How to make a chain key yourself. How to make an allen wrench from an old bicycle chain. Chain Key Specifications

Despite the fairly wide variety in the construction market, tools for screwing or screwing various pipe connections, specialists pay special attention to the chain wrench. The chain wrench is a prominent representative of hand-held locksmith tools designed for installation of pipes or fittings in hard-to-reach places. Such equipment allows you to work in conditions where the use of a standard adjustable or sponge wrench is not possible.

Design features

The simplicity of the chain wrench design makes it very convenient and quite easy to use. Any of its models consists of a clamping mechanism and a handle. The clamping mechanism includes a chain and "cheeks" bolted to the handle. The main element in the construction of the chain wrench is, of course, the metal monolithic handle. At one end of its base there is a nut, which serves as a kind of support for pipes. There are special notches on the sill to prevent the held pipes from spinning. The next important element is the chain. During operation, it grabs the workpiece along its entire diameter. The chain is attached to the base of the key with a retainer, which allows you to hold the generated tension.

Special jaws and an adjustable flexible chain provide the necessary fixation of the pipes.

Due to the absence of any fixed elements in the construction of the key, it is possible to carry out work in a limited space.

To use a chain wrench, it will be enough if there is a distance equal to the thickness of the chain between the structural parts and the pipe. In operation, the chain encircles the desired product around the perimeter, and the nut in this case acts as a special obstacle when sliding. In turn, the lock that fixes the chain in a given position does not allow the initial girth of the pipe to weaken. Due to the uniform distribution of the applied forces over the area of the products, the risk of various deformations or damage is eliminated.

The principle of operation of the chain wrench is as follows: the chain, fixed on the handle, is thrown over the pipe and tightened tightly, resting with the jaws directly on the material. Then, when applying forces (pressing on the end of the handle), the key turns in the required direction. In this case, the toothed ends of the "cheeks", rolling over the product, provide its maximum clamping with subsequent self-locking. The chain in this case acts as a fixing element. Usually it comes with a margin and, if necessary, can be easily changed.

It's easy to work with a chain wrench, but there are a few simple rules to keep in mind:

thoroughly clean the teeth from debris trapped in them before and after work;
it is strictly forbidden to use any cushioning materials between the pipe and the chain;
do not build up the wrench lever with additional pipe cuts. This could break the handle.

This tool should be used with caution when working with parts with high parameters of processing cleanliness or with thin-walled pipes. Significant compression can lead to abrasion of surfaces or crushing of the product.

The main materials for the manufacture of chain keys are aluminum and steel. Keys made on the basis of high-strength steel will last a long time. To facilitate the construction of the key, aluminum is additionally introduced into the composition, but this does not in any way affect the strength characteristics. Aluminum allows to reduce the total weight of the key by an average of 40%. Aluminum is often used in the manufacture of handles.

Chain Key Specifications

In the operation of a chain key, the following main parameters are distinguished:

the possibility of using the tool in places with difficult access;
for light loads, the key is equipped with a one-piece forged alloy steel handle and a special sponge;
the key works with any metal pipes of various diameters;
under heavy loads, some chain wrench models have variable (double) jaws of the same alloy steel. Such a key is considered indispensable when there is a need for a sufficiently tight coupling of the key to the pipe. In order to increase the amount of force applied, an extension arm can be additionally used. Depending on the nature of the work, the chain wrench can be modified by placing replaceable jaws in the structure.

As with any other locksmith tool, the quality of the chain wrench itself is a very important factor. Many people mistakenly believe that the main criterion for choosing a chain wrench is the acceptable throat size. However, it is not. Choosing a tool should be based on the quality of the key, especially on its handle and "cheeks", since, as a rule, they bear most of the loads. It is very good if the key is made of high strength steel. In the future, this will determine its durability in operation. Also, when choosing this type of equipment, you should pay attention to the trademarks of world famous manufacturers, which have long been trusted by many consumers.

Today, both classic and lightweight key models are produced. Standard models are often heavier than lightweight keys.

The most well-known brands that are in demand among customers are the chain keys RIDGID, REED, SPARTA and STAYER.

The most trusted keys known to professionals around the world are currently RIDGID. This company produces more than twenty types of different keys. The products of the world leader are distinguished by their high strength, reliable grip for pipes of different diameters, as well as an ergonomic handle and its length.

The choice of such a tool is quite wide, so you should definitely weigh all the pros and cons before settling on any particular manufacturer.

Ideally, the oil filter is hand-tightened to be removed if replaced in the same way. In practice, drivers and service station employees overtighten the threads. There is a need for an oil filter remover to dismantle it.

The main problem is the unsuccessful location of the consumable element, the dense layout of the units under the hood of the car, several standard sizes of filters and a rubber seal stuck to the ebb, so the most convenient device for dismantling the oil filter is chosen for the car of a particular brand.

Purpose of the puller

According to the car operating manual, problems of how to unscrew the oil filter on your own cannot arise in principle:

when changing the oil, a new filter is installed;
sealing rubber must be lubricated with lithol;
tighten the consumable by hand;
tighten 1/3 turn lightly.

