In this material we will talk about this method of hiding pipes in the bathroom, such as installing a box made of plasterboard or plastic, and also consider the main points for its installation.

As a rule, pipes for cold and hot water They look, at the very least, unattractive. Naturally, apartment owners make every effort to hide them. Currently there are several practices simple ways solutions to this problem, the most common of which is to install a pipe box in the bathroom.

Before making a pipe box, you need to organize access to the laid pipes after installation finished design. This will greatly simplify the implementation of possible future work for preventive or repair purposes.

Making a box frame

Box designs for plumbing pipes there may be several, but the stages of their installation will be the same in any case.

First you need to decide on the material for the frame and cladding. The frame can be made from aluminum profile or wooden slats. Next, the dimensions of the space occupied by the pipes are measured, after which they proceed to assembling the frame from sections. The structure is attached to the wall and floor with self-tapping screws.

It is worth noting that in order to facilitate the work, wooden blocks can be installed in advance at the frame attachment points.

After assembling and positioning the frame, they proceed to cladding operations.

Types of boxes

Plasterboard box

Most often, the box for covering pipes in the bathroom is made from plasterboard.

This method consists of performing the following work:

• First of all, draw reference lines on the wall, retreating from the pipes by 3-5 cm on both sides. To ensure straight lines, you can use a building level.
• Next, a profile of a certain size is set along the drawn lines, and a cut piece of drywall with a thickness of 9.5 mm is attached to it.
• Now another piece of the profile is cut off and attached to the outer ends of the workpieces. The front part is mounted on the base, which is fastened with self-tapping screws every 25 cm.

• The joints are thoroughly puttied, and then the surface is either painted or covered with any material that the owner liked best.

It is worth noting that the place where the drywall meets the wall can be hidden by installing decorative plinth, for example, a corner intended for the bathroom.

Using polystyrene panels as a box

Also quite a popular material for finishing bathrooms and toilets are polystyrene panels. It can be installed without constructing a frame. That is, a plastic box for polystyrene pipes is also perfect for solving our problem. Such panels have special legs that can be adjusted in height, which is also a big plus when used in rooms with a slightly curved floor. The legs will make it possible to take into account all irregularities, up to 10 cm.

Installation of a box for plastic pipes is carried out in the following sequence:

• The end support is attached to the wall.
• The edges of the panels located on the sides and top are lubricated with glue, then they are installed and adjusted.

• Use a wrench to adjust the legs of the panels to obtain required height. After this, you can consider that the installation of the box is complete.

Ready-made box plastic material It turns out to be very high quality and durable.

Lining the box with tiles

Ceramic tiles are suitable as lining for a box made of fiberboard, moisture-repellent plywood or plasterboard. Tiles are most suitable for use in the bathroom because they are very durable and are not afraid of moisture.

In addition, it comes in many shades and textures. The cladding, as a rule, starts from the front side, and after that they move on to the sides.

Please note that the tiles are attached using a special glue.

Carrying out markings, creating a work plan, installation

The pipe box in the room can be mounted in any place where it is required. The main thing is to make the entire list of calculations in time, even before installation, so that, thanks to the correctly selected location for placing the box, you can make the most efficient use of the available space.

Even before purchasing all materials, you need to draw up an estimate and make markings. In order for the calculations to be as accurate as possible, you need to take into account not only the dimensions of the box, but also the furniture and plumbing fixtures that will be installed in the bathroom.

There is nothing complicated in installing the box, since this structure is nothing more than a typical frame assembled from profiles for arches, partitions and other similar structures. It is noteworthy that it is even easier to use it in the bathroom, because there is no need to give the frame complex shape– you only need to make an even rectangle.

In addition, the frame is most often installed in a corner, which makes its installation even easier and slightly cheaper. To mount the box in the corner, you need to buy only three profiles in height from floor to ceiling, and a fourth profile for cutting lintels. To install the box, you need to fasten the profiles to the walls, ceiling and floor, and then fasten them together with jumpers to get a strong structure.

It is important to know that, in order to make it easier to attach finishing materials after installing the box, you can install pieces wooden beam in the middle of the box.

Last stage: sheathing and lining the box

The final stage, which consists in sheathing the box, also cannot be called difficult, because all the markings have already been made, you just need to accurately cut the material and start sheathing the frame with it.

The cladding material must have moisture-repellent qualities, since the bathroom is a room with excessive humidity. In such conditions the service life large quantity materials is greatly reduced.

It is worth noting that the box must be additionally insulated and sealed so that condensation does not collect on the pipes inside. For this you can use polyurethane foam, sealants and other thermal insulation materials.

In the article above we looked at how to make a box for pipes in a bathtub. We can conclude that it is quite simple to complete all the work, the main thing is to acquire high-quality and the right materials, and make precise markings.

It is impossible to imagine a modern bathroom without communications. But sewer and water pipes will not make the room attractive. Therefore, during the renovation process, apartment and house owners hide these systems under boxes. It is quite possible to carry out such designs independently, without the involvement of professionals. Just to start, you need to select the material. To implement the described task, you can use one of several methods and complete the installation:

• boxes;
• furniture;
• roller blinds;
• pipes in the wall.

When choosing an option, you should think about the possibility Maintenance pipes If they break, the decor of the room should not be affected. Once the box can be installed, you can mount a collapsible structure or make access doors.

The pipe box in the bathroom can be installed depending on the location of the lines. You can cover just the pipes or the entire wall. The first option involves decorating individual areas, so there is an opportunity to save on materials.

If you sew up the entire plane, the room will look more attractive, but such a design will reduce usable area. You can use the space partially occupied by pipes to store various things there.

Preparation of tools and materials

Like all other rooms in your home, the bathroom should look attractive. The indoor pipe box can be made from different materials- it can be drywall, plastic or wood. However, before starting work, you should make sure that you have some tools, including:

• roulette;
• hammer drill;
• construction knife;
• plumb line;
• construction corner;
• hammer;
• bubble level.

