How to build a greenhouse. How to build a greenhouse to grow vegetables all year round. Types of greenhouses, their advantages and disadvantages

Purpose

Like a greenhouse, a greenhouse is used to create a favorable microclimate when preparing seedlings or when fully growing tomatoes, cucumbers, cabbage and other plants.

In a broad sense, both structures are perceived as one and the same, although in fact a greenhouse is a small and unheated structure. A greenhouse is a larger building with a heating and ventilation system, which allows for the cultivation of many crops at any time of the year.

Design

The structure of greenhouses is quite simple. A frame is assembled from pipes, metal or wood, which is covered with film, polycarbonate, glass, acrylic and other light-penetrating materials. If the weight of the structure is very large, it is additionally installed on the foundation.

For ventilation, removable panels or opening transoms are provided. Heating is carried out using water heating with radiators, infrared heaters or hot air from heat sources outside the greenhouse.

Installation

Since sunlight is vital for plants, the greenhouse should be built on the south side. It is advisable to place it on a slope and closer to other buildings in order to protect it from the wind and have access to engineering communications. It is better to stay away from high fences and trees: they provide shade, and falling leaves reduce light transmission.

youtube.com
  • Assembly difficulty: low.
  • Foundation: not required.
  • Price: not tall.
  • Variations: the frame can be replaced with plastic pipes, and the covering material with film.

The simplest design option, which is ideal for a small greenhouse. A frame made of reinforcement is installed directly on the bed, and agrofibre or, as it is also called, spunbond, is stretched over it. This material protects from the sun while retaining heat and moisture.

1. The dimensions of such a greenhouse are chosen arbitrarily, depending on the footage of available materials. For example, it is convenient to cut six-meter reinforcement in half. With such a length of arcs, the width of the greenhouse is about 80 cm. The arcs themselves should be installed in increments of 1.2–1.5 m.


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2. Arcs are bent from reinforcement with a diameter of 8 mm. Next, drip irrigation tubes are put on them or old hose, leaving 10–20 cm at each end so that it is convenient to insert the structure into the ground.


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3. After marking the installation locations for the arcs, scraps of steel pipes or drilled wooden pegs 20–30 cm long are driven into the ground, and the reinforcement is inserted into them.


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4. Spunbond can be stitched on a sewing machine, forming pocket folds that fit directly onto the arches. Another option is to install plastic pipe guides on the sides of the beds and attach agrofibre to them using purchased clips or cut pieces of pipes. The covering material can eventually be easily lifted by simply removing them.


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5. If desired, you can attach the arcs not to pipes driven into the ground, but to metal guides rigidly fixed at the edges of the base. This design will allow you to fold the greenhouse like an accordion, simply by moving the arcs.


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6. The free ends of the spunbond at the ends must be collected, tied in a knot and secured with a peg, earth or other means.


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Here are step-by-step video instructions.


dachadecor.com
  • Assembly difficulty: low.
  • Foundation: not required.
  • Price: not tall.
  • Variations: Instead of film, you can use agrofibre, and make the door on a wooden frame.

A budget option for a greenhouse made from masonry mesh and regular film, which is quickly assembled and has a number of advantages. The structure does not require a foundation; due to its elasticity, it is resistant to wind loads, and is also convenient for tying up plants from the inside. At the same time, by folding the mesh, you can get different sizes depending on your needs.

  1. Used as load-bearing posts wooden beam, steel angles, pipes or channels. They are hammered at a distance of 1.2–1.4 m.
  2. The greenhouse arch is formed from two pieces of mesh laid overlapping. From below it is attached with wire to the posts, and from above it is fastened together with the same wire or plastic ties.
  3. To strengthen the structure, T-shaped supports made of wooden beams 50 × 50 mm are installed in the middle of the passage. If desired, they can also be driven into the ground.
  4. A film is put on a dome assembled from a mesh, which is held in place by strings of twine or rope stretched over it.
  5. The side walls are also made of film, which is folded up and attached to the dome with tape. In several places at the top and bottom, small windows are cut for ventilation of the greenhouse.
  6. The door is made on a wooden frame or made from the same film, which is cut and attached to the side wall with magnets in the manner of door mosquito nets.


stroydachusam.ru
  • Assembly difficulty: average.
  • Foundation: not required.
  • Price: not tall.

Another way to build a greenhouse on a quick fix. A wooden beam is used as a frame, and stretch packaging film is used as a covering material. With a large number of layers, it transmits light a little worse than ordinary PVC film, but on hot days this is even a plus.

  1. The film is sold in rolls, so the dimensions of the greenhouse are selected according to the cutting of the timber and taking into account your wishes.
  2. For the base, steel corners 40 × 40 mm are used, in which holes for attaching the frame posts are pre-drilled. They can also be treated with bitumen or painted to extend their service life.
  3. The corners are driven into the ground, and pieces of timber are screwed to them with self-tapping screws. A lower frame, in turn, is attached to the beam, on which the side walls and roof are assembled. All corners are reinforced with additional inclined sections of timber.
  4. The door is assembled on a wooden frame in one of the side walls and installed on hinges.
  5. Film wrapping is done in parts, in several layers and overlapping. First, the gables are installed, then the roof slopes, and only then the walls. You need to start wrapping them from the bottom so that the flowing rainwater did not get inside the greenhouse.
  6. After wrapping with glazing bead or river, the door and its outer contour of the door are trimmed, and then the film around the frame is cut through. In the same way you can make a window in the opposite wall.


teplica-piter.ru
  • Assembly difficulty: average.
  • Foundation: desirable.
  • Price: minimal.
  • Variations: You can combine frames with film to make a roof, side walls or doors.

The main advantage of this design is its low cost. Old window frames can be found, if not for free, then for a symbolic price. In addition, glass transmits light much better than film and polycarbonate. The windows already have vents for ventilation, and if you select a balcony block, you will also have a ready-made door.

  1. The size of the greenhouse depends on the size of the frames and the interior space you need. Aim for a width of about 2.5 m to give a passage of about 60 cm and two beds of 80–90 cm each.
  2. Windows and glass have considerable weight, so it is advisable to install them on a solid base. It may be shallow strip foundation, solid wooden beam or metal profile.
  3. Installed on the foundation wooden frame or pillars in the corners, and frames are attached to them and to each other. The gaps between each block are covered with putty and clogged with strips of laminate backing or a thin wooden strip.
  4. A door is made in the front wall. Its role can be played by one of the windows, a balcony door or a wooden frame covered with film. Ventilation is provided through window vents.
  5. To reduce weight, it is better to make the roof from wooden beams and film. You can use the same window frames, but in this case you will have to reinforce the structure with supports in the middle of the passage so that it can withstand heavy weight.


maja-dacha.ru
  • Assembly difficulty: average.
  • Foundation: not required.
  • Price: not tall.
  • Variations: the film can be replaced with agrofibre or polycarbonate

A greenhouse made of polypropylene pipes attracts with its simplicity, reliability and low price. Materials are sold in any hardware store, and assembly does not require any special skills or tools. You can even do without a soldering iron if you connect the pipes not with fittings, but with through bolts.