In this case, the rubber sealing ring does not stick to the ebb of the internal combustion engine body, the filter is dismantled without a puller by hand. In case of heavy contamination of the housing, a piece of sandpaper is used - the hand does not slip, the abrasive material ensures a secure grip of the palm with the filter housing.

These requirements are often violated by the users themselves:

there is no lubrication of the rubber ring, at high pressure and temperature it loses its elasticity, sticks to the filter housing and the engine seating surface;
it is unclear for what purpose the car owner tightens the thread with both hands, pulling it and flattening the rubber seal.

Even in this case, you can try to do without a puller:

tap the bezel in a circle from the side of the sealing ring to ensure its mobility relative to the filter housing or the ebb of the groove of the seating surface;
punch through the rubber seal with a narrow screwdriver, separating it from the ebb side.

In all other cases, you have to use special devices for twisting this consumable element. Since access to the filter is difficult, and its outer size differs on different machines, the question of which of the pullers is better, in principle, does not make sense for the following reasons:

there are “turnkey” or head pullers with their own handles;
some tools are made for a specific filter diameter;
other pullers have adjustable grippers of several standard sizes;
universal sliding attachments are suitable for any filters of passenger cars.

To purchase or make your own production of a specific model of a puller, you should familiarize yourself with the design of each of them.

Factory Puller Options

An industrially manufactured tool is usually more reliable than a homemade one. For the above reasons, manufacturers produce about ten versions of the oil filter remover. Moreover, for some of them, the working parts are of different sizes.

"Cup"

In fact, the oil filter remover The cup is a large die-cast head. The popularity of the design is due to factors:

from the outside, the filter housing has a multifaceted surface for a special key;
The cup is this key, it is easy to put on, even on a dirty filter, prevents slipping.

The only drawback is the presence of several standard sizes of filters. If a car enthusiast needs to buy a Cup of one specific size, then a set of oil filter removers becomes the best solution for a service station employee:

by analogy with a set of heads, each Cup is placed in a separate slot;
the suitcase is easy to transport and store;
besides the fact that each Cup has an individual size, the number of faces is 8, 12, 14, 15 and 30, respectively.

From the outside, the device is equipped with a socket for a square wrench or a hex nut. Some manufacturers combine these two options - a square hole is punched in the center of a hex nut. Sets and individual cups can be completed with a spanner wrench.

A feature of this device is the minimum protrusion of the key beyond the outer diameter of the oil filter, therefore the puller is considered compact. The table below shows the marking of the tool depending on the size and number of faces:

When choosing and using a set, you should consider for which cars its individual tools are intended:

Diameter (mm)	Number of faces (pcs.)	Marking (vendor code)	Car manufacturer
93	36	4612	Mazda, Ford
76	30	4103	Jaguar, Land Rover
75	30	4668	Mazda, Ford
86	18	4670	Renault, Citroen, Peugeot
76	12	4669	Renault, Citroen, Peugeot
87	16	1522	BMW, Volvo
92	15	4104	Ford, Porsche, Opel, GM, Jaguar, Land Rover
82	15	1515	Nokia, Nundai
79	15	1403	Suzuki, Toyota, Nissan, Honda, Mitsubishi
75	15	4611	Land Rover, Volvo, Mazda, Ford
74	15	1521	Audi, Volkswagen
84	14	4695	CDL, Benz
74	14	1235	Kia, Nundai, Opel, Volkswagen, Audi, BMW, Benz
72,5	14	4667	Toyota
67	14	1021	Suzuki, Kia, Hyundai, Mazda, Mitsubishi, Ford
65	14	1114	Honda. Nissan, Toyota

Leading manufacturers mark the tool, packaging and corresponding sockets in the sets-diplomats, therefore, it is enough to measure the distance along the edges with a caliper to select the Cup necessary for work. Packing with one tool, depending on the diameter, costs 350 - 900 rubles. The sets cost 3,000 - 8,000 rubles and contain 15 - 30 attachments, respectively.

"Crab"

Unlike the previous version, the Crab oil filter remover is a versatile tool:

the legs are hinged between the two plates;
automatically adjust to the filter size;
there is a hexagon nut with a square hole on top.

The three-legged oil filter remover can be rotated with a universal or spanner wrench and a head, which is important in a limited space with a dense arrangement of engine components and assemblies.

The version of the Crab with flat legs is completely identical to the tool with a round bar clamping device, but it costs 10-15% less.

The main advantages of the Crab design are:

versatility - one device is suitable for any filter size;
cost - cheaper than purchasing a set of Cups, but more expensive than one instrument of this type;
quality - all parts are stamped, which indicates a multiple safety margin;
resource - unlike Cups, there are no slots here, the legs practically do not wear out.

The Crab costs in the range of 500 - 1000 rubles, covers sizes 60 - 125 mm.

Chain

For ease of use, the oil filter chain puller is available in two versions:

In the first case, there are several protrusions on the handle for attaching the lash of one or two-link chain. There is no need to choose a free wheel, the lapel starts immediately after the application of force.

