The operating conditions of the bath are different from those that most buildings have to face. Therefore, the issue of high-quality vapor and thermal insulation should be given special attention. Consider how to insulate the ceiling, floor, walls in the bath and what technology to prefer in order to create a suitable microclimate and minimize heat loss, saving your own efforts and resources.

A bathhouse is a room that is periodically heated in order to adopt wellness procedures. Inside the room, a special microclimate is formed, characterized by high temperature and humidity. Of course, this cannot but have an impact on those building materials that have to be exposed to such an impact.

In addition, one has to take into account the costs associated with the use of a particular amount of fuel. If the building is prone to rapid cooling, a large amount of fuel will be required to maintain the appropriate temperature. And given the fact that, according to the laws of physics, warm air is lighter than cold air, it is the roof of the bathhouse that requires insulation, through which a significant loss of heat occurs.

But on the way to building a barrier to keep warm air indoors, there is another aspect that all bath owners should pay special attention to. High humidity becomes a source of a large amount of condensate, which, if the roof is not properly insulated, can accumulate. Often this causes the destruction of the wooden elements of the structure.

Interesting fact! High humidity is a favorable environment for the growth and development of various microorganisms: fungi, mold and bacteria. Ill-conceived steam and thermal insulation can cause their appearance and reproduction.

Insulation of the ceiling in a bath with a cold roof, depending on the characteristics of the roof

The bath roof can be represented by one of two types: having attic space and without it. In the first case, the layer of air itself creates a fairly effective barrier, which has a positive effect on the building's ability to retain heat. But this does not mean at all that the presence of an attic completely eliminates the need for insulation work.

If the bath does not provide for an attic or attic, then high-quality thermal insulation is an almost indispensable condition for the further use of the building for its intended purpose.

Regardless of what type of room you have to deal with, the first and extremely important step is to provide a vapor barrier layer. Available materials such as aluminum foil, high-density cardboard that is pre-impregnated with drying oil, or wax paper are perfect for this.

Before laying the heat-insulating layer, it is worth taking care of a reliable vapor barrier of the roof

Useful advice! If work is being done to insulate the ceiling in the bathhouse, where there is an attic room, then it is recommended to cover the ceiling boards from the side of the roof with a layer of clay of about 2-3 cm.

How to insulate the ceiling in the bath: the best thermal insulation materials

In the process of kindling the bath, the temperature and humidity in the room reaches extremely high levels. Therefore, special requirements are imposed on the building materials that are used in the process of arranging this room, namely, they must be resistant to such effects and at the same time not emit hazardous substances when heated.

In addition, it is not recommended that the weight of the insulation be too large. It is preferable to opt for a lightweight material that is simple and convenient both in transportation and installation. And of course, we must not forget about such a characteristic as fire resistance, which is important for such a room as a bath.

DIY bath ceiling insulation: advantages and disadvantages of mineral wool

Mineral wool is by far the most popular option among all. It is often used for warming not only baths and garages, but also for residential buildings. By itself, it is a fibrous material that has excellent thermal insulation characteristics and can be presented in one of three types:

• glass wool;
• stone wool;
• slag wool.

But if the first option is familiar to almost everyone, then the other two were not seen by everyone. Stone wool is a material derived primarily from basalt, although it is sometimes made from other rock melts. Slag wool is very similar to cinder blocks, for the production of which blast-furnace slags are used.

In addition to the fact that mineral wool has a low thermal conductivity, which allows it to be used for thermal insulation of ceilings and walls, it has another significant advantage. Unlike other materials, it cannot serve as a breeding ground for microorganisms: fungi, mold, small insects or rodents, which is very useful for summer cottages.

As for other characteristics, mineral wool is not prone to fire and does not react in any way to temperature changes: it does not deform or shrink. Light weight and convenient packaging (usually in the form of rolls or rectangular plates) make it easy and convenient to work with the material even alone.

Of course, this material also has disadvantages, which one way or another will have to be reckoned with:

• mineral wool is able to absorb moisture;
• it contains phenols, which can potentially pose a risk to human health.

Both of these shortcomings can be neutralized during the installation process, providing the insulation with high-quality vapor and waterproofing, completely eliminating the risk of mineral wool contact with air under the ceiling. This is especially true for warm and humid air, which is concentrated indoors.

Useful advice! Despite the fact that, subject to all the installation rules, mineral wool does not pose a real threat to health, during its installation it is necessary to be careful and use protective equipment, since its small fibers can irritate the skin and eyes.

Insulation of the ceiling in the bath with expanded clay: features of use

Expanded clay is small pebbles, which consist of clay and have a porous structure. If all factors are taken into account, then expanded clay can be called the most suitable material for insulating the ceiling in the bath. Of course, if the building provides attic space and there is the possibility of using it.

The advantages of this choice can be confidently attributed to the following aspects:

• expanded clay is completely safe: it does not support combustion, it is environmentally friendly and even in the event of a fire it will not emit hazardous substances into the atmosphere;
• over time, as well as under the influence of external factors, expanded clay does not deteriorate and does not decompose;
• the cost of the material is quite low;
• bacteria and fungi do not consider expanded clay an attractive environment for life.

In addition, expanded clay is superior to mineral wool in the ability not to absorb moisture. And although the need to equip vapor and waterproofing layers remains, the risk of moisture accumulation inside the insulation layer is much less. It should also be noted that the operational life of expanded clay is one of the longest when compared with other materials.

Is it worth it to insulate the ceiling from the inside with foam

At a certain period, foam plastic was the leader among heat-insulating materials that were used to insulate not only baths, but also residential buildings. But with the advent of alternative options, its significant shortcomings became noticeable. So, for example, in the event of a fire, foam plastic burns well, while also releasing toxic smoke that can harm human health.

In addition, the foam is not very resistant to external factors, collapsing under the influence of high temperatures, which is inevitable if it is used in a bath.

For these reasons, we can conclude that foam is far from the most suitable material for this purpose and it is better to give preference to another material that is more stable and suitable in terms of characteristics.

Using ecowool as a heater for a bath

Another material that is popular among heaters and is often used, including for baths and garages, is ecowool. This fibrous material is made from cellulose, adding special impurities to it, designed to provide protection against insects, bacteria and rodents. In addition, they make ecowool resistant to ignition.

Related article:

Video review of the technology for creating a bath with your own hands, the main stages of building a building, requirements and tips. Common types of baths.

The advantages of this material include environmental friendliness, as well as low weight and the ability to fill even the smallest cracks and gaps, which is very convenient when it comes to working with a not too flat surface. It does not emit any toxic substances, so, like expanded clay, it is completely safe for human health.

But there is also a significant drawback: the efficiency of using ecowool is directly related to the presence of ventilation, as well as a high-quality waterproofing layer, which is designed to remove moisture. This is due to the fact that ecowool itself is very prone to absorbing condensate, which negatively affects its thermal insulation characteristics.

