When propagating flowers in the garden, you should follow the rules for caring for them. If the slightest mistake is made somewhere, then the plants either wither or do not bloom for a long time. This happens with whimsical hydrangea - a classic touch of landscape rock gardens. This flower shrub originally from Japan has taken root in Russia, but the distinctive climatic conditions of domestic regions make their own adjustments to its cultivation.

Reasons why hydrangea does not bloom

Every gardener almost always expects hydrangeas to bloom in the year of planting. Indeed, according to the descriptions for the care of the flower shrub, it lasts from mid-spring to late autumn. The plant, depending on the species, throws out beautiful jug-shaped inflorescences of purple, pink, white, lilac, red.

Hydrangea is the most delicate decoration of gardens and flower beds. However, this effect is not always achieved. Why? The answer of experts to this question is simple - the main reason for the undesirable phenomenon is a violation of agricultural technology. During the period of growing hydrangeas, misses are allowed - the needs of the plant itself are not taken into account.
So why is Hydrangea so demanding? It turns out that the flower shrub does not have so many needs, and there is always a chance to fix everything for the better.

Hydrangea flower bed and the reasons for the lack of flowers:

• Hydrangea is struggling to cope with climate change. This is especially often manifested in cases where the flower is grown in greenhouse conditions, after which it is planted in open ground.
• Inadequate development of the root system of seedlings can affect the number of inflorescences and cause their complete absence. This is observed if the hydrangea is the first year of planting.
• perennial hydrangea shrubs in early spring or pruned in late autumn. If pruning is done incorrectly, flowering should not be expected.
• Hydrangea is a heat-loving plant, therefore it does not tolerate cold and low temperatures.
• Consequently, if the wintering conditions do not meet the requirements of the shrub, it loses strong shoots, which, quite simply, freeze and become unviable.
• Hydrangea loves water very much, even its name Hydrangea in ancient Greek means a vessel with water. Violation of irrigation also affects the number of inflorescences, and their size, and their absence.
• Growing any flower in climatic conditions different from the weather conditions in the country of origin requires constant feeding of the plant with a balanced fertilizer. If feeding is not observed, the hydrangea does not bloom.
• Flower shrub is very whimsical to the type of soil. If the soil is not acidic and poor in iron, Hydrangea not only does not bloom, but also loses the green color of the foliage.
• Despite the fact that the hydrangea is resistant to many diseases, it is not immune from damage by mites, aphids, weevils, which also negatively affects the flowering of the plant.
• A fully developed Hydrangea bush blooms for four to five years in the so-called period of youth. If the hydrangea has ceased to please with bright inflorescences, it needs a transplant.

Homemade Hydrangea and the main factors of non-blooming

Growing a flower shrub at home requires a little more attention. This is due to the fact that he needs to provide the same growth conditions as on the street. Consequently, indoor hydrangea, with improper care, may bloom late or not form inflorescences at all.

Magnificent hydrangeas in the house do not bloom if:

• an unfortunate place was chosen for the pot in terms of lighting, the flower shrub loves the sun, but direct ultraviolet radiation should not be allowed to fall on it;
• the regularity and moderation of watering is not observed;
• not supported favorable temperature regime+ 18-22 ° С and air humidity 75-80% in the room where the flower grows;
• pruning was incorrectly performed before preparing the plant for wintering.

Here, perhaps, are all the whims that should be considered when propagating hydrangeas on your own. personal plot and in the house. Moreover, it should be noted that there is no difference in the requirements of the shrub and tree species of Hydrangea.
Now it is clear why the hydrangea does not bloom. How to achieve the opposite effect and create favorable conditions for its violent flowering.

Proper plant care at home and garden

Knowing what to do in the absence of air hydrangea flowers, it is easier to help it bloom in all its glory. Long blooming Hydrangea can be grown:

• and in the flowerbed
• and in a shady garden;
• and on window sills in flower pots.

Hydrangea care in the garden and in the house has some differences. If it is not possible to grow a shrub fragrant with inflorescences in any way, then following the tips below, you can still achieve what you want in one season.