In the second version, the cylindrical part is rigidly fixed in the open circuit. When rotating, it first winds on this part, choosing a free stroke, then covers the filter slots, the force is transmitted to the threaded connection of the consumable element of the internal combustion engine lubrication system.

A device with a handle is inconvenient in a confined space, since it protrudes much beyond the limits of the part to be unscrewed. The head / wrench tool is more compact and much easier to work under the hood of the machine.

The chain attachment is suitable for diameters of 60 - 140 mm, it costs an average of 250 - 600 rubles.

Tape

To work with small dimensions from 30 mm, a belt oil filter remover is usually used, which has several designs:

step - for each diameter of the filter, a steel tape of a certain length is attached to the handle;
with smooth adjustment of the clamp - the metal tape is crimped around the filter with a screw clamp;
textile - the tool is equipped with a nylon tape, it can belong to both tape and belt devices, although the design is similar to a turnkey chain puller.

The most popular step band clamp is of the following design:

the handle is equipped with a fork with several mounting holes and a hinged bracket;
the set includes 3 - 12 strips for specific standard sizes of the filter, the ends of which are riveted into a tube;
when installing the tape, the tubes are placed between the holes in the handle fork, fixed with pins;
free play is selected by moving the movable bracket;
an anti-slip notch is applied to the inner surface of the steel strip.

Depending on the number of belts in the set, the tool costs 250 - 750 rubles, designed for diameters of 30 - 140 mm.

The design of the puller with infinitely adjustable clamping differs from the previous version:

a long piece of tape with an anti-slip notch is passed by both ends through the arcuate sole, fixed on a nut;
in turn, the nut is screwed onto the thread of the bolt in the polymer handle, which is screwed into the sole from the outside.

Thus, the loop is wound on the filter housing, the bolt selects the joint stroke. After that, the same handle is used to unscrew the threaded connection of the consumable of the motor lubrication system.

Instead of notches, the tape can be equipped with pieces of wire welded across it. The price of this tool is 200 - 500 rubles, the working size of the loop is 30 - 120 mm.

A budget option (the issue price is 150 - 250 rubles) is a clamp with a textile loop in the kit, the design of which is identical to a chain puller for a head or a spanner key.

Belt

The cheapest is considered to be a belt tool for unscrewing the consumable parts of the internal combustion engine lubrication system. It usually has the following construction:

a cast handle with an outwardly bent pointed end having a notch on the outer side of the arcuate part;
a bracket of two plates fixed near the bent end;
one end of the belt bent into a loop is attached to the bracket;
the second one winds around the filter, a loop is made at the free end, which is brought out through the bracket;
free play is selected due to the hinged bracket;
the notch on the grip foot prevents slipping of the working buttonhole.

You can buy a belt clip for 300 - 500 rubles, the tool is suitable for diameters of 25 - 140 mm.

Sickle

A large-sized version of the universal adjustable wrench is called the Clamp oil filter remover. The design of the tool is extremely simple:

the handle is bent arcuate, on the outside of the arc has a notch, at the beginning of the rounding hole;
It is not necessary to choose the free movement of the puller, since it immediately snaps onto the filter housing to fit.

This tool is good for unscrewing heavily soiled, greasy oil filters, but only with normal access to this assembly. It costs 200 - 300 rubles, suitable for sizes 60 - 120 mm.

"Ticks"

It got the name of the pliers oil filter remover because of the similar shape of the working body. This tool is considered universal, but suitable for a limited number of filter sizes:

in the place of the hinged connection of the handles, an oval groove is cut by analogy with universal pliers for a step change in the arc of the jaws;
the inner surface is equipped with a notch;
handles have polymer or silicone tips.

The device is ideal for individual entrepreneurs who decided to start their own business, who opened a car service. There is no need to look for a place for storage, the most popular sizes are 85 - 115 mm and 60 - 90 mm at a price of 450 - 850 rubles.

Pliers with two levels of adjustment have been created for working in confined spaces. In addition to step-by-step adjustment of the diameter of the jaws, they have a hinge mechanism that allows you to change the plane of the handles relative to the working body by 90 degrees in both directions.

For large service stations servicing foreign cars, the modification of Pincers 53 - 118 mm, suitable for a wide range of ICE models of automotive vehicles, is more suitable.

Sliding Cup Clamp

By analogy with the Cup and Crab, a universal puller of this type can be turned with a head, open-end and spanner wrenches. It does not slip on the filters, even if oil is spilled on their surface. The design differs from all previously considered modifications:

the bowl is assembled from two parts that move relative to each other along the horizontal axis;
the linkage assembly is assembled from three plates, which has a hex nut in the upper part with a square hole in the center.

The principle of the tool is as follows:

the device is installed on the filter;
when transferring rotation from a key or head, the wings are displaced;
the edges of the parts from which the cup is assembled cut into the filter slots;
unscrewing.

The purchase budget is 500 - 900 rubles, the tool is suitable for filters with a diameter of 60 - 120 mm with any number of slots.