To make the boxes, a standard sheet of plasterboard with dimensions of 2500x1200 mm will be sufficient. The thickness can range from 9 to 12.5 mm. It is better to purchase moisture-resistant material, because the sewer riser and water pipes are covered with perspiration, so the humidity will be significant.

The frame can be made from square wooden blocks with a side of 40 or 50 mm. As alternative solution there is a galvanized profile designed for working with drywall. The latter option is more practical, because the profile does not require special training, and it is much easier to install.

Material selection

Before making a box for pipes in the bathroom, you should select the material. It must be moisture-resistant, have a small thickness and weight, and also be based on environmentally friendly ingredients that do not emit into the atmosphere. harmful substances. According to these requirements, you can choose plywood, plastic, MDF or moisture-resistant plasterboard.

Conducting training

Before you install a pipe box in your bathroom, you need to think about where problems are most likely to occur. Problems with the plumbing or sewer system occur at the connections. If you plan to install the box after laying the pipes, then you should make sure that the main has fewer connections.

If it is not planned to replace the pipeline, then before hiding the pipes, it is necessary to inspect them. Without fear of leaks, you can close welded or soldered connections. As for fittings, they should be easily accessible. Their inspection should be carried out periodically. This indicates that threaded connections cannot be walled up. Access must also be guaranteed to valves, filters and meters.

Making a box: determining dimensions

The pipe box in the bathroom should be made only after its future dimensions can be determined. The distance from the walls of the box to the pipes should not be less than 3 cm. Once the markings on the floor have been completed, using a plumb line, the contours of the future box can be transferred to the ceiling and walls.

Frame installation

Before backfilling the communication system, the frame should be installed. It is better to make it from a galvanized profile, because the air in the room will be constantly humid, so wood is not suitable. If the latter option is still preferable for you, then you should choose bars made from rocks that are resistant to rotting. Before use, the elements are treated with an antiseptic.

The components of the frame are fastened together with self-tapping screws or cutters. To fix the profile to the wall, you can stock up on European screws or dowels. The box covering the bathroom pipes must initially be mounted on the walls. At the next stage, the racks that will form the front edge are mounted. Next, guides are installed on the floor and ceiling.

If the length of the racks is more than 1.5 m, jumpers should be made between them. They are required for a frame with a width of more than 0.25 m. Between the jumpers you need to leave a distance of not more than a meter. How to make a pipe box in the bathroom so that it lasts for many years? You must treat the cut area with mastic if you use wooden elements. This will not only protect the material from damage, but also prevent its deformation.

Frame covering

When preparing parts for the box, it is necessary to form entire elements. First you need to cut the side walls. They are cut so that the edges do not extend beyond the frame profile. Then the front part of the box is cut out, which should cover the sides. After cutting, the material is installed on the posts. To do this, use 3.5 cm screws. The step between them should be 2.5 cm. This will provide the frame with strength, so there is no need to fix the material to the jumpers.

To make doors, you can use elements that will be fixed with magnets. Sometimes the box for pipes in the bathroom is made completely collapsible. To do this, sheets of material are fastened with self-tapping screws at the very edge. Final finishing does not involve decorating them, this is necessary if final stage ceramic tiles are used. In order to make the box complete, you can use a plinth or If it is necessary to dismantle the box, the plinth is removed, the screws are unscrewed, and the finishing material is removed.

A plasterboard pipe box in a bathroom is the most common solution for decorating communications. To cover the frame, you should prepare plasterboard, the thickness of which will be 9.5 mm. The joints should be puttied, and then the surface is painted or covered with another material as desired.

Making a plastic box

The first thing you need to do before going into the bathroom is to cover the pipes with a frame. This was discussed above. However, if you want to use polystyrene panels as the lining of the box, then the lining will be done slightly differently. The advantage of this solution is the ability to adjust the structure in height.

The panels have legs, which allows you to level out uneven floors. With the help of these legs you can cover irregularities up to 10 cm. Installation of the panels will look like this. An end support is mounted on the wall. The top and side edges need to be coated with glue and installed in place. Wrench will allow you to tighten the legs of the panels. A plastic pipe box in the bathroom is not only easy to install, but is also durable and reliable.

Recommendations from a specialist for covering the frame of the box with PVC panels

After installing the starting profile, in order to avoid deformation, it is necessary to fix it with fleas on the guide profile. You need to measure the required size on the plastic panel, then cut it with a sharp knife. In the starter profile, the first panel is fixed, while the other is attached to the corner profile.

For connection it is necessary to use bugs or fleas. The second side of the box is assembled according to the same principle. On the last panel you need to fix the starting profile. By using silicone, you will ensure ease of dismantling when emergencies arise. In those places where it is necessary to ensure unobstructed access to pipeline elements, it is necessary to cut inspection holes. Special hatches are installed using silicone sealant.

Conclusion

Before making a box, you need to think about what material the frame will be made from. If you plan to use a profile, you should purchase UD and CD guides. If you prefer wood, then to connect elements from it it is better to purchase hardened self-tapping screws, the length of which will be twice more sizes the timber used.

In each of these cases, to secure plasterboard sheets It’s better to stock up on hardened self-tapping screws, the dimensions of which are 35-45 mm. It is important to choose fasteners that have a piercing tip. It will be easier to work with, and it will not damage the material.

August 10, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works(laying a foundation, erecting walls, constructing a roof, etc.). Internal construction work (laying internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communications, high technology, computer equipment, programming.

The best way to disguise engineering Communication in the plumbing room - construct a box in the bathroom for pipes. I recently renovated a city apartment and constructed a similar structure using plasterboard. The result is a fairly simple and functional design.

Features of the bathroom box

A sanitary room is a room with a specific microclimate in which public utilities - water supply and sewerage - run.

Pipes in the bathroom are also usually equipped with monitoring devices (hot and cold water) and control ( shut-off valves). And herself engineering system requires periodic maintenance - monitoring the integrity of connections, cleaning filters, replacing damaged areas and so on.