There are two ways to apply this heat insulator to the walls, the so-called "dry" and "wet". The main difference and at the same time the complexity of the second option is the need to use special equipment for this, the rental of which will cause rather high prices for ceiling insulation in this way.

Warming the bath inside with a mixture of cement and sawdust

This method can certainly be called the oldest among all those described, since these materials were used for insulation long before such heat-insulating materials as polystyrene and mineral wool appeared on the market.

Interesting fact! Usually, cement and sawdust are used to create a suitable mixture. Although it is quite acceptable to replace these components with clay and straw.

First of all, a dry mixture is prepared, which includes sawdust, lime and cement in a ratio of 10/1/1, respectively. After mixing all the dry ingredients, 1.5 parts of water are added to them, pouring it in gradually and mixing thoroughly so that the solution is homogeneous. After that, it remains only to lay the mixture on the surface and level it to an even layer.

In case of compliance with all recommendations and technologies, as a result, you can get high-quality, environmentally friendly material. Although we have to admit that in terms of thermal insulation characteristics, it is still inferior to both mineral wool and even expanded clay. So, perhaps, its only advantage is its low cost, which, nevertheless, entails quite a lot of trouble.

Features of the arrangement of vapor barrier and waterproofing layers

The presence of a vapor barrier layer is not a whim, but a real necessity. Especially when it comes to rooms such as a bathhouse, where hot air is an integral part of using the room for its intended purpose. Rising in the form of steam, moisture can have a devastating effect on the insulation and contribute to the occurrence of mold and fungus on the wooden elements of the bath frame.

In order to avoid problems that may arise from the accumulation of moisture on the ceiling and walls, special films and coating materials are used, such as anti-condensation membranes. When choosing a suitable material, it is advisable to purchase one that has a foil layer.

Useful advice! In the process of installing a vapor barrier film, it is very important to pay attention to its integrity. It is necessary to prevent the appearance of gaps, as this will greatly affect the technical characteristics of the coating.

To ensure waterproofing, special films are used, which can be purchased at hardware stores. Sometimes the most ordinary polyethylene of sufficient density or cheap roofing material is used.

Do-it-yourself insulation of a floor ceiling: step by step instructions

A deck ceiling is a great option for buildings that are used seasonally and have a small area. But in this design there is not a lot of space for bulk insulation. In addition, such a ceiling is also unable to withstand a large weight. Therefore, the choice of material should be approached more responsibly.

In order to have enough space for laying the insulation, the deck ceiling should be placed slightly lower than the height of the walls. And after that, you can proceed to the phased work according to the following instructions:

1. First of all, it is necessary to lay a vapor barrier layer from the side of the attic. In this case, the side on which the foil is located should be facing down. The material is laid with an overlap of about 10-15 cm, and in order to ensure tightness, it is also necessary to glue the joints with adhesive tape.
2. The selected thermal insulation material is laid on top. In this case, mineral wool or expanded clay is best suited, since the floor ceiling is not designed for heavy loads.
3. A layer of waterproofing material is placed on top, which is suitable for roofing felt or plastic film. Laying must be overlapped, and the seams are carefully glued with adhesive tape.
4. The final layer should consist of sheets of plywood or boards, which will become a reliable protection for the previous layers.

This is a simple method that is relevant if you do not plan to spend too much money and time on it. If the bath area is large enough or you need to use a place under the roof for storage, then this option will not be very suitable because of its fragility. In this case, it is better to give preference to a false ceiling.

Do-it-yourself insulation of a false ceiling: step by step instructions

The design of the false ceiling provides for fastening to the upper part of the wall not the flooring itself, but the supporting beams, for which a wooden beam or several boards spliced ​​together are most often used. Above and below, a ceiling is attached to the beams, which simultaneously serves as the floor of the attic. Well, in the middle between the upper and lower layers, a layer of heat-insulating material is laid, as well as hydro and vapor barriers.

The installation process may differ slightly depending on which insulation was chosen, however, in general, the technology is preserved. In the case of using mineral wool for this purpose, the procedure is as follows:

• the first is a layer of waterproofing material, which is attached to the upper surface of the beams using a furniture stapler. As in all other cases, overlaps must be at least 10 cm, and the joints are additionally glued;

• boards or plywood are laid on top of the waterproofing, thus providing the structure with strength and reliability;
• mineral wool of suitable thickness is laid in the gaps between the beams based on the following standards: 150-180 mm for regions with a temperate climate, 200-250 mm for regions that are characterized by severe frosts. As with waterproofing material, the connection of two separate parts of the material must be overlapped;
• the vapor barrier film is attached to the floor beams from the underside. At the same time, it is highly recommended that its edges are attached to the top of the walls. Since this is a very delicate material, it is important to work with it carefully, avoiding damage and tears;
• perpendicular to the beams, wooden slats are attached over the vapor barrier material;
• the final stage is the fastening of the lining with self-tapping screws or nails to these rails.

Such an insulated ceiling is very durable and able to withstand heavy loads, so that the attic space can be used to equip the attic or as storage for various accessories.

Warming the ceiling of a bathhouse without an attic with your own hands: the nuances of work

The technology of warming a wooden or panel bath, in the case of the complete absence of an attic space, has some differences from those that were considered earlier. In this case, it is necessary to fix the vapor barrier material, and then attach the insulation itself. Already on it, the beam beam and the final layer - the ceiling boards - are fastened.

Particular attention should be paid to the junction of the insulation and the pipe. First of all, it is necessary to ensure compliance with fire safety standards. The distance provided for by the rules must be at least 200 mm. Naturally, it is impossible to simply leave a hole, and therefore a simple box is mounted, consisting of rafter legs. Its main role is the separation of insulation and pipes.

Useful advice! The inside of the box can also be filled with heat-insulating material. True, it must be fire-resistant and not succumb to high temperatures. For example, stone wool is suitable for this.

Another important task facing the owner involved in warming the ceiling of a bath without an attic is the complete elimination of the risk of condensation. Therefore, all vapor and waterproofing materials must be of high quality and fastened in strict accordance with the rules and regulations.

2 options for floor insulation in the bath with your own hands: instructions for use

Of course, when carrying out work on the insulation of a brick bath or a wooden building, laying heat-insulating material only on the ceiling will not be enough. Therefore, it is worth taking care that the room has a warm floor. Consider how the work is carried out depending on what materials you have to deal with.

Option 1. Warming the wooden floor in the bath

In order to make the floor in the bath warmer and reduce heat loss, the same materials are used as in the case of ceiling installation. Often, the method of warming the floor in the bath with expanded clay, mineral wool, ecowool is used.

Useful advice! One of the most effective ways to keep the heat in the room is to install a bath on screw piles. In this case, floor insulation will not be required so urgently due to the presence of an additional air cushion under the building.

The insulation procedure begins with the dismantling of all elements that may interfere with the work. Skirting boards and floorboards are removed. After that, all remaining wooden elements are carefully examined and checked for damage. If they are found, the damaged elements are replaced with new ones. Be sure to carry out the treatment with antiseptics, which will protect against rodents, insects and fungi.