In order to admire the long-awaited flowering of the magnificent hydrangea, the plant should be properly planted. To do this, first of all, you should decide where it will grow: in room conditions or street.

Landing on a flower bed

There are some nuances.

They are the following:

• Hydrangea seedlings are recommended to be planted in the ground either in late autumn or early spring before buds appear on the trees.
• The flower shrub does best in partial shade and moderately lit areas.
• The recess for planting should not exceed 50 cm in diameter and 50 cm in depth. For the full development of the root system of the plant, such parameters are sufficient.
• It is advisable to plant hydrangea in loamy soils enriched with peat.
• When planting a perennial bush, its roots are pruned; when planting young seedlings, this procedure is not required.
• In the prepared hole, a small hill is formed from the prepared soil, on which the prepared seedling is placed and the roots are straightened so that they fall. Next, the earth is tamped and watering is performed.
• If Hydrangea is planted in late autumn, then you need to hide the soil under the shrub under the mulch. This is done in order to ensure favorable conditions for overwintering plants.

If hydrangea seedlings are purchased, grown in a greenhouse and planted in spring, plants should be supported during the period of adaptation to natural conditions, namely, to provide watering, protection from drafts, fertilizing the soil for a month and a half with special complex fertilizers of factory production.

Planting in a pot

Planting a hydrangea seedling in a pot is carried out subject to the following conditions.

• Indoor hydrangea prefers turf, leafy soil and sand in a ratio of 3/3/1.
• If, when growing a shrub on the street, it is possible to provide the root system with freedom, then the roots of horizontal branching in the usual flower pot feel constrained. Therefore, when growing hydrangeas at home, containers with a wide bottom should be preferred.
• Drainage is laid at the bottom of the pot (crushed stone, expanded clay, pebbles, brick chips). The second layer is the prepared soil from which the hill is formed. A seedling with neatly straightened roots is placed on it. Next, the pot is filled with the remnants of the soil, while it is important not to fill up the root collar - leave it at the level of the last soil layer.
• The final touch when planting a hydrangea in a pot is watering and laying a layer of peat mulch in order to prevent rapid evaporation of moisture.

At home, you can plant not only a hydrangea seedling in a pot, but also sow seeds:

• For sowing, use humus, sod and leafy soil in a ratio of 1/1/1.
• For planting hydrangeas by the seed method, a low container with a wide bottom is chosen.
• Sowing is done at the end of winter. Its feature is the absence of seed embedding in the ground.
• A container with seeds on the top layer of soil is covered with a film and exposed to a warm, bright place.
• Before the shoots appear, the seeds are aired and moderately moistened with a spray bottle.
• After the appearance of two leaves on the shoots, they swoop down - they are planted in separate pots.

pruning

Both flower bed and home Hydrangea require pruning.

It happens like this:

• In late spring (late April - early May), unviable and weak shoots should be removed, while in late autumn only dry inflorescences are cut.
• When performing pruning, you should be aware that inflorescences appear only on last year's shoots.

Fertilizer

Proper feeding of hydrangeas consists in observing the dosage and time of fertilization.

The flowerbed hydrangea will throw out large inflorescences if it is fertilized with nitrogenous fertilizers in the spring:

• A solution of urea and potassium sulfate. For ten liters of water, dilute one tbsp. a spoonful of fertilizer. The need for one fully developed bush is five liters of solution.
• slurry diluted in water in a ratio of 1/10. Watering is carried out within a week.
• A weak solution of potassium permanganate, which is used both for watering plants and spraying shrub crowns.

Also, abundant flowering of hydrangeas can be achieved by adding potassium and phosphorus mineral additives to the soil during the formation of inflorescences.
To provide long flowering in the summer, the flower bed hydrangea is fertilized with potash fertilizers, which also allow the plant to retain moisture. In addition, in the summer it is recommended to oxidize the soil with curdled milk or cheese.

During autumn period hydrangeas need potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.