  1. As always, sizes are selected based on needs and available materials. Polypropylene pipe is usually sold in 4 m sections, and it is easy to cut and splice using couplings.
  2. The first step is to calculate the length of the pipe and the number of fittings required. It’s better to take it with a reserve so that you don’t have to run to the store later.
  3. The main parts are soldered from pipes, tees and crosspieces - arches with crossbars and longitudinal inserts.
  4. Next, the greenhouse is assembled from the prepared parts. If a soldering iron is not at hand, you can use bolts with nuts and washers to connect, which are inserted into pipes drilled through.
  5. The film is secured to the edges of the frame using purchased pipe clamps or homemade clips made from slightly larger diameter pipes cut along sections.


legkovmeste.ru
  • Assembly difficulty: average.
  • Foundation: not required.
  • Price: not tall.
  • Variations: the film can be replaced with agrofibre or polycarbonate.

A classic version of a greenhouse, used for decades and not losing popularity. Wooden beams are easy to process, have low weight and sufficient strength, and also retain heat well. The structure does not require a capital foundation - you can get by with a frame made of timber of a larger cross-section or use steel corners as a base.

  1. The standard cutting of timber is 6 m, so they start from this figure. Most often, greenhouses are made 3 × 6 m, but if desired, the dimensions can be either reduced or increased. Ready project with material calculations available at this link.
  2. The assembly of the frame is the same as for a greenhouse made of stretch film. Steel corners are driven into the ground at intervals of about 1 m at the points where the posts are attached. In each of them, two holes are drilled for self-tapping screws or one for M8 or M10 bolts.
  3. Vertical posts are fixed to the corners along the entire perimeter, which are tied with an upper contour made of timber. To add rigidity in the corners, one jib is added on each side
  4. Triangular roof trusses are installed and secured opposite the racks. The slope angle is selected depending on the snow load. So, if there is a lot of snow in your region, the angle of inclination should be greater (the roof is higher and sharper).
  5. The door and window for ventilation are assembled on wooden frames and installed in the front and back wall respectively.
  6. At the end, the frame is covered with film, which is attached to the beam using a lath stuffed on top. All sharp parts on the wood are rounded off or covered with a soft material so that the film does not tear during operation.

  • Assembly difficulty: high.
  • Foundation: necessary.
  • Price: high.
  • Variations: the foundation can be made of wooden beams or used driven into the ground steel reinforcement, corner or pipes.

The most popular and modern version of the greenhouse. This design is much more expensive than others and is difficult to manufacture, but it will last for decades. Polycarbonate can withstand the open sun for 10–12 years, and the frame made of a profile steel pipe is almost eternal.

1. The standard size of polycarbonate is 2,100 × 6,000 mm, so it is convenient to cut it into four or two parts with dimensions of 2.1 × 1.5 m or 2.1 × 3 m, respectively. Such pieces will be optimal for a greenhouse measuring 3 × 6 meters.

2. For reliable fastening and distribution of wind loads, a foundation is made under the greenhouse. This can be a shallow strip foundation, a frame made of antiseptic-treated wooden beams, or steel corners driven into the ground.

YouTube channel of Evgeniy Kolomakin

3. The design of the greenhouse consists of an arch, which is formed using arcs from a profiled steel pipe 20 × 20 mm, located at a distance of one meter from each other.

4. The arcs are fastened together by longitudinal sections from the same pipe, which are connected by welding.

5. A door is installed at the front end: a frame measuring 1.85 × 1 m is welded from a pipe, which is attached to the frame on hinges. A window for ventilation measuring 1 × 1 m is made according to the same principle and is located at the rear end.

6. Covering with polycarbonate begins from the ends. The sheet is cut in half, attached to the profile using special self-tapping screws with thermal washers, and then trimmed along the contour of the arc with a sharp knife. After this, the side wall sheets are installed.


techkomplect.ru
  • Assembly difficulty: average.
  • Foundation: not required.
  • Price: not tall.

Simpler and affordable option greenhouses made of polycarbonate. It does not use expensive metal pipe that needs to be welded. And galvanized profiles for plasterboard systems are used as frame material. They are easily cut with metal scissors and fastened with ordinary self-tapping screws.

  1. When choosing sizes, as usual, we start from the parameters of polycarbonate sheets. Since the profiles lose rigidity when bent, it is better to choose a gable greenhouse rather than an arched one.
  2. By analogy with the arcs from metal pipe The frame is made of galvanized profile and is assembled from ribs in the form of a house.
  3. The assembled modules are installed on a frame made of wooden beams and tied together with sections of profiles. Doors and a window for ventilation are made in the front and rear walls.
  4. At the end, the frame is sheathed with polycarbonate sheets, which are secured using special self-tapping screws with plastic thermal washers.


juliana.ru
  • Assembly difficulty: high.
  • Foundation: necessary.
  • Price: high.
  • Variations: To make the structure lighter, you can make the top from polycarbonate or film.

The most correct, but rather labor-intensive and expensive option for a greenhouse. The main advantage of glass is excellent light transmittance and durability. However, due to the heavy weight of the structure, a strong metal frame and foundation are required. In addition to arranging a strip foundation, the difficulty also lies in the need to use welding.

  1. When it comes to choosing sizes, a glass greenhouse is no exception - everything is strictly individual and taking into account the available materials.
  2. The impressive weight of glass and metal frame requires a full foundation. Usually a trench 30 cm deep and 20 cm wide is dug around the perimeter, and a wooden formwork 20 cm high and all this is filled with concrete. Also, before pouring, anchor bolts are inserted into the formwork to secure the frame.
  3. A metal channel or corner is attached to the resulting base using anchors. Then racks 1.6–1.8 m high are welded to this frame from two folded corners 45 × 45 mm. At the top they are fastened with longitudinal sections of the corner.
  4. Next, rafters from the same double corners are placed on the resulting box. At the bottom they are welded to the posts, and at the top - to another corner, which acts as a ridge beam.
  5. A door is inserted into one of the walls, and a window is installed in the lid or wall for ventilation.
  6. The glass is installed in the frames obtained by using double corners and secured with homemade gluers - thin aluminum or steel plates bent in the shape of the letter Z. The gluer is attached to the corner with one hook, and to the glass with the second.


pinterest.com
  • Assembly difficulty: high.
  • Foundation: desirable.
  • Price: high.
  • Variations: the film can be replaced with polycarbonate or glass, and the frame can be made of profiles or pipes.

A domed or geodesic greenhouse attracts primarily with its unusual appearance: it consists entirely of many triangles and hexagons. Other advantages include high structural strength and best light transmittance. The geodesic dome has only one drawback: it is difficult to manufacture.