Using small bars, the lower edges of the log are built up to create a reliable support for the rough coating. Using cheap lumber, a rough coating is mounted, leaving gaps of about a centimeter between the lags and boards. The subfloor boards should not be laid too tightly, as when the air humidity increases, the wood tends to expand, which can lead to deformation of the coating if the laying is too dense.

It is imperative to lay a vapor barrier layer, especially if the ground levels are located in close proximity to the surface. The vapor barrier must cover the entire surface, including the logs. If the groundwater is high, then glassine or roofing material is best suited, and for a low groundwater level, a vapor barrier membrane.

The fastening of the material for vapor barrier must be carried out in such a way that it also captures the lower edges of the wall, by about 15 cm. It is most convenient to fasten the material to the logs using a construction stapler, gluing each joint with adhesive tape.

The heat insulator is laid between the lags in such a way that approximately 2 cm of air cushion remains on top. This will provide natural ventilation.

Useful advice! If the thickness of the heat insulator is so large that it is impossible to leave free space, then a crate can be placed on top of the material in increments of about 40 cm.

To eliminate the risk of moisture ingress, another waterproofing layer is placed on top. It is most preferable to use a membrane material for this purpose. If there is a need to install a crate, then the membrane must be laid under it. Finally, floorboards and skirting boards are attached. All protruding edges of materials are trimmed.

Option 2. Description of the technology for insulating the concrete floor with polystyrene foam

The procedure for warming the concrete floor in the bath is carried out somewhat differently. You need to do this after completing the draft work:

1. A layer of waterproofing material is laid on top of the rough screed. Unlike a wooden floor, in this case, the use of ordinary high-strength polyethylene is allowed. At the same time, the approach to the walls must be at least 5 cm. The material is laid on the surface, and the excess is cut off. If the polyethylene was originally in a roll, its parts must be overlapped by 10 cm, sealing the joints with adhesive tape.
2. After that, heat-insulating material is laid. Expanded polystyrene is best suited for this, since it has all the characteristics necessary for this. To attach the sheets to the surface, you can use special glue and screws, and in some cases make a crate.
3. A reinforcing mesh is laid on top and another screed is made, the thickness of which must be at least 2 cm.
4. When the reinforcing screed is completely dry, you can start leveling the floor. For this, special self-leveling compounds are commercially available. It is only important that its layer is at least 5-8 cm above the level of insulation.

Useful advice! In the process of pouring, be sure to level the mixture with a needle roller. This will get rid of excess air bubbles and make the coating as even and smooth as possible.

Insulation of the bath outside and inside: features of thermal insulation of walls

The first thing you should pay attention to when planning the work on warming the walls of the bath - from the inside or outside, you want to place a heat-insulating layer. Both options are acceptable, however, the first one is used extremely rarely for a number of reasons:

• insulation from the inside of garages, baths and modest houses is an irrational use of the small space that is available. Obviously, laying all the necessary layers will reduce the room, which in some cases is not ergonomic;
• the humidity in the bath is so high that even if all the necessary conditions are met and the installation of vapor and heat-insulating layers, it is almost impossible to guarantee that the heat insulator will not be exposed to moisture sooner or later;
• warming the walls in the bath from the inside with your own hands allows you to keep warm inside the room, but is not able to protect the walls from freezing from the outside. This temperature difference often adversely affects the condition of the building.

Consider the features of wall insulation, depending on the material that was used to build the building.

Features of insulation in a wooden bath: a steam room from a log house

At first glance, it may seem that log buildings do not need much thermal insulation, since the wall looks quite airtight, and the wood does a good job of keeping warm. But in fact, the problem lies in the fact that the timber is highly susceptible to shrinkage and cracks form over time. They are the main sources of cold.

The most effective way to close up the gaps that are formed is to lay out the insulation between the logs at the construction stage. Then, with the help of a hammer and caulking, all the remaining, even the smallest cracks, are clogged and treated with a sealant.

Interesting fact! To this day, fans of environmentally friendly materials continue to use plants such as moss or cuckoo flax to fill gaps in the walls.

Thermal insulation occurs even at the construction stage, when interventional insulation is laid between the logs

Do-it-yourself warming of the bath from the inside: brick, block and frame buildings

Perhaps one of the most time-consuming processes is the insulation from the inside of a bathhouse made of expanded clay concrete blocks, bricks or other materials to which it is not so easy to attach, and you also have to carefully choose the material, taking into account its weight and size.

For example, if we are talking about the insulation of a frame structure that is not able to withstand serious loads, it is simply impossible to do without careful preliminary calculations. As an expensive, but ideal option for this purpose, spraying can be considered. This method can be used both for insulating a foam block bath from the inside, and for buildings made of almost any material.

In some cases, extruded polystyrene foam boards are used. For internal insulation, this is not a very suitable option, since it takes up a significant amount of space, but for external cladding there is no better solution.

Useful advice! Insulation by polyurethane foam spraying must be carried out by professionals and in compliance with all technological requirements and standards. Also, the availability of high-quality specialized equipment is required.

Insulation of a block brick bath inside: video instruction

There are many different ways to insulate the floor, ceiling and walls of the bath, using various materials and technologies for this. You can learn more about one of these methods by reading the detailed video instructions for insulating a brick wall from the inside. In addition, this technology can be used not only for baths. According to this instruction, you can also carry out the insulation of the garage from the inside with your own hands.

The only thing worse than not having a bath is a cold bath. Those who do not want to face such a problem in the future think about warming in advance. This will significantly reduce the consumption of firewood. Before you insulate the ceiling in the bath, you need to choose the material suitable for this and carefully study the technology.

When the ceiling of the bath needs insulation

The laws of physics state that warm air is lighter than cold air, which means it tends to rise. The ceiling, on the other hand, restricts this movement, causing it to accumulate in the upper part of the room. Further, much depends on the thermal conductivity of the ceiling itself. If it is not insulated with anything, it causes a loss of 20% of heat. It is quite possible that this is not a problem for a summer sauna with a full firewood. In all other cases, it is worth taking care of reducing heat loss and insulating the ceiling with your own hands.

Insulation will also come in handy for those who do not want to spend the whole day on the firebox, because the ladle is easier to fill if it does not leak. It's the same with heat.

Which method to choose for warming inside and outside the room

The choice of insulation method is influenced by what is above the ceiling - a cold attic, a residential attic or a flat roof with a small slope, which leaves a minimum attic space. In total, there are only three methods for arranging the ceiling:

• grazing;
• hemmed;
• panel.

Flat ceiling with expanded clay insulation, clay and sawdust

For those who have an attic, but do not want to equip it in a warm warehouse or recreation room, the design of the flooring is suitable. It is considered the simplest, since it is not supposed to walk in the attic, which means that there is no need even for floor beams. The draft ceiling is placed on the piping of the building, that is, directly on the walls.

Important! There are limitations associated with this. The boards will withstand a layer of insulation if their length is no more than 2.5 m with a board thickness of 4–5 cm.

