not fall below 10 degrees, otherwise the rabbits may die, or, under the best circumstances, they will lag significantly behind in development, and the farmer will spend more on maintaining the young than he will ultimately make a profit. It must be taken into account that rabbits are born naked and are very sensitive to cold. Although the female herself takes care of heating the cubs and insulating the nest, both mole rats, and rabbits that have already grown up and have grown fur - low temperatures, everything is exactly harmful. Systematic freezing leads to slow growth and poor weight gain, as well as decreased immunity.

Russian rabbit breeders came up with an original way to insulate compartments. A “pocket” made of thick plywood is attached to the bottom of the compartment, into which an EG-1 (or other) electric heating pad is placed. Using a transformer, if necessary, the heating pad is switched to a reduced mode, thereby heating the floor of the cage.

Basic principles to follow when setting up a rabbitry

Regardless of the chosen design of the rabbitry and cages, there are certain sanitary and hygienic standards that must be observed. In particular, there are certain standards for lighting, temperature and ventilation of cells. When creating a rabbitry, they must be adhered to.

Types and sizes of cells

From the description of large structures, let's move on to small ones, that is, to cells. They can be used either autonomously, to keep one or two animals separately from the rest, or stand in a barn-type rabbitry or be part of a collapsible mini-farm complex.

There are a lot of options for rabbit cages. But they can all be divided into three conditional groups, depending on their purpose.

Queen cells

These are specially designed cages where female rabbits are placed for lambing. There she gives birth and lives with the cubs until they reach twenty days of age.

A distinctive feature is the presence of a nest. It is a box made from scrap materials, such as plywood, and has dimensions of 40 cm x 40 cm x 30 cm.

Rules for building a nest:

• it is necessary to cut a hole in the nest at a height of at least 10 cm. This is done so that rabbits that are too small cannot get out of the nest;
• the floor in the queen cell should only be solid;
• the plywood from which the nest is made rots from the secretions of the animals, so it is necessary to lay a piece of waterproof material on the bottom, for example, a sheet of stainless steel, and on top - a thick layer of straw;
• the lid is made so that it can be raised and lowered (it is best to place it on furniture hinges);
• if the queen cell will be standing outside or in a cold room in winter, you need to take care of heating (you can use a cheap and proven heating method: an infrared lamp placed in a special compartment).

Two-section cage with hay for adults

This type of design is good for housing two adult animals. At positive temperatures it is permissible to display it outdoors; at sub-zero temperatures it is recommended to use it indoors, including heated ones.

A two-section cage is a wooden box 1.4 - 2 m long, 0.5 to 0.7 m high and 0.5-0.7 m wide. The top, bottom, side and rear walls are made solid. It is best to use structures made of sanded, unpainted boards knocked down without cracks for this purpose, but other solutions are also possible, for example, from fine mesh or tin. In the last two cases, it is worth taking care of a rigid, strong frame that will support the entire structure.

Drinkers and feeders are placed along the edges, so that animals cannot climb into them with their paws.

Two-section cages can also be made multi-tiered. This will help to use the rabbitry area more efficiently.

Video - DIY two-section cage

Cage with nest

This option is a little more complicated to make, but allows the rabbit to lead a more natural lifestyle. In this case, the cell is divided into two compartments with a hole between them. The smaller compartment is insulated with hay and serves as a nest.

Group cells

Enclosures for young animals 3-6 months old, also called group cages. Animals can be either different-sex or same-sex. Please note that uncastrated males may begin to show aggression towards each other early, in which case they must be placed in individual compartments. The typical dimensions of this cage are 120 by 50 by 40 cm.

How to create a blueprint for a rabbitry

Of course, you can make a drawing of an individual cage or a whole rabbitry yourself, or simply adjust any of the above options to your size. Main parameter What you need to know is the number of rabbits that you plan to keep in the cage.

• One young animal requires a minimum of 0.1-0.2 m2. For a comfortable stay, this norm should be increased to 0.5 m2. Males that are planned to be allowed to breed need 2 times more space.
• An adult animal needs at least half a meter free space. Ideally, a meter to be able to move fully.
• For large breed rabbits, these standards need to be increased. The dimensions should be such that the animal can freely stretch out to its full length along the cage without resting its body against the walls, and can sit without touching the lid with its ears.
• The queen cell must have a separate nest. His standard sizes- 40 cm x 40 cm x 30 cm.