  1. The dimensions of such a greenhouse are selected individually, based on the required area. Since the frame design is quite complex, calculations are the most time-consuming part of the project.
  2. In order not to get confused and take into account all the nuances, it is convenient to carry out the calculation using a special calculator. In it you can set the dimensions, select the “thickness” of the frame and get a list of all necessary details for assembly with dimensions, as well as their approximate cost.
  3. Regardless of its dimensions, a domed greenhouse is highly durable and is not afraid of winds, so there is no need to make a foundation for it. However, since the construction of a structure is very labor-intensive, it is rational to extend its service life and equip a lightweight strip foundation for attaching the frame.
  4. The ribs of the structure consist of triangles, which, in turn, are assembled from wooden slats according to the template. First you need to prepare the required number of such triangles.
  5. The greenhouse is assembled like a magnetic construction set from childhood. Starting from the bottom, rows of triangles are assembled one after another, which are fastened together using self-tapping screws and form a dome. If everything is calculated correctly, it will close at the top and will be perfectly shaped.
  6. One of the triangles in the roof is made folding or removable to provide ventilation. The door is either installed in a polygon shape, or made in a traditional shape with a mortise frame.
  7. The film covers the finished dome or is stretched over each triangle at the assembly stage. In the first case, it will be easier to replace the film when it breaks. The second one gives a more aesthetic appearance. Which one to choose - decide for yourself.

Russia has vast territories that are located in different climatic zones. Climatic conditions in most parts of the country do not allow harvesting throughout the year.

The natural wisdom and ingenuity of the Russian people made it possible to significantly increase the growing season of plants. By productively using greenhouses of various shapes and designs, amateur gardeners have the opportunity to obtain early and late harvests.

A more competent approach to greenhouse construction will allow you to obtain crops throughout the year. In this article we will try to tell you how to make a greenhouse with your own hands.

Design features

A greenhouse made into reality, made with my own hands, takes important place on the summer resident's plot. A greenhouse made by yourself does not mean that it will be less effective in its functionality.

Photos and drawings of greenhouses for making with your own hands can be viewed and studied on thematic websites. The design of the greenhouse and its shape will depend on the purpose of the object.


The most popular materials for the construction of greenhouses are fiberglass or galvanized metal profile pipe, which performs the load-bearing role of the structure. Glass, polyethylene film, polycarbonate can be used as a coating.

Exterior of the greenhouse

Typically, a greenhouse is designed according to the botanical species of the plant. Factors such as the light transmission capacity of the covering material and maintaining the required temperature inside the room are taken into account.

The shape of the greenhouse is:

  • with one slope. This could be a winter garden or a greenhouse. A passage is provided along the entire length, usually adjacent to the southern wall of the house;
  • with two slopes. This is the most common form throughout Russia. Offers a variety of interior design options;
  • in the form of a drop. A fairly stable design, but difficult to install;
  • domed. It has a very impressive appearance with a modest consumption of materials;
  • polygonal shape. They look great in a garden plot and can easily withstand strong winds.


Classification of greenhouses

Objects that ensure the maintenance of an artificial climate within themselves can be classified as collapsible and stationary greenhouses. Folding greenhouses quickly occupied their niche in the market for gardeners.

The ultra-light frame has standardized parts that can be assembled and disassembled by a person without special training. The price of such a kit will not put serious pressure on the family budget.

The coating for this design is usually a special polyethylene film. If handled carefully, it can be used for several years.

Considered a kind of classic for summer residents stationary design greenhouses. In this case, the steel supporting frame rests on the foundation structure. Window windows are installed for ventilation, at equal intervals of wall glazing sections.

Greenhouses are also divided according to the type of characteristic features depending on the author of the project. The design of the greenhouse, the author of which is Kurdyumov, provides for watering the plants using the drip method. Greenhouses also have the ability to maintain the desired range of temperature and air humidity.

The greenhouse design, authored by Mittleider, is a durable structure made of natural wood. As a rule, such greenhouses are installed in the direction of the sun. This ensures better illumination for the plants.


Preparatory work

In order to make the simplest greenhouse by hand, it is necessary to carry out the necessary preparatory measures.

When choosing a location for a greenhouse, you should be guided by the fact that there is no interference with direct sunlight. The site should be as level as possible, and it is advisable to have protection from strong winds.

Please note that you will need water for irrigation and electricity for lighting. Therefore, the greenhouse should be located on the site within acceptable proximity to these sources.

Choosing material for the greenhouse frame

When considering the choice of material for the supporting structure of a greenhouse, it should be noted that each of them is good in its own way. The following materials are considered the most popular today:

Wood. Wooden structures are easy to manufacture and do not require professional skills. Antiseptic treatment of the structure is required.

Aluminum. The low specific gravity of the metal and sufficient strength give the frame an aesthetic appearance, stability and durability. The high price of the profile is the main obstacle to widespread use.

Plastic. Metal-plastic profile due to its small specific gravity, of sufficient strength, has gained popularity among summer residents. Relatively low price and high performance characteristics of steel business card this material.

Steel. Galvanized steel profiles are quite popular in the construction of greenhouses. Installation of a frame made of galvanized profile pipe does not require special training or equipment. Under such a frame it is necessary to arrange a strip foundation.

Installation of the supporting frame of the greenhouse and covering

A reliable frame design will be the key to protecting plants from the hot rays of the sun and heavy rains.

After the concrete in the foundation has gained the necessary strength, the frame elements can be prepared for assembly. The elements of the lower chord and the stand are connected to each other with bolts.

The elements of the upper chord and roof slopes are sequentially connected into a spatial structure with rigid connections. The entrance door is located on the leeward south side.

Effective swirl ventilation should be ensured by placing opening vents in the roof structure.

When covering a greenhouse with your own hands from polycarbonate, the sheets are attached to the frame with anodized steel screws. A rubber sealing gasket is placed between the polycarbonate sheet and the frame element.

Glass coating is the most traditional material. However, high operating costs have pushed it out of the greenhouse materials market.

Film coating is characterized by low price and ease of use. It should be noted the low durability of this material.

Plumbing, electricity, greenhouse heating

After the greenhouse frame, covering, ventilation are completed, installation can begin. electrical network, heating and water supply.

Considering that the humidity in the greenhouse will be high, all electrical work must be performed taking into account the requirements of the relevant standards and rules for performing special work.

Can be considered as a heat source for the room stove heating, electric energy, gas. The issue of efficiency will depend on the regional location of the facility.


For productive work, it is advisable to bring water into the greenhouse. For this, a plastic pipe with a diameter of 1.5 inches is usually used. The riser is located at the entrance to the room.

DIY greenhouse photo

Many owners of private houses dream of having a greenhouse on their property. This agricultural structure will help owners provide their family with herbs and some types of vegetables already in late spring or early summer. Well, some greenhouse designs, which include heating and lighting systems, are used for growing crops all year round.

A greenhouse with your own hands can be built from wood and brick in combination with metal elements, or have a frame structure, for example, made of lightweight metal-plastic pipes.

When implementing an idea, the first thing to determine is the location where the greenhouse will be installed. The size of the future structure directly depends on its area.