In this regard, the bathroom box must meet several important requirements:

1. Take up minimal space. Considering small area In a plumbing room, the structure must be made in such a size that it does not take up free space. But at the same time, the casing and profiles must be at least 3 cm away from the pipes.
2. Provide free access to engineering systems. The design of the box should be such that you or a plumber can easily access pipes, meters and taps for inspection or repair. It is better if the box is removable, but as a last resort it is necessary to install sufficient quantity inspection doors.
3. Be safe.
4. To harmonize with the decorative finish of the bathroom.

There are many more requirements that can be named, but these, in my opinion, must be taken into account without fail.

Choosing the right material

Now let's figure out what to make the box from. Most often I had to construct it for pipes from plastic panels and plasterboard.

A plastic box is more suitable for a riser in a plumbing room, the walls and ceiling of which are finished similar material. Then the bathroom interior will look holistic and harmonious.

I prefer to use drywall. This material, when compared with plastic panels, has more advantages, which I listed in the table:

Characteristic	Description
Easy to install	Plasterboard sheets are easily fixed to a frame made of galvanized profiles, so they can be used to construct a box of any shape and size. You do not need to have any special skills or use complex engineering equipment.
Light weight	Plasterboard sheets weigh little, so they do not put additional load on the structural elements of the building. And to hold them, thin and light galvanized parts are sufficient.
Flexibility	When wetted with water and trimmed on one side, the gypsum board can be given a rounded shape, creating a spectacular and unique box in the plumbing room, which will become the central element of the design.
Smooth surface	Drywall sheets have ideal flat surface, which facilitates their subsequent decorative processing of the box. You do not have to perform additional leveling using beacon plaster.
Variety of finishes	The surface of a box made of plasterboard sheets can be decorated with any finishing material. Most often, tiles are glued to gypsum boards, but you can also use wallpaper, paint, and lining (plastic or wood).
Fire safety	The described material consists of hardened gypsum and thin sheets cardboard, therefore it is difficult to ignite in a fire and does not support combustion. When exposed to an open flame, it does not emit toxic smoke or combustion products hazardous to health.
Environmental friendliness	The material has zero level formaldehyde emissions, therefore completely safe for the human body both during installation and during further operation.
Affordable price	The cost of plasterboard sheets is low, so anyone can afford this method of covering a box, even if the amount planned for toilet repair is small.

I would like to note right away that to construct the box it is necessary to use moisture-resistant drywall, which is painted in green color. It tolerates operation better in conditions high humidity and is specially designed for installation in sanitary facilities.

By the way, from plastic panels assembled on galvanized profiles, you can construct an excellent laundry box. Including portable. If you choose the color of the panels to match the tiles or the color of the plumbing fixtures, such a container for dirty things will look quite natural in the bathroom.

Tools and additional materials

In addition to drywall, you will need other tools and materials. Personally, I use this set for work:

1. UD profiles for constructing frame parts running along the walls and ceiling.
2. CD profiles for mounting the frame racks of the future box, as well as the production of stiffening elements for the future structure.
3. Dowel nails or screws with plastic dowels that will be used to secure wall profiles to the surface.
4. Building level. It is best to use a laser, but a regular water one is also quite suitable. A long tool is more suitable, since you will have to mark the walls.
5. Reinforcing tape for strengthening seams between sheets of drywall. It is called serpyanka.
6. Knife for cutting drywall sheets. A regular stationery knife with replaceable blades or a specialized tool will do.
7. Hammer for drilling holes in reinforced concrete walls bathroom.
8. Screwdriver for securing drywall sheets to a constructed galvanized frame.
9. Self-tapping screws for drywall. You will need regular ones (with a sharp tip) and special ones (their tip looks like a metal drill). The latter are useful for installing drywall sheets on the installation frame.
10. Putty for drywall. Used together with serpyanka to seal seams between sheets of sheathing.
11. Acrylic primer. It is used to treat the surface of gypsum boards in order to reduce their absorbency and increase adhesion to tile adhesive (or other decorative material).
12. Metal scissors. With their help, parts of suitable size are cut from long galvanized profiles.
13. Spatulas. Used for puttying drywall joints and gluing tiles.

Box installation technology

This time I will tell you how to install a box in a bathroom made of plasterboard, with which you can not only close the pipes, but also hide the installation for a wall-hung toilet (since the plumbing room in the case I described was combined).

I divided the technology for installing such a box into several successive stages, which are shown in the diagram below:

Marking

I'll start by marking the walls for installation of U-shaped galvanized profiles. As I already said, I will sheathe the installation together with the pipelines, to which the toilet will subsequently be attached. Initially, the future battlefield looks like this:

Let's start marking. Despite the apparent simplicity of this process, the technology has several secrets, which I want to talk about in more detail:

1. I mark the walls near the vertical pipes. This is done as follows:
   • First you need to find a section of the pipe that protrudes further than others, then measure a distance from it equal to 3-5 cm (minimum acceptable) and make a mark on the wall.

• Using a laser or water level, draw a strictly vertical line that starts from the ceiling, passes through the mark you made and ends at the floor.
• The same should be done with the adjacent wall. First, a mark is made indicating the surface of the future box, after which a strictly vertical line is drawn through it.

1. I mark the boundaries of the future box on the ceiling and floor. These will be guidelines for securing the profiles to the mentioned surfaces. The work flow is as follows:
   • Near the ceiling, a square is applied to the line on the wall so that its long part is perpendicular to the bathroom wall.
   • After this, the square is installed flush with the vertical line drawn on the wall.
   • Using a pencil, draw a line on the ceiling along which you subsequently need to secure the U-shaped profile.
   • Conducted in a similar manner perpendicular to the wall line from the adjacent wall. The markup should look like this.
   • After this, you need to mark the floor in the same way, on which profiles will also be installed to secure the frame of the future box.