When the dimensions are determined, you can begin the drawing. You should start by drawing out the top view: draw a rectangle of the required dimensions, if necessary, divide it into sections. Then, all elements are indicated on the drawing: partitions, doors, manholes, feeders, etc. Dimensions are indicated everywhere. Based on the top view, a side view is drawn. The imaginary cut should pass through the most technologically complex section, for example, along the nest of the queen cell. The sizes must match. You can draw the view from below, paying particular attention to the legs and support structure.

Nuances in making a rabbitry

If this is your first time building a cage, here are a few tips that will come in handy. They are not obvious to new farmers and will help to avoid mistakes.

Watching a video, where you can personally observe the construction process by professionals, also helps to avoid mistakes.

Video - Step-by-step construction of a cage for rabbits

Tools and materials

To build a rabbitry you don’t need anything particularly rare or expensive. As for the tools, a regular construction kit is sufficient. Having a welding machine will be a plus.

Prices for popular models of jigsaws

Jigsaw

Usually, clapboard, timber or ordinary boards are used for construction. It’s just not recommended to use them; rabbits chew through the wood. Therefore, it is combined with the following materials:

Let's look at what materials the parts for creating cells are made from.

• Frame. It is made from wooden blocks.
• Side and back walls. They are made from thick boards. There are recommendations to make walls from plywood, but this should not be done. Plywood is less durable, it warps from moisture, delaminates and bubbles, and, most importantly, rabbits quickly chew through it.
• Front wall. Made from fine mesh. Iron mesh can only be used if it is painted or coated, otherwise it will rust.

• Floor. It is made of fine mesh or boards stuffed in parallel.
• Roof. Made from wood, roofing felt, slate. But corrugated sheeting can be used exclusively for covering cages standing under a canopy or indoors - it gets very hot in the sun.

How to choose a place

Regardless of whether you want to build a building, a mini-farm, or just put a few cages under a canopy, you need to start by choosing a suitable location.

Adopted in the Russian Federation building codes allowed to build on personal plot outbuilding with an area of ​​15 sq. m. and a building for keeping farm animals or poultry with an area of ​​40 square meters. m. The residential building must be located at a distance of at least 15 m from the two above-mentioned buildings.

Additionally, you need to take care of the following:

Even if there is no place on your personal plot that fully satisfies all these conditions, try to get as close to the ideal as possible. Minor discrepancies are not critical.

Prices for various types of timber

Step-by-step instructions for creating a rabbitry for beginners

At first glance, it seems that such a structure is very difficult to build on your own, but this is just an illusion. Even for a delitant it is quite possible to make a rabbitry on your own, spending from several hours to several days on it.

If you decide to build a rabbitry with your own hands, the algorithm of actions should be as follows.

Step 1. Using the tips above, choose a place for the future rabbitry, decide on its size, layout, and material for construction.

Step 2. Build the cage frame according to the dimensions in the drawing. It can be wooden or metal. If several cells stand side by side, the frame should be solid.

Step 3. Using a carpenter's square and level, attach the shelf and upper frame to the frame;

Step 4. The bottom and lid are assembled on a frame made of wooden beams or cut separately from thick plywood. In the latter case, it is necessary to cut holes for the legs at the corners.

Step 5. The bottom and lid are attached to the frame.

Step 6. A mesh is nailed to the door. Attach it to the frame with furniture dowels.

We nail the frame, which will later contain the mesh.

Shchag 7. Cover the sides of the cage with mesh or boards. The mesh is cut with metal scissors and placed on the screws with a screwdriver.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

Watching a video of the manufacturing process will also help with construction.

Video - Do-it-yourself rabbit cage from professionals

This video shows in detail all stages of construction, gives useful tips for beginners.

As you can see from the article, making a rabbitry with your own hands is quite possible even for a beginner. You just need to strictly follow the advice, and everything will work out.