Next, you need to decide when this structure will be used - only in the spring or throughout the year. If you choose the “winter” option, then you need to know that construction will cost much more, since it will require more materials, and will also require lighting, heating, plumbing and ventilation.

Then, you need to select the material of manufacture and type of greenhouse construction. To focus on one of them, several of the most commonly used options will be considered.

Types of greenhouses

The design of greenhouses, in principle, is not very complicated, so any owner of the site can build it independently. To do this, you just need to prepare the material and tools. Greenhouses can be divided by type, starting from various criteria- this is the material of manufacture, the form of the structure, whether it will be stationary or temporary.

Greenhouse covering material

Several different types of materials are used to cover greenhouses. They should be transparent and may have shades favorable for plant growth. For example, which became especially popular in Lately, sometimes not only a colorless transparent one is chosen, but also a yellowish or green tint.


The KINPLAST company offers high-quality cellular polycarbonate for greenhouses. The material has excellent technical and performance characteristics. KINPLAST is a leading manufacturer of polycarbonate in the domestic market. Lined up cellular polycarbonate includes brands such as WOGGEL - material created in collaboration with foreign colleagues; SKYGLASS is a universal polycarbonate with excellent performance characteristics. affordable price; as well as specially developed grades of polycarbonate for use in agriculture AgroTITAN.

Glass is often used to cover the walls and roof of a greenhouse. Due to its structural structure and transparency, it is excellent for this room, but to install glazing it is necessary to create a particularly reliable, durable frame structure, since this material has considerable weight. Capital winter greenhouses are sometimes built from metal-plastic frames and double-glazed windows, but such a structure will be extremely expensive.


Another option that is most often used for covering greenhouses is plastic film. It can be used for tensioning on a frame built from any material, since it has a very small mass. Recently, a special reinforced film has appeared on sale, which is more durable and easier to attach to the frame sheathing.


To decide on the choice of material, you need to carefully study its performance characteristics, which are presented in this table:

Material Evaluation OptionsCellular polycarbonateGlassFilm
Miniature
Mounting and weight It is light in weight and certain designs can be used without additional frame elements, as well as without a foundation.Glass has the heaviest weight compared to other covering materials, and when choosing it, you will need to consider a reliable frame installed on the foundation.Polyethylene has a very small mass, but requires special fastening.
If the material is not reinforced, then it is secured to the frame through special slats and additionally secured with thin stretched ropes.
Durability Polycarbonate as a greenhouse covering can last 18–25 years, depending on its quality.
This material is flexible and has sufficient rigidity to be an element of a self-supporting structure.
Fixed to the frame, it does not deform and does not distort.
Glass can last a long time as it is not affected by ultraviolet rays and moisture.
On the other hand, glass is a fragile and inflexible material, therefore it does not tolerate mechanical stress, heavy loads and deformation of the frame structure.
Polyethylene has the shortest service life compared to other coating materials, as it is exposed to ultraviolet radiation, from which it gradually deteriorates.
In addition, it cannot be called resistant to temperature changes.
Noise insulation Cellular polycarbonate dampens the noise of wind and rain well, thanks to its structure.If the installation of the material is done poorly, then during strong winds gusts of air can penetrate inside and the glass can make a ringing sound.The film will not protect the greenhouse from noise, and if the wind is very strong, the material will rustle a lot in the wind.
Appearance Polycarbonate gives the building an aesthetic appearance and can make an ordinary greenhouse a real decoration of the territory.Properly installed glass will give the greenhouse a neat appearance. appearance. The film looks neat and remains transparent only during the first season of its use, and even then not always.
Then, under the influence of the sun, temperature changes and wind, it becomes cloudy and loses its aesthetic appearance and light transmittance.
Safety Polycarbonate has high strength, exceeding that of glass by approximately 200 times, and is also approximately 15 times lighter.
When falling, the material does not break and cannot injure people inside or near the greenhouse with fragments.
Poorly installed glass is extremely dangerous for people working inside.
In addition, if fragments fall into the soil of the greenhouse, you can be seriously injured during subsequent cultivation of the soil.
Therefore, if you plan to install glass, then it is recommended to entrust its installation to professional craftsmen.
Completely safe for both people and greenhouse soil.
Care This material is easy to care for - just wash it with water using a strong pressure in the hose.
However, it should be noted that dust on the surface of polycarbonate is almost invisible, so the greenhouse does not have to be washed often enough.
Traces of rain drops remain on the glass, and dust is also retained well.
To get rid of dirt on the surface, you need to make a lot of physical effort.
It is especially uncomfortable and dangerous to carry out cleaning activities on the greenhouse roof.
The polyethylene film is not washed, because after wet cleaning Stains remain on it and it becomes cloudy, which makes it difficult for light to fully penetrate inside.
The only way out in case of severe contamination is complete replacement films.
Created microclimate Polycarbonate is able to reliably thermally insulate a greenhouse and protect plants from the wind.
Vapors settling on internal surfaces, flow down them into the soil.
In addition, the material not only transmits light perfectly, but also makes it softer and more diffused.
The heat generated by the soil and plants is reliably stored indoors, which creates the greenhouse effect.
Glass is not capable of creating high thermal insulation, unless it is metal-plastic structures with double-glazed windows.
The material perfectly transmits light, but does not scatter it, and sometimes even focuses it on a specific bed, which is extremely harmful for plant leaves.
Dense new polyethylene film is capable of creating high thermal insulation, but over the course of a season, under the influence of temperatures, sun and wind, it becomes thinner and loses its original qualities.
Therefore, it is recommended to change the film coating every year.

Having weighed all the “pros” and “cons” of materials, as well as taking into account the design of the planned structure, it will be possible to make a choice of the type of coating.

Greenhouse structures

Greenhouses have different designs - it can be a spacious room or just a large box covered with a glazed frame. Structures are also used that extend half their height into the ground. It will be possible to choose one of the varieties only after the owner understands the features of each.

  • The most simple design greenhouse, which can be built from scrap materials, consists of an ordinary box, for example, 2000x1500 mm in size, assembled from boards and installed in a favorable area local area. For such a greenhouse, old ones are often used as a roof.

Such greenhouses are usually used for growing seedlings or herbs with early spring until late autumn.

  • Another option for a simple and affordable greenhouse to build is a simple frame construction, made of metal-plastic or polypropylene pipes, fittings, and sometimes even thick steel wire, covered plastic film.

If you choose for a greenhouse plastic pipes, then it’s even possible to make a frame from them female hands, since this material bends quite easily and holds its shape well.

This type of greenhouse can be used throughout the entire spring-summer season, from spring to late autumn. The convenience of the design is that by planting seeds, for example, tomatoes, under the film, after germination and strengthening, the seedlings do not need to be replanted. It is simply thinned out, and when a stable and comfortable temperature for plants is established outside, the film is removed from the structure, opening the free flow of air and sunlight. In very hot weather, a special mesh can be quickly thrown over the created frame, creating partial shade, but allowing light to penetrate to the plants as needed.