Different materials can be used, but the structure of the "pie" is the same in any case. It consists of layers (from top to bottom):

• insulation;
• wax paper;
• boards;
• vapor barrier;
• clean ceiling.

The vapor barrier material must not only be hydrophobic, but also withstand high temperatures, so its choice is limited. Most often, foil is used as a vapor barrier. The last layer is made of expanded clay (slag) or clay with straw.

In the first case, expanded clay is poured on a layer of waxed paper (so that it does not wake up through the cracks) with a layer of 20 to 30 cm. This thickness is enough to show the thermal insulation properties of this material. Fractions of expanded clay should be taken different, so that small ones fill the voids between large ones.

Often, before filling, divider boards are stuffed onto the draft ceiling from the side of the attic.

In the second case, the clay is soaked, and then straw or sawdust is added to it. There is another way. First, a layer of clay of 5 cm is laid, which is allowed to stand for 4 days. Then the cracks are smeared with fresh mortar, and a layer of 10 cm oak leaves is placed on top. Then clay again, but already dry (5 cm).

From the side of the bathhouse, a vapor barrier is attached to the draft ceiling, which is sealed with metal tape. Next, a crate is made, leaving a ventilation gap, on top of which a finished ceiling is mounted, for example, from a lining.

Each of these heaters has one significant drawback: a lot of weight. The draft ceiling will cope with it only if the boards are thick and the span is small. The advantage can be considered the cheapness of the material. If desired, the same flooring ceiling can be insulated with mineral wool, and expanded polystyrene in combination with expanded clay, and ecowool, but their cost is much higher.

You will need:

• tools: stapler, saw, hammer;
• materials: boards, foil, waxed paper, metal tape, galvanized nails, expanded clay.

For a bath measuring 225 by 225 cm, with a layer of expanded clay 30 cm thick, the volume of material required is 1.5 m 3.

Video: how to insulate the ceiling with expanded clay with your own hands

The sequence of arranging a false ceiling with a vapor barrier

This is a more complex design, suitable for those who want to build a second floor in the future. If you plan to walk in the attic, put furniture there, then you need to mount floor beams. On them, a hemmed ceiling is made.

You will need:

• tools: construction stapler, hammer, saw, knife, tape measure, mallet;
• materials: beams, foil, metal tape, galvanized nails, lathing slats, grooved board or lining, insulation, edged boards, membrane or film

To calculate the material, you need to know the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling, which is divided by the standard dimensions of the slab or roll of insulation. If it is bulk, then its volume is calculated: the height of the embankment, which depends on the climatic zone, is multiplied by the area. For instance:

• room length - 380 cm;
• width - 350 cm;
• the height of the bulk insulation layer is 20 cm.

The volume is 380x350x20 \u003d 2.66 m 3.

The ceiling scheme is as follows (from top to bottom):

However, the work is carried out in a different order. The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. First of all, floor beams are placed on the strapping of the walls.
2. Then they are hemmed with a layer of vapor barrier from below. Usually foil, a construction stapler and metal tape for sealing are used for this.
3. The vapor barrier is additionally nailed to the beams with slats to form a ventilation gap of 2–3 cm.
4. For finishing the ceiling, either a good quality grooved board or lining is taken.
5. After that, the work is moved to the attic, where insulation is laid between the beams on the vapor barrier. Most often, basalt wool is used for this.
6. Waterproofing is placed on top of the insulation. For a bath, the membrane is preferable to polyethylene, because the previous layer must get rid of condensate.
7. Everything is covered with a flooring of edged boards, which will become the basis of the floor. It is better not to use cement.
8. Attic floor finish.

Video: hemming construction technology

How to insulate a panel ceiling

The most complex version of the ceiling device, so it is rarely used in baths. For him, you need to make pallets in which the insulation will fit.

You will need:

• tools: saw, hammer, construction stapler, knife;
• materials: galvanized nails, foil, mineral wool, bars, boards (pair quantity).

A standard mineral wool mat for baths and saunas has dimensions of 60x100 cm with a thickness of 5 or 10 cm. The material is easily cut with a knife, and when laying it, it can be compressed a little so that it lies more tightly in the spacer. The length of the "pallet" corresponds to the length of the room, the width of its inner part is 50 cm.

Knowing the length and width of the ceiling, for example, 360x360 cm, we can conclude that we will have to make 6 pallets 360 cm long. Each of them will fit 3.6 standard mats (60x100 cm). If the density of the mineral wool is high, it will not be possible to compress it strongly, so the trimmings will go into the “pockets”.

To insulate a panel ceiling measuring 360x360 cm, you will need 22 standard mineral wool mats.

Thermal insulation materials deserve special consideration. The fact is that not everyone is suitable for a bath. This is due to the increased temperature and humidity in its premises. The steam room is especially demanding on the material of the insulation. It should be:

• non-flammable, does not emit a lot of smoke during a fire;
• withstand temperatures over 100 degrees;
• absorbing little water;
• does not emit toxic substances into the air in any condition.

There is no ideal material, each has its advantages and disadvantages.

All work takes place in several stages:

1. First, on any flat surface (for example, on plywood), a structure is made from new bars and boards 60 cm long.
2. The bars are located at a distance of 50 cm from each other, the boards are nailed with 4 nails perpendicularly. In this case, you need to indent 5 cm from the edge.
3. As a result of the work, a shield is obtained in which the vapor barrier is laid. It, in turn, needs to be fixed with a stapler. It remains only to strengthen the shield with temporary braces that make it easier to carry, and raise it up.
4. At the top, the shields are placed end-to-end with protruding boards. Due to this, additional voids for insulation are formed.
5. The walls of the bath are the supports for the shields, so they should be the same in length. Insulation (mineral wool or glass wool) is placed inside the shields with vapor barrier. "Pockets" are also insulated. After that, flooring boards are nailed across the shields, on top of which a finishing floor is made.

A panel ceiling is an alternative to a hemmed one, since both are used in two-story baths. The owner is free to choose between the laboriousness of the panel and the financial cost of the hemmed one.

For the installation of a panel ceiling in the bath, it is undesirable to use plastic lining, polystyrene foam and plastic film.

It is difficult to name the best heater. Most often, basalt wool is used for arranging a bath.