1. I mark the installation locations for the profiles near the toilet installation. In this place, the box will occupy a minimum of free space in the bathroom, therefore the profiles will be installed at the same level as the border of the installation frame. The sequence of actions is as follows:
   • You should attach a square to the frame, using it as a guide to make a mark on the bathroom wall that will be flush with the frame.
   • Using the marks made, you need to draw lines on the wall.
   • Check that the markings are done correctly using a water level. The marks must be strictly vertical and horizontal.

1. When marking, you can focus not on the dimensions of the pipes, but on geometric parameters tiles In this case, marking the boundaries of the structure is done as follows:
   • In the corner opposite to where the box will be placed, it is necessary to retreat approximately 1.2 cm from the junction of the walls (the thickness of the tile is adhesive composition) and mark it with a pencil. Then, through this line, draw a vertical line along the entire wall - from ceiling to floor.

• The distance from this mark to the intended location of the box is measured. After which the resulting value is divided by the width of the tiles used for cladding plus 2 mm for the seam between each.
• Then a mark is placed for the box so that after laying the tiles there is no need to trim them. Or so that the cut tile is wide (that is, the cut part is narrow). This way the box will look as organic as possible.

After completing the marking, you can proceed to the installation of galvanized profiles, onto which the drywall will subsequently be attached.

Installation of profiles

Let's start work by installing frame profiles that will sheathe vertical water pipes and sewer pipes. The installation sequence is as follows:

1. I install galvanized profiles on the floor of the room. To secure them, dowels and nails will be used:
   • First you need to cut the U-shaped galvanized profile so that its length is equal to the length of the floor mark. You can cut the part using metal scissors.
   • After this, the cut piece is tried on at the place of its installation. If for some reason protruding parts interfere with its installation, small area the profile can be trimmed with scissors and bent with pliers.

• Then the fitted part is pressed to the floor and a hole with a depth of 5 cm and a diameter that corresponds to the diameter of the selected dowels (usually 6 mm) is made directly through it in the concrete surface using a hammer drill.

• After this, a plastic dowel with a metal core is driven into the hole, which will firmly hold metal part in the place designated for it.
• Holes are drilled in the same way and the remaining dowels are driven in. The distance between adjacent fasteners is approximately 20 cm.

1. I install galvanized UD profiles on the ceiling of the room. The sequence of actions is described in the previous paragraph. It is very important to ensure that all profiles are installed strictly according to the markings. Otherwise, serious difficulties will arise when installing intermediate profiles and securing sheets of drywall.
2. I install vertical parts on the walls. This also requires UD profiles and dowel nails. The work flow is as follows:
   • Using metal scissors, a part is cut from the profile, the dimensions of which correspond to the distance from the floor to the ceiling.
   • After this, the profile is inserted inside the parts that are already fixed to the ceiling and floor.

• Then the profile is nailed to the surface using dowel nails. First, it’s better to drill a hole and hammer in fasteners near the floor and ceiling so that the part is firmly held in place, and then make intermediate fastenings at a distance of approximately 20 cm from each other. It is important to ensure that the galvanized profile is installed strictly along the line drawn on the wall.
• After this, the vertical and horizontal parts must be fastened together using small self-tapping screws (“bugs”). To do this, you need to squeeze the two parts together with pliers, and then screw the self-tapping screw into this place. If this is not done, the surface internal detail When screwed into it, the fasteners may bend.

• If the length of your existing profile is not enough, then you can build a suitable part from two. To do this, they are inserted into each other at a distance of 15-20 cm. On the wall, this area must be reinforced with a separate dowel and screw.

1. Installing corner piece for the vertical part of the box. It uses not UD, but a CD profile, which has the required strength. The installation diagram is simple. Part needs to be cut required length, then insert it into the profiles on the ceiling and floor, and then fasten it together with small screws, as described in paragraph 3.4.
2. I install intermediate stiffeners. They are made from CD profiles. The vertical distance between adjacent elements is approximately 30 cm. They connect the wall profile with the central part and provide the required stiffness and structural strength during subsequent cladding and operation. Make sure that the stiffeners are installed strictly horizontally. As a result, you should get something like this design (1 – wall profile, 2 – central profile, 3 – stiffener).

1. I install galvanized profiles for the box that covers the installation. The workflow here is even simpler:
   • First, UD profiles are attached to the wall using pre-made marks using dowel nails or screws.
   • Then the corner of the installation is connected to the profiles on the wall with another piece. All of them are fastened to each other using self-tapping screws (node ​​number 1 in the figure below).
   • Please note that in the case I am describing, the frame for covering the installation was attached after covering the vertical box with plasterboard. However, I describe this process here so as not to violate the logic of presentation (node ​​number 2 in the figure below).

At this point, the frame manufacturing process is completed and you can proceed to covering it with plasterboard.

Fastening drywall sheets

How to attach drywall to a made frame:

1. I cut gypsum boards into parts of the required size. Despite the apparent simplicity of this operation, it has several nuances that I would like to dwell on in more detail:
   • First, using a tape measure, you need to measure the width of each surface of the resulting frame, and then transfer these dimensions to the plasterboard sheets.

• Then, along the resulting lines, the sheets are cut into parts. To do this, an aluminum rule (or level) is applied to the line, after which a knife is used to cut through the cardboard layer on the plasterboard and part of the plaster. The part is then turned over to the other side and broken. All that remains is to cut off the second layer of cardboard and trim the end.

• If necessary, technological holes must be made in the sheathing sheets before screwing them to the frame. To do this, drywall is applied to the installation site, after which the areas to be removed are marked. Then they are cut out using the same knife or a piece of blade from a metal file (for holes round shape you can't think of anything better).

• Holes are required for installing inspection doors. Usually they are cut in places where meters or shut-off valves are located. It is also necessary to provide access to inspection holes in sewer pipes to clean them in case of blockage.

1. I screw the plasterboard sheets to the profiles and guides. The sequence of actions is as follows:
   • To secure the gypsum board to the frame, black self-tapping screws with sharp tips are used.
   • You need to tighten the fasteners using a screwdriver that can rotate at low speeds.

• The profiles are attached to both the side and intermediate guides. The distance between adjacent screws is 20 cm. Thus, it is necessary to sheathe all sections of the constructed frame. I came up with this design.