When the shrub is preparing for winter dormancy, to ensure its frost resistance and endurance, potassium sulfate and superphosphate are added to the soil in the proportion of one tbsp. spoon for ten liters of water.
Indoor hydrangea should be fed throughout the summer. No more than twice a week, you need to water the flower with a solution of mineral fertilizers containing water (one bucket), superphosphate (40g), ammonium nitrate (30g), potassium sulfate (30g).

Preparing for winter

Street Hydrangea blooms profusely if its wintering has been properly organized.
Bushes of flowerbed hydrangea after pruning and fertilization are tied with twine.
The roots are covered with foliage, spruce branches and coniferous branches. The layer of mulch should be at least 10 cm.
In regions with harsh climatic conditions, hydrangea bushes are additionally covered with a film.
Preparing a potted hydrangea for wintering involves:

• removal of dry inflorescences and leaves;
• placing pots in a dark cool place (+ 8-10 ° C);
• minimum irrigation of the soil.

Watering

Potted hydrangea is demanding on watering. Moisture should be moderate so that the roots do not rot and do not hurt. You need to water the flower with settled water at room temperature. Watering is done only when upper layer soil dries well. Water additives for watering citric acid or vinegar cause abundant flowering.

Flower bed hydrangea requires more moisture, so it is watered regularly twice a week in hot weather and once if it rained during the week. One adult hydrangea bush requires 30 to 50 liters of warm settled water.

Variety selection

Hydrangea may not bloom due to the whimsicalness of the variety. Not all types of flower shrubs, even with careful care, quickly adapt to a new climate. Sometimes from planting a seedling to the moment of flowering takes from five to seven years.

When choosing a hydrangea variety, you should study the requirements for its care. For example, paniculate hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata, Unique, Kyushu, Grandiflora, Brussels Lace, Limelight) and tree hydrangea (Annabelle, Hydrangea arborescens) take root in cool regions, while large-leaved hydrangea (Hydrangea acrophyla, Blauer Zwerg, Gerda Steiniger, Ever Peppermint, Endless Summer) and oaky (Hayes Starburst, Incrediball, White Dome) are more suitable for temperate climates.

Hydrangea is often planted on summer cottages or in the front garden own house: her bush blooms beautifully and for a long time. But sometimes it happens that the hydrangea refuses to bloom. Dealing with the reasons is not always easy, since there are quite a few of them.

Reasons why hydrangea does not bloom, and ways to solve the problem

As a rule, the first 2-3 years after planting young seedling hydrangeas should not be expected to bloom. Some varieties do not bloom even longer, but most are obliged to please the owner already in young age. If this does not happen, then action must be taken.

Wrong landing site

Hydrangea is a delicate plant, and under scorching sun feels uncomfortable. If on open space it will bloom, the flowering will be inferior: it will end quickly, and the flowers will not be as lush and spectacular as expected. But planting a bush in the shade is not worth it either: hydrangeas need at least a few hours good lighting in a day.

If the shade is created by tall trees, they will deprive the flower of moisture and nutrients.

The best location is partial shade: in the morning the sun warmed, illuminated, and hid by lunchtime. If the mistake is in choosing a place, it is worth trying to build a shelter. If this is not possible, you will have to replant the bush, but this can only be done with young plants.

Hydrangea is often planted near a fence that covers the bush from the sun in the afternoon.

The bush is difficult to take root

Hydrangea is a shrub that is not easy to grow: it takes a long time to adapt to a new place of residence. Therefore, at the slightest deviation from the rules of landing or leaving, it can “sick” for a long time, but then, as a rule, everything returns to normal. If in the same place the plant is accustomed to one mode of nutrition and watering, and the new owner has different conditions, the adaptation period may be delayed.

If this is the case, we must wait, but not allow the plant to die, and for this it is better to feed it, gradually reducing the amount of fertilizer. And so that the change of place does not really introduce hydrangea into stress, it must be transplanted with a clod of earth.

For a hydrangea seedling with a closed root system, the likelihood of transplant stress is minimal

lack of moisture

Drying out of the soil under the hydrangea bushes is unacceptable, as it reacts very painfully to this: leaves, shoots wither, and the bush is no longer up to flowering. A strong heat without watering a bush may not survive at all. Hydrangea is watered weekly in normal weather, and twice as often in drought. This is especially true for young plants.