Table: advantages and disadvantages of various heaters

Insulation name	Scope in the bath	Advantages	Flaws
Sawdust	Ceiling insulation.	Cheap.	Combustible and flammable.
Expanded clay	Insulation of horizontal surfaces - floor and flooring.	Cheap, easy to install, durable.	Needs increased stability of the foundation and walls of the bath. In some areas, expanded clay is produced with increased radiation. Needs moisture protection.
Styrofoam	Nowhere.	Cheap, lightweight, easy to install.	Combustible, emitting a lot of smoke with harmful substances. Easily spoiled.
Styrofoam	One of the layers of thermal insulation of the floor or ceiling (can be placed on top of expanded clay).	There are varieties that can withstand high temperatures. Doesn't get wet, insulates well. It has a small thickness with low thermal conductivity.	Needs leveling of surfaces (this does not apply to expanded polystyrene in granules).
mineral wool	Everywhere.	Does not burn, withstands high temperatures, easy to install.	During installation and operation, it partially collapses and turns into dust, which is harmful to humans, so it can be used for insulation outside the premises. Needs hydro and vapor barrier.
Ecowool	Everywhere, but with the condition of reliable hydro and vapor barrier.	Does not burn and does not support combustion. Rodents do not like this material. Environmentally friendly.	Loses the properties of a heat insulator when moistened, caked during long-term operation.
Clay	Ceiling insulation.	Cheap, affordable, reliable. Non-flammable and environmentally friendly material.	The same requirements for increased structural stability as for expanded clay.
Growing aerated concrete	Uncharacteristic material for insulation.	It seals more than it insulates. 10–12 cm of aerated concrete corresponds to a layer of expanded clay of 30 cm.	Difficulties will cause the reconstruction of the ceiling. Needs formwork made of glass-magnesium sheets.

Insulation of the ceiling must be carried out even during the construction of the bath. And you can do it yourself, if you carefully study the installation technology of various heat-insulating materials.

Every person, without exception, sometimes wants to take a steam bath or relax in the sauna. Lucky is the one who has his own bathhouse on the site, especially if it is dry there, there are no drafts, it smells like wood. To make it comfortable to carry out all bath procedures in the steam room, you need insulated walls, floor and ceiling. This will help create a pleasant atmosphere and keep warm for a long time.

The need to insulate the ceiling in the bath

Everyone knows from the school desk that hot steam and warm air rise up. This leads to the fact that the bath floors will periodically get wet from the effects of condensate, and subsequently they will rot and collapse. As for the waiting room, it is usually always cold and damp there, as a result of which mold and fungus appear in this place. Therefore, before insulating the ceiling in the bath, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the basic technologies for arranging. It is advisable to think about which insulation is right for you, because well-thought-out thermal insulation is the absence of dampness and cold now and other problems in the future.

When constructing a bath, the ceiling must be insulated so that the heat in the steam room remains long enough, and condensate does not accumulate and does not fall in large drops on people. Agree, it brings a lot of discomfort and does not add comfort.

It is not recommended to impregnate wood with chemicals that protect it from decay and the spread of fungus, because then you will have to breathe these fumes during bath procedures. It is necessary to protect the natural material from moisture on it with the help of various insulating agents.

Ceiling insulation should be based on three basic principles:

Ensuring the accumulation of steam;

Protection of the attic from moisture (if any, of course);

Prevention of formation and accumulation of condensate.

The ideal option for insulating the ceiling of a bath is the so-called “layer cake”, which consists of three parts: a waterproofing layer, mineral wool, and aluminum foil.

Materials that are better not to use for ceiling insulation

A bathing ceiling that meets all the requirements must be made of high-quality and appropriate materials for the purpose, and far from everyone will be suitable for a heater in a bath.

The ceiling should not be made of plastic, fiberboard or plywood. The first material accumulates condensate. As for the plywood ceiling and fiberboard, under the influence of moisture, these materials swell and, accordingly, deform. And if they are painted or proliferated, then under the influence of high temperatures toxic substances will be released, which is unsafe for humans.

Bath ceiling installation

In order to be able to comfortably spend time in the steam room, it is necessary to insulate all surfaces so that the heat does not go anywhere. Before we insulate the ceiling in the bath, first let's get acquainted with its design. It can be either separate or combined with an attic. The ceilings of log or panel baths have a similar design. Their device includes: vapor barrier, hemming ceiling material (for example, boards), beams, insulation and rolling sheathing.

The ceiling in the bath without an attic has some differences and requires additional work. Usually, the top of the lining is coated with clay up to 2 cm thick. Then backfilling is made, for example, from wood chips and cement mortar about 15 cm thick. With a sufficient thickness of the heat-insulating layer, condensate will not collect on the ceiling. When it appears, it is necessary to increase the layer of thermal insulation. The junctions with the chimney are treated with fire-retardant mastics and non-combustible asbestos materials.

Materials for warming the ceiling of the bath

Since ancient times, such natural substances as moss, clay, sawdust, straw, earth or slag have been used as insulating materials. To maintain room temperature, some try to insulate the ceiling of the bath with clay. She smeared all the cracks and fell asleep on top along with wood shavings or moss with earth. Such natural protection from the cold was durable and effective, but it is quite heavy and therefore requires a strong ceiling. Clay insulation, in addition to its natural qualities, is also good because it does not allow rodents and other pests to get divorced.

To date, there are various materials that greatly simplify the process of insulating the ceiling. How else can you insulate the ceiling of the bath, except for clay and straw? Stone or basalt wool, expanded clay, ecowool, penoizol, etc. are chosen as a protective material. Foam plastic is sometimes used. But it must be used with caution, since at high temperatures it releases toxic substances and, among other things, is a fire hazard. It is also not recommended to use glass wool as a heater. It requires special handling and serious protection of the skin, respiratory organs, which is almost impossible to organize at home.

Let us consider in more detail some types of insulation, because it is very difficult to answer the question of how best to insulate the ceiling of the bath.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool is a fiber made from rocks - basalt, limestone and dolomite. This insulation takes first place in popularity, due to its advantages. Here are some of them:

Durability;

Ease of absorption of moisture - hygroscopicity;

Fire resistance, high resistance to fire.

The thickness of the insulation can be 20-25 mm. By laying it on a vapor barrier, you will achieve the best result.

Expanded clay

As a heater for the ceiling of the bath, you can use expanded clay - a material that has good thermal insulation properties. But at the same time, it absorbs moisture very well, which is its main drawback. Now consider how to properly insulate the ceiling of the bath with expanded clay. First of all, it is necessary to make a high-quality vapor barrier from the side of the room.

This will require two layers. The ideal option for the first layer would be a foil film (it should be directed inside the bathhouse). Expanded clay is poured on top of it, after which two layers of vapor barrier are laid. In this case, claydite is not afraid of moisture, and it will not lose its quality characteristics for maintaining heat.

Penoizol

Penoizol is a liquid foam that perfectly fills all free, even hard-to-reach places. In addition, the material does not increase in volume and does not expand when dried.

If you are puzzled by the question of how to insulate the ceiling of the bath, and there are no extra finances, then penoizol will suit this role like nothing else. It can be used as a heater, as it is very economical, its price is much lower than the cost of other materials.

Foil insulation

The optimal material for arranging the ceiling is considered to be a foil insulation for a bath, which, in addition to the base layer, also contains a thin coating of aluminum foil. The metal part reflects infrared radiation, preventing heat from leaving the room, that is, the room will not cool immediately. In addition, the foil layer is a high-quality vapor barrier, which is simply necessary in rooms with high humidity, which the bath is. Varieties of insulation include aluminum-coated mineral wool and polymer foil sheets. The first option is available both in rolls and in slabs. This material is resistant to high temperatures, does not emit toxins and can be easily cut into various shapes. Polymeric materials with foil differ from mineral heaters in their small thickness and are produced only in rolls.