  • A more complex structure, which is assembled from wooden beams and covered with film, can also be used throughout the spring-summer season. The size of such a greenhouse can be different - they vary from how many seedlings are planned to be planted, and taking into account the convenience of the gardener’s work.

In this design, it is imperative to provide a hinged lifting of the roof to provide access to the plants from sunlight and air. This is also a seasonal version of the structure, and it is advisable to use it only for growing seedlings, since in stable summer temperatures it is recommended to grow vegetables and herbs in open ground.

Video: homemade greenhouse on a wooden frame with film coating

  • If you need to grow a small amount of greenery or seedlings, you can make a greenhouse from a metal barrel, in which slots are made in the form of windows. This design uses a transparent polyethylene film as a roof - it can be removed at any time, opening access to air, and, if necessary, closed so that the night coolness of the off-season does not cause harm to the plants.

  • A more complex greenhouse design, in which you can already install moderate heating and start using it yourself in early spring. It consists of a wooden or metal-plastic frame. This is already a full-fledged room, and in it not only the plants, but also the gardener will be protected from the wind and low temperatures. Such a greenhouse can be covered with a very dense polyethylene film or cellular polycarbonate. When creating a structure from pipes, you need to remember that it will turn out to be quite light, and a strong wind can move it from its place, damaging the seedlings, so to tie it to the place, you need to drive metal corners or reinforcement into the ground.

Interesting solution— the frame of the greenhouse is welded from very inexpensive polypropylene pipes and components for them.
  • The permanent structure of the greenhouse, equipped with heating and irrigation, can be used throughout the year. For such a greenhouse to work effectively, it is usually made of metal-plastic or aluminum structures and double-glazed windows, which are installed on the foundation.

This greenhouse is already a real capital building

To more easily provide heating and water delivery to the greenhouse premises, quite often such structures are attached to the southern wall of the house. In this case, the structure will serve as a kind of winter garden, which at any time of the year will delight the owners not only fresh vegetables and greenery, but also the color of ornamental plants.


Sometimes greenhouses are added to the south side of the house, and they become real “winter gardens”
  • Another option winter greenhouse, the design of which helps to save on heating costs, is a room that extends half its height into the ground. This structure, due to its high energy-saving qualities, is often called a “thermos greenhouse”. To achieve the desired effect, a pit is dug for this greenhouse, going 1600÷2000 mm deep into the ground. Additionally, walls 500÷700 mm high are erected above the ground surface, and then the entire structure is covered with a frame made of timber or a metal corner.

The work of constructing a building is quite labor-intensive and lengthy, but during its operation it will be possible to save enough on its heating system. One of the important points in the construction of a thermos greenhouse is the arrangement of not only a heating system, but also effective ventilation.

Greenhouse roof shape

The next criterion by which greenhouses are divided is the shape of the roof. Insolation largely depends on this, that is quality lighting premises, and therefore the creation of optimal conditions for growing plants.

  • Gable roof

Greenhouses with a gable roof can most often be found on suburban areas, since it is precisely this shape that contributes to effective lighting of the room from above. Provided the greenhouse is located correctly, the sun will “work” all day long from sunrise to sunset, promoting plant growth.


“Classic” option - gable roof

Therefore, this design is often used to create winter versions of greenhouses, since at this time of year plants experience a lack of sunlight.

  • Arched design

Arched structures are made of metal-plastic pipes or metal elements. The first ones are usually covered with polyethylene film, while the second option most often has a polycarbonate coating. Metal constructions can be purchased ready-made, and all that remains is to assemble them on the site. Well, a frame made of metal-plastic pipes is quite easy to make yourself.


The convenience of such a greenhouse lies not only in its maximum illumination, but also in the fact that snow and water do not accumulate on the arched roof, which means that the coating will not be subject to deformation due to heavy load. Again, you will not need to climb to a height to remove snow from its surface.

  • Shed roof

One of the common options for a “serious” greenhouse is a strip foundation
  • Under it, according to the markings, a pit-trench is dug, having a depth and width of 300 mm.
  • Since the walls of the greenhouse are not as heavy as those of residential buildings, a foundation depth of 300 mm is sufficient to withstand relatively light loads.
  • Above the ground, the base can be raised to a height of 200 to 500 mm, depending on whether the foundation will serve as walls or whether they will be made of brick.
  • A sand cushion 50÷70 mm thick is placed and compacted into the finished trench, and crushed stone is poured on top of it with a layer of the same thickness and distributed.
  • A formwork made of boards and timber is fixed along the trench, into which roofing material is laid, which will become an excellent waterproofing for the foundation.
  • The next step is to fill the formwork with concrete, spread it, and then pierce it with a bayonet shovel and gently tap the formwork to remove air from the solution.
  • If the frame is made from a metal corner or it is needed to secure wooden blocks, then sometimes support posts or sections of the corner can be immediately embedded in the foundation.
Basis for greenhouse-thermos

For a thermos greenhouse, it is necessary to dig a fairly deep pit, and if you plan to build an agricultural structure of a large area, you will have to use specialized equipment, since such manual work will take a lot of time.


  • After marking the site, it is recommended to remove the top layer from it. fertile soil. After removal, the soil is piled up, because it is perfect for laying the finished greenhouse in the beds.
  • When digging a pit, among the layers you can stumble upon clay, which also should not be mixed with the rest of the soil, as it can be useful for waterproofing walls or making adobe blocks for insulating a greenhouse.
  • The pit is deepened so much that the gardener working in the greenhouse feels free, and there is enough space left above it. free space. To be preserved in the greenhouse desired temperature, and the soil did not freeze, it is recommended to deepen the pit by approximately 2000 mm.

If the pit is not deep enough, then you will have to raise the side walls, since it will be ideal when the total height of the pit corresponds to the height of the gardener.

  • The width of the greenhouse is usually from two to five meters. If the room is made wider, it will quickly cool down, and lighting and heating will require a large amount of electricity. In addition, the design of a transparent dome would be too complex.
  • When digging a pit, a ramp is installed on one side of it, where, along with the construction of the walls, a staircase of several steps and an entrance door to the greenhouse will be installed.
  • To begin work on upgrading the walls, a base is made for them. To do this, a trench is dug around the perimeter inside the pit. After this, formwork is installed in it and the strip foundation is poured in the same way as in the case already considered.
  • After the foundation is ready, you can proceed to lining the walls with bricks or foam blocks. When making masonry in the opposite direction front door one or two are installed on the wall at once ventilation pipes, at a height of 400÷500 mm from the floor.

The ventilation pipe is brought outside and raised above the ground by 1000÷1500 mm.

  • Separately, it is necessary to say about the laying, since in this case it is produced in a special way.

— To save on insulation, instead of bricks or foam blocks, which are not cheap, you can use clay extracted from a pit, which is mixed with chopped straw and adobe bricks are formed from this mixture.

— If you don’t want to waste time, and there is an opportunity to purchase foam blocks, which are called permanent formwork, then you can immediately get “bricks with insulation.” The blocks are hollow, and they are filled as they are installed on top of each other concrete mortar. Having chosen the latter option, you will need to separate the foam wall from the ground surface of the pit with roofing material or plastic film.