1. I am covering an installation for a wall-hung toilet with plasterboard. There are several here important features, which are worth special mention:
   • I started constructing the box and covering the installation only after finishing work with the vertical part of the box, since according to my idea, the guide part is attached to the drywall.

• The top and side parts of the installation are sheathed with plasterboard sheets in one layer, since they do not experience increased loads during operation, and the front side of the structure must be sheathed with two layers of plasterboard.

• To secure the gypsum board to a metal installation, you need to use special self-tapping screws (number 1 in the figure below), the tip of which is shaped like a metal drill. If you don’t have these, then before screwing in a regular self-tapping screw (in the figure below, number 2) in the installation, you need to drill a hole with a diameter of 3 mm.

• TO front side installation, first screw the first sheet of drywall, and then, on top of it, the second. All necessary technological holes must be pre-cut in both parts.

At this point, the process of attaching drywall to the frame of our box can be considered complete. I ended up with this design.

Now you can begin decorating the surface of the box.

Finishing

I chose ceramic tiles as the finishing touch for my installation box. Although, as I said above, the beauty of drywall is that it can be finished with any decorative material- with wallpaper, paint, and, if desired, plastic.

The work plan for gluing tiles is as follows:

1. I fill the gaps between the gypsum boards. For this, joint putty is used. For example, Knauf Fugenfüller. To further strengthen these areas, you can use fiberglass tape - serpyanka. The work is done in this order:
   • The seams are treated with a drywall primer. It will remove dust from these areas of the box and improve the adhesion of the surface to the putty used.
   • Pre-mixed with water or already ready mixture You need to apply it with a spatula to the seams between the sheets, then carefully press it inward.
   • Glue the sickle strip on top of the seam, then apply a small amount of mortar on top and level it with a spatula.

1. Primer surface of drywall. It is better to process gypsum board twice. The putty can be applied using a roller or a regular brush. Processing in two layers increases the adhesion strength of the glue and, accordingly, the latter is better able to hold the tile on the surface of the finished box.

1. I am laying tiles. This process is described in detail in my articles posted on this site, so those interested can refer to them for the necessary information. I will not dwell on this process here.

After finishing laying the tiles and drying the glue using silicone

Say no to open communications

Purpose plumbing unit It’s very clear to everyone. It is also clear that there are many pipes running through it, which in no way can make the appearance of the room attractive. For this reason, it has recently become very fashionable to hide communications in boxes. This measure allows you to make the bathroom more attractive in appearance, but reduces the possibility of access to the pipes in case of need for inspections or troubleshooting. Today we will talk about how to collect pipe box in the bathroom so that it is both beautiful and functional.

The first thing you have to face is the choice of material with which the boxes will be made. The determining factor for making a decision will be the main decoration of the walls - usually the same material should be placed on the frame so that it looks organic and does not stand out as a stain in the overall composition.

Both the box and the walls are lined with the same tiles

Although this is not so much a rule as a recommendation, since there are often cases of combining completely different materials. Imagine a situation where you bought an apartment, and it has already had some good renovations done, which you obviously don’t intend to redo, but for some reason they didn’t close it. Finding the same tile can be problematic, and its installation will require more experience, effort and time. In this case, various decorative boxes. They can be assembled from plastic or, for example, lining. And if you have a sense of color, then the insert will not look alien. And in any case, it will look neater than an open riser and wiring.

Sometimes people even go to non-standard solutions. Look at the following photo and evaluate the author's idea.

Closes the roller shutter pipes

• The pipes here are located in a wall niche, which the enterprising owner decided to close with roller shutters. It looks unusual, but, you see, it’s very attractive and, most importantly, the person has full access to all communications. We give the author an A+ from our resource for his entrepreneurial spirit.

Plastic box

• The next photo shows the plastic version. The same material was used for the ceiling, so the box does not stand out from the overall picture, despite the fact that the walls are tiled.
• However, if you have indoors major renovation, then we advise you to do everything right away, as expected, without saving on the little things. Moreover, this will significantly simplify the procedure for finishing the walls.

So, as a result, all boxes can be divided into two types - decorative and decorative-functional, which are initially assembled from materials that do not require finishing, and are used as a base for ceramic tiles. In the second case, plasterboard, gypsum fiber and OSB panels are used. Today we will look at the installation of two options for boxes: plastic and plasterboard.

Plasterboard box in the bathroom

Let's start with drywall, as a more popular and versatile option. Working with this material is a pleasure. It is easy to process and allows you to assemble structures of almost any configuration.

Tools

To work we need the following set of tools:

Table 1. Tools for work.

Tool, photo:	Description, purpose:
Hammer	Drywall is attached to a frame, which in turn is attached to the walls, floor and ceiling. The connection is made using dowel screws or anchor wedges, which are inserted into holes made in concrete and brick walls perforator. The tool itself does not require a professional, since the amount of work will not be very large.
Pictured is a corded screwdriver	A screwdriver will help us connect frame parts to each other, secure plasterboard sheets, screw screws into dowels when attaching profiles, and even completely replace a hammer drill if the work is done in a wooden house. It is better to choose a cordless tool, as it is especially convenient to work with at heights. It must have a high engine speed in order to quickly and effortlessly screw hardware into a metal profile.
Metal scissors	This profile will have to be cut to the size of the box. Professionals at large objects do it electric tool, and metal scissors will be enough for us, since there will not be so many components.
Rasp for drywall	When cutting drywall, uneven edges are obtained, which can protrude beyond the plane of the box and interfere with the laying of tiles in the future. The easiest way to correct the situation is with a rasp like this, which can be purchased for no more than 100 rubles.
Stationery knife	You can cut drywall very easily and quickly with a utility knife. It is used only for straight cuts. For a curly one, you will additionally need a hacksaw.
Marking tool	You will need a tape measure and a marker. For the drywall itself, you can also use a pencil - it is not suitable for profiles, since it will not draw on a galvanized coating.
Water level	It is very important to set the frame strictly level, as it can serve as an excellent basis for supporting wall tiles during finishing. To determine the horizon, it is best to use a water level or a laser level. As a last resort we use bubble level, but be careful as it may cause measurement errors.