Hydrangea is moisture-loving, it needs watering once or twice a week, depending on the weather.

However, stagnant water is also harmful, so clay soils when planting in the pit, drainage is necessarily placed. For irrigation use water heated by the sun's rays. If you bring the humidity regime back to normal, next year the bush will be covered with beautiful flowers.

Unskilled pruning

Adult hydrangeas are pruned annually, but this must be done correctly. Pruning begins only after the bush has given flowers for the first time. Act carefully when trimming:

• thickening and old (from 5 years old) shoots are cut out;
• remove the weakest branches, especially those growing inward;
• shorten the shoots of last year, leaving no more than 3 healthy buds.

In autumn, only broken, diseased and dried shoots are removed, and more detailed pruning is carried out in the spring. If the lack of flowering of the bush is observed due to improper pruning, the matter is fixable: once you need to do everything right, and the flowers will appear.

Even if you do not prune hydrangeas in the fall, you need to cut off at least faded inflorescences

Wrong diet

Hydrangeas do not need excessive amounts of fertilizer. This is especially true of nitrogen, which causes an increase in green mass at the expense of flowering. Nitrogen supplements (urea or mullein infusion) are given only in May, they are excluded in summer, and only ash is added in autumn.

Various trace elements can even regulate the color of hydrangea flowers, but this is a separate issue.

On sale there are fertilizers for hydrangeas, depending on the color

If there is an assumption that the bushes were overfed with nitrogen, it is necessary to add more superphosphate, and forget about urea and manure for a while - until next year.

Freezing roots and buds

Even in warm regions, hydrangeas are prepared for winter. Shelter there can only serve as a spunbond, which covers the shrub after autumn pruning. In other regions, it is necessary to hill plants, add a good layer of mulch and cover with coniferous spruce branches, and in the most severe climatic conditions - with roofing material.

No matter how large the hydrangea bush is, for the winter it is covered with spunbond even in relatively warm regions

It is dangerous to leave a hydrangea without shelter, freezing of the soil can lead to the complete death of the root system. Partial freezing is fixable: good feeding and warming for the next winter will eventually return everything to normal.

Diseases, pests

Among the pests of hydrangeas, slugs, aphids and mites are most often annoyed. Slugs are best destroyed by hand, and the rest are eliminated with various insecticides. It is not difficult to deal with pests on the shrub, and it is necessary to do this, since they greatly weaken the plants.

Slugs on hydrangeas appear due to frequent rains and high humidity.

Among diseases, fungal ones occur (gray rot, peronosporosis, powdery mildew), which are successfully treated with fungicides: copper chloride or Bordeaux mixture. Often affects hydrangea and chlorosis: due to iron deficiency, the leaves turn pale, flowering is difficult. Top dressing with iron sulphate corrects the situation over time.

Video: pruning, watering, shading - for better hydrangea flowering

There are many reasons why the hydrangea does not bloom, but most of them are easily eliminated. It is important to understand in time what caused the problem and take urgent measures so that flowers appear on the shrub next year.

tree hydrangea

This type of plant is the most unpretentious. It is he who begins to grow inexperienced gardeners. Hydrangea arborescens can be different colors. Usually in nature there are flowers of white and dark pink hue. Annabelle is a variety of this type of plant. He is familiar to everyone, and his bushes reach a 2-meter mark. Annabelle has large and fluffy inflorescences.

Paniculata hydrangea

Also found in nature. This plant is very cold tolerant. Usually it can be found in squares and parks. Hydrangea bushes can reach 1.5 meters in height. The flowers of this type of plant can be red, cream or lemon.

indoor hydrangea

This type of plant is considered the most capricious. It is unique, so able to change its color. This happens when the acidity of the earth changes. This type of hydrangea is intended for indoor cultivation. Coloring can be very diverse.

climbing hydrangea

This type of plant can be grown near arches. Its bushes reach 2 meters in length and can stretch along the entire arch without support. But the plant is not able to tolerate cold climates.