After the solution in the blocks has hardened, a film or roofing felt is hooked onto it, and the gap remaining between the waterproofing material and the ground wall of the pit is filled with clay or a mixture of clay and soil, and while filling, it is periodically compacted.

— If brick is chosen for wall decoration, then it is insulated from the outside using polystyrene foam, which is mounted between the brick and soil wall. Thermal insulation material must also be protected with roofing felt. The resulting gap, just as in the first case, is filled with soil.

  • If the walls rise above the ground by 400÷600 mm, then they also need to be insulated and waterproofed. If desired, the wall protruding above the ground can be finished with a decorative coating - this can be clinker tiles or plastic lining for street use.
  • If the walls are not high, then after waterproofing they can be sprinkled with a layer of expanded clay, which is covered on top with corrugated sheeting, which is fixed to the top of the wall. The corrugated sheeting will ensure the drainage of water that will drain from the greenhouse cover and keep the walls dry.
Wooden foundation

Another material for the foundation can be wood, or rather, a wooden beam with a cross-sectional size of 100×150 or 150×150 mm. This foundation is suitable for a greenhouse that is used seasonally - from spring to autumn.


In order for such a foundation to serve for a long time, the wood must be treated with antiseptic and water-repellent compounds and place it on a sandy, well-compacted cushion. Another option is to raise it above the ground using concrete slabs.


Construction of a thermos greenhouse

The installation of all greenhouses takes place differently, depending on the type of structure and the period of use of the structure, since “winter” options require a more careful approach and additional functions. It’s probably worth considering this, the most difficult option.


  • After the walls are ready, you can proceed to installing the frame under the greenhouse cover.
  • The frame is mounted from a metal profile or wooden beam.

  • The first step is to attach a frame made of 100x150 mm timber to the walls of the greenhouse. Fixation is carried out anchor fastenings or using embedded embedded elements.
  • The rafter system must be assembled from timber of the same cross-section as the harness. For installation rafter legs markings are carried out on the harness, since rafter pairs must be distributed at equal distances from each other.
  • The rafters are secured to the frame metal corners, and in the upper part they are connected to each other using metal plates or using a ridge board.
  • Wooden sheathing bars are fixed to the rafters, but with a fairly large step. There should be no more than two or three of them on each slope so that they do not block the sunlight.
  • Polycarbonate sheets are laid on the sheathing, which are secured to it using special fasteners with bushings and rubber gaskets to prevent the possibility of leakage.

  • Having completed the fastening of the covering material to the slopes, it is installed in the same way on the gable parts of the roof.
  • After this, it is installed door frame and the door itself. It is desirable that the door leaf is also equipped with a transparent insert.

Creating optimal conditions for plants in the greenhouse

Greenhouse thermal insulation

In a greenhouse with a gable roof, one of its slopes must face the south side. It is recommended to finish the second side inside the greenhouse. Such a system will help not only retain heat, but even increase illumination inside the structure, since the sun, hitting the insulation foil, will be reflected into the room.


The insulation is fixed to the rafters with self-tapping screws, then it is bent onto the wall and glued to its surface using liquid nails. All the walls of the greenhouse are insulated in the same way, only the transparent southern slope is left uninsulated, and the western end transparent side of the structure can be left.

It should be noted that foil foamed polyethylene is an excellent vapor barrier membrane, and can not only enhance the lighting of the greenhouse, but also retain water vapor and carbon dioxide inside it, which are the main nutrient medium for photosynthesis, which determines the growth and development of plants.

In order to prevent heat from escaping from the greenhouse, it is necessary to create a reliable seal in the greenhouse space. To do this on ventilation holes You should definitely install doors or valves on which you can set the required gap as necessary or close them completely.

Greenhouse heating system

2. The infiltration coefficient depends on the difference between the external and internal temperatures in the greenhouse. You can use the following table:

3. Temperature inside the greenhouse (indicated in the formula t1), is usually taken equal to:

If any are grown exotic plants, then the corresponding values ​​are accepted.

4. External temperature ( t2) are accepted based on the results of meteorological observations in a particular region - the minimum during the coldest week during the planned season of use of the greenhouse.

5. Thermal conductivity indicators ( wtp), that is, the amount of thermal energy that is transferred outward by a covering area of ​​1 m² with a temperature difference of 1 ° C, depends on the type of material and its thickness. The table below shows the values ​​for the most commonly used materials for covering stationary greenhouses:

MaterialThermal conductivity (W/m²×°C)
Glass:
- thickness 4 mm;5.82
- thickness 6 mm;5.77
- thickness 8 mm;5.71
Monolithic polycarbonate sheet:
- thickness 4 mm;5.33
- thickness 6 mm;5.09
- thickness 8 mm;4.84
Polycarbonate sheet honeycomb:
- thickness 4 mm;3.6
- thickness 6 mm;3.5
- thickness 8 mm;3.3
- thickness 10 mm;3.0
- thickness 16 mm;2.4

Having all the necessary data, it will not be difficult to calculate the required electrical heating power of the greenhouse. It’s even easier to use the online calculator below.

A greenhouse is essentially a unique part of your garden, because the vagaries of nature have no power over it. A greenhouse will allow you to grow vegetables in winter or admire the plants and flowers of your winter garden all year round. And it’s especially nice when it’s made with your own hands. After all, the harvest harvested in it will be especially tasty, and it is also important that by building a greenhouse with your own hands, you will save a considerable amount. Of course, a number of questions immediately arise. What types of greenhouses are there and which one to choose? Where is the best place to put it? Which material to choose? But don't worry, we will answer all these questions and more. So, how to build a greenhouse with your own hands.

First of all, it is worth noting that buildings intended for growing plants are divided into greenhouses and greenhouses. A greenhouse is a more solid and complex structure. It usually has a foundation, walls and roof made of various materials. The design of a greenhouse is much simpler, it is small and mobile. A greenhouse is, in principle, not intended for the entire plant growth cycle. It is designed for growing seedlings, which are then planted in the ground.

Greenhouses are primarily divided into summer (seasonal) and winter (permanent).

Winter greenhouse

It is better to place a winter greenhouse closer to the communications of your home. Since the heating system must be run from them. Of course, you can heat the greenhouse with a stove, but this will be too troublesome. The stove must be constantly lit to maintain a stable temperature level. A capital greenhouse will definitely require a strong foundation and supports to withstand all weather factors.

Here we should also mention a thermos greenhouse, deepened into the ground several meters. But these greenhouses are built much less frequently due to their high labor intensity and cost. For it it is necessary to dig a pit, make strong foundation and walls made of thermoblocks, let down heating system and much more.

Summer greenhouse

Summer greenhouses usually mean greenhouses covered with dense polyethylene. This is the simplest and cheapest option for covering a greenhouse, which will last a couple of seasons if used carefully. Usually, either a wooden frame or a frame of PVC pipes is constructed, onto which a film is attached in the spring. A large selection of inexpensive seasonal greenhouses is also available for sale. They have an easily foldable, non-bulky design, which will be easy to hide at the end of the season if necessary.