Homemade puller

After familiarizing yourself with the industrial options for a special tool, it is easier to understand how to make your own oil filter remover. To do this, you need to select a simple design of the device, and copy it for personal use. The main nuances are:

it will be more expensive to make Crab and Cups parts at home than buying a tool in a store;
usually used materials at hand, scrap metal cut, fasteners, used tow rope tape and consumable belts;
the device should be convenient to use, then you will unscrew the filter quickly;
there is no need to copy the entire linear series, because one filter size is used on a particular internal combustion engine.

The most popular homemade options are discussed below.

Chain

To build a chain oil filter remover on your own, you will need materials:

a double-row piece of chain, for example, a bicycle length slightly larger than the filter diameter (2 - 4 links plus);
hexagon 5 - 7 cm long in any size for a standard wrench.

The chain can be welded to the hexagon or first riveted into a loop, welded on a piece of rolled metal from the inside anywhere. The work will take 15 - 30 minutes, you will need a hammer and a welding machine.

In the absence of a piece of rolled metal, you can take a shank adapter for a cone drill. In this case, you will have to grind the top turnkey part.

A piece of tubing flattened at one end eliminates the need for welding. To do this, insert the edges of the chain into the flattened end of the tube, drill a hole to fix it inside, for example, with a nail or a screw through and through.

Belt

When using a belt loop, the do-it-yourself oil filter remover will turn out even faster:

a piece of belt, preferably with transverse slots, wraps around the filter with a smooth side;
the ends are passed through a suitable size spanner hole;
when rotating, the belt slots prevent it from slipping into the key eyelet.

The material has sufficient roughness and elasticity to transmit torque without tearing or twisting.

If you make a slot in the socket head, put a similar piece of belt in it, you get a more convenient device for working in confined spaces.

Tape

In the garage, unscrewing the filtering oil consumable element can be done with a piece of used towing cable made of nylon tape. In principle, the handles of bags and backpacks are suitable, which allows you not to invest additional funds in repairs.

The characteristics of the tape are slightly inferior to the belts, but they have a similar shape, so it is logical that all keys are made using the same technologies. The most popular end puller:

a groove is cut in the hexagon, bolt, socket head;
2 through holes are drilled for screws;
the edges of the tape are laid, fixed with screws or rivets.

There is already a groove in the adapter for a cone drill, but in hardened metal it is difficult to drill holes for fixing the belt with screws, so you can sew a ring from this material, pass one edge of it through the hole, insert an impromptu retainer from a nail or wire on the other side.

The principle of operation of the key will not change from this, just at the moment of choosing the free stroke, this fixing element must be held until the tape is fully tensioned.

Clamping

This homemade gadget is copied from the Cup. However, at home, it is difficult to make slots on the inner side of the pipe, so the tool is fixed to the filter body with a clamping screw. The upper arcuate plate is welded to the tubular spool to secure the hex head / wrench nut.

Due to the simple design of the key, a drawing is not required, it is enough to cut off a piece of pipe with an inner diameter slightly larger than the filter, about 5 cm long.With the top position of the nut, you can use a homemade puller, even in a confined space.

Puller key

More complicated in technical implementation, a wrench for removing the oil filter is made from a bar and a pipe coil:

the coil is cut through;
kerf width is 3 mm minimum;
rods with a diameter of 12 mm and 15 cm long are welded near the cut.

This homemade key is analogous to Ticks or Sickle. It is less convenient in confined spaces in comparison with the end version of the puller. Long handles interfere with rotation near units under the hood of the machine.

In conclusion, a good tip: the puller is used exclusively for unscrewing the filter. There is no need to tighten the consumable with it after changing the oil, so I use this tool in exceptional cases, nevertheless, it pays off already in the first year of car operation.

Thus, it is better to buy or make a device for unscrewing the oil filter in advance, without waiting for the replacement of the oil / filter set according to the ICE service schedule.

If you have any questions - leave them in the comments below the article. We or our visitors will be happy to answer them.

Hello dear friends! Today we will make a very simple and effective device that will certainly come in handy for people who are engaged in auto repair, plumbing, carpentry, etc. Such a little thing may well be useful in ordinary household life.

This simple contraption is a universal wrench that can unscrew anything. The wrench works well on all nut and bolt diameters and has excellent adhesion to any smooth surface such as a water pipe.
Compared to the universal gas wrench, this design has certain advantages. The gas wrench has only two engagement planes, which in turn can deform the unscrewed part under strong pressure. Our tool has a "soft" grip due to contact over the entire plane of the part to be unscrewed.
Test on a wooden log. On the left is our universal key, and on the right is our gas.

Also, due to the specificity of its design, this key is endowed with the ability to work as a universal key with a "ratchet" mechanism: preventing the parts from scrolling in the desired direction and easily being thrown to the beginning in the opposite position.

To make such a universal key, you need only two details:

- Square metal profile 25x25, 300 mm long.
- Motorcycle chain 500 mm long.

Assembling the master key

The assembly is incredibly simple and will take you no more than 5 minutes along with the preparation.
All you need to do is weld one end of the chain to the metal profile. Welding is best done on both sides of the chain.
This completes the assembly. The master key is ready to use.