The main advantage of the listed options is that the metallized surface reflects heat, due to which the walls in the steam room and dressing room quickly heat up. Therefore, to achieve a certain temperature in the bath, you will need to spend less fuel, which is very beneficial for the owner of the steam room.

vapor barrier

Before insulating the ceiling of the bath from the outside, it is recommended to competently approach the issue of vapor barrier inside. This is the protection of the insulation from getting wet with hot steam, which rises from the steam room or washing. The vapor barrier must be laid airtight to be impervious to moisture penetration. Due to this, high temperatures are not afraid of her.

Often, foil is used as a vapor barrier. The joints between the sheets are glued with a special aluminized adhesive tape. This is the most effective way to isolate the ceiling of the bath from the penetration of steam and moisture.

A good option for isolating steam is to use foil isol. This is a modern material consisting of fiberglass.

Also, glassine or plastic wrap can be used as protection. Modern membrane heaters isospan and nanoizol also have all the necessary characteristics for arranging a steam room. The main rule: before insulating the ceiling in the bath, it is necessary to provide high-quality vapor barrier.

Types of bath ceiling coverings

There are several types of ceilings in the bath: hemming, flooring or panel. Both the selection of insulation and the method of vapor barrier depend on the types of coatings. Since it is very important to properly insulate the ceiling of the bath, the approach to this process should be appropriate. Consider the main types of floors.

panel ceiling

It has a simple construction of panels and boards laid on top of the beams. This type of ceiling is used in baths very rarely, so it makes no sense to consider the method of its isolation.

Decking ceiling

The ceiling in the form of flooring is used in steam rooms, saunas and baths, small in size. These are edged or tongue-and-groove boards that are attached directly to the walls without the use of beams. It is clear that this type of ceiling cannot experience a large load, and therefore baths with flooring are used only in the warm period of time, for example, in the summer at their summer cottage.

So how to insulate the ceiling in the bath without resorting to the help of professionals? To arrange this type of coverage yourself is very simple. A vapor barrier is rolled onto firmly nailed ceiling boards. A heat-insulating layer of mineral wool is laid on top. Next, you need to re-lay the vapor barrier layer. The thickness of the materials directly depends on the climatic and weather conditions of your residence and on the type of bath roof.

false ceiling

The most popular is the false ceiling, especially since it has a large bearing capacity and is cheaper. The top boards are attached to the floor beams, which are a solid wooden beam. According to the principle of installation work, the protection of a false ceiling is not much different from a floor covering.

We warm the ceiling of the bath with our own hands

It is quite possible to do without involving professionals and specialists in this process, because the installation technology is quite simple:

1. We attach vapor barrier to the ceiling beams. As a protective layer, you can use a plastic film or foil. You need to do this with a stapler.

2. Then we install the ceiling from the boards on the beams.

3. We apply an insulating layer of mineral wool or other material on the boards, the thickness of the insulation depends on the minimum outside temperatures.

4. From above, we cover the insulation with a vapor barrier and sheathe it with boards. This will be the floor in the attic of the bath, on which it will be possible to walk, because such an overlap can easily withstand the weight of a person.

Warming the ceiling of the bath is one of the most important events in terms of importance. Many are mistaken, believing that all options for protecting a steam room from the cold require significant material investments. Some types of heaters can become absolutely free for their owner. What material to use for the ceiling in your own bath, everyone decides for himself, based on their capabilities and personal preferences. This article can only advise which insulation is better, in any case, the choice will be yours.

The question of how to insulate the ceiling in the bath is of interest to those who like to take a steam bath, but how to keep the steam and temperature in the steam room so that the heat does not go through the walls and the ceiling will be found below. In the meantime, let's talk about the physics of heat.

There is such a thing as heat transfer. A cup of hot coffee cools down in contact with the environment; although air is a poor conductor of heat, the temperature of the coffee decreases until equilibrium is reached - the law of thermodynamics.

Below room temperature, the coffee will not cool down. How to do it quickly? Accelerate heat transfer! Pour coffee into a metal mug. Metal has a higher thermal conductivity than porcelain. And in the very process of transfusion, the liquid is in direct contact with the air and gives it heat energy.

Convection- heat transfer due to the movement of a liquid or gas. When bathing in a bath, you pour water on hot stones, the water evaporates and conveys a hot feeling to those in the bath.

What happens to the temperature in the steam room? A significant drop in temperature will not occur, a bucket of water will not be able to take heat from the stones. But saturated water vapor has a density higher than dry, which will take the upper position (that's why it's hot on the top shelf), the air will cool down the longer, the less heat transfer from the walls and ceiling of the steam room.

radiant warmth, emitted as infrared radiation directly from the stove, differs from the other two methods because no medium is needed to transfer heat between two separate objects.

The ideal protection against these forms of heat transfer is thermos. In fact, this is a bottle in a bottle, between which the space is divided by vacuum and reflecting radiant waves, a silver screen - a mirror.

The most vulnerable point of heat loss in this device is the cork. In the case of a bathhouse, this is ceiling and walls. Their heat transfer depends on the material from which they are made, the ability to retain heat in the bath.

It is necessary to create a barrier against heat loss with the help of thermal insulation, as in a thermos. To protect the material from moisture, there is vapor barrier films. There are two ways to insulate the ceiling: from inside the bath and outside. The choice of material depends on which side of the ceiling or wall the bath is insulated from.

The best way to insulate the bath ceiling is external insulation from the attic. Here are the pluses:

• There is no loss of space in the bathhouse, dressing room, rest room, shower room, and others;
• Larger selection of insulating materials;
• The requirements for environmental safety and moisture resistance are not as strict as inside the bath;
• Installation is simplified, it is convenient to lay the vapor barrier film and insulation.

How to insulate the ceiling in the bath from the outside?

The options are countless. If the attic floor is made of OSP boards, then they are laid vapor barrier film, and from above they insulate the ceiling of the bath basalt wool. They are laid in two layers to cover the joints, then they are covered with a vapor barrier film on top, they put lumber trimmings on it and that's it, if the attic is not used.

Even simpler is the old way: ceiling insulation with sawdust and clay. Our ancestors added clay so that mice would not settle in sawdust.

Bath ceiling insulation expanded clay do this: a reinforced plastic film is placed on the substrate, then expanded clay is poured on top. In general, they always tried to get by with local materials for insulation, slag was also covered in attics, pre-screened through a large mesh and obtained an excellent insulating material. But now more often they make floors and use the attic for household needs, a kind of attic where you can work and relax.

Special requirement for the arrangement and insulation of the roof. The floors are arranged as follows: a vapor barrier film is laid on the subfloor, logs are fixed from a cut board 20 x 100 or 40 x100 mm, insulation is placed between the logs. Instead of basalt wool, it is better to insulate mineral wool "Eco", then they sew chipboard, plywood, OSP on top - they make the floor.