Prices for popular hammer drill models

Hammers

Of course, we did not name the entire set, since the need for various small things constantly arises. For example, dowel-screws can be driven in rather than tightened, in which case a hammer will be useful, or profiles can be connected with a cutter, and so on. If we missed something important, it will emerge as we describe the work.

Materials for work

The easiest way to assemble a box is from the following components:

Table 2. Material for work.

Materials, photos:	Description:
Guide ceiling profile	There are many varieties of profiles, but the most convenient for our purposes is the ceiling 27*28 mm. It has a U-shape without stiffeners. The strength of the element will depend entirely on the thickness of the metal - it is best to take the 0.6 mm option.
Drywall	We will only use moisture-resistant drywall. It has a green shell color. Both wall and ceiling options are suitable, since the structure will subsequently be reinforced with glued on top ceramic tiles.
Dowel-screw	Plastic dowel screws will securely connect the frame and walls. Buy the version with a mushroom cap. The photo shows a secret one - it can also be used, but the first option will hold better. Fastener dimensions 6*40 mm. The same type of drill is used for the hammer drill.
Self-tapping screw "bug"	These 9 mm shorts are used to connect the profiles together. You can replace them with a model with a press washer, but screwing them into the metal is somewhat harder.
Self-tapping screws for metal	You can tell the salesperson in the store about self-tapping screws for drywall, and he will show you such hardened hardware with rapid threads. Due to this, they are held qualitatively on thin-walled profiles. This fastener is used for installing plasterboard sheets. A length of 25 mm will be sufficient.

Prices for drywall and sheet materials

Drywall and sheet materials

Most likely, one sheet of drywall will be enough if the length of the pipes is not very long. In general, the leaf has dimensions 120*250 cm. Use this data in your calculations.

The profile is also easy to calculate. You need to measure the length of the future box. Let's say it turned out to be 2.5 m. We multiply this number by three, since there will be three belts. In our case it turns out 7.5 m. Length of one profile is 3 m, which means we need to buy 3 pieces - the trimmings will be used to form stops on the sides. To do this you need to know the depth and width of the box.

Advice! If the sides of the box are approaching to 50 cm, then it is better to install additional jumpers from the PN profile into it 27*60 for reliability. We are also increasing the number of belts up to 4.

Having trouble making the box? More detailed information in our ! All about the types of boxes, the pros and cons of designs. Also detailed instructions about the manufacture of the frame and installation of drywall.

Assembling a plasterboard box for pipes

Riser - sewer and water pipes

So, before us is an ordinary bathroom of a high-rise building, through which a sewer riser passes and water pipes. We are required to cover it all up nicely and leave access to the audit and water meters. We will act in the following order:

Step 1. Marking the contour of the box.

Marking the contours of the box

• Everything, as usual, starts with markings. For this we need a plumb line, a pencil, a dye thread, a square and a tape measure (not always).
• We find the most protruding parts on the pipes. This could be connections, taps, meters, sewer inspections, and so on. Using a square, we transfer their level with marks to the walls. Then we add 3 cm to the sides from the riser to the points. As you understand, we are now marking both planes at once. If some obstacles prevent you from making the required indentation, then attach the PNP profile and see its most optimal position, taking into account the thickness of the drywall used and the tiles that will then lie on it - 2.5 cm so as not to make a mistake.
• Then we take a plumb line or laser level and put marks at the bottom and top of the wall, focusing on the marks obtained taking into account 3 cm. Using a dye thread, we connect the dots and get a straight line from the ceiling to the floor.
• Next you need to mark the ceiling. This part is the hardest. We apply a square to the walls one by one and draw two intersecting lines. What's so complicated about that, you ask? And the fact is that next we need to check the angles that we got. Naturally, there will be exactly 90 degrees. We check the outer corner, which ideally should be the same. For this we use the same square or protractor. When found large differences, the line should be redrawn so that the least noticeable difference is obtained.

The floor can be marked after attaching the guides to the walls and ceiling

• Next, we take a plumb line and apply it with a thread to the point of intersection of the lines in order to project it onto the floor. This work can be done laser level, but the bubble one can deceive. This is the only way we do it. It is impossible to measure separately using a square and a tape measure, since in the end the outer corner may turn out to be blocked.
• Having found the desired point, we connect it with the lines on the walls.

Step 2. Profile installation.

We mount the profiles

• Using metal scissors, we cut two profiles slightly less than the height of the room so that we do not run into the ceiling when installing them. We take a hammer drill in our hands, align the outer edge of the profile along the line on the wall and carefully begin to drill, trying not to move anything. You should start from the ceiling, stepping back 50 centimeters from him. Then insert the dowel screw into the resulting hole and tighten it.
• We go to the bottom and repeat the procedure exactly. We make sure that the profile is exactly along the line, after which we begin to fasten it along the entire length, in increments of 40-50 cm.
• We attach two sections of the profile, as shown in the photo, to the floor and ceiling.

Advice! Even the shortest profile needs to be secured for at least 2 dowel screws so that it does not rotate.

Life hack from the master

In situations where cross members will need to be attached to guides in hard to reach place, it is better to install them right away, and only then attach the profile to the wall.

Step 3. Installation of corner post.

Installing a corner post

• Next you need to secure the corner post. This is not difficult to do, but it is worth remembering that the element can bend for various reasons, so before fixing it, be sure to check its position according to the level.
• The installed stand will dangle as it is practically not secured. Start installing crossbars, and this effect will gradually fade away. Jumpers are installed in 60 cm increments. The exception is the installation location inspection hatch– there we focus on its position and dimensions, and the place where the drywall sheets join.
• The crossbars are connected using self-tapping screws. On the side where it is not possible to insert the profile, mounting tabs are made on the parts, or you can attach them to corner post another profile that needs to be turned towards the second wall.