Using a generic key

We skip the second end of the chain into the center of the profile and you get such a ring that just needs to be put on the part that you want to turn off.

In this tool, the chain is taken on a break and the greater the lever force, the stronger the chain grip force will be.
The key perfectly hooks on both round and faceted objects. For him, it doesn't make much difference whether it's a nut or a pipe.

Testing

Key test on a round pipe:

Test key on a hex nut:

The result is excellent in all cases. High engagement. Cranking nothing.
Also, this miracle turns off plastic and polypropylene pipes perfectly, without significant deformations, which is so important when working with soft plastic.

This useful key won't take up much space in your car, garage or home. But it may definitely come in handy at the most necessary moment.
So friends, feel free to make yourself your master key. Be sure to watch the video of making and testing the master key.

Most car enthusiasts believe that an oil filter remover is a useless tool that, if anyone should have it, only car service workers. Drivers who have already encountered the problem when the filter cannot be manually unscrewed when changing the engine oil on their own have already acquired a suitable puller. It is not so easy to choose this tool: there are many modifications on the market, but not all of them will be suitable for servicing a particular car model.

Types of industrial pullers

Depending on the design features and dimensions of the filter, pullers of one type or another are used to unscrew it. Their body or base is usually made of steel and protected by a matt or silver chrome finish. A number of products, if provided by the design, have plastic pads on the handles, which greatly simplifies the work with such a tool.

Almost all pullers allow you to unscrew both oil cleaners (hereinafter referred to as cleaners) and oil cups - filter casings with a replaceable insert. All pullers can be primarily divided into universal and designed for unscrewing filters of only one diameter or type.

Among the first, the following main types are distinguished:

crab;
belt;
chain;
tape;
sickle and tick-shaped;
with 2 adjustable arms.

Their versatility is relative - not every filter can be unscrewed with them. Firstly, because they are designed for a certain range of diameters of cleaners, and in some pullers it is wide enough, while in others it is not very, and secondly, because of their own design features and dimensions. After all, the location, as well as the availability of the filter on different cars, is different, and therefore it will be easy and simple to work with any tool in one engine compartment, and in the other, it may not be possible at all.

Only one type of tools is referred to as narrow-profile ones - oil filter removers "cup". They got this name for their appearance, reminiscent of the kitchen appliance of the same name.

Design and method of application of the "cup" puller

This type of puller is produced for filters of all sizes, but each individual cleaner is only of one diameter. Therefore, when buying a cup, you need to be especially careful. This key should ideally match the filters installed on the vehicle's engine. Even a difference of a few millimeters will turn the cup into a useless accessory.

The owners of garages immediately purchase whole sets of these pullers, including up to 30 keys for filters of various diameters. These kits are supplied with a case in which the cups are conveniently arranged according to the size numbers.

Cup strippers have a square hole in their bottom for the tip of a socket wrench. Some manufacturers additionally make the "bottom" hexagonal - under the union tool. Many pullers, primarily their sets, are supplied with a tip for the "cup" hole, on which the key is put on, and some are supplied with all the necessary tools, including the cap and socket.

The "cup" remover is put on the ribbed top of the filter with a wide open part, on the inner circumference of which there are edges. They should be the same number and size as those on the purifier. Otherwise, the puller will not sit tightly, and it will be difficult or impossible to unscrew the filter. " Cup "is considered the most convenient tool. It is compact in itself and with it, as a rule, it is easier to "crawl" to the filter. Moreover, a properly selected "cup" never slips relative to the circumference of the filter housing, which sometimes happens with some other types of pullers.

Details about the universal "crab"

The "crab" remover consists of two plates, which are the body, and 3 grips installed between them. On the working surface of the paws, there are notches that prevent them from slipping along the filter surface. The grippers are controlled by means of a clamping mechanism located in the middle of the crab body and between the pivot arms.

The mechanism itself, like the puller as a whole, is driven by a special supplied key - this is one of the design varieties - either with a socket or a union tool, for which a corresponding tip is provided, coming out of the case. The scheme of working with the "crab" is identical to the process of unscrewing the filter with a "cup" remover. You must first attach it to the end of the cleaner. It is in this part of the work that the "crab" is fundamentally different from the cup, which makes it universal. In the initial position, its legs are spread apart and are able to cover the filter of the maximum diameter allowed for its design.

After placing the jaws on the smaller cleaner, the clamping mechanism is activated. In this case, the "crab" will be able to capture the filter, the diameter of which corresponds to the minimum allowable for the design of the puller. After the paws have gripped the cleaner, you must continue to work with the wrench put on the clamping mechanism drive. This will unscrew the filter. Moreover, the stronger the applied force, the more reliable the grip of the "crab" paws will be - slippage is excluded.

Depending on the crab model, it can be used to remove and install filters with a diameter of 60–125 mm. This puller, like the cup, is very good at working in tight and confined spaces.

What do you need to know about the rest of the pullers?

The chain puller of the oil filter, depending on the design, allows you to unscrew and tighten filters with diameters ranging from 60–140 mm. It is a handle and a chain attached to it at one end, which serves as an adjustable grip. Most pullers are equipped with a single chain, but there are also models with a double chain. The second end of the grip, depending on the design, can be free or passed through a special groove located in the handle and having a lock.