The plant does not bloom

Many novice gardeners often wonder why the hydrangea does not bloom, but only leaves? If this happens, then first of all it is necessary to identify the cause.

Firstly, the reason for the plant not flowering may be incorrect work on pruning shrubs in the spring.
Secondly, insufficient soil nutrition could be carried out. Gardeners, due to their ignorance, could poorly water the soil and poorly illuminate the growing areas of the plant.
Thirdly, the root system might not have fully developed.
Fourthly, the buyer may notice that the plant bloomed well in the store, and upon arrival home it quickly wilted. In this case, most likely the seller used flowering stimulants. Because of these drugs, the plant may not bloom for many more years. In this case, we advise you to use a plant growth activator to feed the flower.
And finally, hydrangea may not bloom due to freezing in winter.

The flower may not bloom due to the wrong land. It is very important to find your soil acidity, because for different plants she owns. Another reason for non-flowering hydrangeas is considered an incorrect transplant. The gardener, due to his inexperience, transplanted the plant into a cramped container or, conversely, into a too wide one. When transplanting, the gardener could slightly damage the roots.

Often, gardeners wonder why the paniculate hydrangea does not bloom, but only gives foliage. This can happen due to malnutrition. That is, if the plant is overfed with a large amount of nitrogen fertilizers. Many varieties of plants require rest in order to gain strength before flowering in the spring. Some plants try to put on sunny side and some in the shade.

The reason for the lack of flowering in hydrangeas may be dry air. If the air temperature is too high, then spraying the plant, you help it stay fresh for a short time. Hydrangea is able not to bloom and not tie buds if it is affected by pests. At first, the plant may bloom, but with a strong spread of pests, it will lose buds.

Due to improper pruning, hydrangea may not bloom. Incorrect watering process also negatively affects the flowering of the plant. For successful flowering paniculate hydrangea necessary fertile soils. The plant likes a clay structure, but does not like sandy ones. When planting hydrangeas, if the soil is not acidic, then you will need to add sawdust and coniferous greens. The plant needs moist soil.

The two questions most often asked by buyers are: why don't large-leaved hydrangeas bloom, and if they do, why not blue flowers?
To get guaranteed flowering, you have to try - after the first frost, cut off the leaves, leave the top two. Remove old branches - this stimulates the formation of powerful basal shoots, cut out weak shoots, they are unproductive and die more often in winter. In no case do not cut off the apical buds - the largest inflorescences develop from them, and some varieties bloom exclusively at the tops. Gently bend the remaining shoots to the ground, the lower the better, do not isolate anything from the ground (this is a common mistake), top part bush should lie on the ground. Cover the tops with lutrasil (spunbond, agril) from above and cover the whole plant with peat or ordinary soil (I take it from the beds, and take it back in the spring). There should be at least 10-15 cm of earth above the plant, and if you are not sure about the frost resistance of the variety, you can cover it with lutrasil-60 from above. In fact, the process is not complicated, and the result exceeds expectations.

In the spring, hydrangeas have to be dug out late, sometimes in early June, because. flower buds are afraid of return frosts. But, if you live in a country house, then you can take a chance - dig it out, and if there is a threat of freezing, wrap the bush with lutrasil in 2 layers. When removing the shelter, carefully fold the lutrasil along with the ground so as not to damage the buds, which by this time are usually already put forward. Raise the shoots and shade with lutrasil for the first time, remove it on a rainy or cloudy day.

Large-leaved hydrangeas bloom very early, their inflorescences are already stained in early July, when the paniculate ones are just gathering strength.

Why did the blue variety of hydrangea suddenly turn pink? The fact is that for the formation of blue inflorescences, hydrangeas need aluminum salts, for example, the Raduga hydrangea dye. It must be applied in liquid form, but if it is rainy, you can bury a teaspoon around the bush in several places, it will slowly dissolve and be absorbed by the plant. But aluminum works only on very acidic soil, so during the season it is necessary to acidify the soil several times - dissolve 50 g of citric acid in 10 liters of water and shed the earth under the plant in several approaches so that the solution reaches even deep roots. To prevent water from spreading, make a roller of earth around the plants. These activities should be carried out at the end of August-September, that is, at the time of laying flower buds for next year, but if you made it at another time, it will not be worse, and then your hydrangea will again have blue inflorescences.