The construction market is replete with thermal insulation materials. It is not easy to choose a heater for the ceiling in the bath which is better suited to the internal and which to the external installation. When choosing, be guided not only by the brand, but also material specifications. An important role is played by the combustibility class of the material, its characteristics of thermal conductivity, density, environmental friendliness, ease of installation and transportation.

Inside, the bath is insulated if it is made of heat-conducting material: brick, concrete slabs, thin boards. Do-it-yourself ceiling insulation in a mineral wool bath can be done by someone who knows how to use the building level and has work skills. A vapor barrier is attached to the wall and ceiling, a crate is made of timber. First, the beam is vertically screwed with self-tapping screws to the wall. Racks are made with a distance of 60 cm around the entire perimeter. Then the same design is done on the ceiling.

Advice. Before laying mineral wool between the bars, make holes in the ceiling: 1- for arranging ventilation (in the far corner from the door), 2- for the chimney insulating box.

Let's see how to do it below. The transverse dimensions of the beam depend on the type of heat-insulating material laid between them. Mineral wool is sold in rolls. Before installation, you need to cut the roll in half, you get a strip of 60 cm. Wait for the strip to take its shape. When unfolded, it will swell from the air that fills the pores. Fasten between the rails, as in the image. Choose environmentally friendly materials.

Then, additional insulation of the ceiling of the bath with foil, which has a dense paper base, which plays the role of a heat insulator; the mirror part reflects radiant energy, retaining heat. They begin to fasten the rolled foil from the floor to the ceiling with paper clips to the bars with an overlap of 5-10 cm, the seam is glued with adhesive foil tape.

Advice. Choose the right quality material. Require a safety compliance certificate. Not all materials are suitable for warming the bath from the inside. Follow the rules for arranging chimneys. 90% of fires in stove baths occur due to improper cutting of the chimney passage through the ceiling, attic floor and roof.

The isolation of the budget option is considered. There are other materials that are more expensive, but effective in terms of their thermal insulation qualities, as they have 3 protection barriers: waterproofing, vapor barrier, thermal insulation.

How to insulate the ceiling in the bath with your own hands: a step by step guide

Installation of thermal insulation with SPU Sauna-Satu panels does not require preparation. Now that you know how to insulate the ceiling in a mineral wool bath, make exactly the same crate for the panels if the walls are crooked.

Panel sizes: 1, 2 x 0.6 x 0.03 m and 2.4 x 0.6 x 0.03 m have the same width as the standard roll insulation. Wooden surfaces in the bath, before installing the panels, it is recommended to impregnate antiseptic solution.

SPU Sauna-Satu panels have tongue and groove connection. In the Scandinavian countries, these plates are used for warming saunas, including with the use of steam. Special sealing foam seals the joints, the panels can be installed both horizontally and vertically. Installation instructions:

1. Prepare: knife, fasteners, sealing foam and aluminum tape.

2. Before installing the first board, cut the tenon along the entire length of the board.

3. The first panel is placed on the floor with the cut side and applied to the wall. Before installation, a sealant is applied at the docking site.

4. The panel is pressed tightly against the seal, holes are drilled and umbrellas are hammered in the fasteners. Fasteners, tape, sealant - everything is included in the kit. Ask sellers.

5. Panels fit easily into the groove. Each joint is coated with a sealant. Apply to panel ribs prior to installation.

6. Then the panels are attached to the ceiling beams, the corners are sealed, the excess foam is carefully cut off, and all joints are additionally glued with tape.

7. Below, if you intend to do a floor screed, remove the top layer 10-15 cm from the floor around the entire perimeter from the panel and make waterproofing in the baseboard where the wall joins the floor. Apply several layers of waterproofing paste with a brush, stick the waterproofing tape and apply the paste again. Then they make a crate for lining with clapboard.

8. Finishing with clapboard.

Ceiling insulation provides for cutting under an insulating box through which the pipe will pass. Here's what the factory box looks like.

The thermodynamic processes that take place in the bath during heating and the adoption of procedures should remain inside the system (steam room) as long as possible, and this is possible only with proper thermal insulation of the ceiling, walls, section of the ceiling in the place of the pipe, doors.

Useful video

The benefits from the correct selection of materials and installation of thermal insulation are obvious - the speed of warming up the bath, fuel savings, and most importantly - the pleasure and health that you will experience in the process of bath procedures. Be careful. Do not make a mistake in choosing materials, contact those who perform these works in a complex way: thermal, sound and waterproofing, installation of ventilation systems, and other works.

The bath building belongs to the category of structures with special operating conditions. The formation of a microclimate, acceptable for the adoption of beneficial procedures, and fuel consumption, and the time of warming up the premises depend on its competent device. The term "competent device" means a number of technological processes, one of which is the insulation of the bath ceiling. After all, it is precisely the insufficiently thermally insulated upper floor that contributes to the leakage of almost a third of thermal energy.

Heated air, obeying the strict laws of physics, rushes up. If there is no impenetrable barrier on its way, its further work will be aimed at heating the atmosphere. To stop such unreasonable spending, a reliable barrier must be erected. Moreover, it must be done in such a way that it does not contribute to the formation of condensate on the wooden elements of the ceiling, so that this moisture does not favor the settlement of colonies of microorganisms that destroy building materials.

Principles of thermal insulation of bath ceilings

Based on the design features of the roof, baths made of logs or timber can be divided into two types: buildings with and without attic space. On the way of warm air flowing out of baths with attics, there will be a much more powerful ceiling, in the puff cake of which heat-insulating material is usually laid during the construction process.

The under-roofing space itself, filled with air mass, also slows down the leakage of thermal energy, the insulation of the roof structure will also slightly moderate the agility of the "runaway" heat.

However, this does not mean that it is not necessary to insulate the ceiling in a bathhouse with an attic or attic. An increase in thermal insulation characteristics in it is sometimes necessary no less than in a building without an attic, where the heat seeping out meets few and too weak obstacles in its path.

The specifics of the vapor barrier device

In both cases, regardless of the design of the roof, before laying the heat-insulating layer, a vapor barrier is laid on the ceiling of the bath. To equip a building without an attic space, aluminum foil, compacted cardboard, generously impregnated with drying oil, and waxed paper can be used as a vapor barrier layer.

In baths with an attic, the same materials are applicable, but most often the ceiling boards from the side of the roof are coated with a two-centimeter layer of clay.

Of the options offered by the industry, the following are used:

• standard polyethylene film (as for greenhouses 0.4 mm with variations) - a type of vapor barrier that is not very popular due to the greenhouse effect;

Note. The use of polyethylene film as insulation obliges to leave a gap necessary for the evaporation of condensate.

• special vapor barrier film made of polyethylene with villi to retain condensate;
• vapor barrier material of membrane type.