Jumpers on the second side of the frame

If your box is small in size, then you don’t need to install jumpers. They will be replaced by drywall itself, screwed on both sides. The inspection window edging is also attached only to the drywall.

Step 4. Fastening drywall.

We fix the drywall

• On last stage cut drywall into strips required width and attach it to the frame. The easiest way to cut is this way. We attach the sheet to the frame and grab it at several points, lifting it 5 mm from the floor. We take a stationery knife and cut through a layer of cardboard along the corner post, as if along a guide. We break the sheet and bend it. We cut the paper on the other side and remove the excess piece.
• We clean up any unevenness on the edge with a utility knife or rasp.
• The first side that we will sew up will be the one where the hole for the hatch will be. We also cut it in place with a saw, and feel free to close the box completely. Self-tapping screws must be screwed into guide profiles and jumpers, their pitch is 20-25 cm. In this case, there is no need to monitor the caps that are precisely sunk into the material, since the tiles are set on glue, which is not afraid of such small errors.

Prices for metal profiles

Metal profile

This completes the installation, all that remains is the finishing, which you can read about in other articles on our website.

Using a box to hide a pipeline

Video - How to make a plasterboard box for pipes

Installation of a plastic box

Plastic is even easier to install than drywall

PVC is good because it is not afraid of water, and it does not require finishing, except for covering the edges. A plastic box is assembled almost exactly the same way as a plasterboard box. In principle, this material can be attached to the same metal frame.

Video - Secrets of installing a plastic box in the toilet

However, instead of metal it is better to use wooden slats or timber. Plastic is a fairly fragile material and any self-tapping screw that slips through the metal can damage its surface.

This is what a wooden frame looks like

Let's quickly look at the assembly process and clarify the main differences.

• So, it all starts with exactly the same markings - we need straight lines along the walls, on the ceiling and floor.
• Next we take the rail 25 mm thick and nail it to the walls using 6*60 mm dowel screws.

Attention! The slats can be bent, so bend them as needed, following the markings.

Fastening the slats to the wall with dowel screws

• The same rail is mounted on the floor and ceiling.
• Installing an external rack made of timber cross section 35*35 mm and more. It is attached to the rail using steel furniture corners.
• We also build a frame at the location of the hatch. If box is more than 37.55 cm wide, we install crossbars.

The parts are connected with self-tapping screws and steel corners

It’s worth making a small digression here. The width is indicated with the expectation that good durable plastic that has similar dimensions can be used. If you bought more narrow version, then you will need docking, which means no jumpers that will go every 50 cm, there will be no way around it.

The next step is to install the start

• An L-shaped profile, or simply a starter, is cut to the length of the box, applied to the rail and attached to it with self-tapping screws or with a stapler to staples. In this case, the part is pressed against the walls so that there are no unsightly gaps.

Cutting PVC panels with a utility knife

• Then a plastic panel is taken and also cut to length. This can be done with a fine-toothed hacksaw or a utility knife. To do this, lay the panel so that the unnecessary end hangs over the edge of a plane, for example, a table or stool. Make markings with a pencil and a square. Cut through upper layer plastic, break it and cut the second one.
• If nothing will cover the edges of the panel (baguettes, baseboards), put a starter profile on them. Insert the plastic into the starter on the wall and attach it to the external stand with self-tapping screws. Install the second side in a similar way, having previously cut out a hole for the hatch - there is no need to refine it, since inspection hatches have their own edging that will hide the edges.

Assortment of external corners for glue

• Next you will need an external corner profile under the glue, as shown in the photo above. We will attach it with “liquid nails”. After installation, the part must be tightened masking tape and leave to dry.

Prices for different types of liquid nails

Liquid Nails

This is where the work actually ends. As you can see, there is nothing complicated, it’s enough to have the right tool and know how to work with materials. We also recommend watching the videos attached to the article, where you can see another interesting variation of the plastic box.

Find out how to install, and also familiarize yourself with its purpose, types, sizes, in a special article on our portal.

Wanting to make their bathroom more neat and convenient, many people decide to hide the water and sewer pipes when carrying out renovations. The best way to do this without transferring communications and with a minimum of dust - build a box for pipes in the bathroom. You can assemble a plumbing box with your own hands; there are several options available for this.

The most common option for hiding pipes is to assemble a box from moisture-resistant plasterboard. This is due to the fact that ceramic tiles, which are most often used to decorate bathrooms, can then be glued onto the drywall. Let's consider the main stages of constructing a gypsum plasterboard box.

Stage 1: marking

Before starting to assemble the frame, markings are made at the installation site of the box. The initial mark is placed at a distance of 30–50 mm from the most protruding element of communications.

The frame stand is located at a distance of at least 3 cm from pipes and other communication units.

Next, using a level, a vertical line is drawn along the surface of the wall, indicating the line of fastening of the frame. A similar mark is placed on the other wall, as well as in areas where horizontal pipes are closed.

Note! It is advisable to select the size of the box for tiling in such a way that whole tiles are used to cover all protruding parts. In addition to saving tiles, this allows you to create a neat and complete cladding.

Stage 2: frame construction

Assembly of the frame begins with the installation of a guide profile, which is attached to the walls with dowels along the marking lines. The step between the attachment points is 20–30 cm. The guide profile is also attached to the ceiling and floor to form the angle of the frame and install the front pillar. To ensure that the corners of the frame below and above are located in the same plane, first the guide profile is attached at right angles to the ceiling. Then a plumb line is tied to it and a point is marked on the floor where the lower corner of the frame should be located.

A rack profile is screwed to the guide profiles located on the floor and ceiling with self-tapping screws, which is fixed with 3-4 horizontal jumpers for additional mounting rigidity.

Note! Reinforcing jumpers are mounted taking into account the future location of inspection hatches that provide access to valves and meters.

After assembling the vertical part of the frame, if there are horizontal pipes for them, the frame is assembled according to a similar scheme:

• A guide profile is attached to the wall and floor, which sets the dimensions of the future box.
• The front frame element is attached to the guides using jumpers cut from the rack profile.