Often even experienced growers faced with the problem of the lack of flowers in the garden. This plant is demanding on growing conditions. The slightest mistake in care can lead to the fact that its buds wither and fall off, or even do not appear at all.

To ensure long and abundant flowering of young and adult bushes, you need to know what factors most often affect their flowering. In this case, you can quickly fix the problem when it occurs.

The main reasons for the lack of flowering and their solution

Most often, novice flower growers make the following gross mistakes in caring for a flower. Why garden hydrangea does not bloom:

Often there are anomalies in the growth and development of the root system, especially in newly acquired plants. This leads to a violation of the development of the bush and the lack of flowering.

Consider the reasons why the hydrangea does not bloom in more detail.

Preparing for the winter

Hydrangea does not tolerate frost. Any decrease in air temperature below 0ºС can lead to freezing of flower buds. In this case, the plant will not bloom. To protect the bush from frost, it must be covered for the winter.

Without waiting for the autumn frosts, the leaves are cut off from the bush, the branches are pulled together with a tourniquet and wrapped with covering material. The bush is bent to the ground and covered with spruce branches. In the spring, it is gradually freed from spruce branches, but finally opened only with the departure of frost and the onset of heat.

pruning

In order for the plant to bloom, it must be cut correctly. In the spring, dry, old and weak branches are pruned.

All well-developed shoots of the previous year are not touched. Usually it is on their tops that flowers form. If an inexperienced grower cuts off these shoots, the plant will not form buds and will not bloom.

top dressing

Hydrangea does not respond well to excess fertilizer in the soil. It is especially harmful in summer and early autumn to introduce into the soil nitrogen fertilizers.

They are used to enhance the growth of green mass and do not contribute to flowering. And the rapid growth of shoots in the fall leads to the fact that they do not have time to ripen for the cold and freeze.

Proper feeding of the plant is carried out several times a season. At the end of spring, nitrogen fertilizers are applied to enhance the growing season. In summer, fertilizing with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers is used to stimulate and maintain flowering. In early September, potassium-phosphorus preparations are applied to strengthen the shoots and prepare for winter.

Root development and flowering

For flowering, the bush must have a powerful root system. If the roots are poorly developed, there is no hope for early flowering. Bushes that are too young or overfed with fertilizers can take several years to form roots. And only after that such bushes bloom.

Choosing the right place for planting a bush and caring for it will allow you to overcome all difficulties and achieve annual flowering.

Also affect the flowering of the bush can:

• Insufficient watering;
• High air temperature;
• Excess sunlight or its lack;
• Heavy clay soil.

Reasons for the lack of flowering in some species and varieties

Different types of hydrangea have their own, peculiar only to this variety, reasons for the absence of flowers and buds. Among garden hydrangeas, the most popular are:

Consider the most likely reasons why they do not bloom.

Panicled hydrangea is the most frost-resistant species. It tolerates cold so easily that it can not be covered at all for the winter. Its buds do not freeze over, as inflorescences are formed on the shoots of the current year. However, this species may not bloom for some other reason.

The main reason why panicle hydrangea does not bloom is the unsuitable composition of the soil.. For such a plant, heavy loamy soil with weak acidity is more suitable. Lungs sandy soils not acceptable for this species.

Also very often the plant refuses to bloom due to lack of nutrition. Therefore, feeding should be given special attention.

Why large-leaved hydrangea does not bloom: most often due to freezing of shoots and buds. There are many varieties of this species, which have different winter hardiness.

If some of them can be grown in open field, covering for the winter, then others freeze out even with careful shelter. These varieties can only be grown in enclosed spaces like potted plants.