Vapor barrier is necessary to prevent the transit of wet vapors and their settling in the insulation. After all, the water accumulated in the heat-insulating material will shorten its service life, increase the weight of the multilayer ceiling system and, if we return to the course of physics, reduce the insulating qualities.

Three functions of bath ceiling insulation

The hotter the room temperature is required, the more difficult it is to build a barrier to retain heat. To solve this difficult task, those who want to know how to insulate the ceiling of a bath should familiarize themselves with the three main leak patterns:

• the movement of heated air through the cracks in the ceiling;
• gradual transition of heat from heated objects to cold ones;
• crossing homogeneous barriers by thermal waves.

Laying thermal insulation material in a multi-layer system of the upper floor prevents all types of thermal leakage. Properly made insulation will adequately perform all the work assigned to it. Due to illiterate thermal insulation, condensate will begin to settle on the floor, it will take much longer to warm up the room, and more fuel resources will be spent.

The choice of materials for insulation

Before deciding how to insulate the ceiling in the bath, you need to consider all the options for suitable heat-insulating materials.

• "Classic" mineral wool is used most often. In its chaotic interweaving of fibers melted from basalt, there are billions of air-filled voids, each of which works responsibly to retain heat. The disadvantage is the loss of insulating qualities when wet.

Note. When using mineral wool for ceiling insulation in bath buildings, it is recommended to lay a waterproofing layer over the insulation if the roof is not sufficiently protected from atmospheric water leaks. Between the waterproofing layer and the insulation, you need to arrange a heat-insulating gap.

• Super light foamed polypropylene - foam thermal baths are also often laid on the ceiling of the bath. The material laminated with foil was developed specifically for the arrangement of bathhouses and saunas. In addition to the insulation function assigned to it, it reflects the flow of thermal energy with its foil side. Working on the principle of a mirror, penotherm allows you to reduce the warm-up time of the steam room by 2-3 times.

• Expanded clay is suitable for large-sized bath structures. A layer sufficient to insulate the ceiling should be 30 cm. Although the material is relatively lightweight, it will inevitably increase the mass of the building. Its porous granules, like mineral wool, are susceptible to moisture. Waterproofing is also required.
• "People's" heat insulator. The first element is a 2 cm layer of crumpled clay. Instead, a mix of black soil and peat, wood shavings filled with cement mortar, a mixture of clay, sand or sawdust is suitable. A “carpet” of dry sawdust or leaves (preferably oak) is laid on top of the laid layer, and the insulation is completed by laying a layer of dry earth with a thickness of 15 cm.
• Growing aerated concrete, for the pouring of which a simple formwork is arranged. The video will clearly depict how this insulation of the bath ceiling is carried out: the video demonstrates the unpretentious technology in detail.

It is difficult to recommend the thickness of the insulation layer offhand, without knowing the real dimensions of heat loss and the technical parameters of the structure. All figures are approximate and may vary. Much depends on the climatic zone, because the ceiling insulation in the bath is not only a barrier to heat, but also protection from external temperature factors. If the ceiling outside freezes, moisture will definitely condense on the ceiling. In such cases, the thermal insulation layer is simply increased.

Ceiling insulation technology

Regardless of the material chosen for the construction of the bath, the design of its upper floor is almost the same. The supporting base is formed by beams resting on the upper crowns of timber or logs or on the mauerlat of brick or panel buildings. The timber used for the construction of the beam ceiling is usually treated with an antiseptic before installation. But, if the fungus protection procedure has not been carried out in advance, the wood should be treated before laying the layers of thermal insulation. Particular care must be taken in the places where building materials with different technical characteristics are joined. In such tandems as brick-wood, foam concrete-wood, wood-metal.

• From the side of the bath rooms, the ceiling is hemmed with boards, nailed from below to the beams.
• Roll-up shields are knocked together, which are two rows of low-grade boards perpendicular to each other.

Attention. The masters who carry out the insulation of the ceiling of the bath with their own hands, before the construction of the roll-over shields, need to make calculations. There must be a gap of at least 5 cm between the beams and the shields mounted on the skull boards. There must be a distance of at least 25 cm between the wooden elements and the chimney.

It is necessary to draw a diagram and, according to it, calculate the dimensions and configuration of each of the shields. After manufacturing, the shields must be numbered so as not to get confused during installation.

• Knocked together "boxes" also need to be protected from rot and bacteria with antiseptic impregnation.
• A vapor barrier material is attached to the bottom and inner walls of a shield resembling a pallet with a stapler.
• The shields are lifted up without insulation, starting with those that will be installed last.
• Having lifted all the elements up, they are arranged according to the marking. The lower plane of the shield put in place must coincide with the lower plane of the beam.
• After placement, the boxes are stuffed with heat-insulating material. It is also necessary to insulate the gaps between the shields and beams.
• From above, the entire structure is sewn up with boards in a direction perpendicular to the direction of the beams.

Advice. It is not necessary to use a long board for the top cladding, it can be alternated with rows made up of short boards.

Instead of boards, you can use fiberboard, home-made slabs of cement mortar with sawdust. The finished ceiling must be treated with a flame retardant; in the chimney area, all wooden elements are sheathed with asbestos sheets.

Thermal insulation for the steam room

The topic is separate, since the upper plane of the steam room should not only not let through, but also contribute to the accumulation of steam in the subceiling zone. Above the steam rooms, it is advised to lay two layers of vapor barrier material and supplement the insulation for the ceiling of the bath with layers of thermal insulation.

Design from Sosnin with Bukharkin

• The beams are hemmed with tongue-and-groove boards 2.5 cm thick. They must be covered with drying oil in two layers, which, according to the developers, should inform the lumber of moisture resistance.
• A low-grade board with slots of approximately 3 cm is nailed on top of the beams in the transverse direction. This is the so-called moisture gap.
• Roofing felt is laid on the boards laid with gaps, a polyethylene film can be used. It's great if the owner does not skimp on the foil with reinforcement.
• Fall asleep 20-centimeter layer of slag or sand.

Two more options for a couple

For filing from below along the ceiling beams, an unedged five-centimeter board is suitable. Outside, along the beams, a narrow board is attached to the capercaillie to support the filing. To this thin board, the facing of the ceiling directly from the tongue-and-groove aspen board with a ventilation gap is attached.

From the side of the attic, a vapor barrier layer is laid, then 3 cm of a layer of clay mixed with sawdust. Then mineral wool with a density of 125 units and a width of 15 cm and a PP film from the wind. At the end, the attic floor boards are mounted.

If the ceiling is made of logs, the ceiling of the steam room is sheathed from below over a crate built especially for it. Glassine is laid on top as a vapor barrier layer, then 20 cm of sand, everything else is optional.

If the owner wants his building to keep steam perfectly, you should find out in detail how to properly insulate the ceiling of the bath. Information about the sequence in which the layers are laid, how the design of the ceiling in the steam room differs from the analogue for the washing department, will help to competently insulate the building, which has become a symbol of suburban life. The proposed device options can be upgraded in accordance with personal requirements and climatic features.