At the first execution of the puller, before unscrewing the filter, the chain is tightly wound on its body, almost to the end. The remaining section of the grip is hooked to the hook on the handle. After that, the puller rests against the filter and acts like a lever. The second version of the tool already has a loop from the chain, which has adjustable dimensions and is immediately thrown onto the filter. After that, pulling the end of the grip passed through the groove, tighten the loop and press on the tool handle in the desired direction. In this case, the groove retainer reliably holds the chain, not allowing it to loosen its grip.

Belt pullers have a working diameter range of 25–160 mm. A special belt is installed in them to grip the filter, forming a loop. It can be fixed at both ends in a square steel bar. A belt is wound around it after the loop is thrown over the filter. Then a suitable key is put on the rod and the cleaner is unscrewed. Another type of puller is similar in design and use to the second type of chain tool.

The operating range of the belt filters is one of the narrowest - the difference between the minimum and maximum allowable filter diameters can reach only 30 mm. They use a tape made of steel or plastic, fixed at both ends on the handle and forming a loop, in which in some designs the size can be slightly adjusted. After throwing on the grip, force is applied to the handle and act as a lever. The tightness of the filter coverage is achieved in some designs with a screw on the handle, and in others - due to natural tension when unscrewing. Most of the pullers of this type often fail to cope with too tightly tightened filters.

Crescent and pincer tools have 2 working curved jaws with notches and 1 or 2 handles. Their working range of gripping is also small, in some designs it is adjustable. They work with these pullers as with ordinary pliers - they grip the filter, squeeze and turn it off.

The puller with 2 adjustable jaws consists of a thick narrow base plate, a screw and paws with notches on the working part. The ends of the grippers with a thread are moved in the longitudinal slots of the base and fixed in the desired position with a nut. When tightening the screw passing along the thread of the hole in the center of the plate, after it is firmly pressed against the filter, the latter is unscrewed.

DIY belt puller - it couldn't be easier

To make this key with your own hands, you will need a steel hexagon. Its standard size can be 19 or 17 - under the appropriate key, as it is more convenient for anyone. We cut off a workpiece with a length of about 150 mm or another size from the hexagon rod. This must be determined by trying on in the engine compartment of your own car, so that it is as convenient as possible to unscrew the filter with the made puller.

Then, along the hexagon in the middle, we make a cut with a grinder with a length of 55-60 mm and a width of 5-6 mm, which should go through opposite angles of the section and parallel to the side faces of the bar. After that, we process the workpiece on emery - remove sharp edges and burrs. Taking an old but undamaged car seat belt, cut off a piece of it to the desired length, depending on the diameter of the installed filter. The longer the section of the belt, the more versatile the puller will be, but it will also become less convenient to work with it when unscrewing small cleaners. In general, a piece of 500–550 mm is sufficient.

We insert the belt into the slot of the workpiece, align and center in it. Then, on the hexagon opposite the belt, we make markings at equal distances from each other for drilling 3 holes. We remove the belt from the cut. We drill through holes with a diameter of 5.5 mm. After that, on one side, we expand the holes to 6.5 mm. We carry out reaming only up to the slot. In holes with a diameter of 5.5 mm, use a tap to cut an M6 thread.

We melt both ends at the belt with a lighter so that they do not bloom, and then we put them together and thread the hexagonal blank into the cut opposite the holes. It turned out to be a loop. The ends of the strap opposite to it should protrude about 10 mm from the slot. We take a nail, or better a steel rod 6 mm in diameter, heat it well and, pushing alternately through 3 openings of the hexagon, burn the holes in the tape with it. It is necessary to burn through, and not to perforate, so that the belt in these places does not delaminate and does not fluff.

Carefully, so as not to displace the loop, we put the future puller on the anvil and use a hammer to clamp the belt in the slots. Then we screw 3 bolts into the holes of the hexagon. They must be M6 threaded. The self-assembled oil filter belt puller is ready to use. The procedure for working with such a key is as follows. We put the loop on the filter, and then we begin to wind the belt around the hexagon. To unscrew, this should be done counterclockwise. When the belt is completely wound, you need to take a key (17 or 19), put it on the hexagon and unscrew the filter.

If the belt option has not justified itself, we make a chain

To make a chain puller with your own hands, you will need a piece of a half-inch or one-inch used pipe with non-corroded, undamaged walls and threads at one end. The length of the piece must be at least the height of the filter. We select a suitable plug for the pipe so that it can be screwed onto its thread. You will also need a bicycle chain.

We drill a hole with a diameter of 9 mm in the center of the plug. With the help of a triangular file, we give it a square shape with our own hands. We carry out the processing until the dimensions of the hole fit under the ratchet wrench, or rather, under its end stop. The latter should fit into the resulting plug opening quite tightly, almost without backlash. We screw the plug onto the end of the pipe and tighten it very tightly. To prevent it from unscrewing when using a puller, it is recommended to grab it to the pipe by welding.