All jumpers are also installed taking into account the location of the sewer outlet for connecting the toilet, inspection hatches and shut-off valves.

Stage 3: framing the frame

The finished frame is sheathed moisture-resistant plasterboard, cut into pieces required size. GKLV is cut with a sharp knife: first, the cardboard is cut along the line on one side (with a slight penetration into the gypsum core), then the sheet is broken along the cut line and the cardboard is cut on the second side. The sheathing is fastened to the frame using black self-tapping screws in increments of 15–20 cm. The place where the inspection hatch will be installed is not covered with plasterboard or a hole is then cut out.

Note! It is advisable that at this stage the inspection hatch has already been selected by type and size and purchased so that you can immediately try it on for a tight fit.

Types of hatches used for plasterboard box:

Stage 4: finishing

Before finishing the box must be prepared, this is done in the following sequence:

1. All seams between the drywall are opened with a knife, then, along with the corners and other edges, they are sanded.
2. The seams are filled with putty, and sickle tape is glued on top.
3. The corners are also treated with a putty mixture and glued with sickle tape.
4. After the putty has dried, the box is treated with a primer in two passes, with a break for each layer to dry.

A plasterboard box is most often faced with ceramic tiles: a continuous layer of tile adhesive is applied to the back side of the tile, which is smoothed with a notched trowel. The tile is applied to the drywall and pressed, then the next one is glued. Having completed the installation, the seams are rubbed using conventional technology, and the corners are closed. decorative elements color suitable for finishing.

It is written in detail about laying tiles on drywall.

Plastic box

Another frequently used material for hiding communications is PVC panels. A plastic box for pipes in the bathroom is most often constructed if the walls and/or ceiling are covered or planned to be covered with plastic. Let's look at how to properly make a plastic box with your own hands when hiding a sewer riser in a Khrushchev building.

Frame assembly

The frame, as for a gypsum plasterboard box, is assembled from guides and rack profiles according to a similar scheme:

• The guides are attached to the wall using dowels.
• Outside corner formed using a profile secured with jumpers. Fastening all elements metal frame carried out by so-called bedbugs or flea beetles - metal screws 13 or 16 mm long.

Advice! If behind the pipes there is free space, you can use any corners to secure a wooden shelf, and then install an additional hatch in the casing. In this simple way it will work comfortable spot for storage household chemicals or other items.

Frame covering

For cladding the frame, ordinary plastic panels. Depending on the size of the frame, you can choose a strip width of 10 or 25 cm. The frame is sewn in the following order:

If pipes pass through the box that are not planned to be closed (for example, heating pipes or a heated towel rail), then to carefully handle them proceed as follows:

• The starting profile is attached to the frame close to the wall.
• Cutouts are made in the plastic panel at one edge for approximately half the diameter of the pipe.
• The panel is cut to width and inserted into the space behind the pipe.
• A cutout is also made in the next panel for the remaining diameter, and the panels are connected to each other.

This method allows you to make a neat outline of the pipe, and the remaining gap is subsequently filled with sealant.

Note! During the covering, marks are made on the plastic panels where the hole for the hatch will be located and its size.

Final stage

When the box is completely sheathed, according to the marks made in advance, holes for hatches are cut using a jigsaw with fine teeth.

For installation on plastic boxes, plastic folding or rotating hatches are used, which are selected according to size. The hatch is secured using silicone sealant, which is applied along the edges of the product. The hatch is then pressed against plastic sheathing, and the protruding sealant is removed.

If there is no handle in the opening hatch cover, opening it is not very convenient. For convenience, you can use a regular self-tapping screw to screw on a plastic furniture handle that matches the color.

To make it more convenient to open the hatch, a handle is screwed onto the door.

Outer corner closes plastic skirting board, which is fixed with silicone sealant.

Advice! It is recommended to secure the outer corner with masking tape while the sealant is setting so that it does not come off.

The final touch is to fill the gaps between the pipe and the plastic lining with white sealant.

Collapsible box options

In conclusion, let’s look at four ways to make a collapsible box in the bathroom, so that if emergency situations or replacing risers to provide access to them without having to break the entire structure.

Method 1

The plasterboard box is assembled independently frame structure, which is not attached to the wall. The box itself is glued to the already laid tiles with one-component polyurethane adhesive. To remove the box in the pipes that come out of it, quick-release connections of the “American” type are provided. If full access to the riser is necessary, the glue is carefully cut with a knife or other sharp object, and the box is carefully set aside.

Method 2

Another option for a removable box is that the frame is attached to the walls, as usual. Then plasterboard blanks are cut out along the frame to cover it, but are not screwed to the guides. The sheathing is fixed to the frame after gluing the tiles to the drywall: to do this, a hole is made in it and a self-tapping screw is screwed in. If access to the pipes is necessary, the screws are unscrewed, and all cladding (plasterboard + tiles) is carefully removed.

Method 3

To make it easier to disassemble and dismantle the plasterboard box, some craftsmen suggest setting the tiles on transparent silicone instead of cement tile adhesive. This method of fixation works fine if the base is drywall. When a thin layer of silicone is applied to the tile, it does not float on the base, and if a thick layer of sealant is needed, it is necessary to use plastic crosses to prevent the tile from sliding. If necessary, disassembling such a box is much easier than when the tiles are glued with cement glue. From the edge of the inspection hatch, the layer of sealant is cut off with a hacksaw blade. Moreover, due to the fact that transparent silicone is used, it is visible where the screws securing the drywall are located and the entire structure can be disassembled.

Method 4

The simplest and a budget option collapsible design- this is to assemble a box from PVC panels without installing a rigid frame. The essence of the method is as follows:

• The guide profiles are glued to the tile cladding using liquid nails.
• The starting profile is attached to the guides in the same way.
• Plastic panels are inserted into the guides, and the front corner is connected using external corner with a wide shelf.

This design has no rigidity, but if access to the riser is necessary, it can be disassembled in just one minute.