Large-leaved hydrangea pruning should also be done carefully.. Flowers are formed on the shoots of the previous year, which cannot be touched during pruning. If they are shortened, then the flower buds will be removed and the plant will not bloom.

This species is quite cold hardy. However, if the bushes are not covered, in conditions harsh winter most of the flower buds will freeze. In summer, a frozen bush will not bloom. Therefore, the plant needs to be covered for the winter.

This species needs to be fed regularly., first with fertilizers for leaf growth, then with fertilizers for flowering. Without top dressing, the plant will refuse to bloom.

The reason why it doesn't bloom tree hydrangea may be improper watering. In overdried soil, especially in the summer heat, such a bush develops very slowly and never blooms.

Garden hydrangea refuses to bloom for several years

Your garden beauty pleased with annual flowering, but for several years now there have been no flowers on it. What is the reason? If the bush was protected from frost, it was properly fed and watered, most probable cause lack of buds are diseases and pests. A plant that is sick or affected by harmful insects will not bloom.

On the garden hydrangea aphids settle, spider mites, weevils and many other pests. To kill insects, it is recommended to treat the bush with insecticides.

Hydrangea is most often affected by viral mosaic disease and fungal diseases : downy mildew and gray mold. To destroy fungi, the bush is treated with fungicidal preparations. With a viral infection, all affected areas of the plant are cut out and burned.

Proper feeding of garden hydrangea for flowering

What to do if the garden hydrangea does not bloom - perhaps the reasons are in feeding. Top dressing of hydrangeas is a mandatory procedure for proper growth and flowering. Spring, summer and autumn fundamentally differ in the composition of the fertilizers used.

At the beginning of spring when there is an active increase in leaf mass, nitrogen fertilizers are required for the plant. Usually a mixture of urea and potassium sulfate is used. One tablespoon of these substances is diluted in 10 liters of water. For an adult hydrangea bush, about 5 liters of solution are needed. Sometimes slurry is used for irrigation, which is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10.

At the end of spring when the budding period begins, it is recommended to feed the plant with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.

Superphosphate gives the best results. One tablespoon of this substance is dissolved in 10 liters of water. You can also use any other mineral complex fertilizer.

During summer period when the plant is actively blooming, it is fed 2-3 times with special fertilizers for flowering garden plants. It is also useful to acidify the soil in the place where the bush grows.

To do this, use whey or citric acid. Serum is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:3. citric acid take on the tip of a tablespoon and dissolve in 10 liters of water.

At the beginning of autumn to strengthen the shoots and prepare for winter, potash-phosphorus fertilizers are applied. Dissolve 1 tablespoon of potassium sulfate and superphosphate in 10 liters of water and water the hydrangea bushes.

Now you know why the hydrangea does not bloom in the garden, but what if you have a houseplant?

Why hydrangea does not bloom indoors

In room conditions, the following reasons are possible, due to which the hydrangea refuses to bloom:

• Wrong choice of lighting;
• Unsuitable soil composition for the plant;
• Lack of moisture in the soil and in the air;
• Sharp jumps in temperature;
• Bush age.

For the plant in the room to bloom every year, it must be kept in a bright place, but direct sunlight should not fall on the leaves. With a lack of lighting or its excess, flowering most likely will not occur.

The plant loves acidic soil. Also for indoor varieties it doesn't have to be very heavy. Clay soil is not suitable.

It is better to choose a purchased fertile earthen mixture without clay, but with a small amount of peat. Also, one should not forget about the annual transplantation of the bush into a new soil, so that it blooms for a long time and abundantly.

The flower does not tolerate drying out of the soil and too dry air. For creating optimal conditions its growth and flowering, it is necessary to keep the earthen ball in the pot always wet, and spray the leaves with settled water.

Should not be allowed abrupt change temperature in the room where the flower grows. In such conditions, she does not grow buds. If the buds have already formed, then they can fall off from a sharp drop in temperature.

Over time, the plant, even with good care stops blooming. It is recommended to grow a bush for no more than 4-5 years, after which it is better to replace the plant with a young one. You can read more about caring for hydrangeas at home.