As a last resort, you can try to crush the metal at the end of the thread using a blunt chisel and hammer, but only carefully so as not to deform the pipe. We make markings on the pipe for drilling holes for the chain. To securely grip the filter, 2 pieces of it are sufficient, installed on the stripper opposite the opposite ends of the cleaner. But you can also make a third hole, between the 2 extreme ones, under another 1 chain. In this case, the puller will become more versatile, as it will allow you to unscrew filters with different heights.

Having passed a chain through one of the drilled holes in the pipe, we put it around the filter with a loop, trying on how long the segments will be needed. We measure out enough so that the stripper in the unfolded state can be freely put on the cleaner. You can even make a certain margin of the chain along the length for filters, the diameter of which is larger than that installed on the car. But it must be borne in mind that it will be less convenient to work with such a puller. Along the measured length, we disassemble the chain into separate fragments - we squeeze out the pins and disconnect the links in this place.

Having passed the obtained segments through the holes in the pipe, we make loops from them - we connect the links of the ends and press the pins. To unscrew the filter, we put the puller hinges on it and, if necessary, when the chains are too long, manually turn the pipe counterclockwise, thereby taking out the slack. Then we insert the ratchet key into the plug and already with its help we begin to dismantle the cleaner.

In order for its transmission to serve for a long time and not create problems, it is worth periodically cleaning and lubricating the chain, as well as changing it approximately every 10-15 thousand kilometers. Replacing a chain on a motorcycle is considered a rather difficult operation, and many experts recommend contacting a specialized workshop with such a problem. However, you can change the chain yourself, saving you a lot of money. This kind of work does not require any special technical skills, but there are many nuances in it. By observing the recommendations given in the article, you can achieve the reliability and durability of your motorcycle's transmission.

Instruments

To work with a chain, you will need a fairly extensive list of tools. The most important means of labor in this case will be a special chain riveter - such devices are produced by many companies, so it will be relatively easy to find it. The cost of the tool varies between 1000-5000 rubles, depending on the manufacturer and the steel grade used. From some experienced craftsmen, one has to hear that the riveter is successfully replaced with a hammer, chisel and core. This point of view is completely erroneous - it will not be possible to achieve a reliable connection with their help, and, most likely, it will soon break.

In addition, replacing the sprockets and chain will require the following tools:

Torque wrench with comfortable grip;
A set of keys and heads;
Compact grinder with a diamond disc for metal;
Grease, cleaner and chain cleaner.

It is better not to neglect the selection of high-quality tools, since it will be very unpleasant if the key breaks in the hands in the process of work and the motorcycle remains half disassembled. Remember that you will have to change the chain regularly, so it is worth buying a quality kit once and then using it for several years.

Dismantling

First you need to remove the chain cover and unscrew all the bolts holding the drive sprocket cover. After removing the plastic covers, screw all fasteners to their original places to prevent them from being lost. There is always a considerable amount of dirt under the star cover - it is better to wash it using a special spray. Then rinse the assembly with water and gently wipe off the remaining liquid with a non-abrasive cloth.

If there is a change of stars on the agenda, you need to loosen their fasteners by unscrewing the corresponding bolts. You will need help here, as access to the rear wheel sprocket bolts is usually blocked by the swingarm and the motorcycle has to be moved back and forth. Now all that remains is to loosen the rear axle nut - however, no fasteners need to be completely removed yet! The motorcycle is installed on the center stand or trolley, after which it is necessary to finally unscrew the rear axle nut and remove the wheel. After completing this operation, begin to remove the stars by completely unscrewing the bolts that fix them.

To greatly facilitate the procedure for installing a new chain, it is worth cutting the existing transmission mechanism. Some motorcycle models have a special device called a chain breaker - just lower it on the chain and squeeze it to knock the pin out of it. If it is not present, the chain can be riveted with the punch included in the riveting kit. However, experienced mechanics say that such a tool breaks too easily, and it is advised to first cut down the pin heads with a grinder. After that, breaking the link will be very easy - if you do not have all of the above tools, the chain can be sawed with a hacksaw, although this work will take a lot of time.

If you are wondering how to change a chain using a special tool, then you should know what. A bushing is installed in the riveter's clamping mechanism for cutting the chain, after which it is aligned with the pin with the sawed head. The clamping bolt is tightened with a pre-prepared torque wrench with a force of 10-12 Nm. It remains only to insert the punch and screw it in until the pin falls out and the chain breaks.

Installation

If you are going to change the sprockets, you can do without cutting the chain, since you still have to install the new gear mechanism manually. However, if they are preserved, this operation can significantly reduce the complexity of the work. If you have purchased a new chain from a similar manufacturer, you just need to connect it to the old one to achieve the desired result. Otherwise, you can use strong synthetic thread or wire. The resulting long chain must be pulled over the stars, gradually turning them.

To understand how to replace the chain in this way, you need to wait until the old transmission part will not touch the stars. Be sure to generously grease the splines that engage with grease. Now you can remove the old chain and start installing the new one. Put the leading star in its place and attach the mount. The next step will be riveting the chain, which is considered the most critical process in the entire replacement procedure.