According to their shape, greenhouses are divided into:

  • arched
  • single-pitched
  • gable
  • Mittlider greenhouse
  • domed greenhouses
  • polygonal

Arched greenhouse It has an arched roof shape, thanks to which the sun's rays will be evenly distributed over the entire area and, accordingly, the plants will receive maximum sunlight and heat. Also, this shape prevents the accumulation of large amounts of snow, so it is not in danger of deformation, and your work will be reduced.

Lean greenhouses Usually they are attached on one side to any solid building on the site. Perhaps the ideal option would be to attach it to the south side of a heated residential building. In this option, you will save not only space on your site, but also energy for heating. But in this option, unlike the previous one, snow can accumulate, so you should be careful during snowfalls.

And the most common today - gable greenhouses. They can be both winter and summer. The main advantage of these greenhouses is their size. There is plenty of space here for you and your plants. In such a greenhouse, some part of the area can even be allocated as a recreation area.

Form Mittlider greenhouses usually based on gable construction(less often arched). But still, we singled it out as a separate type because of its unique two-level roof, which allows you to make a transom (windows in the picture below). The transom in this case is a full-fledged ventilation system, eliminating all the disadvantages of ventilation of other types of greenhouses. It not only ventilates, but also supplies the plants with the carbon dioxide they need for nutrition.

Domed greenhouse is more of a design element than a fully functional greenhouse. However, it is perfect for growing flowers and will look great in a snowy garden. Still, it is worth noting that the domed shape provides a number of significant advantages. Among them, it is worth noting durability and stability, and most importantly, good illumination throughout the day. The disadvantage is its small size, which is why it is often not very convenient to work with. Such a greenhouse is difficult to manufacture, so they usually buy ready-made structures.

Polygonal greenhouses As a rule, they have an octagonal shape, which gives them a number of advantages, but also makes their construction more expensive and labor-intensive. The advantages include an attractive appearance, which makes them a real decoration of the garden, as well as a number of practical qualities. It is convenient to install shelving and work in them, but, most importantly, at least one of the eight sides is always at the best angle to the sun.

Choosing a location for a greenhouse

The effectiveness of a greenhouse will largely depend on its location. Please note the following:

  1. If you are planning a solid greenhouse, then to ensure necessary conditions plants (lighting, wind) build it from west to east.
  2. The amount of soil, as well as its slope, plays a big role. The greenhouse should only be placed on level ground. If the soil is clayey, it must first be sprinkled with gravel, and then a layer of fertile soil must be added. You should not install the greenhouse in a low area, on sandy soil, in marshy areas.
  3. Considering the need for communications, remember the proximity to the house. As mentioned above, a good option may be to attach a greenhouse to a house or another building not far from it. This, for example, will facilitate heating and protection from wind and will be beneficial when small area plot. Most importantly, do not forget that this building should not interfere with access to the sun.
  4. To improve the temperature regime, deepen the greenhouse by 70-80 centimeters. When deepening, it is worth remembering about low-growing plants, since if they are deepened too much, they may not receive enough light.
  5. Do not place the greenhouse close to trees, they will create unnecessary shade for the plants.

Greenhouse frame

One of the key elements of the greenhouse design that ensures its strength and stability is the frame. There are three most common and popular types of frames: metal, wood, plastic (PVC). Briefly about each of them:

  • Plus wooden frame is the convenience of its construction and more possibilities for improvisation. To protect against weather factors, the wood will require mandatory processing, but despite this, the wooden frame will still be inferior in terms of durability to the other two. The main advantage of this material is its environmental friendliness.
  • Metal carcass stands out for its durability. There is no need to worry about it during strong winds or snowfall. Exist different variants metal frames, but if you choose steel profile, remember the need for anti-corrosion coating.
  • PVC frame considered reliable and safe. The strength of this frame will primarily depend on the thickness of the selected profile. Using polyvinyl chloride (PVC), you can create a completely sealed system in your greenhouse and control the microclimate in it as you wish.

Covering for greenhouse

For reliable protection plants will be required good material for covering the greenhouse. The most common are: glass, various types of film and products made from the same PVC.

When choosing glass for a greenhouse, keep in mind that it must be highly durable to withstand all weather disasters. Best choice Will be tempered glass or triplex. If it is not possible to install one of these options, installing several glasses may be an option.

Film- the most popular option for covering a greenhouse today. With the right choice and proper care, it can last a long time. Nowadays, various types of film are produced specifically for greenhouses and greenhouses. For example:

  • Reinforced film is a particularly strong material that helps protect plants from frost. Most often, gardeners choose it.
  • Light converting film - transforms ultraviolet radiation into infrared, which in turn promotes plant growth.

PVC products- this is cellular and monolithic polycarbonate and acrylic plastic that transmits light well. Polycarbonate is increasingly in demand. It has a number of noticeable advantages:

  • relatively low price;
  • material flexibility;
  • does not fade and looks aesthetically pleasing;
  • good thermal insulation due to the air gap;
  • resistant to temperature changes and other weather factors;
  • lightness of the material, which allows you not to build an impressive frame and foundation for it;
  • dissipates sunlight well;
  • ease of installation and dismantling;
  • durability.

How to build a greenhouse with your own hands

Before building a greenhouse, you must have a clear idea of ​​the future construction. To do this, you need to draw up a diagram of the greenhouse, calculate the amount of material needed and, of course, prepare the place. To give you an idea of ​​the progress of construction, let's look at a visual example of the construction of one of the greenhouse options.

Aluminum pipes are used for the frame of the greenhouse.

To give the pipes the required shape, we use a simple pipe bender.

Obviously, if you are using PVC pipes, this step will not be necessary.

The result should be the following.

In our example, larger diameter pipes are used to secure the arches of the greenhouse frame. They are driven to a depth of 40-50 cm. The height of the pipes above the ground should be about 30-40 cm.

Instead of pipes of larger diameter, conventional fittings with the same dimensions can be used for fastening. It is driven into the ground in the same way, and the frame arches are put on top.

We install boards (plinth) along the perimeter, pre-treated with an antiseptic. Then we drill a hole through the board and both pipes. Then securely fasten it with bolts. We fasten the boards to each other with metal jumpers.

Using a wooden beam, we assemble the frames of the “fronts”.

We fasten the transverse arcs with a longitudinal pipe.

We cover the wooden frame with siding or plain plywood, and then paint it.

We cover all potentially sharp and rough edges so as not to tear the film.

All that remains is to install the door and cover the greenhouse with film. Let's talk in more detail about film mounting options.

Attaching the film to the greenhouse

We list the most popular mounting options:

  • Wooden slats nailed or screwed with self-tapping screws. Alternatively, instead of slats, you can use cut linoleum or packing tape, and fasten them with a construction stapler. But this option is better used for reinforced film, since other types will inevitably tear from gusts of wind over time.
  • Clamps, clips. Now there is a large selection of such mounts, so purchasing them will not be a problem. But if you wish, you can make them yourself, for example, from PVC pipes. It's not difficult at all, and with a little experimentation, you're sure to make the right ones. If you purchase metal clips, be sure to place something under them, as the metal can damage the film when heated in the sun.
  • The mesh is the safest mounting option. After we cover the greenhouse with film, we lay a mesh on top of it, which is tied to the body. Of course, some additional film mount, at least minimal, must be present. Otherwise after each heavy rain you will have to correct it. Instead of a net, in principle, a rope can be used, although this is more troublesome.

We have discussed with you, we hope that this article was useful to you.

On summer cottages you can find various forms of greenhouses in which both vegetables and flower plants. Thanks to this, you can grow non-seasonal crops throughout the year. The success of the business will depend not only on the design of the greenhouse, but also on what material was used in its manufacture. Our goal is to tell you what types of greenhouses there are, and what material can be used in their construction, and we will also look at how the process of constructing a greenhouse on a summer cottage occurs.

Depending on the design features, greenhouses can be:

  • arched;
  • single-pitched;
  • gable.

The design of the first type is characterized by a roof in the form of an arc, which allows plants growing inside the greenhouse to receive more daylight. The big advantage of this form will be the absence of snow in winter, so you will not be in danger of deformation or breakage of the structure.

If you decide to install a greenhouse close to any country house building, then the option with a pitched roof is suitable for you. This model is very economical, since, in addition to reducing the cost of materials, you also save free space on the site. The only drawback of this design will be the accumulation of snow in winter, which will have to be cleared off to protect the structure from deformation.

The most common option is the gable form of the greenhouse, which is very spacious for plants and people. In some cases, summer residents equip a kind of recreation area in such buildings, which allows them to combine business with pleasure.

Types of greenhouses, their advantages and disadvantages

Today, summer residents have several options for materials that can be used to cover greenhouses and greenhouses. They differ in their structure, price and performance characteristics, so you can choose the material according to your capabilities and requirements.

The most popular material for covering greenhouses will be:

  • glass;
  • polycarbonate;
  • film.

If you are not limited in funds, then the best option there will be glass and polycarbonate greenhouses, which differ in their strength and performance characteristics. Film is a budget option for greenhouses that has been used for several decades.

You can see what your greenhouse should be like in the video below:

Advantages and disadvantages of greenhouses made of various materials

To figure out which material is better for greenhouses, it is necessary to consider the advantages and disadvantages of each of them.

Glass

This material is considered the most suitable option.

Its advantages include:

  • transparency, which allows you to provide the greenhouse with daylight;
  • resistance to chemicals, even if they get on glass, they are easily washed off;
  • when exposed to sunlight, the material does not emit harmful toxic substances;
  • wind resistance.

Its disadvantages include:


Polycarbonate

Polycarbonate is a polymer plastic that is increasingly used in greenhouse coverings.

Its advantages include:

  • strength;
  • transparency;
  • high thermal insulation rates;
  • protection of plants from UV rays;
  • ease of care.

Its disadvantages are:


Film

This material is distinguished by its ease of use and budget-friendly qualities, especially since the experience of using such material has been confirmed for decades.

Its advantages include:


Its disadvantages include:

  • windage;
  • poor resistance to frost, which is why it has to be removed after summer use;
  • short service life.

DIY greenhouse construction

Summer residents are forced to build greenhouses for growing vegetable or flower crops, firstly, to get a harvest earlier than usual, secondly, to grow crops that are not suitable for a particular climate, and thirdly, to increase the amount of harvest.

Greenhouses allow you to create favorable conditions for the growth of any plants. If it is not possible to purchase finished design, then you can always build it yourself, using all your skills.

The first question you will have is where to start? So that you don’t have to rack your brains for a long time, we have drawn up an action plan for you, following which you can easily build a greenhouse on your site.

Place for a greenhouse

The first thing you need is to choose a place to locate the greenhouse. To do this correctly, pay attention to the following requirements:


Dimensions and shape of the greenhouse

The second issue you need to decide is the size of the greenhouse. To calculate everything correctly, think about how much and what you will plant in the greenhouse. If you plan to plant tall plants, then the best shape of the greenhouse will be arched or gable, the height of which will provide you convenient care for crops. You can calculate the dimensions yourself, or take as a basis the proposed version of a rectangular greenhouse with a gable roof.

The base of the greenhouse can be anything, round, square, rectangular or trapezoidal, it all depends on your capabilities.

Greenhouse frame

The frame is the main part of the greenhouse, so special requirements are imposed on the choice of material. It must be strong and durable, so for its manufacture choose:

  • galvanized profile;
  • steel profile;
  • profile made of galvanized steel, with a square section;
  • wooden beams.

The choice of material also depends on your capabilities; even the most budget option - wood - can last quite a long time.

How to make a greenhouse from cellular polycarbonate can be seen in the video:

Greenhouse foundation

In addition to its direct purpose, the foundation plays the role of a pocket in which several high beds are placed. If its construction was carried out incorrectly, this can lead not only to its destruction, but also to cracking of the greenhouse coating. To avoid this, you need to listen to our advice:

It is necessary to install formwork around this trench, lay metal reinforcement bars in it and fill it all with concrete. The height of the foundation must be at least 20 cm.

By following these rules you will create a strong and reliable foundation under the greenhouse, which will not be subject to ground movement.

Frame production and coating

The manufacture of the frame begins with marking the future greenhouse. You have already calculated what size your structure will be and even poured a foundation for it, now you can start assembling the main structure:


Ventilation

Inside the greenhouse, under the influence of sunlight, a greenhouse effect is created. To create an ideal microclimate for plants, greenhouses must be equipped with a ventilation system.

Ventilation can be provided by vents located on the sides of the greenhouse or doors. Ventilation helps plants planted in a greenhouse get sick less after being transplanted into open ground. But drafts must be avoided so as not to harm them.

When placing such vents in the roof of the greenhouse, you can ensure movement warm air to the street, and open doors, will ensure the passage of cool air. There will be no draft, and the air will change.

If you have a small greenhouse, then for good air exchange two vents located on the roof of the greenhouse will be enough.

To make air exchange faster, instead of roof vents it is better to equip side vents, which will be located above the ground.

For cultivation tropical plants Conventional ventilation cannot be used, so for ventilation you can equip vents based on the principle of blinds.

Greenhouse tricks

Summer residents who have been working in greenhouses for several years can tell you a lot of tricks on which the yield of vegetables or other crops depends. But everyone, without exception, will answer that growing plants depends on the crop itself, on the amount of heat supplied, on the length of daylight hours, on ventilation, on proper watering and regular feeding.

We will share with you some of these subtleties and tricks:


From all of the above, we can conclude that several types of material can be used to make a greenhouse, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages. If you are planning to make a greenhouse yourself, then by adhering to our action plan, you will accomplish this without much difficulty. Remember that equipping a greenhouse with vents is just as necessary as watering the plants.