If you are wondering how to rivet a chain with a hammer and chisel, you can read the recommendations below and do it by hand - however, the probability of breakage of the transmission mechanism will be very high. Therefore, it is better to take a special riveter that limits the movement of the splines - this will allow you to keep the part seals intact. Lubricate the pins abundantly with a special lubricant for the chain, after which we put on oil seals and lubricate them again. Now you need to thread them into the rollers, install one more oil seals, re-lubricate and fix the lock cover on top. We install this link in the riveter in such a way that the pins fall into a special groove - it remains only to tighten the clamping bolt until they rest against its base.

Now you need to install a special attachment for riveting the pins into the tool. Press it against the surface of the chain - it is almost impossible to miss, since the tool has a special recess that makes aiming easier. Using a torque wrench, tighten the hold-down bolt until the end of free play. Depending on the manufacturer of the chain, this value can be in the range of 15-20 Nm, however, you should be guided by a sharp increase in the required torque to turn the bolt. Do not try to overtighten the bolt, as in this case the lock will lose its mobility, which will lead to accelerated wear of the transmission.

All that remains is to install the chainring and attach the mount. Now you need to install the wheel in the reverse order, but also do not tighten its axle. Check that all parts are in place and that you have not lost any fasteners.

The ending

The next step will be to adjust the chain - for normal, the sagging of the transmission is considered to be 25-35 mm. Depending on what kind of mechanism is used on your motorcycle, you may need to move the axle along a special slot, controlling it with the adjusting bolts, or turn the eccentric device. After setting the desired level of slack, tighten the rear axle nuts and make sure the rear wheel is fully locked.

Now start to tighten all fasteners to the desired moment using the torque wrench - all values can be found in the motorcycle manual. Start from the rear sprocket, tightening its bolts crosswise to avoid damage to the threads, fix the front sprocket and check that the chain rotates without significant slack in a certain area. Before using the motorcycle, the gear mechanism will need to be lubricated using a special spray.

If you purchased the wrong chain model and need to know how to shorten it, you should use the recommendations above. Using a punch, break the mechanism and remove the required number of links from it. After that, carefully lubricate all components and install the splines, not forgetting about the oil seals and rollers of the friction pairs. However, such an operation should be performed only as a last resort - before buying a chain, you need to clarify whether it is suitable for a particular motorcycle model.

Hard work

Changing the chain is not particularly easy, although this operation does not require special technical knowledge. The problem lies in the presence of a huge number of nuances - the transmission mechanism can be overtightened, crushed, or simply incorrectly mounted. Therefore, you should check all the recommendations and use only a quality tool. If you do not feel confident that you can perform all the procedures correctly, it is better to entrust the replacement of the chain to specialists. The motorcycle service station will help you to make repairs within a minimum time, as well as give a guarantee of the reliability of the transmission.

Design features

Special jaws and an adjustable flexible chain provide the necessary fixation of the pipes.

Due to the absence of any fixed elements in the construction of the key, it is possible to carry out work in a limited space.

It's easy to work with a chain wrench, but there are a few simple rules to keep in mind:

thoroughly clean the teeth from debris trapped in them before and after work;
it is strictly forbidden to use any cushioning materials between the pipe and the chain;
do not build up the wrench lever with additional pipe cuts. This could break the handle.

Chain Key Specifications

In the operation of a chain key, the following main parameters are distinguished:

the possibility of using the tool in places with difficult access;
for light loads, the key is equipped with a one-piece forged alloy steel handle and a special sponge;
the key works with any metal pipes of various diameters;
under heavy loads, some chain wrench models have variable (double) jaws of the same alloy steel. Such a key is considered indispensable when there is a need for a sufficiently tight coupling of the key to the pipe. In order to increase the amount of force applied, an extension arm can be additionally used. Depending on the nature of the work, the chain wrench can be modified by placing replaceable jaws in the structure.

Today, both classic and lightweight key models are produced. Standard models are often heavier than lightweight keys.

The most well-known brands that are in demand among customers are the chain keys RIDGID, REED, SPARTA and STAYER.

The choice of such a tool is quite wide, so you should definitely weigh all the pros and cons before settling on any particular manufacturer.

Dear visitors of the site “ Labuda blog»From the presented material you will learn how to make your own universal wrench from a bicycle chain, a bolt and three nuts with your own hands. Presented step-by-step photos of the key assembly and so off we go ..

Many of you have probably faced such a problem .. when the edges on the unscrewed nut or bolt are a little knocked down and a regular wrench just scrolls without performing its function. This can be solved with the help of a homemade chain wrench working in compression, that is, the stronger the handle of the key, the stronger the chain will clamp and thereby unscrew any nut or bolt, even the most eaten one.

To make a universal wrench, you need a piece of bike chain, two nuts and a bolt. We wrap the nuts on the bolt and weld a section of the chain to them in such a way that a grip is obtained and welded to the other side of the nuts. Next, we put the chain on that nut or bolt that needs to be unscrewed and tighten the bolt, thereby tensioning the chain, everything can be unscrewed)

Materials (edit)